We tested these nifty little in-ear speakers for daily use as well as on domestic and international flights. They reduced ambient noise, making it more comfortable to hear music and audio recordings on an MP3 player and keeping airplane noises out. It was amazing how well they worked and how comfortable they felt. We could wear them for hours without tiring.
Azul offered fine dining with a magnificent ocean view. Because I arrived extra early I was able to take my pick of seats next to the floor to ceiling windows that draw the eyes of everyone in the dining room. I chose a front row seat to the Pacific Ocean. From there I could see the dark ocean waters and the beautiful landscapes of the La Jolla Cove to the south and La Jolla Shores to the north. Although the sun had been brilliant a few hours earlier, by the time I arrived at Azul mounds of clouds had rolled in and the colors were gray and muted. Even so the vista was inspiring.
Villa de Lena, like Tobago, was a journey of discovery. We began the journey as curious visitors and ended it as friends. The two story $1.2 million villa occupied 374 square meters. It was well situated in a residential district near the tourist areas on the western end of Tobago. This meant our street was quiet with little traffic. At the same time we were within a five to 10 minute drive to the airport, tourist attractions, the Store Bay market and food stalls, restaurants, hotels, souvenir shops and tourist activities such as diving and water sports.
Named Tovaco, meaning tobacco, by the original Amerindian inhabitants, Tobago is a tropical Caribbean island just below the hurricane belt. Described in tourism brochures as “clean, green and serene,” it is an attractive destination for ecoutourists and adventurous world travelers able to appreciate its many charms hidden just below the surface. It was formerly a British colony and retains many of the British traditions such as left side driving, a charming West Indian English, and a sense of punctuality. At 21 miles by 7 miles (41 x 14 kilometers) in size it is slightly smaller than the state of Delaware in the U.S.
An early morning departure (we met our guide and three other visitors at 5:30 a.m.) and hour long drive did nothing to dampen our spirits. Scheduling conflicts had forced us to choose between a rain forest tour and a day long sail and the time had arrived to find out if it was a good decision. We had even had to make an impromptu shopping trip to Scarborough to buy long pants for the excursion (we had only brought warm weather casual clothes with us to the island and long pants were necessary to visit the forest). We picked up borrowed rain boots courtesy of our tour company at a roadside spot on our way to the rain forest trail entrance.
We liked the Lewis N. Clark color-coded pill case on extended trips. It was convenient to divide daytime and nighttime pills (blue for night and red for red for example) for 8 days of travel. It was possible for two people with different pill requirements traveling together to share a pill case. We like to use it for it for 16 days of travel for one or two travelers on the same trip. When there were two of us sharing the pill case for 16 days, we shared the 16 plastic pouches.
A large rectangular sign on the street corner in front of a Scarborough house confirmed we had found the Blue Crab Restaurant. Although first time guests might be fooled by the simple table settings and minimum fanfare, we soon discovered that inside a world of flavorful and perfectly prepared island treats awaited us. From the curry flying fish appetizer to the passion fruit ice cream we enjoyed every morsel.
It was easy to forget work, stress and the everyday while gazing toward the blue and green hues of the Caribbean on an open terrace 180 feet above the coast. We were the sole occupants of Being, a $2 million private luxury villa in Tobago created by tourism industry executive Auliana Poon a Trinidadian herself. Perched on five acres of land on the edge of the rain forest, Being had a distinctive look, a mixture of Caribbean elegance and modern styling with a playful touch of European flair.
Our stay in the aptly named Sugar Beach Villa was wonderful. Although living in South Florida with access to world famous beaches has made us pickier than most about beaches we thoroughly enjoyed the Villa’s swimming pool like beach. In addition to an exceptional white sand and turquoise water beach, the new looking property had many advantages that made it stand out.
This convertible pocket crazy and technology friendly jacket performed well on the road, especially in cool weather. It had the advantage of versatility, making the wearer look well dressed or more casual depending on the occasion. It had discreetly placed pocket space for lots of stuff like small books, wallet, notepads, cell phones, MP3 players (including designated space for the wires), keys, pens, and much more. Somebody put a lot of thought into designing the jacket and its 33 inner and outer compartments in varying sizes and it shows. It was well constructed inside and out with pockets in the front and an oversize zippered pocket in the back where you could place the sleeves if you took them off during an outing.
We loved Exuma. The islands and their people reminded us of the way The Bahamas and the Bahamians were when we first visited the island nation 20 years ago. Exuma or Great Exuma, as the locals call it, is the central island in a chain of 100 cays. It is connected by a bridge to Little Exuma, the eastern most island in the Exumas.
We first encountered the Four Seasons Spa while looking for a late lunch spot. The following afternoon we found ourselves heading back, one hour each way, for spa treatments. It was worth the drive. The Four Seasons spa facilities were impressive; especially considering that the hotel is on a small out island in The Bahamas. Although outside the sign for the spa was so discreet we missed it, the interior of the large building was cheerful and bright.
There’s something wonderful about home. It’s familiar and comfortable. Staying at The Peech Hotel was a little like being home. Waking up in a comfy and cushy bed with the lazy early morning light filtering in through the window blinds to the sound of birds reminded me of home. Being greeted by name by the hotel staff when I arrived back from an excursion or settled in for dinner made me feel especially welcome, particularly in a city of 10 million souls like Johannesburg.
This small family owned luxury lodge in the heart of South Africa’s prime game viewing private reserve set a standard of excellence other properties should strive for. At Rattray’s the total was greater than the sum of the parts. In addition to elegant, comfortable, new and spacious suites, top notch facilities, remarkable Big Five game viewing and excellent service Rattray’s also offered modern conveniences. Service was personalized and attentive, head and shoulders above the norm.
I arrived with hand luggage in tow directly from the airport at the famous Parisian restaurant looking forward to lunch. The sole guest at my table and a woman I half expected to be treated with disdain, a not unfamiliar experience at other temples of French cuisine. To make matters worse I had requested the special online menu. My table near the entrance had an excellent view of the dining room but I feared the staff would forget me. To my delight, they regaled me with abundant attention and extraordinary service.
A country rich in unspoiled natural beauty and friendly people, Nicaragua is still often overlooked by foreign visitors wary of its turbulent past. In fact, Nicaragua has been a peaceful democracy for well over a decade, and has now made the development of tourism a national priority. The country, the largest in Central America (50,000 square miles, slightly smaller than the State of New York), boasts the greatest expanse of primary rainforest north of the Amazon basin and the largest freshwater body in Central America, Lago de Nicaragua. With its abundant wildlife and spectacular scenery, Nicaragua has been thriving to capitalize on these natural assets to emulate its Costa Rican neighbor and become an eco-tourism haven. To this end, 84 nature preserves have been created, protecting more that seventeen percent of the country’s landmass.
The outstanding natural surroundings of the Morgan’s Rock Hacienda and Ecolodge, combined with the luxury of its accommodations and the friendly service provided by its ever attentive staff, should earn the resort high rankings by any standards. However, what made Morgan’s Rock unique was the success of its creators in translating their commitment to nature conservation, reforestation and community development into a retreat of exceptional architectural and esthetic quality.
The Lapa Rios Ecolodge has garnered so many awards and accolades in recent years that I approached it with high expectations; these were promptly exceeded! No words or trophies could have prepared me for the breathtaking reality of Lapa Rios. The site was spectacular. Perched high on the tip of Costa Rica’s remote Osa Peninsula, the resort discretely blended into a private nature preserve that spread over 1,000 pristine acres of one of the last remaining lowland tropical forests in Central America. The main lodge, built at the top of a 350-foot ridge, housed the reception area, restaurant and bar. From there, 16 private bungalows were strung through the lush tropical vegetation along a sloping 500-yard long path of steps and bridges that connect three ridges. Like the main lodge, all the bungalows were built exclusively of local materials, topped by high pitched roofs thickly thatched with Suiita palm and casually decorated with comfortable bamboo furniture. Each bungalow featured a private deck and patio, complete with outdoor shower, and a sumptuous view of the forest canopy rippling down to the gentle waters of the Golfo Dulce. Fifteen miles across the gulf, the rolling hills of the mainland fade in the distant haze.
This tiny nation, with its remarkably diverse topography and natural treasures, was a pleasure to visit. With a landmass of just under 20,000 square miles, approximately the size of the West Virginia, or Denmark, it stands out as a premier tourism destination in Latin America for travelers drawn by its intense biodiversity. After experiencing some of the highest rates of deforestation on the planet in the 1960’s and 1970’s, Costa Rica engineered radical measures in the past two decades to reverse this alarming trend. One quarter of its land has been set aside for national parks and nature preserves. The country can now boast to being host to a startling five percent of the world’s biodiversity, including more than 800 recorded species of birds, 200 species of mammals, and 900 kinds of trees. Costa Rica attracts over one million foreign ecologically-minded tourists per year.
For Egyptian antiquities fans like us, who have not traveled to Egypt to see the pyramids and artifacts in person, “Tutankhamun & the Golden Age of the Pharaohs” provided a glimpse of Egypt’s fabled history and its famous treasures in an easy to follow, well organized and agreeable setting near our home. King Tut’s tomb, discovered in 1922, and the treasurers in it had drawn our attention for years. We have seen numerous Egyptian exhibits in various museums including the British Museum, Louvre, The Metropolitan Museum and most recently this dedicated exhibit and remained fascinated.
We arrived at 8:30 a.m. to find the parking lot filling, tickets sold out until 5 p.m. and a short line to enter. We walked outside the building from the entrance through a roped walkway up stairs and more walkways to the entrance.
We thoroughly enjoyed Varekai, Cirque du Soleil’s colorful two-hour (plus a half an hour intermission) traveling show. Faithful to the Cirque du Soleil tradition, the performance was vivid, exciting, touching, funny, and most of all entertaining. Varekai, meaning “wherever” in the Romany gypsy language, began with an amusing and at the same time tragic clown duo who kept the audience’s attention until a young muscular man, Icarus, descended from the “sky.” The production which had a flight theme was designed to pay tribute “to the nomadic soul, to the spirit and art of the circus tradition, and to the infinite passion of those whose quest takes them along the path that leads to Varekai.”
For years Lucas Carton had found the formula to accommodate diner’s varying wants and needs consistently serving delectable dishes with extraordinary service. Its lunch menu was a great buy. On and off the menu we always found dining there an enjoyable affair. In 2005, the owner and chef decided to shake things up a bit by closing Lucas Carton and opening a new, more informal restaurant, Senderens. We were a little anxious as made our way to the reincarnation of Chef Alain Senderens old culinary home, Lucas Carton, on a snowy day soon after it opened.
We decided to try L’Astrance, named for a wildflower, after an acquaintance from a top Parisian restaurant recommended it as an up-and-coming gourmet hot spot. Although we heard from friends it was nearly impossible to book on short notice, we only had a few days left in Paris and nothing to lose so we called. Lady luck smiled in our direction, allowing us to book a table for that same night. Before finalizing our reservations, the polite gentleman explained all meals at L’Astrance were “surprise” menus.
This little bag, boasting of being 30 percent lighter than the competition, won our hearts. The sturdy frame protected the inner contents from being crushed by other bags. Even when loaded with heavy items, the unique shape prevented the bag from tipping over and allowed it to roll easily. We carried our electronic equipment for our traveling office and laptop inside ours and found it secure, spacious and easy to organize. Its combination light weight, durability, design, manageability and warranty features made this one the best carry-on suitcases I’ve ever traveled with.
A friend asked recently, after hearing our complaints about the cold weather in Paris, why we were there in winter. Summer, he reasoned, was warm and we wouldn’t need heating or cold weather clothes. Right he was. And yet, we enjoy the holiday spirit and seasonal foods available in Paris at the end of the year. People seem to be in good spirits and we make time to take advantage of the countless choices the City of Lights has to offer or just relax and enjoy being there. The 700 square-foot apartment on Rue des Ecoles enhanced our stay, providing a centrally located, pleasant, clean and comfortable corner to call our own for our month long sojourn.
We now travel with so many gadgets, especially for long flights, we were hesitant to carry one more. The number of times we sat near screaming babies or obnoxious neighbors convinced us this was one item worth carrying if it reduced the intensity of the surrounding noises. It did.
The comfortable headset with an adjustable padded head band and padded over-the-ear cups, reduced the amount and sharpness of airplane engine and other sounds. It also improved the sound of the airplane audio so it was easier to hear and to distinguish words and sounds. An unexpected bonus was the ability to connect the Plane Quiet headset to our iPod player. The sound was excellent. The on and off button was easy to use and the volume control provided a broad range of sounds audible even with the airplane and surrounding noises.
In spite of the snowy weather we found the entrance to Ledoyen easily. The restaurant faces the Petit Palais and sits back a short distance from the famed Champs Elysees. Although in the absence of a doorman or host, we were a bit reluctant to pass through the vacant hall; our courage was rewarded when we discovered a polite hostess sitting at a table under an imposing grand staircase. After confirming we had reservations and turning away would be diners without any, she led us upstairs.
We rode the train from Paris to Reims on a cold winter Monday, found a taxi easily and dashed from the train station on a speedy cab to Les Crayeres to make up for the 20 minute delay in the train schedule. This delay caused us to arrive later than we had planned at the restaurant (1:45 p.m.). In spite of our late entrance, the staff were awaiting our arrival and welcomed us warmly.
We wound our way on foot from our nearby Latin Quarter rental apartment through the cobblestone street of one of the oldest parts of the city to meet friends for lunch at a neighborhood restaurant, Jacques Cagna. Although it was a short walk and we found the restaurant easily, it was cold and by the time we reached Jacques Cagna we were ready to be in doors. Walking in from the freezing cold on a gray Parisian winter day we were thankful for the warm welcome and English friendly attitude.
Ever wonder how the great French chefs create those wonderful dishes? We visited the Cordon Bleu cooking school in Paris to find out. We encountered helpful staff, a friendly and talented chef, a well situated and convenient cooking school with translated (French to English) short gourmet workshops and longer term certificate courses. We participated in a one-hour private workshop in the school’s 15th arrondissement headquarters. The Cordon Bleu school, started as a newspaper in the mid 1800’s, had a staff of 50 including 11 master chefs, and as many as 180 students who participated in private workshops like ours, gourmet courses or certificate programs.
Problems with the landing strip at the camp we planned to visit caused a change in our travel program and a last minute change of camp to Xigera, pronounced kee-jeh-rah. From the beginning, one of the things that appealed to us at Xigera was the guest diversity. We were the sole Americans among a group of Europeans and Aussies. Our fellow guests there, more even than at other camps, seemed especially eager to chat with everyone else and learn about them and their game viewing experiences. We quickly struck up conversation with several couples and found we especially enjoyed the meal times and social moments at the Camp.
The wide range of activities available at this lodge set it apart from many other camps. While at Sussi, we experienced game drives in the Mosi-oi-Tunya National Park, a trip to the world famous Livingstone Falls, and riverboat rides at sunset where we viewed wildlife from the river. The sunsets on the upper Zambezi River were some of the most stunning we have ever seen. Because Sussi Lodge was within the Mosi-oi-Tunya National Park there was an abundance of wildlife that came into the camp area, and the wildlife viewing from the common areas overlooking the upper Zambezi River was outstanding
Well-known as the temporary home of former South African president Nelson Mandela when he was released from prison, the all-suite Saxon had a homey yet sophisticated feel. At the same time, we felt safe inside the compound-like grounds which blended in discreetly with the neighborhood of heavily guarded upscale properties. From a tourist perspective, it was a convenient location. We were minutes away from Sandton City, one of Johannesburg’s best known malls, and many popular restaurants.
One of our fondest memories of Savute Safari Lodge was bathing with elephants – well almost. A bachelor herd frolicked in the waterhole immediately in front of our room while I showered. Thanks to the glass windows and sliding glass door I could see the waterhole and the elephants from the shower. They went on drinking and spraying themselves with water long into the afternoon allowing Gary to observe them while he took his shower a little while later. We continued watching them delightedly from the living area of our room for several hours.
Named for a combination of the
We chose the RedOxx Safari-Beanos Bag PR6 because it was spacious enough to be used as a main check in luggage bag, yet narrow enough and tall enough to still fit into a charter plane luggage space for our trip to Africa. It is a soft sided bag made of durable 1000 weight urethane coated Dupont certified Cordura nylon. We particularly liked that all zippers are self-locking and the seams are double stitched. Our khaki colored bag was easy to carry and to handle.
Located within the borders of South Luangwa National Park, Puku Ridge Tented Camp had a traditional safari feel with modern comforts and amenities. Each tent was built on a concrete slab for a sturdy yet sophisticatedly rustic feel. The décor was simple and romantic, highlighting a beautiful sunken bathtub. The camp was situated on a ridge overlooking the African veldt (a field), which had abundant wildlife and beautiful sunrises in the mornings. Because the camp was inside park borders, animals wandered through as they pleased.
When was the last time you washed your hands with rosewater and had your face painted at your dining table? For us our visit to Moyo provided the first opportunity and it was lots of fun. Smiling staff, slightly shy, welcomed us to our corner table on the entertainment level, one of five levels at the 500-seat restaurant in the heart of a swanky Johannesburg neighborhood. Scant minutes passed before a pleasant lady in African garb took our drinks order. A server soon followed with a pitcher and bowl in hand. She poured rose water over our hands and provided a towel for us to dry them. A few minutes later she returned and painted our faces (cheeks and foreheads) following a Masaai Mara tradition. She drew small flowers and dots with black and white water soluble paint; another, the more masculine design was made with dots only. Moyo, which means soul or life in Swahili, was one of four such restaurants in South Africa serving African food (ranging from North Africa Tagines to South African Boboties) to one million guests.
It required a day of travel and three flights, the last one on a small bush plane, from Cape Town to reach Kwetsani Camp. We left the comfort of our waterfront hotel at 7 a.m and reached our new honeymoon suite at Kwetsani at 7 p.m. Although we were tired and hungry, we were also thrilled from a close viewing with a female leopard on our way from the airstrip to the Camp. Kwetsani could house up to 10 guests on its one kilometre site which was raised on stilts beneath a shady canopy overlooking the plains. It was one of several properties on the Jao Reserve, a 15-year 60,000 hectare concession with maximum guest occupancy of 48. The large elongated island was heavily wooded with palm mangosteen and fig trees and was one of the most remote camps in the expansive Okavango Delta. That night we enjoyed a fireside buffet dinner on the sandy boma enclosure. Prior to dinner, we watched with pleasure as local staff members sang and danced around the roaring fire with enthusiasm and laughter.
Although every trip and every lodge and camp we have visited in the past had qualities that distinguished it among its peers, some stand out for their sheer excellence. Our stay at Kings Pool, named for a Scandinavian monarch who visited the area before the camp was built, was one of the most rewarding overall visits to a game viewing tented camp in two dozen experiences to date. Fronting an oxbow of the Linyati River, Kings Pool had a rare combination of a superb location, extraordinary game viewing possibilities, a well designed, spacious and comfortable room, superior “home cooked” food and an outstanding, experienced and knowledgeable guide.
Our 45-minute drive from Sandhurst to Lanseria International Airport on the northwest outskirts of Johannesburg was straightforward and uneventful. We found parking easily and entered the small airport looking forward to a panoramic flight. We cleared airport security in the company of our affable pilot Alistair and walked across the tarmac to a five-seat Squirrel helicopter. Minutes later, after a safety briefing, we were airborne and heading into Johannesburg with a platter of snacks and a carton of fruit juice for each of us. Hot air caused the flight to be bumpy so we had to eat the snacks later when our stomachs had settled.
The common areas at the Chichele Presidential Lodge were beautifully appointed, combining European flair with classic African design. They were open, airy spaces overlooking the African bush that undulates over rolling hills finally giving way to a river in the distance. Chichele is located on a hilltop above the Luangwa river bottoms, which are teaming with wildlife. Evening meals were exceptional, served out under the stars on a patio situated near the swimming pool. The patio provided a quiet, private, and intimate setting. We especially enjoyed the candle light dinner for two with a dedicated waiter who served our table only. On our second night, the evening meal was an excellent Bra i (barbeque) served at a banquet style table. The service was attentive, helpful and gracious.
Our second visit to the Cape Grace was once again a pleasure. We only had one afternoon and night to spend in Cape Town (our international flight departed the following morning) and although there were many choices near the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront our initial visit to the Cape Grace was so positive we decided to return. Staff were attentive and polite and the facilities were just as handsome and comfort oriented as the last time although our room had signs of a little wear. The small hotel, offered well designed, luxurious, waterfront accommodations for business and pleasure oriented guests with great attention to detail.
Our first impression of Camp Okavango was colored by the positive comments we had heard from fellow travelers before arriving there. Whenever we mentioned to someone we were headed to Camp Okavango their faces would light up in a smile. They would tell us how much they had enjoyed their stay and send their regards to Rob and Tammy, the Camp managers. We arrived at Camp Okavango following one of the bumpiest bush plane flights we’ve ever had, hot and nauseous not to mention shaky. Rob’s quiet and concerned welcome was priceless. Our introduction to the Camp was beneath the huge mangoosteen tree that was the heart of the one square kilometer island based Camp. Under its shade we enjoyed pleasant moments of contemplation, conversation and excellent bird watching. Thanks to a water feature at the base of the tree many birds congregated and nested there.
We had heard so much about the famous horizontal first class seats, when we finally encountered them we didn’t know what to think. After four long flight segments on Air France first class, we say the seats alone are worth flying first class. There are other more subtle benefits such as the less crowded cabin (only 12-13 passenger capacity on our flights), less crowded first class lounge, in-flight loungewear, dedicated heads (bathrooms), extra legroom when the seat is in normal position, polite service attitude and guaranteed meal selections.
Our half hour drive from the Cape Town airport to the Steenberg Hotel was easy. On the way, we admired the beauty of the area including the mountainous background that gave it a dreamlike quality. Inside the property, which shared space with an upscale golf community, there were grapevines lining the road. At the Steenberg, we were close enough to enjoy all the benefits of bustling Cape Town and yet it was a different world of serene beauty.
After a few days of game viewing and a long drive into town nothing feels better than a massage and beauty treatments. It was especially nice to change into on a bathrobe and oversize slippers in our Cape Grace hotel room and walk down the hall to the hotel spa for a much needed respite. A large and colorful mosaic greeted me behind the glass doors of the spa. Beyond it a young lady welcomed me politely and showed me to a waiting area nestled between therapy rooms. The common room had a marvelous view of Cape Town and its famous Table Mountain. Being the only one in the room, I sat down in a cushy lounge chair, sipping herbal tea and enjoying the million dollar private view.
After two days of traveling from the U.S. to South Africa via Europe we arrived in Port Elizabeth jet lagged and exhausted. Viktor, a Shamwari representative, awaited us just outside the arrivals area and drove us through verdant and rolling hills to Eagles Crag at the 20,000 hectare Shamwari Game Reserve. An hour later found us at the entrance to elegant Eagles Crag, named for the crowned and booted eagles that made the area their home, and one of six properties on the Shamwari Game Reserve. The Reserve, named for the word friendship in Shona, was the first project to repopulate land in the Eastern Cape area of South Africa with animals that, over time, had been exterminated by man. When we visited, the Reserve had an abundance of healthy animals and the largest concentration of black and white rhino in private hands in the world. When we arrived, lodge managers Tania and Ryan Plakanouris welcomed us and helped us settle in to our spacious suite with a view of the crowned eagle’s nest.
Our week-long trip aboard the SeaDream II was reminiscent of the by-gone days of classic ship travel where passengers had an opportunity to meet each other while sharing time and space with fellow travelers and crew members. In an era fraught with time constraints our “cruise” aboard SeaDream II provided us the luxury of meeting like minded people while enjoying a leisurely and luxurious voyage along the coast from Italy to Spain in the prime of the area’s tourist season.
We thoroughly enjoyed the pluses the sailing offered such as a limited number of passengers (there were 108 of us) and high crew to passenger ratio (there were 96 crew members).
Neichel was filled with soft sunlight in the early afternoon when we arrived following a 30-minute drive from our waterfront hotel. The décor was contemporary with woods and Spanish style touches. There were bottles and condiment containers crowding the serving stations, reminding us that this was a working restaurant with a strong emphasis on the pleasures of the palate.