Overall Impression Bad weather, malfunctioning airline computers, and poorly-trained employees caused my new bride, Sandra Wells, and I to start our honeymoon spending most of the first day running from one end to the other of the world’s busiest airport in Atlanta. We had gotten up at 3 a.m. and were sleepwalking by midnight when we arrived at The Jefferson Hotel in Richmond, Virginia. The stunning hotel lobby on two levels woke us up as we checked in, erasing some of our sour mood and tiredness.

The Jefferson was built by a Richmond importer, Lewis Ginter, who lost his first fortune during the Civil War, after serving as a major in the Confederate Army. He moved to New York, where he became rich again through banking, but lost most of his assets during a recession. At age 50, he returned to Richmond and made more millions in tobacco, sold the company, and entered real estate. He traveled the world and brought back art he planned to place in a new hotel. The Jefferson (named after his favorite president) was built at a cost estimated at $5 to $10 million (equivalent to $146 to $292 million today). It opened on October 31, 1895 and a week later, an engagement party was held on the rooftop for Irene Langhorne and Charles Dana Gibson, the famed illustrator of the Gibson Girl (the personification of female attractiveness at the turn of the century). Later guests included 13 United States presidents, among them Woodrow Wilson, Theodore and Franklin Roosevelt, Ronald Reagan, both Bushes, Bill Clinton, and Barack Obama. Others who stayed were Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald, Sir Edmund Hillary, Gertrude Stein, Charles Chaplin, Elvis Presley, and Frank Sinatra.

We have stayed some of the world’s top hotels and while other reviewers might give a property a high ranking because of, say, its restaurants, exercise facilities, or room décor, those were not our priorities. This was our best overall hotel experience ever, for the following reasons in descending order of importance: the bed (we consider ourselves connoisseurs of comfortable sleeping); the quiet environment inside and outside that part of the building; the bathroom; the unusually experienced and helpful staff (they made no mistakes in their interactions with us and were proactive in offering services, such as access to a complimentary chauffeured car); the gorgeous lobby; value for money; and The Jefferson’s colorful history (especially in the context of Richmond as a fantastic destination for history buffs).

Children All ages welcomed. There were special activities for the little ones and child care services.

Class of Accommodation Luxury hotel

Connectivity There was high speed WiFi in the room and common areas.

Handicapped Access The hotel had five Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) compliant rooms.

Head Concierge Jeanita Harris (with the hotel 30 years)

Length of Stay Two nights

Location The hotel was downtown, nine miles (15 minutes) from the Richmond International Airport and a few blocks from the oldest part of town, Shockoe Slip, whose buildings were well-preserved and had lively new businesses.

Managing Director Joseph Longo (with the hotel 17 years)

Owned Historic Hotels, Inc., owned by the Riverstone Group, part of Richmond businessman William H. Goodwin Jr.’s real estate firm.

Pets Pets were welcome, including all types of dogs, for a $50 per pet, per day fee, as long as they were trained and on a leash. Dog walking and pet sitting were available.

Size The eight story tall Jefferson was 292,000 square feet large and its land occupied an entire city block. There were 200 full-time and 100 part-time staff.

Year Opened-Renovated The hotel opened in 1895 and it had had many renovations since. In 1901, The Jefferson burned down. It reopened six years later, maintaining its original mix of Beaux Arts and Renaissance Revival architectural styles. A combination of factors caused the property to go into decline and it was closed in 1980, then restored and reopened by a developer in 1986.

In 1991, a Richmond investment group bought it and redesigned the hotel in time to host the Fortune 500 Conference two years later. In 1994, it was awarded the American Automobile Association Four Diamonds recognition. The hotel continued to receive it until another reconstruction began in 2013. The work was largely invisible to us because sections being remodeled were screened off (the plumbing, electrical, heating and air conditioning systems were completely redone). It was very near completion when we were there, turning the original 262 rooms into 181 larger ones (with an average increase of 31 percent), including 15 suites (in increasing order of price: Premier King Guestrooms, Grand Premier King Guestrooms, Grand Premier Queen Guestrooms, Richmond Suites, and Ginter Suites).

Lobby and Common Areas The Palm Court on the ground level was where most guests entered. The first space had the concierge desk on the right and the Business Center on the left (accessible 24 hours a day daily with a room key). The check-in desk was on the far side of the Palm Court. Beyond that there was a round area with couches and overstuffed chairs under a Tiffany stained-glass skylight, dominated by a marble statue of President Thomas Jefferson. A beautiful staircase linked it to the lower level’s Rotunda, with its glorious yellow marble columns and stained glass ceiling 70 feet (21.3 meters) above (in 1987, CBS News host Charles Kuralt called the Rotunda “arguably the most beautiful public room of any hotel in the country”). Original art, prints, and classic black-and-white photos of Richmond lined the walls of the hotel and rooms, while classical music soothed the soul in common areas. Also on the Rotunda level were Gators Gifts & Coffee Bar, TJ’s Restaurant and Lounge for casual breakfast and lunch, and Blooms for flowers (decorated with a humorous Easter bunny theme). There was a niche about the history of the hotel, with photos, newspaper clippings, and artifacts. The fine dining restaurant Lemaire was off the Palm Court.

Bathroom At 100 square feet (9.3 meters) the bathroom may have been the largest we have ever had. The floor was white Carrara marble from Italy. The toilet was in its own little room with a phone. The soaking tub was 47 inches long and 18 inches deep, with a capacity of 55 gallons (one of the few comfortable for my long frame). The walk-in rain shower was easy to use. There was plenty of counter space on the double sinks area, with lots of cotton balls and swabs, and an Andis Ceramic Ionic 1875 Hairdryer (alas, this, like almost all over top hotels, did not provide a comb or brush or have a mirror with strong enough light to do makeup right). The towels were oversize. There was a padded bench for dressing, like the one at the foot of the bed. The most remarkable aspect was the Electric Mirror, a TV screen set into the large mirror and operated by remote control.

Room Although the entry area had lifted our spirits after the difficult trip, it was only when we walked into our Grand Premier Room 132 (600 square feet or 55.7 meters) that we felt truly refreshed. We eagerly consumed the welcome plate of fruit, berries, and cheese ($21), while Sandra poured herself a cup of Graham Beck Brut Pinot Noir and Chardonnay ($36). There was a set of buttons by the door to let the staff know electronically whether we needed anything or did not want them to enter the room. A small bathroom was next to the door with a washcloth on the sink tied up in the hotel’s distinctive peacock fan style; there was also a vanity table and mirror next to the bathroom.

A chandelier lighted the room from a high ceiling. At one end there was a couch and overstuffed chairs around a low glass table with magazines like Preservation, the publication of the National Trust for Historic Preservation (Richmond has one of the nation’s largest number of designated historic buildings and is an architecture buff’s paradise). The table also held a Marble Queen Pothos plant (also known as Devil’s Ivy). Next to the bed was an iHome music system, which we turned off, and a dual-line telephone. The large flat-screen television had premium cable. It was about to be replaced by a 49-inch, high-def, slim-line LG, we were told.

While we appreciated room décor, which was lovely, what was most important to us was the comfort of the bed. The astonishing thing about most travel guides is that they typically fail to rate the beds, as if most people would be happy with whatever was offered, while we have found big differences. The Jefferson mattress was handcrafted and could be ordered from the gift shop, along with its extra comforter and the exceptional pillows (half feather, half down; hypoallergenic available). The sheets were 400-thread count Egyptian cotton. There was a padded bench at the end of the bed for convenience while dressing.

The next morning we looked out the windows for the first time (which we wanted to open for fresh air, but could not, the norm for hotels these days; fortunately, the air conditioning and heating controls were easy to operate). The view of the modern city was nice.

Food and Restaurants We had breakfast the first morning at the hotel’s TJ’s Restaurant and Lounge. Being lacto-ovo vegetarian, we tried the Greek yogurt, the three-egg omelet (with goat cheese, mushrooms, onions, and tomatoes), and grits (which we had never tried before). All were delicious.

That night, we went to the Jefferson’s fine dining restaurant, Lemaire, which received the 2017 AAA Four Diamond award. We spoke with Patrick Willis, executive chef, who worked his way up the kitchen ranks for a decade before his appointment nearly two years earlier. He wanted to make the restaurant a destination for locally-sourced New American Cuisine and talked enthusiastically about the farmers who work with him to provide fresh and unique items. Our main dish was the Saffron Acquerello Risotto with oyster mushrooms, roasted garlic, pea tendrils, and spiced gastrique. We tried the Manakintowne Specialty Growers Fresh Cut Lettuces, with cherry tomatoes, English cucumbers, shaved radish, pecorino, and red quinoa. We also sampled Whole Roasted Romanesco Cauliflower (petite kale, semi-dried tomatoes, pearl onions, hard-boiled egg, and black truffle vinaigrette). Portions were small, as we expect from Nouvelle Cuisine. For dessert we enjoyed the Pecan Pie Bread Pudding and Butterscotch Bourbon Anglaise.

Amenities There were Molton Brown of London toiletries in 1.7 ounce bottles. The Jefferson offered a choice of newspapers delivered at no charge, including the Richmond Times-Dispatch and USA Today (others were available for a price). The mini refrigerator was a well stocked mini-bar with high-end alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages and snacks (we did not sample any). Local phone calls were free. The closet had an electronic safe, iron and ironing board, bathrobes, and large umbrella. We did not use them, but the hotel made available six classic Dutch bikes, with helmets and combination locks, for three hour periods at no charge (arrangements had to be made for pick up with a specially-equipped SUV). We never used our in-room Nespresso coffee maker and supplies, preferring to enjoy the fresh-ground Royal Coffee served in the Palm Court at 6 a.m. (thankfully early compared with most top hotels; it also offered stevia, our favored sweetener that is often scarce elsewhere). Guests had privileges at the Young Men’s Christian Association (YMCA).

Facilities In addition to the two restaurants, The Jefferson had a spa (independently operated) and a swimming pool. A 3,000 square-foot fitness center was open round the clock. It had cardio exercise equipment with personal flat screen televisions, weight training machines and free weights, as well as massage therapy rooms, showers, and restrooms not open to the public.

Pool The indoor pool was 15 feet by 18 feet, five feet at the deepest end and three feet at the shallowest.

Conference Facilities We took a peek at the 26,000 square feet of event space oft used for conferences and weddings. The Grand Ballroom was lavishly decorated, with gold-detailed ceilings and elaborate chandeliers; the Empire Room had 30-foot windows with beautiful draperies; the Flemish Room had African mahogany paneling and silk wallpaper. The James River Conference Center was constructed from a restored private residence attached to the hotel, ideal for small groups and those needing spaces for small breakout meetings or which require extra security. The Presidential Hallway had five rooms for small meetings. Special events had been held in the Rotunda. Two executive board rooms had up to 10 seats.

Other In 2017, the American Automobile Association (AAA) bestowed The Jefferson its coveted Five Diamond Award, which emphasizes outstanding service compared with elite hotels and restaurants worldwide. The Forbes Travel Guide (formerly Mobil) also awarded it Five Stars, making the Jefferson one of only 51 properties in the United States to receive both.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Review April 2017

Reviewers

Photos and Article by Scott S. Smith

Service Our room was serviced twice daily. All staff we interacted with were self-assured and well-informed. During our stay we met Jennifer Crisp, who had been with the Jefferson for two decades (many of the staff, had served for many years, a rarity in the hospitality industry, which has an annual turnover rate of 72 percent, according to one source).

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression In 1759, Terrell’s Ordinary, a modest roadside inn that welcomed westward travelers, opened on land that was part of Virginia’s 1734 land grant, at the exact location where the Boar’s Head stands today. Since then, this lovely swath of rolling hills in the picturesque outskirts of Charlottesville, Virginia, has witnessed much history. It first became a country estate with a successful farming operation before enduring the ravages the Civil War. The property returned to life under a succession of owners before an inn, the Boar’s Head, was once again created in the mid twentieth century. It was subsequently acquired in 1989 by the University of Virginia Foundation. Today, the unique 573 acre (232 hectare), 175 guest accommodations local landmark boasts a championship golf club, outstanding sports facilities with multiple tennis and squash courts, an in house spa and an award winning restaurant.

Since my preferences tend toward intimate properties, I was a bit daunted by these numbers when originally considering the Boar’s Head for my recent visit to Central Virginia. Any doubts I may have had were dispelled as I passed through the gracious entrance gates of the property and found myself driving along a shaded country lane to the Georgian style manor that housed the reception foyer. The welcome was warm and attentive, and antique furnishings gave the public spaces the mellow atmosphere of a bygone era. Guest rooms were located on the upper floors of the historic main house and in rustic two story buildings on both sides of it. A central lawn dotted with mature trees evoked a town common of old. My own room in the Hunt Club Building, a few steps away from the main house, was decorated in muted neutral colors that showcased quality period furnishings. It also had many of the 21st century creature comforts I might have wished for, and an inviting covered balcony overlooking a tranquil lake with, on the other shore, a gentle hill dotted with flowering trees. I could have lingered there for hours.

However, there was also the property’s location, within easy driving distance of the top attractions of the greater Charlottesville area: Monticello, home of President Thomas Jefferson, and another of his great local achievements, the University of Virginia. Then just a little farther afield there were numerous wineries, art galleries and artist studios. Faced by such a wealth of options, I set out to take them all in with unbridled enthusiasm, secure in the knowledge that the Boar’s Head Spa awaited me when I returned worse for the wear at the end of the day. Rejuvenated by a most self indulgent relaxing treatment, I was ready to meet friends for a fine dinner at the award winning Old Mill Room housed in the 1834 historic mill house, the oldest structure on the property and part of the main house.

With its relaxing bucolic environment, comfortable accommodations and gracious Southern hospitality, not to forget its addictive spa, excellent restaurant and convenient location for touring the area’s attractions, the Boar’s Head became a de rigueur address for me in Charlottesville.

Children The Boar’s Head welcomed children of all ages.

Class Of Accommodation A luxury resort

Connectivity There was complimentary reliable high speed WiFi in my room and in the common areas. Mobile phone service was excellent throughout the property.

General Manager Matthew Harris

Handicapped Access There were two rooms especially designed to accommodate motion impaired guests.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location In Charlottesville, Virginia, 115 miles (185 kilometers) southwest of Washington, D.C. and 70 miles (110 kilometers) northwest of Richmond, Virginia.

Owned-Managed The University of Virginia Foundation

Pets Allowed No

Size The 573 acre (232 hectare) property had 166 rooms and nine suites. It employed a staff of 350.

Year Opened-Renovated The Boar’s Head opened in 1965. It was last fully renovated in 2011 and 2012.

Lobby And Common Areas The common areas were in the historic main inn building. With its aged wooden paneling reception desk, the reception area set the tone for the back in time atmosphere that prevailed throughout the building. Behind the desk, the original room keys, their brass holders still embossed with boars’ heads, were neatly lined up in a wall size key rack that provided an eye catching focal point (the keys have long been replaced by magnetic cards). A wooden signboard of a Boar’s Head Inn of old hung next to it. The heart of the building was a 1830’s gristmill relocated piece by piece from the banks of the nearby Hardware River to be integrated in the construction of the building in the early 1960’s.

Heartwood pine beams over 40 feet in length extended upward from the Old Mill Room restaurant through two floors of guest rooms and downward into the Hearth Room, a lower level functions room. In the Old Mill Room restaurant, the floor’s original planking still bore the scars of their previous working life and old grain bins had been reincarnated as wall paneling. Those ancient structural elements were offset by simple white plastered walls that provided an excellent backdrop for the many antique furnishings that decorated the common space. Intricately carved straight back chairs upholstered in crewel embroidery patterns sat next to early American tables, while high back rustic benches, their seat cushions covered in 18th century inspired patterns were an invitation to linger, and period credenzas displayed statues of the eponymous boar. The walls throughout held vintage photos and memorabilia that spoke of the rich history of the area, Thomas Jefferson and the inn’s connection with the University.

Bathroom The bathroom had a wall length veined marble vanity with white porcelain dropped in sink. An extra large glassed in shower occupied the opposite wall. Even the bathroom had its own historic references. A framed photograph of a close up detail of the gristmill water wheel hung above the commode and over the vanity the wall size mirror was etched with a quote by Thomas Jefferson.

Room My 300 square foot (28 square meter) room, Number 521 was located in the Hunt Club Building, just a few steps away from the Old Mill Room. It was decorated in a relaxing neutral palette of beiges enhanced by muted shades of blue and green. Its cream walls, taupe wall to wall carpeting and antique inspired furniture gave the space a timeless homelike feeling. Window dressings were a mix of rich cotton floor length draperies in a subdued floral design and translucent roman shades. A small entrance foyer with a floor to ceiling built in storage armoire led into the bedroom. The superbly comfortable king size bed with its high taupe upholstered headboard was clad in ultra high count cotton bedding. On both sides of it, pecan bedside chests held white reading lamps with linen drum shades. A matching bench with a cream and light brown striped cushion stood at the foot of the bed.

On the opposite wall, a white double dresser concealed a small refrigerator and served as a base for a large LCD television screen. A black desk chair with a sage green leather seat cushion and a blue damask medallion back stood in front of a mahogany writing desk with a pewter desk lamp. Above the desk, framed Jefferson memorabilia surrounded a round mirror in a thick distressed wood frame. A light green upholstered armchair with a circular footrest, a round contemporary black metal side table and a floor lamp completed the décor. At the far end of the room, a glass door opened onto a large covered balcony. On the opposite side of the room, an old style sliding door on a wrought iron rail separated the bedroom from the bathroom.

Food And Restaurants The flagship restaurant of the property, the Old Mill Room was open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. For 27 consecutive years it had received the AAA Four Diamonds designation “for its culinary excellence, distinctive Virginia ambiance and superior service”.

Amenities Room amenities included a coffee maker with caffeinated and decaffeinated coffee, ice bucket replenished twice daily, electronic safe and flashlight. Bathroom amenities included bathrobes and slippers, magnifying mirror, hair dryer, facial tissues, shower cap, and individual sizes of Molton Brown shampoo, conditioner, body lotion, hand soap and bath milk and honey body soap. A national newspaper was delivered daily to my room. Complimentary tea and pastries were served each afternoon in the Ordinary Room. On demand use of fishing poles, bikes and helmets was also complimentary.

Facilities The property included four restaurants, the Old Mill Room, the Café, the Birdwood Grill and Bistro 1834. There was also: 18 hole golf course, a sports club that featured 11 squash courts (eight single and two double courts, plus a fully glass enclosed show court with amphitheater seating for over 200 spectators), 26 tennis courts (12 indoor and 14 outdoor), three swimming pools, and a spa with seven treatment rooms, hydrotherapy room and nail salon.

Fitness Center And Spa There was a large fitness center in the sports club, appointed with cardio vascular fitness equipment and steam and sauna rooms. The in house spa was at the edge of the lake and a few feet away from the main building and the Hunt Club. In addition to the serene lounge with its central fountain where guests went to relax between treatments, it had six single treatment rooms including one hydrotherapy room plus one couples room. It employed a staff of eight massage therapists, three estheticians and five nail technicians. The spa appeared to be popular with local residents as well as guests and advanced reservations were a must. I felt fortunate that in spite of the short notice I could arrange a late appointment on the last day of my visit. After a full day of exploring the area and with only limited time before dinner I experienced an exceptionally effective dual treatment. While I enjoyed an exfoliating, deep cleansing and rehydrating Replenisher Facial under the expert fingers of Celia Hines, a master esthetician, Gary Sites, a massage therapist, administered a Reflexology Treatment and foot massage that relaxed my muscles instantaneously and relieved the pain in my joints. One short hour later, I felt fleet footed and positively glowing.

Pool The resort had a seasonal 64 foot by 28 foot (19.5 meter by 8.5 meter) adults only pool for guests 18 and older. Pool depths ranged from three to eight feet (one meter to 2.5 meter). It was being prepared for its annual reopening at the time of my visit. The aquatic facilities included a heated 25 meter Junior Olympic Pool with six lap lanes. It also had a seasonal round activity pool with slide and a children’s pool.

Conference Facilities The Boar’s Head had a 22,000 square feet (6,700 square meter) meeting and event space with a total of 19 meeting rooms including two ballrooms.

Other The Birdwood Golf Course had been recognized as a Certified Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary since 2006 through the Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary Program for Golf Courses, an Audubon International Program. It was one of 881 courses worldwide to hold this distinction. In 2014, the Boar’s Head received AAA Four Diamonds for the overall resort for the 13 consecutive year.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review April 2014

Reviewers Article and photos by Josette King

Service My room was serviced twice daily. Every member of the staff with whom I came in contact was friendly and efficient.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Set against the serene backdrop of the rolling hills of Central Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, Charlottesville was a gracious historic small town of 43,000 inhabitants nestled in picture perfect natural surroundings, and a vibrant city with multiple personalities. Formed by royal charter in 1762 on the trade route between Richmond and the Great Appalachian Valley, Charlottesville is best known for its historic significance as the home of Thomas Jefferson. Recognized as one of the most important figures of the American Revolution, the man who penned the Declaration of Independence and the third President of the United States, Jefferson left his indelible mark on the city. In addition to Monticello, his “little mountain” home, he also conceived and designed the University of Virginia, in the neoclassical (also referred to as Jeffersonian) style. Both are now UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Today, Monticello attracts half a million visitors annually. The University of Virginia welcomes over 23,000 students, and contributes significantly to the cultural vitality of the area.

In spite of repeated attempts, Jefferson never succeeded in coaxing vineyards to thrive around Monticello. However, in the later part of the 20th century growers began a concerted effort to revisit his vision to develop the Central Virginia vineyard. Today, there are more than 25 boutique wineries, along with a couple of larger ones in the greater Charlottesville area alone, and in the past decade they have begun producing vintages that hold their own on the international stage. These wineries welcome visitors from around the country as they make their way along the bucolic vistas along what has become known as the Monticello Wine Trail.

Central Virginia has been home to artisans and artists since early settlers brought their skills and traditions of craftsmanship to the area. Over the past two centuries they have developed into a thriving artistic community of potters, weavers, glass artists, painters, woodcarvers and other artists of varying media. Their creations can be admired in individual studios scattered along the Monticello Artisan Trail as well as in downtown galleries. Whether historic, artistic or natural, the “trails” were enjoyable itineraries that took me along charming country roads on a treasure hunt for the best the greater Charlottesville area had to offer.

It was my first visit to this lovely corner of Virginia. With the wealth of appealing options vying for my time, my four day schedule felt woefully inadequate to discover the many faces of historically and culturally rich Charlottesville. But it was a sufficient introduction to convince me that I would return at the first opportunity.

Cost Of Visiting Reasonable

Currency United States dollar

Electrical Current 120 Volt

How To Get There Most major United States and many international carriers provided daily scheduled flights to nearby Washington Dulles International Airport and Richmond International Airport. A few regional carriers also served Charlottesville-Albemarle Airport, eight miles north of the center of town. For rail travelers, there was an Amtrak station, Charlottesville Union Station, in the center of the city.

Location In central Virginia, 115 miles (185 kilometers) southwest of Washington, D.C. and 70 miles (110 kilometers) northwest of Richmond, Virginia.

Technology Reliable high speed WiFi connectivity was widely available. Cell phone reception was excellent wherever I went in the city, but erratic in the far reaches of the rural areas.

Time GMT/UTC minus five hours (e.g. U.S. Eastern Time)

Transportation With its wealth of attractions within a 20 mile (32 kilometer) radius of the city, a car was necessary to get around.

Shopping And Souvenirs Notable local shopping included Jefferson related memorabilia, wines from nearby vineyards and a wide range of art and craft offerings by local artists and artisans. There were also a number of antique and Americana shops.

Tourism Highlights

Downtown Mall The Downtown Mall, an eight block pedestrian tree shaded walkway, ran through the center of Charlottesville. It was a favorite meeting spot for locals as well as tourists. Once the town’s main street, it was now lined with restored historic brick buildings that housed antique shops, art galleries, restaurants, pubs, café terraces and all manners of fashion boutiques. At the end of the mall, the Freedom of Expression Wall was a long slab of black granite where passersby were encouraged to scroll their thoughts (in chalk).

Michie&Rsquo;S Tavern Established in 1784 by Scotsman Thomas Michie (pronounced Mickey) the tavern provided food and lodging to travelers until the mid-1800s and served as a social center to the local community. Moved 17 miles from its original site in 1928 and restored to its original design, this Historic Virginia Landmark was only half a mile from Monticello. It recreated an experience of 18th century tavern life through self-guided tours of its small museum and its Southern style buffet of fried chicken, hickory-smoked pulled pork, black eyed peas, and corn bread served on pewter platters by a staff in period calico dresses.

Monticello Artisan Trail The scenic country roads of the wine trail were also dotted with many of the artist studios and remote galleries of the artisan trail, too many to do them justice in a single visit. There were a few memorable stops. Perched high on a secluded ridge at the very end of a narrow country lane on the outskirts of Charlottesville, art dealer Lyn Bolen Warren’s gallery Les Yeux du Monde (French for eyes of the world) would have merited a detour if only for its interesting sculpture like structure by local architect W.G. Clark and its panoramic views of the Central Virginia hills. However, once inside the contents upstaged the building. The main floor housed an extensive temporary exhibit space. At the time of my visit, it showcased the recent works of American painter Trisha Orr. Equally interesting was the mezzanine studio of Bolen’s husband, painter Russ Warren, which I was also invited to visit.

My next stop took me to the Virginia Clay Studio where ceramic artist Paula Brown Steely created spectacular one of a kind equine themed pieces. In nearby Earlyville, I enjoyed meeting Suzanne Crane in her Mud Dauber Pottery studio. Crane created striking wheel thrown stoneware vessels impressed with local vegetation then glazed in brilliant jewel tone colors. The next day, I spent part of a fascinating evening at the downtown Glass Palette studio of Cara DiMassimo. Originally intending to be a painter, DeMassimo discovered her medium in glass. Each one of her unique creations, whether glass sculpture, dishware or jewelry was is a vivid piece of modern art.

The Monticello Wine Trail In 1984, the counties surrounding Monticello were designated the Monticello Viticultural Area (AVA) in recognition of the region’s nascent wine industry. When I was in the area, the Monticello Wine Trail boasted of the largest concentration of wineries in Virginia, 30 in all within 25 miles (40 kilometers) of Charlottesville. I visited several of their welcoming tasting rooms featuring wines that ranged from interesting to excellent.

My two favorites were Jefferson Vineyards and the Glass House Winery. Planted in the early 1980s on the site of Jefferson’s original experiment just a stone’s throw away from Monticello, Jefferson Vineyards was a small production winery owned for three generations by the Woodwards, a family of dedicated vintners. It offered a number of excellent varietals including Pinot Gris, Viognier and Merlot, as well as award winning Meritage and Estate Reserve wines.

The Glass House Winery was a tiny artisanal vineyard started in 2006 and opened in 2010 in Free Union, in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains just outside Charlottesville. In addition to light varietals it produced a variety of notable blended wines, such as a full bodied Italian style Barbera and their unusual Meglio del Sesso, a dessert wine made with Norton, Cabernet Franc and real chocolate. Visitors were welcome to bring a picnic and linger in the large tropical greenhouse adjoining the tasting room.

University Of Virginia Charlottesville is home to the University of Virginia, Jefferson’s “academical village” with its historic campus of neoclassical buildings. At the heart of it was the famous Rotunda designed by Jefferson.

Presidential Homes The Charlottesville area was home to three of America’s Founding Fathers who also became Presidents of the United States: Thomas Jefferson, James Monroe and James Madison. Their homes, Monticello, Ash Lawn Highland and Montpelier were open to visitors. With its quasi-palatial grandeur, manicured setting and meticulously curated exhibits, Monticello, Jefferson’s “essay in architecture” felt more like more like a museum than a home. The extensive guided visit of the first floor was supported by a narrative that articulated the importance of the property as the core of Jefferson’s world and focused on his achievements not only as a towering public figure of his time, but also as a Renaissance man.

Nearby Ash Lawn-Highland, James Monroe’s home and surrounding estate, had retained the ambiance of a working plantation. The refurbished house filled with the Monroe’s American and French furnishings (acquired when Monroe was ambassador to France) was representative of the family’s private life. A short drive farther James Madison’s Montpelier, recently restored to its original neoclassical style sat in a 2,750 acre (1,113 hectare) estate of pristine farmland, meadows and paddocks. The visit of the newly reconstituted interiors offered an insight of the lives and accomplishments of James and Dolley Madison. I especially appreciated the opportunity to visit the second floor library where Madison is said to have spend several months studying past forms of governments and pondering the guiding principles for a representative democracy, which would become the American Constitution.

Date Of Visit April 2014

Reviewers Article and photos by Josette King

Would You Visit Again? Yes

Overall Impression My evening at the Chef’s Counter of the Clifton Inn Restaurant was not a mere dinner, it was a culinary jam session where the virtuosity of the performers came through with every bite and pairings of unexpected flavors and texture were the norm. I had just been escorted through the intimate dining room with its tables formally set on white starched linen tablecloths. I had even caught a glimpse of an antique grand piano in a corner. It was the sort of place that spoke of classic fine dining with every detail. I paused at the door of the kitchen to take in the rather theatrical décor. A long row of immaculate copper pans were lined high against a coral wall and a gilded mirror was strategically placed on the far wall of the room to reflect the sparkling crystal chandelier that hung above the pale polished concrete counter. I scanned the room for television cameras and found none. I settled into my tall bar chair and got a full view the “real” kitchen, a working kitchen with state of the culinary art equipment and the organized clutter that ensures that not a single movement is wasted.

Everyone on the team was calm, focused on the moment, visibly enjoying it and yet ready to engage in conversation all at the same time. A chunk of granite materialized in front of me. On it was an artfully arranged amuse bouche, a creamy dollop of apple and fennel puree on a diaphanous crisp green leaf that disintegrated into a burst of flavor in my mouth. “That’s dehydrated ramp,” Jared Adams, the sous chef, volunteered. “It’s a kind of local wild leek. We forage it,” he added as though it was the most banal thing in the world. And in Chef Tucker Yoder’s kitchen it most likely was. A strong advocate of the farm to table principle, he adjusts his menus daily based on what looks best at the farmer’s markets and in the restaurant’s own kitchen garden. The meat is raised locally and the fish caught off the Atlantic shores, less than two hours away, someone explained to me.

The evening proceeded like a perfectly choreographed ballet, a well timed succession of delectable morsels to be enjoyed at a leisurely pace while watching creative young artists reinvent gastronomy for the 21st century. Observing the concentration of Chef Yoder as he personally put the finishing touches on every dish, and discussing the finer points of my tasting menu with whoever happened to be working nearest to me, I reflected that there was no better place to enjoy a solo meal than the Chef’s Counter. The Clifton Inn kitchen brigade created a unique dining experience for me that in and of itself would justify a return visit to Charlottesville.

About The Executive Chef Tucker Yoder’s culinary vocation was born out of necessity. “My mother became ill when I was in high school,” he explained. “I took over the cooking and discovered very quickly I didn’t have a taste for plain boiled pasta.” A realization that was eventually to take him away from his native Pennsylvania to the New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, Vermont. He first discovered Charlottesville when he stopped to see a classmate, on his way to North Carolina for an internship interview. He was sufficiently impressed by the culinary environment there that he gave up the rest of the trip and secured an internship at the Boar’s Head Restaurant instead, and returned there following culinary school.

After successively working in several area restaurants, he found his mentor in John Haywood, chef and owner of Oxo (a highly popular local restaurant at the time, now closed). With his rigorous classical training, Chef Haywood opened Yoder’s eyes to the artistry required to create superb dishes in the grand culinary tradition. Yoder then joined the Clifton Inn as sous chef in 2005 and remained for four years before being lured away by the opportunity to help launch the Red Hen, an innovative farm to table fine dining restaurant in Lexington, Virginia. He returned to the Clifton Inn to take over as executive chef in 2010. In indulging his dual passions for using just off the farm (and sometimes just foraged) ingredients and constantly pushing the limits of classic cooking, Chef Yoder has developed a personal and innovative style that delighted and surprised me with every course.

Executive Chef Tucker Yoder

Handicapped Access Yes

Location On the first floor of the Clifton Inn, in the eastern outskirts of Charlottesville, Virginia, 115 miles (185 kilometers) southwest of Washington, D.C. and 70 miles (110 kilometers) northwest of Richmond, Virginia.

Managed The inn and restaurant were managed by Niall Reid, the general manager.

Opened-Renovated The restaurant opened in 1983. The Chef’s counter was added in 2011.

Owned The whole property, restaurant included, was privately owned by Mitch and Emily Willey.

Pastry Chef Kristen Johnson

Size The dining room could seat 80 guests. The Chef’s Counter could accommodate up to seven guests. The kitchen employed a staff of five.

Sous Chef Jared Adams

Type Of Restaurant International and contemporary gourmet dining.

DÉCor-Ambiance The dining room was separated into two areas both with an intimate atmosphere and a distinct personality. The dining room was located to the right of the property’s central entrance. A period grand piano with inlays of gold marquetry enhanced the timeless elegance of the room and mirrored the color scheme of the décor. The bleached wood dinning chairs had gold upholstered seat cushions. The tables had floor length gold taffeta skirts under their white linen tablecloths and gold placemats on top. There was eggshell wainscoting on the walls, topped with wallpaper in various shades of brown.

The large double doorways leading to the Verandah dining area had heavy floor to ceiling cocoa brown drapes. Crystal chandeliers and candlestick sconces with silk shades reinforced the romantic atmosphere of the room. The glassed in Verandah dining area had a conservatory feel and a view of the garden. Square tables were surrounded with heavy wrought iron chairs with pale green cushions that matched the drapes outlining the double doors leading to the interior dining room. Lighting was provided by contemporary hurricane sconces hanging from the white shingled interior wall of the conservatory. The Chef’s Counter was in the working kitchen of the restaurant, with the active workspace taking most of the room. A wide L shaped bar of white polished concrete stood at the far end, lined with tall bar chairs to accommodate guests.

Cellars Wine And Alcoholic Beverage Selection The Clifton Inn wine list featured over 200 labels, including a good representation of local Virginia wines as well major wine growing regions of California and beyond. It included a variety of well priced wines by the glass. A range of bar drinks was also available.

Meal At the Chef’s Counter, guests had the option to choose from restaurant’s menu, which was divided into five categories: delicate, light, full bodied, robust and dessert, or select the tasting menu. I opted for the latter and what followed was a succession of memorable bite size surprises. After the aforementioned teaspoonful of pureed of apple and fennel over a wafer like ramp leaf, a ham and pea salad with chervil followed. Slivers of serrano ham garnished a small pyramid of new garden peas, perfectly crunchy and sweet, and glistening with a peppery dressing. Next came two tiny perfect radishes embedded in the sweetest of butters and sprinkled with coarse grains of sea salt (at the Clifton, the butter was home churned, and the sourdough bread home baked from three year old starter).

Roasted asparagus and field onion were served with a crumbled pistachio beurre blanc. The garden salad of delicate field greens looked as well as it tasted as if it had just been pulled from the kitchen garden. It was served with a garnish of “black dirt” (“black cocoa powder, butter and sugar lightly baked and finely crumbled,” Kristen Johnson, the pastry chef, confided). I was tempted to anoint as my favorites the grits encrusted oysters and accompanying wild mushrooms served over pureed apples and brown butter; but then, what of the duck breast, grilled exactly to my medium rare preference, served with a faro pilaf and land cress on a bed of duck stock brown sauce? For the grand finale, I had expressed my wish for “your most typically Virginian dessert.” That turned out to be an orgasmic sticky pudding with date puree, candied pecans and caramel ice cream.

Date Of Review April 2014

Reviewers Article and photos by Josette King

Service The service was excellent, friendly, attentive and professional.

Would You Dine There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression By Virginia standards, Keswick Hall might be considered a newcomer. The original mansion is, after all, a mere century old. But this exquisite property in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains embraced me with all the charm and grace of an antebellum grande dame. And like most grande dames, it had an interesting history. It began in 1908 as Villa Crawford, an 8,000 square foot (745 square meter), two-story Italianate private residence built for Mr. and Mrs. Robert B. Crawford at the original cost of $100,000. After the untimely death of Mr. Crawford in 1919, the villa passed to a variety of owners and experienced diverse fortunes over the next seven decades before ultimately falling on hard times.

By the 1980s it had come to be seen as “a mansion of senile ruin.” In 1990, Sir Bernard Ashley, widower of the noted British designer Laura Ashley, purchased the decaying property and set out to transform it into “your great uncle’s country mansion,” a world-class property where guests would feel they were staying at a grand private estate. Three years and a $25 million major construction effort later, Villa Crawford had been restored to its original opulence as the historic north wing of the 48 guest-room Keswick Hall. The transformation was so successful that I couldn’t detect any difference between the original structure and the more recent one. The atmosphere was indeed that of a grand family estate several centuries in the making. The sumptuous common areas decorated with antiques, many of them from Sir Bernard’s personal collection, exuded a warm, lived in charm.

The instant I drove up to the arched central entrance of the mansion, the legendary Southern hospitality of the staff made me feel like a welcomed family guest. A feeling reinforced when I entered my room. I was instantly seduced by its comfortable proportions and the harmony of its décor where contemporary amenities unobtrusively blended with antiques and period inspired furniture to create a warm and inviting environment. By the time I opened the French door leading to my private terrace to enjoy the sweet country air while reviewing the many activities on offer at and around the property, I was ready to settle in indefinitely. Words came to mind, heard earlier in the day during my visit to Monticello, home of Keswick Hall’s most illustrious neighbor, Thomas Jefferson. “Back then guests came for long periods of time and not only did you have to make them comfortable but you had to keep them entertained.” Keswick Hall had seen to that also, with the original billiard room restored in the north wing, a croquet pitch overlooking the Southwest Mountains, a notable golf course, multiple swimming pools and tennis courts. It even had its own courtside vineyard. And should I ever feel compelled to venture outside the estate, there were horse riding trails, visits to historic presidential homes and nearby wineries, artist studios and art galleries all a short drive away.

But for me returning home to Keswick Hall after hours exploring the best that the greater Charlottesville area had to offer quickly became the highlight of the day. It was the place where I could experience the gracious Virginia living of a bygone era, a destination unto itself to be revisited at every opportunity.

Children Keswick Hall welcomed children of all ages.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury boutique hotel.

Connectivity There was complimentary reliable high speed WiFi in my room and in the common areas. Mobile phone reception was excellent throughout the property.

General Manager Monte Hanren

Handicapped Access There were two rooms especially designed to accommodate motion impaired guests.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location Keswick Hall was located in the eastern outskirts of Charlottesville, Virginia, 115 miles (185 kilometers) southwest of Washington, D.C. and 70 miles (110 kilometers) northwest of Richmond, Virginia.

Owned-Managed Historic Hotels of Albemarle, part of the Riverstone Group LLC of Richmond, VA, a subsidiary of Bill Goodwin’s CCA Industries owned and managed Keswick Hall.

Pets Allowed No

Size The 48 room property, including one master suite, two one bedroom suites and six junior suites was nestled on 600 acres (243 hectares) of rolling hills. It employed a core staff of 160 that increased to 220 at the height of the season.

Year Opened-Renovated The original mansion, now the historic north wing, was built in 1912. The remainder of the property was built in the early 1990’s. It opened as Keswick Hall in August 1993. Since then, the entire property has been the object of on-going enhancements and updates.

Lobby And Common Areas The central main entrance of the mansion opened onto a great hall with coffered ceiling held by two columns. On both sides of the entrance hall, two inconspicuous desks served as reception and concierge area respectively. The walls, ceilings and columns of the hall were all glazed in various nuances of white to better showcase the art collection and antique occasional pieces that decorated the room. On the floor, on dark rustic clay tiles, fine oriental rugs demarcated sitting areas to create islands of intimacy in the otherwise imposing space. On the one nearest to the entrance, four wing chairs upholstered in rich persimmon velvet sat at the four corners of a large square coffee table. Small antique chests with iron fittings served as side tables. Behind this arrangement in the center of the room, a round piecrust table held two blue and white porcelain jar lamps with fluted silk shades. A tall white quarry stone fireplace occupied the center of real wall. On both sides of it, long rolled arm sofas upholstered in jade velvet faced each other across a large rectangular coffee table. An oversized square hassock covered in buttercup damask and cognac leather wing chairs completed the grouping.

On both sides of the room long hallways lead into the two wings of the mansion. They were lined with small nooks showcasing fine antique pieces such as marquetry bombe chests and pedestals with marble statues against a backdrop of oil paintings and gilded mirrors. In the north wing, the original fireplaces, wainscoting and paneling of the Villa Crawford public rooms had been restored. The dining room lounge and billiard room were reproduced with antique and contemporary furniture. A bar had been added. Made of beveled wood panels, and lined with brown leather bar chairs it blended seamlessly into the period décor. As did the assorted occasional tables that served as cocktail tables, surrounded by slipper chairs upholstered in persimmon velvet and lyre back chairs with brown leather seats.

Bathroom The white on white bathroom had an oversized bathtub and a separate shower enclosure. On the opposite wall, a long pedestal sink stood under a framed wall size mirror and a shelf that held bathroom necessities. To the left of the sink, a polished stainless steel etagere held an ample supply of sensuous Frette bath and face towels. The bathroom had a large window that opened onto my private terrace. In addition to Venetian blinds, it had a draped damask valance in shades of gold that added a touch of color to the room. The commode sat in the corner between the bathtub and the window.

Room My 515 square foot (48 square meter) Deluxe Room, Number Four, was a welcoming retreat of understated elegance with a French door that opened onto a 12 foot (3.7 meter) wide corner terrace at the southeastern end of the building. The room had a soothing neutral color scheme, with taupe wall to wall carpeting, eggshell walls and window draperies, white lacquered wood trim and dark wood furniture. In the center of the back wall, a king size spindle bed with silky high count cotton bedding faced an antique mirrored armoire. On both sides of the bed, bedside tables held reading lamps with brass candelabra bases and black parchment shades.

In the center of the far exterior wall, two jade velvet bergere armchairs and a small round coffee table sat in front of the fireplace. A gilded rectangular mirror hung over the mantelpiece. To its right, a writing desk and a wooden armchair with a green velvet seat cushion sat in a nook overlooking the terrace. A bureau that served as a base for the LCD flat panel television was tucked in the opposite corner of the room. The terrace was furnished with a wrought iron settee and three matching chairs arranged around a round table. It was the perfect place to relax while enjoying the bucolic views of the estate.

Food And Restaurants Keswick Hall offered a variety of dining options ranging from casual to formal.

A recipient of the AAA Four Diamonds Award for the eight consecutive year, Fosset’s offered classic continental cuisine with Southern accents, and a striking view of the manicured landscape of the golf course and the Blue Ridge Mountains beyond through its entire wall of floor to ceiling windows. I enjoyed breakfast as well as dinner there, my selections for both taking me to the decidedly Virginian flavors on offer.

For breakfast, I especially liked the ginger pancakes with their subtle hint of molasses, vanilla and of course, ginger, topped with a dried fruit compote. I started my dinner with a roasted mushroom nage, a creamy mushroom soup served warm with a garnish of preserved oyster mushrooms and truffled brioche croutons. My main course consisted of succulent Eastern Shore crab cakes served on a coulis of green tomatoes, sweet peas and mint with an innovative Brussels sprout slaw, an original and delicious combination of textures and flavors. For a decadent ending to my meal, I indulged in sticky toffee pudding, served with brown sugar and bourbon ice cream and a Piloncillo sugar wafer.

Amenities Room amenities included an ice bucket with ice replenished twice daily, electronic safe, under counter refrigerator, ironing board and iron. Bathroom amenities included bathrobes and slippers, magnifying mirror, hair dryer, facial tissues, shower cap, and individual sizes of Gilchrist and Soames shampoo, conditioner, body lotion, cleansing facial soap and bath soap. A national newspaper ( USA Today ) was delivered to my room daily. I also received upon check in a card with instructions and a pass code that allowed me to access the online version of The New York Times .

Facilities The property had three restaurants, Fossett’s, Villa Crawford and the Palmer Room and two bars, Fosset’s Bar and Palmer Room Bar. There was also wine cellar, 18 hole golf course, three swimming pools, fitness center, spa, and tennis and aquatic center with two each hydro clay courts, all weather surface courts and three clay courts.

Pool The 63 foot by 36 foot (19 meter by 11 meter) salt water heated infinity pool had depths ranging from four to seven feet (1.2 to 2.1 meters) and a spectacular view of the golf course. It was open round the clock and reserved for the guests over the age of 18. Located at the far end of the mansion, it acted as a reflective pool for the north side facade. It was surrounded by twelve plush lounge chairs with thick brown canvas cushions and white canvas market umbrellas.

Other In addition to its recognition of Fossett’s Restaurant, AAA has also bestowed its Four Diamonds Award to Keswick Hall consecutively for over a decade. Since 2002, the Keswick golf course has been has been recognized as a Certified Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary through the Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary Program for Golf Courses, an Audubon International Program. To date, they are one of only 30 certified courses in the Commonwealth of Virginia.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review April 2014

Reviewers Article and photos by Josette King

Service My room was serviced twice daily. It was refreshed during the evening turndown service. Every member of the staff with whom I came in contact was friendly and efficient.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression The Old Mill Room was the historical heart of the Boar’s Head. Built from the timber of an abandoned 1834 gristmill originally located along the banks of the Hardware River, it was moved piece by piece to be integrated in the construction of the inn’s main building in the early 1960’s in an effort to preserve and repurpose a valued piece of local history. The gristmill was famous for having survived the ravages of the Civil War and gone on to operate a whole six decades after it.

Everything about the Old Mill Room spoke of a bygone era. The ceilings were held by heartwood pine pillars and beams, the broad plank floors still bore the scars from long ago rolling barrels, and old grain bins had contributed the distressed wall paneling that surrounded the dining room fireplace.

Wrought iron ceiling lights and hurricane lamp wall sconces that could in earlier times have accommodated flickering candles cast a soft glow on the generously spaced tables clad in crisp floor length linen. Gleaming silver and stemware complemented the fine china. With their broad burgundy lips and discrete gold trim, the dinner plates were a nod to presidential patterns of old. Thomas Jefferson would have approved. As he would doubtless have also approved of the polished staff who were the embodiment of Southern hospitality, gracious and ever attentive while remaining unobtrusive.

Then there was the meal itself, flawlessly prepared and elegantly presented classic dishes based on local fare with imaginative twists to intrigue the palate. All of which made for an outstanding dining experience.

About The Executive Chef Bill Justus began his culinary career as an ACFEI (American Culinary Federation Educations Institute) apprentice at the Athletic Club of Columbus, Ohio, before going on to hone his skill throughout the South for over three decades. He assumed ever increasing responsibilities, including 15 years with the Opryland Hotel in Nashville, Tennessee, where he rose to executive sous chef for the 11 restaurants and lounge property. From there, he became executive chef of the Hershey Lodge in Pennsylvania and then The Callaway Garden Resort in Pine Mountain, Georgia, before joining the Boar’s Head and its landmark Old Mill Restaurant.

In addition to his commitment to supporting local producers and delivering his guests the freshest possible farm to table experience, Chef Justus was especially proud of the Boar’s Head partnership with Morven Kitchen Garden. This long time organic parcel of land gifted to the University was cultivated by students as an educational opportunity to study food production and design sustainable agricultural technologies. The cooperative program complemented the Old Mill Room sourcing from local purveyors with daily deliveries of seasonal vegetable and herbs. Chef Justus delighted in pointing out that typically, produce from the Kitchen Garden found its way to guest plates within a few hours of being harvested. The Old Mill Room menu evolved periodically to spotlight the seasonal bounty of the region. “It’s a team effort between the kitchen and the restaurant management,” said Justus. “We strive to delight our guests with innovative and stylish dishes while preserving the classic quality of our cuisine and favorite dishes.”

Chef Francisco Ayala. Although recently promoted at head of the Banquets team, Chef Ayala still had not entirely relinquished his previous responsibility as chef de cuisine of the Old Mill Room, where he still enjoyed stepping back into his previous persona and working closely with Chef Justus during exceptionally busy times.

Executive Chef Bill Justus

Handicapped Access Yes

Location The Old Mill Room was located in the Boar’s Head Inn in Charlottesville, Virginia, 115 miles (185 kilometers) southwest of Washington, D.C. and 70 miles (110 kilometers) northwest of Richmond, Virginia.

Owned The University of Virginia Foundation owned and managed the property.

Pastry Chef Erinn Le Clair, a Johnson and Wales University graduate.

Size At full capacity, the dining room could seat 160 guests. It employed a staff of 57 including 17 kitchen personnel.

Type Of Restaurant Continental gourmet dining with Virginia flair

Year Opened-Renovated The Old Mill Room opened in 1963. It was last fully renovated in 2011 and 2012.

DÉCor-Ambiance When the management of the Boar’s Head undertook the property’s renovation in 2011, their goal for The Old Mill Room was to create an environment “that was reflective of the rich history of the original building.” The outcome was a space that effectively channeled the grace of the old South. The ancient wood structural elements dominated the room. The effect was enhanced by the pale plaster outer walls, pierced by large windows covered with translucent roman shades. A fireplace painted with a dark green glaze was set in the center of the paneled rear wall. An oil painting of a local landscape hung above it. Mahogany fiddle back armchairs, their seats upholstered in buttercup damask, sat around the formally set dining tables. An oversized groaning board table, with a cluster of potted flowering plants sitting in the center, completed the elegant simplicity of the décor.

Cellars Wine And Alcoholic Beverage Selection The wine list featured almost 300 labels, including a comprehensive selection of local Virginia wines as well the major wine growing regions of California and France. There was also a sampling representative of other vineyards around the world and a variety of well priced wines by the glass. A broad range of bar drinks was also available.

Meal The Old Mill Room was open for breakfast and lunch as well as at dinnertime. Breakfast offerings, in addition to a copious buffet of Southern breakfast selection and freshly baked pastries also featured the assorted cereals, yogurts and sliced seasonal fruits many modern travelers have come to expect. A selection of Southern and international breakfast dishes was also available a la carte. My personal favorite was Wade’s Mill Grits and forest mushrooms with poached eggs.

But it was at dinnertime that Chef Justus and his team gave the full measure of their talent. My meal started with an imaginative amuse bouche of chilled watermelon enhanced by a dollop of goat cheese mousse, a delicious palate cleanser. I followed with cocoa ancho crusted scallops. The mild, smoky flavor of the ancho chili peppers coupled with the slight bitterness of the cocoa were a delicious foil for the sweetness of scallops seared to perfection. The dish was served with a garnish of cauliflower puree, and a crisp fresh fennel salad. My dinning companion opted for a creamy sun choke vichyssoise that came with smoked trout and pickled leek and declared it excellent. While there were several tempting meat and poultry options on the menu, both of us opted for fish main courses. I had a blue cornmeal crusted sunburst trout fillet. It was served with lobster succotash, tiny roasted black Peruvian potatoes and a Pernod lobster sauce that added just a hint of anise to this unusual and colorful combination. My friend had pan seared halibut. The fish had a distinctly fresh out of the water taste (yes, I purloined a bite). It was accompanied with steamed clams in a light saffron sauce, sweet roasted onion and a crisp potato galette with pebbles of chorizo to spice it up.

Both of us happened to simultaneously order the raspberry creme brulee. That is a dessert that I order often and I must declare this particular one with its thick crust of perfectly caramelized sugar and smooth caramel custard beneath rated high on the brulee scale. It was garnished with a cluster of fresh raspberries and a lovely Linzer cookie. Throughout the meal we enjoyed a crisp, herbaceous Sancerre La Porte du Cailloux. And just when we thought things couldn’t get any better our server recommended a Slider as an after dinner drink. This one was a creamy cloud like rye concoction artfully layered with coffee brandy, and topped chocolate shavings. It tasted like the ultimate indulgence, a second dessert.

Date Of Visit April 2014

Reviewers Article and photos by Josette King

Service The service was excellent, friendly, attentive and professional.

Would You Dine There Again-Recommend It? Yes