Overall Impression Since I specialize in writing about history and align my travel with that interest, I should have visited Atlanta long ago. The burning of the commercial capital of the Confederacy in November 1864, memorialized in Gone with the Wind, was the symbolic end of the rebellion. If General William Sherman had not driven out the rebels two months before, Abraham Lincoln would likely not have been reelected and one of the anti-war candidates would have sought peace with the South. The Northern public was discouraged by the failure of dozens of attempts to take Richmond, the Confederate capital, and weary of the bloodshed that is hard for us to even imagine (new research shows that the traditional figure of 620,000 dead was far too low; the better estimate of was 785,000 at a time when the total population North and South was only 31 million. The equivalent today would be nearly eight million dying in four years). My wife, Sandra Wells, and I went there primarily for the Atlanta History Center, the Jimmy Carter Presidential Museum, the Martin Luther King Jr. Historic Site, and the Georgia Aquarium (the world’s largest, which deserved the AAA guidebook’s recommendation to spend five hours there).

The Ritz-Carlton Atlanta exceeded our expectations, which were high. We loved the subtly luxurious décor, the abundance of fresh flowers in common areas and rooms, the knowledge and proactive service of staff, the comfortable beds, the quietness of the room despite the location in a district with entertainment venues and business and government offices, and the short walk to major attractions, with a hub for the easy-to-use Metropolitan Atlanta Rapid Transit Authority (MARTA) subway-bus system next door. A Club Level upgrade allowed us to drop by a lounge that was convenient for small meetings and had plentiful food, snacks, and beverages all day. The biggest surprise was AG, a bar and steakhouse that specialized in fine wines and whiskey, which would not normally be our fare, but thanks to the guidance of those serving us, we thoroughly enjoyed. We would return.

Children The hotel offered children a complimentary Ritz Kids activity book with crayons and a self-guided scavenger hunt in the hotel. There was also a menu for children at AG, the restaurant.

Class of Accommodation Luxury hotel

Cleanliness Excellent

Connectivity High-speed WiFi was $9.95 per day (complimentary with Club Level and for Marriott Rewards members). There was complimentary Internet access in the lobby.

General Manager Erwin Schinnerl

Handicapped Access According to a representative the hotel was completely Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) accessible in public areas; there were three fully-accessible king bed rooms with roll-in showers, as well as eight half-accessible rooms with bars in the tubs for assistance (accessible rooms had a 32-inch wide doorway). Guests could request special kits with alarms and phone extensions.

Head Concierge Victoria Edmond

Languages There were staff who spoke Spanish and Italian.

Length of Stay Two nights

Location The hotel was 11 miles from Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, the busiest in the world with 100 million travelers coming through each year, which made the city a good place for global business (the Delta Airlines headquartered were there and there was a museum of flight). It took us about half an hour to reach the hotel. The Peachtree Street hub for MARTA, the modern, efficient, and clean subway and bus system, was next to the hotel (we bought a four-day unlimited pass for $21 each). The hotel was a six block walk from the Philips Arena (home to the NBA’s Hawks and WNBA’s Dream), the brand new Mercedes-Benz Stadium (NFL’s Falcons), the College Football Hall of Fame and Chick-fil-A Fan Experience, the Georgia Aquarium (the largest in the world and worth spending five hours there), CNN’s headquarters (which had an interesting backstage tour), the World of Coca-Cola, and the Center for Civil and Human Rights (an interactive museum).

Managed Ritz Carlton

Owned Ashford Hospitality Trust

Pets No, only service animals were welcome.

Size There were 444 rooms on 25 floors, with 295 employees.

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation The hotel opened in 1984. Remodeling of the restaurant AG was completed in 2016.

Lobby and Common Areas The entry was striking, with a massive, pleasantly abstract painting hovering over a polished dark hardwood floor and stairs, which led down to the lobby and Lumen Bar and up to the restaurant and bar, AG. The lobby floor was marble of pale pink with white streaks and some color designs, but the most notable aspect of the décor was lots of exotic flowers (including orchids) with their roots in ice. There were paintings of leaders from Atlanta history on the walls.

Lumen had subdued lighting, dark wooden floors, and comfortable seating. AG’s colors were black-and-white, which matched the photos on the walls from Atlanta’s history, as well as the tile in the breakfast area and was compatible with the dark wood floor. The second floor hallway, outside of AG, had dark wood walls and floors, overlaid with a red carpet that had swirling gold designs, while the hall to our room had yellow carpets with red geometric designs, soothing light yellow wallpaper and pleasant abstract paintings.

Outside of the conference rooms there were pale, high-backed sofas with a low table in between and a blue carpet with gold flower designs. The fitness center had dark wood floors. The Club Lounge (which provided all-day access to food and beverages, complimentary Internet, a large-screen TV in a separate section so it could be watched without bothering others, and niches for meetings) had yellow marble and dark wood floors, with comfortable blue couches. There was a small, quiet corner called The Library. Throughout the public spaces chandeliers were elegant and cast a subtle illumination, not attracting attention to themselves. Elevators were surprisingly fast for a tall building. There was also a spectacular atrium connecting The Ritz-Carlton, Atlanta to the adjacent office building at 191 Peachtree Street.

Bathroom It was small, given the spacious room, but adequate. Its marble bathtub was low at 13 inches tall (good for handicapped accessibility), 54 inches long by 22 inches wide, with a shower curtain and rain showerhead. There was a single sink. The water pressure was strong.

Room We stayed in room 2402, a Club Level King Deluxe on the same floor as the Club Lounge. It was 334 square feet large and functional with a view of the business district. The hotel appeared serious about its non-smoking policy: a sign notified guests that a $250 fine would be imposed on anyone caught smoking. Lighting was soft, yet better than at many hotels we have visited, which have fallen into the trend of using pinpoint lights as part of their minimalist aesthetic that makes it hard to see clearly. There was a dark wood cabinet and oval desk with a chair, as well as a stuffed chair by the window. The carpet was off white, the wallpaper either a straw or satin color. There were abstract paintings on the wall. There was a dark wood panel at the head of the bed. The feather medium firm mattress and feather pillows were extremely comfortable (available for purchase from the company website). The linens were Italian Frette.

We signed up for the Club Lounge, which provided access to a lovely setting where we could have meetings or relax and enjoy a variety of complimentary food and drinks from early morning until late night; a “hotel inside the hotel,” it had complimentary WiFi, a PC and a Mac, a large TV, and concierge services to guests.

Food and Restaurants As natural food lacto-ovo vegetarians, we do not find most mainstream restaurants of much interest. Only Sandra drinks alcohol occasionally. We were spoiled by the Club Lounge when it came to breakfast and snacks, which had not only The Ritz-Carlton’s brand of coffee and related beverages, but its own not-too-sweet granola, as well as customized omelets, delicious Southern grits, fried sweet potatoes, gourmet dates, quinoa, and dried blueberries and vanilla goat cheese combo that tasted like cheesecake. Although we did not try them, there was a host of meats and fish, as well as desserts, cordials, liqueurs, beers, wines, and spirits.

The sign on Peachtree Street still advertised the Atlanta Grill, but the main restaurant had been recently completely reinvented and renamed AG, sometimes with the subtitle “a modern steakhouse.” It did not sound promising for us, but general manager Eddie Elrod, executive sous chef Gilles Schreiber, server Arnoud and his assistant Shah headed up a team that did a superb job. Arnoud, a first-level sommelier, selected a red wine (Sancerre Pinot Noir) and a white (Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis) to sample and Sandra was impressed with their taste and power (having so much fun she forgot to write down the years). Then came a sample from the restaurant’s personal barrel of WhistlePig rye whiskey, aged 10 years. Kaiyah came over from the bar and used a torch on wood chips to add smoke to the glass before she poured the whiskey. She said the AG’s Smoky Old Fashioned has a cult following.

Our server team recommended we try the BBQ Tofu, Angel Hair Pasta, Jumbo Grilled Asparagus, Mushrooms and Cipollini Onions, Tomato Soup, and the spicy Buffalo Cauliflower. Sandra’s enthusiasm for each dish might have been fueled by the drinks, but I can state without bias that it was some of the best-prepared food we had ever had and in generous portions. By the time we finished we had been there two hours and had to practically force ourselves to squeeze in the desserts, Pistachio Cheesecake and Panna Cotta Bar (raspberries, raspberry sorbet, and frangipane), with Sandra sampling a Chateau Gutet Premier Muscat dessert wine approvingly.

Amenities In our room there was an iPod docking station. Tech help and equipment were available on request, including surge protectors, power converters and adapters, chargers for mobile phones and laptops, and Ethernet jack-packs. The small closet in our room had one lightweight cotton robe. It also had a safe, a flashlight for emergencies, a Voyager iron, and full size ironing board. There was a shoeshine kit (and complimentary overnight shoeshine on request) and full-length umbrella (which was important when it rained heavily one day unexpectedly). Toiletries were in 1.5 ounce bottles from Asprey. There was a stocked mini refrigerator with room for personal items. Ice was available down the hall. The Nespresso coffeemaker had the Ritz-Carlton’s locally-formulated coffee, along with Origins teas (we did not use these because the Club Lounge on our floor made fresh coffee early and on the lobby level there was a Jittery Joe’s Coffee Shop). In-room dining was available round the clock. Local and national newspapers were placed by the elevator in the early morning. Chauffeured transportation was available, though we did not need it because of the fast MARTA system. In the bathroom, the makeup mirror had the inadequate lighting of almost every hotel where we have stayed, and there was a Pro-Vera hairdryer by Jordan, as well as a comb (but no hotel seems to provide hair brushes, perhaps because of the need to clean them). A nice touch was a dental kit with a toothbrush and toothpaste.

Facilities There was a staffed business center on the third floor offering copy, print, fax, ship, secretarial, translation, and notary services. There was a 997-square-foot fitness center equipped with Life Fitness equipment and open 24 hours a day seven days a week. For a fee, guests were able to go into the 191 Resolution Fitness club next door, which had more equipment, steam, sauna, and a variety of fitness classes. There was also a gift shop.

Conference Facilities The hotel had 17,000 square feet of event space in 18 rooms, which could accommodate groups of 10 (365 square feet), 700 (6,468 square feet) and up to 1,500 (18,000 square feet). I was unable to enter the large meeting rooms because they were always busy and organizers did not want photos taken. The Distillery, a private dining room in AG, had a wooden floor and a long wood table to accommodate a couple of dozen guests in front of a display of the hotel’s premium spirits.

Other Local calls were subject to a $1 surcharge. We were impressed with alert security staff, which we only noticed because we visited right after the Las Vegas mass shooting. We particularly appreciated staying at The Ritz-Carlton, Atlanta, located in the heart of downtown, due to my having recently interviewed Bill Marriott, former chief executive officer of Marriott International, which owned The Rita-Carlton Hotel Company. Having last reviewed a Ritz-Carlton hotel when we stayed at the one in Hong Kong in 2002, I wanted to see what the experience was like, now that I understood his standards and systems. Marriott International has dozens of brands, but according to him each has the same management approach, which results in a much higher retention of long-term employees than competitors (managers average 25 years versus Hilton Hotels’ 15 years, he told me); and Marriott properties hire for friendly personality and dependability, since technical skills can be trained. The Credo Card that guides the Ritz-Carlton’s motto of “ladies and gentlemen serving ladies and gentlemen” includes a commitment to “uncompromising levels of cleanliness,” the “ownership and immediate resolution of guest problems,” and “empowerment to create unique, memorable and personal experiences for guests.” The Ritz-Carlton Atlanta received the Forbes Four Star rating in 2016 and 2017 and was named one of the Conde Nast Traveler Top 40 Hotels in the South in 2017. At the time of our visit, The Ritz-Carlton Rewards program had an excellent reputation.

Reviewers

Photos and Article by Scott S. Smith

Service The room was cleaned twice a day and there was turn-down service. During our stay, when I talked to random hotel staff as needed, to the Club staff, a security guard, and restaurant staff they were able to answer questions. The staff we encountered were helpful.

Overall Impression Ideally located across from Forsyth Park, Savannah’s own Central Park, The Waldburg was a lovely Queen Anne home meticulously restored to its Victorian charm. The cornflower blue clapboard exterior was enhanced with gleaming white trim. Coral accents drew the eye to the deep cornice and ornate brackets supporting the roof overhang. The large bay windows of the façade were topped by a polygonal attic cupola. Sitting on a small corner lot at the edge of the Historic District, the $1 million property was surrounded by lush, artfully landscaped borders contained within a lacy low wrought iron fence. Under an arch of gently undulating palms, a few moss-cushioned brick steps led to the entrance porch and solid oak front door. It was a house that instantly gave me a sense of homecoming.

The interior was equally inviting. The two-story home originally built in 1889 as the residence of a local physician, Dr. George Hummel, was divided into two apartments. Mine was the spacious two-bedroom/two-bath Lower Waldburg that occupied the entire first floor. The décor was an elegant blend of contemporary flair and Victorian accents. Both bedrooms as well at the living room had retained their period fireplaces and polished walnut hardwood floors. Tall picture windows soared toward the 14 foot (4.2 meter) ceilings to give the rooms a cool, airy atmosphere and offer a sweeping view of the park. A genteel, superbly comfortable home with the grace of a bygone era, in one of the most privileged locations in the city, would have been reason enough to make The Waldburg our Savannah home on a recent girlfriends’ weekend.

However, what made our visit a truly exceptional experience was the outstanding concierge service provided by property manager Jeanne-Marie Everson. She has developed an impressive array of intriguing a la carte indulgences to tempt even the most demanding guests. We happily succumbed. Transportation from the airport? Nothing as mundane as hailing a cab for us. An owner-driven fire-engine red vintage Cadillac convertible became our transportation of choice, not only for airport transfers but also for a private guided tour of the famed historic Bonaventure Cemetery, a few miles east of Savannah. Wonder how Savannah got the moniker of most haunted city in America? We found the answer on a night-time hearse tour of the city’s spookiest spots. Curious about local cuisine? Jeanne-Marie arranged for a private chef to materialize in our kitchen on the first morning of our visit and produce a hardy “flavors of Savannah” breakfast before we set off on our walking exploration of the Historic District. And we were grateful for the masseuse who showed up at our door on the last afternoon of our stay to rejuvenate our weary tourist bodies before we headed to a lovely dinner at one of the trendiest restaurants in town (also a Jeanne-Marie recommendation).

Not only did The Waldburg welcome us to a refined urban nest, it also brought Southern hospitality to new heights to ensure we experienced to the fullest the very essence of the city. I have already recommended The Waldburg to a couple planning a special anniversary celebration in Savannah, and suggested it as a mandatory stop to friends arranging a tour of the historic South.

Class Of Accommodation Upscale city apartment

Connectivity Complimentary wireless Internet connectivity was operational throughout the apartment.

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location The Waldburg was located at the corner of Drayton and Waldburg streets, immediately across from Forsyth Park, a few steps away from the Savannah Historic District.

Managed Jeanne-Marie Everson

Owned Geoffrey Albert and Roman Arnold

Size The two-story 3,000 square foot (280 square meter) Victorian home housed two apartments. The two bedroom, two bath Waldburg Lower, where we stayed, occupied the 1,300 square foot (140 square meter) first floor of the house.

Year Open-Renovated The property opened for guests in September 2008 after a yearlong complete renovation.

DÉCor The apartment was decorated in an eclectic style that harmoniously blended contemporary and Victorian furniture and accessories to create an elegant city retreat. Throughout the house, the plastered walls were painted in bold Victorian colors, offset by white-lacquered original Victorian wood trim. All the windows were draped in tan chenille. In every room a contemporary brushed stainless steel ceiling fan complemented the central air-conditioning.

Lobby And Common Areas A long entrance corridor led from the frond door to the central foyer. The walls were antique gold, enhanced by two large framed antique prints. Two contemporary runners with tan background and striped multi-colored borders covered the hardwood floor. The foyer opened onto the living room and kitchen on the right and the master bedroom on the left.

In the 225 square foot (20 square meter) living room, walls were olive green with thin gold borders. The outer wall featured two tall, extra-wide sash windows that overlooked a small private courtyard. Double French doors led to the front bedroom. Contemporary overstuffed love seats upholstered in celadon green suede were angled on either sides of the door. They faced a round walnut coffee table and beyond it, the rustic wooden faced fireplace and the television resting on the mantelpiece. A square, dark wood dining table and four matching chairs were tucked in the corner between the fireplace and one of the windows. Wall hangings were framed contemporary collage prints.

Behind the living room, the spacious 165 square foot (15 square meter) kitchen retained its Victorian atmosphere, with a large white porcelain double sink set in black countertop, white painted kitchen cabinets and wainscoting. However, the side-by-side stainless steel refrigerator, ceramic top kitchen stove, microwave oven and stacked washer and dryer were definitely 21 ^st century, as was the ceiling track lighting. A bar-height table and two stools were a convenient place to sit for breakfast and snacks. Flooring was light brown rustic tile.

Bathrooms The 80 square foot (7.5 square meter) master bath was en suite to the master bedroom. Walls were tan paint over white wainscoting. The two pedestal sinks and commode were white porcelain, while the oversized walk-in shower was tiled with travertine marble. The sinks were topped with rectangular wall mirrors. The second bathroom was off the central corridor. It featured an oversize shower tiled in travertine marble, a white porcelain commode and single pedestal sink with an oval mirror. It served as a powder room as well as bathroom for the second bedroom.

Rooms My 300 square foot (28 square meter) master bedroom and adjoining bath occupied the entire left side of the house. The walls were cornflower blue with gold trim. The queen size bed, bedside tables and double dresser were ebony wood. The bed faced a tall white-lacquered ornamental Victorian fireplace. Bedside lamps were swirling metal bases holding white silk shades. A black leather armchair with matching ottoman and a small art deco round wooden table with two lattice back metal chairs completed the décor. Throw rugs in multicolored geometric design on tan background surrounded the bed. Wall hangings were a variety of Victorian and contemporary prints in ornate gold frames.

On the right front side of the house, the 270 square foot (25 square meter) second bedroom was a striking Venetian read with haint blue (a light blue traditional in Savannah) accents. The queen size sleigh bed, bedside tables and bureau were mahogany. A large fireplace was centered on the wall opposite the bed. It was topped by a framed, rectangular mirror. A small round glass-top writing table and two wooden chairs sat in front of the picture window. Several African-inspired prints in wooden frames decorated the walls. Throw rugs and bedside lamps were identical to those in the master bedroom.

Amenities The kitchen was thoughtfully stocked with basic staples, including coffee, creamer, sugar, tea, oil and vinegar, crackers and a bottle of wine. The refrigerator had bottled water, cheese, paté and a tray of grapes.

Bathroom amenities included an abundant supply of generously-sized bath towels in white thick cotton; hair dryers; a pump bottle of hand soap on each sink and a dispenser of shampoo, conditioner and bath gel in each shower.

Others The Waldburg offered complimentary private off-street parking a few steps away from the property.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review August 2009

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service Excellent. Property manager Jeanne-Marie Everson and owner Geoffrey Albert couldn’t possibly have been more gracious or attentive to our comfort or enjoyment of the property and the city.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Savannah is the quintessential Southern city, a world of gracious colonial mansions and verdant parks shaded by centuries-old live oaks dripping with Spanish moss. Established in 1733 on a bluff overlooking the Savannah River as the first city in Georgia, Savannah was one of the earliest planned cities in colonial America. Its creator, British General James Oglethorpe, a social reformer and visionary as well as military leader, conceived a layout of wide streets anchored by four public squares. The concept anticipated the growth of the city and expansion of the grid. More squares were added until the mid-19 ^th century. In 1851, the 30-acre Forsyth Park, the largest in the city, was the last addition to Savannah’s exuberant green spaces. Today, 21 squares remain, bordered by stately colonial homes. Together, they form the two-and-a-half square mile Savannah Historic Landmark District. One of the largest urban historic districts the country, it essentially represents the city limits at the time of the American Civil War.

In spite of the vicissitudes of three centuries of troubled history, including capture by General Sherman during the Civil War, the rise and fall of the cotton industry and a number of devastating hurricanes and fires, Savannah is one of the few cities in the South where antebellum charm and architecture have remained intact. Yet for all its historic allure, this city of 130,000 was much more than a living history museum. Savannah also offered a lively and diverse art scene. The Telfair Museum of Art, opened in 1886 widely recognized for it extensive collection of American and European art, recently inaugurated a major extension that nearly doubled its exhibition space to house a developing collection of modern art and receive major temporary expositions. Additionally, the city’s artistic life is constantly energized by the 8,000 students and faculty of Savannah College of Arts and Design (SCAD). The college is the driving force behind a number of yearly artistic events ranging from shows hosted by the various departments to promote student work to the Savannah Film Festival. Held in late October or early November, the week long festival draws close to 35,000 attendees to screenings of student and professional films.

Then there are the ghosts. According to local lore, spirits are especially restless in Savannah, earning the city bragging rights to being the “most haunted city in America.” From the legendary Bonaventure Cemetery to some of the most famous addresses along the historic squares, tales of ghoulish unexplained phenomena could be heard at every turn. This atmosphere of mystery was further enhanced by frequent references to “The Book,” as the Southern Gothic story Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil by John Berendt is commonly called here. Published in 1994, it is based on real-life events that rocked the city and local society in the early 1980’s (the four murder trials and subsequent acquittal of a prominent antique dealer for the death of a young local hustler). The Book figured on major best-seller lists for several years, and became synonymous with Savannah for countless readers around the world, many of whom now account for the million of tourists who visit the city each year.

The original intent of my recent visit was to experience Savannah’s vaunted antebellum architectural treasures and Southern charm. While I did spend lovely laid-back hours exploring the parks, mansions and waterfront of this historic port city, I also discovered the pleasure of wandering through delightfully spooky graveyards in search of famed tombstones swathed in gray scarves of Spanish moss. And dare I mention a late evening hearse tour? From the back of an open-sided hearse, I cruised around the city’s grisliest addresses (and often loveliest mansions) while my driver-guide artfully wove conventional history with chilling tales of betrayal, murder and vengeance, and the occasional irreverent theory on miscellaneous paranormal activities. From historic to trendy, gracious to gritty, I found Savannah a quirky Southern Belle who welcomed me and kept me entertained beyond my expectations.

Cost Of Visiting Reasonable

Currency U.S. Dollar

Electrical Current 120 Volt

How To Get There Savannah/Hilton Head International Airport, located seven miles (11 kilometers) northwest of Savannah, was serviced by the regional carriers of most major U.S. airlines via their nearest hub. Amtrak offered three times daily rail service on its New York to Miami route.

Location In the estuary of the Savannah River, 18 miles upriver from the Atlantic Ocean, a four-hour drive southeast of Atlanta and 40 miles south of Hilton Head, Georgia.

Technology High speed Internet connectivity was widely available. Cell phone reception was excellent wherever I went in the city.

Time GMY/UTC minus five hours (e.g. U.S. Eastern Time)

Transportation Within the city, I found walking the easiest and most enjoyable way to visit the downtown area. For those preferring public transportation, the Downtown Transportation (DOT) system offered fare-free tramway, bus and ferry transportation in and around the Historic District.

Shopping And Souvenirs There were enough boutiques, galleries, antique and souvenir shops along the streets of Savannah to suit all tastes and budgets.

Tourism Highlights The Historic District offered many opportunities to wander from square to square, along tree-lined avenues filled with mansions, boutiques and galleries. I especially enjoyed Bull Street. Running from City Hall at Bay Street, just two blocks South of River Street and the waterfront, Bull Street offered a spectacular walk through the unfolding history of Savannah from the earliest colonial times to the Victorian era. The lovely North/South artery led from Johnson to Wright, two of the original four squares of the city, to Chippawa (laid in 1815) to Madison (1837) to Monterey (1847), to end at the northern end of Forsyth Park.

Bonaventure Cemetery (330 Bonaventure Road) is arguably the best known cemetery in Savannah, and one of the most unusual I have visited in the United States. Located on a bluff on the Wilmington River to the east of the city, shaded with 250-year-old live oaks draped in Spanish moss it felt as much a picnic destination as a graveyard. It rose to international fame with The Book as the location of Johnny Mercer’s grave. Other local notable Southern families are buried here, including Conrad Aiken’s.

Forsyth Park Hailed as “the Crown Jewell of Savannah” Forsyth Park was developed in the mid-19 ^th century at the southern edge of the Historic District. It has been a hub of outdoors activities ever since, for city residents and visitors alike. Its best known attraction is the white cast-iron tiered fountain that dominates the north end of the park. Modeled after one of the Jacques-Ignace Hittorf fountains on the Place de la Concorde in Paris it is said to be the most photographed monument in the city. It also made cameo appearances in several movies, most notably Forest Gump and Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.

River Street was an ancient cobblestone street along the south bank of the Savannah River. Lined with gift shops and restaurants and the departure points for steamboat river cruises, it was a favorite spot with tourists.

Telfair Museum Of Art (121 Barnard Street) boasted a permanent collection of 4,500 works including sculptures, paintings, photography and decorative arts, with a notable early 20th century collection of American impressionists including pieces by Gari Melchers, Frederick Frieseke and Childe Hassam. Its new 64,000 square foot (6,000 square meter) Jepson Center opened in 2006. It included five galleries focused on contemporary art and two outdoors sculpture terraces as well as a pleasant café and museum store. It was worth a visit for its architectural interest as well as its collections.

Date Of Last Visit August 2009

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Would You Visit Again? Yes