Overall Impression Widely recognized for over a century as one of the crown jewels of the much-vaunted Amalfi coast, the Santa Caterina Hotel has consistently garnered so many accolades from the travel press, industry rating organization and its own delighted guests that I approached it with the highest of expectations. All of which were surpassed by the time I was ushered into my suite.

The property was stunning. Built into a rock face rising from the Tyrrhenian Sea, it was a series of terraced citrus groves and lush gardens that started along Almalfi Drive to cascade down a 60 meters (200 feet) vertical drop, all the way to the water’s edge with its salt water swimming pool and private beach (with elevators as well as stairs to circulate between levels). The hotel was a striking classic Mediterranean-style villa, with vaulted ceilings and light-filled open spaces turned toward the Gulf of Salerno. All the common areas as well as my own suite had pale Vietri Majolica tile floors enhanced by hand-painted floral motives. The white walls and ceilings provided an understated backdrop for the antique furniture and artworks interspersed throughout. Everywhere, the walls facing the sea were lined with arched French doors opening onto serene terraces with panoramic views of the sea and sky melting into a bright blue horizon.

I loved the refined elegance of my suite with its soaring ceilings, lovely antique accents and full height glass wall that opened onto a verdant oversized terrace; and the miles of rich fuchsia Pierre Frey heavy silk taffeta that draped the sleeping area and glass outer wall. Then there was the glorious bathroom. With its vaulted frosted glass ceiling, a Majolica seascape fresco above the oversized circular Jacuzzi bathtub and lavish toiletries, it had the allure of a private spa.

But beyond the breathtaking natural surroundings and the refined elegance of the décor, what made the Santa Caterina truly unique was its home-like atmosphere and the excellence of its service. “This is our family home, our daily life,” explained Giuseppina (Giusi) Gambardella, owner of the property with her sister Carmela, “it has been for four generations. The furniture is our own family’s antiques. And we personally oversee every detail of the decoration.” I mentioned how impressed I was with the service. Giusi’s face lit up. “Our staff are a part of the family. The Santa Caterina is their life also. Our general manager has been with us for 35 years. He is a personal friend. Others have been with us for two or more generations.” She pointed out the young bellman who had impressed me with his impeccable efficiency and friendliness at check-in time, “his father was with us also, until he recently retired.”

Guests are equally faithful to the Santa Caterina. They come back year after year, and generation after generation. “People who honeymooned here return with their children, and their grandchildren,” Giusi confided. I asked about VIP and celebrity guests. It is after all public knowledge that it was at the Santa Caterina that Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton began their turbulent relationship in the early 1960s during the filming of Cleopatra, and Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt are rumored to have begun their own romance there. But Giusi demured: “all our guests are VIPs to us, and we strictly respect everyone’s privacy equally.” Taking in the late afternoon bustle in the lobby, and every member of the staff attentive and friendly but never overly familiar, I understood the unique strength of the Santa Caterina: the personal commitment of its devoted management and staff to uphold their long tradition of superb hospitably; and the blazing autumn dipping into the Tyrrhenian Sea.

With its exquisite accommodations, warm family atmosphere, flawless service and privileged location in one of the most spectacular spots of the Mediterranean basin, the Santa Caterina Hotel did not merely make my short list of places to revisit or recommend to friends traveling to the area. It propelled itself to my personal list of ‘five favorite places on the planet.’”

Children Welcome Yes

Class Of Accommodation Five star luxury hotel

Concierge Franco Cavalieri

Connectivity There was full mobile phone reception and reliable complimentary high speed WiFi in my suite and in the common areas, an especially notable feat considering the challenging multi-level topography and rock construction of the property.

General Manager Armando Di Palma

Handicapped Access Some rooms were suitable for motion-impaired guests. However, due the cliffside location, some areas of the hotel were not wheel chair accessible.

Hotel Manager Andrew Camera

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location In Amalfi, on the Gulf of Salerno, in the Campania region of southwestern Italy. Naples was 50 kilometers (30 miles) to the north, with Naples Airport a 90-minute drive from the property.

Owned-Managed The Gambardella family has owned and managed the property for four generations.

Pets Allowed No

Size The property had 66 guest rooms, including 29 suites. It employed a staff of 120 including 41 restaurant personnel.

Year Opened-Renovated Giuseppe Gambardella constructed the original structure as a private villa in 1880. In 1904, his son Crescenzo redesigned the property and created the original six guestrooms. The next two generations of Gambardellas gradually brought it to its present standing. The latest renovation was in 2010.

Lobby And Common Areas The entire property was designed to make the most of its exceptional surroundings. All interior spaces other than the lobby had a southern orientation facing the sea. Walls of oversized picture windows and French doors opened onto terraces to take advantage of every instant of daylight. The Majolica-tiled floors dotted with hand-painted patches of flowers and arched ceilings enhanced by streams of climbing ivy completed the tranquil indoor-outdoor feel, while antique furniture and original artworks gave the space a mellow inviting atmosphere. The spacious lobby set the tone with gracious sitting arrangements upholstered in shades of cinnabar and gold scattered along the walls, most notably a bergère sofa paired with pie-crust top occasional tables and a carved-back art nouveau settee near a display armoire that held a collection of delicate period porcelains. A long mahogany reception desk occupied the rear of the room.

Bouquets of fresh flowers and cascading green plants enhanced the lived-in feel. The lounge occupied the right half of the property facing the sea, with the dining room to its left. A curved sandstone bar separated the two areas. In the lounge, twin 19th century mahogany sofas upholstered in Pierre Frey jacquard in various shades of green were lined against the interior wall. Mahogany pedestal occasional tables held posies of fresh flowers. A fine collection of watercolors and etchings of the area hung behind the sofas. Along the glassed-in exterior wall, groupings of overstuffed rolled arm sofas upholstered in white damask and matching armchairs were arranged around small tea tables. Translucent white curtain panels gently filtered the southern light. Bright green toss pillows and exuberant green plants completed the décor to give the space the feel of a country garden room.

On a lower level, a covered terrace overhanging the water was carved into the cliff. Its white-plastered pillars were covered with a jumble of blooming purple bougainvillea. The terrace was furnished with teak armchairs with ecru canvas cushions clustered around circular coffee tables draped in matching cloth under heavy plate glass tops. Throughout the property wrought iron bistro chairs were randomly lined along the fieldstone paths that meandered along the citrus groves.

Bathroom The bathroom was remarkable for its size (11.5 square meters or 125 square feet) as well as it superb fixtures and elegant décor. Its vaulted ceiling was lined with backlit unpolished glass. The floor and lower part of the walls were covered in rose ceramic, as was the extra long vanity top. The built-in dual sinks, bidet, commode and circular corner Jacuzzi were of white porcelain. The large recessed shower with high-pressure rain showerhead was tiled in deep rose mosaic. A wall-size mirror hung above the vanity. The walls above the Jacuzzi were covered with a hand painted tile panorama that represented a wisteria-shaded patio overlooking a Mediterranean seascape. Next to it, a heated towel rack with a generous supply of oversized bath towels hung on the plastered wall.

Room My 45 square meter (455 square foot) light-filled suite, Number 87, was located two levels below the main common areas. The white plastered walls and high vaulted ceilings, and pale grey tile floor decorated with clusters of wisteria in the foyer and living area provided an understated setting for the striking floor to ceiling fuchsia silk draperies which separated the living and sleeping areas. In the foyer, an antique vanity table with a marble top and carved rectangular mirror held a large fresh flower arrangement in shades of hot pinks and mauves, coordinated to the overall color scheme. The living area occupied the front of the suite. A pair of oversized double sliding doors opened onto the terrace. Living room furniture included a mahogany key hole desk and Queen Anne desk chair, a tall chest that served as a base for a large LCD television screen, and against the rough field stone far wall, a rolled arm sofa covered in white canvas. In front of the sofa, a gilded rectangular Queen Anne coffee table held a bowl of fresh fruit and a plate of freshly baked cookies. The toss pillows on the sofa, desk chair seat and draperies tiebacks were covered in heavy cotton jacquard in shades of fuchsia and jade in a striped Bargello-like design on a cream background.

To the right of the living area, a door leading to a walk-in dressing room was painted with a bright mural of a whimsical flower garden reminiscent of the 19th century Nabis (French post-impressionist) style. In the sleeping area, the king-size headboard and accent pillows were upholstered in similar Bargello design as the living room accents. A large seascape watercolor in a gilded frame hung above it. There were spindle leg two-drawer bedside tables on both sides of the bed. Throughout the suite, gilded bronze wall sconces with silk half-drum shades provided lighting. The vast (32 square meters or 345 square feet) garden-like private terrace had a large square table tiled in a grapevine design and two teak armchairs. There were also two comfortable folding teak and bright blue canvas lounge chairs. However, the best feature of the terrace was the intoxicating sea view that extended to the faint outline of the far side of the Gulf of Salerno melting into the horizon.

Food And Restaurants The property had a number of dining options, starting with a sumptuous breakfast buffet served it its formal Santa Caterina restaurant. Lunch and dinner were also served there. See separate review. Additionally, from May to October, a full luncheon menu was served at Al Mare, a covered patio overlooking the pool. During the day, the poolside Beach Club bar offered a variety of sandwiches and appetizers as well as smoothies and bar drinks.

Amenities Room amenities included a welcome bottle of chilled Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine), fresh fruit basket, fresh flower arrangement, electronic safe, CD and DVD player, and a selection of daily newspapers in Italian, English, French and German on demand. Bathroom amenities included bathrobes and slippers, magnifying mirror, two hairdryers (wall-hung and hand-held), bathroom scale, facial tissues, cotton pads and swabs, nail file, feminine hygiene gel, disposable razor and shaving cream. Toiletries were Thé Blanc by Bvlgari in individual sizes of hand-milled soap, bath salt, bath gel and shampoo, hair conditioner and body lotion.

Facilities There were two restaurants, the Santa Caterina and Al Mare, a lounge, two bars, La Terrazza and the Beach Club, spa and fitness center, swimming pool, conference facility and a basic business center

Fitness Center And Spa A fitness center and spa were located on one of the lower levels of the property. In addition to fitness equipment, the health club included a sauna and steam room. The spa had two private treatment rooms where it offered a menu of massages, facials and body treatments.

Pool Set in a concrete terrace at the base of the cliff, the seawater pool was three meters wide by 18 meters long (10 by 60 feet) with depths ranging from 1.10 to 2.20 meters (or 3.6 to 7.2 feet). From there, six steps let down to a lower terrace with a few more steps ending in the water for easy sea bathing. Both terraces were lined with teak lounge chairs separated by small side tables and shaded by white canvas umbrellas. Pool assistants were always on hand with fresh towels.

Cleanliness Excellent. The attention to detail on the part of the household staff was remarkable. Not only was my suite immaculate at all times (as were all the common areas) but I was amazed to realize that, as the stargazer lilies in my flower arrangement gradually opened, the household staff was routinely clipping off the emerging yellow pollen anthers (known to be allergenic to some people).

Date Of Review October 2012

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service My room was serviced twice daily. Every member of the staff with whom I came in contact during my stay was thoughtful and attentive to my preferences, and delivered superb personalized service.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Art Deco? That was the last thing that would have come to my mind when thinking of Rome, until my most recent visit to the Eternal City. It was for its location rather than its design that the Hotel Mediterraneo first caught my attention. I was to arrive by train for a three-day stopover between two legs of an extended tour of the region, with no other plans than just being in Rome, to wander around and soak up the atmosphere. The Mediterraneo was 250 meters (820 feet) from Stazione di Roma Termini, the main railway station and public transportation hub in the city; and within reasonable walking distance from the most popular landmarks including Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica, the Coliseum, Forum, Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona, Via Veneto and the Piazza di Spania (and its famous Spanish Steps). The location seemed ideal for my purpose, and it proved to be. But it was the grand, impeccably preserved Art Deco property itself that made my short stay in Rome a memorable experience.

Designed in 1936 by Mario Loreti, a foremost Italian architect of the era, and completed in 1942, it is considered one of the finest examples of Art Deco architecture and rationalist design in Rome. From the moment I entered the lobby with its exotic woods paneling and soaring polished marble columns flanked by busts of Roman emperors, I felt transported into a glamorous 1930s movie set. I would not have been overly surprised to see Fred Astaire materialize at the top of the imposing marble staircase. The Mediterraneo maintained its Art Deco persona throughout its monumental public areas. In the lounge, a parchment map of an ancient perspective of the Mediterranean Sea occupied an entire wall, while the opposite one was covered with an intricate marquetry mural of an allegorical scene. In the dining room, an exquisite wall-size tapestry-like mosaic evoked a medieval hunt. However, the most unique feature of the property was the Roof Garden Restaurant and Terrace. Built high on the Esquiline Hill, the highest of Rome’s seven hills, the ten-story, 50 meter (165 foot) high Mediterraneo was the tallest building in the center of the city. Its spectacular view swept across the rooftops, from the twin domes of nearby Santa Maria Maggiore all the way across town to San Pietro in Vaticano (San Peter). It was my favorite spot to linger, especially at dusk when far above the bustle of the city, I could sip a Spritz (local cocktail made of dry white wine, sparking water and bitter Aperol) while watching the sun set over the Vatican.

In pleasing contrast with the majestic and somewhat austere public spaces characteristic of the Art Deco style, my suite was a cozy urban retreat I looked forward to return to after a day of roaming around the city. While the original elaborate woodworks, built-in furniture and sober décor had been meticulously preserved, the suite had modern amenities, including double glazed windows and electric shutters, individually controlled air-conditioning, large widescreen television and contemporary marble-clad bathroom.

I liked the location of the Hotel Mediterraneo, in a lived-in neighborhood with easy access to the major touristic sites of the city, and its distinctive old world atmosphere. And best of all, I enjoyed the elegance and comfort of my light-filled suite, a relaxing home away from home that I will keep in mind for future visits to Rome.

Children The Mediterraneo welcomed children of all ages.

Class Of Accommodation Four star hotel

Concierge Eugenio Bungaro

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi in my suite and throughout the common areas. Connectivity was reliable in the common areas but erratic in my suite.

Handicapped Access Yes

Hotel Manager Claudio Garbo

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location Conveniently located in the center of Rome, the Mediteranneo was within reasonable walking distance from most of the popular monuments in the city. It was also a five-minute walk to the Termini central train station, bus terminal and subway, making it especially easy to get around via public transportation. For air travelers, the train shuttle between the Leonardo da Vinci/Fiumicino airport and the center of the city was also a few steps from the hotel.

Owned / managed Bettoja Hotels, one of the oldest and largest family-owned hotel groups in Italy for five generations. Chairman was Angelo Bettoja.

Pets Allowed Yes

Size The ten-story property had 251 rooms including seven executive suites and five junior suites. It employed a staff of 60.

Year Opened-Renovated Following a four-year construction effort, the property opened in 1942. It was the object of on-going meticulous renovations and upkeep to preserve its original Art Deco character.

Lobby And Common Areas Beautifully preserved in their original 1930s style, the common areas had the monumental proportions and slick design of those times. Highly polished taupe marble and precious woods dominated the décor. Cut crystal and bronze sconces and bowl chandeliers provided the lighting, while daylight streamed from tall windows. In the lobby, the wood-paneled reception desk topped in cocoa marble occupied the entire side wall. Above it, a geometric wood frame interspersed with hammered brass inlays held rectangular opaque glass panels. On the opposite side of the lobby, period elevators were flanked by half-flights of marble stairs leading to the lounge, bar and restaurants. In the lounge, plush burgundy carpeting and curvaceous armchairs upholstered in crimson, jade and mauve textured velvets added warmth to the décor. In a corner, built into a wall of white-veined taupe marble, the concave wood-paneled fireplace had an intricate marquetry awning. The hearth was outlined in deep green marble. On both sides of the fireplace, busts of Roman emperors stood under tall bronze sconces. In the next room, the semi-circular bar with its rich golden alabaster countertop was surrounded by hunter green leather barstools with gleaming brass footrests. Around wooden spindle-leg tables, black leather armchairs with lacquered bentwood armrests offered more intimate seating.

Bathroom Mercifully, at the Mediterraneo, the exacting attention to early 20 century authenticity stopped at the door to the bathroom. Here the floor, walls and vanity top were contemporary polished travertine marble. And the latest high-end white porcelain fixtures prevailed, including commode, bidet, built-in sink and oversize bathtub with in-tub adjustable height or hand-held showerhead and a swinging glass panel to contain the water within the tub. There was a wall size mirror above the vanity. Lighting was recessed in the ceiling.

Room Located on the ninth floor of the ten-story property, and graced with a southwestern orientation, my sun-filled 34 square meter (365 square foot) junior suite, Number 916, had an exceptional view of the city. The suite consisted of three cozy rooms laid out in enfilade, starting with the corner sitting room. The bedroom was in the center, followed by the dressing room and bath. There were burgundy carpeting and cream-glazed walls throughout. All upholstered pieces as well as the king size bed skirt and quilted coverlet were olive green textured velvet. The four tall windows had heavy floor-to-ceiling taffeta draperies in broad aubergine, olive and mauve stripes, trimmed with green fringe that matched the tasseled tieback ropes. Brass sconces with silk shades provided the lighting. In the sitting room, a Parsons-style sofa stood in a shallow mirrored alcove, with two matching barrel armchairs, a rectangular mahogany coffee table and a side table holding a flowered china lamp completing the sitting arrangement.

The most notable features of the room were the original built-in writing desk, bookcases and drawers fitted between the windows of the exterior walls. A grouping of framed etchings of ancient Roman monuments hung on the wall. In both the sitting room and bedroom, a large widescreen television sat on a metal and glass credenza in front of the window. In addition to the king size bed flanked by two round wood and glass side tables, bedroom furniture included a dressing table and chair in a mirrored alcove, recessed shelving above a built-in cabinet that concealed a mini-bar, and on the exterior wall, on both sides of the window, built-in storage drawers and shelves that matched those in the sitting room. A set of framed contemporary prints of harlequins added a whimsical touch. Other than the addition of a contemporary suite hanger and trouser press, the dressing room had fully retained its Art Deco personality with a kidney-shaped mirrored-top brass dressing table skirted in jade silk, black lacquered and brass chair and free-form wall hung mirror. The entire back wall was a paneled mahogany armoire made to accommodate the traveling wardrobe of a bygone era.

Food And Restaurants The day began at the Sala Taverna breakfast room on the ground floor of the property with an abundant buffet of fresh fruit, cereals, breads, freshly baked croissants and breakfast cakes, assorted yoghurts, boiled eggs, sliced cheeses and cold cuts. The room décor was reminiscent of an ancient tavern with a nautical theme. Carved corbels representing mermaid and tritons figureheads held heavy ceiling beams and wrought iron wall sconces and overhead light fixtures had a similar mermaid and triton ornamentation.

Also on the ground floor were the Lobby Bar and Ristorante 21, a small formal restaurant that served gourmet Italian cuisine for lunch and dinner. Its back wall was covered with a stunning mosaic fresco of a hunting scene. My personal favorite spot for cocktails and dinner was the lovely Roof Garden Restaurant and Bar and its glorious terrace with a panoramic view of the city. Day or night, the glassed-in dining room with its flowered chintz drapes, white painted armchairs and tables clad in cinnabar floor-length cloths with white linen overlays felt like a romantic sky-high garden room. The menu was a mix of Roman and international dishes. I especially enjoyed the bresaola appetizer, a carpaccio of aged air-dried beef served on a bed of peppery arugula with a balsamic reduction, a portion so generous that it could have been a light entrée. The fresh pasta with garlicky sautéed shrimp and zucchini that followed was equally delicious. In brief, everything that my friend and I sampled there was beautifully prepared from the freshest ingredients and made for a pleasing dining experience. In addition to hotel guests, the Roof Garden welcomed local diners for lunch and dinner. It was a popular place where reservations were strongly recommended.

Amenities In room amenities included an electric kettle with tea and coffee service, bottled mineral water, a generous welcome fruit basket, electronic safe, sewing kit, shoe horn and shoe polish sponge and a trouser press. Bathroom amenities included bathrobes and slippers, magnifying mirror, hairdryer, bathroom scale, facial tissues, cotton pads and swabs, fingernail file, oral hygiene kit and shower cap. Individual house brand toiletries of shampoo, shower gel, facial cleanser, bath salts and body moisturizing lotion.

Facilities There were three restaurants, a bar, a basic business center and a fitness room.

Fitness Center And Spa There was a small fitness center with basic exercise equipment.

Conference Facilities The Hotel Mediterraneo could accommodate up to 150 in four conference rooms.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review October 2012

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service The room was serviced daily. Every member of the staff I encountered during my stay was professional and efficient.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression As is the case in most densely visited area anywhere, Italy’s Amalfi Coast abounds with local eateries eager to introduce hungry tourists to the local fare. On a recent visit to the area, it quickly became obvious that although the quality of food and service could vary wildly, menus were virtually interchangeable from one restaurant to the next; until I reached the Santa Caterina Restaurant. Located in the legendary five-star hotel that gave it its name, this superb formal restaurant welcomed its guests with the same flawless service, exquisite décor and eye popping views of the Amalfi coastline that have made the property famous for over a century. And best of all was Chef Domenico Cuomo’s menu: classic southern Italian cuisine, created from the freshest local ingredients and fish just out of the Tyrrhenian Sea. There were also sublime pasta dishes, homemade of course, the likes of which I hadn’t tasted since my Tuscan paternal grandmother made them for me when I was a child.

I was not surprised to discover that Chef Cuomo was for years regularly invited as a visiting chef to noted restaurants around the world, from New York’s Drake and Plaza hotels to Dubay’s Metropolitan.

Although it was visibly a big hit with the hotel guests, the Santa Caterina Restaurant equally welcomed lunch and dinner visitors, and has long been a favorite among area gourmets. “We always come here at least once, whenever we are in the area,” explained a couple that happened to leave the restaurant as I did. “We live in Rome, but we have a place down the coast. For us, the Santa Caterina is the best restaurant in Amalfi,” the wife volunteered; “one of the best on the entire coast,” her husband concurred.

As popular wisdom goes, just ask the locals. I will definitely follow their lead and plan to dine at the Santa Caterina whenever I revisit the area. And recommend it as a mandatory stop to traveling friends who want to experience elegant Italian cuisine and gracious service in the grand Amalfitana tradition.

About The Executive Chef A life-long resident of Furore, a remote village that clings to the rocky cliffs between Amalfi and Salerno, Domenico Cuomo knew from the tender age of 15, when he started with a summer apprenticeship with a local resort restaurant, that he was meant to be a chef. He went on to hone his skills with increasingly responsible positions in ever better-noted restaurants of the region before taking over the top job at the Santa Caterina in 1990. Along the way he also earned top honors in scores of national and international competitions in Italy and the Germanic countries. Through it all Chef Cuomo stayed true to his culinary roots: straightforward creations based on traditional dishes, using only the highest quality locally sourced products, and his own considerable skills and creativity (although he would be too modest to admit the latter).

Executive Chef Domenico Cuomo

Handicapped Access Yes. The restaurant was fully wheel-chair accessible.

Location On the main public areas level of the Santa Caterina Hotel in Amalfi, on southwestern Italy’s Gulf of Salerno. It was 50 kilometers (30 miles) south of Naples and 30 kilometers (19 miles) south of Sorrento.

Opened-Renovated The property first opened in 1904. The most recent renovation was in 2010.

Owned-Managed The Gambardella family has owned and managed the property for four generations.

Pastry Chef Roberto Ricco

Restaurant Manager Giuseppe (Pino) Francese

Size The dining room could accommodate a maximum of 220 guests. It employed a staff of 41.

Sommelier Luca Amato

Type Of Restaurant Luxury gourmet dining specializing in southern Italian cuisine.

DÉCor-Ambiance The Santa Caterina Restaurant took full advantage of its spectacular location to delight guest with its surroundings as well as its cuisine. Perched on the main level of the property, on a rocky ledge 60 meters (200 feet) above the sea, it offered a sweeping view of the Gulf of Salerno and the historic center of Amalfi. The floor was a rare marine-blue veined marble that recalled the sky and sea beyond its arched glass walls, as did the round dining tables draped in floor-length deep blue cloths with crisp white linen overlays. Dining chairs were bleached wood with comfortable caned medallion backs and thickly cushioned seats with white canvas slipcovers. Verdant streams of ivy reached out of large ceramic tubs to climb up to the white plaster vaulted ceiling. In the daytime, the room felt like a sunny garden floating between sky and sea. At night, when all the tables were aglow with pillar candles in sparkling hurricane lamps and dancing candle light brushed the tall Riedel stem glasses and gleaming silverware of the table settings, the room became an exquisitely romantic space, with each table an intimate haven.

Cellars Wine And Alcoholic Beverage Selection The impressive 600 labels wine list featured a wide selection of southern Italian wines as well as other wine-growing regions of Italy and France. It offered some local favorites by the glass including a lovely Prosecco (a crisp northern Italian sparkling wine) that I especially enjoyed as an aperitif. A selection of bar drinks was also available.

Meal We enjoyed several meals at the Santa Caterina Restaurant. Since my preferences tend to go toward local specialties and fish dishes, I was delighted with the menu on both counts. However, for guests who preferred meat, I noticed several interesting options as well. Highlights of my meals included a superb dish of ravioli filled with chopped zucchini and fresh buffalo Ricotta cheese, served with a creamy lemon sauce (Amalfi lemons are reputed throughout and beyond Italy for their rich sweet flavor). A lightly baked local sea bass fillet served on a crisp potato pancake with baby vegetable and glazed cherry tomatoes proved a perfect choice for a satisfying rainy-day lunch.

Especially memorable was our last dinner when our attentive Maitre d’hotel, Pino, suggested a “local traditional fish stew. It’s not on the menu but I think you will like it.” We acquiesced of course, and were treated to a medley of shrimps, clams, several kinds of fish and cubed vegetables in a rich consomé-like stock. The dish was served en croute, steamed to perfection in a heavy, individual crockery pot under a delicious herbed pastry crust. With it, the sommelier recommended Furore Bianco Fiorduva, a fragrant, full-bodied local white wine. Then came the coup-de-grace. We hadn’t given any advanced thought to dessert, but Pino had. He suggested another local specialty “Il soufflé al gusto Amalfitano”, or Amalfi-style lemon soufflé. How could he have guessed that lemon soufflé is one my favorite desserts? I wondered. Apparently, mind-reading is part of the service at the Santa Caterina. Pino had quietly pre-ordered the soufflé (said on the menu to require 50 minutes’ notice). It arrived within instants, golden and sky-high, with its decadent lemon-flavored creme Anglaise accompaniment. And to top off this perfect meal, it was paired with a glass of Vino Santo, the Italian nectar-of-the gods answer to the French vendange tardive dessert wines.

Date Of Most Recent Review October 2012

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service The service was flawless, attentive and friendly while remaining unobtrusive, and precisely orchestrated with all the decorum of a bygone era.

Would You Dine There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression With seven generations of experience in the hotel business, the Sanoner family, who own Adler Thermae Spa & Relax Resort Tuscany in Italy, know a thing or two about running a high end luxury spa resort. The primary aim of the resort is for guests to relax, unwind and feel rejuvenated. Based on our experience, and the fact that 80 percent of their guests are habitual visitors returning two or three times a year, they do this very well.

When one of the owners, Klaus Sanoner, hurt his back his doctor suggested visiting the thermal baths in Tuscany for the healing elements of the mineral-rich waters. Following doctor’s orders, he was quickly enamored with the region’s beautiful surroundings and the thermal waters that were effective in his healing process. He thought it would be a perfect location to open another Sanoner family-owned luxury spa resort.

Built into a hillside within the Val D’Orcia region of Tuscany, a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site thanks to its beautiful landscape, the 90-room spa resort is situated in the heart of the Tuscan countryside and surrounded by picturesque rolling hills. As avid spa lovers, the Sanoner family have visited numerous spas around the world, and Adler Thermae Spa & Relax Resort Tuscany is a mixture of their favorite features that they have experienced as guests.

Some of our favorite aspects of the resort were the idyllic location with views that inspire relaxation and restoration, an attractive décor that tastefully mixed Tuscan villa charm with a clean modern feel, numerous exercise facilities that made working out thoroughly enjoyable, an impressive menu of spa treatments executed by dedicated and talented staff (I had three fantastic spa treatments and appreciated that the body products they used were made from organic ingredients), healthy food options with local fresh produce at breakfast and dinner, outstanding personable service, and complimentary goodies such as robes, flip flops and welcome cocktails. While unquestionably an upscale spa resort, I liked that the atmosphere was laid-back, unpretentious and family friendly.

Children Children of all ages were welcome at the hotel. The only restriction was that children had to be at least 12 years old to enter the spa treatment area, which included the sauna and steam rooms. Children under 12 had to be accompanied by an adult in the fitness areas.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury spa resort

Concierge The front desk staff provided concierge services; they were friendly and helpful throughout our stay.

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi in our room, as well as complimentary access to a computer in the lobby. We were given an individualized password for Internet access. On the first day, we had fast and consistent connectivity and intermittent connectivity on days two and three.

General Manager Anton Picher

Handicapped Access The hotel welcomed handicapped guests. There was an elevator in the lobby, as well as the option to use the hotel’s mobile ramp in areas of the hotel with stairs. Four of the guestrooms were equipped for guests with wheelchairs, and the spa treatment rooms were wide enough for wheelchairs to pass through them. The only area where wheelchairs were not allowed was in the sauna, steam rooms and thermal pools, due to hygiene issues that the wheels presented. The staff indicated that they frequently had guests with disabilities since the thermal waters were considered healthy for bones and joints, and guests with disabilities were lifted into the thermal waters by staff members when needed.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location In the town of Bagno Vignoni in Tuscany, the nearest international airports were Florence (approximately one and a half hours away), Rome (two hours away), and Pisa (two and a half hours away). From Siena, an hour’s drive away, we were picked up by a private car service that the hotel had arranged for us. On our return to Florence, we paid 60 euros for a private car service (arranged by the hotel) to the town of Chiusi, which was roughly 45 minutes from the hotel, followed by a 45-minute train ride to Florence (17 Euros per person). It did not bother us that the train experienced delays because we found the journey to be an enjoyable way to take in the beautiful Tuscan countryside.

Owned And Managed The Sanoner family

Pets Allowed No

Size There were 90 rooms spread out over two floors on the 15 acre property. The hotel had 127 staff members, of which 42 worked in the spa.

Year Opened-Renovated Adler Thermae Spa & Relax Resort Tuscany opened in 2004. Each January, the resort shuts down for maintenance and upkeep of its facilities. The most recent additions to the hotel in January of 2012 included the poolside osteria, the outdoor fitness area and bocce ball area. In January 2013, hotel executives planned to add 10 new suites, a new restaurant and a relaxation room.

Lobby And Common Areas Blending in with its surroundings, simply and tastefully decorated, the resort building resembled a villa from the region. The outdoor entrance of the hotel had beautifully-landscaped bright colored flowers, green plants and cypress trees that nicely offset the red-tiled rooftop and the neutral hues of the resort. The sun-filled lobby had a contemporary Tuscan villa feel with white travertine marble floors and walnut wood panels on select walls. While the lobby was busy at times, the open space, simple decor and light coloring lent it a calm atmosphere. Paintings by artist Elly Sanoner, the matriarch of the Sanoner family, could be found throughout the resort’s corridors.

Bathroom Our bathroom was about eight square meters and immediately to the right of the entryway. In the main area of the bathroom there was a large mirror over the sink, toiletries, and an oversized bathtub big enough to accommodate two average-sized adults. I had an opulent bath one night, reclining in bubbles while watching the sunset colors change over the distant Tuscan hills through the window immediately above the tub. The bathroom also had a separate room for the toilet and bidet, and another room for the shower, which had a dispenser of Adler Spa red grape shower gel made from local products.

Room Our room was attractive and comfortable and we enjoyed spending time in it. The first thing I noticed when we opened the door to room 328 was the stunning view of the Tuscan countryside, with a Medieval military tower on the top of the highest visible peak. Our second floor 35 square-meter Superior Double Room faced the pool area of the hotel and had sliding glass doors that led to a small balcony. The entryway had green carpeting and immediately to the left was a closet hidden by mirrored French doors. In the middle of the room were two twin beds pushed together to make one oversized bed with individual duvet covers. We found the bed to be firm but comfortable. Adding a distinct flair, above the bed was a tastefully hand-painted fresco of the Tuscan countryside by Georg Mahlknecht da Palmer, the father-in-law of one of the hotel owners. Opposite the fresco was a flat screen television with 38 channels in numerous languages including Italian, German, English, French and Spanish. Just past the sleeping area was a small wooden step that led to the sitting area, which housed a wooden desk, chair, small sofa, chair and table. The sunny air-conditioned room was spacious, comfortable, and attractive, with tasteful echos of a contemporary Tuscan villa in coloring and decor. What really set it apart for us were the glorious views of the Tuscan countryside from the bedroom and bathroom.

Food And Restaurants Our half board accommodations included breakfast and dinner (excluding drinks) at the Starlight Roof Restaurant, which was one floor above the lobby and run by Chef Gaetano Vaccaro. Breakfast was served from 7:30 a.m. until 11 a.m., and dinner was served from 7:30 p.m. until 9:30 p.m. Upon entering the restaurant in the evening, we were escorted to a table in the far corner from the entrance, our designated table for the next two nights. I was pleased to be near several windows that offered lovely views of the countryside at sunset.

The restaurant, which seated up to 210 guests, aimed to deliver healthy cuisine made from high quality local ingredients. Our waiter, Cristiano, placed the wine menu on our table, and rightfully joked that it was more like a wine bible. The house brick of a book included over 550 wines, all of which were Italian with the exception of French champagne. On the first night, I had a delicious red wine from the neighboring town of Montalcino, which was well known for its high quality wines. On the second night, Cristiano offered us a complimentary glass of Revi sparkling wine from Trento in the northeast of Italy made from pinot noir grapes; when I am craving a light and sparkling rosé during the summer, this is exactly what I want. Dinner started with an invitation to visit the buffet that included fresh greens, fruits, locally produced cheeses, and a wide selection of cakes and ice cream for dessert. I liked the bread buffet where I hand-selected a variety of breads (baked in-house) for our table’s bread basket. In addition to the salad bar and dessert buffet, dinner included a four-course a la carte menu, which changed daily

On the first night, I skipped the salad bar and chose plates from the a la carte menu. I had the Soppressata of octopus and prawns on chive potatoes, cream of leek and pumpkin soup, Timbale of couscous and Caponata of vegetables on a tomato puree, and panna cotta for dessert. My husband also started with the octopus and prawns on chive potatoes followed by the risotto with cuttlefish and scallops with cherry tomatoes deglazed with Vernaccia, and the tuna with fennel flavored salmoriglio sauce and crispy courgette sticks. On the second night, I started at the salad bar where I loaded up on local greens, artichokes, sun dried tomatoes, locally produced pecorino cheeses, and beets. For my first plate from the a la carte menu, I chose the mixed mushrooms in a pasta bundle on a parmesan cream, followed by a quiche of potatoes and Asiago. My husband chose the Maccheroncini of the Val d’Orcia with pulp of red scorpion fish and swordfish on fresh tomatoes and aubergines. For his next dish he chose lamb in a spicy bread crust and olives with duchess potatoes and pan-fried Swiss chard. We finished the meal with a tasty 2003 dessert wine from the Bindella winery of Tuscany.

I particularly enjoyed the breakfasts because of the many healthy and flavorful buffet options. I started at the egg station, where one of the chefs cooked up a delicious omelet with vegetables, cheese and ham. I then visited the yogurt and fruit bar where I piled my plate with fresh passion fruit, pineapple, and kiwi and a creamy vanilla yogurt with whole wheat cereal. I skipped the cereal bar that included at least eight different options, but appreciated that there was cow’s milk, soy milk and goat’s milk. Next I went to the crepe station where the chef delivered a perfectly executed crepe that I topped with one of the five locally produced honeys. I picked up a freshly squeezed orange juice on the way to our table where a delicious latte macchiato was waiting for me. I made a mental note to return to the separate juice bar, which included six options of organic juices and a juicer next to a large bowl of fruits and vegetables where guests could make their own concoctions.

The decor of the restaurant, with an open retractable rooftop, was simple and tasteful, and designed to emulate a typical Tuscan plaza. While we enjoyed taking in the sunshine during breakfast, we learned quickly that sunglasses were necessary in the morning if we chose not to sit at a shaded table.

Because we found the breakfast buffet to be so filling, we were never hungry enough to justify eating lunch. The lunch menu, which was a fixed price of 17 euros and included hors d’oeuvres, salads, and a warm dish such as pasta or fish, was served in the osteria next to the pool area.

The maître d’hotel of Starlight Roof Restaurant, Manfredo Venditti, visited our table several times throughout our dining experiences to make sure we were happy and to answer any questions. Through Manfredo I learned that the outstanding restaurant’s herbs came from the hotel’s gardens on the rooftops of the guest rooms. Although the evening dishes were not as rich and sinfully delicious as some of the other meals we had in Italy, overall we had an enjoyable dining experience at Starlight Roof Restaurant and appreciated the numerous healthy options made from local Tuscan produce.

Amenities On the way to our room, the bell hop walked us to the spa area where we picked up two terry cloth white robes selected based on our respective sizes, two large yellow towels, flip flops (ours to take) and an oversized beach bag to use throughout our stay. In our room, a generous basket of fruit and a 45-centiliter bottle of still water was waiting for us in the sitting area. There were also four types of complimentary teas: Adler Spa Re-lax, Adler Spa Legeresse, Adler Spa De-tox and Adler Spa Di-gest. Toiletries included 150 milliliter size bottles of the Adler Spa Honey line of shampoo, conditioner and body lotion. The Adler Spa Resort organic cosmetic line was made with locally produced Tuscan honey. Other amenities included two individual shoe shiners, two shower caps, and cotton tips and two small bars of Adler Spa soaps. There were complimentary fruit and mini-cakes from 4 p.m. to 5 p.m. in the bar and lounge area, and complimentary light nibbles such as pistachios, artichokes and olives just before dinner. On the first night of our stay we went to the bar area and had the option of drinking a glass of Prosecco, a mixed non-alcoholic fruit drink, a Prosecco and Martini rosé mixed drink, or a vodka with grapefruit juice as our complimentary welcome beverage.

There were excursions to local points of interests organized by the hotel, and a Kid’s Club that included activities such as children’s cinema, organized games, local walks and a children’s wellness program.

Facilities Hotel guests had access to: restaurant, poolside osteria, wine cellar and tastings, bar and lounge with an observation area overlooking the Tuscan countryside, indoor and outdoor fitness area, indoor and outdoor thermal pools, outdoor sports pool, children’s pool, spa and relaxation area.

Pools The indoor and outdoor thermal pools were 1.40 meters deep. The children’s pool also had thermal waters but ranged in depth from 30 centimeters to 45 centimeters. Collectively, the three pools added up to about 1,000 square meters. Thermal waters were pumped in from local natural springs and mixed with cooler waters to attain a bathing temperature of 96.8 degrees Fahrenheit. Dating back to Etruscan and Roman times, these mineral-rich thermal waters were believed to have curative powers. In addition to the thermal pools, the 25-meter sports pool was 12.5 meters wide and 1.4 meters deep, with a water temperature of 82.4 degrees Fahrenheit. It was necessary to pay a supplement to enter the Grotta Salina, a separate thermal water pool with salt from the Dead Sea.

Fitness Center And Spa There was an indoor and outdoor fitness area with unobstructed views of the Tuscan countryside. The indoor facilities had a variety of cardio and weight machines, as well as free weights, and an open exercise room where organized classes were held. The resort had an average of six exercise classes a day, including a stationary bicycle class in the pool. The outdoor fitness area included treadmills and stationary bikes just off of the pool area, a 13.5 kilometer outdoor jogging trail through the Tuscan countryside, an all-purpose sports ground including a mini-soccer, basketball, badminton, volleyball, tennis and bocce ball area, an outdoor yoga space, and a ping-pong and table football area. Guests also had the option of utilizing the resort’s mountain bikes at no additional cost.

During our stay, we thoroughly enjoyed swimming laps in the sports pool, admiring the views while using the indoor or outdoor treadmills, jogging on the outdoor trail, and riding bikes in the countryside.

The hotel had a wonderful spa on the premise with 100 spa treatments to choose from. I experienced three excellent treatments and specifically enjoyed the distinctiveness of the Brunello Ritual. The treatment began with a soothing relaxation massage followed up with a hydro massage in which a pitcher’s worth of Brunello wine was poured into the warm bath water to stimulate blood circulation. I was also satisfied with the Poppea Massage, which put me in a relaxed state and my favorite treatment was the Excellence Anti-aging Facial.

The spa had 21 treatment rooms, a Turkish-style steam bath in a cave, sauna rooms, a room specific for rasul clay baths, an underground salt bath, a relaxation area with two floors that housed leather loungers and individual waterbed loungers, a coiffeur and a beauty shop where guests could purchase products made exclusively for Adler Spa Resorts. After spending an afternoon in the Finnish sauna, the Turkish-style steam bath and relaxation area, my husband and I felt noticeably re-energized. The pleasant landscape and architecture of the garden area in which the humidity rooms were located made it easy for us to unwind. Although bathing suits and bathrobes were not allowed in the steam bath and sauna we wrapped up in towels and put our clothing on the hooks hanging immediately outside the humidity rooms.

Other The hotel was recipient of the 2012 Trip Advisor Travelers’ Choice Award.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review June 2012

Reviewers Article by Laura Scheiber

Photos by Matthew James Harris

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression For someone who loves spas as much as I do, Adler Spa felt like a playground of bliss. With approximately 100 treatment options aimed at pampering guests and ranging from signature Adler massages and facials, thermal water treatments unique to the region, to Ayurvedic and oriental treatments, I was initially overwhelmed by the many tempting choices. The knowledgeable staff helped me book three treatments over the phone a week before my arrival that best met my needs and interests. Based on the friendly service I received, I had high expectations of an outstanding spa experience. I was pleased with the treatments.

The spa was located on the ground floor of the Adler Thermae Spa and Relax Resort Tuscany, in the town of Bagno Vignoni, known since Etruscan times for its therapeutic thermal spring waters. I took a sneak peak of the spa facilities while standing in the outside entryway of the hotel, which offered a lovely bird’s eye view of a peaceful and well-manicured outdoor garden built next to a hillside made of travertine marble. Surrounding the top of the travertine walls were brightly colored flowers and plants typical of the region. At the center of the garden was a light green mini lake filled with thermal water that had a wooden footbridge leading to a relaxation area, Finnish sauna, Turkish steam bath and Watsu (treatment area for shiatsu massages in thermal water). The infrastructure of the Tuscan-style villa in which the hotel and spa were housed was made of white travertine marble and walnut wood. The décor, simple yet tasteful, blended a classic Tuscan villa style with a clean modern design.

In the waiting area next to the spa reception desk on the ground floor of the hotel, I enjoyed the views through large glass windows of the hotel’s thermal pool with indoor and outdoor sections, and the breathtaking Tuscan countryside serving as the backdrop.

My first treatment, the Brunello Ritual, was a 45-minute relaxation massage with Tuscan red grape seed oil, followed by a 12-minute soak in a tub filled with bubbling warm water and Brunello wine from Montalcino to enhance blood circulation, followed by 15 minutes of relaxing on a waterbed while nibbling on a plate of four distinct pecorino cheeses and sipping a glass of Brunello wine. At the conclusion of the Brunello Ritual treatment I was mentally and physically relaxed while at the same time I had a feeling of increased blood circulation.

The next day, I had the Poppea Massage, a 50-minute relaxation massage in which the therapist used a deliciously scented cream made from locally produced honey and sheep’s milk, immediately followed by the Excellence Anti-aging Facial. While I enjoyed all three treatments, I was most impressed with the Excellence Anti-aging Facial. On our third day at Adler Thermae Spa and Relax Resort Tuscany, my husband and I visited the sauna and steam rooms surrounding the thermal water lake that I had seen from the entryway of the hotel. By sunset, I had reached a new state of relaxation that I don’t ever remember experiencing before spending time at Adler Spa.

After two consecutive days of spa treatments followed by an afternoon of enjoying the steam and sauna rooms and relaxation area, I left Adler Spa in a strikingly better mental and physical state than when I arrived. Because I wanted to experience treatments unique to the spa and the Tuscan region, I was happy with my choices of the Brunello Ritual, the Poppea massage, and the Excellence Anti-aging Facial treatments, which utilized bio-cosmetics made from local products, as well as ingredients from the Italian Alps. The calming atmosphere, attractive décor, high quality organic products, and the talented staff who seemed genuinely dedicated to providing outstanding treatments made Adler spa a relaxing and unforgettable experience for me.

Handicapped Access The spa welcomed handicapped guests. There was an elevator in the lobby of the hotel with access to the spa one flight down. The spa treatment rooms were wide enough for wheelchairs to pass through them. The only areas where wheelchairs were not allowed was in the sauna, steam rooms and thermal pools due to hygiene issues that the wheels presented. The staff indicated that they frequently had guests with disabilities since the thermal waters were considered healthy for bones and joints, and staff members could lift guests with disabilities into the thermal waters.

Location Within the 15-acre grounds of Adler Thermae Spa and Relax Resort Tuscany

Number Of Staff 42

Owned-Managed The Sanoner family

Size The spa had approximately 3,500 square meters of indoor and outdoor space including indoor and outdoor thermal pools, treatment rooms, relaxation rooms, mini thermal lake, humidity rooms, locker rooms, showers, and front desk area.

Staff Training Maria Bonella Pinzi received the following training: Chiropractic course at the Italian National Association of Prana therapists, Ayurveda Massaggio with Sirio Carrapa Master, Shiatsu School at Zen Monastery Il Cerchio di Milano with Master Tetsugen Serra, Zen Shiatsu School third level at Shin Shiatsu in Abbadia San Salvatore (SI) with Master Libano Rossi, Reiki first and second level, Reflexology at Shin Shiatsu School of Abbadia San Salvatore (SI) with Libano Rossi Master, and Course of Andean-Peruvian Massagewith Curandero H.H. Mamani of Peru.

Veronica Maione studied at the School of Estetician A.M.E Aurea Mediterranea in Cosenza, Italy. She had four years of training in facial treatments and relaxation massage. According to Minnie Romano, spa manager, Adler Spa invests a significant amount of money in additional training for the spa staff. Management constantly keeps an eye on trends and demands in the spa world and when a kind of treatment is in high demand, they have experts in that area come to the spa to offer training to certify the staff in these techniques.

Treatment Rooms The Brunello Ritual took place in a spotlessly clean candlelit room with rich deep colors large enough for couples and bigger than any spa treatment room I had ever seen. It included two massage beds, two bathtubs, a standup shower area and a waterbed for two.

The Poppea massage and Excellence Anti-aging Facial took place in two separate rooms just down the hall from the couples treatment room. In contrast to the windowless couples treatment room, these rooms were filled with natural light that complemented their soft yellow walls. With white shades on the window that provided privacy, these rooms faced the outdoor garden area and were simply but pleasantly designed with walnut-colored wooden floors and white bedding. While the ambience of the first room was dark and enigmatic (but still conducive to relaxing), these rooms were warm yet soothing.

Year Opened-Renovated The spa first opened in 2004 and each January it closes for maintenance and upkeep of its facilities. The management planned to add a relaxation room in January of 2013.

Amenities When we first arrived at Adler Thermae Spa and Relax Resort, we were escorted to the spa area to pick up complimentary terrycloth bathrobes, flip flops (which were ours to take after leaving the hotel), towels, and a large beach bag to carry them. At the entrance of the spa there was a selection of exclusive Adler Spa herbal teas that promoted relaxation, detoxification, and digestion. There was also an elegant water container with dispensers for cold and room temperature still and sparkling water. Next to the water there was a large basket of apples and peaches.

Facilities There were 21 treatment rooms: private massage rooms (one had a Vichy shower), private facial rooms, a couples treatment room, an aromatherapy room, an Aqua Baths room, a Terra body treatment room, a Fango packs room, Ayurvedic treatment rooms, and oriental massage rooms. There was also a steam sauna with Tuscan herbs (the Aremisia), an Etruscan sauna with salt steam (Salino), a Finnish olive wood sauna (Olivae), a Turkish-style steam bath in a cave (Grotta del Filosofo), an underground salt bath (Grotta Salina), a Watsu with thermal water, and a clay bath room (Argillae). There was also a beauty shop where guests could purchase exclusive Adler Spa bio-cosmetics and beauty items made from local products. Outside the immediate spa area, guests had access to the indoor and outdoor gymnasium (with the option of private coaching), a coiffeur, and a manicure and pedicure station.

Pools Spa guests had access to the hotel’s thermal pool with indoor and outdoor sections, the children’s fun pool, and the 25-meter freshwater sports pool. Next to the outdoor pools, guests had the option of paying extra to enter the Salt Water Grotto, a spa treatment, a thermal water pool with Dead Sea salt.

Lockers And Bathrooms There was a small locker room just outside of the waiting area for changing, storing clothes, and showering. A separate shower area with bathrooms was inside the spa en route to the relaxation room, sauna and steam rooms.

Other The spa had been recognized as 2011 World’s Best Spa by Trip Advisor and World’s Best Wine Spa by gayot.com that same year.

While check-out from the hotel was at 11 a.m., we had the option of paying 50 euros per person to access spa facilities for the day, or 100 euros a day to access spa facilities and have access to a hotel room. While it was possible for non-hotel guests to pay 50 euros and book at least one spa treatment in order to access the spa for the day, the hotel staff did not advertise this day spa option because they preferred that hotel guests be the primary clients and have optimal appointment options for spa treatments. Eighty percent of spa guests were repeat hotel guests, staying at the hotel two to three times a year for an average stay of four days.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review June 2012

Number Of Treatments Three

Reviewers Article by Laura Scheiber

Photos by Matthew James Harris

Treatments Experienced The Brunello Ritual, the first treatment I received, began with a 45-minute full body massage. Using a generous amount of red grape seed oil, my massage therapist, Veronica Maione, applied soft pressure in long strokes along my back, arms legs, feet, stomach, feet, chest and head. The time seemed to fly by and because I was in such a relaxed state by the end of the massage, I am not sure how I would have made it from the massage table to the nearby bathtub for my follow-up hydro massage had it not been for Veronica’s help. She made sure my head was comfortably placed against a rolled up towel on the tub’s edge and then added a pitcher of Brunello wine to the bathtub before leaving me to enjoy the effects of the warm water and wine. Bubbles erupted from all directions and cool water sprouted from the bottom of the tub which contrasted in a pleasant way with the warm bath water. About 12 minutes later, another person came in and helped me into my robe and onto a nearby waterbed, leaving a plate of four distinctly-aged pecorino cheeses and a 2007 glass of Brunello from the Conti Costanti Vineyard. I took my time savoring the different flavors of the cheese and appreciated how well each of them went with the Brunello wine. After getting dressed, I sat outside in the garden area in my robe and enjoyed my state of bliss thanks to the Brunello Ritual. A gentle breeze kept me cool while I took in the hot Tuscan sun.

The next day my spa experience began with the Poppea massage. With over 20 years of massage experience, Maria Bonella Pinzi executed a delightful 50-minute Swedish massage using a thick cream made from locally-produced honey and sheep’s milk. Already sold on the delicious scent of the honey fragrance, I later learned that the honey in the cream was aged for at least three years. This meant that it contained concentrated amounts of sugars, which was thought to be good for the skin. I was impressed that Maria Bonella pinpointed my trouble spots without me mentioning them to her.

Already feeling like a loose noodle, my massage was immediately followed up with the Excellence Anti-aging Facial which began with cleansing and toning lotions. Monica, the same person who gave me a massage during the Brunello Ritual, gently massaged my face with a thick cream that had a high concentration of melatonin. At this point I started drifting off because her massage technique was so soothing. A few minutes later, she applied a skin masque that also had a high concentration of melatonin. After the masque, Monica applied a special skin serum and a melatonin-rich cream. Integrated into the facial was a fantastic head and foot massage. I was out cold by the end of the treatment. Monica is a talented massage and facial therapist with a special touch conducive to relaxation. Part of the reason she impressed me was because she seemed to truly enjoy her work and appeared dedicated to ensuring I had excellent treatments.

Would You Return? Yes

Overall Impression We arrived at the Relais Santa Croce from the Florence train station in the pouring rain. As soon as the taxi stopped at the hotel entrance, a helpful doorman took charge of our luggage and directed us up one flight of wide stairs (there was also an elevator) to reception. Once we dispensed with the check-in formalities someone showed us around the family friendly hotel and escorted us to our Junior Suite where we quickly shed our rain gear. Although we did not see much of the sun during our three night stay in the Renaissance city we enjoyed our visit, in great part, thanks to the quiet and comfort of our accommodations.

Exploring the city on foot in rainy weather was best done in short excursions. This meant that we spent more time in our room and at the hotel than we had initially expected. Fortunately our hotel was up to the challenge. The common areas were beautiful and our Junior Suite included complimentary internet access. Except at breakfast we seldom saw or heard other guests. It felt luxuriously, at times, as if we were the only guests in the former noble palace.

The small hotel was ideally situated on Via Ghibelina, a long and quiet street just to the side the main tourist areas, providing us quick access to the city’s famous landmarks on foot while remaining outside the really congested areas. We also appreciated the hotel’s intimate and serene ambiance, buffet breakfast and elegant décor.

Children The hotel welcomed children of all ages.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury boutique hotel in the five-star luxe category.

Concierge Francesca Lotti

Connectivity At our request the staff provided us an ADSL cable when we arrived (the first one we received was too short to reach from the wall plug to the desk and they immediately sent a longer cable) to connect from out notebook computer on the desk to the internet. Access was complimentary. In addition, there were two computers on the ground floor of the hotel for guest use.

Handicapped Access According to a spokesperson, “Yes, features as per EU legislation.”

Hotel Manager Eugenio Rigo

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location In the Santa Croce neighborhood of Florence within a few minutes walk from the Duomo, Uffizi Gallery, and Pitti Palace. The hotel is between the cathedral and Basilica of Santa Croce.

Managed Baglioni Hotels Spa

Owned Roberto Polito

Pets Allowed The hotel welcomed dogs and cats only (not bigger than a cocker spaniel)

Size The multi-story hotel had 24 rooms and suites and employed up to 35 staff members depending on the season.

Year Opened-Renovated It first opened as a hotel in 2007. In 2009, the property was purchased by Baglioni Hotels Spa. The property was recently renovated. The artisans paid special attention to original architectural features, precious metals, period furniture and frescoes.

Lobby And Common Areas The hotel was established in the former 17th century palace of the Marchese Baldinucci, in his time a treasurer to the pope and a member of the Florentine aristocracy. It was decorated with post renaissance frescoes and antiques. The common areas of the palace, now the Palazzo Jacometti Ciofi, were decorated in an 18th century style featuring antiques and modern furniture.

Each floor has seven windows facing the front of the building. The ground floor windows are covered by railings and stone frames extend down to the pavement and around the openings. Two entrance columns, brought from Rome when the palace was built, support a balcony. The ancient coat of arms of the Baldinucci Family and the faint inscription Deo Spes Mea can be seen just above the balcony and on the granite columns.

From the ground floor where the street level entrance was located we climbed broad stone and Venetian Terrazzo stairs to the first floor for reception or directly to our room. The corridor floors were of grey concrete and resin. The bar, a step away from reception, had several sofas centered around a white marble fireplace. There was a carved wood bar enhanced by wooden wall paneling where the liqueurs were housed. A former music room, the Sala della Musica had original hardwood flooring, a vaulted ceiling with bright stuccoes set against a beige background, a white marble fireplace and two brick stoves between the windows. The Fumoir or smoking room had frescoes in burgundy, blue and green. It was furnished with wood and leather armchairs and antique rugs.

Bathroom The pretty bathroom was decorated in shades of beige and pale brown. It had Corian walls and russet stone on the floor, sink base and tub deck. There was a bathtub with a towel rack, stand alone shower with a glass door, rain shower, hand held hose and steam feature. There was also a toilet, a bidet, and a sink with a large mirror above it. When the toilet flushed some water spilled out of the toilet bowl. We lowered the toilet bowl top to avoid the water spilling onto us however that mean the next time we used the toilet there were splashes of water on the plastic toilet seat. There was a vanity mirror on the wall by the sink. There were twin bath robes hanging on the wall behind the door.

Room Our second floor room, Junior Suite 214, was 43.2 square meters in size with a view to the building across the street and down onto Via Ghibelina (mainly parked cars and three large blue street garbage bins). Its most noteworthy feature was an elevated walk-in wardrobe featuring three stone arches at the bottom of the wall.

We reached our room via a wide stone staircase or if we were feeling less energetic there was a large elevator. The hallways were lined with modern style wall hanging lamps with sheer cloths for shades. Our room was at the end of a short hallway behind a simple door opened with a leather encased electronic key. Once the door was open we hung the key on a special holder to turn and keep on the room lights.

From an entrance hallway the bathroom was to the right and to the left, up four black wood steps, there was a rectangular area about five feet wide that housed a leather bench followed by a doorless two sided closet open on three sides. The closet had hanging space and shelves. The bottom part of the space was designed as a luggage area above three low to the ground drawers.

The bedroom had neutral colors (dark and light wood, pale walls, beige curtains), high ceilings with wood beams spaced about four feet apart and painted white, and pale beechwood floors. Two thirds of the walls were off white and the bottom of the walls was covered with dark wood panels. During the day sunlight filtered through the windows. Three small shaded lamps hung from the ceiling along the entrance hallway, two upright lamps, a small recessed light in the closet and two night lamps provided subdued lighting in the room.

There were three large windows facing Via Ghibelina. Each one had a short aged railing and wood shutters. On the inside there were double curtains for privacy and shade. The left part of the room was home to a pretty black and white wall facing desk with an armless russet colored chair. On it there was a telephone and above it there was a 40 inch Philips flat screen television with a Sky satellite box at the bottom. An extra wide bed made up of two small mattresses set together against a common brown leather headboard was across from the desk. To the left of the bed there was a narrow black and white night table with four drawers. The other side of the bed was home to a brown wood table with a second phone. Both phones had speakers, as well as hold and redial functions. An oval folding wood table stood against one wall near the bed and a three foot wide comfortable brown leather bench was at the foot of the bed. The temperature was controlled via a digital wall mounted display.

In the hallway there was a built-in cabinet that held a two sided minibar including a mini refrigerator with chilled beverages. The windows drowned out most of the exterior sound. We heard room doors along our hallway closing, classical music one night and during the day we heard the faint sounds of traffic but otherwise it was mostly quiet in our second floor room.

Food And Restaurants A buffet breakfast, available between 7:30 a.m. and 11 a.m., was included in the room rate. In addition, it was possible to order items for a supplement from a printed menu: eggs cooked various ways, oat meal, forest berries and salmon and toast. It was also possible to order room service. Lunch was available from 12:30 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner was served between 7:30 p.m. and 10:30 p.m. at the hotel restaurant and through room service. The night before we left we dined at the hotel restaurant Guelfi and Ghibellini which served Mediterranean and Tuscan dishes prepared by Chef Marco Tremonte and his staff. Francesco, who worked as barman and server at the restaurant, looked after us that night. He was generous with his recommendations which were worthwhile. For Antipasti we sampled the Foie gras with apples and the Octopus with prawns in a white bean sauce with a touch of virgin olive oil; for Primi Piatti we had the Agnolotti (large ravioli) stuffed with cheese and topped with shaved truffles; for Secondi we had the Grilled steak and the Seabass (my favorite dish); for Dolci we sampled the Vanilla Sorbet (tasted more like ice cream) and the Chocolate, a flour-less cake accompanied by tangerine ice cream with a slice of mandarin orange. A small tray of petit fours arrived with the hot beverages: four biscotti, two coconut balls, and two raspberry tartlets. We accompanied the meal with a chilled Prosecco and Tuscan red wine.

Amenities There were two cotton bathrobes (in large and extra large), a set of made-in-Italy house brand toiletries made by La Bottega Dell’Albergo S.p.A. in 50 milliliter plastic containers of hair conditioner, shampoo, body lotion, bath foam in herbal and fig scent as well as two loofah sponges in the bathtub, two vegetable soaps, and shoe sponge and shower caps in boxes. A separate container held cotton balls and cotton swabs. There was a copy of the International Herald Tribune in the breakfast room in the morning. There were complimentary pay-per-view films available through the television system (it took 30 minutes of attempts on our system and the assistance of one of the staff who brought a second remote control with him to figure out how the system worked).

Facilities There was a breakfast room, a small bar area and an adjacent restaurant.

Other The Relais Santa Croce was part of the Baglioni Hotel Group, one of 15 hotels and a residence (one in London, nine in Italy, and five in France) striving for “a less formal type of elegance and hospitality without missing out on design details.” The Baglioni Hotel Group is a Milan based company. The Enoteca Pinchiorri, a well known restaurant, was on the ground floor of the building.

Some of the celebrities who have stayed at the hotel include: Angelina Jolie, Charles Aznavour, Kate Moss, Brad Pitt, Jessica Simpson, Jose Luis Varela, Dionne Warwick and Caetano Veloso.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review May 2010

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Service There was twice daily room service including restocking of the minibar twice per day. Front desk staff secured domestic train tickets on our behalf (the Italian website did not accept foreign credit cards. Fortunately, we were able to withdraw euros from a nearby ATM and pay the hotel in cash as required).

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression The family owned restaurant was hidden away on a Venetian street off the beaten track. At first we thought Fiore (Italian for flower) was the family name. It turned out to be the name selected by the previous owner when he opened the old osteria and called it da Fiore. If it hadn’t been because we received very specific directions and did a test run a day in advance of our reservations we may have been late arriving. As it was we were the first guests to arrive.

Maurizio Martin, the manager, seated us at a rear table near the canal just before an elderly American couple claimed their seats very near where we sat. A few minutes later Maurizio’s wife Chef Mara Zanetti Martin came out to say hello. We had spent part of the previous morning and lunch with Mara and her son Damiano at her home during a private Venetian style cooking demonstration. We were looking forward to sampling some of her other dishes at lunch.

After browsing through the menu we invited Mara to prepare lunch any way she saw fit. She sent copious quantities of delicious food. Although there were many flavors in the multiple-course meal the flavors were subtle so that we never felt overwhelmed, and the overall experience was rewarding and worth repeating. Mara had a knack for bringing out the flavors of the fish, seafood and vegetables in whatever dishes she prepared.

Lunch at the small restaurant was pleasant, made special by the husband and wife team of Maurizio and Mara Martin. Osteria da Fiore will be on our short list of restaurants to visit the next time we are in Venice.

About The Executive Chef A self taught chef whose grandmother also cooked, Mara Martin emphasized Venetian cuisine and light sauces as the starting point for her inspiration.

Executive Chef Mara Zanetti Martin

Handicapped Access According to Damiano the restaurant has a handicapped accessible entrance.

Head Sommelier Stefano Capolla

Location In the San Polo area of Venice, Italy

Opened-Renovated The restaurant first opened April 1, 1977. In 2002, the family renovated the dining room with the help a Venetian architect.

Owned And Managed Mara, Maurizio and Damiano Martin

Pastry Chef Tamara Mascarello

Restaurant Manager Maurizio Martin

Size There were 13 tables capable of accommodating up to 60 guests in a 150-square meter dining room. The kitchen occupied an additional 150 square meters. There were 16 employees.

Type Of Restaurant The specialty was Italian and Venetian seafood dishes

DÉCor-Ambiance Designed to remind diners of the interior of a modern boat the small interior was decorated with soft understated colors and no paintings. There was Murano glass, Moretti different color glasses, silver cutlery and fine porcelain modern dinnerware.

Cellars Wine And Alcoholic Beverage Selection The restaurant had a wine list of almost 500 labels. The wines on offerer were 80 percent Italian, 15 percent French and the remainder from around the world.

Meal We began with three selections from the Antipasti: Carpaccio di tonno con olio siciliano capperi e origano di Pantelleria (Tuna carpaccio with capers and oregano), Tartar di scampi su lamelle di asparagi bianchi al profumo di vaniglia (Shrimps tartar with white asparagus), and Baccalá mantecato con asparagi bianchi e bruschetta profumata all’aglio (Whipped venetian codfish). From the Primi Piatti we tried Bigoli al torchio in salsa alla veneziana (Whole wheat pasta with onions and sardines). From the Secondi Piatti we sampled Filetto di branzino all’aceto balsamico (Steamed wild sea bass with stewed apples and balsamic vinegar). It was followed by Green apple and grappa sorbet; Zuppa di ananas e vaniglia con frutti di bosco e mandorle (Pineapple and vanilla soup with berries and almonds); and Crema fritta alla veneziana (Venetian fried cream) served with sugar coated grapes and sugar coated currants. We also had an opportunity to try the restaurant’s (Mara’s) homemade rich and thick Limoncello, a lemon based sweet liqueur.

Date Of Review May 2010

Number Of Visits One

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Service Staff were efficient and polite. We were well looked after during the entire meal.

Would You Dine Eat There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression On a recent visit to Venice we stayed at a venerable grandfather of a hotel described in promotional materials as the oldest hotel in town. In 1118, it provided shelter to the Knights Templar and by 1574 it was known as Locanda della Luna.This family friendly hotel, one of 10 in the highest category of luxury in the famed city, was half a block from the Grand Canal and a minute walk from Saint Mark’s Square, an excellent location convenient to many of the major sightseeing points of interest. We especially liked the location because it rained intermittently during most our stay in the city. Being so close to the famed square made it easy to get there and to the nearby attractions even in the rain. An added advantage was that the hotel had a private landing next to the entrance that allowed gondola and water taxi pick up and drop-off. The landing was particularly convenient when we took a water taxi to the airport at 5 in the morning the day of our departure.

We stayed in a newly renovated Double Deluxe room with Italian marble in the bathroom and a view from the small balcony of the nearby Royal Gardens. The hotel had quiet and pretty common areas. In the morning, there was a plentiful buffet breakfast in the Marco Polo Ballroom which had 18 Century Tiepolo frescoes (thought to have been the work of pupils of Gianbattista Tiepolo). After a day of non stop walking we were ready to sit down. It was a plus to have a restaurant in the hotel that we could reach easily. The night before our departure we enjoyed a savory dinner at Canova Restaurant on the ground floor of our hotel while watching the rain from the comfort of our table.

Also, we were glad the the hotel had a well informed and helpful concierge service. Every time we approached the staff they offered suggestions and information that proved right on target. When we told the concierge staff about our departure time at 7 a.m. they offered to coordinate a wake-up call at 4:30 a.m. and a water taxi pick up at 5 a.m. The morning of our departure, we were able to enjoy self service hot coffee, tea and pastries before heading out thanks to the concierge staff (someone had left hot beverages in a thermos and pastries for us at one of the restaurant tables). The hotel staff we encountered were friendly and helpful. The prestige of age, a convenient location, friendly service, a renovated pretty room, and a good restaurant at the Luna enhanced our stay in Venice.

Children The hotel welcomed children of all ages.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury hotel

Connectivity There was complimentary high speed WiFi in our room (and common areas). To access the WiFi connection we had to call reception. Within minutes a staff member delivered a password and username in an envelope which we used to connect. In order to keep the connection working we had to keep the browser window open. Although our computer indicator showed an excellent signal the connection was somewhat erratic and at times so slow as to be useless. On the third day it shut down; we were unable to download emails and were only able to browse the Internet briefly.

General Manager Gianmatteo Zampieri

Handicapped Access Yes, the hotel welcomed deaf and wheelchair bound guests.

Head Concierge Pierluigi Santini

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location A minute away on foot from Saint Mark’s Square.

Owned And Managed Baglioni Hotels Spa

Pets Allowed Small and medium pets were welcome in the hotel although not in the restaurant or breakfast room.

Size The five-story hotel employed a staff of 80 and had 104 rooms.

Year Opened-Renovated According to a hotel representative, the Hotel is the oldest hotel in Venice, dating back to the XII Century. It was acquired by the current owner 24 years ago and the most recent renovation of some of the rooms and all the corridors took place in 2009 and was continuing in 2010.

Lobby And Common Areas Hotel management strived to provide guests seeking luxury and romance with “a warm, intimate atmosphere” and relied on a “stamp of glamour and sophistication” provided by the Tiepolo frescoes in the breakfast room, antique furniture including an original Louis XVI table from Versailles, and crystal chandeliers that adorned the foyer and the public rooms. There were period costumes around the lobby and first floor staircase from an area costume rental and sales company.

Bathroom The rectangular shaped bathroom had white tile on the floors and walls. It housed twin sinks set on a marble base below a large mirror, toilet, bidet and bathtub shower with a partial glass partition. Within the bathtub there was a hand held shower hose and a rain shower about six inches from the wall adjacent to where the glass partition was located. The proximity of the rain shower to the wall and glass partition meant the shower spray remained mostly within the shower. It also meant to use the rain shower feature I had to stand very close to the wall. Double wood framed, mostly frosted, windows faced the adjacent street. There was a phone on the bathroom wall between the toilet and the bidet and a full length mirror on the back of the bathroom door.

Room Our 33 square meter Double Deluxe Room, number 207, was on the second floor of the hotel facing a neighboring building, a narrow street, a small canal and the Royal Garden. The entrance to the room was just past the elevator and the nearest room to the Murano Room, a hotel meeting room. Room 207 had been recently renovated in a classic style designed to highlight its “pleasant and comfortable bedroom” and Italian marble in the bathroom. Past the entrance, there was a short hallway that led into an outer luggage rack and a wall-to-wall closet with mirrors on its four doors. Within the closet there was a safe, a folding luggage rack and hanging space. Straight past the closet area was the bathroom and to the left was the bedroom.

The bedroom was populated by a double bed made up of two small mattresses joined together against a common golden wood and mauve cloth headboard and framed by matching night tables. There were four feather pillows. To the left side of the bed there were two armless cloth chairs and a round table. There was a tray of finger sized pastries and a thick slice of dark chocolate with a welcome note on the table when we arrived.

Across from the bed there was a mirrored cabinet (which housed a mini refrigerator) on top of which sat a Samsung flat screen television and a box off snacks from the minibar. Immediately next to the mirrored cabinet there was a wall facing desk and an armless chair.

The room was decorated in soft colors. It had medium brown wood floors, elegant cushioned green wall paper and matching bed throw covering the upper two thirds of the wall and beige paint on the bottom third. Two wall lamps above the mirrored cabinet and two hanging lamps above each night table provided lighting. A digital wall unit was designed to allow control of the temperature although we were unable to adjust the temperature the first night.

Between the desk and the night table against the outer wall of the hotel there was a glass door that led onto a small (four foot wide by six foot wide) balcony. To one side, across from the neighboring building we could see the Royal Garden, a small waterside garden created when Napoleon tore down the building on that location because he wanted a view, according to Umberto at the Concierge Desk. From the room we could see the adjacent building and if we stood next to the glass door or on the balcony we could see the garden.

Food And Restaurants In the morning, there was a breakfast buffet between 7:30 a.m. and 11 a.m. There was a continental buffet and a smaller organic buffet. The continental buffet included hot beverages including a broad selection of tea and herbal tea bags, fresh fruit (kiwi, pineapple, cantaloupe, watermelon, blood orange and grapefruit), several types of cereals, yogurt, hard Italian cheese, ham, mortadella, salami, salmon, pie, pound cake, pastries, cracker, several types of bread, chiding heated eggs, sausage and bacon.

Other There was a La Perla 10 percent discount card on the desk in our room. Occasionally when there were city sounds (gondoliers searching for customers, loud children) in the street in front of the hotel or in the nearby park the noise could be heard inside the room. The sounds were by far softer when the door to the balcony remained closed. Compared to the Saint Mark’s Square area the sounds by our hotel were very muted. The hotel was in the Travel and Leisure 500: World’s Best Hotels 2009. The hotel was a member of the Leading Hotels of the World and Fine Hotels and Resorts programs.

When we arrived the water taxi from the train station dropped us of on the Grand Canal, making us walk the distance to the hotel entrance with our luggage in the rain. The next time I will insist the taxi drop us off at the hotel’s landing area next to the entrance on the other side of the building to avoid the walk with the luggage.

Amenities There were travel size bottles of house brand made-in-Italy toiletries (fig scented conditioning shampoo, body lotion, and bath foam and two scented vegetable soaps), slippers, Baglioni brand white cotton bathrobes, vanity mirror, blow dryer, glass scale and large safe (on arrival we were asked whether we wished to use the safe and had to sign a document to that effect).

Facilities In addition to the breakfast dining room there was Canova Restaurant, a formal restaurant, and Cafe Baglioni. There were three meeting rooms capable of accommodating from 30 to 170 guests including the Marco Polo Ballroom.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review May 2010

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Service Our room was serviced twice daily. The evening turn down service included garbage collection, bedside floor mat and slipper set up, a chocolate box and a sheet with the weather forecast for the following day and suggested activities. When they cleaned the room, the staff added toiletries when a particular type of toiletry was partially used. Umberto, one of the concierge desk staff, was helpful, well informed and friendly. The staff, in general, were helpful and friendly.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Il Comandante (The Commander) was named in honor of Achille Lauro, a Neapolitan shipowner and past mayor of Naples who was a previous owner of the building where the hotel restaurant is housed. Dinner at Il Comandante was a delightful surprise. The staff were polite and thoughtful and the service was punctilious.

Although we dined in a temporary venue (the restaurant’s space was being renovated) the dinner service was fine including lovely plates, silverware, glassware and perfectly ironed linen napkins. Four white orchids added a touch of elegance to our table.

What was truly memorable was the food itself. From beginning to end Chef Andrea Aprea’s Tasting Menu dishes were refined, artistically presented and delicious. If traveling in southern Italy I would detour to Naples just to dine at Il Comandante.

About The Executive Chef Before joining Il Comandante, the 31 year old native of Naples was head chef at the Ristorante Signori in Sirmione (Lake Garda). Prior to that he worked in England in Bray on Thames, at The Fat Duck Heston Blumenthal and at The Waterside Inn Michel Roux.

In Italy, he had worked at the Rossellinis in Ravello as sous chef de cuisine, the Bulgari Hotel & Resort in Milan as chef saucier, Hotel Villa San Michele in Fiesole as garde manager chef and the Grand Hotel et de Milan as chef saucier. Chef Aprea had also been chef entremetier at Toto & San Frediano in London, head chef at Restaurant Mcities Live in Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia and chef saucier at L’Artista in London.

Chef De Cuisine Ciro Petrone

Executive Chef Andrea Aprea

Handicapped Access Yes, there was a ramp and an elevator in the building.

Head Sommelier Francesco Palma

Location Within the Romeo Hotel in Naples, Italy.

Opened-Renovated The restaurant opened December 2008. Due to renovations it was temporarily housed on the ground floor of the hotel when we dined there.

Owned And Managed Romeo Alberghi S.r.l.

Restaurant Manager Vincenzo Murolo

Size When it reopens in its permanent space (expected to be in late 2010) the restaurant should have 200 square meters of dining space, 150 square meters inside, and 50 square meters outside; and be able to accommodate 45 guests inside and 16 outside. Fourteen staff, seven in the dining room and seven in the kitchen, worked at the restaurant.

Type Of Restaurant In line with the spirit of the hotel, the cuisine at Il Comandante was designed to be a “blend of flavours and suggestions” inspired by the land and its rich culinary tradition presented in a contemporary style.

DÉCor-Ambiance Chinaware was by Hering, Jl Coquet and Sieger by Fuerstenberg; silverware was by Robbe & Berking and Christofle and the crystal was by Riedel.

Meal We began with a delicious fish and cauliflower “hamburger” pre-appetizer. To accompany our meal there was a selection of breads including onion, whole wheat, pecorino and break sticks and a monocultivar olive oil from northern Italy.

For the meal proper we sampled the chef’s Tasting Menu: Mackerel millefeuille, burrata cheese, “soft and crisp” lima beans and compote of Tropea onions; Roll of milk leaf, buffalo mozzarella, tomato dressing and basil pesto (a favorite); Zucchini cream, zucchini blossoms and salt ricotta cheese; Carnaroli rice, lemon, rosemary and roasted langoustines; and Fillet of turbot, chicory hearts, violet potatoes and light sauce of anchovies. For dessert there were Strawberries, white chocolate, olive oil biscuit and pistachio. The meal was accompanied with Fiano Donnaluna “De Concilis” and Chateau d’Arche Gran Cru Classé 2001 Sauternes.

Special Menus The restaurant offered two six-course seasonal menus, a Land Menu for € 90 and Sea Menu € 100, both excluding beverages.

Cellars Wine And Alcoholic Beverage Selection In addition to 700 fine wine labels including 2,200 bottles, the restaurant had 45 labels of alcoholic beverages such as grappa, brandy, cognac, armagnac, calvados, whisky, and rum. For example, there were 30-year old Mcallan and 36-year old Glengory Royal whiskies; 1979 La mauny and 1976 St Clement 1976 rum from the French Caribbean; Louis XIII and Richard Hennessy cognac; 1964 Laberdolive Domain de Juarrey Armagnac; 1990 Marc de Bourgogne Romanée Conti and 1986 Fine de Bourgogne Romanée Conti brandies.

Among the wines there were 162 Italian whites, 188 Italian reds, 14 Italian sweet wines, 98 French whites, 170 French reds, 8 French sweet wines, 68 red and white wines from Chile, Canada, and New Zealand. Noteworthy bottles: Domaine Krug Millèsimè 1995, Domaine Armand De Brignac Brut Gold Prestige, Domaine Louis Roederer Cristal Brut Rosé 2000, Domaine Salon Les Mesnil Brut Blanc de Blanc 1997, Gaja & Rey Angelo Gaja 2004 to 2006, Riserva Biondi Santi Bunello di Montalcino 1998 and 1999, Ornellaia Tenuta dell’Ornellaia 2000 to 2004, Solaia Marchesi Antinori 1997, Sassicaia Tenuta San Guido 2005, Domaine La Romanèe Conti La Tâche Grand Cru 2000 to 2004, Domaine La Romanèe Conti Richebourg Grand Cru 2001 to 2004, Domaine La Romanèe Conti Échezeaux Grand Cru 2004, Château Margaux Le Grand Cru Classè 1996 to 1998, Château Ausone 1e Grand Cru Classé A 1998 to 2001, Château Cheval Blanc 1e Grand Cru Classé A 2000, Château Mouton-Rothschild 1e Grand Cru Classé 1995 to 2000, Château Latour 1e Grand Cru Classé 1995 to 2000, Château Lafite-Rothschild 1e Grand Cru Classé 2000 to 2005, Château Le Pin 1997 to 2001 and Château Petrus 2001 and 2003.

Other The restaurant was listed in Guida l’Espresso Ristoranti D’Italia 2010 with a score of 16 out of a maximum of 20 and recommended as best gourmet restaurant in Naples and among the top four in the Campania region.

Date Of Review April 2010

Number Of Visits One

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Service The service was outstanding. Staff were efficient, polite and helpful.

Would You Dine There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression Named in honor of Queen Margherita of Savoy and part of the Baglioni chain in Italy, the Regina Hotel Baglioni was our home for four nights during a recent visit to the Eternal City. The hotel was one of the Baglioni City Hotels located near the city center of Italian cities that tout their elegance and “luxury with an Italian touch.”

One of the Art Nouveau hotel’s advantages was its location on the prestigious Via Veneto across the street from the United States Embassy. The family friendly hotel’s beautiful common areas, which looked recently refurbished, had a desirable blend of old style elegance and modern touches.

We spent the first three nights in a handsome newly renovated third floor Deluxe Room and the last night we switched to a second floor Junior Suite. It was nice to know there was a small basement level fitness room, sauna and spa. We liked the hotel’s location, our pretty room with complimentary WiFi, the splendid breakfast buffet as well as the quiet interior and inviting common areas.

Children Yes, children of all ages were welcome.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury five-star hotel

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi in room.

General Manager Marco Milocco

Handicapped Access While we were there we saw a guest in a wheel chair.

Head Concierge Lorenzo Fantechi

Length Of Stay Four nights

Location The hotel is on the Via Veneto across the street from the United States Embassy and south of the Borghese Gardens in the northern part of the city. It is within walking distance of the Hard Rock Cafe and the well known Spanish Steps.

Managed Baglioni Hotels Spa

Owned Roberto Polito

Pets Allowed The hotel welcomed pets of a “small size”

Size There were 103 rooms and suites in the multi-story hotel with a staff compliment of about 70.

Year Opened-Renovated The building where the hotel is housed was constructed between 1892 and 1894. An important remodeling job was concluded at the beginning of 2009 during which the total number of rooms was reduced to enlarge some of the rooms and create the Regina Suite.

Lobby And Common Areas The Art Nouveau style building was built by Giulio Podesti, described as one of the most important Roman architects of the Post Unitarian Era of the Italian Kingdom. The building features five large windows on each floor on the front façade; the windows on the ground floor are framed by floral friezes and open onto balconies with rectangular stucco ledges enclosed in wrought iron railings. Intricately wrought shelves rest on the pillars and serve to hold up the main floor balconies. The frames are decorated with satyr heads and stucco ribbons.

Although the building was originally designed with five floors and a mezzanine over the years three additional floors were added. Queen Margherita of Savoy made the hotel her temporary residence while she awaited the completion of her permanent residence, Villa Margherita, the modern day home of the American Embassy. According to the hotel’s promotional materials, because she was so pleased with her stay in 1911 she granted the hotel owner permission to name the hotel Regina (Italian for queen) and to decorate the emblem with the royal coat of arms.

The common areas were elegant and pretty. Double glass doors led from the porte cochere (covered) driveway into a small lobby with elevators to the left and a front desk to the right. A small office to the right of the front desk housed the concierge staff. A short hallway led to Caffe Baglioni, the hotel’s breakfast venue. The hotel’s main lunch and dinner restaurant had an entrance from the lobby and a street entrance as well.

Bathroom The bathroom was immediately left of the entrance to the room. It had a wall wide white framed mirror above twin sinks, toilet, bidet and shower (rain shower and hand held options) with half a glass door. There were crisp white towels in several sizes: two shower, four hand towels, two bidet and two face cloths. The bathroom in the junior suite was very similar to the Deluxe Room bathroom.

Rooms Our pretty third floor Deluxe Room, 310, was about 25 square meters in size. It was the last room in our hallway, far way from the front of the building. From our window we had a view of inner courtyard that was the intersection of three buildings containing air conditioning vents, roofs and neighboring offices. One excellent advantage of the location was the quiet within the room. With the exception of the sound of other doors being shut in the hallway the room was always blessedly quiet. What it lacked in size it made up for in decorative touches. To the right of the entrance there was a large closet with glass doors. The room and bathroom had white marble floors with red marble accents. In addition to the natural light that penetrated through the courtyard window there were plenty of lights inside the room. The walls, divided into upper and lower sections, had gold framed wall paper.

On the right side of the room, against the wall, a wall facing desk with a comfortable armchair was home to a large Samsung flat screen television. Next to it there was a matching luggage rack. Two beige armchairs with wood accents and a glass covered wood round table in the middle were at the foot of a large bed made up of two small mattresses joined together and resting against a wood and fabric headboard. The bed was framed by identical glass covered square night tables with a pattern that matched the desk and luggage rack. Modern glass lamps graced the walls and one hung from the ceiling. There were twin reading lights above the headboard. The suite was elegantly decorated in shades of gold with burgundy accents, contemporary light fixtures, double curtains, and a central temperature device with a digital control panel and a safe in the closet.

On our last night at the hotel we stayed in Room 205, a second floor 45 square meter Junior Suite facing a side street. Although more spacious than the Deluxe Room we had stayed in the previous nights it was furnished and decorated in a similar style as the higher floor room. We enjoyed the extra space.

Food And Restaurants Breakfast at Caffe Baglioni (available between 7 a.m. and 11 a.m.) was a self-service buffet with cereal, cheeses (several fresh and two aged), cold cuts (mortadella, turkey, ham, salamis), mixed greens, cold beverages (fruit juices, bottled water and bubbly Italian wine), fresh whole (bananas, tangerine, orange) and sliced fruit (pineapples, kiwi), pastries, cookies and cakes (blueberry filled, flan, plum cake, carrot cake, and butter cookies), breads (Italian, milk, Roman focacia), yogurt and pre-cooked chafing-dish foods including scrambled eggs, bacon, pork sausage, mushrooms and tomatoes.

Lunch was available in the cafe between noon and 3 p.m. Dinner was served Monday through Saturday at Brunello Restaurant. Sunday night when the Brunello was closed the cafe served dinner. Room service was available in the room 24 hours a day.

The night before our departure we visited the bar where we sampled Italian bubbly and a couple of the bar snacks before having dinner at the gourmet restaurant. Entering from the hotel lobby the first thing I noticed was the subdued lighting, spheric chandeliers, dark walls and gold furnishings of the contemporary décor. It was nice to see Fabio, who I had met at breakfast earlier in the week, was the bartender. The restaurant décor was similar to the bar décor in that the shades were dark although the curtains were deep red and the fabrics were velvet. The rectangular shaped enclosed veranda had large windows that looked out onto a side street. We were seated at a corner with cushy seats and a view of the dining room. Dinner at Brunello Lounge and Restaurant consisted of a duck breast with onions pre-appetizer, carbonara pasta followed by veal with ham and sage prepared by sous chef Patrick and paired with a chianti selected by Giovanni who was training to become a wine steward (the wine cellar had 350 wine labels). We wrapped up the meal with chocolate souffle with gooseberries and blackberries.

Amenities There were two cotton bathrobes, two complimentary 25 centiliter bottles of water (Acqua Panna and San Pellegrino) at turn down, cotton swabs, cotton balls, and two each of the house brand toiletries: conditioning shampoo, body foam, body lotion, shower caps, shoe sponges and one handy kit (a sewing kit and one nail file). There was an electronic safe in the closet and a stocked refrigerator.

Facilities The hotel housed: Brunello Lounge and Restaurant, Caffe Baglioni, fitness area with Technogym equipment and spa with sauna and two lounge chairs.

Other There was a small fruit bowl with grapes and berries and a welcome note from the manager in our room when we checked in. When we arrived at the hotel from the airport it was raining lightly. Although there were no guests there were vehicles parked at the entrance leaving insufficient room for our taxi to park under the covered driveway and there was no doorman in sight. Our driver was forced to park and unload our luggage on the street. When we were half way to the entrance a porter arrived to help.

The hotel had two meeting rooms with a capacity of 80 and 20 guests each. The Regina Hotel Baglioni, part of the Baglioni Hotel Group, was one of 15 hotels and a residence (one in London, nine in Italy, and five in France) striving for “a less formal type of elegance and hospitality without missing out on design details.” The Baglioni Hotel Group is a Milan based company.

Famous past guests at the hotel include: Dan Brown, Isabella Rossellini, Jane Fonda, Liza Minelli, Enrique Iglesias, and Roberto Carlos Braga.

Cleanliness Very good

Date Of Visit April 2010

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our room was serviced twice daily (in the morning and in the evening). The staff we met were helpful and professional. At the cafe I asked if the hot chocolate was instant. Fabio, one of the staff members, brought me a cup so I could taste it. Twice we spoke with a concierge. Saturday morning after breakfast we asked one for help securing reserved tickets for the Vatican Museum for that afternoon. He immediately said that it was not possible. When I explained I had found a website that had them but couldn’t print the order from my computer he agreed to check. With his help and our credit card we purchased and printed the tickets within a few minutes.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes