Overall Impression I loved Westhaven Retreat, a family owned and built boutique property in the South Island of New Zealand for its remote hilly location, coastal setting, beautiful views, luxury features and amenities, warm hospitality and intimate ambiance. In addition to its outstanding location the property’s semi isolation (my guide and I drove several hours from Nelson to reach it) was its greatest asset. The 320 hectares of private land were unspoiled and underdeveloped. This meant we had left behind all crowds, pollution and most undesirable manmade noises and smells. Instead we were surrounded by nature.

Guests and owners shared a lovingly erected two story main building with striking views. The ground floor and mezzanine were dedicated to guest accommodations and common areas, including a heated indoor pool and sauna. With the exception of a large library the top floor was reserved for the owners and their family, including two young children. By the time I left I had met all three generations. In these days of impersonal large hotels I particularly appreciated the property’s old style family hospitality.

My room, steps from the property entrance, was thoughtfully appointed and comfortable. My favorite feature was the hill and ocean view from my room and its covered porch. Because there was an area wide drought we were asked to be mindful of our water consumption. I especially enjoyed the private beach access and the Buggy Tour of the estate with Tomas Vratil, a knowledgeable nature enthusiast, and Bear, the aptly named family pet.

After my departure I learned that the multi-million dollar property was for sale. The existing owners hope whoever buys it will maintain it as an ongoing concern. I will recommend it to nature oriented friends and suggest they visit sooner rather than later. Should an opportunity to return present itself I would eagerly return.

Children Yes in low season with advance notice. There was a well behaved and quiet baby there during my stay.

Class of Accommodation Luxury Lodge

Connectivity WiFi was available throughout and cell reception, according to one of the family members, was excellent.

General Manager Monika Vratil

Handicapped Access Yes. There were ramps for disabled visitors throughout the lodge and the dining restroom was able to accommodate disabled guests.

Languages In addition to English they were able to accommodate German and Check speaking guests.

Length of Stay Two nights

Location The lodge was 168 kilometers or about three and a half hours by car from Nelson. The nearest airport was Takaka 64 kilometers and about 80 minutes drive away.

Managed Bruno and Monika Stompe managed the lodge. Monika and Tomas Vratil managed the farm.

Owned Bruno and Monika Stompe

Pets Allowed No

Size The seven room lodge had two floors. The ground floor housed guest rooms and common areas. The upper level was home to the owners. There was a library open to guests on the upper floor. The Westhaven peninsula had 320 hectares, including eight kilometers of coastline. Staff ranged from four to twelve. Other than the owners and their children the only staff person I saw was the chef.

Year Opened or Renovated The property was completed and opened to the public in December 2013.

Lobby and Common Areas There were local artworks from Collingwood and nearby throughout the lodge. Westhaven Retreat was hand built over 10 years solely by the family, featuring subtle decor, exposed timbers, soft color schemes and natural fibers. Many materials had been reused, such as old precious Rimu, harvested many years before the owners bought the property. Although situated prominently on a ridge line, it blended into its environment. The lodge was designed to harmonize with the views and environment.

Bathroom The rectangular shaped bathroom had twin sinks, a walk in shower with a glass door, and heated towel rack. On the opposite end from the entrance there was a screen covered window next to the toilet. The bathroom had a wood ceiling and floor to ceiling ceramic tile. Heating lamps in front of the shower were a cozy touch. There was a single bath towel, two hand towels and two face cloths.

Room I stayed in Lodge Room with veranda 4, which was approximately 250 square feet under roof. It was next to the stairs and across from the entrance and reception desk. The room was airy, sunlit and pleasant. The décor was subtle with an emphasis on the exterior and the view. It consisted of three main areas: sleeping space, bathroom and open air deck. The sweeping natural vistas from the sleeping room and deck were the room’s best feature.

It had high ceilings and was light filled during the day. I liked the smooth wood floors, comfortable bed (two twins together) set against a wood framed fiber wall. There were wood and glass night tables with a candle on each one on either side of the bed. There were fluffy white rugs on either side of the bed.

In front of the bed there was a built in wood desk facing an oversize window. Atop it there was a Panasonic iPod docking station, radio and CD player. A frameless moonscape photo hung on the far wall. Across from the bed there were twin bone colored leather armchairs and foot stools around a square wood table. There was a vase with white plastic flowers. A square mirror hung on the wall above them.

Recessed lights in the ceiling as well as two built-in wall lamps illuminated the space. The temperature could be controlled by opening the window and sliding glass door. There was also a wall heater beneath the window and next to the desk.

The oversize window looked onto a private partially covered porch with beautiful hill and ocean views. White shades could be rolled down for privacy or to keep the sunlight out. On the porch there was a square wood table, two wood armchairs with green cushions tied to the seat section of the chairs. On the other side of the porch there was a single wood lounge chair with a cushion. The porch floor was stone. There was a patch of grass and a purple flowering plant next to white railing. Wood dividers separated the porch from neighboring porches.

To the left of the entrance there was a walk-in closet and a rectangular shaped bathroom. The closet included a built-in mini bar with a hot beverage service, drawer full of coffee (Moccona) and several flavors of Dilmah tea from Sri Lanka. There was a fruit bowl with fresh apricot, strawberry, pear, nectarine and plum. There were also several wines available for purchase in a tiny refrigerator. There was an electronic safe, hanging and shelf space.

I sometimes heard voices when guests stopped to chat by reception. Sounds from the floor above filtered through, including footsteps and muffled voices.

Food and Restaurants All meals, except one lunch on the open terrace, were served in an indoor dining room with hill and ocean views. The chef, from Leipzig, Germany, was also a pastry chef.

Dinner from a four course set menu was served at 7 p.m. On the first night we had soup, mousse filled salmon roll, monk fish and a fruit and cream dessert. Breakfast was a cold buffet of four varieties of cereal in plastic dispensers, cut and uncut fruit, deli meat, cheeses, and homemade pastries. It was possible to order eggs made to order. There were also homemade jams and bread. I sampled a seeded soft bread, the quince jam and manuka honey. Breads, cakes and jams were homemade. The honey (a favorite) was harvested onsite by area beekeepers.

I was asked to make my lunch choice from a light menu at breakfast. The club sandwich I selected, served on the terrace under an umbrella for shade from the hot midday sun, was outstanding. I had blueberries and golden kiwi with it.

Dinner was a salty tomato soup, small salad with dumplings, veal cutlets with mashed potato puffs, bacon wrapped green beans, small carrots and a pastry berry and chocolate dessert. I had a fruit plate instead of dessert.

A property representative indicated, “We use fresh and local ingredients in our selection of food. Also catering for a wide variety of diets. When possible we supply organic fruit and vegetables.”

Amenities In my room there was complimentary bottled water, fruit bowl, and bite size chocolates. There were also two branded white cotton bathrobes and two sets of slippers. There were local wines in minibar refrigerator for sale. There were two brands of toiletries made in China. One was Kauri brand mouthwash, amenity kit and vanity kit. The other brand was Natural Earth, which included refillable plastic bottles of body gel, body lotion, shampoo and conditioner as well as vanity set, shower cap and soap.

Activities available, depending on the season and availability and requested in advance, were fishing, kayaking and farm tours.

There was a designated helicopter landing area a short walk from the lodge building.

There were yoga mats in the mezzanine function area, ping pong table and library with books and games. Relaxation Massage and Energy healing were available.

Facilities There was a dining area with bar, hydrotherapy spa, infrared sauna, library, treatment room and indoor swimming pool for guests.

Pool There was a 24-meter indoor infinity pool heated to 28 degrees.

Other To keep track of guests there was a sign-out and sign-in sheet. When we left the main building to explore the estate on our own the owners requested that we sign our name and the path we planned to follow. They asked that we list our return there as well. There were fire detectors.

Bear, a Maremma sheepdog, was the resident pet. One of the activities on offer during my visit was the Buggy Tour. As part of the tour Tomas, one of the family members, and Bear took me aboard a Cam An all terrain vehicle along some of the property tracks, explaining the outstanding features of the area’s wildlife and plants.

Wild West Coast highlights included: views of where the Whanganui Inlet meets the Tasman sea; a stop at the highest point of the farm, the 246 meter-high bluff with 360 degree views of the area; and the Nikau Forest and rock outcrops on the way to Turtle Bay Beach. Along the way Tomas shared his wealth of knowledge about local fauna and flora.

After my departure I learned that the property was on the market. After more than 20 years in hospitality the owners decided it was time to retire. When asked about it they responded by email via their daughter: “We endeavour to pass the guardianship of this very special Land and Lodge onto someone who sees its uniqueness as much as we do and hopes to continue to run it as a Lodge, so everyone can enjoy it.”

The manuka honey sold at the lodge was harvested from beehives on the Westhaven Peninsula as well as other farms nearby. It was slightly bitter and my favorite manuka honey from several I sampled during the trip.

The property engaged in wildlife conservation, protecting kiwis with ferret traps and rat traps. Recycling was standard wherever possible. They offered private transfers by TeslaX electric cars. According to the owners the lwas built with a very low carbon footprint and was very eco-friendly, featuring a state of the art wood boiler for hot water, pool and heaters throughout. The pool was nearly chemically free, treated with ultraviolet light.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Review February 2019

Reviewers

Photos and Article by Elena del Valle

Service The owners and chef were the only staff I met. They were attentive and helpful although available mainly at meal times. In between meals there was a buzzer at reception we could use to summon one of the family members from their home on the second story of the building. The reception desk was unmanned. My room was serviced daily.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression On my first trip to New Zealand Silverpine, a small luxury retreat surrounded by 30,000 acres of mountain grazing land, stood out. It was on a hill facing north toward Lake Hawea in the South Island. What I most remember is the mesmerizing unobstructed lake view from my room as well as some of the common areas. Nearly everything I saw from my room was free of manmade structures. The absence of lights on the horizon and the quiet (although the resident dog barked occasionally there were no mechanical sounds) made it seem serene and remote. I felt privileged to be there surrounded by so much natural beauty.

As soon as I opened the car door Ridge, a 52 kilo huntway sheep herding dog and the family pet, was by my side wagging his tail. The 15 month old charmed me instantly. There was something endearing about his unguarded stance and his eager gaze. I had to be careful because without meaning to he could knock me down in an attempt to play. I often saw him sitting on the grass outside my room or in the garden by the dining room. One morning when I climbed up the hill behind the lodge he found me on my way back.

From the outside Silverpine looked like someone’s house. Inside it did too, and that was part of what I liked about the family built and owned property, its warm and intimate ambiance. The architectural style was pleasing with high ceilings and generous art filled common areas. My guestroom, while appointed for paid stays, was cozy. Wood and glass played off each other well in a sort of yin and yang. Soft sunlight filtered into the building and while it was hot outdoors indoors was cool and comfortable. Personal items in the library, including a small display of family heirlooms and hunting trophies, were a reminder it was someone’s home. The lack of some features (such as printed instructions) ubiquitous elsewhere as much as the existence of creature comforts was noteworthy.

Mike and Susan Yates, the owners, lived onsite in a private wing connected to the rest of the building via the dining room. Mike managed the property and Susan prepared breakfast and dinner. They were understated in their hosting style, authentic is the word that comes to mind. WiFi access was limited to the dining room by design. Like in a private home there were no numbers on the guestroom doors. There were no instructions or signage in my room or in the common areas. I felt almost like I was staying at the property of reclusive affluent friends of friends rather than at a lodge.

Thoughtful touches were evident throughout the house from the soft animal skin atop a pebble filled window side tub, dining room facing garden, and gourmet dark chocolate in my room to the cushy armchairs and sofas in the living room. And, often my eyes were drawn to the lake views.

Silverlodge was among my favorite properties on that trip for its splendid location with fantastic lake views, elegant design, tasty and well presented meals and low key hospitality. I would recommend it to friends who love nature, value serenity and gourmet dining, and appreciate being offline in their room.

Children The lodge welcomed children 12 and older.

Class of Accommodation Personalized luxury hosted retreat

Connectivity There was only WiFi in the dining room. Per the owner a speed test indicated download 20.34 Mbps (megabits per second); upload 12.35 Mbps. The only cellular coverage was WhatsApp.

General Manager Mike Yates

Handicapped Access One of the guestrooms had a bathroom with wheelchair access.

Languages In addition to English the owners were able to welcome guests in French.

Length of Stay Two nights

Location It was 100 kilometers from the property south to Queenstown.

Owned and Managed Mike and Susan Yates

Pets Allowed No, wild deer and sheep grazed nearby.

Size The single story property within 70 acres housed four guestrooms and employed three.

Year Opened-Renovated The property opened to the public as full service lodge in 2006. It was new looking. Everything in my room and the common areas appeared to be in working order (although there was only tepid water in my bathroom).

Lobby and Common Areas The owner described the décor as “eclectic – lodge leather meets minimalist meets the orient.” The architectural style was “themed on growing of and out of its surroundings.” Mike supplied the feature wood and stone from the forests near the couple’s previous home. Thick walls and changing roof pitches were included to reflect the nearby mountain flanks. There were high vaulted timber lined ceilings, natural schist stone and native timber floors. The doors and windows had natural finish wooden joinery. The carpets were woolen and the walls were of natural plaster. Mike explained that “When the architect saw the site he mused and told me ‘This is a huge landscape. We shall do nothing mean here.’ Not knowing what that meant, I commissioned him.” And the result was a structure that emphasized the view outside while maintaining a minimalist interior that remained warm and comfortable.

Bathroom There was a bathtub and a door-less shower in the 65 square foot bathroom. Sunlight from a skylight flooded the bathroom during the day.

Room I stayed in Room 3, a 270 square foot room with a small covered terrace facing the lawn and beyond it Lake Hawea. It was furnished with a comfortable Superking bed, side tables, wardrobe, console writing desk, armchair, ottoman, window seat with sheepskin. Oversize spotless windows and French doors that opened to the terrace and lawn made it to easy to look out. As soon as dawn appeared I opened the curtains to enjoy the sunrise, leaving them open all day. Outside there were wooden steamer chairs and tables. They were adjacent to my neighbors patio furniture. So much so that as soon as I exited my room I encountered a couple on loungers, wine glasses and books in hand. They were polite, charming and considerate of my privacy. Noticing that they too opened their curtains before sunrise I waited until after breakfast to walk on the lawn past their room. The following afternoon new far less pleasant guests were assigned to that same room.

I especially liked the window side sheepskin spot. It was like being on the terrace and soaking in the scenery while remaining indoors. I kept meaning to sit at my patio table with a glass of wine, looking toward the horizon and forgetting the clock. It was the kind of place that beckoned appreciation and contemplation. Somehow my time at Silverpine flew by before I did. Should there be a next visit I hope to have at least one day to just relax at the property.

Food and Restaurants Susan prepared meals. Mike and Susan served them, in an unobtrusive manner, on a huge wood table, where guests were seated together. Both nights I shared the table with one couple. There were two very different couples, which affected the evening conversation as we were seated side by side. On the first night she served Buffalo mozzarella, prosciutto, roasted grapes, lettuce appetizer. For mains there was organic chicken with delicious sauce, boiled potatoes, green beans, eggplant. Dessert was rhubarb frangipani pastry with honey and chamomile ice cream. The pinot noir was dry, flavorful and light. Mike kept guest glasses replenished. I especially enjoyed the conversation on the first evening of a worldly, polite and charming couple. The second evening due to a newly arrived couple’s need to hog every subject dinner became a chore. There was music playing at mealtimes. Susan was attentive to guests meal preferences. For example, when she noticed I favored an item over another she accommodated her menu to suit my taste. That made me feel especially welcome.

Amenities In my room there was a complimentary 500 milliliter glass bottle of Antipode sparkling spring water. The artisan Hogarth single origin dark chocolate made in New Zealand Gran Blanco 66 percent from Peru, also in my room, was a favorite during the trip. Toiletries were of two kinds, Antipode hand and body wash by the sink, Trilogy botanical body wash in the shower and large bathtub shampoo and conditioner.

Facilities There was a living room, dining room and library.

Other Because the only connectivity was in the dining room guests were drawn there, making it challenging to check emails alone. We would all gravitate to the dining room before and after meals. In addition to checking emails we engaged in conversation. This meant in my room I was offline, free to relax, read and soak in the splendid view. Overall I spent more time chatting with other guests as well as the owners than I might have otherwise, a positive side effect.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Review February 2019

Reviewers

Photos and Article by Elena del Valle

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression What first drew my attention to Cabot Lodge is that it sits on the edge of the Fjordland National Park, described as one of New Zealand’s most beautiful parks. Built originally as a private home within the 2,000 acre Cathedral Peaks Station estate the lodge was lovingly restored, renovated and upgraded by newlyweds Breidi and Brad Alexander. The new property, it opened to the public in 2018, was one of the most remote stops in my off-the-beaten path Intrepid tour of the South Island.

A problem with our vehicle delayed my arrival into the evening. Since the owners lived off property it meant they had to remain at the lodge past the dinner service to wait for me. Despite the inconvenience they welcomed me with a cheerful demeanor and made me feel at home. It was a promising start. After a long day of travel, some of it uncertain and frustrating, arriving at the spotless and well appointed lodge was soothing and reassuring, significantly better than I had anticipated. Their attitude remained warm and accommodating throughout my stay. Thanks to their authentic hospitality and enthusiasm, and the lodge’s luxury amenities and intimate ambiance it was one of my favorite places on the trip.

The lodge’s architectural design and positioning meant that there were lake and mountain vistas from nearly every corner, including my room and my bathroom as well as the library and dining room in the common areas. There was more to the property that pretty views. In my few hours of down time I appreciated the many details not the least of which was the comfort and pleasant temperature of my room. Despite the outdoor chill at night I was toasty and during the heat of the day the indoor temperature remained cool. The serenity, day furniture and extras, including a working fireplace and flowers, made me want to linger to soak in the green and blue scenery beyond the oversize windows. The library too seemed an ideal place to relax or lounge away rainy day hours.

On the second night of my stay the owners, at the request of my tour guide, surprised me with delicious fresh crayfish served at the cocktail hour. Procuring it had been expensive and required special effort. The couple’s understated and generous gesture stood out in my mind although none of the guests made any remarks. I appreciated that Brad prepared meals from scratch using as many locally sourced products as possible.

I traveled a long way to Cabot Lodge to visit the Fjordland National Park. The plan was to embark on an extended helicopter ride to see as much as possible during my one day there. But in the park Mother Nature was cloaked in showers with gusty winds, causing the ride to be delayed multiple times. What I saw on the bumpy flight before it was cut short was majestic. I left longing to spend more days at Cabot Lodge and revisit the park. Should the opportunity present itself I would love to return. A favorite, I will recommend the family owned lodge to friends who appreciate customer centered boutique properties in an ecotourism destination.

Children The property welcomed guests 10 years and older. Guests booking the entire lodge were welcome to bring younger children.

Class of Accommodation Experiential Lodge

Connectivity The property had complimentary unlimited WiFi in all rooms and common areas.

Handicapped Access No, there were stairs and grass covered common areas.

Languages English

Length of Stay Two nights

Location Invercargill Airport was 142 kilometers or about one hour and 45 minutes from the property. Queenstown Airport was 163 kilometers or two hours from the property.

Owned and Managed Breidi and Brad Alexander owned and managed the lodge. Breidi’s parents, Cam and Wendy McDonald, owned Cathedral Peaks Station, the farm on which the lodge is located.

Year opened/renovated 2018

The Lodge was built in 1998 as a private home. The new owners renovated it in 2018 before opening it to guests. The structure of the property remained the same, but the furnishings and upholstery had been updated, including fresh carpets, drapes and cabinetry.

Pets Allowed No

Size The two story property had four guestrooms, including a two-bedroom suite, which could accommodate four persons. The interior space of the lodge was approximately 524 square meters (5,641 square feet) under roof. The lodge was within the 2,000 acre Cathedral Peaks Station estate comprised of farmland and several pine forest plantations. There were three staff at the lodge and three staff on Cathedral Peaks Station.

Lobby and Common Areas The lodge was comprised of five separate Pods linked by covered walkways, designed to ensure optimum views. The Pod concept offered intimacy and privacy although at times I found it easier to walk around the garden to bypass the library on my way to the kitchen. There were two patios facing Lake Manapouri and a central courtyard with alpine plantings incorporated into the paved steps. The intricate ceilings in the living rooms were made from Southland beech, milled 40 minutes from the property. The roofs were made of copper. The property was built largely from Hinuera stone from the North Island of New Zealand. There were four open fireplaces, in the dining room, library, outdoors in the central courtyard, and in the Pomona Suite.

In the library there were leather couches, day beds in direct line of the sun, and velvet lounge chairs in front of the fireplace. The owners selected the color scheme of “forest greens, lake blues, and tussock yellows to reflect the surroundings.”

They commissioned New Zealand artist Peter Beadle to paint a number of artworks of Fjordland. The artworks were in several rooms, including in the living and dining rooms, Pomona Suite and Cathedral Peaks Suite. There were also maps of the first recorded drawings of New Zealand, limited edition prints depicting indigenous culture and early Maori settlements.

Bathroom The most noteworthy feature of the rectangular bathroom was the view. From every corner of the sunlit space it was possible to look out at the green lawns in the back of the lodge and the scenery beyond. Light décor and a spotless interior made it inviting. The shower had glass doors, offering a view from within. A separate bathtub was adjacent to two windows.

Room I stayed in the smallest accommodations, the Pomona Deluxe Suite, a 41 square meter (approximately 441 square feet) room. It was named after its mountain outlook Pomona Island. Declared pest and predator free, it is one of the largest islands on Lake Manapouri. Kiwis had been released onto the island. The room was furnished for comfort and to take maximum advantage of the view. A large bed took up the central space across from the fireplace. There was a desk and chair next to the entrance, an armchair in one corner and a lounge space in opposite corner adjacent to the window. A walk in closet offered drawer and hanging space as well as an electronic safe, mini bar and hot beverage service.

Food and Restaurants Brad was the resident beekeeper and chef. Many of of the greens served at the lodge were grown on the property. Most of the ingredients for the meals were sourced locally whenever possible. The menu changed daily depending on guests preferences and product availability. Brad baked desserts from scratch.

Amenities On arrival guests receive a complimentary drink of their choice. Due to my tardy arrival I did not have a drink. My room was stocked with complimentary water, soft drinks, fresh fruit, a self serve hot beverage service and home baked toffee slices. There were bathrobes in the wardrobe, as well as locally made 50 milliliter toiletries (Aromotherapy Co range and Ritual), including body wash, hand soap, shampoo, conditioner, bath salts, and shower caps. The toiletries, made in New Zealand, were free from artificial colors, fragrance, harsh chemicals and had dyes with biodegradable formulations. All of the packaging was recyclable. The property returned partially used soaps to the manufacturer to be converted into bio-diesel and biodegradable industrial cleaners. None of their products was tested on animals. Their products were not genetically modified. There were also hairdryer, iron and electronic safe. There was a heated towel rack in the bathroom.

Property tours and beehive experiences were included in the room rate. A beehive experience was not on offer during my stay. In the evenings there were complimentary drinks and snacks. In the morning Brad prepared a complimentary cooked and continental breakfast, including eggs, bacon, grilled tomatoes and mushrooms, or blueberry pancakes. There was a small buffet with bircher muesli, fresh fruit, yogurt and nuts. In the rooms there were smart TVs connected to Netflix.

Facilities There was a library and a dining room with an adjacent open kitchen.

Other The name Cabot was from Frank and Anne Cabot of New York, who built the property after visiting the owners of Cathedral family farm over 20 years earlier. The Cabots had heard about Wendy’s garden at Breidi’s childhood home and wanted to visit. After spending the afternoon in the garden and touring the farm they said they never wanted to leave. In time they built the property as a holiday home, returning to summer in Manapouri every year. Following Frank’s passing, the McDonald family purchased the Lodge as it was located in the center of their family farm. The property remained empty until Cam and Wendy’s youngest daughter and her husband Brad left their corporate jobs in Auckland to transform the family home into a lodge, named in honor of Frank and Anne.

The lodge is within a working 2,000 acre farm with 4,500 sheep, 2,000 deer, 500 cattle and 75 beehives (as well as a miniature pony and three pet lambs). On request the owners provided a golf car visit of the estate for a ground level view of a New Zealand farming experience. Thanks to its location bordering the Fiordland National Park (a World Heritage Park) guests could access a private jetty on the Waiau River overlooking the park. Three of New Zealand’s designated Great Walks and some 50 other hikes as well as Doubtful Sound, Milford Sound, Lake Manapouri and Lake Te Anau are near the lodge.

In an effort to be net carbon zero, the owners undertook considerable tree planting on the property to offset their activities. The Te Anau-Manapouri Airport on the boundary of the property (minutes from the lodge) could accommodate small aircraft and private jets.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Review February 2019

Reviewers

Photos and Article by

Service The owners were the only staff I met. They were friendly, well informed, helpful and welcoming. Everything was new looking, odor free and in working order.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression I enjoyed my stay in the Merivale Manor & Apartments in Merivale, a leafy suburb of Christchurch, New Zealand because my accommodations were spacious and comfortable, the staff were friendly and helpful; and the property was close to the Central Business District and closer still to a variety of Merivale shops and restaurants. It was also conveniently located en route to the airport for my predawn departure.

The 100-meter two-bedroom Te Wepu Suite in the Merivale Manor historic building offered more than enough space for me. After changing hotels every night or two during an 18-day off the beaten track itinerary of the South Island Christchurch was my final stopover before heading home. The roominess and suite amenities allowed me to relax a bit before embarking on the long series of flights home. The suite had a kitchen with a full size refrigerator and most basic items, allowing me to cook my own breakfast and meals when I wanted. There was a well stocked grocery store within walking distance, where I bought supplies. I liked that there were several dining options nearby.

I liked to sit at the dining room table to gaze at the comings and goings in front of the property and parking lot, watch television, go online or talk on the landline phone. I could also sit in the living room as the kitchen, dining and living spaces were in a single room. When I had company we were able to chat in the living room instead of the bedroom, where my suitcases sat unmade.

I slept in the back bedroom, where I used the second bed to spread out and repack my backs for the long return journey. It was blessedly quiet. I would return to the Te Wepu Suite and recommend it to friends traveling to Christchurch for its location, spacious interior, friendly service, and amenities.

Children Yes, children of all ages were welcome.

Class of Accommodation Boutique Style Manor, Studios, Self Contained Apartments

Connectivity There was high speed WiFi in my suite.

General Manager Jeff and Naomi Peters were the relief managers during my stay.

Handicapped Access Yes, there was handicapped access with rails, special bathrooms, shower seats and wheelchair ramps.

Languages Hotel staff were able to greet guests in Chinese, German, Thai, Malaysian, Italian, Indonesian, Spanish, Singaporean.

Length of Stay Two nights

Location The property is nine kilometers, or about a 15 minute drive, from Christchurch International Airport.

Owned and Managed Wayne and Karen Peat

Pets Allowed No

Size The Manor building, where I stayed, has two floors. There were 25 rooms on the half hectare property with eight employees.

Year Opened-Renovated The property opened in 2004. It was renovated in 2015 following the Canterbury earthquakes.

Lobby and Common Areas The entrance to the property was from a busy main street onto a narrow parking lot. Parking spaces were on the right side. There were garden features. The Manor, an old two-story Italianate building, occupied the rear of the property. There was additional parking behind the building. The path was one-way, requiring drivers to circle left around the back to exit the parking lot. There was a small reception desk with a steady flow of guests. There were tourist brochures and promotional flyers on and around the desk. There were also loaner DVDs. Adjacent to the reception there was a laundry room with one washer and one dryer.

Bathroom The rectangular bathroom at the rear of my room had sink, toilet and shower with a glass door.

Room I stayed in the Te Wepu Suite, a 100 square meter two-bedroom suite and a combined living, dining and kitchen room. It was on the ground floor of the Manor building. A dedicated entrance through the front of the building led to a wide hallway that ended in the Manor building interior. To the left of the hallway in a single room were the living, dining and kitchen areas. To the right there were two adjacent en suite bedrooms, each with a king and a single bed.

There was wall to wall carpeting across the suite except for the kitchen and bathrooms. There were some oriental rugs. The hallway had period décor. On the wall, framed photos showcased scenes of Christchurch at the time of the building’s establishment and portraits of the original owners and their family.

The name Te Wepu translates to The Webbs meant to celebrate the owners of the property in 1882. It had four meter ceilings, chandeliers with ornate ceiling roses, and antique sideboards.

The interior furnishings were designed by the owner Karen Peat “with a deference to celebrating the past, while ensuring a modern day look and feel.” The construction was original kauri wood. The owners believe this flexible material helped the building better survive the 2012 earthquakes.

Food and Restaurants On request and for a fee the property offered continental breakfast delivered in the room the previous night. It consisted of fresh fruit (banana, apple, orange, red and green grapes, kiwi), yogurt cereal medley, sliced bread, orange juice and milk.

Amenities There were complimentary hot beverages in the suite, including several types of tea, coffee and hot chocolate powder. There was a pretty flowering orchid plant on the dining table. Mor shampoo, conditioner, moisturizer, amenity kit and hand cream. There were Marshmallow scented deodorizers throughout the building and suite. There were televisions in all the rooms of my suite.

Facilities A laundry room was available for guest use for a fee.

Other The owners expressed a commitment to responsible tourism by recently removing over 5,000 plastic bottles from the property’s recycling program and switching breakfast products into reusable glass containers. There were recycling waste bins in my suite. Staff attended regular housekeeping standards, health and safety, hazard identification, self care, use of equipment and products, and customer service training, according to the owners.

Merivale Manor received two recognitions from TripAdvisor.com: 2019 Travellers Choice Award in four categories (Service, Romantic, Small Hotel, South Pacific Service), and Hall of Fame Award for five years consecutively.

Cleanliness Very Good

Date of Review February 2019

Reviewers

Photos and Article by Elena del Valle

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression My private guided road tour off the beaten track in the South Island of New Zealand was outstanding for a number of reasons. First, many if not most of the places we visited on the island were unspoiled, uncrowded and breathtakingly beautiful. That was no small feat in the peak of high season in an increasingly touristy destination. Had I tried to organize the itinerary myself it would have been challenging and labor intensive to identify the best stops and lodges for me, estimate the amount of driving necessary for each segment, and narrow down the activities to a manageable number.

During my trip I had the opportunity to admire up close and at a distance, on foot and aboard plane, train, glider, helicopters and automobiles, some of the island’s most pristine coasts and beaches, mountains, rain forests, caves, rivers, and lakes, as well as a handful of quaint towns and villages. On several occasions the property owners themselves escorted me on private walks or rides. I dined on freshly prepared local dishes and sampled delicious Kiwi wines. I left having fallen in love with the north and west coast of the island.

I was free to relax and enjoy the vistas along the way thanks to the tireless efforts of Veronika Vermeulen, owner, Aroha New Zealand Tours, my host, guide and driver. In addition to driving she took care of everything of note, including accommodations, confirmations, weather related adjustments to the itinerary, and activity and restaurant reservations. Plus the worldly and well informed European born executive was a pleasant companion and conversationalist.

Traveling in her spacious and comfortable sports utility vehicle (SUV), a silver 2018 Audi Quadro Q7, meant we could stop whenever I wanted within the constraints of the itinerary. While some of the multi-hour drives left little room for distractions along the way there was usually time for rest stops, lunch and sometimes even for souvenir shopping.

The properties she selected varied from quirky and intimate, to remote and upscale. I liked them all and the opportunities they offered to sometimes meet and chat with locals as well as friendly travelers during the cocktail hour and at mealtimes. The activities she suggested, especially the Tasman Helicopter flight, Underwater Rafting, Waiatoto River Jet Boat Tour and Fjordland National Park helicopter flight (shortened due to poor weather), were worthwhile as well. It made a huge difference that they were private.

While the roads were in good condition and there was often a cell phone signal for mapping guidance some days we drove five hours or more on winding and mountainous roads. Having her drive, with confidence and efficiency, was one of the aspects I most appreciated. Although I could have driven I would have been tentative about the route and a slow driver on unfamiliar two-lane roads. Driving on the left would have required extra concentration and effort.

With my guide at the wheel I was able to soak in the scenery instead of having to focus my every moment on the road and finding my way around. Instead of fixing my gaze ahead, and being especially aware in stretches of road aptly named for their perilous configuration such as the Devil’s Staircase, I let my eyes linger on the stunning vistas. I lost my thoughts in the rain forest vegetation we passed, became engaged in engrossing conversation, and quizzed my guide about Kiwi road signs or lunch with nary a thought about staying on the left side or stopping when the narrow path led to a single lane bridge.

Only two issues marred the well organized itinerary, a tire mishap and inclement weather. Bald front tires and no spare forced us to retrace our steps back to Queenstown, where we had to rent a sports utility vehicle (SUV) while we waited for replacement tires to arrive over the weekend. After a few minutes of venting on the phone, followed by a bit of quick thinking and a friendly local Audi dealer we managed to continue our journey with only a minor delay. Foul weather in the Fjorland National Park meant a severely shortened and exceedingly bumpy helicopter flight in windy, rainy and choppy conditions. Despite the rough ride I appreciated the opportunity to see the spectacular scenery.

Foul weather continued meaning our helicopter flight and hike in Aoraki Mount Cook was cancelled. One of the lessons I learned was never to take clear sunny days for granted in New Zealand. Because of poor conditions I missed seeing all or part of two of the most iconic areas of the South Island, and left without setting eyes on a glacier. On the positive side I would gladly return to the South Island (and Aroha Tours would be my first choice). Maybe on a second trip I would have better luck at the Fjorland National Park and Aoroki Mount Cook.

Although I read up on the north and West Coast in advance I relied heavily on Veronika’s familiarity with the destination, inside knowledge, contacts and suggestions. Could we find somewhere to try crayfish? It wasn’t easy, but eventually she and the owners of Cabot Lodge surprised me with a fresh crayfish appetizer at dinner. It was delicious and made my day. When my local mobile phone number kept acting up she insisted on taking care of it while I browsed a local jade shop (she pointed me to an authentic Maori shop). Gliding? Check. A last minute gourmet restaurant booking? No problem. The weather was the only factor out of her control. To deal with the South Island’s common weather related cancellations (according to one local expert I met flights in the glacier area were cancelled 50 percent of the time due to meteorological issues) she left wiggle room in the itinerary whenever feasible.

Getting to New Zealand from the east coast of the United States required multiple connections and close to 40 hours of travel. The Intrepid tour, the reason for my trip, was worth the effort. I thoroughly enjoyed my first visit to New Zealand in large part thanks to the tour. I would highly recommend it to friends who are nature lovers wishing to book a private, customized and guided road itinerary of the South Island with an emphasis on luxury, nature, soft adventure and a touch of gourmet. If they are keen on seeing some of the most famous attractions on the island I would advise them to linger in the vicinity of their favorites. That way if they encounter overcast and windy skies as I did they can wait until they clear.

What I liked most about my Intrepid tour was the eye popping beauty we encountered on our drives, luxury oriented yet intimate accommodations and some soft adventure activities, away from the crowds for a minimum planning effort on my part. While I admired the setting someone else with in depth local knowledge took care of everything for the 16 nights and 2,200 kilometer journey on the South Island of New Zealand. I toured natural corners of the island with little development in comfort with only my guide, feeling relaxed, safe and pampered, and that was the ultimate luxury.

Area Covered From Nelson to Christchurch we traveled 2,200 kilometers in the South Island of New Zealand staying at: Westhaven Luxury Lodge, West Haven Inlet; Ferry Mans Cottage, Westport; Mahitani Lodge, Bruce Bay; Silverpine Lodge, Lake Hawea; QT, Queenstown; Cabot Lodge, Cathedral Peaks Station; and Lakestone Lodge, Twizel.

Cell Phone Signal My guide’s estimate was that we had a cell phone signal during 70 percent of the trip.

Crew Veronika Vermeulen, permanent resident of New Zealand and owner of Aroha Luxury New Zealand Tours, was my driver, host and guide. She was trained in first aid and held Passenger Endorsement Licences. She had a permit to operate guiding activities on Public Conservation Land and was a member of Pro-guides Association. She was married to a dairy farmer and lived on a 600 hectare farm with 1,200 milking cows.

Description We traveled by road from Nelson in the north of the South Island to Westhaven Inlet, where we remained for two nights at the Westhaven Luxury Lodge. While Veronika drove west a Tasman Helicopter private charter flight picked me up at Westhaven Luxury Lodge for a scenic flight over the Abel Tasman National Park (New Zealand’s smallest national park), dropping me off at a regional airport where she awaited my arrival. From there we drove to the West Coast. I remained for two nights in the well equipped two-bedroom Ferry Mans Cottage, Westport. While in the area we went on a half day Underworld Rafting hiking, caving and glowworm viewing activity in Charleston.

Driving past Punakaiki, Hokitika, Franz Josef and Lake Moeraki our next stop for one night was Mahitani Lodge in Bruce Bay, where we had dinner with the owners and other guests. The following day we drove to Haast for a Private Jet Boating Adventure and wilderness walk with Wayne’s Waiatoto River Safari. After a stop in Wanaka for lunch we made our way to Silverpine lodge on Lake Hawea for two nights. The following day we stopped at Archangel Wines for an estate wine tasting.

On our way to QT in Queenstown for one night we had a three course gourmet lunch at Amisfield Bistro & Cellar Door. The following day we visited Glenorchy, a rustic town favored by outdoors enthusiasts. Our gateway to Te Anau and the Fjordland National Park was Cabot Lodge within Cathedral Peaks Station, a private property, where I spent two nights. We were delayed arriving while we found a rental vehicle for the weekend. The following morning our two hour private charter Pleasure Flight Doubtful and Dusky Sounds aboard Fjordland Helicopter was shortened due to stormy weather.

A six hour drive was necessary to reach Lakestone Lodge across the road from Lake Pukaki, hoping for uninterrupted views of Mount Cook National Park Aoraki. Our half day snowshoe and Scenic flight and Heli into National Park was cancelled due to windy and overcast weather. Instead we went on a one hour gliding adventure. Although it was rocky and my stomach didn’t appreciate the turbulent conditions the vistas from the glider were beautiful and the activity was worthwhile.

Children Yes, Aroha Tours was able to accommodate families with children. Some of the activities in the Intrepid tour were restricted for children under 13 years old. I saw only adults at the properties where I stayed.

Duration The Intrepid tour lasted 16 nights

Established October 26, 2000

Handicapped Access Although the Intrepid tour was not suitable for handicapped travelers the company was able to customize tours for wheelchair bound guests, and with advance notice could arrange an additional person fluent in sign language. Extra charges were involved.

Likewise the Intrepid tour was not suitable for travelers with pets or for those requiring service animals such as seeing eye dogs or emotional support animals. For travelers with pets other itineraries were available and extra charges applied.

Internet Connectivity While high speed access was only available in large cities the lodges and hotels where I stayed had WiFi. Only one of them limited use to 500 megabytes before reducing the connection to dial-up speed.

Language In addition to English Veronika spoke fluent German.

Location The tour began in Nelson, a small city on the north end of the South Island and concluded in Christchurch the largest city on the island.

Number of Staff There were two office staff, four full-time guides and four seasonal guides.

Owned and Managed Veronika Vermeulen

Transportation Our vehicle for most of the trip was a new model 2018 Audi Quadro Q7 in silver grey with capacity for three adults, three large suitcases and three small cases, plus the driver, her luggage and a hefty emergency duffel bag. During one weekend we drove a 2019 Toyota Prada sports utility vehicle.

Accommodations I stayed in small four and five star boutique properties, some offered dinner. Prices ranged between 450 New Zealand dollars per night to 1,200 New Zealand dollars per night. Guide accommodations were often motels averaging 150 New Zealand dollars per night.

Meals Restaurant Meals varied by location from a quick fish and chips in a beachfront food truck at lunch along our drive to a vineyard facing gourmet lunch. Neither was included in the itinerary. All meals were made from scratch and mostly fresh ingredients.

Specialty Private guided tours with a personal driver-host throughout the journey

Amenities Luxury SUV stocked with bottled water, fruit and nuts as well as emergency kit with first aid kit, fire extinguisher, disaster survival packs, blankets, and radio.

Tours-Excursions Experienced Private Tasman Helicopter tour over Abel Tasman National Park, private Underworld Rafting, private Waiatoto River Jet Boat Safari, Archangel Wine Tasting, visit Glenorchy, private Fjordland Helicopter tour, and one hour Glide Omarama Instructional Mountain Soaring Trail Flight.

Other The Intrepid tour included all transfers and sightseeing in a luxury vehicle, private guiding throughout, accommodations on a bed and breakfast basis, some dinners, and extra activities on a private tour basis.

The company name Aroha was a Maori word for “the creative force behind all dreams.” Aroah was part of Tiaki (Our Tiaki Promise protects New Zealand for future generations), a New Zealand sustainable tourism program.

Aroha was Official partner of the Rolls-Royce Enthusiast Cub 2018, an official patron of the Harry and Meghan wedding album published by Saint James’s House, a by invitation advertorial feature.

The company boasted that each trip was customized per client interests and budget and that a client’s travel designer was on call round the clock during the tour in case of any emergency.

My guide also served as concierge, ensuring the logistics of the trip went forward without incident. For example, without my having to ask her she monitored weather changes rearranging my itinerary and replacing activities with alternate activities when necessary.

Dates February 2019

Reviewers

Photos and Article by Elena del Valle

Would You Take This Voyage Again Yes

Overall Impression Location, location, location. From the outside Lakestone Lodge, a six-room family owned lovingly built property on the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve in the South Island of New Zealand, looked like a garden variety small lodge uphill from a busy lakeside road. Once inside the appeal increased. From the living room and dining room common area (and from my room) the views of Lake Pukaki and the mountains were impressive. Aoraki Mount Cook, one of the country’s most iconic mountains, was under cloud cover while I was there, making it impossible for me to gaze at the naked peak. Despite that I enjoyed my stay in large part thanks to its picture perfect direct lake and mountain views.

I appreciated the friendly welcome and warm demeanor of the owners; the art peppered around the common areas and grounds, my comfortable room with private lawn and open terrace (a favorite feature); the property’s off the grid status as well as its eco-friendly construction and commitment to environmental sustainability (the owners sought to reduce its environmental impact to an absolute minimum). I liked the generous self service amenities of fresh fruit, hot beverages and baked treats as well as artfully presented homemade breakfasts and dinner.

From the property there was direct access to the Kettlehole Track walk, a one-hour hilltop loop with 360 degree views over the Mackenzie Basin, and Alps2Ocean Cycleway, a lakeside bicycle and walking trail, which ran parallel and within sight of the main road in places. Having seen large crowds at many attractions along the way it was a luxury to be the sole person on the lakeside trail, and one of only three people on the hill trail when I explored them.

Should I return to that part of New Zealand Lakestone Lodge will be on my short list. I will recommend the property to friends who appreciate family owned accommodations in an intimate and serene setting with striking lake and mountain views and sustainable practices.

Children Children aged over 12 years were welcome. There were no children during my stay.

Class of Accommodation Five Star Boutique Lodge

Connectivity There was good mobile phone reception. There was also complimentary WiFi throughout the lodge.

Handicapped Access Yes, according to the owners one room was “fully accessible with special bathroom and handrails.”

Languages English was spoken by all staff. There were also French, German, and Swiss German speaking staff.

Length of Stay Two nights

Location The lodge was 211 kilometers or about two and a half hours drive from Queenstown.

Owned and Managed Anna and Mike Bacchus

Pets Allowed No

Size The one story property on two acres of land had six guestrooms and employed a staff of eight.

Year Opened-Renovated The lodge opened June 2016. It was new looking.

Lobby and Common Areas A double door entrance led from the parking lot to Aoraki Lounge, a single living and dining room. From almost any corner I could see Lake Pukaki and cloud covered Aoraki Mount Cook. Furniture was arranged around a coffee table in the right side. Against the right wall two shelves housed a lending library as well as a self service souvenir selection for sale. There were hot beverages and a wet bar against the back wall. To the left was reception desk, kitchen door, media room to watch television and movies, and therapy room for massages.

To the right of the main salon a hallway led to guestrooms. There was a selection of merino wool clothes for sale draped on a shelf at the entrance to the hallway before the guestrooms.

There were original New Zealand art and paintings throughout the lodge. The owners were in the process of establishing an art collection to enhance their lodge and its gardens. There were Diana Bacchus oil paintings in the guestrooms, massage room and Aoraki Lounge. According to promotional materials, Diana Bacchus is a retired teacher whose affinity with nature is usually reflected in her artworks of semi abstract, color mood paintings.

Hanging in the small window in the Aoraki Lounge was a Geo Mobile wind chime designed to turn in the breeze. Friends visiting Australia recognized that the Geo Mobile’s central motif was similar to the logo design of Lakestone Lodge so they gifted it to Anna and Mike as a welcome present. The Geo Mobile is made from marine grade steel by Botten and Bouwman in Australia.

In the Massage Room there was an intricate, geometric-based form by David Trubridge, an artist from Hawkes Bay, New Zealand. The piece was made from a single component repeated many times. According to promotional materials “David has a strong environmentally conscious philosophy which is demonstrated by his company’s dedication to sourcing sustainable materials where possible and using non-toxic oils for his furniture and other designs.”

In the garden, there was a ball by John van Beek in Tekapo, New Zealand from rusted barbed wire to contrast against the background of the local environment. Since the early days of farming in New Zealand, wire fences have played a vital role in these communities. When old and rusty wire has served its purpose, the artist salvages it and turns it into outdoor art.

Four columns of stone stood at the western side of the property positioned, according to promotional materials, so that looking through the stone columns “it seems that the earth is brought into contact and unity with the lake, distant mountains and the sky above.”

The many beaches and stony areas in New Zealand where people have fun stacking stones or using stones to create designs inspired the stone sculpture at the lodge. Visitors collected stones from the property to create that sculpture. In the Media Room, there was a piece by Ian Hamlin, “one of New Zealand’s leading painters represented in public, private and corporate collections worldwide,” for sale.

The interior design was by Deborah Still Interior Designs based in Timarum. She worked in close consultation with Anna and Mike to complement the eye popping natural environment. Furniture was sourced as locally as possible. The owners emphasized solid, functional furniture from sustainable origins meant to blend in with the environment. Outdoor furniture in all the courtyards and some inside tables came from a local designer in the Mackenzie Basin, where he recycled old wine barrels into furniture.

Large outdoor tables and seats were from local hardwood macrocarpa trees sourced from Burkes Pass in the Mackenzie Basin. The owners selected the heavy wood so that I wouldn’t blow away in high winds.

Many of the benches and vanities were made from leftover concrete from the building process. They were fashioned by a Mackenzie based artist.

Bathroom I liked the bathroom’s blend of form and function. The tiled bathroom had underfloor heating, full view of lake and mountains (a favorite), and an oval bathtub next to the window to take advantage of the view. Electronic controls made it easy to raise and lower the blinds above the bathtub. The concrete vanity was custom designed. Across from the bathtub there was a glass enclosed shower.

Room I stayed in Sealy (named after Mount Sealy 2,627 meters in height, part of New Zealand’s Southern Alps and visible from my room), a 25 square meter Lake View Super King room. The second room from the entrance and common room it had a private 24 square meter terrace with outdoor furniture and lawn. I had pretty lake and mountain views from every corner of my room.

It was furnished with a comfortable bed sandwiched between matching night tables and set against a built-in cushioned headboard. It was decorated in gray with a single unframed oil painting as the only artwork on the wall. Matching cloth and wood armchairs and a wood and metal two-level table faced sliding glass doors. Atop the table there was a white vase with fragrant lilies. Curtains provided privacy and shade from summer sunlight.

My favorite feature of the room was its private terrace with expansive lake and mountain views. Sliding glass doors led onto a concrete slab with twin wood reclining armchairs and a matching table. Large rocks surrounded a green lawn with shaggy straw plants. A wall on either side of my terrace meant I didn’t see my neighbors’s terraces.

The room temperature could be adjusted via a remote controlled heating and cooling unit on the wall above the bed. There was also centrally controlled underfloor heating. During the day natural light filled the room. At night there was ample light in the room and convenient reading lights hung above the headboard.

Food and Restaurants The chef created a daily changing set dinner menu based around local products such as salmon, venison and lamb. According to a spokesperson, the menu could be altered to suit dietary requirements. There was an additional charge for dinner. A cooked egg or pancake breakfast was included in the rate. Lunch was available on site at an additional cost.

Amenities There was a slightly sweet blue welcome drink on arrival. On the table in my room there was a folder with detailed information about the property and staff. There were New Zealand made Linden Leaves toiletries (shampoo, conditioner, body wash, body lotion in 300 milliliter plastic bottles), described as 100 percent certified natural, in the bathroom. There were also New Zealand made Forest and Bird amenities (bath salts, soap, vanity kit). For every purchase of one of those products a percentage of its value was said to go directly to Forest & Bird to support their work protecting animals and wild places. Plastics were recyclable, formulations were described as biodegradable.

There was a tea and coffee station in the common area with fresh fruit and baked goods. I especially liked the moist marble cake.

I found out after I left that there were complimentary bicycles available for guest use.

Facilities Restaurant for in-house guests, treatment room for massages and facials; onsite helipad with capacity for two helicopters; media room with big screen and surround sound with access to 300 movies. There was a common terrace adjacent to the dining room with twin water features and fire pit.

Other In October 2018, The property was recognized as a 5 Star Boutique and Lodge with Qualmark’s Gold Sustainable Tourism Business Award, the New Zealand tourism official quality assurance organization.

An off-grid eco-lodge it was self-sustainable with solar power, onsite artesian water bore (well), and its own eco-sewerage system. The owners and staff encouraged guests to recycle, providing recycling bins in the common area. The lodge management sought to minimize consumption of resources.

Located In the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve its lights were designed to enhance the night sky. It was the only building to have a view of Aoraki Mount Cook (New Zealand’s highest mountain) over Lake Pukaki,

The lodge was near the Alps2Ocean Cycleway, a 300 kilometer bicycle trail from Aoraki Mount Cook to Oamaru on the coast. From the property parking lot there was access to the Kettlehole Track walk, a one-hour loop with 360 degree views over the Mackenzie Basin.

The owners, both New Zealand natives, had the lodge architecturally designed to blend in with the natural environment of the Mackenzie Country, using a palette of natural colors. The Lodge was heated mainly through a passive design with large north facing windows that allowed the full low angle winter sun to heat the inside of the building (the eave design didn’t allow high angle summer sun to enter the rooms). When the winter sun entered the rooms it warmed dark floor tiles near the doors and the internal tilt panel concrete walls. The walls were each attached to the 10-ton underfloor insulated thermal mass that moderated the temperature between day and night.

Because external temperatures in winter may drop to approximately -20 Centigrade (-4 Fahrenheit), additional means of heating were necessary. The property converted excess solar power into heating water, which was also used for underfloor heating, and was boosted by a boiler when necessary to maintain a comfortable temperature throughout the year. There was a large “clean-air” wood fire in the Aoraki lounge.

According to the property description, guestroom insulation was substantially superior to the building code requirements, and all windows used high spec thermally broken double glazing to retain warmth. A heat exchanger pumped fresh air quietly into guestrooms and extracted stale air. The process warmed incoming fresh air, eliminating the need for air-conditioning. In order for the system to work efficiently windows and doors needed to remain closed. It wasn’t necessary for me to make use of the wall unit in my room.

When necessary, long lasting energy efficient LED bulbs provided artificial light. Lighting was triggered by motion sensors on the interior and exterior. Lights and electrical equipment were turned off when not in use to conserve energy. Energy efficient appliances were used throughout the Lodge. When the weather allowed, washing was air dried on a clothes line.

The property harvested rainwater from the large roof and stored it in a 30,000 liter tank. As backup, the property had its own water bore (well) to pump water from 46 meters below the surface. Because rainfall was very low management relied on water conservation practices, reducing water usage through certified tapware, shower heads, low water use toilets and only replacing bath towels when necessary.

The lodge conducted internal recycling, separating waste at its source and composting organic material, which in turn was used in its vegetable garden and orchard. Sewerage was dealt with onsite, where material was broken down by natural microorganisms.

Guests were invited to conserve energy by turning off lights and other electrical appliances when not in use; reusing towels and bed linen where possible; keeping windows and doors shut on cold days and nights; using appliances and chargers when the sun was shining if possible; showering and bathing when the sun was shining, if possible; in the winter opening blinds and curtains during the day when there was sunlight and closing them at night; and in spring and autumn closing curtains curtains during the day to keep out the heat.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Review February 2019

Reviewers

Photos and Article by Elena del Valle

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression It had been 12 years since we had dined at Lasserre, named for René Lasserre, who created the restaurant almost 80 years prior, and we wondered how it might have changed. From the valet at the entrance to the all male formally attired dining room staff inside the service was as attentive as I remembered. From the ground floor we climbed a short staircase one floor. Our escort pulled thick curtains aside to reveal an elegant dining room with elaborate and tasteful décor. Dim fall light filtered through large street-facing windows. Beyond them we had a bird’s eye view of the Grand Palais, one of the city’s well known historic monuments.

We were there on a fall day in the midst of weeks of Yellow Vest demonstrations often centered on the upscale western neighborhoods of the city, including the famed Golden Triangle where the restaurant is located. Perhaps because of that ours was one of only a handful of tables that day.

Our intimate table occupied prime real estate in a corner of what appeared to be the best section of the salon, two steps down from the arrival level. From our well cushioned and comfortable seats we had an unobstructed view across the dining room and through the windows to the facade of the world famous building across the street. Above us a mirrored ceiling drew our attention, partly because it showcased the room from an unexpected angle and partly because despite the outdoor chill we anticipated the roof to open during the meal.

Despite occasional noise from an adjacent construction site I liked that, except for the piano player’s soft sounds, it was quiet in the space we shared with few other diners. Guests were French speaking and middle-aged. Lunch was artfully presented and “modern” in style, eliciting mostly sighs of pleasure and satisfaction. We liked the well prepared dishes, each one cooked in a way that brought out the natural flavors to their best advantage. In the future, should I be in need of an elegant gourmet venue to celebrate a special occasion in that neighborhood Lasserre will be on my short list for its excellent service, beautiful interior with an inspired view and aspirational Tasting Menu.

About the Executive Chef Nicolas Le Tirrand trained in Pavillon Ledoyen, Plaza Athénée, Four Seasons George V, and 39V. At Lasserre he sought to be rigorous, straightforward and contemporary.

According to his biography, he is a patient, workaholic and bon vivant cook, who masters the art of assembling, seasoning and cooking at the perfect temperature; and a chef, thanks to his leadership abilities, who wishes to be particularly aware of product sourcing, waste management and globally on ecology.

Executive Chef Nicolas Le Tirrand

Handicapped Access Yes. The restaurant was on the first floor. There was an elevator.

Head Sommelier Stéphane Jan

Restaurant manager Gerald Louis Canfailla

Languages Spoken In addition to French some staff spoke English and were able to welcome guests in English.

Location On the well known Franklin Roosevelt Avenue in the ritzy eighth arrondissement.

Opened-Renovated The restaurant opened in 1942. In 2017, it underwent a “full renovation.”

Owned A restaurant spokesperson declined to identify the restaurant owner for undisclosed reasons.

Pastry Chef Jean Lachenal

Size The restaurant was 170 square meters large and could accommodate up to 80 guests. We estimated a staff compliment of 30.

Decor The décor was designed to emphasize a sense of the theatrical. A tiny elevator, upholstered with black fabric embroidered with a multitude of doves, the house symbol, transported guests between two levels. There was a 35 square meter 66-year old sunroof that once during our meal opened onto the Parisian sky. There were white orchid plants like sentinels standing along the dining room.

Our table, and the dining room in general, faced the Grand Palais entrance. Three vast arched bay windows enhanced the view. The interior design was inspired by a winter garden to be warm and bright. The artistic inspiration of the sunbathed room was a nod to the architectural finesse of the Grand Palais, its original frescoes and monumental equestrian statues. Eight mirrors were positioned to allow the eyes to wander around the room with discretion as a nod to the founder, who was said to enjoy looking without being seen.

The sunroof was covered by a golden mirror to reflect the whiteness of the moldings and wood panels. The walls were covered by elaborate anise-green fabrics with contemporary patterns, representing birds, slender branches, flowers, butterflies, and grapes vines. The grey carpet had long and thin bronze embroidered creepers on it. There were also some antiques on display such as an earthenware piece from Saxony with a colorful parrot on top. It formed part of a collection of bird-shaped silver artifacts accumulated over the years.

Meal We had a delicious six course Tasting Menu without wine. The appetizers were: A la nage Tourteau de casier en fine gelee de navet daikon, ecume de liveche et pince tiede (a favorite); and Dans l’esprit Lasserre Gratin de macaroni a l’artichaut et a la truffe noire (macaroni gratin with artichoke and black truffles).

The main courses were: Sur sarments de cassis Homard bleu de Loctudy aux baies, crème de chou rouge a l’ail noir, jus de presse (blue lobster from Loctudy and a favorite); Fleuree de sel et d’epigrammes salle d’agneau de lait et girolles etuvees, fines arlettes de pommes de terres iodees (lamb with seaweed and potato crisps, chanterelle mushrooms and watercress); A l’unilaterale chateaubriand et quelques bettraves a la vinaigrette de cacao, vrai jus (chateaubriand with a lettuce heart served warm with olive oil to cleanse the palate with beets and cacao vinegar). The chocolate vinegar and beet were a worthy contrast to the meat.

The desserts were: Foisonne a la minute Chocolat du Perou “60% de cacao” sous de fines feuilles a la fleur de sel (60 percent dark chocolate from Peru with fleur de sel leaves); and Confite du four Banane dans sa peau sur fraicheur de rhum, ecume de cafe et crème glacee epicee aux eclats de noisette (banana prepared with rum, coffee and iced cream served with hazelnuts).

Special Menus Six course Tasting Menu for 195 euros.

Cellars Wine and Alcoholic Beverage Selection The restaurant had 50 varieties of alcohol, including rare products such as a 1914 cognac, 1890 Cognac AE d’or, and 1918 Armagnac Sempe. It also had 1,300 wine labels from all the French regions, including Domaine Armand Rousseau, Romanée Conti (Burgundy), Petrus, Lafitte, O brion, Chateau Margaux (Bordeaux), Didier Dagneau (Loire), Chateau Rayas, Domaine Henri Bonneau, and Domaine Gangloff (Rhone).

Other Amenities included WiFi, valet service, and live piano music. The entire meal was prepared using fresh (not frozen) ingredients, 50 percent of the ingredients were organic (all the vegetables were organic). Jackets were required for men.

Date of Review December 2018

Number of Visits One

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Staff were serious, attentive, efficient and polite. I was escorted down the elevator and back from the ground floor lady’s room. Our napkins were replaced with fresh dessert napkins when we concluded the savory portion of the meal.

Would You Dine Eat There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression Our most recent visit to Maison Blanche Paris was on a chilly fall day during the weeks of Yellow Vest demonstrations that rocked the western neighborhoods of the city, including the Golden Triangle where the restaurant is located. Perhaps because of that it was far from full that day. We had a pleasant well prepared lunch.

Midday sunlight filtered through the huge glass walls inside, adding sparkle to the dining room. My lunch partner faced the river while I faced a residential building across the street. We liked peering across the street at the residential building, intrigued by the labor intensive efforts of workmen lifting furnishings with a crane, and to the right at the Seine River. When we stepped outside briefly we were able to see, as we squinted against the bright sun, the Eiffel Tower. Around us a business crowd kept the volume moderate even at the mealtime peak. Staff members, many of them addressing us in English, were friendly and efficient. From the duck foie gras with salt grains atop to the delicious lemon dessert lunch was balanced, artfully presented and satisfying.

Our meal was worth repeating thanks to warm and attentive service, a pretty setting, including a side view of the Seine River from our table, and not least, a tasty and well served meal. Maison Blanche will be on our neighborhood shortlist for an informal yet upscale ambiance.

About the Restaurant Manager After graduating from the Lausanne School in Hotel Management, he worked as development manager, Restaurant and Hotel Department, at the Chamber of Commerce and Industry. Later he joined the team at Raymond Thuillier’s L’Auberge de Provence in London before spending five years at the Hôtel Château Chartrons in Bordeaux.

He then followed Alain Ducasse’s footsteps as operations manager at the Hôtel du Parc, where he remained for five years. He participated in the establishment of the famous chef’s 59 Raymond Poincaré restaurant in Paris, France, the opening of Spoon restaurants in London and Mauritius, as well as the organization of gala events in Hong Kong and Tokyo.

Chef de Cuisine Fabrice Giraud, a native of La Ciotat, began his career at Chantecler Negresco in Nice, France, Great Cascade in Paris, France and Hotel de Paris in Monaco. In 1999, he was appointed chef de cuisine for the first time at the restaurant Bread and Wine in Brussels, Belgium, which became a Michelin-starred restaurant. In 2001, he became head chef at the Grand Barrail in Saint-Emilion, France before taking the lead in the kitchens of the Perigord and the Ermenonville.

In 2009, Giraud worked at Pudong Shangri-La in Shanghai and at the Shangri-La Hotel Bosphorus Istanbul, Turkey. He also worked at Tiara Yaktsa and at the opening of Tiara Miramar Beach Hotel & Spa in Cannes, France. In March 2015, Giraud joined the Maison Blanche restaurant as chef.

Handicapped Access Yes, according to a spokesperson wheelchair bound guests were welcome. There was an elevator.

Head Sommelier David Desplanches and Kevin Quinsenac

Languages Spoken In addition to French staff were able to welcome guests in English. Nearly all the staff that looked after us spoke English.

Location In the well-known Golden Triangle.

Opened-Renovated The restaurant opened in 1990. The most recent update was in 2011 when the Terrace Montaigne was added.

Owned Benjamin Demarigny and others a spokesperson declined to identify for undisclosed reasons

Pastry Chef James Choplin

Restaurant Manager Bruno Franck

Size The restaurant had 50 employees and 410 square meters of indoor space as well as two terraces with additional capacity in warm weather. It could accommodate up to 250 dinner guests.

Type of Restaurant Fine dining

Decor The restaurant, at the top of the historic Théâtre des Champs-Élysées building, was decorated by Imaad Rahmouni in a contemporary style, emphasizing its best asset, a partial view of the Seine, the Dome of Les Invalides and the Eiffel Tower. A view of the Eiffel Tower was possible from a few tables and angles only. The tables were covered with white tablecloths and dinnerware. The only decorative items were metal pieces with the colors of the French flag. At our table there was a vase with an orchid in a pebble medium. There was a pepper grinder and Himalayan salt.

Cellars Wine and Alcoholic Beverage Selection There were 380 wine references.

Special Menus The restaurant offered a two course Lunch Menu for 49 euros and a three course Lunch Menu for 59 euros. For dinner there were three set menu options: Menu Gourmet for 72 euros, five course Menu Degustation (Tasting Menu) for 95 euros, and six course Menu Degustation for 125 euros.

For groups of more than 11 people a three course menu cost 135 euros; a four course menu cost 157 euros and a Tasting Menu was 183 euros.

Meal We had a menu selected for us by the chef, who served each of us a different dish. We began with cheese puff amouse buche and bubbly. We had three choices of bread: baguette, cereal and country.

Our appetizers: Duck foie gras, young leafs, toasted hazelnuts and Cumberland sauce (Foie gras de canard en lobe, salade de jeunes pousses, noisettes toastees et sauce Cumberland) and Perfect organic egg, salad fennel shaving’s, sun dried tomatoes, garden peas sprouts (Oeuf bio parfait a l’avocat, mimolette ancienne et Ghoa Cress).

Mains: Pan-fried meagre, jus with brown butter and preserved lemon (Maigre en peau croustillante, jus de volaille au beurre noisette et citron confit); Red Gunard seared, turnip cabbage fine mousse with apple and orange and garlic broth (Rouget grondin saisi, mousseline de chou-rave pomme orange et bouillon a l’ail); Free-range fowl leg, millefeuille layering of potatoes with comet cheese, spinach and citrus fruit (Cuisse de pintade fermiere, millefeuille de pommes de terre au comte, epinards et agrumes); Ox cheek braised in red wine, cep mushrooms, creamy polenta and shallots preserve (Joue de boeuf braisee au vin rouge, polenta cremeuse aux cepes et confit d’echalots). We especially liked the tiny mushrooms and tiny Brussels sprouts of the dish, which packed a flavor punch.

Cheese course: Before dessert we had a four cheese course with goat cheese, Saint Nectaire, Camembert, and Comte cheeses and a small salad garnished with dried figs.

Desserts: Lemon meringue and olive oil shortbread (Citron meringue et sable a l’huile d’olive) and “Maison Blanche” cake with dark chocolate (Fondant “Maison Blanche” au chocolat noir). The lemon dessert was a favorite.

A sommelier selected the following to accompany our meal: Champagne Lallier R014, 2015 Vieux Solitaire Grande Reserve AOP Maury Sec; and 2012 Zede de Labegorce Margaux.

Other There was WiFi, valet and cloakroom service. The restaurant received the Distinction L’Assiette Michelin in the 2016 Michelin Guide.

Date of Review November 2018

Number of Visits One

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service From arrival to departure the service was warm and attentive. One staff member was exceedingly shy. Tiago Martins, Alain-Philippe Present and Romain Guilherme were co-managers.

Would You Dine Eat There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression Since I specialize in writing about history and align my travel with that interest, I should have visited Atlanta long ago. The burning of the commercial capital of the Confederacy in November 1864, memorialized in Gone with the Wind, was the symbolic end of the rebellion. If General William Sherman had not driven out the rebels two months before, Abraham Lincoln would likely not have been reelected and one of the anti-war candidates would have sought peace with the South. The Northern public was discouraged by the failure of dozens of attempts to take Richmond, the Confederate capital, and weary of the bloodshed that is hard for us to even imagine (new research shows that the traditional figure of 620,000 dead was far too low; the better estimate of was 785,000 at a time when the total population North and South was only 31 million. The equivalent today would be nearly eight million dying in four years). My wife, Sandra Wells, and I went there primarily for the Atlanta History Center, the Jimmy Carter Presidential Museum, the Martin Luther King Jr. Historic Site, and the Georgia Aquarium (the world’s largest, which deserved the AAA guidebook’s recommendation to spend five hours there).

The Ritz-Carlton Atlanta exceeded our expectations, which were high. We loved the subtly luxurious décor, the abundance of fresh flowers in common areas and rooms, the knowledge and proactive service of staff, the comfortable beds, the quietness of the room despite the location in a district with entertainment venues and business and government offices, and the short walk to major attractions, with a hub for the easy-to-use Metropolitan Atlanta Rapid Transit Authority (MARTA) subway-bus system next door. A Club Level upgrade allowed us to drop by a lounge that was convenient for small meetings and had plentiful food, snacks, and beverages all day. The biggest surprise was AG, a bar and steakhouse that specialized in fine wines and whiskey, which would not normally be our fare, but thanks to the guidance of those serving us, we thoroughly enjoyed. We would return.

Children The hotel offered children a complimentary Ritz Kids activity book with crayons and a self-guided scavenger hunt in the hotel. There was also a menu for children at AG, the restaurant.

Class of Accommodation Luxury hotel

Cleanliness Excellent

Connectivity High-speed WiFi was $9.95 per day (complimentary with Club Level and for Marriott Rewards members). There was complimentary Internet access in the lobby.

General Manager Erwin Schinnerl

Handicapped Access According to a representative the hotel was completely Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) accessible in public areas; there were three fully-accessible king bed rooms with roll-in showers, as well as eight half-accessible rooms with bars in the tubs for assistance (accessible rooms had a 32-inch wide doorway). Guests could request special kits with alarms and phone extensions.

Head Concierge Victoria Edmond

Languages There were staff who spoke Spanish and Italian.

Length of Stay Two nights

Location The hotel was 11 miles from Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, the busiest in the world with 100 million travelers coming through each year, which made the city a good place for global business (the Delta Airlines headquartered were there and there was a museum of flight). It took us about half an hour to reach the hotel. The Peachtree Street hub for MARTA, the modern, efficient, and clean subway and bus system, was next to the hotel (we bought a four-day unlimited pass for $21 each). The hotel was a six block walk from the Philips Arena (home to the NBA’s Hawks and WNBA’s Dream), the brand new Mercedes-Benz Stadium (NFL’s Falcons), the College Football Hall of Fame and Chick-fil-A Fan Experience, the Georgia Aquarium (the largest in the world and worth spending five hours there), CNN’s headquarters (which had an interesting backstage tour), the World of Coca-Cola, and the Center for Civil and Human Rights (an interactive museum).

Managed Ritz Carlton

Owned Ashford Hospitality Trust

Pets No, only service animals were welcome.

Size There were 444 rooms on 25 floors, with 295 employees.

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation The hotel opened in 1984. Remodeling of the restaurant AG was completed in 2016.

Lobby and Common Areas The entry was striking, with a massive, pleasantly abstract painting hovering over a polished dark hardwood floor and stairs, which led down to the lobby and Lumen Bar and up to the restaurant and bar, AG. The lobby floor was marble of pale pink with white streaks and some color designs, but the most notable aspect of the décor was lots of exotic flowers (including orchids) with their roots in ice. There were paintings of leaders from Atlanta history on the walls.

Lumen had subdued lighting, dark wooden floors, and comfortable seating. AG’s colors were black-and-white, which matched the photos on the walls from Atlanta’s history, as well as the tile in the breakfast area and was compatible with the dark wood floor. The second floor hallway, outside of AG, had dark wood walls and floors, overlaid with a red carpet that had swirling gold designs, while the hall to our room had yellow carpets with red geometric designs, soothing light yellow wallpaper and pleasant abstract paintings.

Outside of the conference rooms there were pale, high-backed sofas with a low table in between and a blue carpet with gold flower designs. The fitness center had dark wood floors. The Club Lounge (which provided all-day access to food and beverages, complimentary Internet, a large-screen TV in a separate section so it could be watched without bothering others, and niches for meetings) had yellow marble and dark wood floors, with comfortable blue couches. There was a small, quiet corner called The Library. Throughout the public spaces chandeliers were elegant and cast a subtle illumination, not attracting attention to themselves. Elevators were surprisingly fast for a tall building. There was also a spectacular atrium connecting The Ritz-Carlton, Atlanta to the adjacent office building at 191 Peachtree Street.

Bathroom It was small, given the spacious room, but adequate. Its marble bathtub was low at 13 inches tall (good for handicapped accessibility), 54 inches long by 22 inches wide, with a shower curtain and rain showerhead. There was a single sink. The water pressure was strong.

Room We stayed in room 2402, a Club Level King Deluxe on the same floor as the Club Lounge. It was 334 square feet large and functional with a view of the business district. The hotel appeared serious about its non-smoking policy: a sign notified guests that a $250 fine would be imposed on anyone caught smoking. Lighting was soft, yet better than at many hotels we have visited, which have fallen into the trend of using pinpoint lights as part of their minimalist aesthetic that makes it hard to see clearly. There was a dark wood cabinet and oval desk with a chair, as well as a stuffed chair by the window. The carpet was off white, the wallpaper either a straw or satin color. There were abstract paintings on the wall. There was a dark wood panel at the head of the bed. The feather medium firm mattress and feather pillows were extremely comfortable (available for purchase from the company website). The linens were Italian Frette.

We signed up for the Club Lounge, which provided access to a lovely setting where we could have meetings or relax and enjoy a variety of complimentary food and drinks from early morning until late night; a “hotel inside the hotel,” it had complimentary WiFi, a PC and a Mac, a large TV, and concierge services to guests.

Food and Restaurants As natural food lacto-ovo vegetarians, we do not find most mainstream restaurants of much interest. Only Sandra drinks alcohol occasionally. We were spoiled by the Club Lounge when it came to breakfast and snacks, which had not only The Ritz-Carlton’s brand of coffee and related beverages, but its own not-too-sweet granola, as well as customized omelets, delicious Southern grits, fried sweet potatoes, gourmet dates, quinoa, and dried blueberries and vanilla goat cheese combo that tasted like cheesecake. Although we did not try them, there was a host of meats and fish, as well as desserts, cordials, liqueurs, beers, wines, and spirits.

The sign on Peachtree Street still advertised the Atlanta Grill, but the main restaurant had been recently completely reinvented and renamed AG, sometimes with the subtitle “a modern steakhouse.” It did not sound promising for us, but general manager Eddie Elrod, executive sous chef Gilles Schreiber, server Arnoud and his assistant Shah headed up a team that did a superb job. Arnoud, a first-level sommelier, selected a red wine (Sancerre Pinot Noir) and a white (Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis) to sample and Sandra was impressed with their taste and power (having so much fun she forgot to write down the years). Then came a sample from the restaurant’s personal barrel of WhistlePig rye whiskey, aged 10 years. Kaiyah came over from the bar and used a torch on wood chips to add smoke to the glass before she poured the whiskey. She said the AG’s Smoky Old Fashioned has a cult following.

Our server team recommended we try the BBQ Tofu, Angel Hair Pasta, Jumbo Grilled Asparagus, Mushrooms and Cipollini Onions, Tomato Soup, and the spicy Buffalo Cauliflower. Sandra’s enthusiasm for each dish might have been fueled by the drinks, but I can state without bias that it was some of the best-prepared food we had ever had and in generous portions. By the time we finished we had been there two hours and had to practically force ourselves to squeeze in the desserts, Pistachio Cheesecake and Panna Cotta Bar (raspberries, raspberry sorbet, and frangipane), with Sandra sampling a Chateau Gutet Premier Muscat dessert wine approvingly.

Amenities In our room there was an iPod docking station. Tech help and equipment were available on request, including surge protectors, power converters and adapters, chargers for mobile phones and laptops, and Ethernet jack-packs. The small closet in our room had one lightweight cotton robe. It also had a safe, a flashlight for emergencies, a Voyager iron, and full size ironing board. There was a shoeshine kit (and complimentary overnight shoeshine on request) and full-length umbrella (which was important when it rained heavily one day unexpectedly). Toiletries were in 1.5 ounce bottles from Asprey. There was a stocked mini refrigerator with room for personal items. Ice was available down the hall. The Nespresso coffeemaker had the Ritz-Carlton’s locally-formulated coffee, along with Origins teas (we did not use these because the Club Lounge on our floor made fresh coffee early and on the lobby level there was a Jittery Joe’s Coffee Shop). In-room dining was available round the clock. Local and national newspapers were placed by the elevator in the early morning. Chauffeured transportation was available, though we did not need it because of the fast MARTA system. In the bathroom, the makeup mirror had the inadequate lighting of almost every hotel where we have stayed, and there was a Pro-Vera hairdryer by Jordan, as well as a comb (but no hotel seems to provide hair brushes, perhaps because of the need to clean them). A nice touch was a dental kit with a toothbrush and toothpaste.

Facilities There was a staffed business center on the third floor offering copy, print, fax, ship, secretarial, translation, and notary services. There was a 997-square-foot fitness center equipped with Life Fitness equipment and open 24 hours a day seven days a week. For a fee, guests were able to go into the 191 Resolution Fitness club next door, which had more equipment, steam, sauna, and a variety of fitness classes. There was also a gift shop.

Conference Facilities The hotel had 17,000 square feet of event space in 18 rooms, which could accommodate groups of 10 (365 square feet), 700 (6,468 square feet) and up to 1,500 (18,000 square feet). I was unable to enter the large meeting rooms because they were always busy and organizers did not want photos taken. The Distillery, a private dining room in AG, had a wooden floor and a long wood table to accommodate a couple of dozen guests in front of a display of the hotel’s premium spirits.

Other Local calls were subject to a $1 surcharge. We were impressed with alert security staff, which we only noticed because we visited right after the Las Vegas mass shooting. We particularly appreciated staying at The Ritz-Carlton, Atlanta, located in the heart of downtown, due to my having recently interviewed Bill Marriott, former chief executive officer of Marriott International, which owned The Rita-Carlton Hotel Company. Having last reviewed a Ritz-Carlton hotel when we stayed at the one in Hong Kong in 2002, I wanted to see what the experience was like, now that I understood his standards and systems. Marriott International has dozens of brands, but according to him each has the same management approach, which results in a much higher retention of long-term employees than competitors (managers average 25 years versus Hilton Hotels’ 15 years, he told me); and Marriott properties hire for friendly personality and dependability, since technical skills can be trained. The Credo Card that guides the Ritz-Carlton’s motto of “ladies and gentlemen serving ladies and gentlemen” includes a commitment to “uncompromising levels of cleanliness,” the “ownership and immediate resolution of guest problems,” and “empowerment to create unique, memorable and personal experiences for guests.” The Ritz-Carlton Atlanta received the Forbes Four Star rating in 2016 and 2017 and was named one of the Conde Nast Traveler Top 40 Hotels in the South in 2017. At the time of our visit, The Ritz-Carlton Rewards program had an excellent reputation.

Reviewers

Photos and Article by Scott S. Smith

Service The room was cleaned twice a day and there was turn-down service. During our stay, when I talked to random hotel staff as needed, to the Club staff, a security guard, and restaurant staff they were able to answer questions. The staff we encountered were helpful.

Overall Impression It had been several years since our first stay at Singita Ebony in South Africa’s popular Sabi Sand Reserve. We knew Singita had refreshed the décor and were curious about the changes. As we walked across the bridge from the arrival parking area and our host showed us around I remembered the two level swimming pools steps from the open air main building. My eyes were immediately drawn across the new bar to the Sand River. The deck, perched on the edge of the property facing the river looked familiar, but not the same. Our friendly host explained that the deck was larger as the property had expanded the multilevel platform. And, in lieu of the bright hues of the past the color theme was neutral bush tones.

Minutes later we were exploring our double suite, a stand alone structure only steps away from the main building and adjacent deck. It instantly became a favorite. A shared glass enclosed entry foyer provided privacy while maintaining a sense of openness to the bush around us. Inside, the two 56 square meter rooms, each with its own deck and heated plunge pool, were spacious and well appointed while at the same time homey. The river and bush fronting setting was fantastic. Every day we made time to take a dip in the heated plunge pool, enjoying the solitude while soaking in the views and serenity of the nearby wilderness. With difficulty I tore myself away from my luxurious cocoon for the twice daily game drives, to swim laps in the full size swimming pool, workout and enjoy a treatment at the spa, and visit the well stocked gift shop and art gallery a short drive away.

Immediately before the afternoon game drive there was an elaborate tea service with a choice of beverages and petit fours. Thirty minutes was scarcely enough time to meet new arrivals, engage in conversation and indulge in the variety of treats. We headed out on the game drive with hearts and bellies content, eager for a Big Five encounter.

In addition to the natural setting, Big Five (and cheetah) sightings, stylish furnishings and my suite, what I most remember was the efficient and friendly service. When a well worn flip flop broke we attempted to purchase a replacement at the Singita shop only to discover there were none available. On hearing about it the staff volunteered a temporary solution. A resourceful staff member glued it so well it lasted through the end of the trip.

We liked the refreshed décor, including the new deck space, especially the shady corners during the hot lunch hours, facing the partly dry riverbed. From the chocolate in the mini bar (a rare find on safari) and watercolor kit in the riverside room, to the attentive service and posh accommodations Singita Ebony set a high bar for safari luxury.

Children The property welcomed children of all ages without any restrictions.

Class of Accommodation Luxury Safari Lodge

General Manager Chantelle Maritz, who was there during our stay, and Kobus De Kock

Handicapped Access The property welcomed blind, deaf and wheelchair bound guests.

Length of Stay Three nights

Location In the Singita Reserve within the western Sabi Sand Reserve, which is adjacent to the Kruger National Park.

Number of Employees About 80

Owned and Managed Luke Bailes

Size The lodge had 12 rooms. The Singita Reserve, shared by Ebony and Boulders lodges and Castleton Camp was 6,000 hectares in size. The total traversing area was 18,000 hectares. The Singita Reserve was situated within the 45,000 acre Sabi Sand Reserve which was adjacent to and fenceless from the Kruger National Park.

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation The lodge opened in 1993 and the most recent renovation was in 2015.

Lobby and Common Areas The décor had changed significantly since our previous visit years earlier. Open air spaces dominated during our spring stay when hot temperatures ruled the day and the thermometer dipped thirty or more degrees fahrenheit in the evenings. Decorative features included still-life collections of antiques and artifacts, vintage campaign furniture from the Bailes family collection, wood, iron, steel and aged bronze reminiscent of the 19th century, oversized sepia photography, leopard and zebra print upholstery selected to complement bold graphic tribal patterned murals. Canvas and glass replaced internal and external walls to create safari tent-style rooms.

Bathroom One of my favorite features of the bathroom was the views of the deck, riverbed and bush it offered from almost every spot thanks to the glass walls of the room. The bathing area of the bathroom was two steps away from the bed without doors dividing the two spaces. There were twins sinks, each on a wood stand, on opposite ends of the bathroom. One set against the back wall had a large framed mirror. One set against a glass wall had a hanging, round framed mirror. A square leather stool took up the center of the bathroom. There was a clawfoot bath tub against the glass wall facing the side terrace and outdoor shower. A wood towel rack was to next to it in the corner. In the opposite corner there was a glass enclosed shower. Half a level below, reached by a few steps, a separate room at the end of the walk-in closet housed a toilet and sink.

Room I loved my room with its glass walls, doorless interior and inviting terrace, especially the heated plunge pool. Facing the main lodge building we turned left, walking at a slight upward angle on a brick path, to reach our thatched roof rooms. We stayed in adjacent Rooms 8 and 9, the Singita Ebony Lewis Suites, which shared a convenient entrance foyer with glass doors. The foyer was large enough to house two comfortable and cushioned armchairs. It provided a convenient place to wait for our staff escort at night. Oversize, self locking and swiveling wood doors lead into two Sand River fronting rooms.

The rooms, 56 square meters each, were divided into two main areas: An indoor space without interior walls and an outdoor terrace. Indoors, there was an entrance foyer and desk area, a bedroom, a bathing and ablutions space, a large walk-in closet, and a separate room with the toilet and sink. Two sliding glass doors provided access to the terrace, one next to the desk opened onto the sitting part of the porch. The other in the bathing area opened in front of the plunge pool. Outdoors, the terrace was a continuous doorless space. One side, under roof, had a comfortable sofa and two armchairs. The other had a plunge pool, two adjustable cushioned lounge chairs and a sun umbrella. In the back there was an outdoor shower. There were several vervet monkeys on my terrace the day I arrived.

The room, decorated in earth tones with safari accents, was made with a combination of concrete, glass, and canvas. The floors were of polished concrete with area rugs. The terrace floors were wood, except for the stone outdoor shower. The area of the room facing the river had glass walls, affording a river view from almost every angle. It was possible to lower a canvas cover for privacy or to shut out the daylight. The temperature was controlled via two wall-mounted air conditioning and heating units. There was also a fireplace near the desk. One night during my stay the staff surprised me with a lit fireplace on my return from the game drive. Framed photos, one oversize, on the walls broke the visual silence. There was ample lighting in the room during the day and night; during the day from soft sunlight and at night from lamps, indoors and outdoors, including a pool light. Sunlight filtered through a skylight in the darker than the rest of the room walk-in closet.

The entrance foyer had a hat stand with two hats, two cotton wraps, and a bag for guest use during the stay. Two steps led down into the desk area, which had the working fireplace, a cabinet housing the minibar and snacks, and a river facing desk with two armchairs. The staff instructed us to always lock the cabinet and minibar as the monkeys and baboons were prone to break-ins to steal the snacks.

The center of the bedroom was taken up by an oversize fourposter wood bed (from two individual side by side beds) framed by two identical round metal night tables with adjustable metal lamps. One of them also had a telephone and the air conditioning remote control. Above them hung a mosquito net from the ceiling, which the staff spread around the bed at night during the turndown service. Scent-less white linen sheets and a white duvet covered the bed. There were complemented by three pillows of different sizes and materials. The two rooms were very similar in style and furnishings. There were two animal print style armchairs, each with a cushion, on either side against the glass wall in Room 8. In Room 9, the same space was occupied by a daybed.

Beyond the two steep steps that connected a toilet room and the walk-in closet there was ample space for luggage on both sides of the doorless entrance. Above the luggage rack there were rods for ponchos and outdoor gear. An armoire also provided hanging and shelf space as well as an electronic safe. The toilet room was at the the end of the closet. A frosted window with blinds meant there was soft sunlight there. There was another window on the opposite side in the closet.

Food Mealtimes revolved around safari activities. Kitchen staff were able to adjust to food allergies and preferences with ease. In the morning, before going out on game drive there were hot beverages and muffins. Breakfast, served after the morning game drive, included several juices, such as mint apple, fruit smoothie, and kambucha with the option of powdered wheatgrass. Although there were a few items on display in the outdoor deck our servers insisted on bringing our order to the table. When breakfast was served indoors our final morning there was a self serve buffet for the cold items. There was yogurt cereal and fruit coolie as well as a fruit platter and several whole fruits available. A hot made to order menu consisted mainly of eggs with sides such as asparagus, tomatoes, potatoes, mushrooms, sausage (pork, beef, ostrich) in various styles of preparation. There were also oatmeal, pancakes, and French toast.

The lunch and dinner menus varied daily. There were salad options with fresh and crispy greens, tacos, fish, beef, lamb, and curry dishes. We loved the Sand River riverbed views from our table at breakfast, lunch and tea.

Amenities Nightly rates included twice daily game drives, meals, snacks, and house beverages. Our rooms had many amenities including: scale, vanity mirror, complimentary water, toiletries, slippers, electronic safe, complimentary mini-bar with coffee and tea service. I particularly liked the gourmet chocolate and homemade fudge.

Facilities Work out and spa building, wine room, Singita Boutique & Gallery gift shop (a short drive away and shared with sister properties).

Pool There were two adjacent outdoor swimming pools about twenty feet long by ten feet wide and about four feet deep with a waterfall feature. Because they were in the shade the water was bracingly chilly even at midday when it was warm. There were a handful of lounge chairs and towels. I loved having a heated plunge pool in my room (about ten feet long, three feet wide and four feet deep). I also enjoyed a swim during the day in the main swimming pool. It was an outstanding combination of pool amenities.

Shop There were Africa and South Africa souvenirs, including a large selection of upscale clothing, art, jewelry, and home furnishings.

Spa I had a good spa treatment with Nonkukuleko. The spa staff were friendly and attentive.

Game Viewing Joshua Bell, who had been guiding for four years and had a Field Guide Association of Southern Africa (FGASA) Level 2 trails guide qualification, was our guide. Joshua completed his degree in Environmental Sciences at a university in Leeds, United Kingdom. Our tracker, Emmanuel Makhubela, had been tracking for over 18 years, and with Singita for over 10 years. On a previous stay he had also been our tracker. He held a FGASA Tracker Level 3 qualification. We saw the Big Five and cheetah as well as other animals, birds, trees and shrubs.

We saw the following animals during our stay: baboons, buffalo, Burchell’s zebra, bushbuck, cheetah, civet, common duiker, dwarf mongoose, elephant, giraffe, grey duiker, hippopotamus, impala, klipspringer, kudu, leopard, lion, nyala, scrub hare, spotted hyena, tree squirrel, vervet monkey, warthog, white rhinoceros, wildebeest; and flap-necked chameleon.

We saw the following trees and shrubs: Russet bush willow, marula tree, jackalberry, knob thorn, large fruited bushwillow, sycamore fig, roundleafed teak.

We saw or heard the following birds: African hoopoe, bateleur eagle, bearded woodpecker, Cape glossy starling, Cape turtle dove, crested francolin, crowned lapwing, dark chanting goshawk, fork-tailed drongo, golden-tailed woodpecker, lilac-breasted roller, magpie shrike, rattling cisticola, red-billed quelea, redbilled oxpecker, sombre greenbul, southern yellow-billed hornbill, yellow-front canary, Eagle snake brown, Black-bellied bustard, black-shouldered kite, Senegal lapwing, black-crowned night heron, ostrich, stork black.

Activities Dawn and dusk game drives in an open Toyota LandCruiser were included in the nightly rates at the lodge. We shared the vehicle with two or three other guests during our stay.

Other The only sour note were over aggressive monkeys that stole food from tables and one group that intercepted me as I walked back to my room from the spa, stealing my carton of juice with practiced ease. At meal times there was a dedicated staff member tasked with guarding the dining deck from monkeys. The Singita Sabi Sand Reserve properties were Travel + Leisure No. 3 Safari Lodges in Africa in World’s Best 2016 and No. 7 in Middle East, Africa & the Indian Ocean. The property had also received Readers’ Travel Awards 2016 (United Kingdom) of Conde Nast Travellers, No. 7 in Africa Readers’ Choice Awards 2016 (United States).

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Last Visit May 2017

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Staff members were friendly, helpful, and guest oriented almost without exception. I appreciated the thoughtful touches like lighting my fireplace one night, repairing my travel partner’s broken flip flop, petit fours at dinner on request, stocking extra fudge in my room and insights on nearby specialty shops. Singita stands out among all the five star properties in that trip for its excellent service. Kennedy, Sara, Auto, Abby and Tom were among the staff who looked after us in one way or another during our stay. Our rooms were serviced twice daily.

Would You Stay Again? Yes