We found Pierre Gagnaire’s signature restaurant tucked in a corner of the empty Belle Époque Hotel Balzac, on a quiet side street a stone’s throw from the Champs Elysees. Although there was no sign or number to indicate we had the correct address and from the outside the building looked empty, on closer inspection we discovered a promotional flyer for the restaurant in a display case.
Every time we dine at Helene Darroze we leave satisfied and looking forward to a prompt return. On our most recent visit to Paris, hers was the only restaurant we visited three times; three times, the meal was fantastic. Her dishes were bold, playful and full of surprises. We found the usual items available at other top tier French restaurants like truffles, scallops, duck and goose foie gras paired or prepared in unexpected ways or with exotic ingredients. Combinations that in a less experienced and gifted chef might annoy or clash, were vibrant, memorable, and perhaps most important worth repeating. Her style, though elegant and thoroughly French, is novel and packs a culinary punch. We hope it has staying power.
A precursor of many of today’s French cuisine luminaries, Lasserre was established by entrepreneur Rene Lasserre in 1947 in a derelict warehouse. Today it is situated in the moneyed and desirable 8 arrondissement. A simple sign on the front of the building confirmed we had arrived. Inside, attentive staff members appeared as soon as we passed the threshold of the automatic doors. They took our coats and whisked us to the upstairs dining room.
We decided to try L’Astrance, named for a wildflower, after an acquaintance from a top Parisian restaurant recommended it as an up-and-coming gourmet hot spot. Although we heard from friends it was nearly impossible to book on short notice, we only had a few days left in Paris and nothing to lose so we called. Lady luck smiled in our direction, allowing us to book a table for that same night. Before finalizing our reservations, the polite gentleman explained all meals at L’Astrance were “surprise” menus.
For years Lucas Carton had found the formula to accommodate diner’s varying wants and needs consistently serving delectable dishes with extraordinary service. Its lunch menu was a great buy. On and off the menu we always found dining there an enjoyable affair. In 2005, the owner and chef decided to shake things up a bit by closing Lucas Carton and opening a new, more informal restaurant, Senderens. We were a little anxious as made our way to the reincarnation of Chef Alain Senderens old culinary home, Lucas Carton, on a snowy day soon after it opened.
We wound our way on foot from our nearby Latin Quarter rental apartment through the cobblestone street of one of the oldest parts of the city to meet friends for lunch at a neighborhood restaurant, Jacques Cagna. Although it was a short walk and we found the restaurant easily, it was cold and by the time we reached Jacques Cagna we were ready to be in doors. Walking in from the freezing cold on a gray Parisian winter day we were thankful for the warm welcome and English friendly attitude.
