Overall Impression One of America’s oldest cities, Charleston has been considered by some the historical and cultural capital of the American South. Founded in the late 17th century in a natural harbor of the Atlantic coast, this southern-most English settlement soon developed into a hub of the Atlantic trade for the southern colonies. As the community grew, so did the cultural and social aspirations of its elite of wealthy merchants and planters. They commissioned grand public buildings as well as stately homes for their families. Although early settlers came mainly from England, colonial Charleston attracted a variety of ethnic and religious groups drawn to the developing seaport. Irish, Scottish, French and Germans arrivals brought with them several Protestant denominations, as well as Catholicism and Judaism.

In addition to its remarkable secular architecture, Charleston became known as The Holy City for the abundance of church steeples that punctuate the city’s low skyline to this day. These architectural gems have been meticulously preserved to form the Historic Downtown District. This one-and-three-quarter square mile (four-and-a-half square kilometers) of diverse neighborhoods where the romance of the antebellum South comes alive at every turn along streets shaded with palmetto trees and moss-draped oaks draws four million visitors a year.

But there is more to Charleston than the charm and mellow patina of a bygone age, or its legendary southern hospitality, or its famous Low Country cuisine rich in shrimps, crabs, oysters and fish freshly harvested off-shore. For classical music aficionados, the city was propelled to international attention in 1977 when Pulitzer Prize winning composer Gian Carlo Menotti selected Charleston as the New World counterpart to Spoleto, Italy, for his annual Festival del Due Mondi (Festival of the Two Worlds). Each year, for 17 days beginning in late May, Spoleto Festival USA draws thousands of visitors who fill Charleston’s theaters, churches and other performing art spaces to enjoy world-class performances of opera, dance, chamber, symphonic, choral and jazz music.

In late September the two-week long MOJA Arts Festival has firmly established itself over the past quarter of a century as one of South Carolina’s major cultural projects. MOJA (Swahili for “one”) celebrates the many African-American and Caribbean contributions to western and world cultures with visual arts, dance, theater, classical music, jazz and gospel concerts as well as traditional crafts, ethnic foods and children’s activities.

This was my first visit to this venerable southern grande dame . With so many options vying for my attention, my four-day schedule felt like a woefully short introduction to the many faces of the historically and culturally rich city. But while I regretted to leave so soon, I understood that for me from now on, a visit to Charleston would merely be a prelude to the next.

Cost Of Visiting Reasonable to high

Currency U.S. Dollar

Electrical Current 120 Volt

How To Get There Charleston International Airport was located 9 miles (14 kilometers) northwest of the city. Most major U.S. carriers, including American, Continental, Delta, United and Northwest Airlines provided daily scheduled flights from their respective regional hubs. Transportation from the airport to the center of town was via taxi. Public shuttle were also available and departed every 15 to 20 minutes with stops on request at downtown hotels. For rail travelers, there was an AMTRAK station in North Charleston, 10 miles (15 kilometers) from the Historic Downtown District.

Location At mid-point of South Carolina’s Atlantic coastline, on a peninsula at the junction of the Ashley and Cooper rivers.

Technology High speed internet connectivity was widely available. Cell phone reception was excellent wherever I went in the city.

Time GMY/UTC minus five hours (e.g. U.S. Eastern Time)

Transportation In the city, most tourist attractions were located within reasonable walking distance. Charleston Area Regional Transportation Authority (CARTA) offered transportation between historic downtown attractions and hotels with shuttle trolleys known as Downtown Area Shuttle (DASH). The greater Charleston urban area was served by scheduled buses, most of which were equipped with bicycle racks as part of CARTA’s Rack & Ride initiative.

Shopping And Souvenirs The Old City Market was an ideal place to shop for souvenirs. Stretched across four covered buildings from Meeting to East Bay streets, it housed hundreds of vendors selling everything from local art, jewelry, clothing and furnishing to foodstuff and the famous sweetgrass baskets that have been a Charleston tradition for three centuries. The art of basket-weaving was introduced to the area by slaves brought there from West Africa, with the tradition passed from one generation of women to the next. It is considered one of the oldest crafts of African origin in America today.

I also enjoyed browsing along King Street with its handsome brick storefronts filled with high-end antique shops, fine art galleries and designer boutiques.

Tourism Highlights With the Historic Downtown District alone boasting some 3,000 historic sites, buildings and museums, and several Civil War island sites within eyesight of the waterfront, highlights became a matter of individual preferences. These were a few of mine:

Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge Open in 2005 to replace two antiquated nearby bridges, the Arthur Ravenel, Jr. Bridge was at the time of this writing the largest cable-stayed suspension bridge in the Americas. The total structure was two-and-a-half-miles (four kilometers) in length with its main span stretching 1,546 feet (471 meters), supported by a pair of 575 foot (175 meter) high towers strung with 128 individual cables that suspend the deck 187 feet (57 meters) above the river. It linked downtown Charleston to suburban Mount Pleasant with eight traffic lanes and a 12-foot lane overlooking Charleston Harbor and the ocean, shared by pedestrians and cyclists.

Fort Sumter Built on a two-and-a-half acre (10,000 square meters) man-made shoal near the inlet to Charleston Harbor, Fort Sumter saw the first engagement of the Civil War when Confederate artillery fired on the federal fort on April 12, 1861.The Fort was reduced to rubble during the Civil War. It became a National Monument in 1948, administered by the National Park Service of the U.S. Department of the Interior. It was accessible only by tour boats. Spirit Line offered daily morning and afternoon guided cruises to the site, departing from Liberty Square in downtown Charleston where the visitors’ information center provided informational exhibits about the fort. The 45 minute cruise to the site also afforded spectacular views of the Charleston shoreline and the new Arthur Ravenel, Jr. Bridge that straddles the Cooper River a short distance upstream.

Gibbes Museum Open to the public since 1902, the Gibbes Museum of Art housed an extensive collection of American works, focusing mainly on Charleston and Southern artists and subjects. On display were a number of 19th century canvases by Charleston-born William Aiken Walker, depicting the lives of emancipated slaves in the post-Reconstruction era and some vibrant watercolors by Alice Ravenel Huger Smith, an early 20th century leader of Charleston’s artistic renaissance. The Gibbes Museum of Art was at 135 Meeting Street.

Museum Mile In the heart of the city, an easily walkable one-mile section of Meeting Street offered the highest concentration of cultural sites. Known as Museum Mile, it comprised six museums, five major historic houses (including the National Historic Landmark Nathaniel Russell House and the 1772 Hayward-Washington House, town-home of Revolutionary War patriot and signer of the Declaration of Independence Thomas Heyward, Jr.), ten places of worship and six historic buildings, including the Charleston Country Courthouse and City Hall.

Saint Michael’S Episcopal Church Located at 80 Meeting Street, this National Historic Landmark was the oldest church in Charleston and considered one of the finest examples of colonial churches in America. Its distinctive 185 foot steeple (56 meters) was used as an observation post and navigational landmark during the Revolutionary and Civil wars. The giant classical portico was a late nineteenth century replica of the original one that was seriously damaged in the 1886 earthquake. The church’s interior had retained its traditional 18^th century English design with a three-sided second story gallery.

Carriage Tour After exploring of the Museum Mile, I headed two blocks East to a big red barn on Guinart Street, the starting point for the Palmetto Company mule-drawn carriage tours (mules are well adapted to the heat and have long been the beast of burden of choice in the South). The open, fringed-top carriages could comfortably carry up to twelve passengers. Our destination was The Battery at the southern tip of the peninsula where the Cooper River meets the harbor. During our one-hour, thirty-block ride, our knowledgeable driver-guide and his two good-tempered beasts took us on a journey back in time to some of the most picturesque areas of the city.

We meandered along the cobbled streets of the French Quarter to East Bay Street where we paused to admire a colorful string of pastel-colored 18th century Georgian townhouses known as Rainbow Row. From there we continued on to East Battery Street with its line of towering waterfront mansions that still bear witness to Charleston’s heydays. The homes ranged in origins from early 19th to early 20th century, in a variety of styles from Italian Renaissance and Greek Revival to Art Deco. From their roof tops, Charlestonians witnessed the firing on Fort Sumter that sparked the Civil war. Our guide pointed out number 9 East Battery, where the remains of a confederate canon were still embedded in a dormer room (the canon exploded and a piece of it landed on the house). The carriage ride was a relaxing way to discover great swaths of the city and identify points of special interests to be revisited at leisure.

Date Of Last Visit July 2008

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Would You Visit Again? Yes

Overall Impression Tucked away in the garden of the regal Wentworth Mansion, a vine-shaded trellised walk led to the green door of a charming pink brick cottage. Behind this unassuming facade, a memorable dining experience awaited: Circa 1886, the domain of award-winning chef Marc Collins, who has been in residence for almost a decade. The “cottage” was in fact the beautifully restored 19 ^th century carriage house the mansion. Its restoration was a remarkable blend of original elements (such as the heart-of-pine floors and stable doors) and seamlessly integrated reconstruction features like elegant vaulted booths, boxed ceilings and flattering lighting. The timeless elegance of the décor was an appropriate metaphor for Chef Collins’ style as he wove together elements of traditional southern cuisine and modern French gastronomy to create an imaginative menu of understated sophistication.

About The Executive Chef A defining influence of Chef Collins’ career is his interest in regional culinary traditions. After graduating from the Pennsylvania Institute of Culinary Arts in Pittsburg, Pennsylvania he headed for San Antonio, Texas, and the prestigious La Mansion del Rio where he honed his skills under French Chef Guy Collinet. Later he worked at La Louisiane where French cuisine took on a strong Cajun accent, before moving on to the Fairmont Hotel, where he became executive chef in 1996. He was lured to Charleston and its historic tradition of blending French, English and Caribbean cuisines in 2001, to take over as executive chef of the newly opened Circa 1886. Chef Collins immediately made his mark, going from being singled out as chef to watch by Esquire Magazine in 2001 to leading Circa 1886 to its current status as a AAA Four Diamonds and Mobile Four Stars winner.

The son of an artist, Chef Collins grew up in an environment that encouraged creativity, a mindset that he brought to the preparation and presentation of every dish served at Circa 1886. His cooking emphasized an intriguing modern approach to traditional Southern cuisine, based on seasonally available local products, as well as sustainable and rebounded local fish and seafood. He found inspiration in antique cookbooks of the area as a departure points for some of his signature dishes, such as crab cake soufflé (made with mango purée) and his spicy grilled shrimp over fried green tomatoes with chow-chow. Chef Collins is a founder of the Charleston Food + Wine Festival that premiered in 2006. The yearly weekend festival gives participants the opportunity to meet and get a taste of some of the cuisine of the country’s best chefs.

Executive Chef Marc Collins

Handicapped Access The restaurant was located on the ground floor and wheelchair accessible .

Location On the grounds of the Wentworth Mansion

Opened-Renovated The restaurant opened in 2000, in the renovated carriage house of the Wentworth Mansion.

Owned And Managed Richard T. Widman and Marc Collins, executive chef

Pastry Chef Scott Lovorn

Size The main dining room seated 50; the adjoining bar could accommodate 14. An upstairs function room, the Tack Room, was available for private receptions up to 40 guests. Circa 1886 employed a staff 20.

Sous Chef Richard Barlion

Type Of Restaurant Intimate luxury gourmet dining

DÉCor-Ambiance Understated, timeless Southern elegance. The lower part of the walls was covered with elaborate wood paneling in a light antique finish topped by taupe wall paper with deep red accents. The large, square dining tables were surrounded with chairs upholstered in mellow 19 ^th Victorian taupe and burgundy designs. A lovely antique credenza holding a large flower arrangement and framed prints completed the décor. The back wall was occupied by three deep, spacious booths with vaulted ceilings and subdued lighting that added a touch of intimacy to the space. They appeared to be a favorite for romantic celebrations.

Cellars Wine And Alcoholic Beverage Selection The 275 labels wine list focused mainly on offerings from the main wine regions of France and Italy, including a good selection of well-priced wines and champagnes by the glass.

Meal The amuse-bouche of chilled watercress vichyssoise finished with truffle essence was an omen of the delights to come. With the first course menu offering one of my all time favorites, my decision was easily made. I started my meal with a generous slice of fresh foie gras seared to perfection. It was presented on a glaze of Myer’s rum and garnished with bittersweet chocolate bread topped with a small scoop of banana gelato. Pure delight! The overall sweetness of the dish was sufficient that I declined my server’s thoughtful suggestion of the glass of Sauterne often served with foie gras . I continue enjoying instead the flute of Veuve Clicquot Brut I had selected as an apéritif . Another first course had held my interest, albeit not sufficiently to make me renounce the foie gras. It was a most original trio of cold melon-based soups, that my server, Peter, thoughtfully arranged to have me taste as well.

The trio, a honeydew soup with a garnish of pickled ginger, a cantaloupe soup sprinkled with specks of country ham in a reduction of aged balsamic vinegar, and an especially interesting watermelon-cucumber soup, where both concoctions were served side-by-side in a contrasting red and green display topped with finely chopped cilentro gelée . Served in espresso cups, my tasting-size portions made an exquisite palate cleanser between the foie gras, and the Key Lime Scallops main course. My entrée consisted of three giant seared scallops, each served on a small basil-corn flap jack, and topped puréed buttered carrots, heart of palms and spring peas respectively, for a creative tri-colored presentation. It was a light but satisfying dish that let the delicate, just-off-the-boat sweetness of the scallops come through.

Because I can never resist an extravagant chocolate desert, I chose the Chocolate Hot and Cold assortment. Although excellent, this all-chocolate sampler turned out to be the least interesting part of my meal, or so satiated was I from the delights of the preceding courses that I was not able to do it justice? Hard to know for sure, but what is certain is that my dinner at Circa 1886 stood out as a highlight of my visit.

Other The restaurant is named for the year the mansion was built

Reservations Strongly recommended, especially on weekend and during the summer season.

Date Of Review July 2008

ReviewersArticle and photographs by Josette King

Service The service was superb, precisely orchestrated but friendly and unhurried. Although it was early in the week, every table was occupied, but my server seemed to appear by magic at the precise instant when he could answer a question or a wish, or to refill my glass of San Pellegrino water served at the correct temperature, chilled but not iced.

Would You Dine There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression At the Wentworth Mansion any previously held notions on romantic residences were immediately surpassed; and the word had clearly gotten around. As I arrived, I met a local couple checking in. They shared they had chosen the Mansion to celebrate their 40 ^th wedding anniversary. A few hours later, when I went up to the rooftop cupola to enjoy the sunset, a young couple was already there, sipping a glass of vine. They confided they had come from Virginia to celebrate their first wedding anniversary. Our conversation was soon interrupted by an exclamation of joy coming from the other side the cupola, followed by sobs of happiness. A marriage proposal had just been accepted. Two anniversary celebrations and a proposal; and I had been here barely half a day!

Obviously, these happy couples already knew what I was about to discover. What could be more romantic than a visit to the great antebellum mansions of Charleston? A stay at one of the grandest. The Wentworth Mansion was built in 1885-1887 as the private home of a wealthy industrialist. The magnificent four-story Second Empire-style manor stands in a quiet residential neighborhood shaded by ancient magnolia trees. When the original owner, Francis Silas Rogers, built the 14,000 square foot (1,300 square meters) mansion, he commissioned a masterpiece of old world opulence for his family of 13. The Mansard roof of the four-story structure was topped by a cupola surrounded by a roof-deck that revealed a panoramic view of the Charleston skyline. The front entrance double-doors were a masterpiece of jewel-toned stained glass panels by Louis Comfort Tiffany.

In every room, the marble fireplaces were hand-carved; the double parlor chandeliers were custom made of Austrian crystal. One century later, the present owners have meticulously returned the property to its Gilded Age splendor (with the welcome addition of twenty-first century amenities such as central air conditioning and oversized whirlpool bathtubs). The 850 pound (385 kilogram) carved mahogany pocket doors that divided the parlors still glided smoothly at the touch of a finger. And the legendary Southern hospitality of the staff, unfailingly courteous and attentive to the smallest detail of my comfort was still in evidence.

I treasured my stay as a rare opportunity to feel a welcome guest in a magnificent private home of a gracious bygone era. It was an exceptional experience that made the Wentworth Mansion a destination unto itself.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury boutique hotel

Connectivity It was easy to connect to the internet with the Mansion’s complimentary wireless internet access which was fast and reliable. My cellular phone connection was excellent.

General Manager Robert (Bob) Seidler

Handicapped Access The building was wheel-chair accessible via a ramp to the back door. Guest rooms were accessible by elevator. Room Number Three also featured wheel-chair friendly wide doors and a roll-in shower.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location The Wentworth Mansion was located in heart of Charleston’s Downtown Historic District at the corner of Wentworth and Smith streets, within easy walking distance of most historic attractions, museums and shopping.

Owned-Managed Richard T. Widman

Size The four-story mansion housed all common areas, 17 guest rooms and four suites. It employed a staff of 40, including 20 restaurant staff. Circa 1886, and a 1,000 square foot (92 square meter) spa were located in the former carriage house, separated from the main house by a small garden.

Year Opened-Renovated The property opened in 1998, following a complete 18-month restoration and is the object of ongoing minor renovations

Lobby And Common Areas The entrance foyer was, literally, breathtaking! It took self-control not to gasp at the museum-quality Tiffany stained glass double doors. The L-shaped heavy mahogany concierge desk became irrelevant, as my eye was drawn to the right, where the front parlor revealed sparkling crystal chandeliers hanging from the sky-high boxed ceiling, their reflection diamond-bright in the soaring mirror above the elaborately carved marble fireplace.

To the left of the foyer the cozy Harelston Parlor was a favorite with guests. The gleaming mahogany wainscoting and shelving, and the19 ^th century grandfather clock cheerfully marking time in the corner made the room especially inviting. To the left, a heavy Victorian chest held a lemonade and ice-tea service in the afternoon. A gray velvet high-back sofa served as a divider in the center of the room. It faced the marble fireplace and was flanked by two dark rose velvet overstuffed armchairs. Behind the sofa, an oval table framed by two salmon-colored upholstered armchairs displayed a large arrangement of flowers color-coordinated to the chairs. The flowers were replaced in the late afternoon, when wine and hors d’oeuvres were served in the parlor, by tempting tidbits brought warm from the Circa 1886 restaurant kitchen. The floor was covered by a room-size Aubusson rug in shades of black and pale gray.

Behind the parlor, a wall of windows running the length of the sunroom overlooked the back garden. The sunroom was furnished with grouping of white wicker wingchairs upholstered in sage green and cream windowpane print cotton. The windows were decorated with roman shades in white and green florals. Along the interior wall, a harvest table was permanently set up with crystal glasses and decanters of brandy and whisky.

Bathroom The 200 square foot (22 square meter) bathroom was exceptionally spacious and luxuriously appointed, with an oversized whirlpool bathtub sharing a wall with the large glass-enclosed walk-in shower. The opposite wall accommodated a clothes closet and a mirrored vanity. The water closet was in a separate room at the end of the bathroom. The ceramic tiled floor was an interesting plaid-like pattern of brown, black and white tiles; the walls had a subdued beige and pink striped wall paper over white-lacquered wainscoting. A large window provided a lot of natural light and overlooked the top of tall magnolia tree in bloom.

Room My 465 square foot (43 square meter) room, Number 15, was nearly square in shape, and large enough to dwarf the king-size sleigh bed centered on the left wall. It was flanked by two bedside bureaus with reading lamps. One of the bureaus concealed a small refrigerator. A tufted rose and burgundy velvet bench outlined the foot of the bed. On the opposite wall, a large armoire held the television and sound system and storage drawers. A large marble gas fireplace topped by a wall mirror was framed by two large windows that soared to the 14 foot (4.25 meter) ceiling. In front of the fireplace, two carved Victorian armchairs and a footstool upholstered in rose jacquard material were an inviting place to relax after exploring the town. A black oriental writing desk and a comfortable upholstered antique desk chair completed the décor. The walls were mahogany wainscoting topped by sage green painted plaster. The wide planking polished hardwood floor was covered with an oriental rug in mellowed shades of sage green and burgundy on a pale gray background.

Restaurant Complimentary morning breakfast was a generous buffet served in the carriage house, in the Circa 1886 dining room. Offerings included fruits, cheeses, charcuterie, smoked salmon, hard boiled eggs, hot breakfast strudels, breads and pastries, cold cereals, waffles made on demand, and the most delicious grits I have ever tasted.

At dinner time, Circa 1886 became a superb AAA-Four Diamond, Mobile Four-Star restaurant. See separate story.

Amenities In the Harelston Parlor, afternoon tea and lemonade were served from 2 to 4 PM, followed by wine and hors d’oeuvres from 5 to 6 PM. A whisky and brandy service was permanently set in the sun room. Complimentary breakfast was served in Circa 1886. There was complimentary parking.

In room amenities included complimentary wireless internet access and a daily newspaper. The in-room refrigerator was stocked with complimentary bottled water, soft drinks and peanuts; following the turn down service I found home-make chocolate truffles. The room was serviced twice a day. In the bathroom, there were bathrobes, an ironing board and an iron. There were Gilchrist and Soames toiletries: shampoo, conditioner, cleansing oatmeal bar, facial soap, bath gel, loofah body scrubber, body moisturizer and shower cap; cotton swabs, cotton balls, fingernail file, make-up cleansing towelettes, a make-up magnifying mirror, and a hairdryer.

Facilities Circa 1886 Restaurant and Bar, and The Spa at Wentworth Mansion

Spa Open in 2004, the spa consisted of one facial and two massage rooms, including one for couples, a dressing room and a seating area. Located in the former carriage house, the Spa at Wentworth Mansion was operated by Urban Nirvana, a local day spa company. It offered a range of treatments including massages, wraps, scrubs, and skin care treatments. Most treatments could also be administered in-room for guests at the Mansion by prior arrangement.

I had the pleasure to visit the spa, where manager Rebecca Roberts, an expert massage therapist with over 1,000 hours of training, customized a massage for me. She integrated several techniques to sooth away from my body two days of intense exploration of the historic district to leave me energized for more discoveries. Pure bliss!

The spa used all natural products, including a line of natural marine products from Phytomer, a pioneering marine cosmetology laboratory from Saint Malo, France.

Other The Wentworth Mansion was a member of Small Luxury Hotels and Historic Hotels of America. At the time of this writing it was the only hotel is Charleston to hold the coveted AAA-Five Diamond rating. It also held a number of high ratings from several prestigious international travel and tourism publications.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review July 2008

ReviewersArticle and photos by Josette King

Service Outstanding. Every member of the staff I encountered was genuinely gracious, efficient and proactively helpful.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes