La Residence
This larger than life family owned small luxury hotel within a farm property in the gourmet village of Franschoek in South Africa’s Winelands was a delight. Someone once told me,
Buitenverwachting Restaurant
Although we had visited Constantia, an upscale Cape Town suburb, a number of times over the years we first heard about Buitenverwachting by chance while dining with a local foodie who mentioned that the restaurant had recently been refurbished. Lady luck was with us: we still had time to visit the restaurant before leaving Cape Town on our way to the Garden Route and the restaurant was able to accommodate us. It turned out Buitenverwachting, meaning “beyond expectation,” exceeded our expectations.
Birkenhead House
Named after the Royal Navy vessel HMS Birkenhead, the navy’s largest iron ship in 1852 which carried one hundred and thirty crew members and four hundred and eighty seven soldiers, Birkenhead House stood guard over Walker Bay in the tiny town of Hermanus as if waiting for survivors. We arrived there at midday following a pleasant drive from its sister property La Residence in nearby Franschoek through a mountain pass and along the green rolling hills of South Africa’s wine country. The luxurious boutique hotel was in a residential area of the village known domestically for its outstanding sightings of southern right whales.
Asara Wine Estate and Hotel
It was 10:30 on a Sunday night when we first arrived at Asara in the hotel’s VIP vehicle, a new smelling Bentley. Even in my exhausted state (we had been traveling for more than 34 hours) I appreciated the beauty of the car and silently thanked the person who sent such an automotive jewel to collect us at the Cape Town airport. As we arrived at the property all I could think of was a comfortable bed. In spite of my tiredness I noticed the pretty light lined drive leading to the hotel’s main entrance and made a mental note to explore the property the next day.
Sedona
Named for the wife of T.C. Schnebly, the area, at an elevation of 4,500 feet, is best known for its famous red rocks and vortexes or energy centers which appeal to spiritually oriented people many of whom have made the town their part time home. Having visited Sedona in the heat of summer’s low season it’s hard to imagine the town of 14,000 and one main street with four million visitors a year said to pass by the area.
Sedona Rouge Hotel and Spa
Sedona Rouge was on our left on the road to into town on Arizona State Route 89A as we arrived by car from the Phoenix Airport following a day of travel from the east coast. Within minutes we were settling into the air conditioned comfort of our third floor hotel room. Right away we liked the easy to reach parking lot, comfortable double queen beds, flat screen television, electric fireplace and complimentary WiFi connectivity.
Northern Light Balloon Expeditions
The Northern Light Ballon Expeditions van was parked in front of our hotel entrance at 5:25 a.m. when we arrived five minutes before the scheduled 5:30 a.m. pick up time. Blair Preston, a friendly pilot with 21 years of experience, introduced himself and welcomed us aboard. We were the last two passengers on the route so we drove directly to Forest Road 9851B off of Lower Red Rock Loop road, the place from which our balloon with six passengers and two other balloons would launch for our dawn flight.
L’Auberge de Sedona
A side street off the main road in the picturesque town of Sedona in Arizona led us to this luxury oriented small hotel set along the banks of the well known Oak Creek. Although the property was having major renovations during our late summer visit it was there that we enjoyed the highest level of service, luxury and gourmet dining in the Sedona area.
Savannah
Savannah is the quintessential Southern city, a world of gracious colonial mansions and verdant parks shaded by centuries-old live oaks dripping with Spanish moss. Established in 1733 on a bluff overlooking the Savannah River as the first city in Georgia, Savannah was one of the earliest planned cities in colonial America. Its creator, British General James Oglethorpe, a social reformer and visionary as well as military leader, conceived a layout of wide streets anchored by four public squares. The concept anticipated the growth of the city and expansion of the grid. More squares were added until the mid-19 th century. In 1851, the 30-acre Forsyth Park, the largest in the city, was the last addition to Savannah’s exuberant green spaces. Today, 21 squares remain, bordered by stately colonial homes. Together, they form the two-and-a-half square mile Savannah Historic Landmark District. One of the largest urban historic districts the country, it essentially represents the city limits at the time of the American Civil War.
The Waldburg
Ideally located across from Forsyth Park, Savannah’s own Central Park, The Waldburg was a lovely Queen Anne home meticulously restored to its Victorian charm. The cornflower blue clapboard exterior was enhanced with gleaming white trim. Coral accents drew the eye to the deep cornice and ornate brackets supporting the roof overhang. The large bay windows of the façade were topped by a polygonal attic cupola. Sitting on a small corner lot at the edge of the Historic District, the $1 million property was surrounded by lush, artfully landscaped borders contained within a lacy low wrought iron fence. Under an arch of gently undulating palms, a few moss-cushioned brick steps led to the entrance porch and solid oak front door. It was a house that instantly gave me a sense of homecoming.
Tuscany, Italy
Tuscany is famous the world over for its rich history, its artistic status as the cradle of the Renaissance, its magnificent churches and palazzos filled with stunning art and its picturesque countryside of rolling hills dotted with sun-baked medieval villages. All have contributed to making this 8,880 square mile (23,000 square kilometer) triangle of land, barely the size of New Hampshire, one of travelers’ favorite places to visit in Italy, a country that is itself one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world. While Tuscany’s regional capital, Florence, is said to lure close to ten million visitors a year, it is but one of six United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) World Heritage Sites in the region. The remaining five, also vastly popular destinations, are the historical centers of Siena, San Gimignano and Pienza as well as the square of the Cathedral of Pisa and the Val d’Orcia, a remote valley south of Siena.
Le Capanne at Camporsevoli
Le Capanne was a short two-hour drive from Florence, and a world away. The magic began to unfold with the last mile of our journey, as we started up the narrow, intermittently paved country road to Camporsevoli. It meandered steeply upward, each turn revealing more spectacular views of the valley below, a rolling landscape of vineyards and olive groves punctuated by centuries-old farmhouses. Soon a discrete wooden sign announced Le Capanne; an unassuming name ( capanne is Italian for shacks) for this superb $2.5 million fieldstone villa perched on five acres (two hectares) of beautifully landscaped grounds. It turned out to be merely an allusion to the humble origins of the villa. Le Capanne was for centuries one of the many farmsteads on the 500-acre (200 hectare) hillside Camporsevoli Estate. It was only recently restored into a five-bedroom rustic beauty with an inviting country Tuscan décor and the latest comforts and conveniences, including satellite TV, WiFi and a large swimming pool. The housekeepers, Francisco and Maria, were on hand to welcome us and ensure we were happily settled in.
Sun Palace Couples-only Resort
We spent a relaxing week at the Sun Palace Couples-only Resort, an all inclusive resort where pampering was the order of the day. This resort is located only 10 minutes from Cancun Airport near the end of the beach. This was fortunate as Hurricane Wilma, in 2005, wiped out most of the beach along this beautiful stretch of land. The beach in front of the Sun Palace and the Club Med Cancun were spared being washed out as they are located in the arch of the cove. We were met at the airport by the hotel limousine, which we requested when we made our hotel reservation. From the moment we registered there was no waiting and we were greeted at the door with flowers and champagne. We were also offered a cool damp cloth to refresh ourselves from the heat of the day.
Ek Balam and Coba, Mexico
On our last trip to Mexico, we decided to expand our travels and enjoy not only the beach, comfortable hotel and fabulous food but also some of the lesser known architectural sites located in the Yucatan Peninsula. Mayan culture is all pervasive in this region. In the local villages, many villagers still dress in traditional clothing: embroidered blouses and colorful woven skirts. Dating back as far as 3,000 years, the flat countryside has been dotted with Mayan ruins that are not necessarily visible to the naked eye. Most are covered by jungle vegetation and it was only recently that excavations began to uncover some of these architectural wonders. Coba and Ek Balam are two of the locations that are still relatively unknown. When we travel, we always enjoy experiencing unusual, or less well frequented, places and so we were pleasantly surprised that there were so few people when we visited these two sites.
Bareiss Restaurant
Arriving at the Bareiss Restaurant at the tail end of a two-week visit of Southwestern Germany where we had been repeatedly surprised with the quality and refinement of the restaurants, we had high expectations of this establishment. We were delighted to find the restaurant met and surpassed them with room to spare.
Arriving at the Bareiss Restaurant at the tail end of a two-week visit of Southwestern Germany where we had been repeatedly surprised with the quality and refinement of the restaurants, we had high expectations of this establishment. We were delighted to find the restaurant met and surpassed them with room to spare.
We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to the small restaurant tucked discretely within the outstanding Bareiss complex.
Hotel Bareiss
We much enjoyed our brief stay at the Hotel Bareiss, a family owned and managed resort with an emphasis on quality and being one of the best resort properties in Europe. From our arrival on a quiet late winter day we discovered an exceptional property.
Gourmetrestaurant Tschifflik
Named Tschifflik, meaning small palace in Turkish, for the former property built on the grounds by the Polish king who had it constructed it, this small restaurant was the most sophisticated of several attractive places to entertain the palate at the Romantik Hotel Landschloss Fasanerie. Everywhere we ate during our two-night stay at this woodside hotel was a delight. From the breakfast buffet to the hotels’ Mediterranean (Restaurant Orangerie) and regional (Restaurant Landhaus) restaurants every meal was a success.
Romantik Hotel Sackmann GmbH
A two and a half hour drive from Meersburg found us at the reception desk of the Hotel Sackmann. A friendly young lady responded kindly to my greeting. When I asked in my broken German if she spoke English she smiled and helped us complete the check in process in English. During our self drive German trip and while at the Hotel Sackmann we encountered that attitude many times. It made us feel welcome.
Romantik Hotel Residenz am See
After driving for several hours through rain and some snow covered roads hoping to find sunny shores, we arrived at the Residenz am See, a small family owned and run hotel facing Lake Constance. It was a gray and rainy Friday afternoon and our spirits drooped when we discovered the sunshine we had hoped would arrive was absent. During our stay we caught brief glimpses of blue skies and the sun and thanks to our pleasant accommodations and welcoming staff made the best of the winter weather. As part of our check in process two of the hotel staff explained our options, answered questions and accompanied us to our penthouse suite.
Passione Rossa Restaurant
Passione Rossa, a small family owned restaurant set in a former potato storage shed within the Romantik Hotel BollAnt’s im Park near Frankfurt, was a gourmet surprise. The first hint of the pleasant and tasty meal that awaited us was the friendly welcome we received on our arrival at the restaurant on a quiet winter Sunday.
The refined and delicate dishes we were served contrasted with the old farm setting.
Eagle Creek Hovercraft 25
With airlines issuing ever more restrictive luggage regulations in recent years, I had gradually adopted a rolling duffle bag as my checked baggage for long trips; but I yearned for the stable, tidily organized suitcases of earlier times. Until the recent demise of my latest duffle led me to consider the Eagle Creek Hovercraft 25. Its firm, heavy gauge Cordura nylon shell, coupled with the packing convenience of a hard-sided suitcase and the reduced weight of a duffle made it especially attractive. The broad wheelbase, sturdy knurled wheels (four inches or ten centimeters in diameter) and adjustable height telescopic top handle made it a breeze to steer.
The base also featured a long front stabilizing bar to keep the case upright even when it was heavily loaded. This efficient stabilizer doubled as a grab-bar, which in addition to the large padded top and side handles facilitated retrieval from the most chaotic airport luggage carousel. The front flap of the suitcase had two external high-capacity front pockets with three-sided U-shaped zippers for easy access. The exterior of the Hovercraft 25 was designed to avoid handling damage. It included thoughtful details such as a streamlined shape with no sharp angles or visible seams, deep wheel wells and a rear kick-plate that provided extra protection to the base of the suitcase.
Casala Das Restaurant
A young and enthusiastic chef whose love for and ability with fish and seafood were evident made this restaurant stand out. Our romantic window side table faced Lake Constance, allowing us a sunset view of the lake and, in the distance, the lights of nearby towns across the lake in Switzerland. A single white rose in full bloom and a tall white candle were the sole adornments on our round table, allowing us to focus our attention on the parade of pretty dishes and handsome dinnerware the staff served us. Small touches like a moist towel to cleanse our hands before beginning the meal, a diversity of pre and post meal palate teasers and the staff’s enthusiastic attitude enhanced our dinner experience.
Spa BollAnt at BollAnt’s im Park Romantik Hotel and Vital Spa
Sandwiched between a hill and a river the Spa Bollant’s position made Feng Shui enthusiast happy, according to Nicole Prass-Anton, the spa manager. The understated reception belied the spa’s spacious facilities. Once inside, we discovered a variety of rooms, decorated oriental style, that filled the various floors of the modern building. Although it was located in a village at least an hour’s drive from a major city, the spa was sold out during our Monday afternoon visit in late winter.
Romantik Hotel BollAnt´s im Park
An hour long drive from the Frankfurt Airport led us down highway and country roads to the BollAnt´s im Park Romantik Hotel and Vital Spa on the edge of Bad Sobernheim. Between the few words of German we knew and the reception desk staff person’s English we were able to check in with relative ease. After a short wait in the adjacent bar while our room was readied (we arrived in the early afternoon) we settled into a centrally located comfortable room.
Auckland, New Zealand
Perched midway up New Zealand’s North Island on a narrow isthmus of rolling hills between two major bodies of water, Auckland is a city resolutely focused on the sea. On its eastern coast, the Hauraki Gulf leads to the South Pacific Ocean, while its western side overlooks the Tasman Sea. This privileged seaside location has fostered in Aucklanders a long-standing love affair with the sea.
Taillevent Restaurant, Paris, France
Since our last visit to this well known Parisian restaurant in the posh eighth arrondissement the property had been revamped and the meal service improved. We appreciated the warm and cordial service and tasty meal during our recent lunch there and were pleased with the changes. In the same way, the classic dishes and attentive service worked well with the subtle modern décor and historic setting, they had just enough
The redecorated interior was contemporary, in shades of brown and gray, contrasting with the historic building.
Restaurant Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée
Once again lunch at Restaurant Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée at the prestigious Plaza Athénée Hotel in Paris was outstanding. Although the last time we were there the food was excellent this time it was even better. The popular restaurant named for the famous French chef remains in the top tier of gourmet dining. An elegant dining room, sophisticated ambiance, very good service, and marvelous contemporary French food allowed to enjoy a noteworthy experience.
Les Ambassadeurs
Les Ambassadeurs at the Hotel de Crillon is ideally situated in a prime spot on the famed Place de la Concorde. Its central location makes it convenient as much for first time visitors to the City of Lights as for city dwellers. Although the restaurant’s location is appealing it was the food that drew us back to revisit the hotel restaurant. Once inside the pretty dining room we were in a gourmet cocoon. Tables were spaced conveniently to allow private conversations and the ambiance was serious and subdued with many of us concentrating on our multiple course meals.
Le Cinq Restaurant, Paris, France
In July 2008 Chef Eric Briffard, formerly at Les Elysees du Vernet and before that at the Plaza Athenée, took over the kitchens of Le Cinq as Chef des Cuisines. We had sampled and liked his cooking on several occasions when he was at Les Elysees du Vernet and were eager to see what changes he had made at the well known Parisian restaurant.
We recently had lunch at Le Cinq and reacquainted ourselves with this talented chef’s style and the famous restaurant. Although the dust of a new head chef was still settling in part, the dishes themselves were artfully prepared and delicious. We distinctly remembered his gift with seafood and were pleased to rediscover his marvelous dishes at the new venue. The whole meal evoked the ocean with its flavors and aromas. Chef Briffard’s skills were very much in evidence. And, as in the past, we enjoyed dining in the handsome dining room. Sommelier Thierry Hamon’s wine pairing enhanced our meal, bringing out the subtle seafood taste without ever overwhelming the dishes.
Restaurant Guy Savoy
From the outside this small restaurant on a quiet Paris street revealed little of the gourmet treasures and extraordinary service hidden inside. It was a brutally cold day when we last visited Guy Savoy’s main establishment. We arrived early and were waiting across the street for the restaurant to open when we observed other guests entering. We quickly followed them in to find welcoming staff just inside the doors at a reception desk. They whisked away our coats and guided us to a small dining area in the rear of the restaurant.
Le Jules Verne
The new Jules Verne, 125 meters above the Paris skyline in the city’s most famous tourist attraction, was delightfully romantic. We were curious about the renovation and new chef and were looking forward especially to lunch. From beginning to end it was a pleasure. A private elevator whisked us directly from the base of the Eiffel Tower to the restaurant. Although the restaurant had seating for 120 guests, it was divided into several dining rooms. Our dining room was intimate and serene.
Villa Higgovale
Built on a hill in a leafy and upmarket suburb of Cape Town in front of stately Table Mountain, Villa Higgovale’s most precious feature was a magnificent view of Cape Town Bay and the sea. We arrived at the six-bedroom 30 million rand house on a gorgeous summer day, finding our way easily from the Waterfront area after plucking in the address into our GPS (global positioning system) device. An understated outer security gate revealed little of the pretty grounds or the property that lay behind it. Following down a steep and narrow drive we slowly discovered the lovingly maintained gardens, and parked in front of the main entrance to the two-story house.
Royal Malewane
This attractive luxury bush property favored by the rich and famous was lovingly maintained and well run. It was named Malewane for the ravine on which the property was built. We arrived a little wilted following a day of travel from Cape Town via Johannesburg. John Jackson, the property general manager and our gracious host, immediately showed us to our quarters, the Royal Malewane Suite, on one end of the property that would be our home for the following three nights. There we were greeted by a sea of welcoming smiles from the small group of staff members who would take turns looking after us during our stay.
The Roundhouse Restaurant
Set on 42 hectares of forest minutes away from the heart of the city what first impressed us about The Roundhouse Restaurant was its amazing view of Camps Bay and the 12 Apostles Mountains on the outskirts of Cape Town. From where we sat we could even see Table Mountain and its cable car. We felt like VIPs, dining under the shade of a tree just outside the restaurant entrance, basking in the summer breeze and our bird’s eye view of Camps Bay. From our table, we could almost see forever.
Rock House Villa
Rock House Villa is a vacation home to see and be seen in. The $4 million (36 million rand) beach house is in Camps Bay, Cape Town’s beach playground. Although there are a couple dozen homes in the Camps Bay beachfront neighborhood where Rock House Villa is situated, the house occupies a special location, jutting out among the beach rocks with prime ocean frontage and an outstanding side view of Camps Bay.
Pure
Pure was a joyful discovery. It was tucked away in a pretty and newly renovated hotel in Hout Bay, a small coastal town near Cape Town. While we had been intrigued by the name, it was the recommendation of a fellow foodie that drew us to discover Pure and visit the town overnight.
Porini Rhino Camp
Porini Rhino Camp was located within the 90,000 acre (365 square kilometer) Ol Pejeta Conservancy, on a verdant plateau between the foothills of the Aberdares Range and the stately snow-capped peak of Mount Kenya. Although the area was on the equator, the altitude (around 6,500 feet or 2,000 meters) made for a temperate climate with cool nights, and a landscape of wooded grassland reminiscent of alpine pastures. However, there was nothing alpine about the fauna; game viewing was some of the best East Africa had to offer both in density and variety. Within minutes of entering the conservancy, I had sighted a white rhino, followed in short order by a large journey of reticulated giraffes.
Mara Porini Camp
Porini is Swahili for “in the wilds.” Nowhere did I find a more vivid proof of it than at the Mara Porini Camp. The intimate luxury camp was nestled in a soaring grove of yellow-barked acacia, within the Ol Kinyei Conservancy, a private 8,500 acre (3,500 hectare) swath of the Serengeti-Masai Mara ecosystem set aside by the local Masai land-owners for the exclusive use of Mara Porini guests. This pristine wilderness of open savannah plains and rolling hills, riverine forest, permanent streams and spectacular views across the Masai Mara was home for the broad variety of species for which the park is famous, including resident big cats.
Porini Lion Camp
Porini Lion Camp far exceeded any promise its name may have implied! Lions? I had little doubt there’d be lions. The camp was located in the Olare Orok Conservancy, a 23,000 acre (9,000 hectare) private game reserve on the northwest boundary of the Masai Mara National Reserve, which is reputed for its lions. But even at my most optimistic, I hadn’t expected an entire pride of lions, 17 in all, to materialize in the savannah grass 10 minutes into my first game drive! They were rousing from their afternoon siesta, feigning nonchalance as they began to focus on an approaching herd of zebras. I was able to observe the team effort of their stalking process and the zebra’s ultimate narrow escape. We moved on, only to stop again instants later at the edge of a clearing were a breeding herd of elephants was feeding. I was privileged to observe a newborn elephant calf’s first unsteady steps, and its efforts to figure what to do with its unwieldy nasal appendage in its awkward attempt to suckle. A few feet away, its sturdier week-old cousin was trying to uproot a twig, before loosing interest and taking off, puppy-like, in hot pursuit of a bird. By sundown, without leaving the conservancy, we had also sighted buffalos and a leopard for four of the Big Five! We viewed the “fifth’” at close range early the next morning. Shortly after we crossed the boundary of the Masai Mara National Reserve we happened onto a pair of black rhinos engaged in their courtship ritual. But even this exciting sighting was soon overshadowed by a cheetah and her three young cubs enthusiastically tucking into their impala breakfast.
Nairobi Serena Hotel
Nairobi was the last stop on my recent Kenya itinerary. After two weeks in the glorious isolation of remote bush camps, I wanted to ease back into the modern world before boarding the long flight home. The Nairobi Serena Hotel proved to be the ideal retreat for my transition. Located at the edge of the city’s Central Park and surrounded by its own lush tropical gardens, the Nairobi Serena offered an oasis of serenity in the heart of Africa’s fourth largest, and one of its most vibrant, cities.
Kenya
Kenya is a land of contrasts; a mosaic of cultures developed through millennia of rich history, scattered throughout a 225,000 square mile area (582,650 square kilometer; roughly the size of Texas), with a population of 38 million representing over a dozen main tribal groups. Many have retained their ancestral traditions from the Swahili sailing their ancient dhows along the coastal waters of the Indian Ocean to the Masai still herding their cattle across the wide open spaces of the southwest of the country. The topography of the land is equally varied and offers some of the most stunning landscapes in Africa. The country sits astride the equator on the eastern coast of Africa. From a 333 mile (536 kilometer) coastline of tropical beaches melting into the Indian Ocean it rises toward the west to the mile-high plateau of Nairobi and central highlands culminating at the snow-capped peak of Mount Kenya, 17,058 feet (5,200 meters) above sea level. Further west, the land slopes down again toward Uganda, Lake Victoria and Tanzania to the south, to become arid red-dust plains and sun-baked savannah teaming with some of the most spectacular wildlife in the world.
The Greenhouse Restaurant at the Cellars
A sunny summer afternoon found us enjoying a marvelous lunch at the aptly named The Greenhouse Restaurant at The Cellars-Hohenort Hotel and Spa just outside of Cape Town. From our indoor table in a cozy corner, we could see through the glass walls to the lovingly maintained lush gardens and Table Mountain, and observe fellow guests enjoying their meals on the restaurant terrace.
Onewellness Dock House
During a recent visit to South Africa, my husband and I dedicated a couple of afternoons to spa pampering and relaxation in Cape Town. This helped us recover from the jet lag from the long international flights from the United States via Europe, and allowed us to spend quality time together. Our first stop was at Onewellness Dock House, a new facility and part of the Dock House Boutique Hotel, where we found secure parking.
Camp Jabulani
This little camp, part of the Relais and Chateaux group, will stand out in my memory for bringing us close up and personal with an elephant herd like no other we had encountered before. It was named for Jabulani, the youngest of the adult elephants, who was rescued from certain and slow death when he was three months old. Humans took pity on him after he got stuck in the mud. His elephant family couldn’t get him out and abandoned him. Jabulani’s journey to survival and young adulthood was arduous for him and his saviors; and eventually led to the establishment of Camp Jabulani and the further rescue of a group of adult elephants from Zimbabwe.
Cape Town Atlantico Helicopter Tour
Few cities in the world rival Cape Town for sheer landscape beauty. There’s something irresistibly alluring about Africa’s southernmost city sandwiched between the sea and the majestic Table Mountain. No matter how many times I see it or from which angle, I always marvel at the view when I arrive in Cape Town. On my last visit, I took advantage of the summer weather to go on a 20 minute Atlantico Helicopter flight. What a treat!
Amboseli Porini Camp
A secluded tented camp under the giant umbrella of a thorn acacia tree; elephants wandering across a grassy plain against the majestic backdrop of the snow-capped Mount Kilimanjaro; proud Masai nomads herding their cattle in the distance? My Amboseli Porini safari epitomized the timeless romance of the Kenya! The breathtaking outline of Kilimanjaro filled the horizon as we entered the Selenkay Conservation Area, a 15,000 acre (60 square kilometer) private game reserve where the camp was located, at the northern edge of Amboseli National Park. A cheetah flashed across the track just ahead of us. Further on, a pair of elephant cows and their calves showed us less concern. We waited until they cared to let us go by. Giraffes peered over the treetops. Potbellied warthog piglets scampered behind their mother. By the time we reached the camp, I had already enjoyed a rich impromptu game drive. There, I was warmly welcomed by the camp manager, Tony Musembi and members of the Masai staff, and shown to my tent: a large, comfortably furnished sleeping room and bathroom. I was pleased to notice the environmentally-friendly features of my accommodation: solar electricity, bush shower and the absence of any permanent foundations or fixtures. After enjoying a late al fresco lunch in the shade of an acacia and ample time to settle in, I was escorted to the nearby Masai village for a visit.
Serena Beach Hotel and Spa
Inspired by the rich architectural tradition of the East African coast, the Serena Beach Hotel stretched along the Indian Ocean shoreline with the exotic appeal of an ancient Swahili town. The property was divided into picturesque clusters of whitewashed two- and three-story buildings, with a central core of elegant public spaces. The reception hall set the mood. Its intricately carved portal led into a cool soaring foyer with lush oriental rugs scattered about the gleaming stone floor. To the left of the entrance the wall behind the long marble-topped reception desk was covered with rows upon rows of letterbox-shaped slots, exact replicas of those found in the harems of Swahili homes until the 19 th century. Now, they made unusual key receptacles. On both sides of the hall, tall pillars led the eye to the far end of the building and the low staircase rising to a landing with a panoramic view of the sun-washed terraces and galleried lounges facing the palm-shaded beach and the cerulean blue sea beyond.
Maisha Spa
The pundit who declared that “happiness is a journey, not a destination” probably was not thinking of a twenty-four hour trip across two continents in airplanes booked to capacity; and clearly had never experienced the Maisha Spa upon arrival. That is precisely what I did on a recent visit to Kenya: no sooner had I settled into the Mombasa Serena Beach Hotel that I headed for its spa.
Wind Dancer
Our half day helicopter excursion was an air and land adventure over Las Vegas and Lake Mead through the Grand Canyon, to the new Grand Canyon Skywalk and the Hualapai American Indian reservation in Arizona and back to Las Vegas. Flying to the reservation was the fastest and most efficient way to get there from Las Vegas.
Vintner Grill
We were surprised to discover Vintner Grill tucked in an office building in a strip mall in Summerlin, an elite Las Vegas suburb. Once inside, the décor was modern and inviting, full of gentle waning sunlight. Although the patio looked positively alluring with its tented theme we chose to remain indoors for dinner. The staff were welcoming and before we knew it we were sipping the most delicious peach and blueberry cocktails at Table 32, which we later discovered is the restaurant’s best table, known as the “Power Table.”
