Le Cinq Restaurant, Paris, France

Overall Impression On our last visit to Le Cinq, we ordered the tasting menu that showcased the chef’s specialties. Although the five-course tasting menu was in some respects better than the previous time we visited the restaurant, the main course was less than stellar and the service was uneven. When we first arrived, early, the service, was as we remembered. We received a warm reception and were looked after rather well. Once the dining room began to fill, there was a frenzy of activity and the service declined noticeably. At one point our glasses were left unfilled for a long stretch of time. Because the staff were busy with other guests, we had to wait for our second bottle of wine to chill while commencing our next course.

When we placed our order we asked if it was possible to substitute one of the tasting courses for one of us for something, anything, else. The waiter responded brusquely saying that was not possible. Although a few minutes later he returned to say they could substitute it, we were left dumbfounded at his initial curt response. We have made this request at other fine restaurants before, and since, and always receive a positive response with minimum fuss.

Twenty minutes passed before a replacement napkin was brought. While collecting half full dishes from the table, the server asked if we had disliked the dish. Although we said it had been disappointing, he offered no explanation, didn’t apologize or offer a replacement. We hope these service flaws were a glitch rather than a trend.

On the positive side, almost all the courses were delectable. With the exception of the veal main course, from the chestnut appetizer to the exotic fruit dessert we thoroughly enjoyed the food.

About The Head Sommelier Thierry Hamon, 30, is a graduate of the Lycée Hôtelier of Dinard (France). He began his career in 1995 with Eric Beaumard as a Commis at “La Poularde,” a restaurant based in Montrond-les-Bains, France.

He worked there for two years before heading to Oxford where he joined the team of the French Restaurant “Le Manoir aux Quatre Saisons.” He returned to “La Poularde” where he worked for another two years before joining the crew of the George V Paris in December 1999, when the hotel reopened. Sommelier at the sides of Eric Beaumard, he became assistant to the restaurant’s former wine steward, Enrico Bernardo, in April 2000.

Chef De Cuisine Alain Davy

Executive Chef Philippe Legendre

Handicapped Access Yes

Head Sommelier Thierry Hamon

Location In the lobby of the prestigious George V hotel in the ultra chic eighth arrondissement

Managed Four Seasons

Owned Prince Alwaleed from Saudi Arabia

Pastry Chef Fabrice Lecleir

Restaurant Director And Manager Eric Beaumard (voted 2003 “Sommelier of the year” by his peers in the French magazine “Le Chef”) and Thierry Jacques

Size 60

Type Of Restaurant French gourmet haute cuisine

About The Executive Chef Prior to joining Le Cinq for its December 1999 opening, Philippe Legendre worked at the well-known restaurant Taillevent. He was the 1996 winner of the prestigious Meilleur Ouvrier de France award, which honors France’s finest artisans. Originally from the Vendée region, in north-western France, he apprenticed at the Embruns from 1974 and has held positions in some of the Paris’s finest restaurants, including Lucas Carton and the Ritz.. Philippe was awarded the highest culinary recognition when Le Cinq received its prestigious third star in the 2003 edition of the Michelin Guide and was voted “Chef of the year 2003” by his peers in the French magazine “Le Chef”

DÉCor-Ambiance Set in a beautiful classic gray and gold large salon decorated by French Architect Pierre-Yves Rochon to simulate a French castle. We liked the flower arrangements.

Cellars Wine And Alcoholic Beverage Selection Excellent with a vast number of selections in a variety of price ranges. This year, Le Cinq was the only restaurant in the world to boast two Best Sommelier in Europe champions. Through the Four Seasons Hotel Wine Cellar they have access to 50,000 bottles of wine.

Meal We selected the five course Decouverte light tasting menu (120 euros). The first course was a delicious and savory Royale de chataignes au jus de truffes (Chestnut royal with truffle juice). Then there was Aubergine en risotto aux cepes, saveur de truffe et d’olives noires (Eggplant risotto with cepe mushrooms flavoured with truflle and black olives); followed by Coquilles St. Jacques poelées au minestrone de legumes d’autome (Pan fried sea scallops with autumn vegetables minestrone). The main course we ordered (the only course with two choices) was Médallon de veau de lait sauce homardine, polenta a l’estragon (Medallion of farm milk-fed veal, lobster sauce and tarragon polenta). Dessert was satisfyingly tart and sweet at the same with a fresh fruit flavor.

Special Menus The market selections lunch 80 euros; for the more adventurous, there was a five-course chef’s light tasting menu for 120 euros

Other The china, linen and silver were custom made. A children’s menu was available on request. Dress Smart casual attire for lunch and formal or business for dinner. Cigarettes and cigar smoking are permitted in a designated area of the grand dining room. One of the many features we liked at Le Cinq was the respectable distance between tables. This allowed for private conversation and a feeling of space and privacy even though everyone dined in the same large salon. It also meant we never once noticed a cigarette or cigar odor. The one time we thought newly arrived neighbors would smoke, the restaurant manager immediately offered to relocate us if we wanted. It was not necessary.

Le Cinq was awarded the Michelin’s highly coveted 2004 three macaron (star) rating.

Reservations Required Yes at +33 1 49 52 71 54

Date Of Last VisitDecember 2006

Ease Of Making Reservations Excellent

Other Visits 2007 2008 2012

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service The service, which has been outstanding in the past, was disappointing. Initially staff were cordial and welcoming. As the meal progressed and the restaurant became full, serving staff visited our table less frequently and the time between glass refills and someone checking on us grew to an unacceptable level. We also noticed a slightly haughty attitude from one of the serving staff. Flexibility and willingness to accommodate guests, one of the qualities of this famous restaurant we liked the most, were less apparent during previous visits. In the past, we always felt welcome and well looked after at Le Cinq. During our last visit the welcome mat was at the cleaners. We hope they bring it back soon.

Would You Dine There Again-Recommend It? Yes