Overall Impression Widely recognized for over a century as one of the crown jewels of the much-vaunted Amalfi coast, the Santa Caterina Hotel has consistently garnered so many accolades from the travel press, industry rating organization and its own delighted guests that I approached it with the highest of expectations. All of which were surpassed by the time I was ushered into my suite.

The property was stunning. Built into a rock face rising from the Tyrrhenian Sea, it was a series of terraced citrus groves and lush gardens that started along Almalfi Drive to cascade down a 60 meters (200 feet) vertical drop, all the way to the water’s edge with its salt water swimming pool and private beach (with elevators as well as stairs to circulate between levels). The hotel was a striking classic Mediterranean-style villa, with vaulted ceilings and light-filled open spaces turned toward the Gulf of Salerno. All the common areas as well as my own suite had pale Vietri Majolica tile floors enhanced by hand-painted floral motives. The white walls and ceilings provided an understated backdrop for the antique furniture and artworks interspersed throughout. Everywhere, the walls facing the sea were lined with arched French doors opening onto serene terraces with panoramic views of the sea and sky melting into a bright blue horizon.

I loved the refined elegance of my suite with its soaring ceilings, lovely antique accents and full height glass wall that opened onto a verdant oversized terrace; and the miles of rich fuchsia Pierre Frey heavy silk taffeta that draped the sleeping area and glass outer wall. Then there was the glorious bathroom. With its vaulted frosted glass ceiling, a Majolica seascape fresco above the oversized circular Jacuzzi bathtub and lavish toiletries, it had the allure of a private spa.

But beyond the breathtaking natural surroundings and the refined elegance of the décor, what made the Santa Caterina truly unique was its home-like atmosphere and the excellence of its service. “This is our family home, our daily life,” explained Giuseppina (Giusi) Gambardella, owner of the property with her sister Carmela, “it has been for four generations. The furniture is our own family’s antiques. And we personally oversee every detail of the decoration.” I mentioned how impressed I was with the service. Giusi’s face lit up. “Our staff are a part of the family. The Santa Caterina is their life also. Our general manager has been with us for 35 years. He is a personal friend. Others have been with us for two or more generations.” She pointed out the young bellman who had impressed me with his impeccable efficiency and friendliness at check-in time, “his father was with us also, until he recently retired.”

Guests are equally faithful to the Santa Caterina. They come back year after year, and generation after generation. “People who honeymooned here return with their children, and their grandchildren,” Giusi confided. I asked about VIP and celebrity guests. It is after all public knowledge that it was at the Santa Caterina that Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton began their turbulent relationship in the early 1960s during the filming of Cleopatra, and Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt are rumored to have begun their own romance there. But Giusi demured: “all our guests are VIPs to us, and we strictly respect everyone’s privacy equally.” Taking in the late afternoon bustle in the lobby, and every member of the staff attentive and friendly but never overly familiar, I understood the unique strength of the Santa Caterina: the personal commitment of its devoted management and staff to uphold their long tradition of superb hospitably; and the blazing autumn dipping into the Tyrrhenian Sea.

With its exquisite accommodations, warm family atmosphere, flawless service and privileged location in one of the most spectacular spots of the Mediterranean basin, the Santa Caterina Hotel did not merely make my short list of places to revisit or recommend to friends traveling to the area. It propelled itself to my personal list of ‘five favorite places on the planet.’”

Children Welcome Yes

Class Of Accommodation Five star luxury hotel

Concierge Franco Cavalieri

Connectivity There was full mobile phone reception and reliable complimentary high speed WiFi in my suite and in the common areas, an especially notable feat considering the challenging multi-level topography and rock construction of the property.

General Manager Armando Di Palma

Handicapped Access Some rooms were suitable for motion-impaired guests. However, due the cliffside location, some areas of the hotel were not wheel chair accessible.

Hotel Manager Andrew Camera

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location In Amalfi, on the Gulf of Salerno, in the Campania region of southwestern Italy. Naples was 50 kilometers (30 miles) to the north, with Naples Airport a 90-minute drive from the property.

Owned-Managed The Gambardella family has owned and managed the property for four generations.

Pets Allowed No

Size The property had 66 guest rooms, including 29 suites. It employed a staff of 120 including 41 restaurant personnel.

Year Opened-Renovated Giuseppe Gambardella constructed the original structure as a private villa in 1880. In 1904, his son Crescenzo redesigned the property and created the original six guestrooms. The next two generations of Gambardellas gradually brought it to its present standing. The latest renovation was in 2010.

Lobby And Common Areas The entire property was designed to make the most of its exceptional surroundings. All interior spaces other than the lobby had a southern orientation facing the sea. Walls of oversized picture windows and French doors opened onto terraces to take advantage of every instant of daylight. The Majolica-tiled floors dotted with hand-painted patches of flowers and arched ceilings enhanced by streams of climbing ivy completed the tranquil indoor-outdoor feel, while antique furniture and original artworks gave the space a mellow inviting atmosphere. The spacious lobby set the tone with gracious sitting arrangements upholstered in shades of cinnabar and gold scattered along the walls, most notably a bergère sofa paired with pie-crust top occasional tables and a carved-back art nouveau settee near a display armoire that held a collection of delicate period porcelains. A long mahogany reception desk occupied the rear of the room.

Bouquets of fresh flowers and cascading green plants enhanced the lived-in feel. The lounge occupied the right half of the property facing the sea, with the dining room to its left. A curved sandstone bar separated the two areas. In the lounge, twin 19th century mahogany sofas upholstered in Pierre Frey jacquard in various shades of green were lined against the interior wall. Mahogany pedestal occasional tables held posies of fresh flowers. A fine collection of watercolors and etchings of the area hung behind the sofas. Along the glassed-in exterior wall, groupings of overstuffed rolled arm sofas upholstered in white damask and matching armchairs were arranged around small tea tables. Translucent white curtain panels gently filtered the southern light. Bright green toss pillows and exuberant green plants completed the décor to give the space the feel of a country garden room.

On a lower level, a covered terrace overhanging the water was carved into the cliff. Its white-plastered pillars were covered with a jumble of blooming purple bougainvillea. The terrace was furnished with teak armchairs with ecru canvas cushions clustered around circular coffee tables draped in matching cloth under heavy plate glass tops. Throughout the property wrought iron bistro chairs were randomly lined along the fieldstone paths that meandered along the citrus groves.

Bathroom The bathroom was remarkable for its size (11.5 square meters or 125 square feet) as well as it superb fixtures and elegant décor. Its vaulted ceiling was lined with backlit unpolished glass. The floor and lower part of the walls were covered in rose ceramic, as was the extra long vanity top. The built-in dual sinks, bidet, commode and circular corner Jacuzzi were of white porcelain. The large recessed shower with high-pressure rain showerhead was tiled in deep rose mosaic. A wall-size mirror hung above the vanity. The walls above the Jacuzzi were covered with a hand painted tile panorama that represented a wisteria-shaded patio overlooking a Mediterranean seascape. Next to it, a heated towel rack with a generous supply of oversized bath towels hung on the plastered wall.

Room My 45 square meter (455 square foot) light-filled suite, Number 87, was located two levels below the main common areas. The white plastered walls and high vaulted ceilings, and pale grey tile floor decorated with clusters of wisteria in the foyer and living area provided an understated setting for the striking floor to ceiling fuchsia silk draperies which separated the living and sleeping areas. In the foyer, an antique vanity table with a marble top and carved rectangular mirror held a large fresh flower arrangement in shades of hot pinks and mauves, coordinated to the overall color scheme. The living area occupied the front of the suite. A pair of oversized double sliding doors opened onto the terrace. Living room furniture included a mahogany key hole desk and Queen Anne desk chair, a tall chest that served as a base for a large LCD television screen, and against the rough field stone far wall, a rolled arm sofa covered in white canvas. In front of the sofa, a gilded rectangular Queen Anne coffee table held a bowl of fresh fruit and a plate of freshly baked cookies. The toss pillows on the sofa, desk chair seat and draperies tiebacks were covered in heavy cotton jacquard in shades of fuchsia and jade in a striped Bargello-like design on a cream background.

To the right of the living area, a door leading to a walk-in dressing room was painted with a bright mural of a whimsical flower garden reminiscent of the 19th century Nabis (French post-impressionist) style. In the sleeping area, the king-size headboard and accent pillows were upholstered in similar Bargello design as the living room accents. A large seascape watercolor in a gilded frame hung above it. There were spindle leg two-drawer bedside tables on both sides of the bed. Throughout the suite, gilded bronze wall sconces with silk half-drum shades provided lighting. The vast (32 square meters or 345 square feet) garden-like private terrace had a large square table tiled in a grapevine design and two teak armchairs. There were also two comfortable folding teak and bright blue canvas lounge chairs. However, the best feature of the terrace was the intoxicating sea view that extended to the faint outline of the far side of the Gulf of Salerno melting into the horizon.

Food And Restaurants The property had a number of dining options, starting with a sumptuous breakfast buffet served it its formal Santa Caterina restaurant. Lunch and dinner were also served there. See separate review. Additionally, from May to October, a full luncheon menu was served at Al Mare, a covered patio overlooking the pool. During the day, the poolside Beach Club bar offered a variety of sandwiches and appetizers as well as smoothies and bar drinks.

Amenities Room amenities included a welcome bottle of chilled Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine), fresh fruit basket, fresh flower arrangement, electronic safe, CD and DVD player, and a selection of daily newspapers in Italian, English, French and German on demand. Bathroom amenities included bathrobes and slippers, magnifying mirror, two hairdryers (wall-hung and hand-held), bathroom scale, facial tissues, cotton pads and swabs, nail file, feminine hygiene gel, disposable razor and shaving cream. Toiletries were Thé Blanc by Bvlgari in individual sizes of hand-milled soap, bath salt, bath gel and shampoo, hair conditioner and body lotion.

Facilities There were two restaurants, the Santa Caterina and Al Mare, a lounge, two bars, La Terrazza and the Beach Club, spa and fitness center, swimming pool, conference facility and a basic business center

Fitness Center And Spa A fitness center and spa were located on one of the lower levels of the property. In addition to fitness equipment, the health club included a sauna and steam room. The spa had two private treatment rooms where it offered a menu of massages, facials and body treatments.

Pool Set in a concrete terrace at the base of the cliff, the seawater pool was three meters wide by 18 meters long (10 by 60 feet) with depths ranging from 1.10 to 2.20 meters (or 3.6 to 7.2 feet). From there, six steps let down to a lower terrace with a few more steps ending in the water for easy sea bathing. Both terraces were lined with teak lounge chairs separated by small side tables and shaded by white canvas umbrellas. Pool assistants were always on hand with fresh towels.

Cleanliness Excellent. The attention to detail on the part of the household staff was remarkable. Not only was my suite immaculate at all times (as were all the common areas) but I was amazed to realize that, as the stargazer lilies in my flower arrangement gradually opened, the household staff was routinely clipping off the emerging yellow pollen anthers (known to be allergenic to some people).

Date Of Review October 2012

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service My room was serviced twice daily. Every member of the staff with whom I came in contact during my stay was thoughtful and attentive to my preferences, and delivered superb personalized service.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Art Deco? That was the last thing that would have come to my mind when thinking of Rome, until my most recent visit to the Eternal City. It was for its location rather than its design that the Hotel Mediterraneo first caught my attention. I was to arrive by train for a three-day stopover between two legs of an extended tour of the region, with no other plans than just being in Rome, to wander around and soak up the atmosphere. The Mediterraneo was 250 meters (820 feet) from Stazione di Roma Termini, the main railway station and public transportation hub in the city; and within reasonable walking distance from the most popular landmarks including Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica, the Coliseum, Forum, Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona, Via Veneto and the Piazza di Spania (and its famous Spanish Steps). The location seemed ideal for my purpose, and it proved to be. But it was the grand, impeccably preserved Art Deco property itself that made my short stay in Rome a memorable experience.

Designed in 1936 by Mario Loreti, a foremost Italian architect of the era, and completed in 1942, it is considered one of the finest examples of Art Deco architecture and rationalist design in Rome. From the moment I entered the lobby with its exotic woods paneling and soaring polished marble columns flanked by busts of Roman emperors, I felt transported into a glamorous 1930s movie set. I would not have been overly surprised to see Fred Astaire materialize at the top of the imposing marble staircase. The Mediterraneo maintained its Art Deco persona throughout its monumental public areas. In the lounge, a parchment map of an ancient perspective of the Mediterranean Sea occupied an entire wall, while the opposite one was covered with an intricate marquetry mural of an allegorical scene. In the dining room, an exquisite wall-size tapestry-like mosaic evoked a medieval hunt. However, the most unique feature of the property was the Roof Garden Restaurant and Terrace. Built high on the Esquiline Hill, the highest of Rome’s seven hills, the ten-story, 50 meter (165 foot) high Mediterraneo was the tallest building in the center of the city. Its spectacular view swept across the rooftops, from the twin domes of nearby Santa Maria Maggiore all the way across town to San Pietro in Vaticano (San Peter). It was my favorite spot to linger, especially at dusk when far above the bustle of the city, I could sip a Spritz (local cocktail made of dry white wine, sparking water and bitter Aperol) while watching the sun set over the Vatican.

In pleasing contrast with the majestic and somewhat austere public spaces characteristic of the Art Deco style, my suite was a cozy urban retreat I looked forward to return to after a day of roaming around the city. While the original elaborate woodworks, built-in furniture and sober décor had been meticulously preserved, the suite had modern amenities, including double glazed windows and electric shutters, individually controlled air-conditioning, large widescreen television and contemporary marble-clad bathroom.

I liked the location of the Hotel Mediterraneo, in a lived-in neighborhood with easy access to the major touristic sites of the city, and its distinctive old world atmosphere. And best of all, I enjoyed the elegance and comfort of my light-filled suite, a relaxing home away from home that I will keep in mind for future visits to Rome.

Children The Mediterraneo welcomed children of all ages.

Class Of Accommodation Four star hotel

Concierge Eugenio Bungaro

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi in my suite and throughout the common areas. Connectivity was reliable in the common areas but erratic in my suite.

Handicapped Access Yes

Hotel Manager Claudio Garbo

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location Conveniently located in the center of Rome, the Mediteranneo was within reasonable walking distance from most of the popular monuments in the city. It was also a five-minute walk to the Termini central train station, bus terminal and subway, making it especially easy to get around via public transportation. For air travelers, the train shuttle between the Leonardo da Vinci/Fiumicino airport and the center of the city was also a few steps from the hotel.

Owned / managed Bettoja Hotels, one of the oldest and largest family-owned hotel groups in Italy for five generations. Chairman was Angelo Bettoja.

Pets Allowed Yes

Size The ten-story property had 251 rooms including seven executive suites and five junior suites. It employed a staff of 60.

Year Opened-Renovated Following a four-year construction effort, the property opened in 1942. It was the object of on-going meticulous renovations and upkeep to preserve its original Art Deco character.

Lobby And Common Areas Beautifully preserved in their original 1930s style, the common areas had the monumental proportions and slick design of those times. Highly polished taupe marble and precious woods dominated the décor. Cut crystal and bronze sconces and bowl chandeliers provided the lighting, while daylight streamed from tall windows. In the lobby, the wood-paneled reception desk topped in cocoa marble occupied the entire side wall. Above it, a geometric wood frame interspersed with hammered brass inlays held rectangular opaque glass panels. On the opposite side of the lobby, period elevators were flanked by half-flights of marble stairs leading to the lounge, bar and restaurants. In the lounge, plush burgundy carpeting and curvaceous armchairs upholstered in crimson, jade and mauve textured velvets added warmth to the décor. In a corner, built into a wall of white-veined taupe marble, the concave wood-paneled fireplace had an intricate marquetry awning. The hearth was outlined in deep green marble. On both sides of the fireplace, busts of Roman emperors stood under tall bronze sconces. In the next room, the semi-circular bar with its rich golden alabaster countertop was surrounded by hunter green leather barstools with gleaming brass footrests. Around wooden spindle-leg tables, black leather armchairs with lacquered bentwood armrests offered more intimate seating.

Bathroom Mercifully, at the Mediterraneo, the exacting attention to early 20 century authenticity stopped at the door to the bathroom. Here the floor, walls and vanity top were contemporary polished travertine marble. And the latest high-end white porcelain fixtures prevailed, including commode, bidet, built-in sink and oversize bathtub with in-tub adjustable height or hand-held showerhead and a swinging glass panel to contain the water within the tub. There was a wall size mirror above the vanity. Lighting was recessed in the ceiling.

Room Located on the ninth floor of the ten-story property, and graced with a southwestern orientation, my sun-filled 34 square meter (365 square foot) junior suite, Number 916, had an exceptional view of the city. The suite consisted of three cozy rooms laid out in enfilade, starting with the corner sitting room. The bedroom was in the center, followed by the dressing room and bath. There were burgundy carpeting and cream-glazed walls throughout. All upholstered pieces as well as the king size bed skirt and quilted coverlet were olive green textured velvet. The four tall windows had heavy floor-to-ceiling taffeta draperies in broad aubergine, olive and mauve stripes, trimmed with green fringe that matched the tasseled tieback ropes. Brass sconces with silk shades provided the lighting. In the sitting room, a Parsons-style sofa stood in a shallow mirrored alcove, with two matching barrel armchairs, a rectangular mahogany coffee table and a side table holding a flowered china lamp completing the sitting arrangement.

The most notable features of the room were the original built-in writing desk, bookcases and drawers fitted between the windows of the exterior walls. A grouping of framed etchings of ancient Roman monuments hung on the wall. In both the sitting room and bedroom, a large widescreen television sat on a metal and glass credenza in front of the window. In addition to the king size bed flanked by two round wood and glass side tables, bedroom furniture included a dressing table and chair in a mirrored alcove, recessed shelving above a built-in cabinet that concealed a mini-bar, and on the exterior wall, on both sides of the window, built-in storage drawers and shelves that matched those in the sitting room. A set of framed contemporary prints of harlequins added a whimsical touch. Other than the addition of a contemporary suite hanger and trouser press, the dressing room had fully retained its Art Deco personality with a kidney-shaped mirrored-top brass dressing table skirted in jade silk, black lacquered and brass chair and free-form wall hung mirror. The entire back wall was a paneled mahogany armoire made to accommodate the traveling wardrobe of a bygone era.

Food And Restaurants The day began at the Sala Taverna breakfast room on the ground floor of the property with an abundant buffet of fresh fruit, cereals, breads, freshly baked croissants and breakfast cakes, assorted yoghurts, boiled eggs, sliced cheeses and cold cuts. The room décor was reminiscent of an ancient tavern with a nautical theme. Carved corbels representing mermaid and tritons figureheads held heavy ceiling beams and wrought iron wall sconces and overhead light fixtures had a similar mermaid and triton ornamentation.

Also on the ground floor were the Lobby Bar and Ristorante 21, a small formal restaurant that served gourmet Italian cuisine for lunch and dinner. Its back wall was covered with a stunning mosaic fresco of a hunting scene. My personal favorite spot for cocktails and dinner was the lovely Roof Garden Restaurant and Bar and its glorious terrace with a panoramic view of the city. Day or night, the glassed-in dining room with its flowered chintz drapes, white painted armchairs and tables clad in cinnabar floor-length cloths with white linen overlays felt like a romantic sky-high garden room. The menu was a mix of Roman and international dishes. I especially enjoyed the bresaola appetizer, a carpaccio of aged air-dried beef served on a bed of peppery arugula with a balsamic reduction, a portion so generous that it could have been a light entrée. The fresh pasta with garlicky sautéed shrimp and zucchini that followed was equally delicious. In brief, everything that my friend and I sampled there was beautifully prepared from the freshest ingredients and made for a pleasing dining experience. In addition to hotel guests, the Roof Garden welcomed local diners for lunch and dinner. It was a popular place where reservations were strongly recommended.

Amenities In room amenities included an electric kettle with tea and coffee service, bottled mineral water, a generous welcome fruit basket, electronic safe, sewing kit, shoe horn and shoe polish sponge and a trouser press. Bathroom amenities included bathrobes and slippers, magnifying mirror, hairdryer, bathroom scale, facial tissues, cotton pads and swabs, fingernail file, oral hygiene kit and shower cap. Individual house brand toiletries of shampoo, shower gel, facial cleanser, bath salts and body moisturizing lotion.

Facilities There were three restaurants, a bar, a basic business center and a fitness room.

Fitness Center And Spa There was a small fitness center with basic exercise equipment.

Conference Facilities The Hotel Mediterraneo could accommodate up to 150 in four conference rooms.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review October 2012

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service The room was serviced daily. Every member of the staff I encountered during my stay was professional and efficient.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Although we were only scheduled to remain on the island of Ischia, known for its beautiful vistas as well as its thermal waters and spa offerings, for three nights we had set aside some time for treatments. The spa was conveniently located between our building and reception at our hotel. Just after breakfast we met with Constanza Popolano, Msc., the very busy spa manager, and Paolo Magrassi, M.D., the spa’s United States trained medical director. A man of subtle charm and a passion for travel to exotic locales he made time to tell us about the spa’s thermal waters and mud and the menu options available to visitors. Although the spa was undergoing renovations while we were there, we were fortunate to find treatment time available.

The thermal waters and mud of Ischia, supplied by a number of springs, were reputed for their healthy properties. The springs that fed our spa were monitored closely by the spa’s medical staff. They were also under the supervision of the Italian Ministry of Health. The marine mud applied during the treatments was placed in huge outdoor pools to bake under the sun and kept continuously immersed in specially selected running thermal water for a year. While it was unknown exactly how this mud worked on the body the medical benefits seemed clear, Dr. Magrassi told us that morning. The executive staff at the spa believed that the slow solar and thermal water curation transformed the mud or clay, causing it to become rich in organic compounds that in turn are believed to have healing properties such as stimulation of the immune system.

The 3,500 square meter spa was spacious, brightly lit and quiet. One area had wide empty corridors with treatment rooms of varying types on either side. The serious and sterile clean ambiance inspired confidence and reminded us of a health care facility. In fact, some treatments required a medical consult while the beauty and relaxation menu options could be easily booked without seeing a doctor. My treatments with thermal water and clay and my facial required medical consults with two staff physicians.

We liked the spacious and efficiently run spa for its well appointed facilities and the variety of treatment options on offer, especially the mud treatments. We look forward to a return visit when the spa facility upgrades have been completed.

General Manager Costanza Popolano Msc.

Handicapped Access Yes, for patients with orthopedic and neurological disorders.

Location In the hotel by the same name in the village of Lacco Ameno on the island of Ischia on the Amalfi Coast of Italy about one hour by hydrofoil from Naples.

Medical Director Paolo Magrassi, M.D., a native of Brescia the doctor trained at New York University, Montreal and Harvard medical schools. The physician had lived in Brazil for four years and traveled widely to Cambodia and Vietnam in the Far East as well as Congo, Angola and Sierra Leone in Africa.

Number Of Staff 45

Owned And Managed Partenhotels srl.

Size There were 60 treatment rooms in the two-story 3,500 square meter facility.

Special Training Staff members had received training in Fondo Impresa, Yamuna Body Rolling, Watsu, LPG Endermologie, Ultrashape and Intraceuticals.

Year Opened-Renovated The spa was established in 1956. The most recent renovation was taking place while we visited the spa.

Common Areas The décor was 1950s Mediterranean style.

Amenities There were house brand Terme della Regina Isabella toiletries, slippers, bathrobes and mud treatment slips.

Facilities There was a fitness room, two indoor pools including a chromotherapy pool, two outdoor pools (part of the hotel facilities), a sauna, a hammam, a hydrokinesis therapy pool, two Kneipp Water Paths, 60 treatment rooms and four medical offices. There were treatment rooms with massage beds, tatami mats and sometimes expensive equipment behind white wood and glass doors in the spotless brightly lit corridors.

Pool There were two indoor pools including a chromotherapy pool and two outdoor pools (part of the hotel facilities).

Other Due to renovations, the day we arrived the spa was closed and the following day it was closed in the afternoon. The spa was selected number four in the 2008 Conde Nast Traveller World Medical and Thermal Spas. The spa followed the guidelines of the Society of Medical Hydrology and Italian Ministry of Healthy.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review April 2010

Number Of Treatments Four

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Would You Return? Yes

Treatments Experienced I visited the spa twice during our stay in Ischia for a Complete Facial Cleansing, a mud treatment with thermal bath and circulatory massage which required consultation with a physician; as well as a Remodeling Massage with Regina Isabella Mud and an Indo-Asian Mixed technique Massage neither of which required consultation with a physician. My first medical consult was 10 minutes long with M.A. Granieri, M.D. in Italian. She approved the therapeutic thermal mud with thermal shower (requiring medical visit) and the therapeutic thermal bath with ozone (requiring medical visit) followed in the same room by a circulatory massage. The following day, after a second medical consultation, with a dermatology specialist, I had a Medical Estethologist and Basic Skin Check-up.

Once M.A. Granieri, M.D. approved me for a mud treatment (there are a number of contraindications for mud treatments) she escorted me from her office a few steps away to the treatment area where I met Anna, a stout blonde middle aged woman with a warm demeanor and a limited English vocabulary. Thanks to her English and my basic Italian we were able to communicate. Anna led me to a two-room area and presented me with plastic wrapped disposable panties and a shower cap. The doors in both rooms remained partially open during the entire session. Moments later I was laying down with warm thermal mud on my shoulders, back, arms and knees wrapped in a plastic sheet under a blanket. After what seemed only a few minutes a timer buzzed and Anna returned. She led me to an enclosed shower area with wooden floor slats where she washed off the mud with a hand held shower hose with a strong jet pulsing out. Once she was satisfied the mud was gone she instructed me to climb into an adjacent rectangular bathtub with an ergonomically designed interior filled with tepid thermal water. Once I was seated she turned on the jets and water began rushing out on either end of the tub. I lay there for what seemed another 20 minutes before the fast moving water jets stopped. As I exited the tub she handed me an oversized warm and crisp white towel to dry myself and a dry set of disposable panties. We went to the adjacent massage room. After making sure I was comfortably settled under a dry and warm large towel she left. Two minutes later a thin therapist with short brown hair, Lucia, entered and asked how I was. I was well I told her. As soon as I confirmed I was well she pulled out a small bottle of body oil and began massaging my left leg while I lay face up. She dedicated the next hour to briskly massaging my legs, arms, belly, parts of my chest, shoulders and back. When she finished she announced softly that I was invited to relax five minutes before leaving. I felt invigorated the rest of the afternoon.

Saturday morning I returned to the spa. I started with a dermatological consultation with Dott.ssa Mariella Scotto di Santolo in Italian. We chatted for a few minutes before she examined my face (after gently cleansing it to remove remnants of that morning’s moisturizing facial cream) with a magnifying glass and bright light (the specialized machine that provided details of guest skin was out of order) and a probe to determine the level of sensitivity of my skin (low). She made some recommendations in writing and we said our farewells as she walked me out to meet with Francesca, a therapist who was in charge of my Remodeling Massage with Regina Isabella Mud and facial. Francesca, who spoke halting English, provided me with disposable panties and a hair bonnet before briefly exiting the treatment room. While I lay, first on my back and then on my stomach she vigorously rubbed room temperature mud over my legs, arms, and stomach. When she was done she let me sit wrapped in paper and covered with a towel for a few minutes before inviting me to shower off the mud in the en suite shower. Once I was dry we moved to another treatment room with a curved chair convenient for facial treatments. Francesca explained in mildly accented English that I should remove my bathrobe and lay on the chair. She covered me with a warm towel and began by gently cleaning my face. After using an electric brush she turned on the steam to open my pores. She applied a moisturizing cream with vitamin C and massaged it into the skin. Deep pore cleansing with the help of tissue to minimize skin damage was followed by mild zapping to prevent infection. After that she applied a mud mask on my face (and a moisturizing cream on my eye lids) which she left on for ten minutes. She completed the facial with a moisturizing cream. The mud, she explained, would nourish my skin. Although the facial left my skin feeling soft and bright the cream she applied to my eyes left them irritated and tearing for several hours.

After the facial she introduced me to Fazal, a Pakistani therapist who had learned massage therapy from his grandmother and did his work, he explained, “from the heart.” Most massage therapists uncover only the part of the body they are working on at any given moment. During the Indo-Asian Massage the towel remained off during almost the entire massage session.

Although I had understood this type of massage was rather painful, it was only mildly so. The massage was vigorous with only mild to medium pressure and most of the emphasis on the legs. I walked away with the impression he took it easy on me and that perhaps that type of massage was ideal for men because of the emphasis on the legs.

Overall Impression Il Comandante (The Commander) was named in honor of Achille Lauro, a Neapolitan shipowner and past mayor of Naples who was a previous owner of the building where the hotel restaurant is housed. Dinner at Il Comandante was a delightful surprise. The staff were polite and thoughtful and the service was punctilious.

Although we dined in a temporary venue (the restaurant’s space was being renovated) the dinner service was fine including lovely plates, silverware, glassware and perfectly ironed linen napkins. Four white orchids added a touch of elegance to our table.

What was truly memorable was the food itself. From beginning to end Chef Andrea Aprea’s Tasting Menu dishes were refined, artistically presented and delicious. If traveling in southern Italy I would detour to Naples just to dine at Il Comandante.

About The Executive Chef Before joining Il Comandante, the 31 year old native of Naples was head chef at the Ristorante Signori in Sirmione (Lake Garda). Prior to that he worked in England in Bray on Thames, at The Fat Duck Heston Blumenthal and at The Waterside Inn Michel Roux.

In Italy, he had worked at the Rossellinis in Ravello as sous chef de cuisine, the Bulgari Hotel & Resort in Milan as chef saucier, Hotel Villa San Michele in Fiesole as garde manager chef and the Grand Hotel et de Milan as chef saucier. Chef Aprea had also been chef entremetier at Toto & San Frediano in London, head chef at Restaurant Mcities Live in Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia and chef saucier at L’Artista in London.

Chef De Cuisine Ciro Petrone

Executive Chef Andrea Aprea

Handicapped Access Yes, there was a ramp and an elevator in the building.

Head Sommelier Francesco Palma

Location Within the Romeo Hotel in Naples, Italy.

Opened-Renovated The restaurant opened December 2008. Due to renovations it was temporarily housed on the ground floor of the hotel when we dined there.

Owned And Managed Romeo Alberghi S.r.l.

Restaurant Manager Vincenzo Murolo

Size When it reopens in its permanent space (expected to be in late 2010) the restaurant should have 200 square meters of dining space, 150 square meters inside, and 50 square meters outside; and be able to accommodate 45 guests inside and 16 outside. Fourteen staff, seven in the dining room and seven in the kitchen, worked at the restaurant.

Type Of Restaurant In line with the spirit of the hotel, the cuisine at Il Comandante was designed to be a “blend of flavours and suggestions” inspired by the land and its rich culinary tradition presented in a contemporary style.

DÉCor-Ambiance Chinaware was by Hering, Jl Coquet and Sieger by Fuerstenberg; silverware was by Robbe & Berking and Christofle and the crystal was by Riedel.

Meal We began with a delicious fish and cauliflower “hamburger” pre-appetizer. To accompany our meal there was a selection of breads including onion, whole wheat, pecorino and break sticks and a monocultivar olive oil from northern Italy.

For the meal proper we sampled the chef’s Tasting Menu: Mackerel millefeuille, burrata cheese, “soft and crisp” lima beans and compote of Tropea onions; Roll of milk leaf, buffalo mozzarella, tomato dressing and basil pesto (a favorite); Zucchini cream, zucchini blossoms and salt ricotta cheese; Carnaroli rice, lemon, rosemary and roasted langoustines; and Fillet of turbot, chicory hearts, violet potatoes and light sauce of anchovies. For dessert there were Strawberries, white chocolate, olive oil biscuit and pistachio. The meal was accompanied with Fiano Donnaluna “De Concilis” and Chateau d’Arche Gran Cru Classé 2001 Sauternes.

Special Menus The restaurant offered two six-course seasonal menus, a Land Menu for € 90 and Sea Menu € 100, both excluding beverages.

Cellars Wine And Alcoholic Beverage Selection In addition to 700 fine wine labels including 2,200 bottles, the restaurant had 45 labels of alcoholic beverages such as grappa, brandy, cognac, armagnac, calvados, whisky, and rum. For example, there were 30-year old Mcallan and 36-year old Glengory Royal whiskies; 1979 La mauny and 1976 St Clement 1976 rum from the French Caribbean; Louis XIII and Richard Hennessy cognac; 1964 Laberdolive Domain de Juarrey Armagnac; 1990 Marc de Bourgogne Romanée Conti and 1986 Fine de Bourgogne Romanée Conti brandies.

Among the wines there were 162 Italian whites, 188 Italian reds, 14 Italian sweet wines, 98 French whites, 170 French reds, 8 French sweet wines, 68 red and white wines from Chile, Canada, and New Zealand. Noteworthy bottles: Domaine Krug Millèsimè 1995, Domaine Armand De Brignac Brut Gold Prestige, Domaine Louis Roederer Cristal Brut Rosé 2000, Domaine Salon Les Mesnil Brut Blanc de Blanc 1997, Gaja & Rey Angelo Gaja 2004 to 2006, Riserva Biondi Santi Bunello di Montalcino 1998 and 1999, Ornellaia Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2000 to 2004, Solaia Marchesi Antinori 1997, Sassicaia Tenuta San Guido 2005, Domaine La Romanèe Conti La Tâche Grand Cru 2000 to 2004, Domaine La Romanèe Conti Richebourg Grand Cru 2001 to 2004, Domaine La Romanèe Conti Échezeaux Grand Cru 2004, Château Margaux Le Grand Cru Classè 1996 to 1998, Château Ausone 1e Grand Cru Classé A 1998 to 2001, Château Cheval Blanc 1e Grand Cru Classé A 2000, Château Mouton-Rothschild 1e Grand Cru Classé 1995 to 2000, Château Latour 1e Grand Cru Classé 1995 to 2000, Château Lafite-Rothschild 1e Grand Cru Classé 2000 to 2005, Château Le Pin 1997 to 2001 and Château Petrus 2001 and 2003.

Other The restaurant was listed in Guida l’Espresso Ristoranti D’Italia 2010 with a score of 16 out of a maximum of 20 and recommended as best gourmet restaurant in Naples and among the top four in the Campania region.

Date Of Review April 2010

Number Of Visits One

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Service The service was outstanding. Staff were efficient, polite and helpful.

Would You Dine There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression The departure point to Ischia was so close to our Naples hotel that we walked there with our luggage. We arrived on the northwestern corner of the island of Ischia on a cool and sunny spring day following an hour long ride in an air conditioned and comfortable hydrofoil boat that departed from the port in Naples. As soon as we descended from the boat in Ischia we saw a representative from our hotel holding a sign with our names. With his help we wheeled our luggage to his air conditioned van for the five-minute drive to our home of the next three nights, L’Albergo della Regina Isabella.

What I remember best and liked most at the lovingly maintained bayside hotel in Lacco Ameno, the smallest municipality on the island, was the splendid sea view from our fifth story room. From our balcony we could see the hotel deck, pool and salt water swimming area below us, Lacco Ameno and a little of Casamicciola Terme, the neighboring town; and in the background the Amalfi coast and the jewel like Tyrrhenian Sea. Although the chilly sea breeze reminded us it was spring the view was alluring, drawing us down to the pool area for lunch.

In addition to the view, the 130-room family friend resort stood out for its seaside location, sunlit common areas, and 3,500 square meter health spa. Established in 1956 and renovated recently it was named for Regina Isabella (Italian for Queen Isabella), the former queen of Naples who, decades before the hotel was built, was told by her doctors a treatment in the Ischia thermal waters would be beneficial if she wanted to become pregnant. After enjoying treatments with the thermal waters she went on to have 11 children. Her success made the island popular for its mud and spa treatments and it remains so to this day.

Our brief stay at L’Albergo della Regina Isabella provided a wonderful introduction to Ischia. We enjoyed several health oriented treatments at the hotel spa, including one with the famed mud which was prepared for guest treatments for one year on the property. We also dined at the hotel, sampled a couple of Ischia wines and enjoyed delightful gourmet fare prepared by Pasquale Palamaro, an up and coming young chef. We look forward to revisiting Ischia and another stay at the family run hotel.

Children The hotel welcomed children of all ages

Class Of Accommodation Luxury hotel and spa in the five-start luxe category

Concierge Franco Galano

Connectivity There was an ADSL connection in our room and WiFi access in the main building (12 euros per 24 hour period). There were also two Apple computers for guest use in the Game Room (near the Regina Isabella Restaurant). Charges were as follows: one week € 50, one day € 12, one hour € 5, and 30 minutes € 3.

General Manager Pierangelo Tondina

Handicapped Access The property was able to welcome guests with wheelchairs

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location In the town of Lacco Ameno on the island of Ischia in the Tyrrhenian Sea of Italy, an hour hydrofoil boat ride away from Naples.

Owned And Managed Partenhotels owned by the Carriero family

Pets Allowed Some small pets were welcome on request.

Size There were 130 rooms and 200 employees in several connected multi-story buildings in a 1.6 acre property.

Year Opened-Renovated The hotel was established in 1956 by Angelo Rizzoli, a publisher and film director. In 2006, eighty percent of the property was renovated.

Lobby And Common Areas The main entrance of the hotel faces the square of Santa Restituta and the church bearing the same name on it. The Archaeological Museum is on the same square as are antique shops and boutiques. Inside the Regina, there were 1950’s style furnishings and paintings by contemporary artists, Capodimonte ceramics, hand painted tiles, antiques, Murano chandeliers, and tapestries. The resort complex was made up of several buildings of varying sizes and with slight different styles that were interconnected indoors. We could tell from the floor type when we passed from one building to the next. Ours seemed to be the most recent or most recently renovated.

Bathroom One my favorite features of the gray-khaki bathroom was the heated towel rack with crisp white towels above the plastic Carisma Bathtub which had two types of jets. In addition to the bathtub, there was a stand alone shower with a glass door just next to the entrance to the bathroom. It had an oversize rain shower head as well as a hand held shower head. A single sink occupied a corner of the bathroom, beneath a large square black framed mirror. On the opposite wall from the sink there was a toilet and a bidet. Recessed lights were controlled from a panel of three buttons just outside the bathroom entrance (two buttons for the bathroom and one for the hall lights). Corian covered the floor and part of the walls and also made up the counter by the sink and the shower walls. There was a phone on the wall between the toilet and the bidet. Above the sink on the left there was a blow dryer and a vanity mirror hanging on the wall.

Room After an elevator ride up a floor from reception and a walk past varied hallways and the entrance to the spa we arrived at our room where our luggage awaited us. We stayed in a fifth floor Royal Deluxe room, 564, a new looking and spacious 65 square foot room facing the bay. The strong sunlight in the morning lit and heated the room. The first thing we noticed when we entered the room were the hand painted tile floors with a red flower motif, the balcony and sea view.

The room was furnished with two comfortable single beds, with wood headrests a pillow each and luxurious linen sheets, joined together to make a king bed. Night tables made of the same type of wood as the headrest framed the bed. Each one had a lamp and a telephone. At the foot of the bed there was a gray cloth sofa with flower patterned cushions and in front of it there was a rectangular coffee table. Two matching blonde wood and white leather armchairs were arranged near the coffee table. Against one side there was a long rectangular desk facing the wall. On it there were city and hotel booklets, a handheld Siemens phone and an ADSL cable we connected to our computer.

There was an antique style mirror hanging on the wall; on the other wall there was a large black and white framed photograph above the desk. A large dresser with three drawers sat below the black and white photo. To the right of the dresser there was a Bang and Olufsen flat screen television. All furniture in the room was glass covered. At the back of the room, there was a walk-in closet with a full length mirror on the inside door, hanging space, drawers and shelves as well as an electronic safe.

Double wood and glass doors led to a small balcony with tile floors and railing furnished with an outdoor table and two matching armchairs. In addition to the lovely view I described earlier from the balcony we could see the dock as well as the hotel grounds and neighboring balconies. Even though it was too chilly to linger long it was my favorite part of the room.

Food And Restaurants Breakfast (served in the Regina Isabella Restaurant between 7:30 a.m. and 10:30 a.m.) was buffet style with fresh squeezed (at the buffet table) orange juice, vegetable juice making equipment, ham and salami, made-to-order omelet maker, several types of cakes, bread station, bottled water (still and sparkling), cheeses, eight types of jams in their bottles, crackers, tea (loose leaf and bags), fresh and preserved fruit, and cereals. Lunch was served between 1 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. at the Sporting Restaurant near the outdoor pool. Dinner was served at the Regina Isabella Restaurant (and soon to be reopened Indaco gourmet restaurant) between 7:45 p.m. and 10 p.m. A dress code was suggested for dinner (suits for men and an elegant dress for women).

We had an opportunity to sample the dinner cuisine from the main restaurant and the gourmet restaurant. At the Regina Isabella Restaurant we had Short pasta with smoked mozzarella and Risotto with seafood for appetizers; Fresh local fish cooked in salt (excellent) and Fried seafood with potato chips for mains; and Chocolate cake (a favorite) and Strawberries and ice cream for dessert. Petit fours and hot beverages followed.

Amenities There was a tray of house brand toiletries in plastic bottles: shampoo and conditioner in 200 milliliter size, Unico Aftershave hydrating lotion with UVA-B filter, Crema Idroattiva body lotion and Latte Dermopurificante facial cream in 60 milliliter size, Velvety Vegetable Soap (75 grams), a Vanity Set with cotton swaps, cotton pads and a nail file, and a Shoe Shine Glove. Room service staff replaced opened packages with new ones when they serviced the room. There were also bathrobes and slippers.

Facilities In addition to a 3,500 square meter spa, there were three pools (one indoor), access partially enclosed salt water bathing area, a fitness center, and three restaurants (two were open while we were there; the third one was being relocated).

Fitness Center And Spa The fitness center and spa were under renovation. The parts of the spa that were open were modern looking, spacious and brightly lit. The fitness center had Technogym equipment. The 2008 Condé Nast Traveller listed Le Terme della Regina Isabella as the fourth Best Spa in the world.

Pool And Beach The hotel had private docking facilities, indoor and outdoor pools and two small beaches, one to either side of the property. Perhaps because the ambient and water temperatures were still cool when we were there we saw no one at either beach (there were no beach chairs or umbrellas).

We saw two heated swimming pools with seawater in the hotel, an indoor pool within the spa area and an outer bay facing pool adjacent to the bar. Both had lounge chairs and the outer pool also had umbrellas to provide shade from the sun. On the west side of the hotel there was an open deck will lots of lounge chairs. A small beach on one side and a step ladder on the other allowed guests to enter a partially enclosed salt water swimming area. On the other side of the hotel, there was a second beach area which could be seen from the main restaurant dining room.

The second indoor pool, filled with thermal-water and known as the Risveglio dei Sensi pool (sensory awakening pool) was 15 square meters and used for music-therapy, chrome-therapy and aromatherapy. The main pool was 143 square meters large, the secondary pool was 110 square meters, the indoor and thermal pool was 40 square meters.

Conference Rooms There were five meeting rooms: Sala Azzurra, Sala Pinetina, Sala delle Carte, Sala delle Ginestre and Sala delle Bouganville able to accommodate between 30 and 150 people.

Other Richard Burton, Liz Taylor, Maria Callas, William Holden, Sheryl Crowe, Gwyneth Paltrow, Matt Damon, Jude Law and Andrea Bocelli are among the many celebrities that have stayed at the hotel. There were two small beaches on the property, one next to the open deck and a second one on the opposite side of the building facing the small marina. The marina was picturesque and provided a lovely background for the hotel. On Saturday the traffic of boats visiting and anchored in the bay area made a lot of noise. The number of families increased on the weekend. The sounds of children playing below carried to our fifth story balcony and inside the room.

The mini bar had six glasses of cut crystal in three different sizes, as well as two champagne flutes and two fine glasses. There were full size bottles of whiskey, vodka, wine, gin, grappa, port and cognac as well as chilled beverages in a mini refrigerator.

The television was connected to the bathroom so that when we turned on the television the sound was heard in the bathroom. Although we could control the volume (with a dial button marked “music”), we were unable to turn off the sound in the bathroom.

Cleanliness Very good

Date Of Review April 2010

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Service Our room was serviced twice a day. The staff we encountered were efficient, especially Raffaello at the concierge desk who was friendly and helpful and spoke some English. Although he was nearly always busy he had a ready smile when we approached him.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Named in honor of Queen Margherita of Savoy and part of the Baglioni chain in Italy, the Regina Hotel Baglioni was our home for four nights during a recent visit to the Eternal City. The hotel was one of the Baglioni City Hotels located near the city center of Italian cities that tout their elegance and “luxury with an Italian touch.”

One of the Art Nouveau hotel’s advantages was its location on the prestigious Via Veneto across the street from the United States Embassy. The family friendly hotel’s beautiful common areas, which looked recently refurbished, had a desirable blend of old style elegance and modern touches.

We spent the first three nights in a handsome newly renovated third floor Deluxe Room and the last night we switched to a second floor Junior Suite. It was nice to know there was a small basement level fitness room, sauna and spa. We liked the hotel’s location, our pretty room with complimentary WiFi, the splendid breakfast buffet as well as the quiet interior and inviting common areas.

Children Yes, children of all ages were welcome.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury five-star hotel

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi in room.

General Manager Marco Milocco

Handicapped Access While we were there we saw a guest in a wheel chair.

Head Concierge Lorenzo Fantechi

Length Of Stay Four nights

Location The hotel is on the Via Veneto across the street from the United States Embassy and south of the Borghese Gardens in the northern part of the city. It is within walking distance of the Hard Rock Cafe and the well known Spanish Steps.

Managed Baglioni Hotels Spa

Owned Roberto Polito

Pets Allowed The hotel welcomed pets of a “small size”

Size There were 103 rooms and suites in the multi-story hotel with a staff compliment of about 70.

Year Opened-Renovated The building where the hotel is housed was constructed between 1892 and 1894. An important remodeling job was concluded at the beginning of 2009 during which the total number of rooms was reduced to enlarge some of the rooms and create the Regina Suite.

Lobby And Common Areas The Art Nouveau style building was built by Giulio Podesti, described as one of the most important Roman architects of the Post Unitarian Era of the Italian Kingdom. The building features five large windows on each floor on the front façade; the windows on the ground floor are framed by floral friezes and open onto balconies with rectangular stucco ledges enclosed in wrought iron railings. Intricately wrought shelves rest on the pillars and serve to hold up the main floor balconies. The frames are decorated with satyr heads and stucco ribbons.

Although the building was originally designed with five floors and a mezzanine over the years three additional floors were added. Queen Margherita of Savoy made the hotel her temporary residence while she awaited the completion of her permanent residence, Villa Margherita, the modern day home of the American Embassy. According to the hotel’s promotional materials, because she was so pleased with her stay in 1911 she granted the hotel owner permission to name the hotel Regina (Italian for queen) and to decorate the emblem with the royal coat of arms.

The common areas were elegant and pretty. Double glass doors led from the porte cochere (covered) driveway into a small lobby with elevators to the left and a front desk to the right. A small office to the right of the front desk housed the concierge staff. A short hallway led to Caffe Baglioni, the hotel’s breakfast venue. The hotel’s main lunch and dinner restaurant had an entrance from the lobby and a street entrance as well.

Bathroom The bathroom was immediately left of the entrance to the room. It had a wall wide white framed mirror above twin sinks, toilet, bidet and shower (rain shower and hand held options) with half a glass door. There were crisp white towels in several sizes: two shower, four hand towels, two bidet and two face cloths. The bathroom in the junior suite was very similar to the Deluxe Room bathroom.

Rooms Our pretty third floor Deluxe Room, 310, was about 25 square meters in size. It was the last room in our hallway, far way from the front of the building. From our window we had a view of inner courtyard that was the intersection of three buildings containing air conditioning vents, roofs and neighboring offices. One excellent advantage of the location was the quiet within the room. With the exception of the sound of other doors being shut in the hallway the room was always blessedly quiet. What it lacked in size it made up for in decorative touches. To the right of the entrance there was a large closet with glass doors. The room and bathroom had white marble floors with red marble accents. In addition to the natural light that penetrated through the courtyard window there were plenty of lights inside the room. The walls, divided into upper and lower sections, had gold framed wall paper.

On the right side of the room, against the wall, a wall facing desk with a comfortable armchair was home to a large Samsung flat screen television. Next to it there was a matching luggage rack. Two beige armchairs with wood accents and a glass covered wood round table in the middle were at the foot of a large bed made up of two small mattresses joined together and resting against a wood and fabric headboard. The bed was framed by identical glass covered square night tables with a pattern that matched the desk and luggage rack. Modern glass lamps graced the walls and one hung from the ceiling. There were twin reading lights above the headboard. The suite was elegantly decorated in shades of gold with burgundy accents, contemporary light fixtures, double curtains, and a central temperature device with a digital control panel and a safe in the closet.

On our last night at the hotel we stayed in Room 205, a second floor 45 square meter Junior Suite facing a side street. Although more spacious than the Deluxe Room we had stayed in the previous nights it was furnished and decorated in a similar style as the higher floor room. We enjoyed the extra space.

Food And Restaurants Breakfast at Caffe Baglioni (available between 7 a.m. and 11 a.m.) was a self-service buffet with cereal, cheeses (several fresh and two aged), cold cuts (mortadella, turkey, ham, salamis), mixed greens, cold beverages (fruit juices, bottled water and bubbly Italian wine), fresh whole (bananas, tangerine, orange) and sliced fruit (pineapples, kiwi), pastries, cookies and cakes (blueberry filled, flan, plum cake, carrot cake, and butter cookies), breads (Italian, milk, Roman focacia), yogurt and pre-cooked chafing-dish foods including scrambled eggs, bacon, pork sausage, mushrooms and tomatoes.

Lunch was available in the cafe between noon and 3 p.m. Dinner was served Monday through Saturday at Brunello Restaurant. Sunday night when the Brunello was closed the cafe served dinner. Room service was available in the room 24 hours a day.

The night before our departure we visited the bar where we sampled Italian bubbly and a couple of the bar snacks before having dinner at the gourmet restaurant. Entering from the hotel lobby the first thing I noticed was the subdued lighting, spheric chandeliers, dark walls and gold furnishings of the contemporary décor. It was nice to see Fabio, who I had met at breakfast earlier in the week, was the bartender. The restaurant décor was similar to the bar décor in that the shades were dark although the curtains were deep red and the fabrics were velvet. The rectangular shaped enclosed veranda had large windows that looked out onto a side street. We were seated at a corner with cushy seats and a view of the dining room. Dinner at Brunello Lounge and Restaurant consisted of a duck breast with onions pre-appetizer, carbonara pasta followed by veal with ham and sage prepared by sous chef Patrick and paired with a chianti selected by Giovanni who was training to become a wine steward (the wine cellar had 350 wine labels). We wrapped up the meal with chocolate souffle with gooseberries and blackberries.

Amenities There were two cotton bathrobes, two complimentary 25 centiliter bottles of water (Acqua Panna and San Pellegrino) at turn down, cotton swabs, cotton balls, and two each of the house brand toiletries: conditioning shampoo, body foam, body lotion, shower caps, shoe sponges and one handy kit (a sewing kit and one nail file). There was an electronic safe in the closet and a stocked refrigerator.

Facilities The hotel housed: Brunello Lounge and Restaurant, Caffe Baglioni, fitness area with Technogym equipment and spa with sauna and two lounge chairs.

Other There was a small fruit bowl with grapes and berries and a welcome note from the manager in our room when we checked in. When we arrived at the hotel from the airport it was raining lightly. Although there were no guests there were vehicles parked at the entrance leaving insufficient room for our taxi to park under the covered driveway and there was no doorman in sight. Our driver was forced to park and unload our luggage on the street. When we were half way to the entrance a porter arrived to help.

The hotel had two meeting rooms with a capacity of 80 and 20 guests each. The Regina Hotel Baglioni, part of the Baglioni Hotel Group, was one of 15 hotels and a residence (one in London, nine in Italy, and five in France) striving for “a less formal type of elegance and hospitality without missing out on design details.” The Baglioni Hotel Group is a Milan based company.

Famous past guests at the hotel include: Dan Brown, Isabella Rossellini, Jane Fonda, Liza Minelli, Enrique Iglesias, and Roberto Carlos Braga.

Cleanliness Very good

Date Of Visit April 2010

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our room was serviced twice daily (in the morning and in the evening). The staff we met were helpful and professional. At the cafe I asked if the hot chocolate was instant. Fabio, one of the staff members, brought me a cup so I could taste it. Twice we spoke with a concierge. Saturday morning after breakfast we asked one for help securing reserved tickets for the Vatican Museum for that afternoon. He immediately said that it was not possible. When I explained I had found a website that had them but couldn’t print the order from my computer he agreed to check. With his help and our credit card we purchased and printed the tickets within a few minutes.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Our first impression of the Romeo Hotel was in an unexpected venue. As we exited our high speed train from Rome we met Antonio Deperte, the newly appointed general manager of the hotel who had volunteered to pick us up at the train and personally introduce us to the much maligned Italian city. His warm greeting, in American English, and the short drive from the station to the hotel in a vintage Jaguar together set the tone for our lovely two-night stay at the art filled property.

This 84-room boutique hotel across the street from the Port of Naples in Italy had many outstanding features. The architectural style, a blend of modern Japan meets Southern Italy, was distinctive and memorable. A myriad touches set the hotel apart from the usual chain hotels and garden variety independently owned properties. It was clear the owner of the hotel and his staff were striving for excellence. From the leather electronic key holder to the custom designed toiletries bottles, iPod nano with speakers and preloaded music, original artwork and distinctive elevators there was frequently something unexpected to be found within the hotel.

Although the Romeo Hotel was undergoing renovations when we were there causing the temporary relocation of its restaurants and the closure of the spa and pool, we especially enjoyed our stay there. We liked our spacious corner suite with a view of the sea and the port, scented toiletries, modern features and Japanese influence, lovingly decorated and assembled artwork scattered throughout the property, efficient and service oriented staff, and the excellent in-house sushi and gourmet restaurants. We were particularly impressed with Andrea Aprea’s elegant and delicious yet distinctively Neapolitan tasting menu.

An outstanding hotel is more than bricks and mortar. It is also the quality, interest and dedication of its owners and staff. This was the case with the Romeo. Thanks in great part to the staff’s efforts and recommendations we discovered a little of the city on foot and by car. We look forward to returning to the hotel to experience it post renovations and to further discover the city.

Children The hotel welcomed children of all ages

Class Of Accommodation Five star luxury hotel

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi access in our suite. The connection worked well.

General Manager Antonio L. Deperte

Handicapped Access The property had designated rooms and toilettes for wheelchair bound guests and an amplifier system for hearing impaired visitors in the meeting rooms.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location Across the street from the Port of Naples.

Owned And Managed Romeo Alberghi S.r.l. (Alfredo Romeo)

Pets Allowed No

Size There were 84 rooms and 58 employees in the ten-floor hotel.

Year Opened-Renovated The hotel opened December 2008 and was undergoing major renovations during our visit.

Lobby And Common Areas The hotel, designed by Kenzo Tange and Associates of Tokyo, was styled to be the union between contemporary Japanese and Italian design. The Hotel Romeo was built on the abandoned shell of the former headquarters of the cruise line Flotta Lauro, built in the 1950s and considered by some one of the first modern buildings of Naples at the time. The building’s original glass façade was easily recognized and made the property well known to the public.

In the hotel, Tange Associates sought to acknowledge the importance of the respected building while designing a concept in homage to the former Palazzo Lauro. Part of the idea was to incorporate the obvious connection between the building and the sea in an updated design.

The architects designed the curvilinear form within the glass front of the building to symbolize the movement of the waves and soften the character of the building to reflect a warm and appealing point of interest. The wooden louvers at the top of the building, reminiscent of the wooden decking and finishings aboard a ship, were meant to soften the building’s character by adding a human scale to the facade and serve as another reminder of the sea.

The interior was designed to be open and contemporary while emphasizing the human scale. There were walls of Macassar ebony and art features throughout. The Japanese architects set out to create an open plan to maximize space in the hotel rooms. The bathrooms too were open although they included sliding partitions for privacy when required. The furnishings were by B&B Italia, an Italian modern furniture manufacturer.

In the common areas there was art by: Gregorio Botta, Untitled 2005 in wax, glass, pigments, rice paper (Cristallo Bar); Francesco Clemente, Untitled 2008 mixed technique (ground floor hall and lift); Sergio Fermariello, Cacciaspiriti 1. Il Cavaliere e la sua ombra (Ghoshunter 1. The Knight and its Shade) Cacciaspiriti 2. Lemure (Ghoshunter 2. Lemure) 2008 in steel (lobby) and Frammenti di naufragio (Fragments of a Shipwreck) 2008 in glass and steel (Cristallo Bar); and Mario Schifano, Untitled 1988 mixed technique on canvas (lobby).

The antiquary collection: Globo celeste, Globo terrestre (Celestial Globe, Terrestrial Globe) from Rome second half of XVIII century (reception area); Rameau Baby Grand Piano from Paris 1980s (Zero Sushi Bar); Plastic model of the city of Naples from Naples first half of XVIII century (reception area); Bench with backrest and armrest from Middle Europe XVII century (lobby); two armchairs “Asia” from Asia XIX century (Zero Sushi Bar); two Bergere armchairs from Paris mid XVIII century (lobby); Armour and Japanese Art: Tatewaku Nimai-Do Gusoku Edo period XVII-XIX century (Zero Sushi Bar); Gomai-Okegawa-Do Tosei-Gusoku second half-end of Edo period XVIII-XIX century (Zero Sushi Bar); two travel folding armchairs Ching Dinasty Kwang-Hsu period 1874 (reception area); two horn and wood tripod stools Middle Europe XIX century (lobby); Seven Consoles Luis XIV, Luis XV, Luis XVI from Naples XVIII century (lift foyers from the first to the eight floor); and three Copper bass-relief from 1950 and part of the Palazzo Lauro collection (internal staircase). There was also a Juke Box Wurlitzer from the United States from the 1950s in the first floor recreational area.

Bathroom There was a half bathroom (toilet, sink and bidet) next to the entrance and an en suite bathroom in the bedroom with a glass sink, bidet, toilet. A glass door led to a second area within the bathroom that housed a doorless shower and an oval plastic bathtub. Sunlight came in through a rectangular window, behind the bathtub, that faced the street (because of the positioning there was privacy).

Room We stayed in a 72 square meter suite, Romeo Bay View Suite 702, a bay facing corner contemporary style suite on the seventh floor with a view of the Port of Naples and its environs. An electronic key opened the door leading to a small foyer with a mirrored door closet with an electronic safe within.There was a guest bathroom on the opposite side of the foyer. Designed in a Japanese style with wood veneer flooring, accents and walls the suite was divided into two main areas, a living area and a sleeping area. The living area had a pine wood veneer partial ceiling and middle section. Against the far wall there was a lime green sectional sofa. The middle of the room was taken up by a coffee table. A flat screen television hung across from the sofa. In the corner nearest the entrance there was a desk with a Sony computer with flat screen, Bang & Olufsen hand held phone and fax machine. Nearby and built into the wall there was space for a Nespresso machine and underneath it there was a mini bar with a refrigerator. A mirrored door on the right and a glass door on the left led to the sleeping area of the room.

To the right of the sleeping area there was a walk-in closet with luggage racks,hanging space and a desk with an armless chair. In the room, against the wall, there was a glass cabinet. A comfortable and extra large single mattress bed set against a small green headboard occupied the center of the room facing a flat screen television. A wood panel identical to the one in the living area ran behind and above the bed about two thirds into the room. There were matching wood veneer night tables. One had a Bang & Olufsen wired phone and the other one had a tray with a bottle of water and an iPod Romeo nano with house loaded music and a remote control with speaker. Two lime green armchairs stood against the other side of the room, adjacent to the floor to ceiling windows facing Cristoforo Columbus street and the port. A floor to ceiling mirror ran the length of a column on one side of the room. There were three Bang & Olufsen phones in the room: a wireless handheld one on the desk, a wired unit on the night table and a wall unit in the master bathroom.

To manage the strong sunlight there were floor to ceiling double curtains in hunter green, thin veneer curtains and wood shutters. Wood and glass frames enveloped original art on the walls. Temperature control was through digital wall displays. Glass and metal lamps stood upright and hung from the ceiling. There were also recessed lights. Additional contemporary features were volcanic stone planters and a “broken glass” table that held the television in the living area. The television in the bedroom hung from a wood veneer fixture above a small black table. Lights were motion activated. At our request, a maintenance staff person adjusted the controls allowing us the additional option of manual control of the lights.

Food And Restaurants Breakfast was served in a ground floor restaurant to the left rear of the building entrance (the same room where we had sushi one night). The buffet service included fresh fruit cups, cold cuts, cheese and cold fish platters, pastries, yogurt, mini size cereal box selection, fresh brewed coffee and a tea and herbal infusion section. In addition to the breakfast area, there were two restaurants, Il Comandante, for gourmet fare, and Zero, a sushi bar where we had a pre dinner snack and aperitif. Zero, led by Keisuke Aramaki, a Japanse sushi chef, had an eight meter arabesque marble counter, a long bar and a central water canopy.

Amenities There were house brand scented made-in-Italy toiletries: hand soap (my favorite), shampoo, conditioner, body gel, bath salts, and tiny size night, day, hand cream and lip balm. There were also cloth slippers, electronic safe, two complimentary Nespresso coffee capsules, complimentary 750 milliliter Laurentana still water, welcome pastries, almond paste filled chocolates, and thick cotton hotel branded Aranaldo Caprai bathrobes with a hoodie.

Facilities There were two restaurants (Il Comandante and Zero Sushi Bar), a cigar room, and Cristallo Bar, a snack bar. The spa which was being rebuilt during our visit was due to open in Autumn 2010.

Conference Facilities There were five meeting rooms that could be equipped with video-projectors, rigid or plasma screens, microphones, amplifier for hearing impaired, and translation box: Lauro of 102 square meters for up to 100 guests; Vespucci of 39 square meters for up to 30 guests; Doria of 25 square meters for up to 20 guests; Colombo of 20 square meters for up to 12 guest and Relax of 19 square meters.

Other The hotel was in the 2010 Condé Nast Traveller Hot List.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review April 2010

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Our week-long trip aboard the SeaDream II was reminiscent of the by-gone days of classic ship travel where passengers had an opportunity to meet each other while sharing time and space with fellow travelers and crew members. In an era fraught with time constraints our “cruise” aboard SeaDream II provided us the luxury of meeting like minded people while enjoying a leisurely and luxurious voyage along the coast from Italy to Spain in the prime of the area’s tourist season.

We thoroughly enjoyed the pluses the sailing offered such as a limited number of passengers (there were 108 of us) and high crew to passenger ratio (there were 96 crew members). From the beginning, we were impressed with the personalized service and staff member’s ability to recognize passengers by name. Even by these high standards, food service and dining room staff, under the vigilant supervision of chief steward Christophe Cornu, stood out for their professionalism and extraordinary service. His staff were efficient, attentive, knowledgeable about the meals, and frequently remembered guest preferences. Meals were served at set times and were prepared to order. Dishes looked appetizing, were well prepared and arrived hot when they were supposed to. We especially liked that meals were a la carte (only breakfast included a buffet portion) after which we always felt satisfied without being overfull. Our hat is off to the chef and pastry chef for feeding us well and frequently in a moving vessel where supplies and last minute changes of schedule must present challenges land based chefs rarely encounter.

We found many attractive features aboard the recently refurbished ship, formerly part of the Seabourn fleet. Service and gratuities, meals, snacks, room service orders, wines, champagne and most drinks were included. There were plenty of poolside and top deck comfortable lounge chairs though sometimes it was too windy and cold for us to enjoy them; complimentary activities such as yoga classes, walks with activities led by staff members at some ports, a brief visit to the bridge, karaoke singing, use of books, magazines, board games, a small selection of DVDs and CDs from the ship’s library, swimming in the pool, Jacuzzi, working out in the fitness area (with a marvelous view of the water), water sports on one occasion, evening movies in the Main Salon, live music (guitar and piano) and an impromptu Flamenco performance which we much enjoyed. We took advantage of some of the additional options requiring supplementary fees such as shore excursions (available at every port we visited), Segway rentals, spa treatments, Internet surfing, and fine dining shore side (SeaDream II staff assisted us with selection and reservations at an enchanting gourmet restaurant).

The weather cooperated only part of the time during our trip. Strong winds and choppy waters made plenty of passengers seasick one day and threatened to at least once more. In response, the captain shared updates over the loudspeaker and assured us he would lead us to calmer waters as soon as possible. Sea sickness pills were readily available and the crew responded quickly and effectively to the situation by switching routing and ports. Although this caused the cancellation of visits to popular ports such as Portofino, the crew adjusted the itinerary and provided desirable alternatives including an unscheduled excursion opportunity to Lucca or Florence and a delightful daylong stop in legendary Saint Tropez.

We were amazed at how many of our fellow passengers had traveled aboard the SeaDream or SeaDream II on past occasions, some of them several times. They greeted and were greeted by staff members who recognized them from previous trips; and several of them booked 2006 sailings before the conclusion of our voyage. Almost all of the travelers, mainly couples and family groups, we spoke with, seemed to have enjoyed the SeaDream II experience. As the week progressed we understood their preference for the cozy yachting oriented options SeaDream II offered. It’s difficult for a trip to be flawless or offer everything a traveler wants. It was impressive to find a classy company which excelled and succeeded a majority of the time. We have already recommended SeaDream II to friends and are considering repeat visits ourselves.

About The Crew Ours was diverse with crew members from nearly 20 countries including England, France, Holland, Hungary, Norway, and the Philippines. Some like the captain had many years of sailing experience, others stood out in their chosen vocation such as the capable Dutch chef and pastry chef.

Built The SeaDream II was built in 1984 and refurbished in 2003

Description A week long (Saturday to Saturday) cruise aboard a refurbished cruise ship with a limited number of passengers. Emphasis was on personalized service, well prepared meals and a quality experience for adults; there were few if any activities for children and the ambiance was adult oriented. All meals (at set times) and snacks in between meals were included as were most on board activities. Most drinks including wines with meals, cocktails and champagne were included except for premium varieties which were available for a reasonable supplement. On shore, passengers were usually on their own to relax, meander about on foot, hire a car or sign up for a third party shore excursion made available through the ship at an additional cost (usually starting at $100 and up per person and exclusive to SeaDream II passengers). Dress was casual although some guests enjoyed dressing up in evening gowns and tuxes for dinner for their own pleasure.

Duration Seven nights (arrival was on a Saturday afternoon between 2 and 5) and departure was the following Saturday morning between 7 and 10 a.m.).

Executive Crew Captain Erik Lund Anderssen SeaDream II master, chef de cuisine Robert van Rijsbergen, sommelier Ferenc Kis, chief steward Christophe Cornu

Handicapped Access Limited. There was an elevator which many of the elderly passengers with ambulatory challenges made use of. The gangway stairs to board the ship required some care to negotiate for anybody with physical impediments. We observed a number of passengers anxious when boarding the tenders, especially when the water was choppy.

Internet Connectivity There was access to the Internet from staterooms and from the yacht’s Library ($5 for the first 10 minutes and $3 for each additional 10-minute period). The charge was $35 for 24 hours of unlimited access. Laptops were available at no charge. We connected using our laptop. Setting it up was as easy as setting up in a hotel room; the communications officer came to our room to set it up within five minutes of our request. The connection was via satellite and speedy although we had some difficulties on one occasion with outgoing emails due to a spam block.   

Location In the Mediterranean Sea sailing from Rome, Italy to Barcelona, Spain  

Managed SeaDream Yachts, Inc.

Owned Atle Brynestad

Sailing Route Original program: Civitavecchia (Rome), Sorrento, Porto Ercole, Portofino, Monte Carlo, Port Vendres, Barcelona. Revised program due to weather conditions: Civitavecchia (Rome), Sorrento, Saint Estefano, Livornio, Monte Carlo, Saint Tropez and Barcelona.

Size The yacht could accommodate a maximum of 100 passengers in 54 staterooms and had a crew of 92.

Common Areas The ship boasted comfortable contemporary casual décor. There was cloth furniture in the downstairs dining rooms, wicker and cushions in the outdoor top decks, various kinds of lounge and deck chairs poolside and on the top outdoor decks. One of our favorite spots to relax were the large elevated double and single cushioned areas near the rear of the ship. In spite of the loud noise, it was a relaxing place to spend a few minutes in between meals or lounge on when feeling lazy.  

The Vessel The SeaDream II has a gross tonnage of 4260. It is 344 feet long and has a 47 foot beam. Its maximum speed is 14 knots. It had a Bahamian registry.

Cabins And Heads Our cabin or stateroom (#401) was 195 square feet in size. Immediately next to the entrance there was a small closet with two hanging sections (one above the other). The other side of the closet housed the bathrobes and allowed us to hang full length items. The third and smallest section of the closet had shelves.

Beyond the closet there was a sitting area with a built-in cloth settee in a blue gray checkered pattern, two lamps and art work on the wall. Under it, we found life vests in one drawer and extra storage space in the second drawer. An elongated wood table faced the settee.  Across from the settee there was a wood built-in desk/entertainment/entertainment area with remote controlled flat screen 15 “ Sharp TV, Toshiba DVD player and Sony CD player. There were glasses in another shelf. A Zodiac Freedcom 1 phone was located on the desk immediately under the light switches and single 110 v. electrical outlet in the cabin. There was also an ice bucket and services folder on the desk.  There were three drawers in the lower part of the desk. To the right there was an electronic safe, quarter size refrigerator and storage area.

The sitting and sleeping areas were divided by an off white cloth curtain. Beyond the curtain, we found two twin beds adjacent to each other and positioned against a wooden headboard. A small painting hung above the bed; a night table with a lamp was on either side of the beds. A large mirror occupied the top half of the bed facing wall. A shelf the length of the sleeping area lay below the mirror. It included a small stool that allowed the area to function as a vanity. There were plants on either side of the shelf along with a magnifying make-up mirror. There was a large two-sided porthole beyond the bed that looked directly outside.

Except for minor inconveniences (we could clearly hear the music and piano bar noises at night and people talking in the hallway adjacent to our cabin. There was a slight musty odor in the room when we arrived) the cabin was very comfortable and a convenient place to spend time when we felt like being indoors. Except for certain plumbing sounds in the head, we never heard any sounds from neighboring cabins.

The head (bathroom), though small, offered everything we needed. There was a flushing toilet, sink, two small shelves next to the large mirror and a glass enclosed full size shower with three shower heads and a circular temperature dial.  The floor and walls were covered in beige marble. There were tissues from a receptacle near the sink, toiletries on the shelves and a cotton and cotton swab container.

Meals-Restaurants Meals were served at set times as follows: breakfast from 8 to 10 a.m., lunch from 12 to 2 p.m. and dinner from 8 to 10 p.m. Outside of those times it was possible to order snacks from a set weeklong menu in our cabin or on the upper decks during the day. Breakfast consisted of a buffet of cereals (in small boxes), yogurt, fresh and canned fruit, cheeses, cold cuts (one or more of the following smoked salmon, salami, ham or turkey), an ample selection of bread and pastries, butter, jam, and juices including some squeezed on board. We also had the option, which we took advantage of several times, of ordering hot dishes and daily specials a la carte.

Lunch options varied daily. We missed lunch on a number of occasions in order to visit exciting ports and attractions. On those days, we ate shore side or had a snack when we returned to the ship.  Room service was fast. One afternoon we were peckish and ordered a club sandwich. Ten minutes later someone was knocking on our door with the sandwich! Hors d’oeuvres and aperitifs were served nightly an hour before dinner in the Salon. We especially enjoyed the caviar and seafood medley serving. There were also sushi, Mediterranean or other themed options.

Dinner was the main meal of the day in terms of pomp and fanfare. Everyone supped in the main dining room on Deck 2, where tables were attractively set with silver, china and crystal ware. There were several choices from the a la carte menu including vegetarian options and Oriental Wellness Cuisine. There was always fresh bread and an assortment of European cheeses to choose from as well as a red and white wine option of the sommelier’s daily selection. He also made recommendations of optional wines available for a supplementary fee.

Some of the dishes we tried were Cream of Celery flavored with Nutmeg, Consommé, Sautéed Sea Scallops with Pumpkin Risotto and Parmesan Shavings, Grilled Veal Saltimbocca with Fresh Sage Leaves Herb Linguini and Marsala Sauce, Fresh Yellow fin Tuna with Haricot Verts, Green Asparagus, Mashed Potato and Veal Stock Reduction, Carpaccio of Beef Tenderloin with Roquette Lettuce and Parmesan Shavings, Cream of Forest Mushrooms with White Truffle Oil, Escargots “Bourguignon,” Grilled Lobster Tail with Green Asparagus, Red Bell Pepper, Garlic Creamed Pomme Purée, Cream of Roma Tomato with Fresh Basil, Whole Roast Prime Ribeye Beef with Pont Neuf Potatoes, Compote of Root Vegetables and Burgundy Sauce,  Smoked Salmon Tartar on Cauliflower Salad and Caviar Crème, Puff Pastry with Tomato and Melted Goat Cheese, French Style Onion Soup with Cheese Crouton, Grilled Swordfish Steak on Artichoke a la Barigoule, Boiled Potatoes and Mediterranean Topping, Duck a l’Orange on Braised White Cabbage with Cumin, Pommes Willaim and Grand Marnier Infused Demi Glace. One night the chef prepared an eight-course tasting menu: Mousse of White Asparagus with Marinated Lobster; Homemade Terrine of Foie Gras with Fig Compote and Toasted Butter Brioche; Cream of Pumpkin with Tarragon and Prawns; Fresh Fillet of Seabass “al Forno” on Brandade de Morue ; Braised Scallions and red Beet Dressing; Lime Sorbet with Limoncello di Sorrento; Honey and Five Spice Roasted Saddle of Veal with Caramelized Belgian Endives, Fondant Potato; Poached Rhubarb with Strawberry Flan and Vanilla Ice Cream.

Amenities Bulgari Green Tea toiletries including shower cap, shampoo, conditioner, soap, bath and shower gel, and body lotion. Cotton bathrobes and his and hers oriental style pajamas. Drinks in a smaller cabin refrigerator. Meals, champagne, house wines liquor (except premium brands) and room service. Every night when we returned from dinner there was information on the following day’s activities, information on our next land excursions, the U.S.A. Times summary, a daily amenity such as: two white chocolate dipped strawberries, a long stemmed red rose, a sachet of lavender potpourri, a nautical map, a bucket with a half a bottle of champagne. There was a specially made (and delicious) birthday cake one night.

Leisure Activities Available Shore excursions, golf simulator, Caviar and Champagne Splash, sunbathing on the Balinese Sun Beds, reading (there was a small library on the yacht), shopping (during the day-long stops in European ports and at the yacht’s boutique). One day during our week-long yachting adventure the water sports were made available at the Water Sports Marina though the weather was overcast and much too cold for us to enjoy. A favorite activity was dining (indoor, outdoor and 24-hour room service). The spa ladies spoke little English but were pleasant and helpful. We enjoyed the small sauna and a shower stall that doubled as a steam room (required advance reservations) and a relaxing “deep” massage. One afternoon we tried the new Segway Human Transporter, an 85 lb motorized vehicle that moves in response to the driver’s body motion, in the area next to the ship which was the only place it was allowed. The 10-minute ride was a lot of fun!

Other The Company was founded in September of 2001 by Norwegian entrepreneur Atle Brynestad who founded Seabourn Cruise Line and Larry Pimentel, who was president of Seabourn under Brynestad and later president and CEO of the merged company Cunard-Seabourn. Pimentel is now chairman and chief executive officer of SeaDream and a co-owner. The two friends, Brynestad and Pimentel, brought into SeaDream a small group of management colleagues and shipboard officers and staff.   

Smoking was possible only outdoors.

Cleanliness Very good. We spotted staff cleaning the ship all the time; they scrubbed the decks, polished the bronze fixtures, vacuumed and scoured. The only annoyance was the pesky stowaway flies we seemed to have picked in Rome. They found their way to just about every area on board, including the evening dining room and our cabin. By the end of the trip, they had disappeared.

Date Of Review October 2005

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Service There was twice daily made service and change of towels. The service aboard the SeaDream II was attentive with attention to details. Even within that high standard, service staff in the dining rooms were exceptional. They knew us on site from our first encounter. Christophe, the chief steward, was in charge of food services and handled service issues with military efficiency and gentlemanly politeness. Joram, from Holland, remembered our preferences, made dining recommendations and seemed to anticipate our wants even before we did. Servers Laurent and Sylvester were attentive and kind. Melanie looked after our cabin. It was always well made although by midweek we had only seen here once. She filled our request (air spray to eliminate a slightly musty odor and a thicker duvet as the cabin was chilly) with speed. Christine, the assistant activities director, always had a ready smile and was eager to help as were Verena and Chela at reception.

Would You Take This Voyage Again?  Yes

Overall Impression Established by famed hotelier Cesar Ritz at the request of the Italian president in 1894, this Roman jewel is said to have its foundation over the Baths of Diocletian. The hotel, built on land belonging to Pope Sistus V, recently underwent a $35 million renovation requiring 450 workmen, including 151 skilled craftsmen and one million man hours of work.

By the time we visited the “Hotel Grand,” as many Romans know it, the St. Regis had been transformed many times over from the time long ago when one night cost 52 Italian lira. Walking around the lobby, we could only imagine how impressive, modern and beautiful it must have seemed when it opened. Although it was a little removed from the heart of Rome where many tourists like to stay, the St. Regis offered many advantages to lure us.

We enjoyed the “regular neighborhood” feel at the hotel’s doorstep. Although there were plenty of people and a few tourists peppered in between, the mobs of high season tourists were nowhere to be seen. In addition to the beautiful renovated look and luxurious accommodations, we appreciated the warm and welcoming attitude and the staff’s efficient manner. From the door man when we entered, to the reception desk, concierge and dining room staff, we saw smiles, friendly greetings, and a helpful and hospitable mindset that was refreshing. The St. Regis will be at the top of our list for a future visit to Rome.

Class Of Accommodation Five stars

Concierge Augusto Sbaraglia

Connectivity There was high speed Internet connectivity in the rooms (via cable for $15 per day) and Wi-Fi in the public areas. We connected quickly and easily from the room and were able to download all our emails and search the web as usual.

General Manager Michele Frignani

Handicapped Access Some rooms were especially designated and offered a larger bathroom and larger shower equipped with a special chair.

Length Of Stay One night

Location Near the train station in Rome

Owned-Managed Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc.

Pets Allowed Pets weighing a maximum of 10 kilos were welcome

Size The five-story St. Regis had 161 room including 23 suites

Year Opened-Renovated Established January 11, 1894, renovated and reopened January 11, 2000

Lobby And Common Areas The Salone Ritz had frescoes by the famous painter, Mario Spinetti. There was a small vineyard in an interior courtyard known as the Adornetto. The work of original architect Giulio Podesti resulted in the hotel looking like a private estate; that made for an interesting combination of a grand and cozy ambiance. The renovation made visible intricate marble mosaic, newly cleaned precious candelabra and Murano chandeliers in the five story building. The renovation was conducted by, among others, architects Intertechno from Rome and Milan; Hirsch Bedner and Associates from Atlanta did the interior design and Pha from Atlanta did the light designs. There were antique chandeliers in the lobby and other common areas. We liked the regal style of the hotel and felt relaxed in the common areas, which remained uncluttered even when the hotel was full.

Bathroom The white marble bathroom was spacious. It had a bath tub and a separate extra large shower. There were also twin sinks and a bidet.

Room Our Deluxe Room (#435) faced the hotel’s courtyard. It had a king bed with adjacent wood night tables and lamps, a small vanity with a chair and mirror, two courtyard facing windows, a courtyard facing desk and ceramic base lamp, an entertainment center where the 19 inch remote controlled Phillips TV rested, a sofa and two tables. A crystal chandelier hung from the ceiling. There was an electronic safe in the closet. The room was decorated in classic Italian style with beige, gold and red colors including a patterned carpet. We appreciated having the option of controlling the room temperature through the individual thermostat. Other than some humidity stains around the entrance door, the room was handsome and comfortable. Once we opened the double heavy curtains, sunshine poured in.

Food And Restaurants The main dining room, where we had lunch and breakfast served a la carte and buffet style meals. There was room service and for gourmets Vivendo offered exotic options. Although Vivendo’s regular menu is Italian, during our stay the restaurant was hosting an Asian and Thai food festival.

Amenities Our room came with 24-hour butler service, Hermes toiletries including soap, shampoo, conditioner, body lotion and shower gel, two bathrobes, a shower cap, cotton swabs and complimentary bottled water.

Facilities Fitness center, Vivendo restaurant including a wine cellar and champagne bar, Le Grand Bar, and Caroli Health Club spa.

Fitness Center And Spa There was a cozy fitness center on the fifth floor. It included a spa section although there didn’t seem to be any permanent staff. To schedule a message, the attendant explained, we had to plan at least one day in advance in order for the therapist to come it for the treatment.

Conference Facilities There were 15 meeting rooms with seating starting at 10 guests. Internet service was available in the meeting rooms for a supplementary fee.

Other Over the years, numerous personalities have stayed in the Hotel. A partial list includes Richard Burton, Elizabeth Taylor, Maria Callas, Sofia Loren, Richard Gere, Federico Fellini, Franco Zeffirelli, Sharon Stone, Woody Allen, Mia Farrow, Madonna, Kirk and Michael Douglas, George Clooney, Brad Pitt, Matt Damon, Andy Garcia, Monica Bellucci, Vincent Cassel, and Nicholas Cage.

For those times we were in the mood for Americana, the Hard Rock Café was within a short walk.

Check-In-Check-Out Although we arrived early, the front desk staff tried to find us a room right away. After two failures (the rooms we were escorted to hadn’t been cleaned), they treated us to lunch to make up for the inconvenience. We particularly appreciated this gesture since we hadn’t complained. By the time we finished lunch, our room was ready.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review September 2005

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Arriving at the Hotel Hassler after a transatlantic flight and dizzying taxi drive from the airport, I was relieved to discover my room was ready. Inside, the charming and comfortable black and white themed room with a delightful view of the city and welcome fruit basket, helped reenergize me. In spite of the lack of sleep and jet lag, I was eager to revisit Rome after a long absence. From the small balcony I could see the Spanish steps and beyond them, in the distance, the Vatican. And what a location! The Hassler is in the heart of Rome, at the top of the famous Spanish Steps, an excellent point of departure for tourist oriented visitors. The wholly independent and small family run hotel, which has been temporary home to many celebrities over the years, had a historic character.

Looking out at the wondrous view of Rome from the rooftop restaurant while at breakfast, it was hard to imagine that at one time the Hotel was the headquarters of the U.S. Air Force after World War II. The Hassler offered a combination of excellent business and tourism location with outstanding views of the Eternal City, a see-and-be-seen reputation, in-room Internet access, a well appointed, if small, room, and choice of rooftop restaurant or cozy indoor gourmet dining at the Palazzetto, a hotel owned property across the street.

Class Of Accommodation Small luxury hotel

Concierge Nino Maffezzoni

Handicapped Access Although two of the rooms had handicapped bathrooms, there were steps in various places. The hotel suggested handicapped guests contact them prior to booking for details.

Internet Connectivity The hotel offered high speed Internet cable access for 20 euros per day from guest rooms and business center.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location At the top of the Spanish Steps and within walking distance of the famous Via Condotti in the heart of Rome

Owned And Managed Roberto E. Wirth, a fifth generation hotelier, who was winner of the “Independent Hotelier of the World 2005” award by Hotels magazine.

Pets Allowed No

Size There were 86 rooms, 10 deluxe suites, three presidential suites and 140 employees working in the eight story building.

Year Opened-Renovated Opened as a hotel in 1895 by Alberto Hassler and designed by German architect Karsh. In 1939, it was demolished almost entirely by Oscar Wirth and rebuilt. The most recent renovation was in April 2005; the renovation of the seventh floor of the hotel (changed the paintings, fabrics, and added wood floors to the rooms).

Lobby And Common Areas In the lobby, numerous details evoked a Belle Époque atmosphere. These included double height ceiling, waterfall sheers, silver chandeliers, velvet and silk furnishings, antique fabric wall hangings, Murano glass lamps, 18 century mirrors, alabaster vases, gold carvings, and cornices finished with distress paint. New burgundy carpeting was installed after our visit. There were two sculptures, one of a she-wolf by Leonardo Lucchi and a bronze ballerina by L’Alatalena to welcome guests.

At the other end there was a red carpeted stairway, flanked by typical Roman mosaic walls. These were decorated with antique fabric panels. The adjacent Palm Court Garden was veiled by high, creeper-covered walls. Antique marble statues and relics uncovered at the hotel site in 1800s adorned the recesses. The theatre-like drapes and gurgling sound of fountains enhanced the ambiance of the indoor garden.

Bathroom The marble bathroom was comfortable and beautiful at the same time. The most striking feature was the black and white marble tiles that covered the walls and vanity. In front of the entrance there were twin sinks lined with Amorvero toiletries, a large mirror, a make-up mirror, a blow dryer and lots of plush towels. To the left of the entrance there was a water closet and bidet behind a glass door; to the right a large mosaic tiled half open bathtub and shower.

Room My 247-square foot Deluxe room (#506), located on the fifth floor, was decorated in a black and white Art Deco style with beige walls and lots of mirrors. It had a marble floor in the hallway near the entrance. One side of the hallway had mirrors and the other side had glass doors leading to the bathroom. Beyond the hallway, the floor was covered with a plush black and white carpet that reached the edge of the small balcony. From the balcony, which had two chairs and a table, there was a great view of the area near the Spanish steps in the foreground and Rome including the Vatican in the background. Sound proof doors and thick double curtains kept the city sounds and bright Roman light out, making it possible to sleep late.

The center of the room was occupied by two single beds covered with a luxurious feather duvet and black, white and red cushions leaning against a black velvet headboard. There were night tables on either side of the bed. One table had a black and white crystal lamp, vanity table and stool and the other had a Tenovis phone and mirror above it. There was also a small grey table next to the balcony entrance and a mirrored closet where the minibar refrigerator and TV were located. Cotton bath robes and an electronic safe were in the large closet with lacquered and mirrored doors that was next to the bed. A small chandelier with crystal tear drops adorned the ceiling.

Food And Restaurants I enjoyed my first breakfast served on German Schonwald dinnerware and silver cutlery, at the suggestions of the front desk staff person, in my room facing the balcony and looking out on the city. It was a fun and relaxing way to start the day. Breakfast at the Hassler restaurant was buffet style. Although the beautiful view of Rome from almost every table was a draw in itself, the buffet options were attractive and varied. I had a delicious traditional Italian dinner at the Palazzetto, a step away from the Hassler and also owned by Robert Wirth.

Amenities There were complimentary Amorvero toiletries including shampoo, shower gel, body lotion, and soap. There were also cotton balls, tissue, bathrobes, slippers, a blow dryer, and an electronic safe. A minibar offered bottled water, snacks and drinks for purchase. Three bicycles were available for guest use at the hotel. A small sample of Amorvero cologne was quite agreeable.

Facilities The facilities available for guest use included an exercise room, restaurant, beauty salon, meeting rooms, sun terrace on the seventh floor and bar.

Fitness Center There was a 100-square meter fitness center available for guest use.

Conference Facilities Meeting rooms could accommodate from 15 to 150 guests. There were two main public rooms, the Salone Medici and the Sala Capre on the ground floor of the Hotel which faced the Palm Court and outdoor gardens. They could accommodate between 100 and 150 guests depending on the set-up style. Another meeting room capable of holding up to 70 guests, the Sala Sistina, was outfitted with audiovisual equipment, picture screens, overhead and slide-projectors.

Other The Hotel, a member of The Leading Small Hotels of the World and Swiss International Hotels, was mentioned in the August 2005 issue of Esquire magazine as number two among “The Esquire 10” and “The View from the Hotel Hassler.” The Hassler was also listed in the Travel and Leisure 2005 “Top 50 Romantic Places in the World.”

Smoking was not allowed in the common areas. The business center, located on the second floor, had two computers, a fax, printer and high speed Internet connectivity.

Because the Hassler’s restaurant was full the night I wanted to dine there, I was able to visit and dine at the neighbouring Palazzetto, a charming 16 century Roman palazzo which was completely renovated in 2002. In addition to four luxurious rooms, it housed a gourmet restaurant situated in the indoor eno-gastronomical library, an outdoor garden (where I dined) available as restaurant space or for private functions, a wine bar and lounge, and an inviting terrace with a view of the famous Piazza di Spagna. The ground floor hosted the headquarters of the International Wine Academy of Rome www.wineacademyroma.com which offered wine tasting courses and events.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review September 2005

ReviewersArticle and photos by Elena del Valle

Would You Stay There Again? Yes