After officiating in the kitchen for almost three decades, Chef Bomo retired in 1999, but not before he had engaged his chosen successor, Thierry Chefdeville, who has run L’Echevin ever since, garnering multiple Michelin and Gault et Millau awards along the way. On my recent visit, one look at the dinner menu promised imaginative variations on local favorites, and an haute cuisine twist to the renowned specialties of the region. It was enough to convince me that even in a town reputed for being home to several bonnes tables (good tables, as the best restaurants are often referred to), I wouldn’t consider dining anywhere else on this visit.
Chef Chefdeville and his team did not disappoint me. Every course was superb, from the nightly opening salvo of surprising amuse-bouche to the irresistible desserts. Even the crusty miniature baguette with three mounds of flavored butter (smoked sea salt, lemon and seaweed) arranged on a slate that arrived with the menu each night before the aforementioned amuse-bouche was memorable. Then there was the wine list with its extensive selection of local labels, a number of them available by the glass for an easy opportunity to discover new favorites; and the ever-attentive service of the friendly staff. Both nights of my visit, with different menus, L’Echevin delivered an outstanding dining experience, one that I will gladly repeat on future visits to the area.
Executive Chef Thierry Chefdeville
Handicapped Access No
Location L’Echevin occupied the rear of the first floor of the Romantik Hotel Le Maréchal. It overlooked the River Lauch in the historic La Petite Venise (Little Venice) neighborhood of Colmar.
MaÎTre D&Rsquo;HÔTel Geneviève Fisher
Opened-Renovated The restaurant opened in 1972. It was renovated after the current owners acquired the property from the founding chef in 2000.
Owned The Bomo family
Size The two dining rooms could comfortably seat up to 40 guests. An additional dining room was available for private parties, as well as a riverside patio during the summer, which could increase dining capacity up to 80 guests. The restaurant employed a staff of 20.
Type Of Restaurant Intimate luxury gourmet dining
A cassolette (small casserole) of lobster followed: a shelled half lobster served on a stew of mussels, clams, scallops and penne pasta in a light cream sauce fragrant with fresh basil. It was accompanied by a glass of a golden full-bodied white Côtes du Rhône, Domaine de la Guicharde, 2010. A much-needed break came at this point, in the form of a tiny glass of muscat wine granita that I would gladly have called dessert. But it was merely a prelude to the next course, several paper-thin slices of medium rare filet of beef on a tartlet of morels au gratin, accompanied by a deep crimson Alsatian pinot noir with a lovely red berry palate with a hint of vanilla (Ginglinger, 2010). Mercifully, I had had the foresight to pre-order a light dessert: a delicious Mirabelle Pot de Crème paired with a mound of verbena ice cream. It was a meal worthy of an impressive anniversary celebration indeed.
Having also reserved a table for the following night I resolved to show more restrain in the selection of my second dinner. Said restrain lasted only as long as it took me to spy the paté de foie gras at the top of the appetizer offerings. Even my requested half portion was a hefty slab of velvet smooth goose liver paté, served with a pear chutney crumble, and the de rigueur slice of toasted brioche. It was followed by grilled Arctic char on a bed of truffle risotto garnished with a Parmesan tuile . On this occasion, I opted to sip on my flute of Crémant throughout the meal. Kudos to Catherine Wiss, the charming and attentive assistant maître d’hôtel, who was filling in for her boss that evening, for recommending the perfect dessert to end my meal. The Croustillant Praliné was an exquisite mango-raspberry mousse on a disc of crunchy Dacquoise, coated with a thick cream of bitter chocolate, and garnished with gold threads for good measure. A superb finale to this two-night gastronomy extravaganza.
Reservations Strongly recommended
Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King
Service The service was excellent, friendly, attentive and professional.
Would You Dine There Again-Recommend It? Yes
- 6 Place des
- Six Montagnes Noires
- 68000, Colmar
- +33 (0) 3 89 41 60 32
- +33 (0) 3 89 24 59 40