Overall Impression Travel from Quito, the decidedly 21st century capital of Ecuador, to the Napo Wildlife Center, deep in the Yasuni National Park was an easy journey back in time. It was less than a one-hour flight to Coca, a small town on the Napo River, which seemed to hark back half a century, until I noticed the proliferation of mobile phones along its busy streets and the modern boat dock. I boarded the awaiting Napo Wildlife Center motorboat with my guide Roberto, who had flown with me from Quito, and headed downriver into the timeless immensity of the Amazon Basin. Before long, the Napo River, although still almost 1,000 kilometers (600 miles) from its confluence with the Amazon, was already several hundred meters wide, its distant banks a soaring jumble of rainforest. A couple of hours later, we left its cappuccino-colored waters (caused by sediment washed from the Andes Mountains) and turned into the so-called black waters of a narrow inlet; they were actually the color of strong tea, steeped in the tannins of rainforest vegetation. We had entered the northwest corner of the Yasuni National Park, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve regarded by scientists as one of the highest bio-diversity areas on the planet.

We exchanged the motorboat for an awaiting canoe (no motorized crafts were allowed in the park) and quietly glided upstream under a thick arch of mangroves and palms echoing with birdcalls. We were in the crown jewel of the park, the ancestral territory of the Kichwa Anangu community. The abundance of wildlife was far superior to anything I had previously experienced in other areas of the Amazonian rainforest, and Roberto ensured I didn’t miss a single sighting. The 2.5 kilometer (1.5 mile) ride is estimated to take a little over one hour. Ours took twice that long. But one three-toed sloth, several monk saki and red howler monkeys and a dizzying variety of birds later, we emerged from the river onto the Anangucocha Lake. On the far side of the lake, a village of thatched-roofed, bright ocher adobe bungalows was nestled in the exuberant vegetation, and staff was hurrying toward the dock to welcome us with glasses of fresh mango juice. We were back in the best the present has to offer. In the heart of a great swath of pristine rainforest, the Napo Wildlife Center luxury eco-lodge sat on a low lakeshore ridge. The property and the 21,400 hectares (82 square miles) of conservation land that surround it were, at the time of my visit, wholly owned and managed by the Anangu community; and an inspiring testimonial to its determination to improve the quality of life of its people and preserve the integrity of their ancestral territory and culture by providing them with sustainable employment.

The lodge was designed to meet the high expectations of international visitors, including airy individual bungalows with well-appointed bathrooms and generous hot water pressure. There was round the clock electricity, and WiFi connection throughout, including the hammock on my private terrace overlooking the lake. At the top of the ridge, the common areas included a 19 meter (60 foot) thatched observation tower with a sweeping view of the lake. It was an ideal vantage point to enjoy the constant activity of the bird population nesting and feeding around the lodge grounds. Beyond the outstanding facilities and exceptional wildlife, what made my visit unique was the opportunity to observe first hand the positive impact of the Napo Wildlife Center program on the daily life of the Anangu people. The staff came mainly from the Kichwa Anangu community. Their pride in the Napo Wildlife Center was obvious, and translated into warm and attentive service. It was clear that everyone with whom I came in contact wanted to make my visit an unforgettable Amazon experience. Additionally, while the life of the community was separated from tourism activities, one hour downstream from the lodge, the women had created an association, Kuri Muyi (Kichwa for River Gold) with an Interpretation Center facility adjacent to their village. It was especially interesting to meet these women, who gave me a glimpse at the tasks of their daily lives as well as their traditional crafts and dances.

With its outstanding blend of luxury wilderness accommodations, pristine environment, abundant and varied wildlife and successful responsible tourism practices, the Napo Wildlife Center earned the prestigious Rainforest Alliance 2009 Community Sustainable Standard-Setter award. It also made the top of my personal short list of rainforest experiences. I have already recommended it to friends who share my commitment to low impact sustainable tourism and who are considering an Amazon adventure.

Camp Manager Miguel Andy. At the time of my visit on-site manager was Veronika Govea

Children The property could accommodate, by prior arrangement, children over the age of four.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury eco-lodge

Communications There was no cell phone signal in the park. Satellite WiFi was available throughout the property; speed was moderate but sufficient to place internet telephone calls. There was a nominal fee for internet access.

Handicapped Access One bungalow had an access ramp and was wheelchair friendly.

Length Of Stay Four nights

Location On the shore of the Anangucocha Lake, within the Yasuni National Park in Northeastern Ecuador, 250 kilometers east of Quito: three hours downstream from Coca by motorboat and canoe.

Owned-Managed The Napo Wildlife Center was wholly owned and managed by the Kichwa Anangu community. It is the brainchild of Jiovanny Rivadeneira, a once subsistence farmer and hunter who had gone on to be a boatswain, then guide and ornithology specialist before returning to the community. Rivadeneira has been a leading force behind the program and remained its general manager.

Power There was round the clock electricity throughout the property. It was supplied by silent generators supplemented by solar panels.

Size The lodge consisted of 16 individual bungalows that could accommodate a maximum of 48 guests. It employed a staff of 60 including 10 guides. There were 10 paddle canoes for travel around the park, and three motorboats that ensured transportation for guests, staffs and goods between Coca and the lodge.

Year Open-Renovated The property opened in 2003. It was the object of meticulous on-going maintenance.

Lobby And Common Areas The open plan main lodge held all common areas. It was a large raised structure of wood and thatch in the traditional Kichwa style, open to the forest and the lake to let in cooling breezes and scenic views. The floor was made of dark, polished hardwood planking. In the center of the space, rows of heavy rectangular tables were arranged refectory style, surrounded by matching chairs with tawny cotton cushions. The rear wall divided the common areas from the kitchen and service area. It was covered in a mosaic of bright green-lacquered pebbles. In the center of the wall, a sideboard held a permanent coffee and tea service. To the left, a recessed area housed the library. Tall bookcases were filled with reference books on the natural history, biology and conservation of the Amazon, and a small lending library of contemporary fiction. There were also glass-fronted display cases with an assortment of branded t-shirts and other Napo Wildlife Center souvenirs, and a desktop computer with Internet connection for guest use. In the center of the library space, two open-arm wooden armchairs with tawny cushions faced a square coffee table. To the left, a staircase led to a mezzanine furnished with sofas, armchairs and coffee tables similar to those in the library, and a pull-down projection screen for slide presentations. At the far end of the main hall, under the mezzanine, there was a U-shaped built-in full-service bar outlined by eight wooden barstools. From the mezzanine, a stairway led up to the thatched viewing platform of the observation tower.

Bathroom The spacious bathroom had a large glass-enclosed shower with rain showerhead and good water pressure. The floor and the walls behind the flush commode and the shower were covered in natural stone tiles. The outer, white plaster wall had a large window with natural cotton draperies. It also held a vanity with a built-in sink, a wood-framed rectangular mirror, and wooden soap and toothbrush holders. Near the shower a towel rack held large white terrycloth towels.

Room My 43 square meter (450 square foot) bungalow, Number Six, was an inviting adobe and thatch retreat with screened-in picture windows on all four walls. The walls were white plaster, which enhanced the dark polished hardwood floors and peaked thatched ceiling. My shaded terrace faced the lake. With its two rattan armchairs and inviting white cotton hammock, it immediately became my favorite lounging spot. The main bedroom had a king size bed covered in a tawny and white cotton quilt and draped in mosquito netting. There were bedside tables with reading lights on both sides of the bed. A deep bookcase with three storage shelves and a writing table and chair completed the décor. A high divider separated the main bedroom from a smaller area with a matching double bed.

Food Meals were a blend of continental and Ecuadorian dishes, abundant, wholesome and well prepared. Breakfast was served buffet-style with choices of fresh-cut tropical fruits and juices, yoghurt, granola and breakfast breads. Eggs and breakfast meats were available on order. Lunch and dinner were served plated. The lodge was equipped with a reverse osmosis water filtration system that ensured safe food preparation and drinking water. Special dietary requirements could be accommodated by prior arrangement.

Amenities There were two umbrellas and an electronic safe in the room, and pitchers of water for drinking and oral hygiene. Bathroom amenities included dispensers of good quality house brand biodegradable shampoo, conditioner and body wash. There were extra-large, heavy-duty rain ponchos on all the canoes; rubber boots were available as needed for excursions. A refillable water bottle was provided, to be used during my visit and kept for future use.

Meals and soft drinks were complimentary, as were all activities and guided tours, transfers to and from Coca Airport to the lodge and canoe transportation around the park. Alcoholic beverages were available from the bar and priced individually.

Facilities In addition to the observation tower attached to the main hall, another, taller observation tower was located across the lake, a 45 minute canoe and walking trip from the lodge. Built alongside a giant kapok tree, a 38 meter (125 foot) high platform offered a superb perspective of the wildlife above the forest canopy. There was also a thatched bird-viewing blind with benches and chairs, deep in the forest 30 minutes down river from the lodge. It faced a salt and clay lick visited daily by large flocks of parrots and parakeets. The blind was a 30 minute walk from the river bank, easily accessible by a neatly paved path.

Gift Shop In addition to a small gift case at the lodge, local pottery, weavings and jewelry by craftswomen of the Kuri Muyi association were available at the Anangu Interpretation Center.

Game Viewing The game viewing was exceptional, not only due to the abundant wildlife but because of the excellent guiding. At Napo, guides came in pairs: a bilingual, state-licensed guide and a native Yasuni Park-licensed ranger who doubled as a local guide. My guide, Roberto Cedeno, and ranger, Fabian Coquinchini, made an impressive team. Together, they had an uncanny talent to turn even the slightest quiver of the foliage into a sighting. And Roberto, an expert ornithologist and naturalist, and 24-year veteran of Amazon guiding, could concisely articulate the significance of each sighting within the context of natural history and environmental conservation.

Mammals I sighted included: pigmy marmoset, golden-manteled tamarin; howler, squirrel, night, monk saki and white-fronted capuchin monkeys, and brown-throated three-toed sloth. Amphibians included: green tree frog, black caiman, water turtle and forest dragon lizard. Butterflies: owl and iridescent blue morpho.

Birds: rufescent-tiger, striated and capped herons; hoatzin bird; great and undulated tinamou, swallow-tailed, snail and plumbeous kite; great yellow-headed vulture, black hawk, red-throated caracara, Buckley’s forest falcon, Salvin’s curassow and speckled chachalaca; blue and yellow, red and green, and scarlet macaws, dusky-headed and cobalt-winged parakeets, scarlet-shouldered parrotlet and Mealy Amazon parrot; greater Ani, pygmy owl, ladder-tailed nightjar and olive-spotted hummingbird; Amazon, ringed, green and pygmy kingfishers; ivory-billed aracari, white-throated and channel-billed toucans; rusty-belted tapaculo, great potoo, yellow-breasted flycatcher, lesser kiskadee, red-throated caracara and limpkin.

Activities There were twice daily excursions (early morning and mid-to-late afternoon) either hiking, canoeing, or a combination of the two.

Other The Napo Wildlife Center program engaged in rigorous sustainable tourism practices. All profits from the lodge were reinvested in the community, with education and healthcare as highest priorities. The program supported a small high school, including teacher salaries, school supplies and breakfast and lunch for the students. In addition to general education, the school offered a vocational degree in tourism. The center also returned a share of the annual profits to each family and a stipend to the elderly. It also donated medicines to the government clinic in Anangu. To limit the lodge’s impact on its environment, it has implemented an environmentally sustainable sewage system, with all waste waters treated to the highest standards before being released into the swamps. Trash was kept to a minimum and composted whenever possible. What was safe to burn was burned and buried, and the remainder transported to designated landfills outside the park. These practices have been extended to the Anangu community. Each family now has a composting toilet, and separates its trash, with non-organic materials placed in bags along the riverbank weekly for pick up by the center’s boat for transport to the recycling center. The Center also engaged in an aggressive anti-poaching program, with its conservation land patrolled by community rangers employed and equipped by the lodge.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Visit February 2012

Reviewers Article and Photographs by Josette King

Service My bungalow was serviced twice daily. Every member of the staff with whom I came in contact was friendly and attentive.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Ever since Charles Darwin’s momentous scientific visit to the Galapagos Islands over one and a half century ago, this small archipelago of sun-baked volcanic rocks sprinkled across 45,000 square kilometers (17,000 square miles) of Pacific Ocean has captured the imagination of adventure travelers. I had long yearned to visit this place so remote that its iconic fauna and flora are unique on the planet. But I sensed that, like most of the over 150,000 yearly tourists who have visited recently, mine would be a once in a lifetime trip. Therefore I wanted to plan the ultimate wilderness travel experience, only to be confused by seemingly endless cruising options. Until I came across the intimate, nine staterooms M/Y Grace.

The elegant white yacht had an oddly familiar look; a puzzling thought, since luxury seagoing vessels have never been part of my world. Further research confirmed that I had once enjoyed the Grace, if only vicariously. It was then named the Deo Juvante II, Latin for “with God’s help,” after the motto of the house of Grimaldi, the rulers for almost a millennium of the tiny French Riviera principality of Monaco. Its owner was the reigning prince, Rainier III, and for a few springtime weeks in 1956, the Deo Juvante II had been front-page news across all French magazines and movie screens. I still remember a news clip of the slick white yacht gliding to a halt alongside a huge ocean liner. On its deck, the dashing prince had come to welcome his bride-to-be, the beautiful American movie star Grace Kelly. The following week, Prince Rainer and the now Princess Grace had boarded the yacht for a seven-week honeymoon around the Mediterranean. This was the stuff schoolgirls’ fairytales were made of.

Fast forward half a century during which the vessel changed ownership several times before being acquired in 2007 by Eduardo Diez, the owner of Quasar Galapagos Expeditions and a man with a passion for classic yachts. Diez undertook a two-year, $2.5 million overhaul of the ship while preserving its distinctive classic lines. A state-of-the-art stabilizer system was added for ultra smooth sailing on the open waters of the Galapagos Archipelago. Throughout the ship, understated luxury spoke of the refined elegance of its earlier grandeur, albeit with a large hot tub on the sundeck, a modern bathroom in each stateroom and air conditioning throughout. The yacht was then renamed Grace in homage to its most illustrious owner. I trust the late princess would approve.

However, the superb comfort of the Grace and the attentive service of its friendly crew merely set the stage for one of the most exhilarating wilderness experiences of my traveling life. The itinerary of its seven-night cruise was designed to take us to the farthest reaches of the archipelago, to places rarely visited by larger ships. Our naturalist guide, Rafael (Rafa for short) was remarkable. A third generation native of the islands, and an ornithology graduate from San Francisco University in Quito, Rafa coupled an encyclopedic knowledge of the natural history of the islands with the familiarity of one who has swum since childhood in the waters of its most secluded coves. Our daily excursions consistently brought close encounters with some of the most exceptional wildlife ever. We wandered on sugary sand beaches shared only with sea lions and hiked along black lava rock paths to observe at close range the courtship ritual of Nazca boobies and waved albatross.

We rode our panga (local inflatable zodiac-type skiffs) along the edge of vertical cliffs alive with blue-footed boobies and tiny Galapagos penguins, and gingerly picked our way around carpets of marine iguanas, trying to avoid their random sneezes of seawater. But for me, the highpoint of the day was invariably our snorkeling expedition. Island after island, Rafa led us to the most exotic marine life I have ever observed. We swam surrounded by so many giant sea turtles that it was a challenge to get out of their way. I spent many blissful moments floating above dense schools of fish in every color of the rainbow. We even spotted a hammerhead shark, mercifully unconcerned by our presence.

It is a statistical fact that few tourists, no matter how memorable their experience, make a return visit to the Galapagos. Yet in spite of the remoteness of this outstanding destination, I would happily return, just for the pleasure of another exquisite cruise on the M/Y Grace, and for the thrill of snorkeling day after day in pristine waters teaming with some of the most spectacular marine life on the planet.

Children Quasar Expedition welcomed children of all ages on pre-arranged family cruises.

Crew Captain Jimmy Jimenez, a native of Guayaquil, had over 20 years experience sailing the Galapagos waters. The M/Y Grace had a crew of eight, plus one naturalist (Rafael Pesantes Aguirre). The crew increases to 10, plus two naturalists for voyages of over 10 guests.

Duration Eight days

Established The company was founded in 1986 by Eduardo Diez.

Internet Connectivity There was no internet connectivity on the yacht.

Location The Galapagos Archipelago straddles the equator in the Pacific Ocean, 1,000 kilometers (600 miles) off the coast of Ecuador in South America.

Owned-Managed Quasar Expeditions, a private company based in Quito, Ecuador, owned and managed by the Diez family.

Sailing Route In order of sailing dates, I visited the following islands: San Cristobal, Genovesa, Isabela, Fernandina, Bartolomé, Santa Cruz, Espanola and Mosquera.

Size And Main Features Of Vessel The classic luxury yacht M/Y Grace was built in 1928 by Camper & Nicholsons, South Hampton, England. It had an overall length of 44 meters (145 feet), a seven meter (22 foot) beam and a 3.6 meter (12 foot) draft. Its maximum speed was 12 knots per hour. Its nine staterooms could accommodate up to 18 passengers.

Transportation There were two commercial airports in the Galapagos, one on San Cristobal, the easternmost island, and the other on Baltra, in the center of the archipelago. Two domestic carriers, AeroGal and Tame, operated daily flights to both from Quito with stopovers in Guayaquil.

Description The magic of Darwin’s Enchanted Islands began to unfold the instant I set foot on the tarmac of San Cristobal airport. In no time, the efficient staff of the Grace had my six cruise companions and I identified from the chaos of arriving passengers. They retrieved our luggage and whisked us to the dock where we had to wend our way around dozing sea lions to reach an awaiting panga . They were the first clue that we had entered the unique world of the Galapagos Islands, where abundant wildlife is underfoot at every turn and unconcerned by human intrusion. A quick ride across the tranquil waters of the harbor and Captain Jimmy Jimenez and his crew were welcoming us aboard the yacht. The remainder of the day was a time to wind down after the long journey, and to get acquainted with the laid-back luxury of life on the Grace. As soon as I was settled in my spacious light-filled stateroom, I was able to enjoy a cooling ocean swim by the yacht. Later that evening, we were treated to a brilliant equatorial sunset with our pre-dinner drinks as we got underway for the seven-hour journey to Genovesa, the northernmost island of the archipelago.

When I woke up the next morning, the Grace was anchored in a tranquil horseshoe bay, the partially collapsed caldera that forms Great Darwin Bay. Soon, we were on a panga exploration of the base of a dark ten-story high cliff teaming with blue-footed boobies, brown pelicans and lava gulls, while squadrons of great frigate birds quarreled overhead. We had not yet landed, and already we were in a birder’s paradise. Once we reached land, the famed Prince Philip’s steps (chiseled in the rock face for the 1964 visit of the British royal) looked impossibly steep, but the sturdy hand rails helped and a few minutes later I emerged onto a sun drenched plateau bristling with lava rocks and spindly Palo Santo trees. Red-footed boobies, the only members of the booby family to nest above ground, filled the trees. The path was lined with their Nazca cousins courting or cautiously shading their twin eggs within the rudimentary perimeter of their sparse twig and feather nests. We continued on to the south side of the island where tens of thousands of tiny storm petrels rode the ocean breeze in unison. By late morning, we were back on the yacht. Pitchers of fresh fruit juices and tempting snacks awaited. Thus restored, we donned our wetsuits and snorkeling equipment. The next hour, spent in a relatively shallow area near the southern side of the cliffs, was underwater heaven. The water was brimming with life. It would be a challenge to remember all the bright colors and shapes for Rafa to identify back on the ship.

A fellow swimmer motioned to something that required no introduction: a hammerhead shark! By lunchtime, as we sat down to a delectable al fresco meal, I wondered if anything, ever, could match that exhilarating morning. The afternoon did, when we returned to shore for a swim among the sea lions on Darwin Beach, and eye-to-eye encounters with more exotic birds. And so did the next day, when we swam among giant green sea turtles, eagle stingrays and flightless cormorants, along the bright coral reef of Isabela. And when we cautiously made our way around heaps of marine iguanas sprawled all over Fernandina. Then there was Bartolomé, where we anchored by Pinnacle Rock, the giant black spike jutting out of the shore and arguably the most distinctive landmark of the Galapagos. There, we climbed to the top of the extinct volcanic cone with its orange and black formations to take in the lunar landscapes of the island and islets beyond. And Barchas Beach in Santa Cruz where sea lion pups seemed determined to follow us home. The powdery sand beach is one of the main sea turtle nesting grounds in the Galapagos and its back lagoons are home to majestic greater flamingos.

After nearly one week of near isolation in stunning wilderness, anchoring in Puerto Ayora, the largest town of the archipelago with a population of over 12,000 and a modern tourism infrastructure, was a jarring experience. It is home to the Darwin Research Center and its most famous resident, the venerable Lonesome George. The giant tortoise estimated to be over one hundred years old and the last known specimen of the Pinta Island tortoise. A visit was de rigueur. I was happy to head to Espanola next, the southernmost island of the chain, for one last full day of wilderness. Due to its remote location, the island boasts a number of endemic species, including an especially colorful coral and turquoise marine iguana, and the waved albatross for which it is the only breeding ground (the island’s especially high cliffs are necessary for the fledglings to launch on their far flung journey).

Cabin My upper deck Master Suite, Number A1, was a light-filled 18.6 square meter (200 square foot) stateroom with picture windows along both outer walls. It was decorated in relaxing earth tones with rich wood wainscoting on all four walls and built-in bookshelves beneath the windows of the far wall. Matching two-drawer bedside chests sat beside the superbly comfortable pedestal king size bed clad in crisp, high-count white cotton bedding. Above the headboard, the wall was upholstered in white cotton damask, as was the coffered ceiling that outlined the bed. The remaining wall space was covered in taupe wallpaper. A contemporary seascape watercolor hung in the center of the wall opposite the bed. To its left, a large built-in floor to ceiling armoire provided generous storage space. To the right, a door led into the bathroom. Taupe carpeting covered the floor. One black leather armchair completed the décor. In addition to spot lighting built into the ceiling, there were adjustable arc reading lights on either side of the bed.

Common Areas The common areas were designed for indoor-outdoor living and a casual luxury atmosphere. The lounge, bar and dining room were in the center of the main deck . The entire area was decorated in natural tones with wood-coffered ceilings, hardwood floors enhanced by contemporary area rugs and pale walls with wooden accents. Picture windows with natural cotton draperies lined the outer walls. Long sectional sofas in matching natural shades sat under the windows. Three wooden drum tables with marble tops served as coffee tables. A built-in credenza with a matching marble top separated the lounge from the bar. The far end of the room had a built-in entertainment center with an oversized LCD screen, a high quality sound system, and a small collection of movies. Glass-fronted library shelves held an assortment of reference books on the geology and natural history of the Galapagos, and a small lending library of contemporary fiction. A fully enclosed galley and a side corridor separated the dining room from the lounge.

The dining room featured three large rectangular double pedestal tables surrounded by comfortable woven bamboo high back chairs for family-style seating. The bar opened onto a canvas-shaded al fresco dining area at the rear of the main deck. Tables were similar to those in the dining room, with heavy wooden ladder-back chairs. In the bow, a sundeck was surrounded by storage banquettes. In the center of the deck, the hot tub was an especially popular gathering spot after snorkeling.

A large shaded open-air lounge and bar occupied the rear of the upper deck, where four dark rattan sofas with crimson canvas cushions were arranged in a square around a cluster of circular occasional tables. The far corners of the lounge held matching groupings of three armchairs arranged around a similar table. A full service bar with a travertine marble top and two bar stools stood against the partition separating the lounge from the four upper deck staterooms and the bridge beyond. Above the bridge, a roof deck lined with eight lounging chaises with crimson and gold striped canvas cushions was an ideal retreat for sunning or stargazing. The lower deck housed five staterooms off a central corridor. All indoor common areas as well the guest staterooms were centrally air-conditioned.

Bathroom The head or bathroom was remarkably roomy. It had a large glass-enclosed shower with rain showerhead and good water pressure, a full-size flush commode and a marble-top vanity with built-in sink and a wood-framed rectangular mirror. Ceiling spotlights and a porthole with unpolished glass provided the lighting. The wall treatment was similar to that of the bedroom. On the wall near the shower a towel rack held large white terrycloth towels. A ring by the vanity held hand towels.

Meals The menu offered an interesting balance of continental and South American cuisines, with dishes beautifully prepared and presented. Breakfast was served buffet-style with choices of fresh cut tropical fruits and juices, yogurt, cereals and freshly baked breads as well as eggs and breakfast meats. Lunch started with a cold soup (the scrumptious local fish and shrimp ceviche in its tangy lime broth was my favorite) or salad, followed by a hot buffet of meat and vegetable, and a chilled dessert. Dinner was served plated, most often with a local appetizer or soup first course followed by an assortment of fish and meat with vegetables and a lovely pastry dessert. Special dietary requirements could be accommodated by prior arrangement.

Specialty Luxury yacht wilderness exploration

Amenities There was a large electronic safe, two life vests and two refillable water bottles in the cabin, the later to be used through the trip and kept for future use. Toiletries included a box of tissues, dispensers of high quality house brand hand soap, shower gel, shampoo and conditioner, and a hair dryer.

Meals and soft drinks were complimentary, as were all activities and guided tours on water and on shore, transportation to and from the ship and use of wet suits, snorkeling equipment and kayaks. Alcoholic beverages were available from the bar and priced individually.

Activities There were daily excursions on land and on the water, as well as snorkeling expeditions. Whenever the yacht was anchored, guests were welcome to swim or kayak.

Birds I sighted included: waved albatross, American oystercatcher, Nazca, red-footed and blue-footed booby, Galapagos greater flamingo, flightless cormorant, Galapagos penguin, magnificent and great frigate bird, Galapagos hawk, yellow crowned night and lava heron, brown pelican, red billed tropicbird, swallow-tailed, lava and Franklin’s gulls, vermillion and Galapagos flycatcher, Galapagos storm petrel; large ground, sharp-beaked ground, cactus and warbler finch, yellow warbler, Galapagos mocking bird, Galapagos dove. Reptiles included: giant tortoise, land iguana, marine iguana, lava lizard. Marine life included: Sally Lightfoot crab, giant green sea turtle, eagle stingray, Galapagos sea lion, hammerhead and white fin shark; ocean sunfish, Moorish idol, white-banded angel, yellow-tailed damsel, king angel, razor and surgeon fish; pacific octopus and multiple varieties of coral, including crimson and purple star.

Tours-Excursions In addition to daily panga tours and nature walks on the various islands, we enjoyed a walking tour of San Cristobal, a day long shore visit to Puerto Ayora, including a tour of the Darwin Research Center, and a drive to a mountaintop sanctuary for giant Galapagos tortoises.

Other Electricity was available around the clock throughout the guest and public areas. Cell phone signal was available only when in port in San Cristobal, Santa Cruz and Baltra.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of The Voyage January 2012

Reviewers Article and Photographs by Josette King

Service My stateroom was serviced twice daily. Every member of the crew was friendly and attentive. Any request I made was promptly and cheerfully handled.

Would You Take This Voyage Again? Yes

Overall Impression Casa del Caballo Blanco was an intimate retreat on the outskirts of San Ignacio, in the Cayo District of western Belize. Perched on a scenic hilltop, it offered a panoramic view of the rolling hills on the northern bank of the Mopan River valley and the mountains of Guatemala to the west. The property was a birdwatcher’s delight. Flocks of red-lored parrots frequently flew overhead and hummingbirds hovered by the blooming shrubs around the grounds. The air echoed with bird calls from dawn until late in the night. The entrance to the recently completed Tz’unuun birding trail was a five-minute walk from the guest cabanas down a gently sloping meadow. This private 1.7 mile (2.5 kilometers) hiking trail meandered through a recently reforested area that was part of the 15 acre (60,000 square meters) habitat restoration project in progress on the property during my visit.

The lodge was located within a few miles of several noted Maya archeological sites, including Xunantunich and El Pilar. In addition to its convenient location and casually comfortable accommodations, what made Casa del Caballo Blanco a memorable destination was its exceptional hospitality. The staff were so genuinely welcoming that I immediately felt like a long time friend rather than a guest. They offered me the opportunity to participate in the everyday life of the lodge. As soon as I expressed my interest in local cuisine to Gracie Obando, the cheerful and knowledgeable head cook, she invited me to tag along to the large open air food market in nearby San Ignacio, where she carefully handpicked the provisions for our meals. I subsequently spent a most enjoyable afternoon in her kitchen, while she patiently initiated me to making bolos (a local version of tamales ).

I was also able to accompany a member of the staff as he delivered palm fronds trimmed off the property’s trees to a neighbor, Rennatto Fruitas, for fuel to cure the banana leaves used in traditional Mayan cooking. Although only a few miles away, the partially off-road trip took us deep into the forest to the remote clearing where Rennatto lived and worked. I was warmly welcomed by this remarkable elderly Mestizo gentleman, who demonstrated the curing process for me before taking me on a tour of his rainforest domain. He introduced me to a wide variety of local trees, from the original Maya cocoa, pomegranate and star fruit to several unusual citrus trees, explaining their many properties and uses; and invited me to sample their fruits. Meanwhile, the abundance of fruit attracted a variety of birds and butterflies, making the visit an expecially rewarding bird-watching experience.

In this overwhelmingly rural area of Western Belize, La Casa del Caballo Blanco offered comfortable modern accommodations with easy access to the area’s high concentration of natural and archeological riches, and provided a unique opportunity to experience the authentic atmosphere of a small Belizean community.

Class Of Accommodation Eco-friendly lodge

Communications Satellite internet connection was available in La Sala from early morning until late evening. Cellular phone service was fully operational in the area.

Handicapped Access No 

Length Of Stay Five nights

Location Casa del Caballo Blanco was located one mile west of San Ignacio, the capital of the Cayo District of western Belize, near the Guatemalan border.

Manager Jodi E. Benté

Owners Vance, Jodi and Paige Benté

Power The entire lodge was on the electrical power grid and ran on 120 volts with U.S. plugs.

Size The lodge consisted of six guest rooms that could accommodate a maximum of 18 guests. The complex was situated on a 23 acre (93,000 square meters) private property. It employed a permanent staff of seven.

Transportation The lodge could be reached by air through Belize City. From there it was a 65 mile (105 kilometers) drive on the Western Highway. Pick-up at the airport and transportation could be arranged by the lodge.

Year Open-Renovated Casa del Caballo Blanco was a newly built facility that began receiving guests in early 2006.

Common Areas The common areas included two separate structures: the hacienda-style main building housed the reception office and La Sala,the main common room of the lodge; and the kitchen and dining room, a short paved walkway away across the lawn. Both buildings featured meticulously crafted woodwork and tiled floors reminiscent of the classic hacienda style, and handsome mahogany furniture produced by local artisans. Bright Guatemalan textile wall-hangings completed the décor.

La Sala consisted of two distinct areas separated by a wooden railing. The 12 x 18 foot (3.5 x 5.5 meters) lower level formed a foyer. A large armoire occupied the back wall, while a credenza table was centered against the end wall. A lamp table and four wooden armchairs completed the arrangement. One step above the foyer, the room was furnished library style, with six rectangular tables each surrounded by four wooden chairs. It was a convenient place to read or write, or connect a laptop to the wireless internet service available from early morning to late evening. La Sala opened onto a tiled terrace overlooking the Tz’unuun trail and the hills north of the Mopan River. The dining room could comfortably accommodate up to thirty guests at tables for four or six that could also be joined together for a long, family-style setting.

Bathroom A large shower stall tiled in dark green ceramic occupied the back of the 48 square foot (4.5 square meters) private bath. Two wooden wall-hung racks held an ample supply of white cotton bath towels. Bathroom fixtures included a flush toilet, a sink set in a tiled counter topped with a wooden shelf and a mirror. Hot and cold running water was available.

Room A row of three stucco and thatched cabanas housed the six, semi-detached guest casitas, all named after local birds. My casita , the forked-tailed fly-catcher room, was an easy two minute walk from the common areas. It was a spacious 280 square foot (26 square meters) sleeping and sitting room with large screened and shuttered windows on three sides for excellent ventilation. The steep palm-thatched roof also featured a ceiling fan. The walls were of warm yellow plaster that enhanced the mahogany furniture, shutters and the brown ceramic tile floor. The queen-size bed was covered with a bright purple spread made of Guatemalan textile. It was surrounded by immaculate mosquito netting and flanked by two bedside tables with reading lights. A writing table with a high back chair faced the front window and the sweeping view of the hills. A lamp table and two wooden armchairs were tucked into the far corner of the room. The bathroom and a large storage shelving unit occupied the wall that separated the casita from the remaining half of the building. 

Food The food was as delicious as it was varied. Each day started with pitchers of fresh local fruit juices; melon and star fruit were my personal favorites. Breakfast always included freshly made flour tortillas, fry-jacks (a Belizean version of sopapillas ), or Johnny-cakes (“melt in your mouth” biscuits). Dinner was an opportunity to experience the many ethnic specialties of this small and diverse country. Gracie Obando ensured that none were forgotten. In addition to her many Mayan specialties, I sampled chicken sopa de escabeche (with a nod to the Hispanic influence), a Creole pork stew, bright with recado rojo , a seasoning paste made from red achiote, and an astonishing red snapper poached in fresh coconut milk (a Garifuna delicacy).

Amenities Services and amenities included meals. The room was equipped with a small refrigerator stocked with bottles of drinking water. The bathroom was supplied with pump bottles of eco-friendly gel soap.

Facilities There was a reception office, sitting room and library, kitchen and dinning room, and the bird rehabilitation and intake and release buildings.

Wildlife viewing The area offered constant bird viewing opportunities. Birds sighted during my stay included: osprey, belted kingfisher, green kingfisher, aplomado falcon, social flycatcher, rose-breasted grosbeak, blue-black grosbeak, roadside hawk, great black hawk, red-lored parrot, cattle egret, slaty-breasted tinamou, grey-necked wood-rail, hook-billed kite, rufous-tailed hummingbird, pale-billed woodpecker, ivory-billed woodcreeper, collared aracari, keel-billed toucan, emerald toucanet, blue gray tanager, tropical kingbird, blue bunting, white-collared seedeater.

Activities A number of tours and activities could be arranged through the lodge. Archeological excursions were available to nearby Cahal Pech, Xunantunich and El Pilar, as well as to Caracol a little further a field and Tikal over the Guatemalan border. Spelunking expeditions could also be planned to several of the limestone underground caves that dotted the western flank of the Maya Mountains, from the popular and easily accessible Rio Frio cave, to more challenging Mayan cave sites such as Che Chem Ha and Actun Tunichal Muknal. Horse ridding under the forest canopy and rafting or tubing on the Mopan River were popular activities.

Other Casa del Caballo Blanco was home to Casa Avian Support Alliance, LLC, , a nonprofit facility for the rehabilitation and release of injured or captive birds. The new permanent intake and rehabilitation facility was in the final ramp-up stages at the time of my visit.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit November 2007

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service There was daily room service. Service was friendly and attentive. The staff’s exceptionally welcoming attitude was an outstanding asset of the lodge.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression A tiny country wedged along the Caribbean Sea between Mexico and Guatemala, Belize has long been recognized by water sport enthusiasts as a diving and snorkeling paradise. The country, the smallest in Central America (8,800 square miles or 23,000 square kilometers, slightly smaller than Massachusetts), boast the longest barrier reef in the western hemisphere (180 miles or 290 kilometers) along its 240 mile (386 kilometers) coastline. Until now, the sandy islands that straddle the reef (cayes in local parlance), reputed for their white coral sand beaches and spectacular underwater canyons, have been the country’s greatest attraction. However, Belize is also blessed with a lush interior of unspoiled rain forests rich in wildlife, birds and Mayan archeological treasures. To capitalize on these natural assets, the country has designated 40 percent of its landmass as national parks and nature reserves. The Cayo District, with its 2,000 square miles (5,200 square kilometers) of verdant rolling hills along the Macal and Mopan rivers, offers especially scenic attractions. Home to the two most important Maya ruins in the country, Caracol and Xunantunich, as well as several nature reserves including the reputed Blue Hole and Guanacaste National Parks, it is increasingly becoming a favored destination of eco-tourists.

Formerly a British colony known as British Honduras, Belize is the only Central American country with English as its official language. But there is otherwise not much visible British influence in this sleepy little nation. Rather, its sparse population of less than 300,000 is a mosaic of ethnic diversity that includes Mestizos (Spanish-Indians), Creoles (African-Europeans), Garifunas (African-Indians) and Mayans, as well as a few Anglo-Europeans and Asians. All seem to cohabitate cheerfully, giving the country the laid-back feel of a mainland Caribbean enclave.

During my recent visit, although foreign visitors were still few outside of the coastal areas and the tourism infrastructure was somewhat limited,a number of small eco-resorts and lodges were beginning to appear in the interior. With its linguistic advantage, its unspoiled natural and archeological resources and its proximity to North America, Belize seemed well on its way to turning its western highlands into another thriving eco-tourism destination.

Climate Average daytime temperatures were in the mid-to-high 80’s Fahrenheit with fairly high humidity, as is typical in tropical regions. There are two seasons in Belize: dry (December through April) and rainy (May through November). While the sky was often partially cloudy during my during my early November visit, rainfall consisted mainly of an occasional short late-afternoon drizzle.

Cost Of Visiting moderate

Currency The local currency is the Belizean dollar (BZ$). It has been pegged to the U.S. dollar since 1978 at the rate of 2 BZ$ to $1.

Electrical Current 120 volt with U.S. plugs

How To Get There There were daily non-stop flights between the Philip Goldson International Airport in Belize City and the southern U.S. gateways of Atlanta, Dallas, Houston and Miami, via American, Continental and Delta Airlines. There were also direct flights from major Central American cities via local airlines such as Groupo Taca. At the time of my visit, U.S., Canadian and E.U. citizens were not required to have a visa to enter Belize. The departure tax was $35.

Location Belize is located on the eastern coastline of Central America. It is bordered on the east by the Caribbean Sea, on the north by Mexico and on the west and south by Guatemala.

Measures English measurement system prevailed

Money Issues Currency could be exchanged at the airport in Belize City and in banks in most cities and tourist locations. Automated Teller Machines were found in these same areas; U.S. dollars were readily accepted. Credit cards were only reliably accepted in establishments catering to tourists.

Technology Electricity and running water were available in all areas visited by tourists, as was high speed internet connectivity. Cell phone service was widely available.

Time G.M.T minus six hours (e.g. U.S. Central Time during Standard Time). Belize did not observe Daylight Saving Time

Transportation From Belize City, air connections could be made to various coastal destinations within Belize, including Ambergris Bay Caye, Caulker Caye, Chapel, Pacencia and Punta Gorda. The road network was in poor condition. Although there were about 1,800 miles (2900 kilometers) of roads in the country, less than a quarter of them were paved. There were virtually no traffic lights; speed bumps were used liberally instead, even on main roads. Buses provided regular service to and from all the main towns.

Facilities Outside of the Belize City urban area, medical facilities were basic in hospitals and clinics in small towns , as were banks, grocery stores, post offices, gas stations and internet cafés.

Shopping And Souvenirs I found little shopping of note in Belize; only the usual souvenir shops with the ubiquitous local pottery and wood carving, obsidian plaques, jewelry and textiles. Basic necessities were readily available from local supermarkets.

Tourism Highlights For water enthusiasts, the coastal area of Belize had it all. With its barrier reef named as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, many considered the country a premiere scuba diving and snorkeling destination. Boating, fishing, windsurfing and parasailing were also popular activities. Meanwhile the mainland, with two-thirds of its land still forested, was reputed to be home to over 500 known species of birds. In addition to bird-watching, horseback riding under the forest canopy, river rafting and canoeing were favorite pastimes, as were archeological excursions. I especially enjoyed visiting the Mayan sites of Xunantunich and El Pilar. The partially excavated site of Xunantunich could only be reached via a picturesque 19th century hand-cranked ferry across the Mopan River. Once there, the largest pyramid, El Castillo, rose 132 feet (40 meters) to offer a circular view of the forest canopy of the Cayo District and nearby Guatemala. El Castillo also featured, on its east and west sides, the well-preserved remains of a spectacular frieze that had once surrounded the building. Straddling the Belize/Guatemalan border, El Pilar was a mainly unexcavated site where toucans far outnumbered tourists. Marked trails made it easy to explore the ruins while enjoying the fauna and flora that flourished in the mainly undisturbed jungle.

Date Of Last Visit November 2007

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Would You Visit Again? Yes

Overall Impression This tiny nation, with its remarkably diverse topography and natural treasures, was a pleasure to visit. With a landmass of just under 20,000 square miles, approximately the size of the West Virginia, or Denmark, it stands out as a premier tourism destination in Latin America for travelers drawn by its intense biodiversity. After experiencing some of the highest rates of deforestation on the planet in the 1960’s and 1970’s, Costa Rica engineered radical measures in the past two decades to reverse this alarming trend. One quarter of its land has been set aside for national parks and nature preserves. The country can now boast to being host to a startling five percent of the world’s biodiversity, including more than 800 recorded species of birds, 200 species of mammals, and 900 kinds of trees. Costa Rica attracts over one million foreign ecologically-minded tourists per year.

There are natural wonders for everyone to enjoy in Costa Rica. Its 800 miles of unspoiled beaches facing the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean make it a paradise for surfers, divers and other ocean sports enthusiasts. Between the two coasts, four rugged mountain ranges run north to south to an altitude of 12,500 feet. Mountain cloud forests, white-water rivers and waterfalls abound, as do tropical rain forests. There are also several active volcanoes. Rare and exotic wildlife flourishes, including sloth, jaguars, caiman, several varieties of sea turtles and monkeys, reptiles, and birds too numerous to count.

Although San Jose, the relatively modern capital city situated in a central valley between high volcanic mountains, is the point of entry for most foreign tourists, it is not the most exciting place to visit. As is often the case with Central America’s capitals, I found it shrill, polluted and of limited interest. I was glad it was only a transit point on my way to the idyllic southern Pacific coast’s Oca Peninsula.

Currency The local currency is the Costa Rican Colon. At the time of my visit, $1 = 508 Colones

Electrical Current 120 Volt

Health And Vaccinations There were no mandatory inoculations for travel to Costa Rica at the time of my visit. I followed the recommendations of the U.S. Center for Disease Control (CDC) and ascertained that my routine vaccination schedule was up to date prior to the trip. The need for insect repellent skin protection was minimal. Due to the proximity to the equator, high SPF sunscreen was a must. As always when traveling in Central America, unless otherwise indicated at a specific property, I used bottled water exclusively for drinking and oral hygiene.

Cost of visiting Moderate to expensive

Location Costa Rica is located 10 degrees north of the equator. Along with the Caribbean and Pacific coasts, its borders are defined by Nicaragua to the north and Panama to the south.

Measures Metric system

Money Issues Currency could be exchanged at an exchange booth in the Jose Santamaria International Airport, and at an ATM machine in the international arrival hall. Banks and hotels also provided this service. Since U.S. Dollars were readily accepted in places catering to tourists, I did not exchange any currency. I carried sufficient $1, $ 5 and $10 notes for incidental expenses, thus minimizing the amount of local currency I received as change. Credit cards were only reliably accepted in main tourist establishments.

Technology Electricity and running water were available in all areas visited by tourists. Cell phone service and television were widely available.

Time GMT/UTC minus six hours (e.g. U.S. Central Time). Costa Rica does not observe Daylight Savings Time

Transportation With its rugged terrain, only about 20 percent of roads paved and virtually non-existent road signalization, driving in Costa Rica could be a challenge. It was easy to understand the popularity of local air carriers that provided daily service between the main tourist areas with small twin-propeller airplanes capable of accommodating up to 15 people and landing on short grass airstrips. During the green season roads got muddy and occasionally washed out, making four-wheel drive vehicles ubiquitous outside of San Jose.

How To Get There International flights arrived at the Juan Santamaria International Airport, located 14 miles west San Jose. There were daily non-stop flights between San Jose and the U.S. from Atlanta, Dallas, Houston and Miami, via American, Continental and Delta Airlines. There were also direct flights from major Central American cities via local airlines such as Groupo Taca, Copa Airlines, Avianca and Mexicana. Several European airlines also served San Jose, including Iberia, KLM and British Airways. The Daniel Oduber International Airport located near Liberia, 135 miles northwest of San Jose in the Guanacaste province, had recently started receiving international flights from American, Continental and Delta Airlines. That airport was closest to the Pacific northwest coast. At the time of this writing, citizens of the U.S., Canada and the E.C. were not required to have a visa to enter Costa Rica. They could visit with a valid passport only for up to 90 days. Departure tax was $26.

Because of the shortage of paved roads in Costa Rica, it was most convenient to travel between major tourism areas via internal airlines such as Nature Air and Sansa. Nature Air had the most extensive network and best on-time reputation at the time of my visit. However, it operated out of the Tobias Bolanos Airport, located between the international airport and San Jose. I was forewarned that road traffic into the city was unpredictable, and transit time could run from 20 to 60 minutes. By scheduling accordingly, and arranging with my final destination resort to have a reliable driver waiting for me, I experienced no issues with the transit.

Facilities Outside of San Jose, where all the amenities of city life could be found, basic necessities were available in smaller towns on a limited basis, as was first aid medical assistance.

Shopping And Souvenirs Costa Rican coffee, rum, some leather goods and wood carvings by local artisan could be found at reasonable prices in tourist areas.

Date Of Last Visit May 2006

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Would You Visit Again? Yes

Overall Impression The Lapa Rios Ecolodge has garnered so many awards and accolades in recent years that I approached it with high expectations; these were promptly exceeded! No words or trophies could have prepared me for the breathtaking reality of Lapa Rios. The site was spectacular. Perched high on the tip of Costa Rica’s remote Osa Peninsula, the resort discretely blended into a private nature preserve that spread over 1,000 pristine acres of one of the last remaining lowland tropical forests in Central America. The main lodge, built at the top of a 350-foot ridge, housed the reception area, restaurant and bar. From there, 16 private bungalows were strung through the lush tropical vegetation along a sloping 500-yard long path of steps and bridges that connect three ridges. Like the main lodge, all the bungalows were built exclusively of local materials, topped by high pitched roofs thickly thatched with Suiita palm and casually decorated with comfortable bamboo furniture. Each bungalow featured a private deck and patio, complete with outdoor shower, and a sumptuous view of the forest canopy rippling down to the gentle waters of the Golfo Dulce. Fifteen miles across the gulf, the rolling hills of the mainland fade in the distant haze.

My Lapa Rios experience was further enhanced by the obvious dedication of the staff to ensuring that I enjoyed every moment of my visit. The instant my small commuter plane landed in Puerto Jimenez, I was welcomed by friendly staff members. They immediately retrieved my luggage and whisked me off to an awaiting open four-wheel drive truck with padded benches and a stand up roof held up by sturdy roll bars, for the forty-five minute drive on the rocky dirt road to the resort. Before the truck even came to a stop under the lodge’s thatched awning, two staff members materialized with a welcoming chilled towel to wipe away the dust of the trip, and a tall glass of a tropical fruit juice blend that tasted like pure ambrosia. This same thoughtful attention to my comfort was unfailing throughout my visit.

But Lapa Rios was more than a haven of understated luxury and flawless service in an idyllic setting. It was also the heart of a major nature preservation and community development program that has become an international model of the responsible use of ecotourism. It was intensely satisfying for me to know that by staying at Lapa Rios, I was not only contributing to the preservation of one of the most biodiverse primary forest environments on the planet, but also to providing stable income and growth opportunities for the families of the 57 employees of the resort.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury wilderness lodge

General Management Lapa Rios has been managed since 1999 by Cayuga Sustainable Hospitality, a leading organization in the management and development of luxury ecotourism facilities in Latin America.

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location Lapa Rios was located at the southern-most point the Osa Peninsula, where the Golfo Dulce meets the Pacific Ocean, 250 miles southwest of San Jose, Costa Rica’s capital city and main international airport. The small town and landing strip of Puerto Jimenez were approximately 12 miles away from the resort.

On-Site Manager Jorge Arrieta

Owners John and Karen Lewis, two former Peace Corps volunteers from Minneapolis, Minnesota were the owners. They abandoned their professional careers (John was a lawyer and Karen a music teacher) in 1990 to dedicate all their resources and efforts to permanently protect from logging, poaching and uncontrolled development more than 1,000 acres of mainly primary forest with a unique biodiversity value. The Lapa Rios Ecolodge was built in 1993 to support the maintenance of the private reserve and provide sustainable economic development to the local community.

Size The ecolodge sat on a five-acre site tucked away within the 1,000-acre private nature preserve. Its 16 guest bungalows were scattered down a 500-yard path from the main lodge. The facility employed a full time staff of 57, all Costa Rican nationals, 52 of them from the local community.

Transportation From international destinations, Juan Santamaria International Airport in San Jose was the most common point of entry into the country. From there, two local airlines, NatureAir and Santa, offer convenient daily scheduled flights to Puerto Jimenez. My transfer to the resort was pre-arranged with Lapa Rios at the time of reservation. It was also possible to drive from San Jose. However, due to the difficult terrain and precarious road conditions, the trip usually takes between eight to ten hours. Once at Lapa Rios, transportation was available through the resort for any excursion beyond walking distance.

Year Open-Renovated Lapa Rios originally opened with 6 bungalows in 1993, and was gradually expended to its actual capacity of 16 bungalows. The latest major renovation occurred in 2004.

Lobby And Common Areas The main lodge housed the reception area, restaurant and bar. At the center of it, a hardwood circular stairway soared 50 feet up to a thatched-roofed observation gallery. Furnished with green-cushioned armchairs, this privileged vantage point offered a limitless view of the forest canopy and the ocean vistas beyond. It quickly became a favorite spot of mine for live “armchair bird-watching,” as chestnut-mandibled toucans and scarlet macaws were regular visitors in the tree-tops.

Bathroom The bathroom occupied approximately a quarter of the bungalow, running the length of the room along the exterior wall. A dividing wall separated it from the sleeping and seating area. Two washbasins were set on a slab of cristobal wood matching the bedroom floor. The bathroom floor was tiled. The inside shower featured a screened bay window and tiled window seat, and its own wonderful view of the forest and the gulf. An additional garden shower was tucked in a corner of the patio, surrounded by flowering plants.

Room My bungalow, number 6, was a leisurely five-minute walk from the main lodge. The airy 460-square-foot bedroom and bathroom suite was isolated from the path by stucco’ed walls. The internal walls, open on three sides onto the private deck and the forest, were screened to let in the cooling breezes and sweeping views. The two queen-sized beds were swathed in mosquito netting and separated by a bedside table. Furnishings included a writing desk and chair, and a seating area with two armchairs padded with brightly striped cushions and a corner end table, all made of local bamboo. Storage shelving completed the décor. The floor was of dark, highly polished cristobal wood. There was ample indirect lighting around the room, and two overhead fans to ensure comfortable air circulation, although the latter were not necessary during my stay. The private deck and patio included an outdoor shower, three lounge chairs, a rocking chair and a large white cotton hammock.

Restaurant All meals were served in the Briza Azul restaurant. It was the main focal point of the main lodge, with its soaring four-story high peaked roof and circular staircase to the observation deck. The wall separating the dining room from the reception area held a small display of antique local ceremonial masks . A tree-shaded deck on one side of the dinning room was a popular alternative dinning location during the day for those who preferred a view with their meal. The menu varied daily but always offered choices of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes. The servings were so generous that I quickly learned to take advantage of the “half portion” ordering option. The cuisine was an imaginative blend of international favorites with a local twist, every dish perfectly prepared and beautifully presented. The lime cucumber soup, a chilled clear broth flavored with cucumber and lime, a discrete allusion of chili and a garnish of baby shrimps, was my luncheon favorite. I was especially impressed by the consistently high quality of the food and service after I learned that Brizal Azul didn’t have a chef. The kitchen was staffed by local men who have made the courageous transition from traditional roles (cooking is still very much a woman’s task in Central America) to become educated in food preparation, and master skills, ingredients and tastes that go far beyond their cultural references.

Amenities Pump bottles of bio-degradable products for body and hair care were located by the sinks and in the shower area. A personal safe was built into the wall. Early morning coffee, tea or hot cocoa was delivered in thermoses at 6 am on a shelf outside the front door of the bungalow. This service was per request at the reception desk the previous evening. A refillable water bottle was provided for each guest upon arrival. Although the tap water was safe to drink, there were bottled water stations in the public areas for guests who preferred to refill their bottles there. There were two golf umbrellas in the room, with more umbrellas available in large stands in the main lodge. Walking sticks and jungle boots could be borrowed at the “Tours Hut” for guests to use on hikes.

Beach It was a fifteen minute steep walk down to the gulf. The sandy public beach was deserted and offered no facilities or amenities, but it was pleasant for walking or bathing in the surf, or watching pelicans dive for their lunch.

Facilities The swimming pool was located just down the path from the main lodge. The “Tours Hut” was nearby; it was the departure point for all tours and hikes. A yoga deck and massage room were in their own hut, another minute’s walk down the hill, discretely concealed in the dense foliage.

Pool The large, approximately 40 by 25 foot pool varied in depth from three to seven feet. It was an inviting place to swim, and it offered such a spectacular view of the Golfo Dulce that I was sometimes content to soak in it while admiring the panorama below. The pool was chlorine free, using only natural salts to keep it clean. Over a dozen metal lounge chairs circled the pool, several of them in a shaded area under a large thatched roof. Ample supplies of towels were stored in a bamboo cabinet.

Mammals Sighted howler monkey, spider monkey, coati mundi, three-toed sloth. Birds: brown pelican, great blue heron, cattle egret, green-black heron, bare-throated tiger-heron, black vulture, turkey vulture, common black hawk, roadside hawk, yellow-headed caracara, orange-chinned parakeet, red-loded parrot, scarlet macaw, smooth-billed ani, beryl-crowned hummingbird, chestnut-mandibled toucan, red-crowned woodpecker, lineated woodpecker, black-throated trogon, tawny-winged woodcreeper, black-crowned tityra, great kiskadee, social flycatcher, gray-capped flycatcher, streaked flycatcher, tropical kingbird, gray-breasted martin, blue-gray tanager.

Wildlife Viewing The area was teaming with wildlife. A simple stroll from my bungalow to the main lodge could mean an encounter with a three-toed sloth languidly stretching through the branches of a nearby cecropia tree, her baby clinging to her flank; or a large coati mundi unhurriedly crossing the path ahead. Birds were ever present. On an easy two-hour guided walk, I was able to sight over two dozen varieties.

Other A variety of excursions were available by prior reservation. They ranged from short morning and evening bird watching strolls to more physically demanding daylong or overnight rain forest hikes. There were small group tours (usually four to six participants) led by attentive, well informed guides. A number of surfing, fishing and other ocean-related activities could also be arranged through the resort. I most enjoyed my visit to the Carbonera School, a local community primary school that opened in 1993 as a result of the commitment the founders of Lapa Rios to foster primary education among local children. At the time of my visit, twelve pupils were enrolled, boys and girls ranging in age from seven to fifteen, all visibly hungry for learning. Their dynamic young teacher confirmed the attendance rate was 100 percent in spite of the fact that some of the pupils must walk up to one hour each way to get to school. In addition to basic education such a reading and writing, the curriculum aimed to include English, whenever a qualified teacher was available, and issues pertaining to the sustainability of the local environment.

The Sustainability Tour, a behind-the-scenes visit of the property, gave me a detailed insight of, and renewed appreciation for the uncompromising efforts that have earned Lapa Rios the prestigious “Five Leaves Sustainability Certification Award” (the highest recognition awarded by the Costa Rican Ministry of Tourism). This fascinating visit covered everything from bio-degradable building materials to laundry practices, and sorting of all kitchen leftovers (from the lodge and staff kitchens) to be either composted or sent to the pigpen. Approximately a dozen pigs were raised with these leftovers. The excrements produced by the pigs were hosed down into a hermetic tank where bacteria developed to produce methane gas, which was then piped to the staff kitchen where it fueled the gas stove used to prepare the 2,200 meals per month consumed by the employees. This process was implemented at the recommendation of one of the local employees, who had observed it in his village.

Both tours were free of charge and could be scheduled at the reception desk.

Therapeutic massage and Hatha Yoga lessons were available by appointment.

Recognition And Awards In addition to its Five Leaves Sustainability Certification from the Costa Rican Ministry of Tourism, received in 2003, Lapa Rios was a 2005 recipient of the U.S. State Department Corporate Excellence Award, a recognition awarded to U.S. companies operating overseas for their “exemplary employment practices, responsible environmental stewardship and practices, and contribution to the overall growth and development of the local economy.” Lapa Rios was also recognized as one of the five best ecolodges in the world by Conde Nast (Green Award 2005), and voted one of the ten best hotels and resorts in Mexico and Latin America by Conde Nast readers (Readers Choice Award 2005).

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review May 2006

ReviewersArticle and photographs by Josette King

Service Excellent. All guest-facing functions were handled by a team of local young men and women who were unfailingly prompt, cheerful and attentive to my comfort and requests. They understood and spoke English with varying proficiency, but all were visibly eager to learn.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression The outstanding natural surroundings of the Morgan’s Rock Hacienda and Ecolodge, combined with the luxury of its accommodations and the friendly service provided by its ever attentive staff, should earn the resort high rankings by any standards. However, what made Morgan’s Rock unique was the success of its creators in translating their commitment to nature conservation, reforestation and community development into a retreat of exceptional architectural and esthetic quality.

It was early afternoon by the time I arrived at Morgan’s Rock. The only thing warmer than the tropical sun overhead was the welcome from the staff. Standing in the open reception area, I got a first glance at the cerulean blue expanse of the infinity-edge pool just a few steps away. Beyond it, a clutter of lush vegetation stretched down to the edge of a crescent-shaped beach. The air was fragrant with tropical scents, and echoing with the dull beat of the surf. Although the cool, palm-thatched dining room beckoned, and lunch had been immediately suggested, it could wait. For now, I wanted to discover more of this seductive place. With scampering lizards leading the way, a staff member escorted me up terraced stairs to the awesome 360-foot long suspension bridge that straddled the steep, densely forested gorge separating the bungalows from the main hacienda. The bridge treated me to a canopy walk with a close-up look at birds and butterflies, and a sweeping view of the beach.

The fifteen guest bungalows were scattered in old-growth tropical forest, a few hundred feet above the surf, on a rolling hillside that curved to form the south end of the bay. Like everything else at Morgan’s Rock, the bungalows integrated unobtrusively into the surrounding nature. Only their thick locus wood doors set in high walls of white stone and their peaked thatched roofs were visible from the path. The fronts of the bungalows, built on stilts, reached out through the trees toward the ocean.

Equally as compelling as the view was the serene refinement of my bungalow’s interior. Constructed exclusively of local rare woods (all coming from certified, responsibly managed logging and recycling sources), the interior showcased the creativity of the architect, English expatriate Matthew Falkiner, and the skill of the local craftspeople in creating an environment of calm, understated beauty reminiscent of oriental retreats.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury eco-tourism lodge

Connectivity There was no cell phone reception anywhere on Morgan’s Rock. Telephone and dial-up internet access were available from an outlet near the reception area. A computer was available for guests who may have felt compelled to check their e-mail. It didn’t appear to be much in demand any time during my stay.

Handicapped Access No. Getting around Morgan’s Rock required extensive walking up and down terraced paths and stairs.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location Managua, with the only modern international airport in Nicaragua, was a three-hour drive northwest of Morgan’s Rock. The colonial city of Granada, one of the main tourist attractions in the country, was two hours away.

Road transportation to and from Managua or Granada, or any other destination, was easily arranged through the resort. Within Morgan’s Rock, the only way to get around was on foot. Excursions outside of the resort were arranged to include round trip transportation. A local airline, NatureAir, operated from Granada’s grass landing strip airport to other cities in Nicaragua and south to Costa Rica.

On-Site Manager Gladis Zapata.

Owners Morgan’s Rock Hacienda and Ecolodge was owned and operated by a French family, Clément and Claire Ponçon, and their sons Eric and Arnold. Ponçon, an agronomist, originally came to Nicaragua in 1974 on assignment from the French Government foreign assistance program. The family settled in Managua, and over time acquired several agricultural properties, focusing mainly on coffee and tree farming, including the working hacienda in Playa Octal that is now the site of Morgan’s Rock. The Ponçons credit the Lapa Rios Ecolodge, in Costa Rica, and its owners John and Karen Lewis, recognized pioneers in conservation and low-impact, sustainable development, for providing the inspiration behind Morgan’s Rock.

Size The property was nestled on approximately 25 acres, at the heart of a 4,500-acre full-scale conservation, tree-farming and reforestation project. Its 15 guest bungalows were scattered around a steep hillside, a five to ten-minute walk, over the suspension bridge and through the forest, from the main hacienda that housed the reception, restaurant, bar and pool.

The ecolodge employed a staff of 45, all Nicaraguan nationals, almost exclusively from the local community.

Year Open-Renovated Morgan’s Rock opened in October 2005

Lobby And Common Areas The hacienda housed all the common areas. Squared-off locus tree trunks, sanded to a satin sheen held up its multi-peaked roof. Half-walls of roughly textured white rock separated the various common areas, creating several inviting seating corners. Space flowed seamlessly from the lobby with its striking wall-size contemporary oil painting serving as a backdrop for the eight-foot long royal cedar and cochote wood reception desk, to the bar and the dinning room. Each area offered an unimpeded view of the surrounding tropical vegetation, and the Pacific Ocean beyond.

Bathroom The tiled bathroom ran the width of the room, ending in an oversized shower. The handsome double sink vanity featured sculpturally coiled plumbing. The water closet was discretely tucked away behind a half-wall topped with a large double towel rack. Six-foot-tall storage shelves of dark coyote wood completed the setting. The bathroom could be isolated from the bedroom by white cotton draperies. Solar panels kept the bathroom amply supplied with hot water. There was also an outdoor shower in a corner of the patio.

Room My bungalow, number 12, was the furthest from the lodge, a ten-minute walk to the very edge of the property. I was rewarded for the extra steps with a breathtaking circular view of the bay, the open ocean and Morgan’s Rock itself, the jagged promontory emerging from the Pacific surf that gave its name to the resort. Number 12, or Caoba (each bungalow was named after a local tree; mine was Mahogany) was a generously scaled 650-square-foot bedroom, sitting room and bathroom suite. With its wide private entrance patio and deck that ran the length of the room and extended a few feet beyond it into the trees toward the sea, it felt like a private world. The two walls facing the hill were of white rock. The two other sides were entirely screened-in, for a floor-to-ceiling view of the forest and the ocean.

The suite was on two levels, with the sleeping area on the main level. Set against a partition that separated it from the bathroom, the king size bed was flanked by two bedside tables. A large, bright bark painting of local animals was set in the partition above the headboard. A superbly crafted teak chest graced the far wall. There was ample indirect lighting around the room, and two overhead fans to ensure comfortable air circulation. All were powered by passive electricity from solar panels unobtrusively located just outside of the bungalow. The sitting area was two steps below the main part of the room, facing the sea. It included a king size sofa bed upholstered in cinnamon-colored canvas, a writing desk and chair. Large screened-in French doors opened onto the deck with its swinging queen size daybed comfortably padded in dark green canvas, hanging on thick ropes from its own thatched roof. It quickly became my favorite place to read, or to enjoy the pounding of the surf 300 feet below. I was occasionally visited there by a howler monkey that settled high in the trees to share the sunset with me.

Restaurant La Bastide (or Provencal country house) was a large, inviting space overlooking the swimming pool, with a view of the ocean that stretched to the horizon. Morgan’s Rock, a leader in Central America in promoting sound organic farming practices, produced approximately 70 percent of the food served at the hacienda. This included all the dairy products, eggs and chicken, which come from resort’s own dairy and poultry farm.

The food was wholesome and delicious. It was served on attractive contemporary French china, making each meal a pleasure for the eye as well as the palate. The menu consisted of simple, well prepared dishes that were an interesting fusion of local Latin American dishes and French specialties. As only freshly harvested ingredients were used, the daily specials were influenced by what was available from the farm and the ocean. I especially enjoyed a spicy Bouillabaisse-like fish stew, based on the local catch of the day, flavored with lime and cilantro, with a bite of chili. The Kahlua Flan, a generous wedge of velvety custard with a subtle coffee flavor, served on rich vanilla cream, instantly became my favorite dessert.

Amenities Pump bottles located by the sinks and in the shower area dispensed bio-degradable products for body and hair care. Early morning, coffee, tea or hot cocoa was delivered in thermoses left at 6 am on a shelf built into the upper part of my outside door. This service had to be pre-ordered at the bar the previous evening. Although the tap water was safe to drink, drinking water and ice station cabanas were situated at several intersections of the paths leading to the bungalows. A large beam flashlight was provided for each guest to supplement the lighting of the paths during the night hours.

Facilities In addition to the restaurant and bar overlooking the swimming pool, the main hacienda offered a number of inviting lounging areas. There was also a small library corner, with an eclectic, ever-changing collection, depending on what books guests either adopted or donated during their stay. A yoga deck and massage room were located high on a hill, a steep five-minute walk behind the hacienda.

Fitness Center The yoga deck and massage room were located high in the trees, a steep five minute walk behind the main lodge, facing the beach for a panoramic view of the bay and the soothing impression of nesting in the canopy. Massages were by appointments only, three days per week at the time of my visit. The only disappointment of my entire stay was self-inflicted. I waited too long to schedule a massage, and was unable to obtain an appointment on short notice. Next time, I will book it as I check in.

Pool The spectacular, over 60-foot long and up to 8-foot deep L-shaped swimming pool, contained several pre-existing boulders embedded in its sides. Some of them were just right to sit on, and linger in the water while watching the occasional bird stop by for a drink. The pool used no chlorine. It was kept clean with natural salts. A dozen large lounge chairs with thickly padded bright blue canvas cushions surrounded the pool area, half of them sheltered from the sun by a thatched roof. A few feet away, a walk-in closet held stacks of towels.

Beach The private beach was spectacular. A deserted mile-long stretch of fine tawny sand that curved gently between two rocky points, it was perfect for walking, bathing or body surfing in the warm, rolling surf. A dozen thatch-roofed shelters, each furnished with a large hammock and two padded lounge chairs, offered a restful place to contemplate the undulating infinity of the Pacific Ocean ahead. Beach towels were provided in the bungalows for guest to bring with them. There was a water and ice station about 100 feet away from the end of the path leading to the beach.

The beach of Morgan’s Rock was a protected nesting ground for giant leatherback sea turtles. They came to the beach to lay their eggs from August through January. Hotel staff guarded the nests to protect them from poachers. Guests who visited during the winter months could request to be awaken during the night, to watch the hatchling turtles flap their way down to the sea.

Other The dedication of the owners of Morgan’s Rock to preservation and restoration of the natural wildlife habitat has led to a major reforestation program on the property. Almost 2,000 acres of primary forest have been set aside for conservation. At the time off my visit, 100,000 hardwoods had already been planted. Visitors could participate in the reforestation effort during a three-hour tour that took them from the hacienda to the seed beds, where they selected a tree, then planted it, while learning about reforestation and planting techniques. A commemorative marker was placed near the tree with the name of its sponsor. This was a very popular activity with guests. One experience that I particularly enjoyed was the breakfast tour of the farm. Visitors took an active part in milking cows, gathering eggs, grinding corn, preparing tortillas and Gallo Pinto before sitting with the farm hands to a hardy traditional Nicaraguan breakfast.

A variety of nature tours within the reserve were led by the knowledgeable and enthusiastic resident guide, Juan Guido, for groups of up to four or six people. Other excursions could be arranged through the resort, ranging from horseback riding to sea kayaking and fishing. For those wishing to explore further afield, day trips were available to Granada, Lake Nicaragua, the Mombacho Volcano Nature Reserve and the Massaya Volcano National Park.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review May 2006

ReviewersArticle and photographs by Josette King

Service Excellent

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression A country rich in unspoiled natural beauty and friendly people, Nicaragua is still often overlooked by foreign visitors wary of its turbulent past. In fact, Nicaragua has been a peaceful democracy for well over a decade, and has now made the development of tourism a national priority. The country, the largest in Central America (50,000 square miles, slightly smaller than the State of New York), boasts the greatest expanse of primary rainforest north of the Amazon basin and the largest freshwater body in Central America, Lago de Nicaragua. With its abundant wildlife and spectacular scenery, Nicaragua has been thriving to capitalize on these natural assets to emulate its Costa Rican neighbor and become an eco-tourism haven. To this end, 84 nature preserves have been created, protecting more that seventeen percent of the country’s landmass.

While foreign visitors were still few and the tourism infrastructure somewhat sketchy, signs of rebirth were everywhere. Once neglected old colonial homes in residential city neighborhoods were being transformed into boutique hotels, and entire towns, such as Granada, were being restored to their colonial splendor. The southern Pacific area, with its stunning coastline of near-deserted sandy coves and rolling surf, seemed poised to emerge as a premier tourist destination.

Climate Average temperatures were in the mid-to-high eighties with fairly high humidity, as is typical in tropical regions. There are two seasons: dry (December through April) and green (May through November). Rainfall during my late-May visit consisted mainly of the occasional late-afternoon or night-time torrential downpour.

Cost Of Visiting Reasonable

Currency The local currency is the Nicaraguan Gold Cordoba (NIO). 1 NIO = 100 Centavos. At the time of my visit, $1 = 17 NIO.

Electrical Current 120 Volt

Health And Vaccinations There were no mandatory inoculations for travel to Nicaragua at the time of my visit. I followed the recommendation of the U.S. Center for Disease Control (CDC) and ascertained that my routine vaccination schedule was up to date prior to the trip. I also opted to take preventive anti-malarial medication. The need for insect repellent skin protection was minimal and usually limited to the evening hours. As always when traveling in Central America, unless otherwise indicated at a specific property, I used bottled water exclusively for drinking and oral hygiene.

How To Get There There were daily non-stop flights between Managua’s Augusto S. Sandino International Airport and the southern U.S. gateways of Atlanta, Dallas, Houston and Miami, via American, Continental and Delta Airlines. There were also direct flights from major Central American cities via local airlines such as Groupo Taca and Copa Airlines. U.S., Canadian and E.U. citizens were not required to have a visa to enter Nicaragua. I was issued a three-month tourist card on arrival; cost was $5. Departure tax was $25.

Location In the heart of Central America, Nicaragua is bordered by Honduras to the north and Costa Rica to the south, with coastlines on the Atlantic and Pacific oceans.

Measures Metric system

Money Issues Currency could be exchanged at the airport in Managua, in banks, and official foreign exchange offices in most major cities and tourist locations. ATMs were found in these same areas, and U.S. Dollars were readily accepted, as long as they were in good condition. Since change was tendered in Cordobas, I made sure to carry sufficient quantities of $1 $ 5 and $10 notes for incidental expenses. This kept to a minimum the amount of local currency I accumulated along the way. Credit cards were only reliably accepted in main tourist establishments.

Technology Electricity and running water were available in all areas visited by tourists, as was Internet connectivity. Cell phone service and television were widely available.

Time G.M.T minus six hours (e.g. U.S. Central Time)

Transportation With the exception of the Pan American Highway, a well maintained four-lane highway that traversed the country north to south, roads were in mediocre condition at best. Secondary roads were usually unpaved. Road signs were few. I was glad that I had pre-arranged my ground transportation with the hotels and resorts. They provided me with punctual, skilled drivers with comfortable four-wheel drive vehicles at reasonable prices. In addition to road transportation, a small local airline, NatureAir, used twin-propeller, eighteen-seater planes to ensure liaisons between Granada, Nicaragua, and various destinations in Costa Rica.

Facilities Infrastructure was limited outside of urban areas. Basic necessities were available in smaller towns on a limited basis, as was first aid medical assistance. Medical facilities were limited outside of Managua and Granada.

Shopping And Souvenirs I found little shopping of note, other than hammocks. Nicaraguan hammocks are reputed as the best made and most comfortable in all of Central America.

Tourism Highlights Isla de Ometepe, a 68,000-acre island in the middle of Lago Nicaragua, was reputed for its forest, wildlife and archeological sites. Ometepe, or “two hills” in the local Nahuatl language, accurately described the dumbbell-shaped island formed by two volcano (Concepción and Maderas, respectively 5,282 feet and 4,573 feet high), connected by a broad strip of land. The island was accessible via ferry from various cities around the lake.

Granada, the oldest and one of the grandest colonial cities in Central America was a popular destination. After suffering decades of neglect during the unrest of the 1970’s and 1980’s, plus a destructive earthquake in 2000, Granada was again a vibrant city in the midst of a full scale restoration effort to preserve its architectural treasures.

Morgan’s Rock Hacienda and Ecolodge, a newly opened luxury resort in a 4000 acre private nature preserve on the Pacific coast, a two-hour drive southwest of Granada, was already gaining recognition as an exceptional place to visit. Its mile-long crescent-shaped private beach was a protected nesting ground for the giant leatherback sea turtles.

Date Of Last Visit May 2006

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Would You Visit Again? Yes

Overall Impression The Reserva Comual Tamshiyacu-Tahuayo is a remote eight hundred thousand acre nature preserve tucked away deep in the jungle of Loreto, Peru’s largest state. Loreto is an area the size of Montana that lies almost entirely in the Western Amazonian rain forest. The Reserve is bordered to the West by the upper Tahuayo River and its tributary the Blanco River. This is a place where seasonally flooded verzea forests and non-flooding terra firme forests meet, making it one of the most biologically diverse environments in the world. It has been the site of several decades of scientific studies that have yielded some of the Amazon’s richest varieties of plans, birds and mammals as well as amphibians and reptiles. Additionally, the villages in the permanent settlement zone adjacent to the Reserve have been at the forefront of community-based management of the natural resources of the Reserve and surrounding areas for over a quarter of a century. This commitment has enabled them to succeed in preserving their traditional way of life as well as their environment. All of these considerations made the upper Tahuayo River a compelling choice of destination for our Amazon rainforest discovery adventure.

Cost Of Visiting Reasonable

Currency The currency of Peru is the Nuevo Sol. The Nuevo Sol symbol is “S.”

Electrical Current 220 Volts

Health And Vaccinations There were no mandatory inoculations for travel to Peru at the time of our visit. However we followed the U.S. Center for Disease Control (CDC) recommendations and ensured that our immunization schedule was up to date prior to our trip. We also opted to take preventive anti-malarial medication. For our daily protection from insects, we used a combination of repellent cream with CDC-recommended high DEET concentration on exposed skin, a DEET-free spray for facial protection, and we carried individually wrapped mosquito lotion towelettes for quick touch-ups if necessary. We experienced no insect bites, even during long hikes in the jungle or swampy areas. As the Tamshiyacu-Tahuayo Reserve area is only a few degrees south of the Equator, we used generous amounts of sunblock (30 SPF) . Lastly, we followed the usual precautions when traveling in Latin American to use only purified bottled water for drinking and oral hygiene.

Location The Tahuayo River meets the Amazon approximately 50 miles south of Iquitos.

Measures Metric system

Money Issues The Nuevo Sol had an exchange rate of approximately S 3.25 per U.S. dollar at the time of our visit. We found that dollars were readily accepted in areas that catered to tourists, at an exchange rate comparable to the official one. Change was provided in sols. We brought all the funds intended for incidentals, tips and souvenirs in small denominations (mainly $1, $5 and $10). This kept to a minimum the amount of local currency that we accumulated along the way. We also made sure that we obtained new or almost new bills from our bank before leaving on our trip as local merchants only accept U.S. bills in pristine condition.

Technology Running water was available. There were no electricity, TV, commercial radio, internet or telephone connections beyond the greater Iquitos area . Our lodge was equipped with a small generator used to recharge electronic equipment batteries. The lodge used a shortwave radio for their communications.

Time GMT/UTC -6 (e.g. U S Central Time)

Transportation The only way to get around the area of the Tahuayo River and the Tamshiyacu-Tahuayo Reserve is by either by small motorboat or wooden canoe, and on foot.

How To Get There The gateway to the Tahuayo River and indeed to most of the Peruvian Amazon is Iquitos, an island of riotous urbanity surrounded by rainforest and rivers for hundreds of miles in all directions. Located approximately 650 miles north of Lima, and almost 2000 miles upstream from the mouth of the Amazon, Iquitos has the distinction of being the largest city on the planet that is not accessible by road or rail. It can only be reached by plane or boat. The only efficient way we found to reach the area was to fly to Lima from the U.S., where most major airlines offered daily services from hub cities such as Atlanta, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami and New York. From Lima, several domestic carriers such as Lan Peru and TANS offered daily flights to Iquitos. Any destination beyond Iquitos had to be reached by boat. Most reputable jungle tour companies and lodges that cater to foreign tourists offered accompanied transfer service from the airport to final destination. From Iquitos, we traveled by motorboat upriver on the Amazon for 50 miles, then another 40 miles up the Tahuayo River to our final destination, the Tahuayo Lodge. The entire boat trip took five hours.

Facilities There were no shopping, dinning or healthcare facilities outside of Iquitos.

Shopping And Souvenirs The only souvenir shopping of note that we came across in the villages were handsome baskets woven by the local women from palm font fibers and colorful seeds. We also noticed decorative gourds and small woodcarvings.

Tourism Highlights The Tahuayo Lodge offered us the unique experience of a true bird’s eye view of the jungle. Their zipline canopy system, the longest in the Amazon, is located an easy 30-minute hike behind the lodge. We were strapped into a harness and hoisted one hundred feet above the ground to a platform secured to a large emergent tree. From there, we were able to soar further up, supported by a network of overhead stainless steel cables, to two more platforms anchored to giant old growth trees. We also especially enjoyed late afternoon canoe rides, to listen to the sound of the jungle as the animals emerged from their midday torpor. As the sun started to dip behind the trees, the riverbanks became alive with birds and butterflies. It was a perfect time of day for bird watching while silently floating on the latte-colored water of the Tahuayo.

Date Of Latest Visit August 2005

Reviewers Article and photos by Josette King

Would You Visit This Destination Again? Yes

Overall Impression One of the most extraordinary things about the Tahuayo Lodge was that this welcoming enclave of comfort should exist at all in the midst of the untamed wilderness of the Western Amazon. Perched high on a bank of the Tahuayo River, the lodge was a sprawling, thatched-roofed complex of large huts linked together by covered bridge-like walkways. Entirely built on stilts, it was distinguishable only by its size and layout from the tidy indigenous villages down river.

Although it was already mid-afternoon by the time our boat arrived, we were immediately ushered into the cheerful dinning hall where an appetizing buffet lunch appeared on short order. Amazonia Expeditions management personnel quickly welcomed us and gave us a brief orientation tour. Meanwhile, our luggage had materialized in our cabin before we were escorted to it. This same thoughtful, efficient attention to our well-being remained the norm for the duration of our stay.

Average Duration Of Visit Amazonia Expeditions recommends a seven-day minimum stay to take full advantage of the many activities available, and enjoy a rich jungle experience. We were at the Tahuayo Lodge for eight nights, and thoroughly enjoyed every moment of our stay.

Established The lodge was built in 1995. It has been in operation ever since and was the object of meticulous on-going maintenance and enhancements. A large research and education laboratory was added in 2000. The latest addition, a circular, 30-foot wide hammock room completed in 2003 was one of our favorite spots to relax and read.

Handicapped Access While the lodge was not configured for handicapped access, we were told that it has successfully accommodated motion and visually impaired guests who have visited as part of a larger group.

Length Of Stay Eight nights

Location The Tahuayo Lodge was located in the Peruvian state of Loreto, approximately 90 miles by motorboat south of Iquitos, the state capital. We first traveled 50 miles upstream on the Amazon before veering off into the Tahuayo River for another 40 miles. The entire trip usually takes between four and five hours depending on the time of year and the water level in the Tahuayo.

Manager Rolex Arevalo

Open All year

Owners Paul and Dolly Beaver

Size The 300-foot facade of the lodge included three spacious common areas connected by seven-foot wide covered walkways. The dinning hall was in the center, with the laboratory and the hammock room at both ends. Similar covered bridges led to the guest cabins and other facilities in the rear. The entire structure was 300 feet by 240 feet, built on stilts ranging from 10 feet to 20 feet in height to accommodate the rolling terrain below and raise the lodge safely over the water level during the rainy season. The architecture blended seamlessly into the 37 acres of jungle that constituted the property. Its boundaries melted into the endless thousands of acres of rainforest surrounding it.

There were 17 guest cabins, capable of accommodating up to 45 guests. Depending on the number of guests in residence, the staff headcount varied from 25 to 30.

Transportation Once at the Tahuayo Lodge, the only ways to get around were by small motorboat, native wooden canoe and on foot.

Description One of the remarkable strengths of Amazonia Expeditions was their complete flexibility in customizing our jungle experience to our requirements and interests. Our guide, Weninger Flores, displayed an encyclopedic knowledge of the flora and fauna of the rainforest, and an outstanding dedication to introducing us to it in the best possible conditions. His acute jungle sensitivity could spot an inch long poison-dart frog in the most camouflaged environment. He could also mimic many of the voices of the forest, from cuvier’s toucans and pygmy marmosets, and entice them to come for a closer look. Additionally, we valued the obvious commitment of the Amazonia Expeditions personnel to the preservation of the rainforest environment and the culture of the local ribereños communities that dotted the banks of the Tahuayo. This afforded us the opportunity to meet with local Shamans, learn basket weaving from native craftswomen, and to interact with the community at large in a mutually respectful and friendly way.

Common Areas The lodge was a rustic accommodation catering to the wilderness tourist. Its architecture was representative of the indigenous culture. It was built of local materials such as huacapu timber and irapay palm thatch. One notable difference between the Tahuayo Lodge and traditional local dwellings was that all the ceilings of the lodge and most of the partitions not required for privacy were made of mesh screening. The luxuriant jungle views that surrounded the buildings provided the décor.

Bathroom The lavatories and shower stalls were shared, co-ed facilities located near each cluster of cabins, in sufficient number that we never waited for their use. The furthest distance between any of the guest cabins and a bathroom facility was about 75 feet. Sinks were in the open air. At night, while the paths to the bathrooms were lit with oil lamps, it was necessary to use a flashlight inside the individual stalls. All bathroom facilities were kept scrupulously clean.

Room Our Cabin (# 11) was a corner unit in a cluster of eight cabins situated on either side of a large hallway at the rear of the property. The upper quarter of our cedar-paneled 130-square- foot room was screened in, as was the ceiling, to allow air circulation and to let in the sounds of the jungle. The furnishings consisted of two comfortable single beds with mosquito nets, a common bedside table between the two beds, a luggage stand, a small writing desk and two shelves with wooden pegs underneath to hang clothes. The mosquito nets were more a pleasing decorative element than a necessity, as the screening kept our room entirely bug-free

Meals All the meals served at the lodge were buffet style. Everything was prepared in the kitchen located a few steps behind the dinning hall, by a staff experienced in the sanitary handling of food. We enjoyed the simple, delicious meals that often included interesting local vegetables or fruits, such as shaved heart of palm salad or manioc chips. The lodge accommodated special dietary requirements by prior request.

Amenities There were large bath towels in the rooms. Jungle rubber boots were available for loan to guests. The lodge provided daily laundry service, a service extremely rare if not unique among jungle lodges.

Facilities There were no shopping, dinning or healthcare facilities on the Tahuayo River. All daily guest necessities were provided by the lodge. Supplies could be ordered from Iquitos via short wave radio and delivered by the next boat.

Souvenirs The Amazonia Expeditions T-shirt, with its distinctive hoatzin bird logo was available for sale at the lodge.

Bird Watching Birds were everywhere! The lodge was located in close proximity to the Tamshiyacu-Tahuayo Nature Reserve, home to more than 500 species of birds. Every waking moment was an occasion to view many of them. It was not unusual to be serenaded by a white-necked thrush or to admire the coral beak of a black-faced nunbird while washing our hands at an open-air sink. We fell asleep at night to a symphony where the two-note call of the striped cuckoo punctuated the complex echoing sound of the common potoo; or was it the great potoo? It was hard to tell, as we could intermittently hear both. Then there was the unmistakable call of the ladder-tailed nightjar, announcing the name of the river “too-why-yoo.” Within forty-eight hours, thanks to Weninger’s patient tutoring, we could identify a boat-billed flycatcher perched by the river as we went by, and enjoy being able to tell apart the several varieties of kingfishers that escorted our canoe on our late afternoon rides. We arrived as casual bird observers. The Tahuayo Lodge made birdwatchers out of us.

Wildlife Viewing Mammals we saw included brown-throated three-toed sloth, pygmy marmoset, saddleback tamarind, squirrel monkey, wooly monkey, kinkajou, collared peccary, pink river dolphin, grey river dolphin, white-lined sack-winged bat, and long-nosed bat. Reptiles included green anaconda, caiman, and great green iguana. Amphibians: cane toad, crested forest toad, duellman’s poison dart frog. Birds: ringed kingfisher, Amazon kingfisher, green kingfisher, capped heron, yellow-rumped cacique, slate-colored hawk, boat-billed flycatcher, black-faced nunbird, needle-billed hermit, scaly-breasted woodpecker, hooded tanager, scarlet macau, mealy parrot, black caracara, orange-winged parrot, festive parrot, greater ani, yellow-headed caracara, black-collared hawk, lesser kiskadee, great kiskadee, black-tailed ant bird, cuvier’s toucan, great egret, turkey vulture, pale-vented pigeon, great black hawk juvenile, great black hawk, white-winged swallow, cobalt-winged parakeet, crimson-crested woodpecker, smooth-billed ani, swallow-tailed kite, chestnut-eared aracari, chestnut-bellied seed-eater, russet-backed oropendola, clay-colored thrush, white-eared jacamar, tropical kingbird, undulated tinamou, yellow-billed tern, ruddy pigeon, and pied lapwing. Birds heard only: striped cuckoo, common potoo, great potoo, ladder-tailed nightjar and hoatzin bird.

Others There was no electricity anywhere on the property. Lighting was provided by numerous oil-lamps placed at nightfall along all the walkways and inside all the common areas. These lamps were not used in the bedrooms, shower or toilets as they could topple easily and cause fires. Guests were advised to bring their own flashlights. While our small high-intensity handheld flashlights were fully adequate, next time we will bring the headband-mounted version, such as was used by the guides and by experienced wilderness tourists, for hand-free after-dark reading and exploring. A small gas-powered generator was available to recharge camera batteries.

The Tahuayo Lodge used two types of water: river water for bathing and bottled water for drinking. The bathing water was pumped from the river into two large tanks where it was purified with chlorine and biodegradable cleansing agents. This treated water was used at room temperature in the showers and in the flush toilets, which relied on a sanitary septic system. In addition, the lodge transported its drinking water from Iquitos in ten-gallon bottles that were placed in dispensers in the kitchen, the dinning hall and by all the open-air sinks. This bottled water was used for cooking, drinking and personal hygiene.

The Tahuayo Lodge was rated “Most acclaimed lodge of Peru’s Northern Amazon” in the 2004 edition of the Guide to Peru (Moon Handbooks).

Check-In-Check-Out All necessary formalities were completed at the time of booking or when we were met in Iquitos. No formal check-in/check-out was required on-site.

Date Of Latest Visit August 2005

Reviewers © 2005 Simon and Baker, Inc.

Article by Josette King

Photographs by Josette King

Would You Stay Here Again? Yes