Overall Impression The Île de Montréal Golf Course is located 20 minutes from downtown Montreal, Canada at the eastern tip of the island. Two 18 hole golf courses make up this public golf club with a membership base established in 2003. Both courses were part of the Certified Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary and promote nature conservation and the use of local plants that are native to the area.

The Island Course and the Ireland Course were designed by Pat Ruddy, a renowned Irish golf course architect. We enjoy playing both courses depending on the weather and our need to be challenged. The Island Course (formerly known as the North Course) and the Ireland Course (South Course) offer two very different experiences. I prefer the first course as it is more traditional in nature with trees and water features in play whereas my husband and our teenage son prefer the Ireland Course for the strategy required in playing a challenging links course.

The Ireland Course is a par 70, 7180 yard links course with undulating fairways and large slick greens. Most of the course is raised and several greens are either above or below your stance. Water is in play on only one hole, and actually is not in play for the women’s tee box. This does not mean that the course is easy! On the contrary, pot bunkers and sand bunkers are located strategically and several fairways narrow down at the most annoying distances. The fescue is deep and has devoured several of our golf balls. Accuracy and strategy is the key to playing a satisfying round of golf on this course. The wind is definitely a factor and on hot sunny days there is very little shade. Although we enjoy walking this course, carts are often handy. We find this course quite a challenge to play and our scores are generally higher than usual. But oh! The satisfaction when I get a par on this course because they are not achieved easily!

The Island Course, a par 70, 6603 yards, is a more classic style forested course located on the other side of the highway. To reach it we pass under a short tunnel and emerge on the wooded side of the property. Lower in elevation than the Ireland Course, the wind is not quite as important a factor as on the other course however the second and third fairways are wide open. This course abuts the Nature Park of Pointe Aux Prairies and, as a consequence, wild life is abundant. The fairways are larger with more variety in the landscape. Trees, water and sand traps are often in play. In fact hole Number 5 is an exhausting 516 yards. And to top it off, we have to play to an island green! Strategy is the name of the game here also.

The Club House has the necessary amenities and is often used for wedding receptions and private parties. An outside and indoor pub is the perfect place to add up our score card and to have a basket of the best homemade potato chips I have ever tasted. I have to admit that they also make great sandwiches, but we found that the last time we played the beverage and food cart appeared only once on each nine. I always pack a water bottle or two. The Club House offers full meals on the terrace and the inside pub. There is an upper level deck and an observation tower that is four stories high. From this vantage point we can overlook Montreal to the west (with spectacular sunsets) and watch the golfers play the last three holes of the Ireland Course. Our son played in a tournament here last year and we enjoyed observing him from the upper deck. Next time we will bring binoculars!

Opened 2003

Putting-Chipping Greens Yes

Carts available for a fee. Course may be walked, pushcarts available for a fee

Driving Range Yes

Club Rental for a fee, Cobra

The Ireland Course 18 holes Par 70

Slope: Men: blue: 128, white: 118

Women: red: 118

The Island Course 18 holes Par 70

Slope: Men: blue: 118, white: 113

Women: red: 115

Date Of Most Recent Visit November 2010

Reviewers Article by Andrea de Gosztonyi-McRae and Doug McRae

Photos by Andrea de Gosztonyi-McRae

Would We Play Again Yes

Overall Impression The Atlantide Golf Club, a private and public golf course (private members have priority on the reservations schedule), is located just off the Island of Montreal on the island of Ile Perrot, about 30 minutes from downtown Montreal. Located on the shores of Lake Saint Louis, the setting is bucolic and several holes play near the waterfront. Even on hot summer days a refreshing breeze comes off the water. Two 18 hole golf courses are part of this golf club, the Atlantide Course and the Don Quichotte Course. We have played both courses several times and find each one quite challenging.

The club house offers the standard variety of meals and sandwiches, and the restaurant is on two levels, one for the general public and one for club members. The last time we were there, because a reception was being prepared in the main restaurant we were allowed access to the members lounge. A BBQ was the offering on the lovely outdoor terrace however it was very hot that day and we opted for the indoor lounge.

The Atlantide Course, designed by Graham Cooke in 1991, is the older of the courses. Mature trees line the course which my husband refers to as a classic course. We like the variety in the terrain. Although there is often water on the sides of the fairways the fairways and greens are generous in size. We enjoy walking the course as the tee boxes are near the end of the previous greens. Carts are available and we take advantage of them on hot days.

We played in 34 degrees Celsius weather and appreciated the shade and the breeze that our cart generated. Some consider this course to be amongst the top 100 beautiful public courses in Canada and amongst the 10 top public courses in Québec. We find this course to be challenging but not impossible to play for the average weekend golfers that we are.

The Don Quichotte Course, also designed by Graham Cooke, is the newer course. This course opened in 2005 and is a more demanding course than the older Atlantide. We always pack extra golf balls when we play this course because we generally make several offerings to the goddess of waters! Twelve of the eighteen holes have water in play. In fact the sixth hole is on a peninsula and if we miss the green we are guaranteed to land in the lake! The fairways are narrower than the ones on the Atlantide Course, the greens are faster and the wind can definitely be a factor. We enjoy playing this course when we want to be challenged!

Date Established Atlantide in 1991 and Don Quichotte in 2005

Number Of Holes 36

Putting-Chipping Greens Yes

Atlantide Course 18 holes Par 72

Slope: Men: blue: 121, white: 115

Women: white: 126, red: 118

Carts available for a fee. Course may be walked, pushcarts available for a fee

Driving Range Yes

Club Rental for a fee, Callaway, Titliest and Cobra brands

Courses Designed By Graham Cooke

Don Quichotte Course 18 holes Par 71

Slope : Men : blue : 121, white : 118

Women : white : 130, red : 119

Date Of Review September 2010

Last Time Played September 2010

Reviewers Article by Andrea de Gosztonyi-McRae and Doug McRae

Photos by Andrea de Gosztonyi-McRae

Would We Play Again? Yes

Overall Impression Founded in 1860 as the Art Association of Montreal, the main building opened in 1912 and was designed by architects Edward and William S. Maxwell in the Beaux Arts style. Among the oldest art institutions in Canada, the museum is composed of three pavilions, with a fourth pavilion under construction. The original building is known as the Michal and Renata Hornstein Pavilion. Annexed to the back of this building is the Liliane and David M. Stewart Pavillion and across the street is the Jean-Noël Desmarais Pavilion designed by Moshe Safdie and built in 1991. Permanent and temporary exhibitions are located in all three pavilions.

The museum is centrally located downtown, just a few blocks out of the underground city and near some very posh shopping. There are two main buildings: one modern and the other in the classical Beaux Arts Style. The two buildings are linked by an underground tunnel that also is an exhibition space for sculptures and ceramics. We enjoyed that the works of art are organized thematically, allowing us to pick and choose which period we wanted to visit first. I particularly enjoyed the Canadian Art collection showcasing 17 ^th century to modern day Canadian artists such as Jean-Paul Riopelle and Paul-Emile Borduas.

The Decorative Arts and Design collection located in an adjoining pavilion caught our attention. It was entertaining to see the evolution of furniture and various utilitarian objects assembled in chronological order. We found the map of the floor plan particularly useful. The staff were also polite and helpful and even the security guards were able to give us information on the collection. We quite enjoyed strolling through the collections although the next time we visit, we will first look up the website for the tour hours.

Average Duration Of Visit Two hours

Handicapped Access Yes

How To Get There There was no indoor parking. There was metered street parking in the area as well as several parking lots. The Museum easily accessible by public transit: 24 bus line or the Metro Guy-Concordia.

Location Downtown Montreal in the historic Golden Square Mile. We took the metro to Guy-Concordia and walked three blocks north to Sherbrooke Street.

Size Of Museum There were three pavilions with a fourth pavilion scheduled to open in 2011 and a collection of 35,000 art objects.

Type Of Museum The vocation of the MMFA is to promote the work of Canadian and international artists past and present. The MMFA has built up a collection of over 35,000 paintings, sculptures, works on paper, prints, drawings, photographs and decorative art objects from antiquity to today. These collections are divided into Ancient Cultures, European Art, Canadian Art, Inuit and Amerindian Art, Contemporary Art and Decorative Arts and Design.

Permanent Exhibitions Pre-Columbian art to contemporary North American artists are represented in the galleries of the museum. I particularly liked several exhibitions such as the Napoleon and the arts of the First Empire, a collection of Napoleonic memorabilia donated by the estate of the late Ben Weider. This collection contains a hat worn by Napoleon during the Russian campaign of 1812 as well as over 100 artifacts that belonged to Napoleon and his time. I also liked the Sacred Africa II, a collection of sculptures, masks and objects from Central and West Africa organized in collaboration with Cirque du Soleil, Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, Redpath Museum and McGill University. These objects are a source of inspiration for the costumes and make-up used in Cirque du Soleil productions, and are part of the private collection of Guy Laliberté.

Canadian art from the past to the present is well represented in the museum. The Inuit sculptures and the paintings by the Group of Seven are my favourites. One section that gets a little lost is the Decorative Arts and Design section in the Liliane and David M. Stewart Pavilion, an interesting collection of furniture and objects dating from the first colonials to modern day. This is annexed to the back of the Beaux Arts building and is worth the extra time to find. I found a group of design students sketching on my last visit.

Restaurant The Café des Beaux Arts is a four-star restaurant run by Chef Richard Bastien. Less expensive restaurants and bistros can be found on the streets adjoining the museum, Crescent and Bishop Streets, within easy walking distance. During my visit when visitors entered the museum, they received a sticker providing access all day to the exhibitions. We walked down Crescent Street for a quick bite to eat in a little French-style Bistro and headed back to spend the rest of the afternoon in the museum.

Souvenir Shop I have a fondness for museum shops and the MMFA boutique did not disappoint me. Catalogues of past and present exhibitions were available, postcards, note cards and related books were a joy to leaf through. There were also scarves, jewellery and reproductions for wonderful souvenirs.

Tours Available Guided tours and audio guide tours were available.

Other A map was available at the entrance of each pavilion and at the cloak rooms and bathrooms. Admission to the permanent exhibitions was free, allowing us to spend as little as an hour or all day visiting the various exhibition spaces. Guided tours of the permanent collection and the cloakroom were also free of charge. The latest addition to the museum family will be on the next corner and adjacent to the Beaux Arts building: the Erskine and American United Church (built in 1894 and a historic monument). Plans are for it to house Canadian art and be called the Claire and Marc Bourgie Pavilion.

Recommendations Although the exhibition spaces are well laid out, it can get quite confusing to navigate around them. To explore the various pavilions, I find it useful to rely on a map of the floor plans. They are linked by an underground tunnel making it possible to remain within the complex.

Most Recent Visit April 2010

Reviewers Article by Andrea de Gosztonyi-McRae

Photos by Andrea de Gosztonyi-McRae

Would You Go Again Yes

Overall Impression Montreal is the second largest city in Canada (after Toronto) and the largest city in the Province of Quebec. Located on the Island of Montreal, the city center revolves around the three peaks of Mount Royal, a 200 hectare park that was designed by Frederick Law Olmstead (also known for designing Central Park in New York). The city is easy to get around, be it on foot, by car or by bus, as the mountain acts as a compass. I am north, south, east or west of Mount Royal! Old Montreal, the historic part of the city, is located on the south end of the city near the Port of Montreal. Founded in 1642 by trench settlers, the narrow winding streets are frequently used for Old Europe in many Hollywood film productions. Visiting this part of town takes me a full day.

The restaurants and cafés are abundant. A quaint Chinatown borders the northern edge of Old Montreal and the financial district. A modern Downtown is located at the base of Mount-Royal Park. High-rises and commercial buildings are located here as well as a vibrant artistic center. The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts (MMFA), the Montreal Museum of Contemporary Art (MAC) and the McCord Museum are all within easy walking distance of each other. The Place des Arts Concert Hall is also located there as well as several above and underground shopping malls. On the north side of Mount Royal, and nestled half way up the mountain, is Saint Joseph’s Oratory, a scale replica of Saint Peter in Rome. Pilgrims flock to this site and the view from the top of the basilica is amazing.

On the east side of the mountain are located the 1976 Olympic installations, the Botanical Gardens, the Insectarium and the Biodome. These are a must see. The western top of the mountain is primarily residential and is well worth the drive. Stately homes were built there in the 19 century to escape the heat of the city. Camilien Houde Drive is the main road that cuts over the mountain and leads to the east and west look-outs. On a sunny day, Mount Royal Park is perfect for a leisurely walk around Beaver Lake or a more strenuous jog up and around the cross. In the winter, cross-country skiing, tobogganing and outdoor ice-skating are the main attractions.

I also like that Montreal is for some Canada’s cultural capital and the city of festivals. From Grand Prix racing to the Montreal International Jazz Festival, there are over 80 different festivals throughout the year. I like that it is easy to get around Montreal, also that it offers varied dining options, it is home to fine and contemporary art museums and hosts cultural and music events.

Currency Canadian Dollar

Electrical Current 110 volts

How To Get There Major airlines provide frequent service to Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport. Rental cars, taxis ($38 to downtown) and regular city bus service (Airport Express Bus $7 to Lionel Groulx metro station) are available. It takes me 25-30 minutes, depending on traffic,to reach downtown.

Location Located on an island in the Saint Lawrence River, Montreal is the cultural and economic center of the Province of Quebec.

Restaurants Eating well is of primary importance for Montrealers. Restaurants abound in the city. Traditional French cuisine along with many ethnic restaurants can be found in every part of the city. In the summer, dining on the terrace is a must. From the simple and delicious Parisian style café to the luxurious dining experience of a lifetime, the quest for the perfect meal is important to Quebecquers.

Transportation Within the city, there is an extensive Metro (underground subway) system. In general, I find driving in Montreal to be safe and taxis and city busses convenient. Street parking is coin operated with meter and there are parking lots in the city core. BIXI bikes are available all through downtown Montreal. Pick-up and drop-off locations are indicated on the city maps. With the swipe of a credit card and you have your bike for an hour or a day. Montreal has over 500 kilometers of bicycle paths in the city.

Shopping Major shopping centers and malls are located throughout the city. The more popular areas are Rue Laurier, Saint Denis and Sainte Catherine streets as well as Les Cours Mont Royal, Ogylvies, Holt Renfrew and La Cathédrale downtown.

Tourism Highlights The many museums are a must: Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, Musée d’Art Contemporain, Canadian Center for Architecture, the McCord Museum, the Chateau Ramezay, and the Science Center, to name a few. The Botanical Gardens, the Biodome and the Insectarium are also on our list of favourites. Park Jean Drapeau (the site of Expo 67) and the Lachine Canal are great outings on a sunny day with a BIXI bicycle. Montreal is a great city for walking and many walking tours exploring the various boroughs are available. I find a visit to the extensive underground city worthwhile. The RÉSO is a set of interconnected complexes above and underground downtown Montreal. It is one of the the largest underground complexes in the world connecting shopping malls, hotels, banks, museums, universities and commuter trains.

Useful Websiteshttp://www.tourisme-montreal.org/

Date Of Latest Visit April 2010

Reviewers Article by Andrea de Gosztonyi-McRae

Photos by Andrea de Gosztonyi-McRae

Would You Visit Again? Yes

Overall Impression Vancouver, the host of the 2010 winter Olympics, is the largest city in the province of British Columbia with over half a million residents and one of the mildest climates in Canada. Vancouver is also home to one of North America’s largest ports. It is a beautiful city that offers much to see and do for adults and for families. Ie had visited and enjoyed Vancouver on a family holiday many years ago. This past year, my husband and I had occasion to return twice and we rediscovered the wonders of this location.

The city of Vancouver is located on the Pacific coast of Canada. It must not be confused with Vancouver Island, another lovely destination on the west coast. Bordered by the Rocky Mountains to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west, the location is spectacular. There is much to do for the urban sightseer and for those who are interested in nature. Knowing that we would be returning in the fall, this past June I decided to concentrate on visiting the city highlights. For my second trip, in September, I concentrated on hiking possibilities in and around Vancouver that did not require long distance travel.

Connectivity My cell phone signal within the city was strong and WiFi connections were available in our hotel rooms.

Cost Of Visiting Reasonable

Currency The Canadian dollar

Location West coast of Canada

Measures The metric system is used throughout Canada. This means 100 kilometers equals 60 miles, and -18 Centigrade equals 0 Fahrenheit.

Transportation Vancouver is serviced by many major airlines. I got around town easily with public transportation: bus and Skytrain (subway), and also by taxi and rental car. Vancouver is also the terminal for some cruise ship lines. This terminal is centrally located downtown, allowing visitors access to the North Shore and its many tourist attractions.

Food And Dining Some people consider Vancouver a fine dining area. We enjoyed pleasant meals that varied in price from reasonable to expensive.

Shopping I visited many wonderful boutiques in Vancouver ; many of them and some major stores were centrally located on Robson Street.

Tourism Highlights There are many attractions in and around the city of Vancouver. One of the major attractions is Stanley Park. I spent one half day meandering through this park. Various tours of the park were also available. The Vancouver Art Gallery, the Roedde House Museum, Science World, Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden and Chinatown are within the city. Further afield there are several worthwhile attractions just a short taxi ride or a longer bus commute from the center of town. The Vancouver Maritime Museum and the Vancouver Space center are near each other on English Bay. We thought the Capilano Suspension Bridge, on the North Shore, was worth the trip. Somewhat further away, but still accessible by public transportation or a taxi, is the Vancouver campus of the University of British Columbia. Located on the campus grounds are the Botanical Gardens and the Museum of Anthropology, home to an impressive collection of West Coast Art. We devoted a half day to each and found them well worth the visit.

Day Hikes

On our second trip to Vancouver, I decided to explore the possibility of day hikes within an easy commute from downtown Vancouver. I was pleasantly surprised to find that I could hike everyday without having to travel long distances.

Grouse Mountain was the furthest destination, from the Seabus Terminal on the North Coast; it took me about 20 minutes by local bus. Once I arrived, I had two options: the Skyride to the top or The Grind. This is a hiking trail to the top of the mountain also commonly known as “nature’s Stairmaster.” It took me one hour and 27 minutes to reach the top, with stops on the way up. This hike is not for the faint of heart! The hike took me, up to the end destination of the Skyride, to breathtaking views. There are some pleasant trails on the top of the mountain as well as a restaurant and snack bar. Since it was not possible to yoke back down tThe Grind, I reated myself to a one way return ride down the ‘Skyride’ wich costme $5 CanadiancdI dedicated a full day to enjoying the beauty of this location. This trail is considered moderate to challenging.

Closer to the city, but on the same bus route, is the Capilano Regional Park . The park has an extensive network of trails that go past giant cedar trees, a fish hatchery, through Capilano Canyon to the Cleveland Dam and the beautiful Capilano River. These trails are considered easy to moderate. As no restaurants were nearby when I was there, I was happy that I had packed a light lunch.

Burnaby Lake is situated in the suburb of Burnaby with easy access by Skytrain from downtown Vancouver. The largest lake in the lower mainland, Burnaby Lake, has a rich ecology and is home to many species including ducks, geese and beavers. The lake also has a 10 kilometer hiking path that loops around the entire park area. This is an easy hike with little to no elevation.

Stanley Park, adjacent to downtown Vancouver near the harbour front, this park has many hiking and cycling paths. Trail maps were available at several tourist points in the park, and.bBcycle rentals were available at the entrance of the park for a nominal fee. There was also a chip and putt 9 hole golf course. A walk along the sea wall offered many scenic views of English Bby and the inner harbour.

Day trip north of Vancouver We rented a car to visit the British Columbia Museum of Mining. This indoor and outdoor museum is located at Britannia Beach on Highway 99 towards Whistler, 45 minutes from Vancouver and, 52kilometers (32 miles) on the Sea-to-Sky’ oute. We chose a sunny morning and drove along the coast. The Britannia copper mine was used continuously from 1904 to 1974. After it’s closure, the mine was named a historical landmark and haened to the public. Our tour took us through an underground tunnel dating from 1912 where, we were ble to pan for gold and we saw watdemoations on the various mining techniques. The mill wasis still in t proceed and so we had to hard hats. On our return drive to Vancouver we stopped at Shannon Falls. Located along the sSea to sSky highwy near Squamish, BC., SBritish Columbia, Shannon alslare the third highest waterfs in therovince. This park is directly adjacent to Highway 99, making it a popular day-use park. The park provides picnicking, hiking and access to the trail in Stawamus Chief Provincial Park . Thanks to the We had a warm sunny day and syed hiking some ohorter and, easyier t rails.

Date Of Last Visit September 2008

Reviewers Article by Andrea de Gosztonyi-McRae and Doug McRae

Photos by Andrea de Gosztonyi-McRae

Would You Visit Again? Yes

Overall ImpressionAt Perfect Earth Tours we found the accommodations to be excellent and the staff very friendly and helpful. During our stay we were able to hike, canoe, enjoy the company of other guests, and recharge our batteries. We experienced a healthy, organic and luxurious travel experience and thought it offered great value for the money.

On our first day we hiked up to a water fall through a trail that wound through a beautiful scenic Yukon pine forest on a carpet of soft northern moss so thick and springy that we almost bounced as we walked. It was an easy two hour hike to the waterfall. This trail also included some interesting flora like a large aspen grove, and lots of mountain wild flowers. On the way up to the waterfall we spotted wolf scat on the trail. For wildlife we sighted a wild chicken, which looked a little like a grouse, and many Arctic ground squirrels in the forest.

In the afternoon of our first day it rained, so we stayed inside and enjoyed playing board games. From the great room, we could see ducks and loons swimming up and down the Teslin River. Previous to this trip we had become somewhat familiar with the calls of loons because Native Americans have often used the calls in their music and we enjoy this type of music. So it was a thrill for us to be able to hear the call of a loon in the wild.

On the following day we hiked up to the three lakes, which had become two lakes because of all the rain. On this hike we saw lots of mountain wild flowers including the vivid purple fireweed which is the official flower of the Yukon. In addition we saw fresh large moose tracks on the hiking trail.

Later in the day, we paddled a canoe about 1.24 miles (2 kilometers) along the banks and into the backwaters of the area. This gave us a much better opportunity for wildlife viewing. We saw kingfishers, redhead ducks, a mallard hen with babies and loons. The backwaters of the river were very calm and quiet, offering a relaxing canoeing setting. After dinner we took a second canoe trip at 9:30 p.m. to find the sun was still shinning brightly. At this time of the year it is light almost all day long in this region. Finally, after a long day of hiking and canoeing we were able to soak and unwind in the candle lit Jacuzzi tub in our room.

What we liked about this lodge was the quiet remoteness of its location and the raw unspoiled beauty of the surrounding nature which allowed us to focus on relaxing and recharging our batteries.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury lodge.

General Manager Mike Muller

Handicapped Access Yes they had accommodated some handicapped guests, but they didn’t have wheelchair access.

The rooms were very close to the driveway entry and they had three ground floor rooms when we visited the property.

Internet Access There was high speed Wi-Fi Internet service in our room as well as in the common areas of the lodge.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location The property was a 90 minute drive south and east from Whitehorse along Highway 1.

Owned And Managed Perfect Earth Tours is a privately owned family property belonging to Mike Muller and Alana Nelson.

Size The property occupied two acres and was home to five guest rooms. There were four employees.

Year Opened New owners purchased the property in early 2008 and opened it in the spring of 2008. They were in the process of adding accommodations and new guest facilities.

Lobby And Common Areas The inn had a Western log home lodge style with massive log beams in the structure. The common area was approximately 30 x 50 feet (1,500 square feet or 140 square meters). A casting of a grizzly bear paw print taken from a print found near the lodge was included in the common area as an art piece.

Bathroom We had a private indoor bathroom with a separate locking door which connected to our bedroom. Inside the bathroom there was a sink, shower, and toilet. The bathroom was about 6 x 14 ft (84 square feet or 7.8 square meters).

Room We stayed in a comfortable log lodge room on the upper floor. Our lodge bedroom was about 16×28 feet (448 square feet or 41.6 square meters). It had a balcony with a sliding glass door which faced north and overlooked the Teslin River.

There was a king size bed with mosquito netting, a small sitting chair, a comfortable cushioned chair with an ottoman, a night stand, and a Jacuzzi tub. We enjoyed afternoon naps in the room. We also enjoyed the view of the Teslin River and watching the midnight twilight setting from our balcony.

Meals We decided meal times by a consensus vote from the group of guests. The meal times chosen while we were there were close to normally accepted meal times. Three meals a day, made with organic and locally grown ingredients, were served. The meals were delicious, healthy and nutritious.

Dinner was a family style setting where we shared the experience with the other guests. We enjoyed spending time with people from other parts of the world including Germany and the United Kingdom, sharing travel stories and information about our respective countries.

Breakfast was served buffet style. There was organic bacon and organic eggs; sliced tomato; strawberry; avocado; and toast with blue berry jelly; a locally provided organic mixed herb mint tea ; pancakes with a local favorite sweet lingon berry syrup, cranberry juice, orange juice and apple juice; sourdough bread with butter; sourdough rolls with butter; a specialty German farmer’s dish of potatoes, eggs, and onions; fresh organic rolls; fresh apple juice, cranberry juice, orange juice; and organic coffees.

We sampled the following lunch items:

Organic split pea soup; chicken salad sandwich on sourdough bread and wheat bread; chips and crackers with salsa; olives, grapes, celery and cucumbers; organic mixed herb mint tea; pasta salad; deviled eggs; smoked lox; and sweet muffins

We sampled the following dinner items:

A local favorite delicious wild salmon; rice; steamed broccoli; cucumber salad; white wine; mushrooms and prawns; baked chicken; rice; noodles; garlic bread; and Yukon Gold a locally brewed English style pale ale.

Amenities There were nicely scented local organic toiletries in unmarked bottles. There were candles, tissue, flowers, and his and her bath robes.

Soaps were made by a local vendor using a proprietary recipe of organic ingredients.

Facilities There was a common area great room and kitchen. At the main entrance there was an entry room with tables where guests could play games and take off their shoes.

There was a dock on the river and the property had a canoe and paddles guests could use to paddle around the Teslin River. Outside was a screened in gazebo where guests could relax or read. There was a volleyball court and net on the property.

Activities It was possible to enjoy canoeing, hiking; fishing, dog sledding, ice fishing, cross country skiing, and view the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights).

Other Foods and materials on site were organic. The property was a clean energy based facility. Clean renewable solar panels and a diesel generator provided the energy to power the lodge. The lodge is too remote to be tied to a utility company based power which made the property an “off the grid” lodge. Electricity was available in the rooms. We ran our hair dryer in the mornings on the 120 volts North American power outlets.

Government owned wilderness surrounds all sides of the property.

For all of our hikes the lodge supplied us with gloves, netting and an organic bug spray repellent which when used together proved effective against mosquitoes. This year was the wettest in 50 years for this region, and the unusually large amounts of rain caused a larger than normal mosquito population.

During our visit, the owners were focused on providing guests a totally organic experience. We tried different locally supplied organic foods and amenities during our stay. Examples included the organic soaps and shampoos that were in our bathroom facilities.

Cleanliness Excellent.

Date Of Last Visit July 2008

ReviewersArticle by Chester Godsy

Photos by Joni Johnson-Godsy

Service The staff members were friendly and helpful.

Our room was serviced more than once per day.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression We had never been on a cruise before although both my husband and I enjoy sailing. The opportunity presented itself when my husband needed to be in Anchorage Alaska for business. We had the option of flying into Anchorage, via Vancouver, or taking the ship, departing from Vancouver Harbour up through the inside passage. This option intrigued us and we decided to look into it in more detail. Most cruise lines go to Juneau or Skagway and then passengers return via air to their point of departure. After much searching we were able to locate a cruise that continued two days further and landed in Anchorage for our pre-determined date.

We spent most of our time in the common rooms watching the beautiful scenery unfold. Our two favourite spots were the library, where afternoon tea was served, and the Jazz Lounge where a live band played nightly. We found the food to be delicious. The menu selection was varied: we could choose from seafood to steaks. A spa menu was also part of the selection as was a daily vegetarian dish. The food and the service were excellent, the waiters were most attentive and the wine steward was most informative about the selection of local and imported wines. Fortunately the gym facilities, on the upper deck, were spacious and had all the machines we could imagine.

Although there were activities on board during the day, the shore excursions were fascinating and allowed us to explore a part of our country that we had never visited. Having a naturalist and park rangers aboard, who were all passionate about the region, was an added bonus. We were pleased that, at the last minute, I had tossed our binoculars into the suitcase. We were asked to choose our shore excursions before embarkation, and we found it difficult to decide from among the many things to see and do.

We enjoyed this cruise because we discovered the spectacular scenery of the west coast of Canada and the United States. This cruise allowed us to visit many destinations that are not accessible by land. The great north is rugged and has a beauty that is very much its own. Although we took many pictures, we found that they did not do justice to the spectacular landscapes that unfolded before us. There was so much to see … Guess we will have to take this cruise again!

Built In 2003

Class Notation 100 A01 Passenger ship

Cost Although this trip was described as all-inclusive, alcoholic beverage as well as drinks and snacks outside of mealtimes were charged to our cabin. Land excursions cost extra.

Electrical Current The current was 110, standard North American voltage.

Handicapped Access There were 20 wheelchair accessible suites.

In Command Captain Roger Bilton

Internet There was a 24-hour Internet Café (wireless access available) for a fee. The further north we went, the spottier the reception became.

Length Of Cruise Seven days

Maximum Passenger Capacity 2,368

Normal Crew Compliment 810

Operated By Princess Cruises, Los Angeles

Overall Length 964.3 feet

Tonnage 91,627 tons

Total Distance Covered 1,820 nautical miles

Cabin (room) Since we had made our reservation quite late, we were not able to have a balcony suite; we were assigned a comfortable ocean view stateroom. It had a queen size bed with a wonderful duvet, desk, sitting area, TV, small refrigerator, closet and reading chair along with a small bathroom with a shower that was surprisingly well designed. As it turns out, the temperature was so cold as we travelled northward that we did not regret not having a balcony. Our 212 square foot cabin, suite 205, was on the Emerald Deck. We were amazed at the comfort and space it provided. On the far wall was a large picture window with an unobstructed view.

Head (bathroom) We were happy to discover our small bathroom had a full size shower.There were soft towels, bathrobes and Lotus Spa toiletries.

Dining Eight casual dining areas were located aboard the ship. When we made our reservations for this trip, we were offered the possibility of Personal Choice Dining or Seated Dining. We opted for the Personal Choice, which allowed us to dine at any time. We found the food to be excellent and, because we were on the Alaskan cruise we decided to indulge in traditional foods such as venison, lobster, halibut and salmon. Vegetarian menus as well as the health-focused Lotus Spa menus were also available. Two formal evenings were scheduled and we were pleased to see that everyone dressed up. Cocktail dresses and long gowns and tuxedos and suit and tie were de rigueur .

There was a traditional, pre-set dining time in the Providence Dining Room and anytime dining in the Bordeaux Dining Room. There were also three specialty dining rooms; same day reservations were required as was a dress code.If we ordered a bottle of wine for our meal and did not finish it, the waiter would re-cork it and we could access our wine bottle at any of the bar locations throughout the trip. We drank some fabulous wines!

Entertainment In the evening several bars, pubs and theatres offered continuous and varied entertainment. During the day, various activities were scheduled along with movie presentations. Each evening we received, in our room, a guide to the following day’s activities.

Facilities There was a fully staffed health care center, spa, fitness center, Internet cafe, restaurants,library, two boutiques, several pool and hot tubs, and lounges on board.

Shopping There were two on board boutiques, open during standard operating hours at sea but closed when we were in port.

Spa The Lotus Spa, a relaxing Asian-inspired retreat, which offered body and facial treatments, steam and sauna facilities and hair salon was next to the fitness center.

Sports Facilities A large gym was located on the upper deck and next to the spa. Serviced by an elevator, we turned to the right for the spa and to the left for the gym. An array of elliptical, Stairmasters and other equipment was available. The gym staff was courteous and helpful. Towels were available along with filtered water. We particularly enjoyed watching the passing scenery. Step aerobics, stretching, upper and lower body conditioning and exercise classes as well as yoga, Pilates and spinning classes were offered for a small fee; registration was limited. It was essential to register the first day of arrival aboard ship as these places were taken quickly. We used the swim-against-the-current lap pool and the five heated outdoor hot tubs. We also enjoyed using the golf simulator. There was also a nine-hole putting course which was very popular.Most days, I’d walk four miles on the relatively quiet Promenade Deck (2.8 circuit equaled one mile). On the second to last day of our trip we participated in On Deck for the Cure, a 5 kilometer walk to raise money for breast cancer research. Fitness seminars were also offered. These focused on nutrition, living a balanced lifestyle and other related topics.

Cruise Stops Vancouver, Ketchikan, Juneau, Skagway, Glacier Bay, College Fjord, and Whittier

Cruising Speed 22 knots

Day 1 Boarding and departure from Vancouver, Canada Place Cruise Terminal

Day 2 We spent the day exploring the ship.

Day 3 Ketchikan, Alaska – Located on the western coast of Revillagigeso Island, this town has earned the name of salmon capital of the world. Built on the site of a Tlingit fishing camp, Tlingit, Haida and Timshian peoples are represented. The name Ketchikan is said to mean Eagle River, which refers to the waterfalls on Ketchikan Creek. We chose the Rainforest Wildlife Sanctuary excursion, a half day hike through a protected forest with a naturalist guide.

Day 5 Skagway Alaska – Called the Gateway to the Klondike, this town was declared a national historic park allowing it to retain the flavor of the boomtown Gold Rush days. We arrived in Skagway for the July 4 festivities and participated in the annual egg-toss. We registered for the White Pass-Bennett Lake excursion and it was fabulous. Built in 1898 during the Klondike Gold Rush, this narrow gauge railroad is an International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark; The WP&YR (White Pass & Yukon Rail) climbs almost 3,000 feet in just 20 miles and features steep grades, cliff-hanging turns, two tunnels and numerous bridges and trestles. The steel cantilever bridge was said to be the tallest of its kind in the world when it was constructed in 1901.

Day 6 Glacier Bay National Park – Early in the morning, park rangers embarked on our ship to guide us through Glacier Bay National Park. Our nature guide, along with a park ranger, recounted the history of the area and pointed out to us the names of the various glaciers and how the area was discovered. We watched the glaciers calve and we could see black bears, seals, sea lions, porpoises and whales. We had to dress warmly as the temperature dropped drastically.

Day 7 College Fjord – College Fjord was discovered in 1899 by an expedition included Harvard and Amherst professors. Many of the glaciers were named after elite colleges. Once again, park rangers boarded the vessel and guided us through this 15 mile long fjord. The scenery was magnificent. The silence was incredible.

Day 8 Whittier – In the early morning, we arrived in Whittier, a small town of 290 residents located at the base of the Chugach Mountains and inaccessible by road until 2000. It is now linked by road to Anchorage, a two hour drive north. We disembarked here and continued our trip to Anchorage, where my husband had work related business. I continued on to Whitehorse, Yukon and enjoyed hiking in Kluane National Park and a cabin stay on Lake Laberge, Yukon. We flew home from our respective destinations.

Enrichment An on-board naturalist would give daily up-dates on local flora and fauna. Every afternoon she would give an outside deck lecture on the area through which we were sailing. Also, any interesting sightings such as whales, dolphins, bears on the ice bergs etc. were transmitted through the loud speaker systems. National Park Service rangers offered compelling live commentary on Glacier Bay as we passed through it. The 1985 Iditarod champion Libby Riddles shared her story about the gruelling dogsled race that put her in the history books. There was also an art gallery and a library well stocked with current best-sellers and board games. A SholarShip@Sea program, wine tastings and digital photography classes were offered.

Other Customs and check-in were surprisingly rapid. The cruise terminal is located in downtown Vancouver, at the port, and is highly visible by its architecture. The five large white sail-like towers dominate the waterfront skyline. Our taxi was able to drive right up to customs and embarkation. Cruise staff was at the door, waiting to accompany us through customs and registration. The whole process went quickly.

We were told that the weather can vary tremendously and it can be quite warm but on our seven day trip, although the sun was shining, it was windy and cold. As we travelled north, the temperature dropped and we were often surrounded by glaciers. The dress of the day was in layers. We wore sweaters and wind breakers, hats and gloves on deck. We found that the daytime code for dressing was quite casual. In the evening, the dress code went from cocktail to formal, suits for the gentlemen, as two formal evenings were programmed, and effectively everyone was quite dressy.

Our Itinerary

Ship Island Princess

Day 4 Juneau Alaska – Alaska’s capital city was once part of Alaska’s Gold Rush. The most cosmopolitan city along the Inside Passage, Juneau is also packed with history, a shopping district, and beautiful scenery. Juneau can only be reached by sea or by air as there are no roads at this time that go into, or out of, this city. We chose the Mendenhall Glacier excursion. As we had not reserved ahead of time, there was no room for us on the tour bus and so we located a tour operator at the port and took the local yellow school bus for the 20 minute ride to the glacier. We could stay as long as we liked as there were return busses every half hour. This turned out to be a better choice than taking the guided tour as we could spend time hiking and photographing. Our driver, Sonny, was most entertaining and gave us a running commentary on local life. The glacier is absolutely stunning. A Welcome Center is located at the entrance and maps were available. Forest rangers and volunteer guides, located strategically along the path, answered all our questions.

Date Of Review July 2008

Reviewers Article by Andrea de Gosztonyi-McRae and Doug McRae

Photos by Andrea de Gosztonyi-McRae

Service A steward was assigned to us upon our arrival. Juan advised us on our land trips and also reminded us of special activities during our stay. We appreciated the on board newsletter which kept us abreast of the following day’s activities. The cleaning staff was discreet and we were asked if we had a preferred time for maid service. We found the wine steward most knowledgeable about local and imported wines and he also informed us that we could purchase a bottle of wine and if we did not finish it, it could be resealed and stored in their wine cellar. In this way, if we wanted a glass of wine in the afternoon in the card room, all we needed to do was notify the serving staff and our wine was served with a minimum of delay.

Would We Go Again Yes

Overall Impression We enjoyed visiting the Yukon Territory in Canada. The most striking aspects of the Yukon, located in the northwest most corner of Canada, are its pristine wilderness regions and extremely low human population density.

We stayed a few nights in the city of Whitehorse, which is the capital of the Yukon. While in Whitehorse we enjoyed some of the local restaurants, which featured local northern favorites like wild salmon and some wild game. We also took a trolley ride through Whitehorse where we learned about the history of the city and the surrounding area. We visited the beautiful 22,000 square kilometer Kluane National Park.

The Alaskan highway runs along the northern edge of the park. Even though much of the park is remote wilderness and is accessible only to the hardiest backpackers and mountaineers, thanks to its large size there is a vast area accessible from the Alaskan highway. This park and the surrounding parks adjacent to it make up one of the largest protected wilderness areas in the world.

We visited the Kluane Wildlife Preserve ( www.yukonwildlife.ca ). Located less than 30 minutes from Whitehorse by car, it is one of the best wildlife preserves of this type we have ever visited. We were surprised to find this gem located in such a remote area and populated by many of the larger Yukon animals inside vast fenced natural habitat areas. On a striking summer day, we completed the 3 mile (5 kilometers) self guided walking tour through the preserve. Other tourists took the bus tour, which also runs through the preserve.

During our stay we saw grizzly bear, black bear, seagulls, gray jays, ravens, redhead ducks, loonies, mallard ducks, king fishers, arctic squirrels, chipmunks, coyotes, dall sheep and lynx. At the Yukon Wildlife Preserve we saw mountain blue birds, arctic squirrels, and in the enclosures we saw muskoxen, moose, mountain goats, woodland caribou, mule deer, elk, wood bison, dall sheep and stone sheep

Climate The climate is arctic and subarctic. Winters are long, dry and cold. Summers are short with very long days. During our visit it was light 24 hours a day. In the Yukon we saw The Midnight Sun.

Cost Of Visiting Slightly higher than in the U.S. In extremely remote areas the cost of living was much higher than in the U.S.

Currency The Canadian dollar. At the time of this writing one Canadian dollar exchanged for approximately one U.S. dollar.

Electrical Power System 120 volts

Health And Vaccinations There were no mandatory inoculations to enter Canada. There were no warnings for travel to this region.

How To Get There We flew to Vancouver and then took a flight to Whitehorse where we took a lodge provided shuttle to our first destination. Later in our trip we rented a car at the airport.

Location The Yukon is located in the northwest corner of Canada.

Measures Metric system

Money Issues Cities and airports had banking facilities for currency exchange. ATM’s were commonly available in hotels and towns.

Technology Telephone, Internet and fax service were available in major cities. Cellular phone service was available near the city of Whitehorse. The remote camp we visited had satellite Internet service.

Time Pacific Time

Transportation We traveled around the Yukon by rental car and found the roads to be in excellent condition. Rental cars and taxis were available in Whitehorse. Because gas stations were sometimes far and few between in remote regions we had to plan in advance to avoid running out of gasoline.

Facilities In the cities there was a modern infrastructure. We saw gas stations, hospitals, banks, hardware stores, big box stores, pharmacies, clothing, restaurants and grocery stores. In remote areas, the infrastructure was more typical of small towns. There we saw gas stations, hotels, restaurants, grocery stores, and small general stores.

Souvenirs We saw jewelry, Native American arts and crafts, T-shirts, sweat shirts, hats and clothing with regional names and icons embroidered on them. There were also locally made syrups, candies, fudge shops, organic soaps, coffees and teas, sports outfitters, book stores featuring books with photography and history about the region, travel stores, and information centers.

Tourism Highlights The major appeal for tourism in the Yukon is the large pristine wilderness regions. The entire territory which is 186,660 square miles (483,450 square kilometers) only has about 32,000 people living in it. Approximately 25,000 of them live in the capital city Whitehorse making the population density in the countryside extremely low.

The Yukon is the home of Canada’s tallest mountain, Mount Logan which reaches 19,551 feet and is located in the Kluane National Park. This is also the second tallest peak in North America, after Mount McKinley in Alaska.

Travelers visit the area for the whitewater rafting, hiking, hunting, fishing, wildlife viewing, canoeing, kayaking, riding, skiing, snowboarding, mountain climbing, rock climbing, ice climbing, and dog sledding opportunities.

Other Most of the local public electrical power in the Yukon comes from a hydroelectric generation station located on the south side of Whitehorse.

The Yukon is famous for its minerals and mining in the region. In the late 1800’s, the Klondike Gold rush caused the Yukon to be separated off from the Northwest Territories and become an independent territory. The major minerals mined in this region are lead, zinc, silver, gold, asbestos and copper.

Reviewers Article by Chester Godsy

Photos by Joni Johnson-Godsy

Would You Visit There Again? Yes