- Overall Impression
- Common Areas
- Cellars Wine And Alcoholic Beverage Selection
Although we dined in a temporary venue (the restaurant’s space was being renovated) the dinner service was fine including lovely plates, silverware, glassware and perfectly ironed linen napkins. Four white orchids added a touch of elegance to our table.
What was truly memorable was the food itself. From beginning to end Chef Andrea Aprea’s Tasting Menu dishes were refined, artistically presented and delicious. If traveling in southern Italy I would detour to Naples just to dine at Il Comandante.
In Italy, he had worked at the Rossellinis in Ravello as sous chef de cuisine, the Bulgari Hotel & Resort in Milan as chef saucier, Hotel Villa San Michele in Fiesole as garde manager chef and the Grand Hotel et de Milan as chef saucier. Chef Aprea had also been chef entremetier at Toto & San Frediano in London, head chef at Restaurant Mcities Live in Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia and chef saucier at L’Artista in London.
Chef De Cuisine Ciro Petrone
Executive Chef Andrea Aprea
Handicapped Access Yes, there was a ramp and an elevator in the building.
Head Sommelier Francesco Palma
Location Within the Romeo Hotel in Naples, Italy.
Opened-Renovated The restaurant opened December 2008. Due to renovations it was temporarily housed on the ground floor of the hotel when we dined there.
Owned And Managed Romeo Alberghi S.r.l.
Restaurant Manager Vincenzo Murolo
Size When it reopens in its permanent space (expected to be in late 2010) the restaurant should have 200 square meters of dining space, 150 square meters inside, and 50 square meters outside; and be able to accommodate 45 guests inside and 16 outside. Fourteen staff, seven in the dining room and seven in the kitchen, worked at the restaurant.
Type Of Restaurant In line with the spirit of the hotel, the cuisine at Il Comandante was designed to be a “blend of flavours and suggestions” inspired by the land and its rich culinary tradition presented in a contemporary style.
For the meal proper we sampled the chef’s Tasting Menu: Mackerel millefeuille, burrata cheese, “soft and crisp” lima beans and compote of Tropea onions; Roll of milk leaf, buffalo mozzarella, tomato dressing and basil pesto (a favorite); Zucchini cream, zucchini blossoms and salt ricotta cheese; Carnaroli rice, lemon, rosemary and roasted langoustines; and Fillet of turbot, chicory hearts, violet potatoes and light sauce of anchovies. For dessert there were Strawberries, white chocolate, olive oil biscuit and pistachio. The meal was accompanied with Fiano Donnaluna “De Concilis” and Chateau d’Arche Gran Cru Classé 2001 Sauternes.
Special Menus The restaurant offered two six-course seasonal menus, a Land Menu for € 90 and Sea Menu € 100, both excluding beverages.
Among the wines there were 162 Italian whites, 188 Italian reds, 14 Italian sweet wines, 98 French whites, 170 French reds, 8 French sweet wines, 68 red and white wines from Chile, Canada, and New Zealand. Noteworthy bottles: Domaine Krug Millèsimè 1995, Domaine Armand De Brignac Brut Gold Prestige, Domaine Louis Roederer Cristal Brut Rosé 2000, Domaine Salon Les Mesnil Brut Blanc de Blanc 1997, Gaja & Rey Angelo Gaja 2004 to 2006, Riserva Biondi Santi Bunello di Montalcino 1998 and 1999, Ornellaia Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2000 to 2004, Solaia Marchesi Antinori 1997, Sassicaia Tenuta San Guido 2005, Domaine La Romanèe Conti La Tâche Grand Cru 2000 to 2004, Domaine La Romanèe Conti Richebourg Grand Cru 2001 to 2004, Domaine La Romanèe Conti Échezeaux Grand Cru 2004, Château Margaux Le Grand Cru Classè 1996 to 1998, Château Ausone 1e Grand Cru Classé A 1998 to 2001, Château Cheval Blanc 1e Grand Cru Classé A 2000, Château Mouton-Rothschild 1e Grand Cru Classé 1995 to 2000, Château Latour 1e Grand Cru Classé 1995 to 2000, Château Lafite-Rothschild 1e Grand Cru Classé 2000 to 2005, Château Le Pin 1997 to 2001 and Château Petrus 2001 and 2003.