Overall Impression Nestled on a gentle slope overlooking the pristine waters of Squam Lake in the southern foothills of the New Hampshire White Mountains, The Manor on Golden Pond has long been an idyllic retreat from the steamy New England summer. When wealthy British businessman Isaac Van Horn originally built the property as a summer home in 1904, he created an elegant country manor that reflected his English heritage; a pale yellow stucco and wooden shingle two-story residence that blended gracefully within its surroundings of rolling lawns shaded by ancient pine trees. The house remained a private home until the 1940’s when Harold Fowler, Life magazine editor, converted it into the Holderness Photographic Colony. In the 1950’s, it became an inn. During the next half century, it experienced a succession of ownerships and remodeling efforts before being acquired in 1999 by its current owners who painstakingly restored it to its original early 20 ^th century elegance.

Van Horn is said to have hired teams of artisans from around the world to build his home. The quality of their efforts can once again be enjoyed throughout the original two-story home. In all the public areas, intricately carved golden oak corbels support heavy ceiling beams polished to a soft gleam. An opulent banister outlines the staircase leading to the second floor guest rooms. In the lounge, library and billiard room (now the intimate dining room of the Van Horn restaurant) imported marble and ceramic tiles surround the fireplaces. And period leaded glass picture windows open onto sweeping views of Squam Lake and densely forested hills beyond. Meanwhile a one-story wing was attached off the library to house spacious suites and rooms where whirlpool baths, steam showers and modern wood-burning fireplaces add contemporary luxuries to this charming country inn.

The Manor’s well-tended grounds were equally inviting, with an oversized outdoor swimming pool, classic clay tennis court and croquet course all within a few steps from the house. In addition to the romance of the Manor, the lake offered a magic of its own. Traditional Adirondack chairs were strategically placed on the lawns to face the best views of the water. The Holderness Harbor on Squam Lake was a mere ten-minute walk down the hill, where kayaks and other small crafts could be rented to enjoy many water-sports opportunities. I opted for a private motorboat cruise instead, that took me to the tiny beaches and secluded coves immortalized by Katherine Hepburn and Henry and Jane Fonda as the setting for their award-winning 1981 movie On Golden Pond . Very little had changed around the lake since then. Even the loons were still around to greet me with their soulful call.

I thoroughly enjoyed the timeless elegance of The Manor, its luxurious accommodations, intimate country setting and the friendly personalized service from its polished staff. It was an ideal base to explore the traditional craft and art galleries that have settled in the tiny historic towns near the lake, or simply enjoy the lush New England vistas. The Manor on Golden Pond made my short list of Northeast inns to revisit and recommend, whether for a gathering with friends or a romantic get-away.

Children The inn welcomed children over the age of 12

Class Of Accommodation Luxury boutique hotel

Connectivity There was reliable complimentary WiFi Internet connectivity throughout the property. Mobile phone reception was notoriously unpredictable throughout the New Hampshire White Mountains area. My own service was erratic around town and at The Manor. At the time of my visit, boosting equipment was being installed at the inn to remedy this inconvenience to the guests.

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location The Manor was located in the southern foothills of the White Mountains of New Hampshire, a two-hour drive from Boston, Massachusetts and a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Montreal, Canada.

Owned-Managed Brian and Mary Ellen Shields

Pets Allowed No

Size The 14-acre (6 hectare) property had 24 rooms including two suites. It could accommodate a maximum of 51 guests and employed a staff of 25.

Year Opened-Renovated The property was acquired in 1999 by its current owners who completely renovated it.

Lobby And Common Areas The common areas had the feel of an English manor, with ceilings held high by polished oak beams, and walls paneled with beveled wainscoting topped with white plaster. The windows had leaded diamond pane windows. The floors were polished hardwood throughout.

From the main entrance, a small foyer opened into a formal lounge that occupied the center of the house. To the left, a wall-size mirror topped a black and white veined marble central fireplace. A taupe rolled arm camelback sofa faced the fireplace across a large flowered needlepoint rug. Two wing chairs upholstered in soft green wool framed the fireplace, each with a small side table of carved mahogany next to it. A central coffee table held a chessboard and an assortment of current magazines. Behind the sofa a pair of table lamps with fluted pewter bases and pleated silk shades sat on a cabriole leg credenza. In front of the picture window, perched on an English Regency sideboard, a tall ceramic rooster stood guard by the iced tea and lemonade service available throughout the day. Against the back wall, under a yellow stained glass window that opened onto the bar, a low bookcase held an assortment of contemporary books and a stack of board games. Along the remainder of the rear wall, a rectangular occasional table stood between two open arm side chairs covered in persimmon upholstery. A taupe rolled arm armchair provided additional seating. A 19 ^th century landscape painting and two framed etchings hung from the back wall. The reception area occupied the right side of the lounge. Against the right wall of an ornate staircase a heavily carved banister led to the second story of the inn. At the rear right of the reception area, a short hallway with built-in shelves that doubled as a gift boutique led to the Van Horn restaurant.

To the left of the lounge, on both sides of the fireplace, wide doorways opened onto the library. Here white plaster walls offset the dark wood paneled ceiling. A brick fireplace occupied the center of the wall separating the library from the lounge. At a right angle to the fireplace, a pair of rolled arm love seats upholstered in a taupe and cream checkered pattern faced each other across a round rustic coffee table. A pale flowered rug covered the hardwood floor. The sofas had toss pillows in botanic print chintz. Near the fireplace, a round occasional table draped in white cotton with a chintz overskirt held a china table lamp and a bowl of wooden fruit. On the opposite side wall, built-in bookcases displayed an assortment of classic and contemporary books, knickknacks, and a variety of movies in DVD and VHS formats, including several copies of On Golden Pond . In front of the bookcases, two side chairs covered in red, blue and tan plaid sat across a rectangular weathered oak table. The front wall had triple French doors that opened onto a deck overlooking the lawn and the lake. Draperies were natural cotton. The back wall held two yellow stained glass windows and an archway leading into the bar.

Bathroom The bathroom floor and the walls of the oversized walk-in steam shower were tiled in pale ceramic. A white fluted pedestal sink and matching commode stood side by side against the wall opposite the shower. A large rectangular mirror hung above the sink, with a wall-mounted magnifying mirror next to it. To the left of the entrance door, narrow built-in shelving held toiletry amenities and provided enough storage space for personal items. The walls were wallpapered in sunny yellow and blue plaid.

Room My 450 square foot (42 square meter) suite, the Sandwich, was decorated in a palette of pale yellows and periwinkle blues, with teal wall-to-wall carpeting and white lacquered woodwork throughout. In the sitting room, a bay window framed by swags of yellow and blue chintz overlooked the front lawn. In the center of the left wall, the eye-level wood-burning fireplace was faced in dark green marble. Next to it a built-in kitchenette had a bar sink set in a white ceramic countertop, a mirrored backdrop and an under-counter refrigerator. A 21-inch flat panel television screen and a DVD-VHS player were recessed in a cabinet above the kitchenette unit. A round cherry pedestal table and two traditional Tappan ladder-back chairs sat to the left of the window. A love seat upholstered in heavy periwinkle cotton with yellow pin-dot flowers and a matching armchair and footrest provided seating. A small scalloped piecrust end table and a brass floor lamp with a botanical lampshade (where dried field flowers are pressed between two layers of parchment paper; a local craft) sat next to the sofa. To the right of the suite’s entrance door, an alcove open to the bedroom held an oversized triangular whirlpool bathtub. Both walls of the alcove were completely mirrored. On the bedroom side, accordion doors could close out the bathtub.

In the bedroom, the king size bed had a walnut pediment headboard. The bed was covered with a thick white textured cotton coverlet over a green tailored cotton skirt. On both sides of the bed, a bedside table held a tall brass candlestick reading light with botanical lampshade. At the front of the room, a French door opened onto a private deck with two lounge chairs. A tall, six-drawer bow front bureau stood to the right of the door. A 19 ^th century bergère upholstered in peach and cream striped cotton completed the décor. To the left of the entrance to the bedroom, a built-in closet provided ample storage, and a door led to the bathroom.

Food And Restaurants The award-winning Van Horn Dining Room was located in the once billiard room of The Manor. Now it provided a romantic setting to enjoy the imaginative menu of New American cuisine prepared with fresh local ingredients by Chef Peter Sheedy, and the well-chosen wine list. The Van Horn also featured a full vegan degustation menu by prior request. See separate story. The Manor complimentary breakfast was served in the Van Horn. It consisted of a generous menu of cooked-to-order breakfast offerings as well as a cold buffet of cut fruits, granolas, yogurts, breads and pastries.

M Bistro featured healthful organic food in a casual environment. It was a seasonal restaurant open only from Memorial Weekend until November 1.

With its subdued lighting, dark paneling and small copper-topped tables, the Three Cocks Pub offered a convivial yet intimate environment for pre and post-dinner drinks. In addition to the standard bar offerings it featured a menu of Manor specialty cocktails.

Amenities There were lemonade and iced tea in the lounge throughout the day and afternoon high tea was served daily at four o’clock in the library. Suite amenities included an automatic coffee machine with an assortment of tea and coffee capsules and dairy creamer, home-baked cookies at turndown time, iron and ironing board, wine glasses and votive candles. Bathroom amenities included hairdryer, plush bathrobes and an exceptionally large supply of oversized bath towels. There was a small sewing basket, a box of tissues, cotton balls and swabs, nail files, shower caps, facial towelettes. Toiletries were individual sizes of Verbena shampoo, hair rinse, body wash, body lotion and facial soap by Occitane.

Facilities There were two restaurants, Van Horn Dining Room and M Bistro, a bar, the Three Cocks Pub, Seasons spa, outdoor clay tennis court and swimming pool.

Pool The 16-foot by 30-foot (5 meter by 9 meter) outdoor pool was set in the center of a large concrete apron with a row of contemporary white and green striped lounge chairs lined along the length of it. Three round tables surrounded by white chairs sat under green canvas umbrellas on the opposite side of the pool. A small cabana held stacks of self-service pool towels.

Spa The 700 square foot, three treatment-rooms spa, Seasons, was located at the rear of the property.

Other The Manor on Golden Pond and The Van Horn Dining Room were both awarded the coveted 2011 AAA Four Diamond rating, a recognition they have maintained for over a decade.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review August 2011

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service The suite was serviced twice daily. It was fully refreshed during the evening turndown. The friendly, personalized attention from every member of the staff with whom I came in contact was remarkable. The restaurant servers remembered my breakfast beverage preference and set it in front of me as soon as I sat down. The household staff seemed to intuitively know when I was in the dining room and serviced my suite before I returned. When I called the reception desk one evening to mention that the television remote control unit seemed to malfunction, a cheerful host was knocking at my door to assist immediately after I put down the phone.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Tucked in the rolling hills of central New Hampshire, Squam Lake has provided discriminating New England families with an escape from the sizzling summer heat for over a century. Starting in the latter part of the 19 ^th century, a few wealthy Bostonians built summer homes in the lush forested slopes around the 6,791-acre (27.50 square kilometer) lake, and discrete boathouses along its convoluted shores. It was then considered unhealthy to sleep near the water. Although such misconceptions have long since vanished and cottages have joined the rustic boathouses on the shore, they are barely discernible among the shoreline vegetation. The lake has retained its secluded atmosphere. Time moves slowly in the southern foothills of the White Mountains. Even Hollywood couldn’t shake this idyllic spot out of its torpor beyond the summer of 1980 when it chose Squam Lake as the setting for the award-winning film On Golden Pond, starring Katherine Hepburn and Henry and Jane Fonda. A dynamic woman who was a girl vacationing on the lake that star-studded summer took me for a morning long speedboat cruise to the spots highlighted in the movie. Nothing seemed to have changed in the intervening three decades. There were amazingly few crafts on the water, and all the remote fishing spots, tiny beaches and diving rocks still looked the same. Even the loons were still here, smoothly gliding around the water and teaching their young to fish.

While the pristine lake invited all manner of water sports, and the forested hills were superb for hiking, the charm of the Squam Lake area went beyond nature tourism. The villages that dot the nearby country roads, once agricultural communities and lumber camps, trace their roots back to the mid-18 ^th century. They too retained the relaxed pace and understated charm of a bygone era, even as they welcomed tourists in ancient homes meticulously restored into country inns and centuries-old barns turned art galleries. The area has maintained its rich tradition of crafts. As early as 1926, a local woman, Mary Hill Coolidge, pioneered the Sandwich Home Industries to encourage and preserve early crafts and provide an outlet for them. Over the decades, Sandwich and its surroundings have become a thriving colony for artists and craftsmen, imparting a new vitality to this sleepy rural area. This rich creative atmosphere has also spurred the rise of several imaginative chef-owned restaurants where talented chefs using local products work their own artistry in the kitchen.

Yet, for all its natural, historic and artistic assets and its easy access from many of New England’s urban centers, I found the Squam Lake area remarkably uncrowded. Whether kayaking to the tiny islands sprinkled around the lake or driving along meandering country roads bordered with wild flowers, I found myself rejoicing at having discovered such a well-kept secret. I thoroughly enjoyed my days in the cool serenity of Golden Pond. I intend to revisit it as the changing seasons give the area a whole new appeal; starting with autumn, the famed New England foliage season, when the changing leaves paint the hills in vibrant shades of copper and gold. And next time, I may even let friends in on the secret.

Cost Of Visiting Reasonable

Currency U.S. Dollar

Electrical Current 120 Volt

How To Get There Most major U.S. and several international carriers provided daily scheduled flights to the nearby Boston Logan International Airport and Montreal Trudeau Airport. A few U.S. regional carriers including Continental Express, Delta Connection, Southwest Airlines and United Express as well as Air Canada also served Manchester Boston Regional Airport in Manchester, New Hampshire, a one-hour drive south of Squam Lake.

Location In the southern foothills of the White Mountains in mid-state New Hampshire, a two-hour drive from Boston, Massachusetts and a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Montreal, Canada.

Technology High-speed Internet connectivity was widely available. Mobile phone reception was erratic throughout the area. I quickly identified spots where I could reliably expect a connection and made sure to include at least one of them in every itinerary.

Time GMT/UTC minus five hours (e.g. United States Eastern Time)

Transportation Although distances were relatively short to reach the many attractions and tiny villages near the lake, a car was necessary.

Shopping And Souvenirs With its lovely galleries and Home Industries shop, Center Sandwich was an art and craft shopper’s delight, offering enough variety to suit most interests and quality to satisfy discriminating customers. For souvenirs seekers The Old Country Store, founded in 1781 in Moultonborough, a 15-minute drive east of Center Harbor (or a 30-minute drive east of Holderness) was worth a detour for its kitsch factor. While most of the items were the usual array of unmemorable regional knickknacks and T-shirts, the sheer quantity and variety packed in the store’s city block-size maze was worth a short stop.

Surroundings Gallery Located in a beautifully restored, light-filled barn in the center of town, this inviting gallery showcased original fine art and folk art works in a variety of media from locally connected artists. Surroundings also carried a number of delightful illustrations by David McPhail, a children’s books author and illustrator.

Meanwhile in a 19 ^th century barn at the edge of town, the Patricia Ladd Garega Gallery focused on contemporary art in varied medias by established and emerging artists.

Boating On Squam Lake with Captain Cindy O’Leary’s of Experience Squam Excursions. Her intimate knowledge of the lake traced back to childhood when her family spent all their summers here. She subsequently made it her permanent home and has been offering private cruises for the past seven years. I spent a memorable morning aboard her 21-foot Sea Ray Bow-Rider exploring the famed Golden Pond sites while enjoying the efforts of juvenile bald eagles experimenting with the intricacies of flight. Captain Cindy also treated me to my first-ever close sighting of loons. Other options to explore the lake were guided pontoon boat cruises offered daily by the Squam Lake Natural Science Center. For the more adventurous, the Squam Lake Association offered canoes, kayaks and sailboats for rent.

Tourism Highlights The area offered a satisfying balance of outdoor activities and art and crafts shopping opportunities to satisfy the most eclectic requirements. My personal highlights included:

Center Sandwich A mere 20-minute drive along a shaded country road from Holderness, the picture-perfect white clapboard town of Center Sandwich was a treasure trove of beautifully maintained historic homes and ancient barns turned into inviting art galleries. I especially enjoyed:

Keepsake Quilting This quilter’s paradise was a 15-minute drive east of Holderness in Center Harbor. It was said to be the largest quilt shop in the country, and was arguably one of the better known (it has been mentioned to me by friends from as far a the British Isles). Although not an aficionada of needlecrafts myself, I enjoyed browsing through its endless aisles filled with a rainbow of cotton fabrics. The shop also displayed a number of finished quilts in many sizes, available for purchase.

Sandwich Historical Society This tiny museum housed in a well-preserved early 19 ^th century local home and barn was furnished with authentic artifacts that gave a comprehensive image of local rural life. The museum also had an extensive collection of period tools, documents, paintings and photographs.

Sandwich Home Industries A founding member of the League of New Hampshire Craftsmen, the shop has occupied the same cottage in the center town since 1934. It offered a rich (and tempting) array of juried pottery, textiles, basket wares, glass, woodcrafts, jewelry, leather, prints photographs and mixed media.

Squam Lakes Natural Science Center This vast hillside facility on the outskirts of Holderness focused on New Hampshire’s natural world through live animal exhibits, natural science programs and several hiking itineraries. The center was especially popular with families and children groups. I enjoyed following the well marked and little frequented hiking trails where rest benches had been thoughtfully located in secluded areas that offered panoramic views of the While Mountains.

Date Of Visit August 2011

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Would You Visit Again? Yes

Overall Impression When businessman Isaac Van Horn set out to build his summer residence in 1904, he created an elegant country manor that reflected his English heritage. Nowhere was this more evident than in the cozy Van Horn Dining Room of what is now The Manor on Golden Pond. Leaded French doors and picture windows lined the front and far side of the room to offer a relaxing view of the verdant grounds. The elaborate oak wall paneling and ceiling beams gleamed with the patina of age, enhanced by inlays of rose and green flowered chintz to create an old world country atmosphere. It was a perfect setting for Chef Peter Sheedy’s cuisine, as he wove together European culinary traditions with the best of locally sourced ingredients to create a refined yet unpretentious New American menu.

The staff was polished, well informed of the particularities of individual dishes and offerings on the wine list. The attentive service and timeless romance of the surroundings, with widely spaced, candle-lit tables set with lovely English bone china, and the comfortable high back chairs invited guests to settle in for an evening of leisurely conversations between the well-paced courses. With its imaginative cuisine and cozy atmosphere, the Van Horn offered me the perfect setting for a relaxed evening catching up with a longtime friend. We both declared it a high point of our visit to the Lakes Region of New Hampshire.

About The Executive Chef New Hampshire-born and raised Chef Sheedy detoured by Montreal, Canada for a business education at McGill University before discovering that his true vocation was in the kitchen. He subsequently graduated from the New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, Vermont. He then worked his way around the country from Portland, Oregon and San Diego, California to Atlanta, Georgia, experiencing varied regional traditions before returning to New Hampshire in 2009.

Chef Sheedy’s menu showcased his wide-ranging culinary experience as well as his special commitment to using the freshest local ingredients, from organic family farm produce to artisan cheeses from Vermont and venison raised nearby. His menu changed seasonally, with occasional weekly and even daily adjustments to make the most of the local bounty.

Executive Chef Peter Sheedy

Handicapped Access No

Location The Van Horn occupied the right side of The Manor on Golden Pond in Holderness, New Hampshire.

Opened-Renovated The restaurant was fully renovated after the current owners acquired the property in 1999.

Owned Brian and Mary Ellen Shields

Size The Van Horn could seat a maximum of 35 guests. It employed a staff of eight.

Type Of Restaurant Intimate luxury gourmet dining

DÉCor-Ambiance Cozy English country inn atmosphere. The oak-paneled walls still held a built-in billiard ball rack as reminder of the room’s original purpose. A tall fireplace faced in dark green antique ceramic tiles occupied the center of the room, with a large archway on either side leading to the former home’s dining room. This divider made for an especially intimate setting. Assorted round and square dining tables were draped in floor-length peach linen with a white overlay. The high back chairs were upholstered in pale green and ecru damask. In the center of the front section, a round table held a tall antique pottery vase filled with a sheaf of dry barley. It sat under a period crystal chandelier. In the rear room, two Georgian corner cabinets with leaded glass doors held an assortment of antique glassware and china. All around the room the windows were draped with swags of rose and green flowered chintz.

Cellars Wine And Alcoholic Beverage Selection The 250 labels wine list emphasized reputed vineyards from France, California and Oregon. It included a good selection of well-priced wines by the glass, such as the excellent 2008 Pouilly Fuissé that I especially enjoyed with my meal.

Meal After an unusual amuse-bouche of smoked New England scallop paired with a red corn relish, my appetizer was a wild mushroom risotto, beautifully smooth yet al dente. I followed with a Cioppino-style fish stew rich in shrimp and lobster. Every element of the stew was precisely done, and the broth filled with flavors of the sea. Another winner. I also enjoyed a salad of field greens with nasturtium and pansy blossoms in a light vinaigrette dressing. My dining companion (we shared, of course) started with a timbale of heirloom tomatoes with basil croutons that proved to be the least interesting part of our meal. Although the cubed tomatoes were bursting with fresh-off-the-vine flavor, they were interspersed with an overabundance of croutons that were already going soggy by the time the dish reached our table. However, her main course of crispy free-range chicken with garlic mash potatoes, served with a garnish of sautéed root vegetables and an unusual maple syrup glaze drew sighs of contentment from both of us. My dessert was a lovely flourless chocolate cake served with poached black cherries on a bed of light chocolate sauce. My friend, who has long been on a self-imposed quest for the best crème brulée in the country, declared to have found it in Chef Sheedy’s version. The smooth dark chocolate custard, served nicely chilled under its thick crust of caramelized turbinado sugar was indeed exceptional, worthy of becoming a signature dessert for the Van Horn.

Other In addition to its AAA four diamond rating, the Van Horn has won the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for the past 14 years. The restaurant also offered a vegan degustation menu by prior request.

Reservations Strongly recommended

Date Of Review August 2011

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service The service was excellent, friendly, attentive and precisely timed, yet unhurried for a delightfully relaxed evening.

Would You Dine There Again-Recommend It? Yes