Overall Impression It had been 12 years since we had dined at Lasserre, named for René Lasserre, who created the restaurant almost 80 years prior, and we wondered how it might have changed. From the valet at the entrance to the all male formally attired dining room staff inside the service was as attentive as I remembered. From the ground floor we climbed a short staircase one floor. Our escort pulled thick curtains aside to reveal an elegant dining room with elaborate and tasteful décor. Dim fall light filtered through large street-facing windows. Beyond them we had a bird’s eye view of the Grand Palais, one of the city’s well known historic monuments.

We were there on a fall day in the midst of weeks of Yellow Vest demonstrations often centered on the upscale western neighborhoods of the city, including the famed Golden Triangle where the restaurant is located. Perhaps because of that ours was one of only a handful of tables that day.

Our intimate table occupied prime real estate in a corner of what appeared to be the best section of the salon, two steps down from the arrival level. From our well cushioned and comfortable seats we had an unobstructed view across the dining room and through the windows to the facade of the world famous building across the street. Above us a mirrored ceiling drew our attention, partly because it showcased the room from an unexpected angle and partly because despite the outdoor chill we anticipated the roof to open during the meal.

Despite occasional noise from an adjacent construction site I liked that, except for the piano player’s soft sounds, it was quiet in the space we shared with few other diners. Guests were French speaking and middle-aged. Lunch was artfully presented and “modern” in style, eliciting mostly sighs of pleasure and satisfaction. We liked the well prepared dishes, each one cooked in a way that brought out the natural flavors to their best advantage. In the future, should I be in need of an elegant gourmet venue to celebrate a special occasion in that neighborhood Lasserre will be on my short list for its excellent service, beautiful interior with an inspired view and aspirational Tasting Menu.

About the Executive Chef Nicolas Le Tirrand trained in Pavillon Ledoyen, Plaza Athénée, Four Seasons George V, and 39V. At Lasserre he sought to be rigorous, straightforward and contemporary.

According to his biography, he is a patient, workaholic and bon vivant cook, who masters the art of assembling, seasoning and cooking at the perfect temperature; and a chef, thanks to his leadership abilities, who wishes to be particularly aware of product sourcing, waste management and globally on ecology.

Executive Chef Nicolas Le Tirrand

Handicapped Access Yes. The restaurant was on the first floor. There was an elevator.

Head Sommelier Stéphane Jan

Restaurant manager Gerald Louis Canfailla

Languages Spoken In addition to French some staff spoke English and were able to welcome guests in English.

Location On the well known Franklin Roosevelt Avenue in the ritzy eighth arrondissement.

Opened-Renovated The restaurant opened in 1942. In 2017, it underwent a “full renovation.”

Owned A restaurant spokesperson declined to identify the restaurant owner for undisclosed reasons.

Pastry Chef Jean Lachenal

Size The restaurant was 170 square meters large and could accommodate up to 80 guests. We estimated a staff compliment of 30.

Decor The décor was designed to emphasize a sense of the theatrical. A tiny elevator, upholstered with black fabric embroidered with a multitude of doves, the house symbol, transported guests between two levels. There was a 35 square meter 66-year old sunroof that once during our meal opened onto the Parisian sky. There were white orchid plants like sentinels standing along the dining room.

Our table, and the dining room in general, faced the Grand Palais entrance. Three vast arched bay windows enhanced the view. The interior design was inspired by a winter garden to be warm and bright. The artistic inspiration of the sunbathed room was a nod to the architectural finesse of the Grand Palais, its original frescoes and monumental equestrian statues. Eight mirrors were positioned to allow the eyes to wander around the room with discretion as a nod to the founder, who was said to enjoy looking without being seen.

The sunroof was covered by a golden mirror to reflect the whiteness of the moldings and wood panels. The walls were covered by elaborate anise-green fabrics with contemporary patterns, representing birds, slender branches, flowers, butterflies, and grapes vines. The grey carpet had long and thin bronze embroidered creepers on it. There were also some antiques on display such as an earthenware piece from Saxony with a colorful parrot on top. It formed part of a collection of bird-shaped silver artifacts accumulated over the years.

Meal We had a delicious six course Tasting Menu without wine. The appetizers were: A la nage Tourteau de casier en fine gelee de navet daikon, ecume de liveche et pince tiede (a favorite); and Dans l’esprit Lasserre Gratin de macaroni a l’artichaut et a la truffe noire (macaroni gratin with artichoke and black truffles).

The main courses were: Sur sarments de cassis Homard bleu de Loctudy aux baies, crème de chou rouge a l’ail noir, jus de presse (blue lobster from Loctudy and a favorite); Fleuree de sel et d’epigrammes salle d’agneau de lait et girolles etuvees, fines arlettes de pommes de terres iodees (lamb with seaweed and potato crisps, chanterelle mushrooms and watercress); A l’unilaterale chateaubriand et quelques bettraves a la vinaigrette de cacao, vrai jus (chateaubriand with a lettuce heart served warm with olive oil to cleanse the palate with beets and cacao vinegar). The chocolate vinegar and beet were a worthy contrast to the meat.

The desserts were: Foisonne a la minute Chocolat du Perou “60% de cacao” sous de fines feuilles a la fleur de sel (60 percent dark chocolate from Peru with fleur de sel leaves); and Confite du four Banane dans sa peau sur fraicheur de rhum, ecume de cafe et crème glacee epicee aux eclats de noisette (banana prepared with rum, coffee and iced cream served with hazelnuts).

Special Menus Six course Tasting Menu for 195 euros.

Cellars Wine and Alcoholic Beverage Selection The restaurant had 50 varieties of alcohol, including rare products such as a 1914 cognac, 1890 Cognac AE d’or, and 1918 Armagnac Sempe. It also had 1,300 wine labels from all the French regions, including Domaine Armand Rousseau, Romanée Conti (Burgundy), Petrus, Lafitte, O brion, Chateau Margaux (Bordeaux), Didier Dagneau (Loire), Chateau Rayas, Domaine Henri Bonneau, and Domaine Gangloff (Rhone).

Other Amenities included WiFi, valet service, and live piano music. The entire meal was prepared using fresh (not frozen) ingredients, 50 percent of the ingredients were organic (all the vegetables were organic). Jackets were required for men.

Date of Review December 2018

Number of Visits One

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Staff were serious, attentive, efficient and polite. I was escorted down the elevator and back from the ground floor lady’s room. Our napkins were replaced with fresh dessert napkins when we concluded the savory portion of the meal.

Would You Dine Eat There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression Our most recent visit to Maison Blanche Paris was on a chilly fall day during the weeks of Yellow Vest demonstrations that rocked the western neighborhoods of the city, including the Golden Triangle where the restaurant is located. Perhaps because of that it was far from full that day. We had a pleasant well prepared lunch.

Midday sunlight filtered through the huge glass walls inside, adding sparkle to the dining room. My lunch partner faced the river while I faced a residential building across the street. We liked peering across the street at the residential building, intrigued by the labor intensive efforts of workmen lifting furnishings with a crane, and to the right at the Seine River. When we stepped outside briefly we were able to see, as we squinted against the bright sun, the Eiffel Tower. Around us a business crowd kept the volume moderate even at the mealtime peak. Staff members, many of them addressing us in English, were friendly and efficient. From the duck foie gras with salt grains atop to the delicious lemon dessert lunch was balanced, artfully presented and satisfying.

Our meal was worth repeating thanks to warm and attentive service, a pretty setting, including a side view of the Seine River from our table, and not least, a tasty and well served meal. Maison Blanche will be on our neighborhood shortlist for an informal yet upscale ambiance.

About the Restaurant Manager After graduating from the Lausanne School in Hotel Management, he worked as development manager, Restaurant and Hotel Department, at the Chamber of Commerce and Industry. Later he joined the team at Raymond Thuillier’s L’Auberge de Provence in London before spending five years at the Hôtel Château Chartrons in Bordeaux.

He then followed Alain Ducasse’s footsteps as operations manager at the Hôtel du Parc, where he remained for five years. He participated in the establishment of the famous chef’s 59 Raymond Poincaré restaurant in Paris, France, the opening of Spoon restaurants in London and Mauritius, as well as the organization of gala events in Hong Kong and Tokyo.

Chef de Cuisine Fabrice Giraud, a native of La Ciotat, began his career at Chantecler Negresco in Nice, France, Great Cascade in Paris, France and Hotel de Paris in Monaco. In 1999, he was appointed chef de cuisine for the first time at the restaurant Bread and Wine in Brussels, Belgium, which became a Michelin-starred restaurant. In 2001, he became head chef at the Grand Barrail in Saint-Emilion, France before taking the lead in the kitchens of the Perigord and the Ermenonville.

In 2009, Giraud worked at Pudong Shangri-La in Shanghai and at the Shangri-La Hotel Bosphorus Istanbul, Turkey. He also worked at Tiara Yaktsa and at the opening of Tiara Miramar Beach Hotel & Spa in Cannes, France. In March 2015, Giraud joined the Maison Blanche restaurant as chef.

Handicapped Access Yes, according to a spokesperson wheelchair bound guests were welcome. There was an elevator.

Head Sommelier David Desplanches and Kevin Quinsenac

Languages Spoken In addition to French staff were able to welcome guests in English. Nearly all the staff that looked after us spoke English.

Location In the well-known Golden Triangle.

Opened-Renovated The restaurant opened in 1990. The most recent update was in 2011 when the Terrace Montaigne was added.

Owned Benjamin Demarigny and others a spokesperson declined to identify for undisclosed reasons

Pastry Chef James Choplin

Restaurant Manager Bruno Franck

Size The restaurant had 50 employees and 410 square meters of indoor space as well as two terraces with additional capacity in warm weather. It could accommodate up to 250 dinner guests.

Type of Restaurant Fine dining

Decor The restaurant, at the top of the historic Théâtre des Champs-Élysées building, was decorated by Imaad Rahmouni in a contemporary style, emphasizing its best asset, a partial view of the Seine, the Dome of Les Invalides and the Eiffel Tower. A view of the Eiffel Tower was possible from a few tables and angles only. The tables were covered with white tablecloths and dinnerware. The only decorative items were metal pieces with the colors of the French flag. At our table there was a vase with an orchid in a pebble medium. There was a pepper grinder and Himalayan salt.

Cellars Wine and Alcoholic Beverage Selection There were 380 wine references.

Special Menus The restaurant offered a two course Lunch Menu for 49 euros and a three course Lunch Menu for 59 euros. For dinner there were three set menu options: Menu Gourmet for 72 euros, five course Menu Degustation (Tasting Menu) for 95 euros, and six course Menu Degustation for 125 euros.

For groups of more than 11 people a three course menu cost 135 euros; a four course menu cost 157 euros and a Tasting Menu was 183 euros.

Meal We had a menu selected for us by the chef, who served each of us a different dish. We began with cheese puff amouse buche and bubbly. We had three choices of bread: baguette, cereal and country.

Our appetizers: Duck foie gras, young leafs, toasted hazelnuts and Cumberland sauce (Foie gras de canard en lobe, salade de jeunes pousses, noisettes toastees et sauce Cumberland) and Perfect organic egg, salad fennel shaving’s, sun dried tomatoes, garden peas sprouts (Oeuf bio parfait a l’avocat, mimolette ancienne et Ghoa Cress).

Mains: Pan-fried meagre, jus with brown butter and preserved lemon (Maigre en peau croustillante, jus de volaille au beurre noisette et citron confit); Red Gunard seared, turnip cabbage fine mousse with apple and orange and garlic broth (Rouget grondin saisi, mousseline de chou-rave pomme orange et bouillon a l’ail); Free-range fowl leg, millefeuille layering of potatoes with comet cheese, spinach and citrus fruit (Cuisse de pintade fermiere, millefeuille de pommes de terre au comte, epinards et agrumes); Ox cheek braised in red wine, cep mushrooms, creamy polenta and shallots preserve (Joue de boeuf braisee au vin rouge, polenta cremeuse aux cepes et confit d’echalots). We especially liked the tiny mushrooms and tiny Brussels sprouts of the dish, which packed a flavor punch.

Cheese course: Before dessert we had a four cheese course with goat cheese, Saint Nectaire, Camembert, and Comte cheeses and a small salad garnished with dried figs.

Desserts: Lemon meringue and olive oil shortbread (Citron meringue et sable a l’huile d’olive) and “Maison Blanche” cake with dark chocolate (Fondant “Maison Blanche” au chocolat noir). The lemon dessert was a favorite.

A sommelier selected the following to accompany our meal: Champagne Lallier R014, 2015 Vieux Solitaire Grande Reserve AOP Maury Sec; and 2012 Zede de Labegorce Margaux.

Other There was WiFi, valet and cloakroom service. The restaurant received the Distinction L’Assiette Michelin in the 2016 Michelin Guide.

Date of Review November 2018

Number of Visits One

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service From arrival to departure the service was warm and attentive. One staff member was exceedingly shy. Tiago Martins, Alain-Philippe Present and Romain Guilherme were co-managers.

Would You Dine Eat There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression Château Vaux-le-Vicomte, a private estate open to visitors near Paris, France, was extraordinary for its historic character and timeless beauty even when compared with grand former royal residences. Named for the confluence of two valleys in the region it made a distinct splash in history. Despite the years elapsed since its heyday it retained harmony, and a luxurious dignified residential air accomplished via a painstaking labor of love and abundant renovations over many decades.

The weather was less than ideal during our spring visit. Rainy, chilly and cloudy conditions predominated that day. The overcast dark gray skies and wet grounds lent a dull pallor to the estate that made it seem somewhat sad and joyless. Also, in lieu of the guided tour we had planned our indoor exploration was truncated and the foul weather forced us to rush through our self-guided golf cart visit of the grounds.

On the plus side, the estate which welcomed some 300,000 visitors a year was especially quiet, and we had an opportunity to meet and chat briefly with Alexandre de Vogüé, one of owners and an affable host. Following his enthusiastic discussion about Vaux-le-Vicomte I realized that while for visitors the property was a French chateau of historic significance (it cost the family 1.3 million euros a year to maintain and restore the chateau and gardens) for him and his family it was their ancestral home and legacy. As of this writing, Patrice and Cristina de Vogüé live in the château’s outbuildings. From our brief time with Alexandre de Vogüé I got the impression that running the property as a thriving enterprise that welcomed tourists was a duty and a privilege. As we drove away, I felt a bit nostalgic and hopeful that I might return to see more of the chateau as well as its famous candle lit event on another occasion. Should I find myself in the vicinity of Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte in the future I hope to return at the first opportunity.

Audio Tours Audioguides were available in nine languages.

Average Duration of Visit The property staff recommended 90 minutes for an average visit for adults, including time in the château and garden. I would have lingered longer had our schedule allowed it.

Children The property welcomed children of all ages.

Established It was it founded in 1661 as a private property. In 1968, it opened as a tourist attraction.

Handicapped Access There was a special entrance for handicapped visitors and reduced admission price. Although staff were able to carry visitors with mobility problems to the ground floor (separated from the arrival floor by several steps) due to the number of stairs it was not possible for them to tour the first floor. A visit of the garden was accessible for handicapped visitors who rented electric cars.

Location In the town of Maincy and 6 kilometers from Melun in the Seine-et-Marne Department (www.turisme77.co.uk and www.paris-whatelse.com) near Paris, France

Number of Employees 70

Open The attraction was open for visitors most of the year, with the exception of part of November and January to the end of March.

Owned-Managed The Vogüé Family

Size The 72 meter long by 33 meter wide château, part of a 500 hectare property, had three floors and a viewing dome. About 300,000 visitors explored the property, which had 100 rooms, each year.

Transportation From Paris we took a train to a nearby town and from there we made our way by car to Maincy.

Description Around 65 percent of the château, including the western outbuildings housing the restaurant, gift shop and Carriage Museum we visited, was open to visitors without guides. From the original furnishings only two marble tables, in the Grande Chambre Carrée, remained. Over the years, most of the furniture was taken for Versailles or other châteaux. Present day furniture consisted mainly of period pieces bought by the current owners of the château, and some reproductions. Although we ran out of time it was possible, for a supplementary fee of 3 euros, to climb to the dome through a series of stairs to admire the three-hundred-sixty degree view from the top of the roof.

Four main characteristics made the property special. Some experts considered the château the seminal expression of the Jardin à la Française or French formal garden, the French aesthetic of formal gardens that swept Europe in the 17th century. Beginning in 1641, Nicolas Fouquet hired renowned landscape gardener André Le Nôtre to work on his estate. He used the latest technical, scientific and artistic knowledge of his era.

Second, many believe the château was the inspiration for the château Louis XIV had built in Versailles. Such assumptions are supported because king Louis XIV employed the same artists that created the château de Vaux-le-Vicomte for his new residence at Versailles and the style of both was said to be very similar.

Exceptionally, the Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte was created from scratch by three renown artists of the time, Le Nôtre, Charles Le Brun, and Louis Le Vau, who collaborated in its construction. Finally, the estate has been the property of four successive families, having never belonged to the government.

In addition, the paintings and mural decorations from Le Brun are a representation of the Early Versailles Style, one of few remaining in France from the 17th century. The different works of art, acquired by the estate, were also of an exceptional value, according to a spokesperson.

The most notable room in the property, a spokesperson explained, might be the king’s bedroom with exceptionally detailed golden decorations and lavish trompe-l’oeil. Although the room was made to host the king he never spent the night there.

Restaurant We had lunch onsite at Le Relais de l’Ecureuil, the family oriented self-service restaurant with capacity for up to 250. On Saturday nights dinner was available at restaurant Les Charmilles, which could accommodate 150. Some of the ingredients were fresh and local and the meals were prepared by a chef and a pastry chef.

Souvenir Shop According to a property spokesperson, the property had “one of the most beautiful château gift shop(s) in France.” Among the souvenirs for sale were books, including some written by members of the Vogüé family, gifts for children such as costumes and games, jewelry, leather work, tapestries, home goods, and gourmet products like estate honey. Most of the products were Vaux-le-Vicomte branded or made for Vaux-le-Vicomte, such as Petrusse scarfs.

Tours Every Saturday and Sunday from March to November the property offered tours. There were also guided tours and tours in costumes for children during October and April holidays. Private or group visits were available in some foreign languages.

Month of Visit May 2016

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Would You Visit This Attraction Again Yes

Overall Impression We liked Fontainebleau Castle as much for what it was as what it was not. What I mean by that is that it was impressive because as the residence of French monarchs for 1,000 years it had a residual a sense of home, as much as an uninhabited 1,536 room 130 acre estate can retain a sense of home. It was also clearly a tourist attraction, drawing large crowds on a regular basis minus the overwhelming near chaotic conditions of other more popular former French royal residences and attractions.

That was because it had a fraction of the visitors as some of the other well known castles, museums and attractions in or near Paris. For example, where Fontainebleau had about 500,000 visitors a year and a staff of 130 Versailles, a famous former royal residence near Paris, had 7.5 million visitors and ten times the staff. We had nearly equal rainy conditions during our visit to both castles, yet our experience in Fontainebleau was by far more sedate and pleasant than the one to Versailles. On the day of our visit, while there was a large group of rather boisterous children it was otherwise significantly less crowded and easier to visit than Versailles had been only a few days earlier.

Fontainebleau had the unmistakable touch of multiple successive owners who each had added to or torn down from the structure according to their whims, budget and needs while they were residents there, molding the castle to their personality and circumstances. During its history all the French sovereigns lived at the castle beginning in the XII century.

Fontainebleau is the only royal and imperial castle to have been continuously inhabited for seven centuries. Our visit provided us a unique view of French history, French art history and architecture. It was especially illuminating in the company of our well informed and enthusiastic English speaking guide as part of a private morning tour and well worth a return visit.

Average Duration of Visit A spokesperson for the attraction recommended a two to three hour visit. Ours lasted about that long and was just right. Had we remained in town longer we would have easily returned to explore the castle further.

Children Yes, of all ages.

Description We toured the castle in the company of Véronique Villalba, a licensed guide with patience and enthusiasm who brought the attraction to life during our brief time together and made us keen to return. About 40 percent of the structure was open to the public and 30 percent of that was open to unescorted (without a guide) visitors. From among the salient features we saw the Royal apartments, Renaissance Rooms, one of Marie Antoinette’s Boudoirs, Francis I Gallery, Galerie de Diane, Chapel of the Trinity, Chapelle basse Saint-Saturnin (only the upper level). We saw many of the masterpieces: The Duke of Orléans Commemorative Wedding Cabinet, Charlemagne in the Guise of Henry IV (in the Chapelle de la Trinité), The Royal Elephant (in the Galerie François Ier), Alexander Taming Bucephalus (in the Galerie François Ier), Odyssey Cabinet (in the Ancienne Chambre de la Reine), Beneman Commode (in la Nouvelle Chambre de la Reine), Marie Antoinette’s Bed, Napoleon’s Throne. Outside we walked through or caught a glimpse of its gardens and courtyards (sometimes from a distance): Cour Ovale, Cour de la Fontaine Cour d’Honneur, Cour des Offices, Grand Parterre (created by André Le Nôtre and Louis Le Vau and said to be Louis XIV’s greatest architectural achievement at Fontainebleau), Jardin Anglais, Jardin de Diane, Grotte des Pins, Pavillion de l’Étang, and Park.

Established In 1927, the castle opened as an attraction to the public.

Handicapped Access Wheelchairs were available.

Location In the heart of the town of the same name in the Seine-et-Marne Department (www.turisme77.co.uk and www.paris-whatelse.com) near Paris, France

Owned-Managed Ministere de la Culture et de la Communication (government of France)

Size The 46,500 square meter museum had 1,536 rooms, 130 acres of gardens and 130 employees.

Transportation From Paris we took a train to a nearby town and from there we made our way by car to Fontainebleau.

Restaurant The eatery served coffee and lunch, including salads.

Souvenir Shop A small shop sold books and souvenirs.

Tours In the summer there were tours in English daily.

Month of Visit May 2016

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Would You Visit This Attraction Again Yes

Overall Impression The first thing we liked about La Demeure du Parc, a boutique hotel in the heart of the village of Fontainebleau, France, was its nearness to Fontainebleau, the famed former royal castle. The boutique hotel was within convenient walking distance to the palace as well as the village’s bustling central district, which housed restaurants and shops.

We also liked the modern sunlit lobby with a glass roof and equally modern rooms with natural light, artistic touch, amenities, friendly staff and gourmet restaurant. Should we return to the area La Demeure du Parc would be at the top of our list.

Children Yes

Class of Accommodation Four Star Hotel

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi in the rooms and common areas.

General Manager Thierry Durand

Handicapped Access No

Length of Stay One night

Location In the historical center of Fontainebleau, in the Seine-et-Marne Department (www.turisme77.co.uk and www.paris-whatelse.com) of France

Managed SAS Hotel du Parc

Owned Nicole Ivassenko

Pets Allowed No

Size The 27-room 2000 square meter property was two stories tall and employed 24 staff.

Year Opened-Renovated The hotel first opened in a renovated historic building October 2015

Lobby and Common Areas The decorative style of the lobby and common areas was meant to be Contemporary and Elegant.

Bathroom My bathroom was spotless. It had a bathtub and a separate shower with a glass door. The toilet was in its own enclosure separated by a glass partition from the shower.

Room We each stayed in 41 square meter Deluxe Double rooms on opposite ends of the first floor, 103 and 107. They had modern décor and luxury amenities. Mine, perhaps because it had a long entry hall felt less spacious than it was. My travel partner’s had a furnished rooftop terrace facing the entrance courtyard. The only downside was that the restaurant entrance was immediately below his roof and the pungent kitchen odors rose to his terrace spooling the mood. Also, staff smoked during their breaks in that same space so that residual food and tobacco odors mingled in an unpleasant aroma.

Food and Restaurants La Table du Parc (6 rue d’Avon, 77300 Fontainebleau, France, +33 1 60 70 20 00, latableduparc.fr) was on the ground floor of the hotel, across from the lobby bar. It could accommodate up to 50 guests and served local gourmet cuisine. Like the hotel, it had opened its doors to the public for the first time October 2015. The interior had a contemporary design featuring wood floors, exposed wood beam on the ceiling, a large glass wall with a view to the hotel’s front courtyard and original hand painted chalk artwork by Camille Rouseau on the rear wall (a favorite). The tables were tablecloth covered and the dinner service was pretty.

Carmen Thelen, a German born French chef, and her colleague, Sophie de Bernardi, pastry chef, led a team of 12. The executive chef, Frédéric Vardon, was cofounder and chef of the Le 39V restaurant in Paris, as well as the quartet of Zinc bistros (Gennevilliers, Paris Opéra, Paris International Golf Club, Courchevel 1850). Prior to Chef Thelen’s arrival at La Table du Parc, she worked by his side at Le 39V in Paris, and Zinc des Neiges Courchevel 1850. The menu was designed to vary with the seasons, to take advantage of the freshest produce.

During our activity filled stay we had a tasting menu dinner and breakfast. Both were outstanding. Breakfast was a satisfying combination of buffet and a la carte options with deli meats, eggs, breads and pastries, fresh fruit, fresh juice, coffee, tea and hot chocolate.

The dinner dishes were refined, well prepared and presented artfully while the service was attentive and warm. For dinner we began with kalamata olive bites and lovely chilled cocktails. There were two types of bread while we waited for our meal. A palate teaser with individual servings of beet root, fish cream and duck terrine followed. There was Warm white asparagus with sabayon and citrus sauce and Marinated beef with vegetables. Next, my dinner partner had a smoky lamb dish and I had Saint Pierre fish (slightly overcooked, not a favorite). For dessert we had Grand Marnier Souffle with blood orange shavings and blood orange sauce, a memorable dish and a favorite. For post dessert there were almond clusters, diamond lemon bites and chocolate nibbles.

Amenities There was heating and air conditioning, complimentary WiFi, in room electronic safe, Courtesy Tray stocked with complimentary Nespresso and Kusmi Tea, mini bar, bathrobes and slippers, and hospitality products from Maison Fragonard. Bespoke services such as laundry, shoe repair, and alterations as well as baby cots and extra beds were available on request.

Facilities There was a gourmet restaurant and a bar on the ground floor.

Conference Facilities There was a 100 square meter meeting room with capacity for up to 80 people.

Other The hotel received the 2016 Biosphère Ecoutourisme, a label from United Nations, through the Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Seine et Marne.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Review May 2016

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Sometimes when the world seems out of balance a little indulgence can make things better, a least for a short while. Such was the case at the Restaurant le Meurice Alain Ducasse, where we had a satisfying gourmet lunch this spring. Outside the restaurant the touristy rue de Rivoli was noisy and busy with pedestrian and automobile traffic. Inside the low hum of fellow diners was the only sound and timid sunlight filtered through the salon’s large windows. We liked the dining room’s ornate décor, inspired by Salon de la Paix at the Château de Versailles, as well as the daytime view from the entrance across the rue de Rivoli to the Tuileries Garden. From our window side table we had a view of the pretty dining room.

As the gourmet dining scene has shifted in Paris and worldwide it has become ever more challenging to anticipate the quality of a fine dining meal. We appreciated the efforts of Jocelyn Herland, executive chef, and his staff to focus his culinary finesse on basic fresh ingredients. Frédéric Rouen, restaurant manager, and his staff ensured we had a pleasant experience. Our multi-course meal was well prepared, artfully presented and served with care and attention to detail. The memorable dining room, elegant setting and amenities and attentive and friendly service enhanced our experience. The next time we visit Paris lunch at Restaurant le Meurice Alain Ducasse will be on our wish list.

About the Pastry Chef Cédric Grolet was born and raised in Firminy, close to Saint-Étienne, France. After earning his degree in Pastry, Chocolates and Ice creams from Puy-en-Velay, he was awarded a vocational diploma at the well-known École Nationale Supérieure de la Pâtisserie at Yssingeaux. At Fauchon, he accompanied Christophe Adam and Benoit Couvrand to Beijing to train their new teams. On his return to Paris, he took on the coveted position of Research and Development at Fauchon, where he remained for five years. He joined Le Meurice as a sous-chef in 2011, before rising rapidly to his current position.

Chef de Cuisine A restaurant representative declined to identify one.

Executive Chef Jocelyn Herland under the supervision of Alain Ducasse who arrived at Le Meurice in September 2013.

Handicapped Access No

Head Sommelier Damien Azemar.

Location On the ground floor of the Hotel Le Meurice in the heart of Paris, France

Opened-Renovated The most recent renovation was May 2016.

Owned and Managed Dorchester Collection which was owned by the Brunei Investment Agency

Pastry Chef Cédric Grolet

Restaurant Manager Frédéric Rouen – As soon as he had completed his training, he decided to devote his career to Palace Hotels. After an internship at the Royal Club at Évian, he became an apprentice chef and then chef de rang at the Connaught Hotel, a Five Star venue in London at the time. He returned to France to work with Joël Robuchon at avenue Raymond Poincaré as an apprentice waiter, then as demichef de rang and eventually as chef de rang. When Alain Ducasse took over the management of the establishment in the summer of 1996 he invited him to join his team. In time Rouen became maître d’hôtel at restaurant Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée. In December 2007, he was named restaurant manager at Jules Verne. From there he moved to the Ritz, before becoming restaurant manager at le Meurice in 2012.

Size The 150 square meter restaurant could accommodate 50 guest with a staff compliment of 30 (estimated).

Type of Restaurant Fine dining striving to return back to basics “…to respect the rhythm of the seasons, when the product is at its best.”

About the Executive Chef Born in Auvergne, France, Jocelyn Herland discovered the pleasure of eating at his grandparents side. In 1990, he earned his vocational training certificate (CAP) in cooking. Later he earned a pastry certificate (CAP), followed by a professional baccalauréat. He worked at the Clos de Longchamp, first in the dining room with Francis Coulon, then in the kitchens with Jean-Marie Meulien. After fulfilling his military service obligations, he worked at La Table du Marché with Christophe Leroy. In 1997, he became chef de partie at Le 59, Alain Ducasse’s restaurant on avenue Poincaré in Paris. In 2000, he moved to the Restaurant Opéra at the Hotel Intercontinental in Paris, followed by the Royal Monceau in the same city. In December 2003, he joined Christophe Moret at the Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée restaurant first as sous-chef, then chef adjoint. Later Ducasse offered him the head chef position of Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester for its opening in London November 2007. The restaurant received three Michelin stars in 2010. In January 2016, he became executive chef in the kitchens of the Hôtel Le Meurice.

Decor-Ambiance Philippe Starck worked on the décor of the dining room in 2007 and in again in May 2016, striving for “romantic elegance and a refined timeless style.” The original interior designers of the dining room were inspired by the Salon de la Paix at the Château de Versailles, featuring antique mirrors, crystal chandeliers, bronzes, marble walls, tile floors, and wall and ceiling frescoes. The 2016 updates included a fresh vegetable and fruit display in the center; comfortable Knoll Armchairs; a re-edition of the Tulip d’Eero Saarinen model in white leather; an original Murano glass sculpture by Aristide Najean; bronze and stainless steel screens on the inside of which there was a transparent geometric mosaic composed of messages, photos and sketches as well as pink copper items; and a faux fire in the fireplace. At the table there were crisp linen napkins to match the tablecloth, silverware, and crystal ware, including refined service items such as a silver bottled water holder. There was a convenient small footstool for personal items.

Meal We had a six course menu. It began with a glass of 2010 Louis Roederer rose champagne and Maquereau Racines au gros sel with Asian caviar served in a bowl with decorative black rocks at the bottom. It had a stout fish flavor (not a favorite). We liked the steamed vegetable starter. It was sourced in Normandy and Versailles and consisted of onions, beets, carrots, artichoke, potatoes, and turnips served with an olive dip. We were able to choose from country, rye and baguette breads. The baguette was slightly warm when it arrived at our table. There was salted and unsalted Normandy butter.

My lunch partner had Pate chaud de pintade au chou followed by Homard, topinambours, prepared with pig ears and powdered hibiscus. Then he had Volaille, morilles a chicken, mushroom and wild garlic dish followed by a cheese course.

For me, there were Langoutines roties. Then there was Bar, agrumes, fenouil, a fish dish with citrus and fragrant fennel. Agneau, artichauts, citron was next. The lamb dish was served with artichoke and a tasty lamb ball (a favorite). It was followed by a cheese course.

There were some 20 cheese on the cheese cart. I had Comté, Epoisse and Munster. My companion had a similar selection and Roquefort. Our cheeses were served with a small side salad with a creamy dressing as well as black olive brioche bread (a favorite), figs, nuts and prunes. A staff member replaced our lunch napkins with smaller dessert napkins at the end of the cheese course.

The menu concluded with two excellent desserts, Chocolat de notre Manufacture with chocolate from the Alain Ducasse chocolate Paris shop (a favorite) for me, and Vacherin aux agrumes for him. My chocolate dessert was served with a side dish souffle and his was served with an exceptional almond cookie.

After dessert there were Fruits et sorbets and Mignardises. We sampled the strawberry sorbet with fresh blueberries and the mango with fresh mango slices. My meal was accompanied by a 2014 Alsance grand cru Muenchberg Domaine Ostertag and a 2011 Nuits-Saint-Georges Domaine G. Julien, supple and smokey with hazelnut and dark cherry undertones. The wine specialist paired a 2012 Hermitage Domaine du Colombier and 2011 Suisse Humagne Domaine C. Abbet with his meal. The wine expert’s recommendations and insights were a good complement to the meal.

Special Menus The restaurant offered three Lunch Menu options: two courses for 85 euros, three courses for 110 euros, and four courses for 130 euros. There was also a six course Collection Menu for 380 euros. Prices did not include beverages.

Other At the time of our visit the restaurant had two stars in the Michelin Guide.

Date of Review May 2016

Number of Visits One

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Staff were staff attentive and pleasant. The service was outstanding. We never had empty glasses or suffer any neglect during the meal service.

Would You Dine Eat There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression When I think back to our two night stay at Le Domaine d’Ablon in Normandy, France the scents of the fireplace and Bulgari White Tea toiletries from our charming renovated XVI century cottage are the first memories that pop into my mind. The mix of a clean homey setting with historic and regional authenticity, sophisticated touches and an emphasis on fresh produce, gourmet and homemade products was appealing and would draw me back in a heartbeat.

During our stay, Christophe Delaune, the owner, and the property were so intimately linked I do not conceive of one without the other. Under his watchful eye, the vestiges of the two-bedroom cottage where we stayed had been lovingly rebuilt using antique materials while conforming to modern standards of comfort. The former successful business executive was exacting, punctual, ambitious, knowledgeable, and dedicated to the pursuit of perfection within the luxury and gourmet bed and breakfast with an authentic historic Normandy theme.

Advance planning was required to enjoy the best the tiny property had to offer. For example, to dine in it was necessary to place our dinner order in the morning. In the same vein, booking an onsite massage and selecting breakfast deli options required a day’s notice. Any inconvenience that might have aroused was easily overcome by the many attractive features of Le Domaine d’Ablon. Examples of those included the high standard of construction; top quality food and products on offer, many of them homemade (such as outstanding honey for breakfast) and prepared by the property’s dedicated chef and baker; the owner’s knowledge and willingness to advise us about the environs; conventional, herb and vegetable and fruit gardens; and many details like high thread count embroidered fine linen, comfortable furnishings, and warm interior. Should we visit Ablon or Honfleur for leisure again Le Domaine d’Ablon will be our top choice.

Children Thee property welcomed children of all ages

Class of Accommodation Five Star bed and breakfast

Connectivity There was complimentary high speed WiFi in the cottage and common areas. Initially I had trouble connecting. At the owner’s suggestion I connected in the reception building and returned to the cottage. After that my connection remained steady.

General Manager Christophe Delaune

Handicapped Access Although the property welcomed handicapped guests it was necessary to cross uneven ground and grass to reach our cottage as well as other areas of the property. Inside our cottage, there were steps and steep wooden stairs difficult for someone with limited mobility to access.

Length of Stay Two nights

Location Within the Village of Ablon, about 190 kilometers from Paris and seven kilometers from Honfleur, in the Normandy region of France.

Managed Cottage Consulting

Owned Christophe Delaune

Pets Allowed Yes, it was a pet friendly property.

Size The four room property on five hectares had multiple buildings and employed five.

Year Opened-Renovated The property opened in October 2015

Lobby and Common Areas Initially our GPS led us down the wrong path and we had to call for directions. From the main two lane country road on which we arrived in Ablon we took a narrow one lane road down about a quarter mile to reach the property entrance. Two minutes later we spotted a sign with the property name which confirmed we had nearly arrived. Another sign marked the entrance and parking area. Christophe, clad in casual black clothes, welcomed us. After we parked our car he led us down a grassy cobbled path to our cottage in a golf cart. The two desk reception and library as well as our two-bedroom cottage were decorated in Norman style, featuring original art work in every room and the common areas, as well as antique furnishings.

Bathroom The fully renovated and spotless bathrooms were divided into a bathing room upstairs and two toilet rooms with sinks, one upstairs at the top of the staircase, and one downstairs behind the fireplace. The bathing room was accessible by crossing the first and second bedrooms and by climbing a steep wood staircase from the ground floor. It housed a clawfoot bathtub, a cloth stool, a shower with frosted glass doors, and a white ceramic sink on a natural black stone base set atop a wood cabinet. A hexagonal shaped framed mirror hung above the sink. In the corner next to a rectangular window there was a doorless linen closet with towels, vanity kit, and slippers across from a small doorless closet with hanging bathrobes, a vanity mirror and extra toiletries.

Room We stayed in La Petite Chaumière, a spacious 130 square meter two bedroom two story non smoking cottage with a private terrace and 2,000 square meter garden. The carefully restored original building dated back to the XVI century. To reach it we walked from the nearby covered parking area down an uneven grass and stone path. Scented flowers grew on vines and bushes around the facade and garden area adjacent to the entrance.

Inside the old building had been lovingly restored with original materials and an eye toward comfort and modern conveniences. The cottage had two main sections. Downstairs there was a living room with a guest bathroom, and a kitchen. Two staircases led to the second story sleeping quarters with two bedrooms and a divided bathroom. Elements included exposed wood beams, terrazzo floors downstairs and polished wood floors upstairs, original art, fresh flowers in the living area, coffee table books, recessed lights and small lamps, embroidered duvets, and branded leather coasters and bottle holders on the night tables. Lighting was from sunlight during the day and dim lamps at night. The temperature was controlled via an automatic central heating system. It was chilly within the cottage during our spring visit, especially downstairs, which made us appreciate the fireplace. Upstairs it was slightly warmer. The beds had thick white duvets with the property logo embroidered on them and two feather pillows each as well as a wool throw blanket.

From the ground floor we could enter the cottage through doors on the side, living room, or kitchen. The salient feature of the ground floor was its oversize open fireplace and comfortable living space. In the center of the living area there was a rectangular wood table with a vase of fresh flowers, a wood bowl and a glass covered cake stand. There were also two cloth benches and a cloth loveseat. Across the room from the loveseat there was a cloth armchair next to an upright lamp and a basket full of wood for the fire. Behind the benches there was a cloth sofa with an Italian wool throw perpendicular to a wood desk. A telephone and a lamp sat atop the desk. A wood cabinet across the room from the sofa housed books, DVDs, Samsung flatscreen television, and DVD player.

The kitchen housed a wood trestle table with matching benches on either side as well as armless wood and metal end chairs. It had cookware, dinnerware, and glassware as well as wood wine rack, cutting board marble block table, wood dinnerware cabinet, LacornFé five burner gas stove and oven, refrigerator freezer, Hitachi microwave oven, and mini Proline dishwasher at the bottom of the refrigerator. There was also toaster, hot water pitcher, Nespresso machine, and coffee maker.

Behind the living area a door led to an interior covered nook with potted plants and a side door to the property herb garden. On the opposite side a single staircase led to a wood door and the first floor bedrooms. The upstairs walls were pitched, making it necessary to watch my step when walking around to avoid bumping my head. Immediately past the door there was a terracotta floor and a small foyer with closet space on one side and half a bathroom (toilet and sink) on the other. Past it a small bedroom had two single beds with a shared wood night table and a lamp. Across the room there was a gray love seat. A single window faced the garden path and garden.

A slightly larger door than the one at the top of the stairs opened onto the master bedroom, which was home to a queen bed. A rectangular window had views of the herb garden and the fruit and vegetable garden behind it. There was a cloth armchair behind the bedroom door. Another wood door led to a foyer with a wood cabinet. It had a window with a view to the front of the cottage and the garden. There was also a steep wood staircase leading down to the ground floor. The entrance to the bathing room was in the foyer.

Food During our stay, breakfast and dinner served in our cottage were available. Le Domaine d’Ablon served all local products. Vegetables, fresh eggs and fruits were sourced from the property’s organic garden. We enjoyed the artisan meals served in our cottage with branded tablecloth service and Christofle cutlery. It was necessary to place our dinner order in the morning from the property’s menu. We emailed asking what for descriptions of the Domaine d’Ablon and dessert of the day. Although they replied quickly we had already left. By the time we arrived at the property it was too late to make a choice. They had ordered one of each on our behalf.

For dinner I ordered the Camembert and ham tartelette and the vegetable main course as well as a side salad (lettuce and chives). My travel partner ordered scallops for a starter and an escalope dish with a side salad (lettuce and chives). Both tasted fresh and were well presented.

For breakfast we had the regular set menu: fresh squeezed orange juice, hot beverages (coffee and homemade hot chocolate), two pain au chocolat and two croissant, two mini cakes of the day (pistachio and cherry and chocolate), hot toast in a basket, Borderie unflavored yogurt and butter (stamped with the property logo), homemade orange marmalade and jams (plum, blackberry, apricot and strawberry), homemade chocolate and hazelnut spread, and delicious thick natural honey from the property hives. The second night we had a cheese plate with about 12 mild cheese varieties (one portion for each), apple compote, cherry tomatoes, radishes, two types of bread and nut and date crackers. We sampled a rose cider with it. We enjoyed everything we ate while at the property. The food tasted well and was fresh.

Amenities There were individual size Bulgari White Tea toiletries: soap in the bathrooms, refresher towels, shampoo, conditioner, body wash and body lotion, and Green Tea tea bags for the bathtub. There were also cotton bathrobes, slippers, complimentary WiFi, coffee capsules, tea and herbal tea, complimentary soft drinks and bottled water (one glass bottle each of Evian, Perrier). There were hair dryer, electronic safe, umbrella, iPod charger cable, HD TV screen, DVD player (guests could borrow DVDs from 5,000 movie library in the main building), and iPad on loan from reception, if needed. Guests had access to in room dining with meals prepared by a private chef. There were also delicious welcome macarons (one each of pistachio, vanilla, praline and lemon) and bite size gourmet chocolates made by a property owned chocolate shop in Honfleur. The second day there were new macaron flavors (strawberry, chocolate, praline and vanilla, and mango).

With advance notice of 15 minutes the property offered assistance with luggage. During the raining season rubber boots were available for guests who wanted to visit the surrounding area on foot. Also listed in the room folder were complimentary use of mountain bicycle and electrical bicycle, sport coach, access to the property’s organic kitchen garden, and assistance booking private tours and exclusive activities such as cooking classes.

Facilities Herb and fruit and vegetable gardens and main building reception and library.

Other In the background, I could hear birdsong and sometimes motor sounds. I had a combination of Swedish and Thai massage with Fonsine with grapeseed and carrot oil. She brought a heating pad and music and it was relaxing. Should I return I would look forward to another massage.

The owner had major expansion plans for the property within the following two years, including the addition of a spa, swimming pool, fitness center, home theater, business center for up to 30 people, and cottage with features for handicapped guests.

Service Our cottage was serviced once daily. If we needed anything while we were in the cottage all we had to do was pick up the desk phone and dial to reach the owner’s mobile phone. He was well informed about the area. When we mentioned our plans to visit Honfleur he volunteered dinning and other suggestions, which were welcome and helpful.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Review May 2016

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression The first time were went to Rech, part of the multinational Alain Ducasse culinary portfolio, we had a most pleasant lunch. On our return visit we had an equally delightful dinner. The modern understated yet warm décor with blond woods and a convivial ambiance were a good match for the well prepared tasty meal, aesthetically pleasing presentation, and friendly and efficient bilingual service.

Although we were the first to arrive the two room upstairs dining section filled up as the evening wore on. Yet we never lacked for anything at our table. Attentive eyes glanced by en route to the second room, and at the most discrete indication from us someone would immediately attend to our request. The table side dish preparation, including fish deboning, enhanced the experience.

Generous portions and an over ambitious order made it impossible for us to eat everything. However, we savored every bite we could finish. Although we liked most everything, we especially enjoyed the Grey mullet carpaccio with sea urchin, one of the restaurant’s signature dishes, the Meuniere style sole main, Camembert cheese, and XL vanilla eclair. We look forward to a return visit to Rech for lunch or dinner.

About the Executive Chef In January 2015, Damien Leroux joined Rech as chef de cuisine. Perhaps because he came from a family of restaurant owners, he developed a love of cuisine at a young age. At 16, chef Bruno Cirino from L’Hotellerie Jerome introduced him to gastronomy. He joined the team of Louis XV in Monaco where he worked for three years with Franck Cerutti. He rapidly adopted the philosophy of la cuisine de l’essentiel based on respect of produce.

Executive Chef Damien Leroux

Handicapped Access Handicapped guests were invited to dine on the ground floor.

Head Sommelier Florian Lemercier, executive sommelier, worked closely with Gerard Margeon, head sommelier of Alain Ducasse restaurants.

Location On a busy avenue in the upscale seventeenth arrondissement in Paris.

Manager Eric Mercier, a warm and welcoming host, had been at the restaurant since 2008. Prior to working at Rech, he earned his culinary badges with Gaston Lenotre, Alain Passard and Joel Robuchon at the brasserie Relais du Parc where he met Alain Ducasse. He is an avid fan of history and culture.

Opened-Renovated The restaurant was established in 1925 by Adrien Rech. The most recent major renovation, by Marie Deroudilhe, an architect, occurred in September 2012. Her goal was to bring “freshness and modern accents while keeping the original identity of the place.” The downstairs area had been renovated to match the elegant upstairs décor since our previous visit.

Owned and managed Alain Ducasse took over ownership and management of the well known restaurant in 2007. As head of the eponymous restaurant management company Alain Ducasse Enterprise he led three restaurants each awarded three Michelin stars in Monaco (Alain Ducasse à l’Hotel de Paris), Paris (Le Meurice Alain Ducasse) and London (Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester). A native of the Landes region in the southwest of France, he had dedicated thirty years to being a chef, restaurateur, hotelier and teacher. His company owned or managed 24 restaurants in eight countries, a publishing house, Ducasse pastry and culinary arts schools, in France, the Philippines and Brazil, and a hotel chain of 500 hotels in France.

Pastry Chef Vincent Lemains

Size The two story 120 square meter restaurant was able to accommodate 80 guests and employed 20 people.

Type of Restaurant French seafood

Decor The restaurant design was meant to remind dinners of a coastal setting within a “seaside chic atmosphere.” There were fiber reed plates signed by Shinichiro Ogata and the framed fish artwork was hand painted by Jean-Pierre Guilleron with an Asian stamp. Wood floors and blonde wood accents blended well with the white walls to create a warm ambiance. Accents were subtle such as comfortable tan armchairs, shaded lamps, matching tablecloths, silver cutlery, and pretty dinnerware.

Cellars Wine And Alcoholic Beverage Selection There were 150 red and white wine references sourced from “respectful and responsible” French vineyards. They included Chablis, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, as well as Saint-Romain, Bouzeron or Maranges.

The restaurant offered wines by the glass, two half glasses and in 45 centiliter half carafes, as defined by Gerard Margeon for Alain Ducasse Restaurants. Rech had a collection of absinthe and beverages flavored with aniseed.

Special Menus For lunch there was a three course menu which changed on Tuesdays and cost 44 euros. For diner there was a four course seasonal menu for 54 euros. A five course seasonal Signature Menu was available at lunch and dinner for 76 euros.

Meal While sipping from a glass of chilled Pommery champagne served in an hollow stem flute we browsed the seafood menu in English. We skipped over the single chicken from the Landes region and one beef fillet dishes, focusing on seafood and signature dishes instead. With the friendly staff’s assistance, Eric Mercier was especially helpful, we made our selections, inviting the sommelier who wore a distinctive leather apron to pair wines as he saw fit. We had two choices of bread: baguette seaweed and cereal. We began with a warm mussel dish (a favorite). The server poured warm bouillon atop morsels of mussel. It was accompanied by a savory toast prepared at the kitchen with seaweed butter.

My lunch partner had an elegant and moist Grey mullet carpaccio with sea urchin, one of the restaurant’s signature dishes and our favorite starter. It was served with a Muscadet wine from a magnum bottle. I had the Refreshed crab claws, mango and radish dish. The crunchy and extra mild dish was served with a Saint Saphorin wine.

For a main we both tried the Meuniere style sole with potatoes from Noirmoutier. It had a slightly rubbery texture and a lovely flavor. It came with mashed truffled potatoes (a favorite) prepared with chunks of truffle and a side salad. Despite the mashed potatoes’ bold flavor there was harmony in the dish. It was served with a Condrieu – Faury, a crisp and cleansing wine.

The Camembert cheese was ripe, gooey and delicious. There were baguette slices in a metal breadbasket.

We sampled three desserts: Mr. Rech: hazelnut ice cream and hot chocolate sauce made in the Alain Ducasse chocolate factory in Paris, one of the signature dishes; French toast of Pastis d’Amelie, sea salt caramel ice cream; and an XL vanilla eclair filled with Chantilly cream (rather than the more common pastry cream). The cream itself had a well rounded vanilla flavor. While my dinner partner fell in love with the eclair my favorite part of dessert was the chocolate sauce which I scooped up with a spoon. For post dessert nibbles to accompany the espresso there were fragrant chartreuse marshmallows, two mini financiers and two crunchy milk chocolate bites. We had Jurancon wine with dessert.

Other In February 2014 Rech received one Michelin star.

Date of Review November 2014

Number of Visits Two

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our English speaking staff were attentive, friendly and willing to make recommendations at our request.

Would You Dine Eat There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Previous Review 2013

Overall Impression While we had dined well at the same venue a number of times in the past that was our first meal since Chef Yannick Alleno had taken the reigns of the newly named Alleno Paris. Our multi course tasting menu was a most pleasant surprise.

Lunch was a blend of classical French cuisine yet modern at the same time. From the Krug by the glass to the final bite of sweets at the end the meal was a success. Delicious, refined and beautifully presented dishes paired with attentive, warm and detail oriented service matched the elegant setting in a historic building steps away from the famous Champs Elysees.

The chef’s enthusiastic back to basics sauce centered culinary style was simultaneously rewarding and refreshing. Each dish was a journey of discovery far enough from the norm to be intriguing yet still close enough to our zone of comfort to be enjoyable and fun. We congratulate him and his team on their success, and look forward to following them in the new restaurant at the Ledoyen Pavillon.

About The Executive Chef Yannick Alleno started his career at the Royal Monceau, working with Gabriel Biscay before joining the Hotel Sofitel Sevres and working with chefs Roland Durand and Martial Henguehard. Later he worked at Drouant with Chef Louis Grondard before moving on to run the Scribe kitchens. In 1999, he earned his first Michelin star, and in 2002 he earned a second Michelin star. In 2003, the Hotel Le Meurice entrusted him the chef position. While there in 2004, he received a second Michelin star, and by 2007 he received a third star.

In 2008, he established the Group Yannick Alleno “to offer his expertise to hoteliers and food professionals.” At the time of this writing he managed food and beverage services at Cheval Blanc, Courchevel, at the Royal Mansour in Marrakech and at the One&Only The Plam in Dubai; and he promoted French art de vivre with his Stay concept at the Shangri-La in Beijing, in the 101 tower in Taipei and at the Hotel Sofitel Le Faubourg in Paris. He also launched Yam magazine for trade professionals.

In 2008, he launched Terroir Parisien to highlight the work of the Ile-de-France producers, products and recipes. After his departure from Le Meurice in January 2013, he worked at the 1947, his laboratory in Courchevel at Cheval Blanc, and started new work on sauces, which he considered the DNA of French cuisine.

In the summer of 2014, he took over the Pavillon Ledoyen renaming it Alleno Paris, Carré des Champs-Elysées. The following year he was named chef of the year 2015 by the Gault&Millau and chef of the year by Andrew Harper in the United States.

Chef De Cuisine Nicolas Le Tirrand

Executive Chef Yannick Alleno

Handicapped Access No, the only access to the second floor dining room was up a staircase.

Head Sommelier Vincent Javaux

Location On a side street perpendicular to the Champs Elysees across the street from the Petit Palais. There was easy access from the Champs Elysees, especially on foot.

Managed Yannick Alleno took over the Pavillon Ledoyen on July 2014.

Opened-Renovated Established in 1792 by Pierre Ledoyen, the restaurant’s most recent restyling updates were of the dining room in August 2014. A bar was opened in March 2015. Further renovations were planned for 2015.

Owned The city of Paris owned the building which was leased to restaurant owners Florence Cane and Yannick Alleno.

Pastry Chef Damien Cassart

Restaurant Manager Jean-Marie Tranchet, director of the Pavillon Ledoyen

Size The 120 square meter dining room was able to welcome 40 guests. There were 80 staff shared with the special events venues housed in the same building.

Type Of Restaurant French cuisine

Cellars Wine And Alcoholic Beverage Selection The restaurant was in the process of building a new wine cellar following the loss of its previous cellar as a result of the former chef’s departure. The new wine list, while thin, offered a variety of French options, and a few wines by the glass including Krug champagne.

Special Menus There was a three course fixed price Lunch Menu for 135 euros. The restaurant also offered a six course set price menu for 275 euros and a nine course Michelin Menu for 380 euros.

Meal We began our meal with the usual chilled bubbly accompanied by three palate teasers. First it was egg whites with gingerbread. Then we had a morsel of beetroot and mushroom. The final one was a mushroom pastry with curry flavor. We had a choice of salted and unsalted butter, and three types of bread: olive, baby baguette and cereal.

Our menu: Salinites, Jus de courge rotie en fine gelee crème noix de muscade; Pain de brochet brioche extrait de champignon coraille; Moules de bouchot au jus extrait de cabillaud pommes voilees; Langoustine rotie sauce foisonnee a l’huile d’olive condimente; Turbot en troncon de nos cotes roti a l’os a moelle artichaut camus au gratin au parmesan; Boeuf Wagyu Gunma persille 4 planche de ravioles croustillantes olives et tomate verte confiturees; Chariot de fromage frais et affines salade d’aromatiques; Touches sucrees; Perles d’orange fleurees de cannelle ecume et petites arlettes; Ananas en pavlova au citron coques de meringue legere aux pralines roses; fuseau croustillant au chocolat et caramel truffe blanche d’Alba a la fleur de sel; and Palet de crème tendre au chocolat noir glace a la vanille bourbon.

We started with heavily distilled butternut squash with butternut seeds, cream and nutmeg. It had honey tones in the gelee style butternut dish and a strong nutmeg flavor. There was pike that reminded us of a souffle dish with a thicker density. We had lobster coral, melt in your mouth perfectly cooked muscles from Saint Michel, potatoes from central France, and shellfish juice chips. We tried langoustine with white truffle shavings. There was turbot with a kind of surf and turf artichokes and parmesan cheese “beefy” sauce and a large artichoke heart. Next there was tender Wagyu beef served with crisps and green tomato and olive jam sauce that complimented the beef well. It was a favorite among favorites. Then, we were served a pretty and flavorful micro greens salad with vinaigrette dressing. From the cheese cart we had four types of cheese.

A dish of slightly bitter and firm aloe vera with a sugar crunch followed the cheese course as a palate cleanser. It was accompanied by a lovely baked apple beignet with confectioner’s sugar. It was well balanced in flavor and texture, lightly sweet and crunchy. I had a pineapple with lemon and meringue dish while my lunch partner had orange pearls with cinnamon atop a foam foundation. My partner had a chocolate with salted caramel and Alba white truffle dish. I had a cream and dark chocolate dessert made with Guarana chocolate from Honduras and served with vanilla bourbon ice cream. For post dessert there was a Guinness beer tart and chocolate truffles.

We began with Champagne Veuve Clicquot Rose 2004 and Champagne Krug Grande Cuvee 2011. To accompany our courses the staff selected the following wines: Bellet Le Clos, Clos Saint Vincent 2013; Meursault, Domane Jean Mac Boillot 2011; Margaux, Confidences de Prieure Lichine 2010; Cotes du Jura Les Champs Rouges, Julien Labet 2012; and Sauternes, Chateau Rieussec 2007.

Other The restaurant received three Michelin stars by the Michelin Guide in February 2015.  There were meeting rooms for private events and valet parking available.

Date Of Most Recent Review November 2014

Dates Of Previous Reviews We reviewed a restaurant in this same location under a different name and management in 2005, 2007, 2010.

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service The service was attentive, warm and detail oriented. Our water glasses were refilled even during dessert which was memorable because at many other gourmet restaurants we have been to the water service ended with the salty courses of the meal.

Would You Dine There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression Attending a performance at the Palais Garnier was almost worth it just for the pleasure of the somewhat over the top venue alone. The iconic building itself was an attraction that drew locals and visitors alike. Many of them walked around with cameras and phones at the ready, wearing expressions of awe and appreciation.

We were there for the evening opening of Hansel and Gretel. The Orchestra of the Paris National Opera performed the Engelbert Humperkinck opera adapted from the Grimm brothers tale by the same name. From our ground level Orchestra seats (368 and 370), we had a clear view of the entire stage.

We liked the pretty music including several memorable arias. The staging was thought provoking. The performance developed at times simultaneously, at least in part, in more than one of the six sections in which the stage was divided for the show. The set up, while novel, was distracting and at times required so much concentration that it detracted from the experience. It was not to our liking. Having children actors in one part of the stage and adult actors playing the same children in another at the same time also made it confusing to know what was going on, and to understand the allegorical meaning of the vignettes in the two stages. Also notable were the bright costumes, especially the eye popping fuchsia sequined evening dress of the witch.

During the intermission, we strolled around the most beautiful areas, admiring the interior and observing the crowd. Many held champagne flutes or light snacks from the various vendors peppered throughout the lobby. The evening view of the long Avenue de l’Opera outside was a treat. When the chimes called for the restart of the performance more than a few seemed almost reticent to abandon their building browsing.

We thoroughly enjoyed another opera performance at the Palais Garnier. We would recommend the experience to friends who are fans of Paris and the Palais Garnier.

Children The Palais Garnier welcomed children three years of age and older.

Established-Renovated The Palais Garnier, designed by Charles Garnier, was established as a performance venue in 1875, when it was inaugurated. The facade was renovated in 2000. The most recent renovation of Le Grand foyer took place in 2004. There were plans for additional renovations.

Handicapped Access According to a spokesperson, the building offered wheelchair access, ramps, elevators, and Braille.

Location In the city’s ninth arrondissement

Number Of Employees The company employed 447 permanent staff.

Owned-Managed The Palais Garnier is one of two theaters of the Opera National de Paris, an EPIC (etablissement public a caractere industriel et commercial) non profit entity.

Pets Pets were not allowed in Opera National de Paris buildings.

Size The building’s interior space was 57,946 square meters. There was seating capacity for 2,054. The Palais Garnier welcomed 480,000 visitors per year.

Transportation The theater is in the heart of the city within easy reach by public and private transport.

Description The Hansel and Gretel performance started promptly at 8 pm. Based on the music of Engelbert Humperdinck, it was divided into a one hour first part, a thirty minute intermission, and a forty five minute final part. Peter was played by Jochen Schmeckenbecher, Gertrud by Irmgard Vilksmaier, Hansel by Andrea Hill, Gretel by Bernarda Bobro, Die Knusperbexe by Doris Lamprecht, Sandmannchen by Elodie Hache, and Taumannchen by Olga Seliverstova. The music was by the Orchestra of the Paris National Opera and the Childrens’ Chorus of the Paris National Opera.

Despite of what looked like a sold out show and long lines in certain parts of the building it was a pleasure to stroll around the Grand Staircase and sumptuous foyers. The Grand Foyer was designed by Garnier, an architect, to resemble a chateau with oversize windows, mirrors, sparkling mosaics and a gold background. The Palais Garnier was the thirteenth building to house the Paris Opera. The ceiling with music history scenes was painted by Paul Baudry. I especially liked the view of avenue de l’Opera from the Grand Foyer near a copy of a bust of Garnier.

A brightly colored Marc Chagall adorned the auditorium ceiling from which an eight ton crystal chandelier hung. The Italian style horseshoe shaped room, decorated in red and gold, housed 1,900 red velvet seats.

Restaurant Near the seating area there were bar vendors selling beverages including wine and champagne and snacks during the intermission. On one side of the Palais Garnier the building rented space to a vendor who ran a restaurant. There was no visible access to the restaurant from the interior of the building.

Souvenir Shop The souvenir shop at the Palais Garnier was run by a vendor.

Other The French translation of the German opera appeared at the top of the stage, requiring me to divide my attention between the parts of the stage where the performers were and the part where the translation appeared above them. Craning my neck that way through the evening caused it to tire. By the end of the performance I had a mild neck ache.

The orchestra sounds were loud and clear although at times it seemed to cover in part the voices of the singers. While the voice of the mother ran clear and true I had difficulty hearing Hansel over the orchestra.

There was a jump seat at the end of each row in the Orchestra level. This meant the rows grew by one seat on each end, leaving almost no space in what became a single continuous row from one side of the room to the other. It took away from the experience and made us wonder about the safety of such a seating arrangement in case the room had to be evacuated in an emergency.

The restroom and coatroom lines were long. The temperature within our Orchestra section was warm without a sweater (with a scarf) and somewhat cooler in the common areas.

Month And Date Of Visit November 2014

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Would You Visit This Attraction Again Yes