Overall Impression With seven generations of experience in the hotel business, the Sanoner family, who own Adler Thermae Spa & Relax Resort Tuscany in Italy, know a thing or two about running a high end luxury spa resort. The primary aim of the resort is for guests to relax, unwind and feel rejuvenated. Based on our experience, and the fact that 80 percent of their guests are habitual visitors returning two or three times a year, they do this very well.

When one of the owners, Klaus Sanoner, hurt his back his doctor suggested visiting the thermal baths in Tuscany for the healing elements of the mineral-rich waters. Following doctor’s orders, he was quickly enamored with the region’s beautiful surroundings and the thermal waters that were effective in his healing process. He thought it would be a perfect location to open another Sanoner family-owned luxury spa resort.

Built into a hillside within the Val D’Orcia region of Tuscany, a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site thanks to its beautiful landscape, the 90-room spa resort is situated in the heart of the Tuscan countryside and surrounded by picturesque rolling hills. As avid spa lovers, the Sanoner family have visited numerous spas around the world, and Adler Thermae Spa & Relax Resort Tuscany is a mixture of their favorite features that they have experienced as guests.

Some of our favorite aspects of the resort were the idyllic location with views that inspire relaxation and restoration, an attractive décor that tastefully mixed Tuscan villa charm with a clean modern feel, numerous exercise facilities that made working out thoroughly enjoyable, an impressive menu of spa treatments executed by dedicated and talented staff (I had three fantastic spa treatments and appreciated that the body products they used were made from organic ingredients), healthy food options with local fresh produce at breakfast and dinner, outstanding personable service, and complimentary goodies such as robes, flip flops and welcome cocktails. While unquestionably an upscale spa resort, I liked that the atmosphere was laid-back, unpretentious and family friendly.

Children Children of all ages were welcome at the hotel. The only restriction was that children had to be at least 12 years old to enter the spa treatment area, which included the sauna and steam rooms. Children under 12 had to be accompanied by an adult in the fitness areas.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury spa resort

Concierge The front desk staff provided concierge services; they were friendly and helpful throughout our stay.

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi in our room, as well as complimentary access to a computer in the lobby. We were given an individualized password for Internet access. On the first day, we had fast and consistent connectivity and intermittent connectivity on days two and three.

General Manager Anton Picher

Handicapped Access The hotel welcomed handicapped guests. There was an elevator in the lobby, as well as the option to use the hotel’s mobile ramp in areas of the hotel with stairs. Four of the guestrooms were equipped for guests with wheelchairs, and the spa treatment rooms were wide enough for wheelchairs to pass through them. The only area where wheelchairs were not allowed was in the sauna, steam rooms and thermal pools, due to hygiene issues that the wheels presented. The staff indicated that they frequently had guests with disabilities since the thermal waters were considered healthy for bones and joints, and guests with disabilities were lifted into the thermal waters by staff members when needed.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location In the town of Bagno Vignoni in Tuscany, the nearest international airports were Florence (approximately one and a half hours away), Rome (two hours away), and Pisa (two and a half hours away). From Siena, an hour’s drive away, we were picked up by a private car service that the hotel had arranged for us. On our return to Florence, we paid 60 euros for a private car service (arranged by the hotel) to the town of Chiusi, which was roughly 45 minutes from the hotel, followed by a 45-minute train ride to Florence (17 Euros per person). It did not bother us that the train experienced delays because we found the journey to be an enjoyable way to take in the beautiful Tuscan countryside.

Owned And Managed The Sanoner family

Pets Allowed No

Size There were 90 rooms spread out over two floors on the 15 acre property. The hotel had 127 staff members, of which 42 worked in the spa.

Year Opened-Renovated Adler Thermae Spa & Relax Resort Tuscany opened in 2004. Each January, the resort shuts down for maintenance and upkeep of its facilities. The most recent additions to the hotel in January of 2012 included the poolside osteria, the outdoor fitness area and bocce ball area. In January 2013, hotel executives planned to add 10 new suites, a new restaurant and a relaxation room.

Lobby And Common Areas Blending in with its surroundings, simply and tastefully decorated, the resort building resembled a villa from the region. The outdoor entrance of the hotel had beautifully-landscaped bright colored flowers, green plants and cypress trees that nicely offset the red-tiled rooftop and the neutral hues of the resort. The sun-filled lobby had a contemporary Tuscan villa feel with white travertine marble floors and walnut wood panels on select walls. While the lobby was busy at times, the open space, simple decor and light coloring lent it a calm atmosphere. Paintings by artist Elly Sanoner, the matriarch of the Sanoner family, could be found throughout the resort’s corridors.

Bathroom Our bathroom was about eight square meters and immediately to the right of the entryway. In the main area of the bathroom there was a large mirror over the sink, toiletries, and an oversized bathtub big enough to accommodate two average-sized adults. I had an opulent bath one night, reclining in bubbles while watching the sunset colors change over the distant Tuscan hills through the window immediately above the tub. The bathroom also had a separate room for the toilet and bidet, and another room for the shower, which had a dispenser of Adler Spa red grape shower gel made from local products.

Room Our room was attractive and comfortable and we enjoyed spending time in it. The first thing I noticed when we opened the door to room 328 was the stunning view of the Tuscan countryside, with a Medieval military tower on the top of the highest visible peak. Our second floor 35 square-meter Superior Double Room faced the pool area of the hotel and had sliding glass doors that led to a small balcony. The entryway had green carpeting and immediately to the left was a closet hidden by mirrored French doors. In the middle of the room were two twin beds pushed together to make one oversized bed with individual duvet covers. We found the bed to be firm but comfortable. Adding a distinct flair, above the bed was a tastefully hand-painted fresco of the Tuscan countryside by Georg Mahlknecht da Palmer, the father-in-law of one of the hotel owners. Opposite the fresco was a flat screen television with 38 channels in numerous languages including Italian, German, English, French and Spanish. Just past the sleeping area was a small wooden step that led to the sitting area, which housed a wooden desk, chair, small sofa, chair and table. The sunny air-conditioned room was spacious, comfortable, and attractive, with tasteful echos of a contemporary Tuscan villa in coloring and decor. What really set it apart for us were the glorious views of the Tuscan countryside from the bedroom and bathroom.

Food And Restaurants Our half board accommodations included breakfast and dinner (excluding drinks) at the Starlight Roof Restaurant, which was one floor above the lobby and run by Chef Gaetano Vaccaro. Breakfast was served from 7:30 a.m. until 11 a.m., and dinner was served from 7:30 p.m. until 9:30 p.m. Upon entering the restaurant in the evening, we were escorted to a table in the far corner from the entrance, our designated table for the next two nights. I was pleased to be near several windows that offered lovely views of the countryside at sunset.

The restaurant, which seated up to 210 guests, aimed to deliver healthy cuisine made from high quality local ingredients. Our waiter, Cristiano, placed the wine menu on our table, and rightfully joked that it was more like a wine bible. The house brick of a book included over 550 wines, all of which were Italian with the exception of French champagne. On the first night, I had a delicious red wine from the neighboring town of Montalcino, which was well known for its high quality wines. On the second night, Cristiano offered us a complimentary glass of Revi sparkling wine from Trento in the northeast of Italy made from pinot noir grapes; when I am craving a light and sparkling rosé during the summer, this is exactly what I want. Dinner started with an invitation to visit the buffet that included fresh greens, fruits, locally produced cheeses, and a wide selection of cakes and ice cream for dessert. I liked the bread buffet where I hand-selected a variety of breads (baked in-house) for our table’s bread basket. In addition to the salad bar and dessert buffet, dinner included a four-course a la carte menu, which changed daily

On the first night, I skipped the salad bar and chose plates from the a la carte menu. I had the Soppressata of octopus and prawns on chive potatoes, cream of leek and pumpkin soup, Timbale of couscous and Caponata of vegetables on a tomato puree, and panna cotta for dessert. My husband also started with the octopus and prawns on chive potatoes followed by the risotto with cuttlefish and scallops with cherry tomatoes deglazed with Vernaccia, and the tuna with fennel flavored salmoriglio sauce and crispy courgette sticks. On the second night, I started at the salad bar where I loaded up on local greens, artichokes, sun dried tomatoes, locally produced pecorino cheeses, and beets. For my first plate from the a la carte menu, I chose the mixed mushrooms in a pasta bundle on a parmesan cream, followed by a quiche of potatoes and Asiago. My husband chose the Maccheroncini of the Val d’Orcia with pulp of red scorpion fish and swordfish on fresh tomatoes and aubergines. For his next dish he chose lamb in a spicy bread crust and olives with duchess potatoes and pan-fried Swiss chard. We finished the meal with a tasty 2003 dessert wine from the Bindella winery of Tuscany.

I particularly enjoyed the breakfasts because of the many healthy and flavorful buffet options. I started at the egg station, where one of the chefs cooked up a delicious omelet with vegetables, cheese and ham. I then visited the yogurt and fruit bar where I piled my plate with fresh passion fruit, pineapple, and kiwi and a creamy vanilla yogurt with whole wheat cereal. I skipped the cereal bar that included at least eight different options, but appreciated that there was cow’s milk, soy milk and goat’s milk. Next I went to the crepe station where the chef delivered a perfectly executed crepe that I topped with one of the five locally produced honeys. I picked up a freshly squeezed orange juice on the way to our table where a delicious latte macchiato was waiting for me. I made a mental note to return to the separate juice bar, which included six options of organic juices and a juicer next to a large bowl of fruits and vegetables where guests could make their own concoctions.

The decor of the restaurant, with an open retractable rooftop, was simple and tasteful, and designed to emulate a typical Tuscan plaza. While we enjoyed taking in the sunshine during breakfast, we learned quickly that sunglasses were necessary in the morning if we chose not to sit at a shaded table.

Because we found the breakfast buffet to be so filling, we were never hungry enough to justify eating lunch. The lunch menu, which was a fixed price of 17 euros and included hors d’oeuvres, salads, and a warm dish such as pasta or fish, was served in the osteria next to the pool area.

The maître d’hotel of Starlight Roof Restaurant, Manfredo Venditti, visited our table several times throughout our dining experiences to make sure we were happy and to answer any questions. Through Manfredo I learned that the outstanding restaurant’s herbs came from the hotel’s gardens on the rooftops of the guest rooms. Although the evening dishes were not as rich and sinfully delicious as some of the other meals we had in Italy, overall we had an enjoyable dining experience at Starlight Roof Restaurant and appreciated the numerous healthy options made from local Tuscan produce.

Amenities On the way to our room, the bell hop walked us to the spa area where we picked up two terry cloth white robes selected based on our respective sizes, two large yellow towels, flip flops (ours to take) and an oversized beach bag to use throughout our stay. In our room, a generous basket of fruit and a 45-centiliter bottle of still water was waiting for us in the sitting area. There were also four types of complimentary teas: Adler Spa Re-lax, Adler Spa Legeresse, Adler Spa De-tox and Adler Spa Di-gest. Toiletries included 150 milliliter size bottles of the Adler Spa Honey line of shampoo, conditioner and body lotion. The Adler Spa Resort organic cosmetic line was made with locally produced Tuscan honey. Other amenities included two individual shoe shiners, two shower caps, and cotton tips and two small bars of Adler Spa soaps. There were complimentary fruit and mini-cakes from 4 p.m. to 5 p.m. in the bar and lounge area, and complimentary light nibbles such as pistachios, artichokes and olives just before dinner. On the first night of our stay we went to the bar area and had the option of drinking a glass of Prosecco, a mixed non-alcoholic fruit drink, a Prosecco and Martini rosé mixed drink, or a vodka with grapefruit juice as our complimentary welcome beverage.

There were excursions to local points of interests organized by the hotel, and a Kid’s Club that included activities such as children’s cinema, organized games, local walks and a children’s wellness program.

Facilities Hotel guests had access to: restaurant, poolside osteria, wine cellar and tastings, bar and lounge with an observation area overlooking the Tuscan countryside, indoor and outdoor fitness area, indoor and outdoor thermal pools, outdoor sports pool, children’s pool, spa and relaxation area.

Pools The indoor and outdoor thermal pools were 1.40 meters deep. The children’s pool also had thermal waters but ranged in depth from 30 centimeters to 45 centimeters. Collectively, the three pools added up to about 1,000 square meters. Thermal waters were pumped in from local natural springs and mixed with cooler waters to attain a bathing temperature of 96.8 degrees Fahrenheit. Dating back to Etruscan and Roman times, these mineral-rich thermal waters were believed to have curative powers. In addition to the thermal pools, the 25-meter sports pool was 12.5 meters wide and 1.4 meters deep, with a water temperature of 82.4 degrees Fahrenheit. It was necessary to pay a supplement to enter the Grotta Salina, a separate thermal water pool with salt from the Dead Sea.

Fitness Center And Spa There was an indoor and outdoor fitness area with unobstructed views of the Tuscan countryside. The indoor facilities had a variety of cardio and weight machines, as well as free weights, and an open exercise room where organized classes were held. The resort had an average of six exercise classes a day, including a stationary bicycle class in the pool. The outdoor fitness area included treadmills and stationary bikes just off of the pool area, a 13.5 kilometer outdoor jogging trail through the Tuscan countryside, an all-purpose sports ground including a mini-soccer, basketball, badminton, volleyball, tennis and bocce ball area, an outdoor yoga space, and a ping-pong and table football area. Guests also had the option of utilizing the resort’s mountain bikes at no additional cost.

During our stay, we thoroughly enjoyed swimming laps in the sports pool, admiring the views while using the indoor or outdoor treadmills, jogging on the outdoor trail, and riding bikes in the countryside.

The hotel had a wonderful spa on the premise with 100 spa treatments to choose from. I experienced three excellent treatments and specifically enjoyed the distinctiveness of the Brunello Ritual. The treatment began with a soothing relaxation massage followed up with a hydro massage in which a pitcher’s worth of Brunello wine was poured into the warm bath water to stimulate blood circulation. I was also satisfied with the Poppea Massage, which put me in a relaxed state and my favorite treatment was the Excellence Anti-aging Facial.

The spa had 21 treatment rooms, a Turkish-style steam bath in a cave, sauna rooms, a room specific for rasul clay baths, an underground salt bath, a relaxation area with two floors that housed leather loungers and individual waterbed loungers, a coiffeur and a beauty shop where guests could purchase products made exclusively for Adler Spa Resorts. After spending an afternoon in the Finnish sauna, the Turkish-style steam bath and relaxation area, my husband and I felt noticeably re-energized. The pleasant landscape and architecture of the garden area in which the humidity rooms were located made it easy for us to unwind. Although bathing suits and bathrobes were not allowed in the steam bath and sauna we wrapped up in towels and put our clothing on the hooks hanging immediately outside the humidity rooms.

Other The hotel was recipient of the 2012 Trip Advisor Travelers’ Choice Award.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review June 2012

Reviewers Article by Laura Scheiber

Photos by Matthew James Harris

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression For someone who loves spas as much as I do, Adler Spa felt like a playground of bliss. With approximately 100 treatment options aimed at pampering guests and ranging from signature Adler massages and facials, thermal water treatments unique to the region, to Ayurvedic and oriental treatments, I was initially overwhelmed by the many tempting choices. The knowledgeable staff helped me book three treatments over the phone a week before my arrival that best met my needs and interests. Based on the friendly service I received, I had high expectations of an outstanding spa experience. I was pleased with the treatments.

The spa was located on the ground floor of the Adler Thermae Spa and Relax Resort Tuscany, in the town of Bagno Vignoni, known since Etruscan times for its therapeutic thermal spring waters. I took a sneak peak of the spa facilities while standing in the outside entryway of the hotel, which offered a lovely bird’s eye view of a peaceful and well-manicured outdoor garden built next to a hillside made of travertine marble. Surrounding the top of the travertine walls were brightly colored flowers and plants typical of the region. At the center of the garden was a light green mini lake filled with thermal water that had a wooden footbridge leading to a relaxation area, Finnish sauna, Turkish steam bath and Watsu (treatment area for shiatsu massages in thermal water). The infrastructure of the Tuscan-style villa in which the hotel and spa were housed was made of white travertine marble and walnut wood. The décor, simple yet tasteful, blended a classic Tuscan villa style with a clean modern design.

In the waiting area next to the spa reception desk on the ground floor of the hotel, I enjoyed the views through large glass windows of the hotel’s thermal pool with indoor and outdoor sections, and the breathtaking Tuscan countryside serving as the backdrop.

My first treatment, the Brunello Ritual, was a 45-minute relaxation massage with Tuscan red grape seed oil, followed by a 12-minute soak in a tub filled with bubbling warm water and Brunello wine from Montalcino to enhance blood circulation, followed by 15 minutes of relaxing on a waterbed while nibbling on a plate of four distinct pecorino cheeses and sipping a glass of Brunello wine. At the conclusion of the Brunello Ritual treatment I was mentally and physically relaxed while at the same time I had a feeling of increased blood circulation.

The next day, I had the Poppea Massage, a 50-minute relaxation massage in which the therapist used a deliciously scented cream made from locally produced honey and sheep’s milk, immediately followed by the Excellence Anti-aging Facial. While I enjoyed all three treatments, I was most impressed with the Excellence Anti-aging Facial. On our third day at Adler Thermae Spa and Relax Resort Tuscany, my husband and I visited the sauna and steam rooms surrounding the thermal water lake that I had seen from the entryway of the hotel. By sunset, I had reached a new state of relaxation that I don’t ever remember experiencing before spending time at Adler Spa.

After two consecutive days of spa treatments followed by an afternoon of enjoying the steam and sauna rooms and relaxation area, I left Adler Spa in a strikingly better mental and physical state than when I arrived. Because I wanted to experience treatments unique to the spa and the Tuscan region, I was happy with my choices of the Brunello Ritual, the Poppea massage, and the Excellence Anti-aging Facial treatments, which utilized bio-cosmetics made from local products, as well as ingredients from the Italian Alps. The calming atmosphere, attractive décor, high quality organic products, and the talented staff who seemed genuinely dedicated to providing outstanding treatments made Adler spa a relaxing and unforgettable experience for me.

Handicapped Access The spa welcomed handicapped guests. There was an elevator in the lobby of the hotel with access to the spa one flight down. The spa treatment rooms were wide enough for wheelchairs to pass through them. The only areas where wheelchairs were not allowed was in the sauna, steam rooms and thermal pools due to hygiene issues that the wheels presented. The staff indicated that they frequently had guests with disabilities since the thermal waters were considered healthy for bones and joints, and staff members could lift guests with disabilities into the thermal waters.

Location Within the 15-acre grounds of Adler Thermae Spa and Relax Resort Tuscany

Number Of Staff 42

Owned-Managed The Sanoner family

Size The spa had approximately 3,500 square meters of indoor and outdoor space including indoor and outdoor thermal pools, treatment rooms, relaxation rooms, mini thermal lake, humidity rooms, locker rooms, showers, and front desk area.

Staff Training Maria Bonella Pinzi received the following training: Chiropractic course at the Italian National Association of Prana therapists, Ayurveda Massaggio with Sirio Carrapa Master, Shiatsu School at Zen Monastery Il Cerchio di Milano with Master Tetsugen Serra, Zen Shiatsu School third level at Shin Shiatsu in Abbadia San Salvatore (SI) with Master Libano Rossi, Reiki first and second level, Reflexology at Shin Shiatsu School of Abbadia San Salvatore (SI) with Libano Rossi Master, and Course of Andean-Peruvian Massagewith Curandero H.H. Mamani of Peru.

Veronica Maione studied at the School of Estetician A.M.E Aurea Mediterranea in Cosenza, Italy. She had four years of training in facial treatments and relaxation massage. According to Minnie Romano, spa manager, Adler Spa invests a significant amount of money in additional training for the spa staff. Management constantly keeps an eye on trends and demands in the spa world and when a kind of treatment is in high demand, they have experts in that area come to the spa to offer training to certify the staff in these techniques.

Treatment Rooms The Brunello Ritual took place in a spotlessly clean candlelit room with rich deep colors large enough for couples and bigger than any spa treatment room I had ever seen. It included two massage beds, two bathtubs, a standup shower area and a waterbed for two.

The Poppea massage and Excellence Anti-aging Facial took place in two separate rooms just down the hall from the couples treatment room. In contrast to the windowless couples treatment room, these rooms were filled with natural light that complemented their soft yellow walls. With white shades on the window that provided privacy, these rooms faced the outdoor garden area and were simply but pleasantly designed with walnut-colored wooden floors and white bedding. While the ambience of the first room was dark and enigmatic (but still conducive to relaxing), these rooms were warm yet soothing.

Year Opened-Renovated The spa first opened in 2004 and each January it closes for maintenance and upkeep of its facilities. The management planned to add a relaxation room in January of 2013.

Amenities When we first arrived at Adler Thermae Spa and Relax Resort, we were escorted to the spa area to pick up complimentary terrycloth bathrobes, flip flops (which were ours to take after leaving the hotel), towels, and a large beach bag to carry them. At the entrance of the spa there was a selection of exclusive Adler Spa herbal teas that promoted relaxation, detoxification, and digestion. There was also an elegant water container with dispensers for cold and room temperature still and sparkling water. Next to the water there was a large basket of apples and peaches.

Facilities There were 21 treatment rooms: private massage rooms (one had a Vichy shower), private facial rooms, a couples treatment room, an aromatherapy room, an Aqua Baths room, a Terra body treatment room, a Fango packs room, Ayurvedic treatment rooms, and oriental massage rooms. There was also a steam sauna with Tuscan herbs (the Aremisia), an Etruscan sauna with salt steam (Salino), a Finnish olive wood sauna (Olivae), a Turkish-style steam bath in a cave (Grotta del Filosofo), an underground salt bath (Grotta Salina), a Watsu with thermal water, and a clay bath room (Argillae). There was also a beauty shop where guests could purchase exclusive Adler Spa bio-cosmetics and beauty items made from local products. Outside the immediate spa area, guests had access to the indoor and outdoor gymnasium (with the option of private coaching), a coiffeur, and a manicure and pedicure station.

Pools Spa guests had access to the hotel’s thermal pool with indoor and outdoor sections, the children’s fun pool, and the 25-meter freshwater sports pool. Next to the outdoor pools, guests had the option of paying extra to enter the Salt Water Grotto, a spa treatment, a thermal water pool with Dead Sea salt.

Lockers And Bathrooms There was a small locker room just outside of the waiting area for changing, storing clothes, and showering. A separate shower area with bathrooms was inside the spa en route to the relaxation room, sauna and steam rooms.

Other The spa had been recognized as 2011 World’s Best Spa by Trip Advisor and World’s Best Wine Spa by gayot.com that same year.

While check-out from the hotel was at 11 a.m., we had the option of paying 50 euros per person to access spa facilities for the day, or 100 euros a day to access spa facilities and have access to a hotel room. While it was possible for non-hotel guests to pay 50 euros and book at least one spa treatment in order to access the spa for the day, the hotel staff did not advertise this day spa option because they preferred that hotel guests be the primary clients and have optimal appointment options for spa treatments. Eighty percent of spa guests were repeat hotel guests, staying at the hotel two to three times a year for an average stay of four days.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review June 2012

Number Of Treatments Three

Reviewers Article by Laura Scheiber

Photos by Matthew James Harris

Treatments Experienced The Brunello Ritual, the first treatment I received, began with a 45-minute full body massage. Using a generous amount of red grape seed oil, my massage therapist, Veronica Maione, applied soft pressure in long strokes along my back, arms legs, feet, stomach, feet, chest and head. The time seemed to fly by and because I was in such a relaxed state by the end of the massage, I am not sure how I would have made it from the massage table to the nearby bathtub for my follow-up hydro massage had it not been for Veronica’s help. She made sure my head was comfortably placed against a rolled up towel on the tub’s edge and then added a pitcher of Brunello wine to the bathtub before leaving me to enjoy the effects of the warm water and wine. Bubbles erupted from all directions and cool water sprouted from the bottom of the tub which contrasted in a pleasant way with the warm bath water. About 12 minutes later, another person came in and helped me into my robe and onto a nearby waterbed, leaving a plate of four distinctly-aged pecorino cheeses and a 2007 glass of Brunello from the Conti Costanti Vineyard. I took my time savoring the different flavors of the cheese and appreciated how well each of them went with the Brunello wine. After getting dressed, I sat outside in the garden area in my robe and enjoyed my state of bliss thanks to the Brunello Ritual. A gentle breeze kept me cool while I took in the hot Tuscan sun.

The next day my spa experience began with the Poppea massage. With over 20 years of massage experience, Maria Bonella Pinzi executed a delightful 50-minute Swedish massage using a thick cream made from locally-produced honey and sheep’s milk. Already sold on the delicious scent of the honey fragrance, I later learned that the honey in the cream was aged for at least three years. This meant that it contained concentrated amounts of sugars, which was thought to be good for the skin. I was impressed that Maria Bonella pinpointed my trouble spots without me mentioning them to her.

Already feeling like a loose noodle, my massage was immediately followed up with the Excellence Anti-aging Facial which began with cleansing and toning lotions. Monica, the same person who gave me a massage during the Brunello Ritual, gently massaged my face with a thick cream that had a high concentration of melatonin. At this point I started drifting off because her massage technique was so soothing. A few minutes later, she applied a skin masque that also had a high concentration of melatonin. After the masque, Monica applied a special skin serum and a melatonin-rich cream. Integrated into the facial was a fantastic head and foot massage. I was out cold by the end of the treatment. Monica is a talented massage and facial therapist with a special touch conducive to relaxation. Part of the reason she impressed me was because she seemed to truly enjoy her work and appeared dedicated to ensuring I had excellent treatments.

Would You Return? Yes

Overall Impression We arrived at the Relais Santa Croce from the Florence train station in the pouring rain. As soon as the taxi stopped at the hotel entrance, a helpful doorman took charge of our luggage and directed us up one flight of wide stairs (there was also an elevator) to reception. Once we dispensed with the check-in formalities someone showed us around the family friendly hotel and escorted us to our Junior Suite where we quickly shed our rain gear. Although we did not see much of the sun during our three night stay in the Renaissance city we enjoyed our visit, in great part, thanks to the quiet and comfort of our accommodations.

Exploring the city on foot in rainy weather was best done in short excursions. This meant that we spent more time in our room and at the hotel than we had initially expected. Fortunately our hotel was up to the challenge. The common areas were beautiful and our Junior Suite included complimentary internet access. Except at breakfast we seldom saw or heard other guests. It felt luxuriously, at times, as if we were the only guests in the former noble palace.

The small hotel was ideally situated on Via Ghibelina, a long and quiet street just to the side the main tourist areas, providing us quick access to the city’s famous landmarks on foot while remaining outside the really congested areas. We also appreciated the hotel’s intimate and serene ambiance, buffet breakfast and elegant décor.

Children The hotel welcomed children of all ages.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury boutique hotel in the five-star luxe category.

Concierge Francesca Lotti

Connectivity At our request the staff provided us an ADSL cable when we arrived (the first one we received was too short to reach from the wall plug to the desk and they immediately sent a longer cable) to connect from out notebook computer on the desk to the internet. Access was complimentary. In addition, there were two computers on the ground floor of the hotel for guest use.

Handicapped Access According to a spokesperson, “Yes, features as per EU legislation.”

Hotel Manager Eugenio Rigo

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location In the Santa Croce neighborhood of Florence within a few minutes walk from the Duomo, Uffizi Gallery, and Pitti Palace. The hotel is between the cathedral and Basilica of Santa Croce.

Managed Baglioni Hotels Spa

Owned Roberto Polito

Pets Allowed The hotel welcomed dogs and cats only (not bigger than a cocker spaniel)

Size The multi-story hotel had 24 rooms and suites and employed up to 35 staff members depending on the season.

Year Opened-Renovated It first opened as a hotel in 2007. In 2009, the property was purchased by Baglioni Hotels Spa. The property was recently renovated. The artisans paid special attention to original architectural features, precious metals, period furniture and frescoes.

Lobby And Common Areas The hotel was established in the former 17th century palace of the Marchese Baldinucci, in his time a treasurer to the pope and a member of the Florentine aristocracy. It was decorated with post renaissance frescoes and antiques. The common areas of the palace, now the Palazzo Jacometti Ciofi, were decorated in an 18th century style featuring antiques and modern furniture.

Each floor has seven windows facing the front of the building. The ground floor windows are covered by railings and stone frames extend down to the pavement and around the openings. Two entrance columns, brought from Rome when the palace was built, support a balcony. The ancient coat of arms of the Baldinucci Family and the faint inscription Deo Spes Mea can be seen just above the balcony and on the granite columns.

From the ground floor where the street level entrance was located we climbed broad stone and Venetian Terrazzo stairs to the first floor for reception or directly to our room. The corridor floors were of grey concrete and resin. The bar, a step away from reception, had several sofas centered around a white marble fireplace. There was a carved wood bar enhanced by wooden wall paneling where the liqueurs were housed. A former music room, the Sala della Musica had original hardwood flooring, a vaulted ceiling with bright stuccoes set against a beige background, a white marble fireplace and two brick stoves between the windows. The Fumoir or smoking room had frescoes in burgundy, blue and green. It was furnished with wood and leather armchairs and antique rugs.

Bathroom The pretty bathroom was decorated in shades of beige and pale brown. It had Corian walls and russet stone on the floor, sink base and tub deck. There was a bathtub with a towel rack, stand alone shower with a glass door, rain shower, hand held hose and steam feature. There was also a toilet, a bidet, and a sink with a large mirror above it. When the toilet flushed some water spilled out of the toilet bowl. We lowered the toilet bowl top to avoid the water spilling onto us however that mean the next time we used the toilet there were splashes of water on the plastic toilet seat. There was a vanity mirror on the wall by the sink. There were twin bath robes hanging on the wall behind the door.

Room Our second floor room, Junior Suite 214, was 43.2 square meters in size with a view to the building across the street and down onto Via Ghibelina (mainly parked cars and three large blue street garbage bins). Its most noteworthy feature was an elevated walk-in wardrobe featuring three stone arches at the bottom of the wall.

We reached our room via a wide stone staircase or if we were feeling less energetic there was a large elevator. The hallways were lined with modern style wall hanging lamps with sheer cloths for shades. Our room was at the end of a short hallway behind a simple door opened with a leather encased electronic key. Once the door was open we hung the key on a special holder to turn and keep on the room lights.

From an entrance hallway the bathroom was to the right and to the left, up four black wood steps, there was a rectangular area about five feet wide that housed a leather bench followed by a doorless two sided closet open on three sides. The closet had hanging space and shelves. The bottom part of the space was designed as a luggage area above three low to the ground drawers.

The bedroom had neutral colors (dark and light wood, pale walls, beige curtains), high ceilings with wood beams spaced about four feet apart and painted white, and pale beechwood floors. Two thirds of the walls were off white and the bottom of the walls was covered with dark wood panels. During the day sunlight filtered through the windows. Three small shaded lamps hung from the ceiling along the entrance hallway, two upright lamps, a small recessed light in the closet and two night lamps provided subdued lighting in the room.

There were three large windows facing Via Ghibelina. Each one had a short aged railing and wood shutters. On the inside there were double curtains for privacy and shade. The left part of the room was home to a pretty black and white wall facing desk with an armless russet colored chair. On it there was a telephone and above it there was a 40 inch Philips flat screen television with a Sky satellite box at the bottom. An extra wide bed made up of two small mattresses set together against a common brown leather headboard was across from the desk. To the left of the bed there was a narrow black and white night table with four drawers. The other side of the bed was home to a brown wood table with a second phone. Both phones had speakers, as well as hold and redial functions. An oval folding wood table stood against one wall near the bed and a three foot wide comfortable brown leather bench was at the foot of the bed. The temperature was controlled via a digital wall mounted display.

In the hallway there was a built-in cabinet that held a two sided minibar including a mini refrigerator with chilled beverages. The windows drowned out most of the exterior sound. We heard room doors along our hallway closing, classical music one night and during the day we heard the faint sounds of traffic but otherwise it was mostly quiet in our second floor room.

Food And Restaurants A buffet breakfast, available between 7:30 a.m. and 11 a.m., was included in the room rate. In addition, it was possible to order items for a supplement from a printed menu: eggs cooked various ways, oat meal, forest berries and salmon and toast. It was also possible to order room service. Lunch was available from 12:30 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner was served between 7:30 p.m. and 10:30 p.m. at the hotel restaurant and through room service. The night before we left we dined at the hotel restaurant Guelfi and Ghibellini which served Mediterranean and Tuscan dishes prepared by Chef Marco Tremonte and his staff. Francesco, who worked as barman and server at the restaurant, looked after us that night. He was generous with his recommendations which were worthwhile. For Antipasti we sampled the Foie gras with apples and the Octopus with prawns in a white bean sauce with a touch of virgin olive oil; for Primi Piatti we had the Agnolotti (large ravioli) stuffed with cheese and topped with shaved truffles; for Secondi we had the Grilled steak and the Seabass (my favorite dish); for Dolci we sampled the Vanilla Sorbet (tasted more like ice cream) and the Chocolate, a flour-less cake accompanied by tangerine ice cream with a slice of mandarin orange. A small tray of petit fours arrived with the hot beverages: four biscotti, two coconut balls, and two raspberry tartlets. We accompanied the meal with a chilled Prosecco and Tuscan red wine.

Amenities There were two cotton bathrobes (in large and extra large), a set of made-in-Italy house brand toiletries made by La Bottega Dell’Albergo S.p.A. in 50 milliliter plastic containers of hair conditioner, shampoo, body lotion, bath foam in herbal and fig scent as well as two loofah sponges in the bathtub, two vegetable soaps, and shoe sponge and shower caps in boxes. A separate container held cotton balls and cotton swabs. There was a copy of the International Herald Tribune in the breakfast room in the morning. There were complimentary pay-per-view films available through the television system (it took 30 minutes of attempts on our system and the assistance of one of the staff who brought a second remote control with him to figure out how the system worked).

Facilities There was a breakfast room, a small bar area and an adjacent restaurant.

Other The Relais Santa Croce was part of the Baglioni Hotel Group, one of 15 hotels and a residence (one in London, nine in Italy, and five in France) striving for “a less formal type of elegance and hospitality without missing out on design details.” The Baglioni Hotel Group is a Milan based company. The Enoteca Pinchiorri, a well known restaurant, was on the ground floor of the building.

Some of the celebrities who have stayed at the hotel include: Angelina Jolie, Charles Aznavour, Kate Moss, Brad Pitt, Jessica Simpson, Jose Luis Varela, Dionne Warwick and Caetano Veloso.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review May 2010

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Service There was twice daily room service including restocking of the minibar twice per day. Front desk staff secured domestic train tickets on our behalf (the Italian website did not accept foreign credit cards. Fortunately, we were able to withdraw euros from a nearby ATM and pay the hotel in cash as required).

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Le Capanne was a short two-hour drive from Florence, and a world away. The magic began to unfold with the last mile of our journey, as we started up the narrow, intermittently paved country road to Camporsevoli. It meandered steeply upward, each turn revealing more spectacular views of the valley below, a rolling landscape of vineyards and olive groves punctuated by centuries-old farmhouses. Soon a discrete wooden sign announced Le Capanne; an unassuming name ( capanne is Italian for shacks) for this superb $2.5 million fieldstone villa perched on five acres (two hectares) of beautifully landscaped grounds. It turned out to be merely an allusion to the humble origins of the villa. Le Capanne was for centuries one of the many farmsteads on the 500-acre (200 hectare) hillside Camporsevoli Estate. It was only recently restored into a five-bedroom rustic beauty with an inviting country Tuscan décor and the latest comforts and conveniences, including satellite TV, WiFi and a large swimming pool. The housekeepers, Francisco and Maria, were on hand to welcome us and ensure we were happily settled in.

Le Capanne’s multi-level floor plan followed the slope of the land to offer from several areas of the house a panoramic view of the valley to the south and west and the distant hills beyond. The lowest of the three levels held the main living area including a double living room, a long country-style dining room that could comfortably accommodate 10 guests, and a large farmhouse kitchen appointed with gourmet appliances. All three rooms opened onto a flagstone terrace that circled the façade, for unhindered indoor/outdoor living. An interior staircase led to the main entrance foyer and upper floor bedroom suites. Each bedroom featured its own bath and walk-in closet. The top floor could be closed off from the lower part of the house, with its own entrance from the upper level. In addition to its oversize master bedroom, it featured a foyer that doubled as a small study, a family room with fireplace and a fully appointed galley kitchen. The overall layout of the villa kept each suite private, making the property ideal for multi-family or multi-generation vacations.

For us, Le Capanne was a delightful bucolic setting for a girlfriends’ retreat. After one hectic week exploring the architectural and artistic treasures of Florence and the constant bustle of city life, Le Capanne was a relaxing base from where we could visit, at our leisure, the magnificent medieval towns and villages of southern Tuscany. Siena, Assisi, Montepulciano, San Casciano di Bagni, Montalcino and other famous local landmarks were within one hour’s drive via country roads filled with the eye-popping scenery of the Chianti and Val d’Orcia. An unexpected pleasure of our memorable stay was the most generous hospitality from the owners of the property, Marchese and Marchesa Grossi di Camporsevoli. Their family had owned the estate since the end of the seventeenth century, and they still maintained their own country residence in the private hilltop hamlet of Camporsevoli, a short distance up the road from Le Capanne. They and their daughter Valentina were there on the weekend of our arrival. They graciously welcomed us with a dinner invitation. Later in the week, the ever-charming Valentina returned to Camporsevoli where we joined her in the Grossis kitchen for an interactive Tuscan cuisine demonstration followed by a sumptuous lunch of our own creation.

A secluded villa with all modern conveyances in the timeless pastoral beauty of the southern Tuscan countryside, surrounded by some of most vaunted artistic and historic sites in Italy and the warmest hospitality from owners and staff; what more could we ask for? The chance to return – soon!

Class Of Accommodation Private luxury villa

Connectivity Complimentary wireless Internet connectivity was operational in most of the house. Because of the thickness of the walls, there were a few dead spots that we soon learned to avoid. The house had a wired phone connection. Communications costs were the responsibility of the guests. Cell phone reception was operational but erratic.

Handicapped Access The lower level bedroom was wheelchair friendly. It featured its own ramp entrance and wheelchair accessible shower. With only one step to the living room, dinning room and kitchen, an access ramp could be made available by previous arrangement.

Length Of Stay Seven nights

Location Camporsevoli was located in the southernmost part of Tuscany on the border with Umbria and Lazio in Italy. It was 80 miles (130 kilometers) or a 90-minute drive from Florence and 100 miles (160 kilometers) from Rome.

Managed Valentina Grossi Orzalesi

Owned Marchese Pierfrancesco and Marchesa Elena Grossi di Camporsevoli

Size The 5,000 square foot (460 square meter) villa was built on three levels on two-and-a half acres of cypress-shaded lawns. Common areas included living and dining rooms and kitchen on the lower level, a large entrance foyer on the center level and a family room on the third level. The five bedroom suites, each with its private bath, were distributed along all three levels.

Year Open-Renovated Le Capanne is a 17 ^th Century farmstead, fully restored and open for guests in 2006.

DÉCor The house was decorated in traditional Tuscan country style, with unpretentious and superbly comfortable rustic furniture, hand-hewn beamed ceilings and painted plastered walls throughout. All common areas floors and stairs were terracotta while the bedrooms had hardwood floors.

Lobby And Common Areas The soaring front entrance archway with glass French doors opened onto a cathedral ceiling foyer. On the opposite wall two built-in concrete credenzas flanked the door to one of the bedrooms. On the left wall, a half flight of stairs led to the upper-level bedrooms, while another went to the lower level of the house. On the right wall, an antique sideboard completed the décor.

In the living room, a large floor-to-ceiling wood-burning fireplace was framed by two large sofas covered in cabbage rose print chintz on a cream background. They sat on a pale woven rug, on either side of a rectangular coffee table. Next to the fireplace, a black wood writing desk held a parchment-shaded table lamp. Several intimate seating arrangements were scattered around the room; two occasional chairs flanked an oriental bureau holding a golden-glazed ginger jar lamp. On the far side of the living room two overstuffed armchairs covered in flame-colored velvet faced a small television set. Wall hangings were a mixture of framed watercolor landscapes and antique maps. On the façade wall, two sets of triple glass doors opened onto the flagstone terrace and the lawn beyond.

A wooden dining room set for 10 with caned seat chairs sat on a deep green rectangular rug. At the far end of the room a glass-fronted sideboard held the dining china and glassware. The long 160 square foot (15 square meter) farmhouse kitchen with its peach-colored plaster walls featured a state-of-the-art five-burner gas cook-top and large oven, an impressive array of utensils and small appliances and large dishwasher. But it was its counter-height fireplace for indoor wood grilling that immediately seduced my cook’s heart. The dining room and kitchen opened onto a thatch-shaded terrace with a round teak dining table and 10 matching chairs. We took all our meals there to make the most of the lovely country atmosphere and the stunning views. Next to the terrace, a stone staircase bordered by a lush herb garden led to the back of the house and a laundry room with a washing machine, dryer and a large folding wire rack for those who preferred sun-dried laundry. The sprawling lawn was dotted with tall cypress trees that swayed softly in the breeze, and provided shade for several teak lounge chairs randomly clustered about.

On the upper level, the family room seating area surrounded a raised-hearth fireplace and flat panel television. It included a striped peach and beige loveseat, two armchairs covered in peach and green floral chintz, and a small coffee table. Against the opposite wall an armoire held games and an assortments of art books and fiction. A round table dressed in a deep green tablecloth and four wooden dining chairs completed the room’s furnishing. From the dining area a wooden door opened to the exterior stairs of the suite’s private entrance. There were two doorways in the interior walls, one accessed a galley kitchen equipped with a four-burner cook top and oven, microwave oven and under-counter refrigerator; the other led to the foyer of the suite and the master bedroom. An interior staircase accessed the lower levels of the house.

Bathrooms Each bathroom included a floor rack holding two sets of thick white bath towels, a bidet and a water-saving commode. The bathrooms of the two lower suites (cream and green) had free-standing sinks and shower stalls. The three upper suites (yellow, peach and blue) had large marble-topped vanities and deep, roomy bathtubs as well as showers. My spacious 80 square foot (seven-and-a-half square meter) bathroom opened to the east. It was filled with sunshine and the call of birds in the nearby cypress trees to make my morning shower an idyllic start of the day.

Rooms The five bedrooms had private baths and walk-in closets (or large storage armoires, as was the case for the handicapped bedroom on the lower level and the upper level master suite). All had plaster walls painted in colors unique to each suite. Each bedroom furnishings included a luggage rack, a bureau and two occasional wooden chairs. The beds were flanked with bedside tables holding reading lamps. The lower level bedroom was cream with a deep gold bedspread and tufted headboard for its queen-size bed. On the next level, the bedroom off the foyer was pale green. Its twin beds had headboards upholstered in green and white pinstripe and pale green toile coverlets. Half a flight up from the entrance foyer, there were two bedrooms on either side of a small hallway.

One was my 425 square foot (40 square meter) master bedroom overlooking the garden and swimming pool. It had pale yellow walls that matched the yellow and mint green plaid upholstery on the headboard and coverlet of its king-size bed. Buttercup yellow throw rugs looked especially attractive against dark highly-polished wooden floors. On the opposite wall to the bed there was an antique writing desk with a matching wooden chair. My room was a cool and serene retreat to gather my thoughts after a long day of sightseeing. Across the hallway, the peach room featured twin beds with black wrought iron headboard and quilted bedspreads in a bold plaid of peach, melon and raspberry colors. The top floor pale blue master bedroom featured high vaulted ceiling, white throw rugs on dark wooden floors and twin front windows overlooking the valley. Its king-size bed had a dark wooden headboard and a white quilted bedspread dotted with blue cornflowers.

Amenities Upon arrival on a late Saturday afternoon, we were especially pleased to find the refrigerator and pantry thoughtfully stocked with all basics, including milk, bread, coffee, tea, jam, butter, rice, pasta, a jar of pasta sauce, several two-liter bottles of drinking water and even two bottles of local wine.

In addition to the generous supply of bath towels, bathroom amenities included house brand individual size soap, shampoo, conditioner and bath gel and a hand-held hairdryers in each bathroom.

Pool The rectangular swimming pool was 20 foot by 40 foot (six meter by 12 meter) with a constant depth of five feet (1.5 meters). Next to the pool a large flagstone terrace, partially shaded by a thatched roof, held six beach chairs and four directors chairs in gleaming white wood and canvas, and two teak occasional tables.

Other Because I prefer fresh country air to air-conditioning whenever possible, I was especially delighted with Le Capanne. The restoration of the property respected the original structure, including the preservation of the villa’s two-foot (60 centimeter) thick stone outer walls, and windows that provided cross-ventilation to ensure the villa remained comfortably cool at all times. Although there were floor fans in every rooms “just in case,” none were ever needed during our stay.

In addition to the owners’ warm welcome and many thoughtful attentions, Valentina, who was also the founder and manager of One Step Closer, an established luxury tour company in Florence, was available to organize or recommend out-of-the-ordinary activities for us. She arranged a private visit to Altesino, a highly regarded boutique winery in Montalcino, including a tasting luncheon of their famed Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino wines. I remember the day as one of the most enjoyable of my entire stay.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review May 2009

Reviewers Article and photos by Josette King

Service There was twice-weekly housekeeping service. The service was outstanding.

Francesco and Maria, the villa’s housekeepers couldn’t have been more pleasant. Francesco came by each day for pool and grounds maintenance. He never failed to check in with us to inquire of any request we may have.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Tuscany is famous the world over for its rich history, its artistic status as the cradle of the Renaissance, its magnificent churches and palazzos filled with stunning art and its picturesque countryside of rolling hills dotted with sun-baked medieval villages. All have contributed to making this 8,880 square mile (23,000 square kilometer) triangle of land, barely the size of New Hampshire, one of travelers’ favorite places to visit in Italy, a country that is itself one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world. While Tuscany’s regional capital, Florence, is said to lure close to ten million visitors a year, it is but one of six United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) World Heritage Sites in the region. The remaining five, also vastly popular destinations, are the historical centers of Siena, San Gimignano and Pienza as well as the square of the Cathedral of Pisa and the Val d’Orcia, a remote valley south of Siena.

With its history spanning well over two millennia, from the Etruscans whose civilization peaked during the seventh and sixth centuries BC, to the Romans to the Renaissance, Tuscany is considered one of the greatest repositories of artistic treasures in the western world. However, today Florence is most widely recognized as the symbol of Tuscany’s Renaissance, due in great part to the dominant ruling family of the period, the Medici. Their far-reaching patronage of the arts, emulated by other powerful families, created an environment where artists could mature and flourish.

Fillipo Brunelleschi’s first architectural commission, the Ospedale degli Innocenti (Hospital of the Innocents or Foundling Hospital) with the nine semi-circular arches of its loggia, set the stage for the development of a style based on classical antiquity. He went on to design such landmark churches as the Basilica di San Lorenzo , and Santo Spirito di Firenze , and his crowning glory: the dome of the Duomo , or cathedral of Florence. To date, Brunelleschi’s dome remains the largest brick and mortar dome in the world. Donatello’s bronze of David, commissioned by Cosimo the Elder de’ Medici for the courtyard of his own palace, now at the Bargello, is the sculptor’s most celebrated work and believed to be the first known nude statue created since antiquity. His work set the stage for another world-class nude David: Michelangelo’s 17 foot (5.20 meter) white Carrara marble masterpiece. Florence was also home to some of the greatest painters of the era, among them Botticelli, Masaccio, Raphael, Filippo Lippi and Leonardo da Vinci, whose masterpieces still fill the churches and museums of the city.

But there is more to Tuscany than Florence. The region abounds with medieval hill towns with their own important cultural heritage, among them Siena whose Piazza del Campo is regarded as one of the greatest medieval squares in Europe. San Giminiano is famous for its many towers that have remained intact since the thirteenth century; and picture-perfect fortified villages perched on high ridges such as Montepulciano and Pienza overlook vistas unchanged since they served as the backdrop for Renaissance paintings. Then there are the wines! While Chianti may be synonymous with Tuscany in the mind of many, and the area’s many wineries well worth a visit, for me the ultimate Tuscan wine experience is Montalcino. Located in the stark grandeur of the Val d’Orcia, this loveliest of medieval villages traces its wine making tradition back to the fourteenth century to produce the prized Brunello di Montalcino.

Faced with such a munificence of historic, artistic and natural wonders, we determined to avoid turning our Tuscan holiday into a two-week cultural marathon. We first lingered in Florence for a week, where we balanced our daily diet of museums and architectural treasures with extended antipasti pauses; and enjoyed from shaded terraces the bustle of Florentine life. We then escaped to the serenity of the Sienese countryside. With our base a peaceful country villa in a bucolic setting at the edge of the Val d’Orcia, we ventured on daily explorations of villages and wineries, and yes, the occasional museum and cathedral still. All the while making mental notes of places not to be missed… next time.

Currency Euro

Electrical Current 220 Volts

Location In central Italy, 140 miles (230 kilometers) northwest of Rome

Technology High-speed Internet connectivity was widely available. There was GSM cell phone reception wherever I went.

Time GMT/UTC plus one hour (e.g. Central European Time)

Transportation The cities and villages of Tuscany with their compact center and narrow, cobblestone streets were best visited on foot. To visit the countryside and travel between cities, although public transportation (buses and in some cases commuter trains) was available, I preferred the flexibility of renting a car.

Shopping And Souvenirs The abundance of art, antiques, ceramics, fashion and other luxury goods and wines was such that shopping was limited only by taste, budget and airline luggage allowance. In Florence, I enjoyed browsing for gold and silver jewelry on the Ponte Vecchio, and yielding to temptation at the San Lorenzo the leather market, with its bargain-priced quality purses and jackets. In gourmet shops, the celebrated local white truffles had to be coveted from afar. They commended such prices that I suspect they may soon be sold by the carat!

Tourism Highlights In Florence, there are the “guidebook musts,” and then there are my personal favorites. The “musts” were exciting to visit. They have been so often photographed and filmed they seemed familiar at first glance, and they were predictably mobbed with tourists.

Bagno Vignoni Known since Roman times for its thermal waters, Bagno Vignoni was a tiny medieval village clustered around a large rectangular pool fed from an underground aquifer of volcanic origins. The spa is said to have been attended by many eminent Renaissance personalities among them Pope Pius II, Santa Caterina da Siena and Lorenzo the Magnificent. The charming Val d’Orcia village appeared to have remained mainly unchanged since then.

Bargello Built in the mid-thirteen century as the residence of the Podestà, the highest magistrate of the Florence City Council, this small medieval fortress is the oldest public building in Florence. Later turned prison and barracks, it became a national museum in 1865. In addition to a large collection of Gothic and Renaissance sculpture (including Donetallo’s David), the Bargello featured an extensive display of glazed terracotta works by Andrea and Giovani Della Robia. I found it especially pleasant to linger along the open loggia and under the arches of the cloistered courtyard to enjoy a quiet al fresco moment right in the center of the city.

Brancacci Chapel The most memorable moment of my visit to Florence occurred in Santa Maria dell Carmine, a semi-deserted unassuming little church of the Oltrarno (the artisan neighborhood on “the other side of the Arno”). Here, in the Brancacci Chapel I was able to experience the incandescent splendor of the recently restored frescoes by Masaccio (who depicted biblical scenes using the setting and likeness of his contemporaries).

Beyond Florence

Duomo The Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore or Duomo is one of the largest churches in Italy and one of the major tourist attractions in Tuscany. The exterior is faced with white marble panels outlined in green and pink. Started in 1296 in the Gothic style, it was completed in 1436 (with the Brunelleschi dome). The façade was left bare until the nineteenth century when it acquired an elaborate Gothic Revival façade.

Gallery Of The Accademia is part of the Academy of Fine Arts. A number of Michelangelo’s statues were displayed there, including his four unfinished Prisoners, intended for the tomb of Pope Julius II, and his world-famous David. Originally set on the Piazza della Signoria , the statue of David was moved to a specially constructed gallery in the Accademia in the nineteenth century, while a copy stands in its place outside the Palazzo Vecchio . The art collection, mainly works from the Gothic and early Renaissance periods, displayed here was originally assembled to educate students.

Montalcino This charming hilltop village traces its origins to Etruscan times. Its medieval walls were erected in the thirteenth century when the city fell under Sienese control. Montalcino offered a commending view of the Val d’Orcia and its winding cypress-lined country roads. Its rolling hills were streaked to the horizon with the vineyards that produce some of Italy’s most esteemed red wines, the Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino. It was my good fortune that I was able to visit Altesino, a leading local estate. Managing Director Guido Orzalesi graciously led me on a tour of the entire production cycle from the neat rows of vines, each punctuated with a thriving rose bush (for pest control), to the state-of-the-art aging cellars and bottling operation. A memorable tasting of Altesino’s prized vintages concluded the visit.

Museum Of San Marco This twelfth century Dominican monastery was restored by Cosimo the Elder de’ Medici in 1440, who entrusted the work to his favorite architect Michelozzo. With its elegant cloister and spacious sun-filled library, the building offered a superb example of Renaissance conventual architecture, which was further enhanced by the perfectly preserved frescoes of Fra’ Angelico that decorated the cloister, refectory and the brothers’ cells. Additionally, the library contained a stunning collection of elaborately illuminated manuscripts.

Piazza Della Signoria And Palazzo Vecchio The Palazzo Vecchio has been the political center of the city since medieval times. It opens on the Piazza della Signoria, which remains to this day one of Florence’s most famous and busiest squares. The visit of the Palazzo Vecchio included the soberly elegant private apartments as well as the internal courtyard and the grand public rooms with their elaborately frescoed walls and ceilings to give an interesting insight into the life of Renaissance aristocracy.

My personal favorites included these less frequented gems:

San&Rsquo; Antimo Abbey Another Val d’Orcia jewel, San’ Antimo was built in early the early twelfth century in a remote pastoral setting of ancient cypress and olive trees. It is reputed to be one of the most beautiful Romanesque churches in Italy. It certainly is one of the most beautiful and best-preserved ones I have ever seen.

Cost of visiting For American travelers, with the exchange rate of the dollar versus the euro at an all-time low, prices were generally expensive.

Uffizi Gallery Built in the mid-sixteenth century for Cosimo I de’ Medici to house magistrates, administrative offices and the state archives, the Palazzo degli Uffizi (Italian for offices) was located between the Arno and the Palazzo Vecchio . The third floor held a mind-boggling collection illustrating the evolution of Italian art, displayed chronologically from Gothic to late Renaissance and beyond, in rooms opening onto a large gallery running the length of the building. The gallery was lined with antique marble statues. It also offered a superb view of the Ponte Vecchio and the Arno. The rooftop terrace coffee shop had a close up view of the tower of the Palazzo Vecchio and the dome of the Duomo.

Siena This classic medieval hill town is best known for its unique shell-shaped Piazza del Campo dominated by its Gothic town hall, the imposing Palazzo Publico . But beautifully preserved reminders of its thirteenth century grandeur, when it was one of the wealthiest cities in Europe, could be found everywhere along its steep, narrow streets. Perched high on a hill, the Siena Duomo was a beautiful gothic cathedral with an intricately carved marble façade. The interior was equally striking with the walls and high pillars of the nave clad in black and white marble stripes, and rising to a vaulted roof decorated with golden stars on an indigo sky. The adjoining Piccolomini library was filled with lavishly illuminated choir manuscripts. Its walls and vaulted ceiling were covered with striking frescoes by Pinturicchio. Also , the house of Caterina Benincasa who became Santa Caterina, the patron saint of Italy, was well worth a visit. Although it had undergone many modifications since her death in 1380, it remained a serene place with a lovely loggia and brick-lined courtyard.

Date Of Last Visit May 2009

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Would You Visit Again? Yes