Our half hour drive from the Cape Town airport to the Steenberg Hotel was easy. On the way, we admired the beauty of the area including the mountainous background that gave it a dreamlike quality. Inside the property, which shared space with an upscale golf community, there were grapevines lining the road. At the Steenberg, we were close enough to enjoy all the benefits of bustling Cape Town and yet it was a different world of serene beauty.
What could be better than a top of the line game viewing boutique lodge filled with healthy animals in a malaria free reserve? One with a charming holistic on-site spa. The Eagles Crag Spa was just what the doctor ordered. After two days of international travel with so many connections I lost count, the thought of a spa treatment was inspirational.
After two days of traveling from the U.S. to South Africa via Europe we arrived in Port Elizabeth jet lagged and exhausted. Viktor, a Shamwari representative, awaited us just outside the arrivals area and drove us through verdant and rolling hills to Eagles Crag at the 20,000 hectare Shamwari Game Reserve. An hour later found us at the entrance to elegant Eagles Crag, named for the crowned and booted eagles that made the area their home, and one of six properties on the Shamwari Game Reserve. The Reserve, named for the word friendship in Shona, was the first project to repopulate land in the Eastern Cape area of South Africa with animals that, over time, had been exterminated by man. When we visited, the Reserve had an abundance of healthy animals and the largest concentration of black and white rhino in private hands in the world. When we arrived, lodge managers Tania and Ryan Plakanouris welcomed us and helped us settle in to our spacious suite with a view of the crowned eagle’s nest.
: Carnivore, a large yet welcoming restaurant able to seat more than 500 diners, was a must-stop for the game and meat lovers among us. During our visits, we enjoyed some of the greatest selection of game meats we have found in an urban restaurant anywhere. T he centerpiece of the restaurant was a large circular fire area with 52 spits and a 5.3 meter diameter extractor fan. It was there that expert cooks charcoal grilled our food to perfection.
Imagine waking to the sound of a young wounded water buffalo being hunted by a pack of hungry lions as it searches for the safety of the herd. Now imagine walking out into the bush to see how the drama ended; standing fifty yards from a pack of lionesses tearing apart a carcass when they pick up your scent and scramble. Though we were warned that it is rare for visitors to have close encounters with animals during bush walks, lady luck was with us that day. We followed our able and patient guides to the kill shortly after breakfast our first morning at the only wilderness concession inside Kruger National Park and a big five area, Plains Camp at Rhino Walking Safaris.
Our stay in Garonga, a 2,500 hectare stylistic holistic haven in the bush, was soothing. After weeks in remote game viewing areas of Southern Africa , delayed flights, a long drive from Johannesburg in a manual 4 x 4 along unfamiliar roads, we arrived in Garonga a bit stressed. Used to focusing our energy on dawn and sunset game drives, it took some effort to refocus and appreciate the main attraction at Garonga, our aesthetically oriented surroundings and the leisure services available.