Overall Impression This trendy hotel, part of the large Sol Meliá chain, was located in a 37 story tower building. Its target audience were luxury oriented travelers, especially celebrities and those with a penchant for music, design and gourmet meals. It had a penthouse VIP lounge (a favorite) for Level upper floor guests, meeting space, two restaurants, nightclub, pool area, fitness center and spa. The name Me was designed to convey that Me equals you “because Me becomes you.”

My favorite feature at the Me Barcelona hotel was the panoramic view of the city and its environs from my seventeenth floor room. I liked the large and comfortable bed with a city view and bedside electronic light controls.

The Level Lounge on the top floor was my favorite area of the hotel. I enjoyed breakfast there and took advantage of the facilities and amenities whenever there was an opportunity to meet colleagues or just for a short while to enjoy the stunning city views. The hip and stylish hotel’s friendly and welcoming staff made it a safe haven to return to after a long day sightseeing in Barcelona and the Catalonia Region.

Children Yes

Class Of Accommodation Luxury Lifestyle Five Star hotel

Concierge Alfredo Martinez

Connectivity There was WiFi connectivity in my room. At times the service worked well and other times it was so sluggish as to be useless.

General Manager Enrique Escofet

Handicapped Access There were four rooms for disabled guests.

Length Of Stay Six nights

Location The hotel was in the Plobenou District, part of the 22” Area, an urban business district within walking distance of Barcelona Beach and the well known Avenida Diagonal. The hotel is between the Glories Plaza and the Forum area. The City Center was one subway stop away and Gothic Quarter was five subway stops away.

Managed Sol Melia

Owned Altavista Hotelera S.L.

Pets Allowed The hotel welcomed pets of up to 10 kilograms except in public food and beverage areas. Pets were required to be under control all times.

Size The 30,111 square meter property had 258 rooms, 37 floors and 150 staff.

Year Opened-Renovated The hotel was established August 2008.

Lobby And Common Areas The building’s architectural design was by Dominique Perrault, a French architect known for his work at the Bibliothèque Nationale de France building in Paris. The exterior was meant to be slim, reflecting the light and movement of the city during the day; and serve as a symbol of technology.

The interior of the 120 meter tall hotel was designed, by Corada Figueras Arquitectos, to be contemporary, hip, welcoming and unique. The street level entrance led to a reception area on the left and a lobby on the right. Colorful and comfortable furnishings populated the lobby which had high ceilings and a spacious ambiance. At the back of the room there was a bar. Behind it was Dos, one of two hotel restaurants (where we had a buffet breakfast one morning and dinner one night). From the lobby elevators, slow at times, led to guest floors, meeting rooms and common areas including fitness center, spa, nightclub and pool areas.

Bathroom To the left of the entrance there was a doorless rectangular bathroom area with a closet on one side adjacent to a large shower (they shared a door so when the closet was closed the shower was open and vice versa). There was white flooring and white and black lacquered walls. There was an electronic safe in the closet, a folded black bathrobe and matching black slippers. Across from the closet there was a small storage cubby hole in pale wood with a square mirror. Next to it there was a built-in beige Corian counter with twin sinks and above it the glass wall facing the bedroom, a vanity mirror and a movable mirror. In the left corner, next to the shower, there was a water closet. Inside the large shower space there were hand held and rain shower heads.

Room I stayed in Room 1707 on the seventeenth floor. The modern city facing room was 30 square meters in size. From my oversize window I had a view of a nearby city park (where there was a concert the Sunday afternoon I arrived) and a construction site for a tower next door, and the city in the background with the Sagrada Familia and Tibidau hill within view. The first feature I noticed in the room was its high gloss polymer white resin floor.

There was a fuchsia and orange, with blue and grey trim, area rug in the middle. Some walls were white and some were lacquered and there was a high ceiling. A king bed, framed by night table openings built into the wall, was in the center of the room. It had a fluffy mattress with a double duvet (under and above the sheets), making the bed particularly comfortable.

The bed faced a Sony flatscreen television and lounge chair in the corner and a floor to ceiling partial glass wall offering beautiful city views. A bright red lacquer rectangular long table with a glass top was set against the wall below a large blue photo. A silver minibar with items on sale took up the corner next to the table and the window. It had cold beverages inside and an assortment of snacks on top including canned olives, Love Me Tender (condom, lubricant, vibrating ring), nuts, chocolates, potato chips and crackers.

A brown wall with a large window in the middle divided the sleeping area from the bathroom, allowing me to see into the bathroom from the bedroom and vice versa. Just past the entrance door, to the right, there was a control stand for light switches and digital air temperature controls (the temperature controls didn’t seem to work regardless of the temperature I selected; I heard colleagues complain of a similar issue in their rooms). A similar stand for power cords was next to the mini bar.

The day I arrived loud sounds carried into my from from a concert at a nearby urban park. I could hear very loud sounds from the hallway. When staff were cleaning the neighboring rooms I could hear loudly the sounds of the vacuum cleaner, their movements and conversation.

There were light and curtain controls by the night table. The lights in the room were limited, making the light ambiance muted, especially at night. There was one bright light on the desk, one small lamp over the lounger and small reading lamps over the bed and headboard area.

There was an Extreme Mac iPod docking station on one of the night tables. I borrowed a loaner iPod charged with music from reception (had to provide a guarantee).

Food And Restaurants Whenever possible I preferred to have self service breakfast in the penthouse lounge. Although there were fewer choices than in the main dining room and no hot dishes, it was always quiet and the view in the early morning was breathtaking. Breakfast selections included four types of local deli meats, four types of cheese, three types of bread, several kinds of pastries, two types of cereal, two types and several flavors of yogurt, two flavors of juice, Nespresso coffee and a variety of teas (although boiling water was hard to come by in the top floor lounge). There was usually a sliced fruit platter usually with pineapple, watermelon, strawberries. In the main dining area, breakfast was buffet style and included the above offerings in larger quantities as well as hot dishes and eggs. Very busy staff brought hot beverages to the table.

The Torres brothers managed the two hotel restaurants. We dined at Dos, a ground level informal restaurant specializing in Mediterranean and Catalan homestyle cuisine with a modern touch.

Amenities There were 30 milliliter plastic bottles of Aveda rosemary conditioner, hydrating lotion and refreshing mint mouthwash by the sink. In the shower there were 30 milliliter plastic bottles of Aveda energizing body cleanser and rosemary mint shampoo. There were two phones, one in the bathroom and one on the night stand. There was a blowdryer and a vanity mirror in the bathroom. There was a Sony iPod doc in the bedroom. At turndown the staff brought heart shaped lollipops. One of the Level guest amenities was pressing service for three items on arrival and one per day after that.

Facilities Spa, pool, fitness center, business center, two restaurants (Dos and Dos Cielos), VIP lounge, nightclub (Angels & Kings), and meeting rooms.

Fitness Center And Spa The fitness center and YHI spa were next to each other on the fifth floor. The fitness room was 37.14 square meters large and housed seven Life Fitness machines. The spa was 363 square meters in size.

Pool The sixth floor swimming pool was 52 square meters in size and 1.5 meter deep. There were lounge chairs and cabana style seating in the pool deck.

Conference Facilities There were three floors exclusively dedicated to meeting rooms capable of varied configurations. Audiovisual equipment was available as well.

Other The Me line was launched by Sol Meliá (a large Spanish hotel chain with 300 properties in 27 countries) in 2006 to offer accommodations emphasizing design, music and gourmet features. The Me Barcelona hotel was the fourth hotel in the Me line following the launch of properties in Madrid and two in Mexico, one in Cancun and another in Cabo San Lucas. Plans were in place for additional Me properties in London in 2012 and Vienna in 2013.

As Level guests we were invited to take advantage of the facilities on The Level Lounge where breakfast and snacks were served and there was a superb view of the city. The Me Barcelona was named to the 2009 Conde Nast hot list.

Cleanliness Very good (my bath robe had an unpleasant odor and the shower floor was dirty or stained).

Date Of Review May 2011

Reviewers Article and Photos by Elena del Valle

Service The room was serviced twice daily; during the day it was cleaned and at night there was turndown service. There was a personalized welcome message in the bathroom mirror when I arrived. The service was at times friendly and helpful and other times hard to reach and inefficient. For example, I requested pressing service and found an ironing board and iron in my room on my return that night. On the other hand when I requested a loaner iPod a staff member arrived within five minutes of my call, installed the iPod very quickly, started it playing and left within minutes of arriving. The security guards (dressed casually) at the entrance (Omar and Harold) were unfailingly friendly and helpful.The couple of times I approached reception desk staff they were friendly and responded efficiently. The staff in the penthouse lounge including Roni, Chatni and Samara (most of the ones I met were interns) were also friendly and went out of their way to assist me. On more than one occasion I called reception and there was no answer.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression One of the major reasons I decided to travel to Barcelona this spring was the possibility of flying directly and non stop from Miami to Barcelona in Iberia’s newly inaugurated luxury service with fully horizontal seats. Not sure of what to expected at the sometimes overcrowded airport in South Florida’s largest city I arrived at the Iberia counter three hours early. Check-in was speedy and I was pleased to discover I had been assigned an aisle seat as I had requested.

As a Business Plus passenger I was able to make use of the fast lane at the security entrance to the concourse. Once those unpleasantries were behind me I took the elevator to the airport lounge shared by Iberia with American Airlines and its alliance partners. The lounge was a comfortable and mostly quiet place to spend time while awaiting the departure of my flight. Just a few steps away from my chosen seat near the lounge reception there was a snack and beverage self service area which was refreshed several times while I was in the lounge.

Boarding was easy. Soon I was settled in an aisle seat in the center and middle of the Business Plus cabin chatting with my neighbor, an affable elderly lady from the suburbs of Barcelona who had been visiting with her family in Miami for a couple of months. I liked that the cabin seemed spacious (other business cabins I flew in around the same time had 10 to 20 percent more seats in a similar size space) and I never had to wait for the restroom facilities which were clean and odor free. After the meal service I could avail myself of the on board entertainment or try to sleep. With the press of a button (one of several buttons on my control panel) my seat stretched out flat, allowing me to lay down horizontally with the pillow and blanket provided for the remaining hours.

On my return home, I waited with my travel companions for our flight’s departure time at the spacious Iberia Miro international airport lounge, stepping out for something to eat (the lounge only served beverages and finger food). The flight was blessedly uneventful and the staff polite. I managed to catch a few winks of sleep before we landed. All in all my weeklong trip to Barcelona went well. The comfort of Iberia’s Business Plus service played a major role in that trip’s success and would entice me back. The next time I plan a trip to Barcelona I will seriously consider flying Iberia Business Plus again.

About The Airline Iberia is Spain’s largest air transportation group, and following its merger with British Airways in January 2011, it is, according to promotional materials, Europe’s third-largest and the world’s sixth largest in terms of sales. Iberia strives to be a market leader on routes between Europe and Latin America. IAG is the holding company of British Airways and Iberia. It is a Spanish registered company with shares traded on the London and Spanish stock exchanges. The corporate head office for IAG is in London, United Kingdom.

Iberia, its franchise partner Iberia Regional/Air Nostrum, and British Airways operate 1,750 flights to 204 destinations in 121 countries on a daily basis. Iberia operates 1,000 flights to 116 destinations in 45 countries with 161 airplanes. British Airways and Iberia are members of the Oneworld Alliance.

Class Of Service Business Plus, Iberia’s long haul premium class. As of this writing it was available on Iberia’s A340/300 and A340/600 aircraft used on long haul routes to 21 destinations in Latin America, five cities in the United States, Johannesburg, some flights to Tel Aviv and some domestic flights to the Canary Islands. The same aircraft was expected to operate the new route between Madrid and Luanda, Angola scheduled to begin service September 30, 2011.

Flights This flight was launched on March 29, 2011 and plans were in place for it to operate all year.There were three non-stop weekly flights between Miami and Barcelona on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. On other days passengers flying from Miami could also fly to Barcelona via Madrid once a day with Iberia.

Length Of Flight The transatlantic flight to Barcelona was nine hours long and the return slightly longer at approximately 10 hours.

Owned-Managed Since January 2011 Iberia, together with British Airways, had been integrated into the International Airlines Group (IAG), one of the world’s largest airline groups with 408 aircraft, flights to 200 destinations and more than 55 million passengers annually.

Seats Business Plus passengers, according to an airline spokesperson, had 87 inches of personal space and 12 extra inches between rows. The seat size was 190 by 66 centimeters and the seat width was 20 inches. The seats, which converted into a horizontal position, featured a folding armrest, an adjustable headrest and an extendible leg rest operated from a control panel located on the armrest. The passenger’s preferred position could be recorded in the seat (I only found out about this after the fights). The business cabin had been designed with an eye on privacy. The seat’s rigid exterior shell was designed to provide passengers additional private space and the seats included a privacy separator panel. Iberia executives had plans for a new design for the Business Plus cabins for 2012.

Services For Handicapped Iberia welcomed “passengers with reduced mobility (PRM), those passengers whose mobility is restricted by a physical disability (sensorial or locomotor), a deterioration of their intellectual faculties, age or any other type of handicap when using a means of transport, and whose situation requires special attention and the adaptation of the services placed at the disposal of all passengers to their needs.

Aware that due to their special personal conditions, passengers with reduced mobility require extra, specific, individualized attention and taking into account Spanish and international on board safety and rescue regulations requirements for the safe transport and comfort of such passengers and others on board Iberia offered those passengers: Accessibility to the aircraft, adaptation of the airline’s equipment and procedures, specific, ongoing staff training.”

Aircraft We flew on the new non-stop service between Miami and Barcelona on an Airbus A340/300 with 36 Business Plus seats and 218 Tourist Class seats. The airline had 19 Airbus aircraft in its fleet. The biggest plane in the Iberia fleet, the Airbus A340/600 with 42 Business Plus seats and 300 Economy seats could also be used on that route.

The average age of Iberia’s A340/300 fleet at the time of this writing was 12 years old. Iberia ordered eight Airbus A330 planes and signed options for an additional eight planes of this type to start updating its fleet. In late 2009, the Business Plus cabin of Iberia’s whole long haul fleet of 36 aircraft was completely remodeled and refurbished. A row of seats was removed to offer passengers more comfort: 2.20 meters of personal space and 1.88 meters of seat pitch. Between June 2010 and September 2010, Iberia changed the Business Plus linen, toiletry bag, pillows and covers.

Business Plus Cabin There were 36 seats in the Business Plus cabin (24 in our nose section) which had a medium red decorative theme and a configuration of two seats by each window and two seats in the middle for a total of six seats in each row. The 97 square meter large Business Plus cabin had 61 square meters of seating area and 36 square meters of service area including three toilets, (3 square meters), galleys (9 square meters), a self-service bar (1 square meter) and storage area (4 square meters). The distance between seats was 74 inches or 1.88 meters.

Bathrooms The Airbus 340 had three one square meter size (same size as economy) bathrooms for Business Plus passengers.

Meals For its most recent Business Plus class dining updates Iberia hired Paco Roncero, Dani García, Ramón Freixa and Toño Pérez, four gourmet Spanish chefs to design the Business Plus catering service. On offer during my flight were for Starters: Hot bread and extra-virgin olive oil, Potato and leek cold cream soup with crispy onion (from a box, a favorite), or Escarole salad with prawns and Romesco sauce; Mains: Roasted lamb shoulder and its juice with red wine and cinnamon sautéed peaches with parsley, Cod back with green sauce and vegetables sautéed and cuttle-fish noodles, or Spinach, meat and pine nuts lasagna with Bechamel sauce; Desserts: Spanish cheese plate with grapes, Mató cheese and honey pudding with berry sauce, or Cherry sherbert. The menu (in English and Spanish) also listed Bar Service, Expresso Coffee and Last Minute Breakfast (on flights of nine hours or longer) options.

The wines recommended by the Todovino Club sommelier for that month, and described in detail in a booklet with space for passenger tasting notes, were a dry and medium bodied 2009 Blau D.O. Montsant red and two whites, a light and dry 2010 Labores de Unzu D.O. Rueda and a dry full bodied 2009 Alejarién D.O. La Mancha. There were also two 2006 reds on offer as well as one cava sparkling wine, three appetizer wines, two dessert wines and selection of spirits including Absolut Vodka, two brandies, three whiskies (12 year blends), rum (Flor de Caña 12 year old and Bacardi Carta Blanca), and two gins (Bombay Sapphire and Fifty Pounds).

Only Spanish wines, chosen to complement the Business Plus menus based on Mediterranean cuisine, were on offer. The wine list, updated every three months, featured three red wines, two whites, three appetizers, two sweet wines, one sparkling wine cava and two Spanish brandy wines. Inside the wine list, there was a Wine of the Month recommendation, a selection made for Iberia Business Plus by TodoVino wine club and Custodio L. Zamarra, a National Gastronomy prize winner and Sommelier of Zalacaín restaurant. Each month a different wine was presented, representing the different styles, production methods and wine regions of Spain. Interested passengers were able to taste the wines (at the crew’s suggestion I sampled several of the wines) and take notes.

Airport Lounges Business Plus passengers had access to VIP lounges. Iberia, American Airlines and British Airways managed jointly a lounge at the airport in Miami, open on March 1, 2011 as part of a Joint Business Agreement on the routes over the North Atlantic. It had spacious seating capability, meeting and quiet rooms and a bar. A self service light snack section was refreshed regularly. At the Barcelona airport, Business Plus passengers had access to the Miro Lounge. The Miro lounge was new looking and spacious. It was divided into several adjoining areas: a game room with a billiard table, a quiet area for those wishing to lay down, a bar area with individual dining tables and chairs and a sitting area with a view of the airport. There were three computers with internet access for guest use, a self service bar and snack buffet with potato chips, olives and other finger food.

Amenities In addition to menus and informational magazines there was a blanket, a pillow, and a red and brown zippered toiletry bag on my seat. The toiletry bag contained brown socks, sleeping mask, lip balm, toothbrush and toothpaste, eau de cologne, earplugs, hair comb and brush in one, hair elastic band, shoehorn, brown shoe bag, moisturizing cream, face cleansing towel and an information leaflet about the products. There were some local and Spanish newspapers and magazines available on request from the cabin crew. There was a set of noise canceling headphones for use during the flight.

Also included on board were meals, snacks, alcoholic drinks including fine wines, sparkling wine and after dinner drinks. Ground amenities included access to the airport lounges which offered complimentary snacks, soft drinks and shower stalls.

Entertainment Each seat had a dedicated 10.4 inch popup touch screen to manage an on demand audio and video entertainment system with 26 video channels (12 current movies, seven TV series, seven documentaries, main screen channel, route map channel, channel with information about boarding gates during approach to the destination and another channel with ongoing information about the aircraft), 15 audio channels and eight video games.

From the touch screen, passengers could send and receive short SMS messages and e-mails (for a fee). Business Plus seats had an individual telephone (for a fee), a connection for PCs, ambient night light and assorted compartments. The seat also featured a massage function. An entertainment program magazine was available at iberia.com

Ground Service Iberia Business Plus class passengers could take advantage of dedicated check-in counters and priority boarding lines in those airports that offered that service.

Business Plus passengers holding a full fare ticket booked on intercontinental flights operated by Iberia could book a complimentary limousine service with a luxury car and chauffeur for transfers from their home or hotel to the airport or vice versa. The service was available in Madrid, Barcelona, Santiago de Chile, Buenos Aires, Mexico City and Sao Paulo.

Business Plus passengers holding a full fare return ticket from Madrid and Barcelona airports for a flight operated by Iberia could use the complimentary pick up, parking and delivery service for private vehicles at Madrid and Barcelona airports.

Luggage The check-in luggage allowance was three pieces of up to 23 kilograms each.

Other The Business Plus class service was recognized with the Wines on the Wing 2010 by Global Traveler. The aircraft we flew on was the Concha Espina, named for a Spanish writer who died in 1955. Most of the Airbus A340/300 had been named in honor of important Spanish individuals.

Route Miami to Barcelona and Barcelona to Miami non stop

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review May 2011

On Board Service Of the eight flight attendants on long haul flights on the A340/300, three flight attendants were assigned to the Business Plus cabin on Miami to Barcelona and Barcelona to Miami routes. Iberia flight attendants were trained according to international regulations. They also received customer service and specialized service training for new and modified services. The most recent flight attendant training had been in relation to the new menus in Business Plus class service.

Reviewers Article and Photos by Elena del Valle

Would You Fly With Them Again? Yes

Overall Impression This striking music hall, built between 1905 and 1908 as the headquarters of the Orfeó Català, a nonprofit organization dedicated to the promotion of Catalan culture, had more than a century of history when I first attended a sold out concert there on a cool spring evening during a week long visit to Barcelona. It was love at first sight.

With seating for 2,100 the Palau, the only Modernist UNESCO World Heritage Building (since 1997), was intimate yet large enough to be self sustaining as a concert venue. It offered a serious reverence for the music it hosted within a warm, playful and art filled setting. The diverse cross section of visitors and concert goers I saw that day was evidence of its broad appeal.

Three hundred concerts were held at the Palau annually and nearly 200,000 curious people toured its facilities during the day. In addition to attending an evening concert, I indulged my curiosity with a daytime tour. I was rewarded for my efforts with the opportunity to explore the theater’s main hall somewhat at my leisure (compared to the limitations existent during a full concert hall). The tour and concert experience confirmed my first impression: that the theater was a special place even within a city that seemed enamored with art and architectural design. The next time I am in Barcelona I plan to attend another concert at the Palau de la Música Catalana.

Children Yes, children were welcome

Established The Palau was built between 1905 and 1908 under the supervision of Luís Domenech i Montaner, an architect, with funding from private donations. In 2004, the most recent renovation took place. At that time the Petit Palau, Plaza del Palau and Restaurante El Mirador were added.

Handicapped Access The Palau welcomed attendees with handicaps. Handicapped access was via C/ Palau de la Música, 4-6. The staff recommended that handicapped visitors contact the venue in advance at + 34 902 442 882.

Location The concert hall is in Ciutat Vella, the city’s historic quarter.

Owned-Managed The Palau de la Música Catalana was owned by Orfeó Català, a one hundred year old nonprofit association dedicated to the promotion of Catalan culture, especially music and in particular choral music. Beginning in February 2011 the general manager of the Palau was Joan Oller.

Size The 14,749 square meter property housed a ten story structure, seven stories above ground and three basement levels. It had seating for 2,146 people in the main hall and 538 in the Petit Palau. One hundred twenty staff worked at the Palau.

Transportation A taxi was the best way to reach the theater. Public transportation options included buses and the subway. It was possible to take bus lines 17, 19, 40 and 45 and metro lines I and IV stopping at the Urquinaona Station.

Description The Palau Plaza, an open area immediately in front of the entrance to the theater, was elegant in its simplicity. It was established between 1983 and 2004, the object of renovations and improvements by Oscar Tusquets, an architect, that restored the original structure and showcased the 1906 facade with the clever addition of glass walls in front of the building.

The rectangular building, equal in height and width, was set around a semicircular stage and characterized by a fantasy ode to nature decorative style. Inside the main hall a glance upward revealed a striking stained glass skylight in the form of an inverted dome featuring a sun and forty women’s faces. The other side of the main hall adjacent to the main facade was dedicated to Luís Millet, founder of the Orfeó Catalá. The two story tall area, thought simple by comparison to the main section, stood out thanks to its large stained glass windows with floral motifs. Through the windows it was possible to see the 14 columns, each with distinctive floral decorations, of the building facade.

The skylight, ceramic mosaics and large side windows filled the room with light. Noteworthy were eccentric lamps, columns with floral motifs, music themed sculptures, the work of Dídac Masana and Pau Gargallo, and music muses set atop red mosaic, the work of Eusebi Arnau and Lluís Bru respectively. The entrance foyer housed a cafe and bar and highlighted open brickwork, ceramic accents on the ceiling and the original design by Domenech i Montaner.

Food And Restaurant The El Mirador restaurant was just outside the main entrance and there was a cafe in the lobby; both owned by the Palau.

Tours The Palau offered daily tours of the main hall and occasional tours of other areas.

Concert The concert I attended was with the Deutsche Kammerphillarmonie from Bremen, Germany led by Josep Pons and with Frank Peters Zimmermann as the lead violinist. The two part concert which began at 8:30 p.m. was superb. It consisted of Part I: Nocturn de Tres epigrames per a orquestra by Benet Casablancas (1956) and Concert per a violí I orquesta, en Re major, op. 61 by Ludwig van Beethoven (1770-1827); and Part II: Simfonia núm. 8, en Sol major, op 88 by Antonin Dvorak (1841-1904).

Month And Date Of Visit May 2011

Reviewers Article and Photos by Elena del Valle

Would You Visit This Attraction Again Yes

Overall Impression When I first heard the name Via Veneto I thought of the famous shopping street in Rome, Italy and wondered what kind of cuisine the restaurant served. Soon I discovered the restaurant offered a contemporary interpretation of Catalan dishes within a nostalgic setting designed during the Italian Dolce Vita era.

About The Executive Chef Born in Terrassa Carles Tejedor worked in California, at the Hotel Savoy in London, and the Restaurant Ristol de Terrassa before joining Via Veneto.

He strived to showcase and be an ambassador of the New Catalan Cuisine. In preparing his dishes he relied on fresh local ingredients, strong flavors and modern cooking techniques. His approach was to cook with fresh seasonal products purchased daily from local markets such as the La Boqueria and Barcelona markets and the Palamós fish market. His emphasis was on “the great forgotten traditional dishes” of Catalan cuisine served side by side with innovative dishes, light sauces, natural flavours and beautiful presentations.

Most recently he attended the 2009 The Art of New Spanish Cuisine in Tokyo and the conferences of the Culinary Institute of America in 2008.

About The Head Sommelier Born in Barcelona in 1974, Jose Martínez González received his wine expert degree following two years of studies at Escuela de Restauración y Hosteleria de Barcelona where he was the top student in his class. Since he joined Via Veneto in 1999 he continued his education by attending worships and seminars. According to his biography, he regularly visits the major wine regions of the world to stay abreast of the latest innovations and trends. He is a member of Impitoyable, the oldest wine tasting association in Barcelona and has been a contributor to Periódico de Cataluña , Descubrir Cuina , and Club de Chefs .

Chef De Cuisine Jaume Monje, cousin of the restaurant’s owner.

Executive Chef Carles Tejedor

Handicapped Access The restaurant welcomed handicapped guests. The bathrooms were in the basement.

Head Sommelier Jose Martínez González

Location In the Sarrià San Gervasio area of Barcelona near the Turó Park Gardens.

Opened-Renovated The restaurant first opened in 1967. According to a spokesperson, the restaurant undergoes a soft renovation annually.

Pastry Chef Rafael Delgado Salvador

Restaurant Manager As a young man Pedro Monje was an intern at the kitchens of Pierre Orsi in Lyon, France and La Pyramide in Vienne, France. In 2001, he joined Via Veneto as manager. After attending the Asociación Española de Sumillería he became a sommelier. In 2009, he was recognized as professional of the year by the Academia Catalana de Gastronomía (Catalan Academy of Gastronomy).

Size The 1,000 square meter restaurant had capacity for 50 guests in the main room and 100 in the private rooms and employed a staff of 50 including a kitchen staff of 20. Service in the dining room was led by two managers, a sommelier and fourteen waiters. Additional staff included administrative personnel, doorman, wardrobe personnel, cellar staff and mechanics.

Type Of Restaurant The restaurant served local Catalan and Spanish dishes made with local products.

Owned And Managed Josep Monje and Pedro Monje

Josep Monje i Canut was born in 1943 in Pobellà, a small village in the La Vall Fosca area of the Lleida Pyrenees. The son of a farmer he left for Barcelona at the age of 14 where he worked as an apprentice in kitchens and restaurant dining rooms. Over the years he worked at Restaurant Mediterrani, Ritz Hotel, Hotel Avenida Palace, Restaurant Milan and Restaurant Reno. On April 19, 1967, he was hired as a waiter at Via Veneto, the same day the restaurant was opened. By 1969, he was the restaurant director and room maître. Over the next nine years he bought stocks of Via Veneto until 1978 when the became the sole owner of the restaurant.

His wife Blanca has been working with him since 1978 and is in charge of the administrative and accounting tasks of the restaurant, as well as the table flower decorations.

Their son, Pedro Monje i San, born in Barcelona in 1973, went on to work in the family business as managing director after receiving a graduate degree in Business Administration and Management and working in the marketing department of Nabisco.

DÉCor-Ambiance Fine dining was the order of the day at this restaurant. Tables were close enough to feel cozy and far apart to permit discreet conversations. Crisp linen napkins were refreshed anytime I stepped away from the table. The restaurant had Belle Epoque decoration with a beige, putty and red color theme. The floor was covered with a flower patterned carpet and the table cloths were pink, adding a touch of warmth to the somber ambiance. Decorative touches included plants, oil paintings and artwork from local painters, eye windows, silver candelabra and wine bottle holders, silver silverware, Villeroy & Boch dinnerware, and fresh flowers. The restaurant catered to business groups and private functions. In addition to the main dining room there were three private dining rooms Pink, Blue and Golden.

Cellars Wine And Alcoholic Beverage Selection Via Veneto housed a notable two-story underground wine cellar with 15,000 bottles and 1,000 different wines. Specialities included a collection of more than 30 different years of Vega Sicilia Único and one of the best collections of Burgundy and Bordeaux in Barcelona.

Meal Our seven-course Tasting Menu with wine pairings included a touch of showmanship as our duck dish was prepared table side. It began with a glass of Cava, Spanish sparkling wine. There were a handful of pre-appetizers for each of us: asparagus with cheese gel, scallop in a cone, salmon and salmon egg, Pilota Catalana which was a pig and veal combination usually served in a soup, and sea urchin croquette. Next there was a bite of pork neck and mushroom with grissini, light with subtle flavors. I especially liked the crunchy grissini. The restaurant had its own pastry chef who prepared breads and desserts. There were four types of bread to accompany our meal, olive croissant, whole grain, white and nut breads. The olive oil was from La Broella Arbosana.

Our first course was Dim Sum (Chinese ravioli) of red prawns from Palamos with tuna and seaweed dashi broth paired with Cava Sumarroca Brut Nature Gran Reserva 2006 from Sumarroca. The next courses were: Sauteed “Ceps” mushrooms served with Cava Celia Brut Nature Gran Reserva 2003 Rosado from Cavas Ferret; Taglioni with eggs from Calaf cooked at low temperature with preserved black truffle (least favorite) served with White Wine D.O. Rias Baixas Zarate Albariño 2009 from E. Pomares Zarate e Hijos; Oven-browned supreme of hake from Celeiros (trawl line) with Catalan region beans and crispy vegetables Via Veneto style (a favorite) served with White Wine D.O. Penedès Pardas Xarel.lo 08 from Celler Pardas; and a lovely pressed Roasted duck a la presse (a favorite) served with Red Wine D.O. Bierzo El Castro de Valtuille 07 from Bodegas y Viñedos Castro Ventosa. Our dining companion who turned down the duck was served baby goat. Before dessert we enjoyed an Assortment of Catalan cheeses served with Jerez D.O. Xerez Amontillado Tradicion 20 Años from Bodegas Tradición. It had a dry amber color, fruity nose and dry palate. The cheeses were followed by tiny strawberries, supple and delicious, and a raspberry coulis.

Dessert was a symphony of contrasting flavors. There was a chocolate sheet with cream filling, Chocolate and hazenut fritters with cocoa veil and Thai coconut ice cream served with Sweet Wine D.O. Yecla Dulce Monastrell 04 from Bodegas Castaño followed by coffee and petit fours.

Special Menus The menu was changed once or twice every season and the Sampling Menu changed daily. A five course Black Truffle Menu with truffles from Graus near Huesca in the Pyrenees Mountains was available between January and March; there was a six-course Historic Menu for 125 euros; and from October to December the restaurant offered an Italian White Truffle Menu.

Other The bathroom was spotless and overseen by an attendant. At the time of our visit the restaurant had one Michelin Star. Famous figures who had dined at the restaurant included Salvador Dali, the King of Spain, Gabriel Garcia Márquez, Vargas Llosa and Richard Nixon. The Catalan Academy of Gastronomy held working lunch events and other celebrations in the Private Rooms of the restaurant.

Date Of Review May 2011

Number Of Visits One

Reviewers Article and Photos by Elena del Valle

Service The staff I observed came across as experienced professionals with years of work and the authority of those who know what they are doing and do it with pride. They were attentive, service oriented and friendly yet never under foot, allowing us time to enjoy our dishes and share our thoughts at leisure in between courses. They were happy to make recommendations and answer questions in English and even share anecdotes. One waiter shared that he had grown up in the same town as Salvador Dali, the famed painter. Dietary restrictions seemed to be accommodated with ease. When one of our dining companions declined the duck as it was being brought to the table, the staff immediately prepared a replacement dish and served it within minutes so that she was able to enjoy her course while we were still eating the duck. The replacement of the dish was seamless and gracious.

Would You Dine Eat There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression As a lover of fine foods and wines including bubbly, one of my favorite libations, I was excited to visit Wines and Cavas Eudald Massana Noya, a Spanish wine and cava estate within easy driving distance from Barcelona during a weeklong visit to that northern city. We arrived in the middle of the afternoon on a sunny spring day. After welcoming our group warmly Eudald Massana Noya, the owner, and Ester Tous Font, his wife, walked us out to the vineyards where, with the help of an English language interpreter, he told us, in Catalan (the language of the region) about the vineyards, winery and the property’s organic and biodynamic farming practices.

From the vineyard he, his wife and his staff showed us around indoors through the cellars and production area, sharing information about the wines and cava they produced and bottled on the estate. The visit was reminiscent to the many tours I have enjoyed in France’s Champagne region.

At the end, we were rewarded with an inviting table setting of wine and sparkling wine glasses, wine and cava bottles and plentiful Josep M. Mitjans, a regional producer of pork, duck and deli products, platters. I enjoyed the tasting of wine, cava and deli products and brought home a couple of bottles of the Familia brut cava which I plan to enjoy soon with a light seafood dish or deli appetizers. They will be worthy reminders of my pleasurable visit to Catalonia, the region in northeast Spain, bordering on France and the Mediterranean, that is home to Barcelona and the Penedès region where the estate is located.

Average Duration Of Visit Our group of 20 spent about 90 minutes visiting a small area of the vineyard and cellars and tasting a handful of the wines and deli products.

Children Families with children and children with adult supervision were welcome and invited to become familiar with the culture of wine.

Established The Massana Family had owned and farmed the land since the seventeenth century. In 1993, Eudald Massana Noya, part of the ninth generation of his family, established a commercial venture and winery in his name.

Handicapped Access According to a spokesperson, most spaces open to the public were accessible to individuals with reduced mobility.

Location In the Penedès region 10 kilometers from Vilafranca and 30 kilometers south of Barcelona.

Number Of Employees There were seven employees.

Owned-Managed Eudald Massana Noya was the owner, manager and vintner.

Size The 30 hectare estate housed a small store, vineyards and cellars, all of which were open to guided tours and special events.

Transportation The estate could be reached by car. From Barcelona the exit on the highway was Sant Sadurní de Noya. The vineyard was past the town of Lavern.

Description The owners of the estate believe that “the earth, the breeze, the sun and the clean Mediterranean air make Subirats a unique place to grow vines.” Like their ancestors, Eudald Massana Noya is the ninth generation of wine producers to closely work with the land in Sant Pau d’Ordal in Subirats. They follow, the owner explained, biodynamic and organic farming methods to ensure sound ecological practices. The property was a member of the Catalan Council of Agrarian Production Ecological CCPA (Council of Catalan Ecological Agrarian Producers.)

Food Although there was no restaurant on site there was a variety of cold cuts from Josep Mitjans, a local vendor.

Souvenir Shop A small shop sold house wines, cavas, regional organic and artisanal products like olive oil, quince, and honey.

Tours The estate offered guided tours of the vineyards and cellars as well as tasting options.

Other In addition to the tours, the property offered, on request, a beginners wine and cava appreciation program, a carriage ride, a tour of the vineyards followed by meal at a nearby restaurant and a bicycle visit. The grape varieties, all organically grown, on the estate were macabeu, xarello, parellada, moscat, chardonnay, hardonnay, cabernet, savignon, merlot, tempranillo, and petit verdot.

Month And Date Of Visit May 2011

Reviewers Article and Photos by Elena del Valle

Would You Visit This Attraction Again? Yes

Overall Impression We drove to Figueras from Barcelona with the express purpose of visiting the famous museum, home of the largest Dali collection in the world. It was time well spent. After parking on a nearby street we walked a couple of blocks bypassing the main entrance straight to the Jewels Gallery which had a dedicated ingress.

Once my eyes adjusted to the muted lighting of the dark exhibit area I realized I was in a rectangular room lined with display cases on both sides. Each case housed remarkable jewelry, made with precious and semi precious stones; some of the items even had a moving mechanism. Some where so large or so elaborate it became apparent the artist intended them to be for display on non human surfaces such as the display cases where they were housed. The artist’s out-of-the-box thinking for jewelry in this case was that as a form of art it could be admired without ever being worn.

The rest of the museum was more of what I had anticipated. There were paintings, sculptures, found objects and even a car on display. The exhibit space, built and designed by the artist as a home for his art and that of his private collection (including works by Marcel Duchamp, Paco Rabanne, Christian Dior, Modest Urgell, El Greco), was spacious, with high ceilings and skylights and visitor friendly. The building itself is considered by some as the largest surrealist object in the world.

Sunlight drifted through the ceiling filling many of the rooms with light and shadow, creating a natural display area in places. While there were people in every room we visited there was always enough space to admire the art. Time raced while we explored at our leisure. In the end, we had to hurry when the staff announced closing time was upon us, stopping on our way out to take a last look at a couple of salient exhibits. Should I be in the area again, I would be pleased to return.

Average Duration Of Visit Two or three hours

Children Yes, the organization offered a variety of programs for children of varying ages.

Established In 1974, Salvador Dalí established the Dalí Theatre-Museum over the ruins of an old theatre from 1850. In 1983, he created the foundation.

Handicapped Access The first, second an third floors were only accessible by stairs. The Jewels Gallery entrance was on the ground floor and had an elevator. The entrance to the Jewels Gallery, through a revolving door, was so unexpectedly dark that for a moment I was disoriented. One of our group members requested a less intimidating entrance and was rewarded with access via another door with regular lighting.

Location In the Plaça Gala Dalí in the center of the city, 140 kilometers from Barcelona.

Number Of Employees There were 100 employees between the various Dali facilities including La Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí, Centro de Estudios, Restauración, Teatro-Museo Dalí de Figueres, the Salvador Dalí home in Portlligat and the Castillo Gala Dalí de Púbol.

Owned-Managed The museum was owned by a non-profit private cultural foundation under the direction of a board of trustees with twenty-one members, nine of them representing public administrations. Antoni Pitxot was the director of the Dalí Theatre-Museum.

Transportation From Barcelona it was possible to drive, take a train or bus to reach Figueres. For those wishing to fly to the museum the nearest airports were in Girona, 50 kilometers away, and Perpignan, 40 kilometers north.

Size There were 4,000 items in the Foundation collection. The Dalí Theatre-Museum in Figueres exhibited 1,500 of them including oil paintings from the artist’s early years until the last year Dalí painted, 1983, as well as drawings, graphic work, sculptures and installations. The Jewels Gallery in Figueres was home to 39 jewels and 24 designs. The second largest collection of his art is at the Salvador Dalí Museum in Saint Petersburg, Florida.

Souvenir Shop There were guides, books and Dalí merchandise and his works, licensed by the Foundation on t-shirts, magnets, cups, and posters.

Tours With advance notice tours were available in Catalan, Spanish, French, English, Russian, German and Italian.

Month And Date Of Visit May 2011

Reviewers Article and Photos by Elena del Valle

Would You Visit This Attraction Again Yes

Overall Impression Neichel was filled with soft sunlight in the early afternoon when we arrived following a 30-minute drive from our waterfront hotel. The décor was contemporary with woods and Spanish style touches. There were bottles and condiment containers crowding the serving stations, reminding us that this was a working restaurant with a strong emphasis on the pleasures of the palate.

For some reason I had expected a boisterous ambiance, filled with laughter and loud conversation. This was not the case. Inside we forgot our cares and relaxed while perusing the menu in the company of aperitifs and tasty bite size morsels. At first we felt like a drop of water in a still pond. Slowly we heard the buzz of conversation hovering, like invisible insects, near each dining table; even large groups kept conversations private. Time seemed still inside Neichel. Serving staff smiled softly and answered questions readily, although they were quite busy.

Neichel was run formally, with an experienced and knowledgeable hand. An air of reverence for fine food was in the air. It had the intimacy and warmth of a family business. One of the charming things about Neichel was the willingness staff showed to take care of whatever was necessary regardless of their dining room rank. If artfully prepared exquisite dishes were the centerpiece of the restaurant, it was the chef and his staff that brought it to life and made our visit feel special.

Chef Neichel, a Frenchman by birth and a Spaniard by adoption, is one of those rare people who has found his calling and radiates joy for his work. A leader in his field he could be haughty; instead he was unassuming and welcoming. He seemed more like a favorite uncle – who happened to be a culinary whiz.

Neichel offered delicious gourmet dining in a cozy ambiance with considerate and attentive service. If we lived in Barcelona we would be regulars.

About The Executive Chef Jean Louis Neichel was born in 1948 in Strasbourg, the capital of Alsace in France. His experience prior to establishing his namesake restaurant was vast including jobs at a number of well known gourmet restaurants.

He worked at the hotel restaurant Ville de Nancy in Ribeauvillé and the bistro Rocher du Sapin in Strasbourg; at the Michelin three-star rated restaurants of Alain Chapel in Mionnay, George Blanc in Vonnas, and Michel Lorain in Joigny in France. He headed the kitchen and managed the restaurant at the famous El Bullí restaurant in the outskirts of Barcelona. In 1981 he hung the Neichel shingle with the help of his wife and three years later received two Michelin stars.

In addition to his culinary talents, Chef Neichel loves to paint. Some of his artwork appears on plates and dishes. A reproduction of one of his watercolors, an olive tree branch, graced the 2005 menu. He and his wife Evelyn Fuertes have four children.

About The Sommelier Xavier Petrirena attended the school of hotel management and catering of Barcelona and graduated from the perfection course for sommeliers, C.R.D.O. in Navarra, Spain. He is a member of the jury for wine tasting of the magazine Category and a member of the Catalan Association of Sommeliers.

Chef De Cuisine Carlos Fernandez

Executive Chef Jean Luis Neichel

Handicapped Access Except for a few stairs near the restaurant entrance, the restaurant seemed to allow for easy mobility. The entrance hallway was wide.

Head Sommelier Xavier Petrirena was the head wine steward assisted by second sommelier José Antonio Antón

Location In Pedralbes, a residential area of Barcelona

Managed Evelyn Neichel

Opened-Renovated Established in 1981

Owned Jean Luis and Evelyn Neichel

Pastry Chef Mario Neichel

Size Neichel was able to accommodate 60, 45 guests in the dining room with additional seating in an adjacent private area. There were ten kitchen staff and eight at the front of the house.

Type Of Restaurant Gourmet Mediterranean with a strong vanguard influence

DÉCor-Ambiance The principal dining area looked onto a garden and was flooded with natural light at midday. There was an adjacent bar, ideal for an aperitif or after dinner coffee. The décor was elegant and comfortable with artistic touches and a modern flair. The interior design was the work of Espinet y Ubach from Barcelona; the furniture was by Miquel Espinet. María Girona painted the flowers on the ceiling. There were also paintings by Vilagrasa, Art Nouveau works and a 1960 Petrus Magnum. Other standouts included Riedel Austrian glassware, personalized Villeroy Bosch dinnerware and Cruz de Malta and Ribeiro cutlery.

Cellars Wine And Alcoholic Beverage Selection The wine cellar, supervised by Petrirena, considered by some to be one of the most demanding and vanguard sommeliers in Spain, was notable. There were about 450 references in stock, including 350 Spanish and 50 French wines. There were also wines from California, Chile and Italy.

The following stood out: Gran Crus d’Alsace: Leon Beyer, Selection Grano Noble; Romanée Conti Reserve 88; La Tache 85; Collection L’Ermita. D.O.Priorato. Years 93, 95, 96; Chateaux d’Yquen 83; Chateaux Petrus 66; Pingus 95; Prior Terrae; Artadi, and Vega Sicilia.

There was a collection of Armagnac brandies (distilled in the Gers region of France), some of which dated from 1888. The list of spirits, brandies, coffees and infusions was noteworthy, as well as a collection of cigars.

Special Menus Prestige Tasting (75 euros) and Flavors and Aromas menus (59 euros) were available.

Meal Our Tasting Menu began with Raventos i Blanc Brut Nature (our choice) and tapitas (small tapas): Crema de tapinambour y cep, Tejas de garbanzos, Chips de yuca, Caracoles de puntas, and Crujiente de apio y flor de calabacín (a tempura style favorite). Next, we had Terrina de foie ampurdanés, chutney de kumkat, carpaccio de pato, and ahumado en casgavante ; ensalada de gambas de Rosas, tartar de bogavante, vinagreta de albahaca y naranja and arroz negro Catalán con calamares. Setas de otoño con espardenyes (cohombros) de Palamós en brocheta, Merluza de Palangre con salsa de trufas, cuscus mediterráneo, and Cordero “churra” de Castilla-León cocido lentamente y lacado a la miel en el horno, higos caramelizados .

Spanish and French cheeses served with tomato compote and nuts concluded the salty protion of the meal ( Degustación de quesos españoles y franceses con compota de tomate, nueces y membrillo ). Dessert was followed by coffee and and an herbal infusión which was made with real dried herbs; and petits fours including erizos de chocolate y granos de café, aceitunas confitadas al romero, tejas de especias, de almendras, panellets, trufas de cacao amargo, chocolatinas y otras gourmandises Neichel.

Other For twenty-two years Neichel has held on to the coveted two Michelin stars. The restaurant also rated highly in many gourmet guidebooks such as the Gaultmillau European guide, the Gourmand guide of Catalonia, and the Gourmetour guide of Spain. Since 1990 it has been the only Relais Gourmand (of the Relais & Chateaux) in Barcelona.

Neichel offered valet parking and small dogs were welcome.

Date Of Review October 2005

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service There was an unhurried pace at the restaurant. Servers kept an eye on our table and allowed us space to chat and savor our dishes. We lacked for nothing.

Would You Dine There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression Our week-long trip aboard the SeaDream II was reminiscent of the by-gone days of classic ship travel where passengers had an opportunity to meet each other while sharing time and space with fellow travelers and crew members. In an era fraught with time constraints our “cruise” aboard SeaDream II provided us the luxury of meeting like minded people while enjoying a leisurely and luxurious voyage along the coast from Italy to Spain in the prime of the area’s tourist season.

We thoroughly enjoyed the pluses the sailing offered such as a limited number of passengers (there were 108 of us) and high crew to passenger ratio (there were 96 crew members). From the beginning, we were impressed with the personalized service and staff member’s ability to recognize passengers by name. Even by these high standards, food service and dining room staff, under the vigilant supervision of chief steward Christophe Cornu, stood out for their professionalism and extraordinary service. His staff were efficient, attentive, knowledgeable about the meals, and frequently remembered guest preferences. Meals were served at set times and were prepared to order. Dishes looked appetizing, were well prepared and arrived hot when they were supposed to. We especially liked that meals were a la carte (only breakfast included a buffet portion) after which we always felt satisfied without being overfull. Our hat is off to the chef and pastry chef for feeding us well and frequently in a moving vessel where supplies and last minute changes of schedule must present challenges land based chefs rarely encounter.

We found many attractive features aboard the recently refurbished ship, formerly part of the Seabourn fleet. Service and gratuities, meals, snacks, room service orders, wines, champagne and most drinks were included. There were plenty of poolside and top deck comfortable lounge chairs though sometimes it was too windy and cold for us to enjoy them; complimentary activities such as yoga classes, walks with activities led by staff members at some ports, a brief visit to the bridge, karaoke singing, use of books, magazines, board games, a small selection of DVDs and CDs from the ship’s library, swimming in the pool, Jacuzzi, working out in the fitness area (with a marvelous view of the water), water sports on one occasion, evening movies in the Main Salon, live music (guitar and piano) and an impromptu Flamenco performance which we much enjoyed. We took advantage of some of the additional options requiring supplementary fees such as shore excursions (available at every port we visited), Segway rentals, spa treatments, Internet surfing, and fine dining shore side (SeaDream II staff assisted us with selection and reservations at an enchanting gourmet restaurant).

The weather cooperated only part of the time during our trip. Strong winds and choppy waters made plenty of passengers seasick one day and threatened to at least once more. In response, the captain shared updates over the loudspeaker and assured us he would lead us to calmer waters as soon as possible. Sea sickness pills were readily available and the crew responded quickly and effectively to the situation by switching routing and ports. Although this caused the cancellation of visits to popular ports such as Portofino, the crew adjusted the itinerary and provided desirable alternatives including an unscheduled excursion opportunity to Lucca or Florence and a delightful daylong stop in legendary Saint Tropez.

We were amazed at how many of our fellow passengers had traveled aboard the SeaDream or SeaDream II on past occasions, some of them several times. They greeted and were greeted by staff members who recognized them from previous trips; and several of them booked 2006 sailings before the conclusion of our voyage. Almost all of the travelers, mainly couples and family groups, we spoke with, seemed to have enjoyed the SeaDream II experience. As the week progressed we understood their preference for the cozy yachting oriented options SeaDream II offered. It’s difficult for a trip to be flawless or offer everything a traveler wants. It was impressive to find a classy company which excelled and succeeded a majority of the time. We have already recommended SeaDream II to friends and are considering repeat visits ourselves.

About The Crew Ours was diverse with crew members from nearly 20 countries including England, France, Holland, Hungary, Norway, and the Philippines. Some like the captain had many years of sailing experience, others stood out in their chosen vocation such as the capable Dutch chef and pastry chef.

Built The SeaDream II was built in 1984 and refurbished in 2003

Description A week long (Saturday to Saturday) cruise aboard a refurbished cruise ship with a limited number of passengers. Emphasis was on personalized service, well prepared meals and a quality experience for adults; there were few if any activities for children and the ambiance was adult oriented. All meals (at set times) and snacks in between meals were included as were most on board activities. Most drinks including wines with meals, cocktails and champagne were included except for premium varieties which were available for a reasonable supplement. On shore, passengers were usually on their own to relax, meander about on foot, hire a car or sign up for a third party shore excursion made available through the ship at an additional cost (usually starting at $100 and up per person and exclusive to SeaDream II passengers). Dress was casual although some guests enjoyed dressing up in evening gowns and tuxes for dinner for their own pleasure.

Duration Seven nights (arrival was on a Saturday afternoon between 2 and 5) and departure was the following Saturday morning between 7 and 10 a.m.).

Executive Crew Captain Erik Lund Anderssen SeaDream II master, chef de cuisine Robert van Rijsbergen, sommelier Ferenc Kis, chief steward Christophe Cornu

Handicapped Access Limited. There was an elevator which many of the elderly passengers with ambulatory challenges made use of. The gangway stairs to board the ship required some care to negotiate for anybody with physical impediments. We observed a number of passengers anxious when boarding the tenders, especially when the water was choppy.

Internet Connectivity There was access to the Internet from staterooms and from the yacht’s Library ($5 for the first 10 minutes and $3 for each additional 10-minute period). The charge was $35 for 24 hours of unlimited access. Laptops were available at no charge. We connected using our laptop. Setting it up was as easy as setting up in a hotel room; the communications officer came to our room to set it up within five minutes of our request. The connection was via satellite and speedy although we had some difficulties on one occasion with outgoing emails due to a spam block.   

Location In the Mediterranean Sea sailing from Rome, Italy to Barcelona, Spain  

Managed SeaDream Yachts, Inc.

Owned Atle Brynestad

Sailing Route Original program: Civitavecchia (Rome), Sorrento, Porto Ercole, Portofino, Monte Carlo, Port Vendres, Barcelona. Revised program due to weather conditions: Civitavecchia (Rome), Sorrento, Saint Estefano, Livornio, Monte Carlo, Saint Tropez and Barcelona.

Size The yacht could accommodate a maximum of 100 passengers in 54 staterooms and had a crew of 92.

Common Areas The ship boasted comfortable contemporary casual décor. There was cloth furniture in the downstairs dining rooms, wicker and cushions in the outdoor top decks, various kinds of lounge and deck chairs poolside and on the top outdoor decks. One of our favorite spots to relax were the large elevated double and single cushioned areas near the rear of the ship. In spite of the loud noise, it was a relaxing place to spend a few minutes in between meals or lounge on when feeling lazy.  

The Vessel The SeaDream II has a gross tonnage of 4260. It is 344 feet long and has a 47 foot beam. Its maximum speed is 14 knots. It had a Bahamian registry.

Cabins And Heads Our cabin or stateroom (#401) was 195 square feet in size. Immediately next to the entrance there was a small closet with two hanging sections (one above the other). The other side of the closet housed the bathrobes and allowed us to hang full length items. The third and smallest section of the closet had shelves.

Beyond the closet there was a sitting area with a built-in cloth settee in a blue gray checkered pattern, two lamps and art work on the wall. Under it, we found life vests in one drawer and extra storage space in the second drawer. An elongated wood table faced the settee.  Across from the settee there was a wood built-in desk/entertainment/entertainment area with remote controlled flat screen 15 “ Sharp TV, Toshiba DVD player and Sony CD player. There were glasses in another shelf. A Zodiac Freedcom 1 phone was located on the desk immediately under the light switches and single 110 v. electrical outlet in the cabin. There was also an ice bucket and services folder on the desk.  There were three drawers in the lower part of the desk. To the right there was an electronic safe, quarter size refrigerator and storage area.

The sitting and sleeping areas were divided by an off white cloth curtain. Beyond the curtain, we found two twin beds adjacent to each other and positioned against a wooden headboard. A small painting hung above the bed; a night table with a lamp was on either side of the beds. A large mirror occupied the top half of the bed facing wall. A shelf the length of the sleeping area lay below the mirror. It included a small stool that allowed the area to function as a vanity. There were plants on either side of the shelf along with a magnifying make-up mirror. There was a large two-sided porthole beyond the bed that looked directly outside.

Except for minor inconveniences (we could clearly hear the music and piano bar noises at night and people talking in the hallway adjacent to our cabin. There was a slight musty odor in the room when we arrived) the cabin was very comfortable and a convenient place to spend time when we felt like being indoors. Except for certain plumbing sounds in the head, we never heard any sounds from neighboring cabins.

The head (bathroom), though small, offered everything we needed. There was a flushing toilet, sink, two small shelves next to the large mirror and a glass enclosed full size shower with three shower heads and a circular temperature dial.  The floor and walls were covered in beige marble. There were tissues from a receptacle near the sink, toiletries on the shelves and a cotton and cotton swab container.

Meals-Restaurants Meals were served at set times as follows: breakfast from 8 to 10 a.m., lunch from 12 to 2 p.m. and dinner from 8 to 10 p.m. Outside of those times it was possible to order snacks from a set weeklong menu in our cabin or on the upper decks during the day. Breakfast consisted of a buffet of cereals (in small boxes), yogurt, fresh and canned fruit, cheeses, cold cuts (one or more of the following smoked salmon, salami, ham or turkey), an ample selection of bread and pastries, butter, jam, and juices including some squeezed on board. We also had the option, which we took advantage of several times, of ordering hot dishes and daily specials a la carte.

Lunch options varied daily. We missed lunch on a number of occasions in order to visit exciting ports and attractions. On those days, we ate shore side or had a snack when we returned to the ship.  Room service was fast. One afternoon we were peckish and ordered a club sandwich. Ten minutes later someone was knocking on our door with the sandwich! Hors d’oeuvres and aperitifs were served nightly an hour before dinner in the Salon. We especially enjoyed the caviar and seafood medley serving. There were also sushi, Mediterranean or other themed options.

Dinner was the main meal of the day in terms of pomp and fanfare. Everyone supped in the main dining room on Deck 2, where tables were attractively set with silver, china and crystal ware. There were several choices from the a la carte menu including vegetarian options and Oriental Wellness Cuisine. There was always fresh bread and an assortment of European cheeses to choose from as well as a red and white wine option of the sommelier’s daily selection. He also made recommendations of optional wines available for a supplementary fee.

Some of the dishes we tried were Cream of Celery flavored with Nutmeg, Consommé, Sautéed Sea Scallops with Pumpkin Risotto and Parmesan Shavings, Grilled Veal Saltimbocca with Fresh Sage Leaves Herb Linguini and Marsala Sauce, Fresh Yellow fin Tuna with Haricot Verts, Green Asparagus, Mashed Potato and Veal Stock Reduction, Carpaccio of Beef Tenderloin with Roquette Lettuce and Parmesan Shavings, Cream of Forest Mushrooms with White Truffle Oil, Escargots “Bourguignon,” Grilled Lobster Tail with Green Asparagus, Red Bell Pepper, Garlic Creamed Pomme Purée, Cream of Roma Tomato with Fresh Basil, Whole Roast Prime Ribeye Beef with Pont Neuf Potatoes, Compote of Root Vegetables and Burgundy Sauce,  Smoked Salmon Tartar on Cauliflower Salad and Caviar Crème, Puff Pastry with Tomato and Melted Goat Cheese, French Style Onion Soup with Cheese Crouton, Grilled Swordfish Steak on Artichoke a la Barigoule, Boiled Potatoes and Mediterranean Topping, Duck a l’Orange on Braised White Cabbage with Cumin, Pommes Willaim and Grand Marnier Infused Demi Glace. One night the chef prepared an eight-course tasting menu: Mousse of White Asparagus with Marinated Lobster; Homemade Terrine of Foie Gras with Fig Compote and Toasted Butter Brioche; Cream of Pumpkin with Tarragon and Prawns; Fresh Fillet of Seabass “al Forno” on Brandade de Morue ; Braised Scallions and red Beet Dressing; Lime Sorbet with Limoncello di Sorrento; Honey and Five Spice Roasted Saddle of Veal with Caramelized Belgian Endives, Fondant Potato; Poached Rhubarb with Strawberry Flan and Vanilla Ice Cream.

Amenities Bulgari Green Tea toiletries including shower cap, shampoo, conditioner, soap, bath and shower gel, and body lotion. Cotton bathrobes and his and hers oriental style pajamas. Drinks in a smaller cabin refrigerator. Meals, champagne, house wines liquor (except premium brands) and room service. Every night when we returned from dinner there was information on the following day’s activities, information on our next land excursions, the U.S.A. Times summary, a daily amenity such as: two white chocolate dipped strawberries, a long stemmed red rose, a sachet of lavender potpourri, a nautical map, a bucket with a half a bottle of champagne. There was a specially made (and delicious) birthday cake one night.

Leisure Activities Available Shore excursions, golf simulator, Caviar and Champagne Splash, sunbathing on the Balinese Sun Beds, reading (there was a small library on the yacht), shopping (during the day-long stops in European ports and at the yacht’s boutique). One day during our week-long yachting adventure the water sports were made available at the Water Sports Marina though the weather was overcast and much too cold for us to enjoy. A favorite activity was dining (indoor, outdoor and 24-hour room service). The spa ladies spoke little English but were pleasant and helpful. We enjoyed the small sauna and a shower stall that doubled as a steam room (required advance reservations) and a relaxing “deep” massage. One afternoon we tried the new Segway Human Transporter, an 85 lb motorized vehicle that moves in response to the driver’s body motion, in the area next to the ship which was the only place it was allowed. The 10-minute ride was a lot of fun!

Other The Company was founded in September of 2001 by Norwegian entrepreneur Atle Brynestad who founded Seabourn Cruise Line and Larry Pimentel, who was president of Seabourn under Brynestad and later president and CEO of the merged company Cunard-Seabourn. Pimentel is now chairman and chief executive officer of SeaDream and a co-owner. The two friends, Brynestad and Pimentel, brought into SeaDream a small group of management colleagues and shipboard officers and staff.   

Smoking was possible only outdoors.

Cleanliness Very good. We spotted staff cleaning the ship all the time; they scrubbed the decks, polished the bronze fixtures, vacuumed and scoured. The only annoyance was the pesky stowaway flies we seemed to have picked in Rome. They found their way to just about every area on board, including the evening dining room and our cabin. By the end of the trip, they had disappeared.

Date Of Review October 2005

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Service There was twice daily made service and change of towels. The service aboard the SeaDream II was attentive with attention to details. Even within that high standard, service staff in the dining rooms were exceptional. They knew us on site from our first encounter. Christophe, the chief steward, was in charge of food services and handled service issues with military efficiency and gentlemanly politeness. Joram, from Holland, remembered our preferences, made dining recommendations and seemed to anticipate our wants even before we did. Servers Laurent and Sylvester were attentive and kind. Melanie looked after our cabin. It was always well made although by midweek we had only seen here once. She filled our request (air spray to eliminate a slightly musty odor and a thicker duvet as the cabin was chilly) with speed. Christine, the assistant activities director, always had a ready smile and was eager to help as were Verena and Chela at reception.

Would You Take This Voyage Again?  Yes

Overall Impression From the outside the Hotel Arts Barcelona looked like another office building with a distinctive metal sculpture in the front. It had a tall rectangular shape and external white metal structures revealed little about its contents. Inside, we rode an elevator from the ground floor to the lobby, where we began to discover the property’s upscale ambiance. Beautiful flowers, scattered in the lobby and common areas, brightened the earth tones of the hotel’s interior. As soon as we exited the elevator we found the reception desk to the left of the sunlit lobby, decorated in sober tones. Having been evicted from our comfortable yachting digs first thing that morning, we migrated wearily to the striking Hotel Arts, relying on the Ritz Carlton reputation for a warm welcome in spite of the early hour. At the reception, Diego greeted us kindly and promised to find us a room as soon as he could.

We left our luggage with the hotel staff and kept only essentials like our photographic equipment while we waited for Diego’s summons. For a short while we walked around the hotel, visiting the swimming pool and lobby level gardens, the spa (we had to be escorted), gift shop and fitness center. A couple of hours later found us in the lobby when Diego emerged to announce he had a room ready on the 29^th floor. Eager to discover Barcelona and change in time for lunch we dashed upstairs. We were delighted with the spacious and newly decorated room. Our favorite feature was its engaging view of the city, enhanced by the room’s port facing location and windows designed to take maximum advantage of the view. Once our luggage was found (one of the bags was missing when the luggage arrived) by the diligent bell hop, we were able to relax and enjoy the many creature comforts of the room.

We enjoyed our stay at the Hotel Arts. We especially appreciated the hi-tech, modern and comfortable room with high speed Internet access, the luxury oriented touches throughout, the stylish decor, the gourmet shop on the ground floor, the staff’s respectful attitude, and marvelous views of the city from many vantage points.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury hotel

Connectivity There was high speed Internet access in the room (the connection was next to the desk) for 20 euros a day plus 16 percent in taxes.

General Manager Victor Clavell Estrada

Handicapped Access Four Deluxe guests rooms were especially designed to meet the special needs of disabled guests.

Head Concierge Miquel Montes

Length Of Stay One night

Location Near the beach, a short drive from La Rambla and the port

Managed The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company

Owned Deutsche Bank and several Spanish investors

Pets Allowed Small pets were allowed for additional fees of 125 Euros plus 7 percent in taxes

Size There were 482 room serviced by 350 to 400 employees (depending on the season). The Hotel had 397 Double Rooms, (45m²), 56 Executive Suites, (60m²), three suites, and about 30 apartments on the top floors.

Year Opened-Renovated The hotel opened in 1994. The most recent renovation was on going with a third phase in progress while we were there. The first phase included the common areas like the main entrance, lobby and restaurants. The second phase included the Spa by Six Senses Spas at Hotel Arts Barcelona located on the 43 floor. The third phase, due to be completed by April 2006, included the renovation of 455 rooms.

Lobby And Common Areas The hotel’s interior was decorated in a contemporary style with subdued colors, natural stones and fibers and flower accents. Spacious rooms, high ceilings, sunlit spaces, and large furniture featured prominently.

Bathroom The bathroom was inviting, bright and spacious with large wood and glass doors at the entrance. Two pretty modern sinks were at the center of the room facing a large mirror. To the right as we entered there was a shower stall with a built-in seat and several adjustable heads. Next to it, there was another enclosed space with a toilet and bidet. Across the room from the shower and next to the sinks there was an open full size bath tub.

Room Our attractive, modern and well appointed west facing Deluxe Room (#2910) on the 29 floor had a partial view of the beach and beyond it the port to one side. To the other, we could see the city of Barcelona and the famous La Rambla district. Although there was some construction right next to the building, we very much enjoyed rest of the view. At first glance it looked like a regular hotel room. Upon closer inspection we discovered many small touches that told us someone had give much thought to the room’s design and aesthetics as well as placing features to enrich our stay.

There was a king bed with a cushy mattress, a feather duvet and feather pillows in three sizes. To either side of the bed there were glass covered wood night tables, each one home to a rectangular shaped lamp. On the night table nearest the oversize window, there was a large Meridien dual line phone and in a sliding drawer there was a remote control panel for the lights and window blinds. In the area adjacent to the windows, there were two putty colored cloth chairs with one matching foot stool. Next to them by the wall there was a wood desk facing the room and a wood and putty colored cloth chair. By the desk there was an Internet outlet. A wood entertainment center was the centerpiece of the room. It housed a 30″ Bank Olufsen TV with an integrated CD player and matching speakers; a minibar, a Krups espresso machine and coffee service. A two-sided wood closet with glass walls greeted us in the hallway. Inside, we found an electronic safe. Next to the closet there was a handsome vertical magazine rack with the latest issues of several magazines in English. The room was decorated in a contemporary style with muted whites, wood furniture and wood accents.

Food And Restaurants Options included Bites, Enoteca and Arola. Bites offered three meals a day while Enoteca led by Jaime Perez focused on gourmet dishes and wines while Arola was a two-Michelin rated restaurant headed by Sergi Arola.

Amenities There were bathrobes, slippers, complimentary bottled water, body and hair brushes, natural and loofa sponges, manicure and shaving kits, and an electronic safe. Italian Acqua di Parma toiletries included shampoo and conditioner, body gel, body cream, soaps, and bath salts.

Facilities Six Senses Spa, pool, fitness center, Bites, Enoteca and Arola restaurants, two gift shops and a business center.

Pool The pool was 21 meters x 6 meters with a depth between 1, 70 meters and 1,10 meters.

Fitness Center And SpaThe fitness center was a short elevator ride from the lobby. Guests could enter at their convenience. We were told there was “a sauna, sun tanning beds, steam baths and massage service facilities for guest use, with two separate zones, one for ladies and one for gentlemen.” The gym housed a universal weights system, aerobic bicycle trainers, step machines and treadmills and was open 24 hours daily. We saw one elliptical machine, several stationary bicycles and treadmills.

The Six Senses Spa was on the 42 and 43 floors. To get there for a visit and to confirm my appointment we had to be escorted by a reception desk staff member. From the lobby, we took an elevator to the 34 floor. From there we crossed the lobby of the residential area of the building, which occupied the top floors, to find a second elevator to the spa. Returning required a similar procedure.

It was an attractive facility, although I was disappointed by the upkeep of the spa and the staff attitude. The hallways were dark, the signs difficult to read and there was no personnel in sight for a long time. I walked the halls pressing doors until I found my way up the stairs and back from the treatment room. The sauna was housed in a large, well built room and kept at a good temperature. It had a fabulous view of the beach and city below. The adjacent steam room was also large and well steamed; the locker room area was ample and well appointed. The Spa was 800 square meters in size with terraces and spectacular views over the sea and the city. They offered massage, facial and body treatments in eight treatment suites with chromo therapy and private showers. Facilities included hydrotherapy pools, sauna, steam room and ice-fountains.

Conference Facilities Meeting rooms were the 14,000 square foot Gran Saló Gaudí, the grand ballroom with a pre-function area of 4,600 square feet. A large hydraulic lift provided direct access from street level to the Gran Saló Gaudí for conference equipment or vehicles. It was possible to divide it into three equal parts and one of those could be divided in half again. The Saló Pau Casals was a junior ballroom with more than 3,450 square feet of meeting space. The pre-function area provided an additional 1,700 square feet of meeting room space with natural light. It could be divided into two equal parts.

Other The Business Center offered “state-of-art equipment and services.” Business Center staff could provide secretarial support and assistance with photocopies, word processing, printing and facsimile transmission needs. The Hotel Arts had collected a number of accolades including Best Hotel in Spain Conde Nast Traveler Readers’ Travel Awards, 2005; The World’s Top 100 First Hotel and Ninth Spanish Company in the Official list of Great Places to Work in Spain 2005; Best Hotel in Spain Conde Nast Traveler Readers’ Travel Awards, 2004: The World’s Top 100; “Gold Key Award 2004;” Meetings and Conventions Magazine; “The best hotel service in the world;” Ultimate Service Awards 2004 CNN; “Voted as one of The 500 Greatest hotels in the World;” Greatest Hotels in The World; and Travel and Leisure magazine 2004 “Best Hotel in Spain” Guía Gourmetour 2004.

Check-In-Check-Out Process Ease Our early arrival (9:45 a.m.) was met gracefully. We dedicated the next couple of hours to discovering the hotel and enjoying the hospitality of the lobby area with other waiting couples. Express checkout was less organized. The initial bill was revised after our departure and we had to question one of the items. All in all it was a positive experience.

Cleanliness Very good

Date Of Review October 2005

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Would You Stay There Again? Yes