We found Pierre Gagnaire’s signature restaurant tucked in a corner of the empty Belle Époque Hotel Balzac, on a quiet side street a stone’s throw from the Champs Elysees. Although there was no sign or number to indicate we had the correct address and from the outside the building looked empty, on closer inspection we discovered a promotional flyer for the restaurant in a display case.
Every time we dine at Helene Darroze we leave satisfied and looking forward to a prompt return. On our most recent visit to Paris, hers was the only restaurant we visited three times; three times, the meal was fantastic. Her dishes were bold, playful and full of surprises. We found the usual items available at other top tier French restaurants like truffles, scallops, duck and goose foie gras paired or prepared in unexpected ways or with exotic ingredients. Combinations that in a less experienced and gifted chef might annoy or clash, were vibrant, memorable, and perhaps most important worth repeating. Her style, though elegant and thoroughly French, is novel and packs a culinary punch. We hope it has staying power.
On our last visit to Le Cinq, we ordered the tasting menu that showcased the chef’s specialties. Although the five-course tasting menu was in some respects better than the previous time we visited the restaurant, the main course was less than stellar and the service was uneven. When we first arrived, early, the service, was as we remembered. We received a warm reception and were looked after rather well. Once the dining room began to fill, there was a frenzy of activity and the service declined noticeably. At one point our glasses were left unfilled for a long stretch of time. Because the staff were busy with other guests, we had to wait for our second bottle of wine to chill while commencing our next course.
A precursor of many of today’s French cuisine luminaries, Lasserre was established by entrepreneur Rene Lasserre in 1947 in a derelict warehouse. Today it is situated in the moneyed and desirable 8 arrondissement. A simple sign on the front of the building confirmed we had arrived. Inside, attentive staff members appeared as soon as we passed the threshold of the automatic doors. They took our coats and whisked us to the upstairs dining room.
