Overall Impression Widely recognized for over a century as one of the crown jewels of the much-vaunted Amalfi coast, the Santa Caterina Hotel has consistently garnered so many accolades from the travel press, industry rating organization and its own delighted guests that I approached it with the highest of expectations. All of which were surpassed by the time I was ushered into my suite.

The property was stunning. Built into a rock face rising from the Tyrrhenian Sea, it was a series of terraced citrus groves and lush gardens that started along Almalfi Drive to cascade down a 60 meters (200 feet) vertical drop, all the way to the water’s edge with its salt water swimming pool and private beach (with elevators as well as stairs to circulate between levels). The hotel was a striking classic Mediterranean-style villa, with vaulted ceilings and light-filled open spaces turned toward the Gulf of Salerno. All the common areas as well as my own suite had pale Vietri Majolica tile floors enhanced by hand-painted floral motives. The white walls and ceilings provided an understated backdrop for the antique furniture and artworks interspersed throughout. Everywhere, the walls facing the sea were lined with arched French doors opening onto serene terraces with panoramic views of the sea and sky melting into a bright blue horizon.

I loved the refined elegance of my suite with its soaring ceilings, lovely antique accents and full height glass wall that opened onto a verdant oversized terrace; and the miles of rich fuchsia Pierre Frey heavy silk taffeta that draped the sleeping area and glass outer wall. Then there was the glorious bathroom. With its vaulted frosted glass ceiling, a Majolica seascape fresco above the oversized circular Jacuzzi bathtub and lavish toiletries, it had the allure of a private spa.

But beyond the breathtaking natural surroundings and the refined elegance of the décor, what made the Santa Caterina truly unique was its home-like atmosphere and the excellence of its service. “This is our family home, our daily life,” explained Giuseppina (Giusi) Gambardella, owner of the property with her sister Carmela, “it has been for four generations. The furniture is our own family’s antiques. And we personally oversee every detail of the decoration.” I mentioned how impressed I was with the service. Giusi’s face lit up. “Our staff are a part of the family. The Santa Caterina is their life also. Our general manager has been with us for 35 years. He is a personal friend. Others have been with us for two or more generations.” She pointed out the young bellman who had impressed me with his impeccable efficiency and friendliness at check-in time, “his father was with us also, until he recently retired.”

Guests are equally faithful to the Santa Caterina. They come back year after year, and generation after generation. “People who honeymooned here return with their children, and their grandchildren,” Giusi confided. I asked about VIP and celebrity guests. It is after all public knowledge that it was at the Santa Caterina that Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton began their turbulent relationship in the early 1960s during the filming of Cleopatra, and Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt are rumored to have begun their own romance there. But Giusi demured: “all our guests are VIPs to us, and we strictly respect everyone’s privacy equally.” Taking in the late afternoon bustle in the lobby, and every member of the staff attentive and friendly but never overly familiar, I understood the unique strength of the Santa Caterina: the personal commitment of its devoted management and staff to uphold their long tradition of superb hospitably; and the blazing autumn dipping into the Tyrrhenian Sea.

With its exquisite accommodations, warm family atmosphere, flawless service and privileged location in one of the most spectacular spots of the Mediterranean basin, the Santa Caterina Hotel did not merely make my short list of places to revisit or recommend to friends traveling to the area. It propelled itself to my personal list of ‘five favorite places on the planet.’”

Children Welcome Yes

Class Of Accommodation Five star luxury hotel

Concierge Franco Cavalieri

Connectivity There was full mobile phone reception and reliable complimentary high speed WiFi in my suite and in the common areas, an especially notable feat considering the challenging multi-level topography and rock construction of the property.

General Manager Armando Di Palma

Handicapped Access Some rooms were suitable for motion-impaired guests. However, due the cliffside location, some areas of the hotel were not wheel chair accessible.

Hotel Manager Andrew Camera

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location In Amalfi, on the Gulf of Salerno, in the Campania region of southwestern Italy. Naples was 50 kilometers (30 miles) to the north, with Naples Airport a 90-minute drive from the property.

Owned-Managed The Gambardella family has owned and managed the property for four generations.

Pets Allowed No

Size The property had 66 guest rooms, including 29 suites. It employed a staff of 120 including 41 restaurant personnel.

Year Opened-Renovated Giuseppe Gambardella constructed the original structure as a private villa in 1880. In 1904, his son Crescenzo redesigned the property and created the original six guestrooms. The next two generations of Gambardellas gradually brought it to its present standing. The latest renovation was in 2010.

Lobby And Common Areas The entire property was designed to make the most of its exceptional surroundings. All interior spaces other than the lobby had a southern orientation facing the sea. Walls of oversized picture windows and French doors opened onto terraces to take advantage of every instant of daylight. The Majolica-tiled floors dotted with hand-painted patches of flowers and arched ceilings enhanced by streams of climbing ivy completed the tranquil indoor-outdoor feel, while antique furniture and original artworks gave the space a mellow inviting atmosphere. The spacious lobby set the tone with gracious sitting arrangements upholstered in shades of cinnabar and gold scattered along the walls, most notably a bergère sofa paired with pie-crust top occasional tables and a carved-back art nouveau settee near a display armoire that held a collection of delicate period porcelains. A long mahogany reception desk occupied the rear of the room.

Bouquets of fresh flowers and cascading green plants enhanced the lived-in feel. The lounge occupied the right half of the property facing the sea, with the dining room to its left. A curved sandstone bar separated the two areas. In the lounge, twin 19th century mahogany sofas upholstered in Pierre Frey jacquard in various shades of green were lined against the interior wall. Mahogany pedestal occasional tables held posies of fresh flowers. A fine collection of watercolors and etchings of the area hung behind the sofas. Along the glassed-in exterior wall, groupings of overstuffed rolled arm sofas upholstered in white damask and matching armchairs were arranged around small tea tables. Translucent white curtain panels gently filtered the southern light. Bright green toss pillows and exuberant green plants completed the décor to give the space the feel of a country garden room.

On a lower level, a covered terrace overhanging the water was carved into the cliff. Its white-plastered pillars were covered with a jumble of blooming purple bougainvillea. The terrace was furnished with teak armchairs with ecru canvas cushions clustered around circular coffee tables draped in matching cloth under heavy plate glass tops. Throughout the property wrought iron bistro chairs were randomly lined along the fieldstone paths that meandered along the citrus groves.

Bathroom The bathroom was remarkable for its size (11.5 square meters or 125 square feet) as well as it superb fixtures and elegant décor. Its vaulted ceiling was lined with backlit unpolished glass. The floor and lower part of the walls were covered in rose ceramic, as was the extra long vanity top. The built-in dual sinks, bidet, commode and circular corner Jacuzzi were of white porcelain. The large recessed shower with high-pressure rain showerhead was tiled in deep rose mosaic. A wall-size mirror hung above the vanity. The walls above the Jacuzzi were covered with a hand painted tile panorama that represented a wisteria-shaded patio overlooking a Mediterranean seascape. Next to it, a heated towel rack with a generous supply of oversized bath towels hung on the plastered wall.

Room My 45 square meter (455 square foot) light-filled suite, Number 87, was located two levels below the main common areas. The white plastered walls and high vaulted ceilings, and pale grey tile floor decorated with clusters of wisteria in the foyer and living area provided an understated setting for the striking floor to ceiling fuchsia silk draperies which separated the living and sleeping areas. In the foyer, an antique vanity table with a marble top and carved rectangular mirror held a large fresh flower arrangement in shades of hot pinks and mauves, coordinated to the overall color scheme. The living area occupied the front of the suite. A pair of oversized double sliding doors opened onto the terrace. Living room furniture included a mahogany key hole desk and Queen Anne desk chair, a tall chest that served as a base for a large LCD television screen, and against the rough field stone far wall, a rolled arm sofa covered in white canvas. In front of the sofa, a gilded rectangular Queen Anne coffee table held a bowl of fresh fruit and a plate of freshly baked cookies. The toss pillows on the sofa, desk chair seat and draperies tiebacks were covered in heavy cotton jacquard in shades of fuchsia and jade in a striped Bargello-like design on a cream background.

To the right of the living area, a door leading to a walk-in dressing room was painted with a bright mural of a whimsical flower garden reminiscent of the 19th century Nabis (French post-impressionist) style. In the sleeping area, the king-size headboard and accent pillows were upholstered in similar Bargello design as the living room accents. A large seascape watercolor in a gilded frame hung above it. There were spindle leg two-drawer bedside tables on both sides of the bed. Throughout the suite, gilded bronze wall sconces with silk half-drum shades provided lighting. The vast (32 square meters or 345 square feet) garden-like private terrace had a large square table tiled in a grapevine design and two teak armchairs. There were also two comfortable folding teak and bright blue canvas lounge chairs. However, the best feature of the terrace was the intoxicating sea view that extended to the faint outline of the far side of the Gulf of Salerno melting into the horizon.

Food And Restaurants The property had a number of dining options, starting with a sumptuous breakfast buffet served it its formal Santa Caterina restaurant. Lunch and dinner were also served there. See separate review. Additionally, from May to October, a full luncheon menu was served at Al Mare, a covered patio overlooking the pool. During the day, the poolside Beach Club bar offered a variety of sandwiches and appetizers as well as smoothies and bar drinks.

Amenities Room amenities included a welcome bottle of chilled Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine), fresh fruit basket, fresh flower arrangement, electronic safe, CD and DVD player, and a selection of daily newspapers in Italian, English, French and German on demand. Bathroom amenities included bathrobes and slippers, magnifying mirror, two hairdryers (wall-hung and hand-held), bathroom scale, facial tissues, cotton pads and swabs, nail file, feminine hygiene gel, disposable razor and shaving cream. Toiletries were Thé Blanc by Bvlgari in individual sizes of hand-milled soap, bath salt, bath gel and shampoo, hair conditioner and body lotion.

Facilities There were two restaurants, the Santa Caterina and Al Mare, a lounge, two bars, La Terrazza and the Beach Club, spa and fitness center, swimming pool, conference facility and a basic business center

Fitness Center And Spa A fitness center and spa were located on one of the lower levels of the property. In addition to fitness equipment, the health club included a sauna and steam room. The spa had two private treatment rooms where it offered a menu of massages, facials and body treatments.

Pool Set in a concrete terrace at the base of the cliff, the seawater pool was three meters wide by 18 meters long (10 by 60 feet) with depths ranging from 1.10 to 2.20 meters (or 3.6 to 7.2 feet). From there, six steps let down to a lower terrace with a few more steps ending in the water for easy sea bathing. Both terraces were lined with teak lounge chairs separated by small side tables and shaded by white canvas umbrellas. Pool assistants were always on hand with fresh towels.

Cleanliness Excellent. The attention to detail on the part of the household staff was remarkable. Not only was my suite immaculate at all times (as were all the common areas) but I was amazed to realize that, as the stargazer lilies in my flower arrangement gradually opened, the household staff was routinely clipping off the emerging yellow pollen anthers (known to be allergenic to some people).

Date Of Review October 2012

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service My room was serviced twice daily. Every member of the staff with whom I came in contact during my stay was thoughtful and attentive to my preferences, and delivered superb personalized service.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression As is the case in most densely visited area anywhere, Italy’s Amalfi Coast abounds with local eateries eager to introduce hungry tourists to the local fare. On a recent visit to the area, it quickly became obvious that although the quality of food and service could vary wildly, menus were virtually interchangeable from one restaurant to the next; until I reached the Santa Caterina Restaurant. Located in the legendary five-star hotel that gave it its name, this superb formal restaurant welcomed its guests with the same flawless service, exquisite décor and eye popping views of the Amalfi coastline that have made the property famous for over a century. And best of all was Chef Domenico Cuomo’s menu: classic southern Italian cuisine, created from the freshest local ingredients and fish just out of the Tyrrhenian Sea. There were also sublime pasta dishes, homemade of course, the likes of which I hadn’t tasted since my Tuscan paternal grandmother made them for me when I was a child.

I was not surprised to discover that Chef Cuomo was for years regularly invited as a visiting chef to noted restaurants around the world, from New York’s Drake and Plaza hotels to Dubay’s Metropolitan.

Although it was visibly a big hit with the hotel guests, the Santa Caterina Restaurant equally welcomed lunch and dinner visitors, and has long been a favorite among area gourmets. “We always come here at least once, whenever we are in the area,” explained a couple that happened to leave the restaurant as I did. “We live in Rome, but we have a place down the coast. For us, the Santa Caterina is the best restaurant in Amalfi,” the wife volunteered; “one of the best on the entire coast,” her husband concurred.

As popular wisdom goes, just ask the locals. I will definitely follow their lead and plan to dine at the Santa Caterina whenever I revisit the area. And recommend it as a mandatory stop to traveling friends who want to experience elegant Italian cuisine and gracious service in the grand Amalfitana tradition.

About The Executive Chef A life-long resident of Furore, a remote village that clings to the rocky cliffs between Amalfi and Salerno, Domenico Cuomo knew from the tender age of 15, when he started with a summer apprenticeship with a local resort restaurant, that he was meant to be a chef. He went on to hone his skills with increasingly responsible positions in ever better-noted restaurants of the region before taking over the top job at the Santa Caterina in 1990. Along the way he also earned top honors in scores of national and international competitions in Italy and the Germanic countries. Through it all Chef Cuomo stayed true to his culinary roots: straightforward creations based on traditional dishes, using only the highest quality locally sourced products, and his own considerable skills and creativity (although he would be too modest to admit the latter).

Executive Chef Domenico Cuomo

Handicapped Access Yes. The restaurant was fully wheel-chair accessible.

Location On the main public areas level of the Santa Caterina Hotel in Amalfi, on southwestern Italy’s Gulf of Salerno. It was 50 kilometers (30 miles) south of Naples and 30 kilometers (19 miles) south of Sorrento.

Opened-Renovated The property first opened in 1904. The most recent renovation was in 2010.

Owned-Managed The Gambardella family has owned and managed the property for four generations.

Pastry Chef Roberto Ricco

Restaurant Manager Giuseppe (Pino) Francese

Size The dining room could accommodate a maximum of 220 guests. It employed a staff of 41.

Sommelier Luca Amato

Type Of Restaurant Luxury gourmet dining specializing in southern Italian cuisine.

DÉCor-Ambiance The Santa Caterina Restaurant took full advantage of its spectacular location to delight guest with its surroundings as well as its cuisine. Perched on the main level of the property, on a rocky ledge 60 meters (200 feet) above the sea, it offered a sweeping view of the Gulf of Salerno and the historic center of Amalfi. The floor was a rare marine-blue veined marble that recalled the sky and sea beyond its arched glass walls, as did the round dining tables draped in floor-length deep blue cloths with crisp white linen overlays. Dining chairs were bleached wood with comfortable caned medallion backs and thickly cushioned seats with white canvas slipcovers. Verdant streams of ivy reached out of large ceramic tubs to climb up to the white plaster vaulted ceiling. In the daytime, the room felt like a sunny garden floating between sky and sea. At night, when all the tables were aglow with pillar candles in sparkling hurricane lamps and dancing candle light brushed the tall Riedel stem glasses and gleaming silverware of the table settings, the room became an exquisitely romantic space, with each table an intimate haven.

Cellars Wine And Alcoholic Beverage Selection The impressive 600 labels wine list featured a wide selection of southern Italian wines as well as other wine-growing regions of Italy and France. It offered some local favorites by the glass including a lovely Prosecco (a crisp northern Italian sparkling wine) that I especially enjoyed as an aperitif. A selection of bar drinks was also available.

Meal We enjoyed several meals at the Santa Caterina Restaurant. Since my preferences tend to go toward local specialties and fish dishes, I was delighted with the menu on both counts. However, for guests who preferred meat, I noticed several interesting options as well. Highlights of my meals included a superb dish of ravioli filled with chopped zucchini and fresh buffalo Ricotta cheese, served with a creamy lemon sauce (Amalfi lemons are reputed throughout and beyond Italy for their rich sweet flavor). A lightly baked local sea bass fillet served on a crisp potato pancake with baby vegetable and glazed cherry tomatoes proved a perfect choice for a satisfying rainy-day lunch.

Especially memorable was our last dinner when our attentive Maitre d’hotel, Pino, suggested a “local traditional fish stew. It’s not on the menu but I think you will like it.” We acquiesced of course, and were treated to a medley of shrimps, clams, several kinds of fish and cubed vegetables in a rich consomé-like stock. The dish was served en croute, steamed to perfection in a heavy, individual crockery pot under a delicious herbed pastry crust. With it, the sommelier recommended Furore Bianco Fiorduva, a fragrant, full-bodied local white wine. Then came the coup-de-grace. We hadn’t given any advanced thought to dessert, but Pino had. He suggested another local specialty “Il soufflé al gusto Amalfitano”, or Amalfi-style lemon soufflé. How could he have guessed that lemon soufflé is one my favorite desserts? I wondered. Apparently, mind-reading is part of the service at the Santa Caterina. Pino had quietly pre-ordered the soufflé (said on the menu to require 50 minutes’ notice). It arrived within instants, golden and sky-high, with its decadent lemon-flavored creme Anglaise accompaniment. And to top off this perfect meal, it was paired with a glass of Vino Santo, the Italian nectar-of-the gods answer to the French vendange tardive dessert wines.

Date Of Most Recent Review October 2012

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service The service was flawless, attentive and friendly while remaining unobtrusive, and precisely orchestrated with all the decorum of a bygone era.

Would You Dine There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression Although we were only scheduled to remain on the island of Ischia, known for its beautiful vistas as well as its thermal waters and spa offerings, for three nights we had set aside some time for treatments. The spa was conveniently located between our building and reception at our hotel. Just after breakfast we met with Constanza Popolano, Msc., the very busy spa manager, and Paolo Magrassi, M.D., the spa’s United States trained medical director. A man of subtle charm and a passion for travel to exotic locales he made time to tell us about the spa’s thermal waters and mud and the menu options available to visitors. Although the spa was undergoing renovations while we were there, we were fortunate to find treatment time available.

The thermal waters and mud of Ischia, supplied by a number of springs, were reputed for their healthy properties. The springs that fed our spa were monitored closely by the spa’s medical staff. They were also under the supervision of the Italian Ministry of Health. The marine mud applied during the treatments was placed in huge outdoor pools to bake under the sun and kept continuously immersed in specially selected running thermal water for a year. While it was unknown exactly how this mud worked on the body the medical benefits seemed clear, Dr. Magrassi told us that morning. The executive staff at the spa believed that the slow solar and thermal water curation transformed the mud or clay, causing it to become rich in organic compounds that in turn are believed to have healing properties such as stimulation of the immune system.

The 3,500 square meter spa was spacious, brightly lit and quiet. One area had wide empty corridors with treatment rooms of varying types on either side. The serious and sterile clean ambiance inspired confidence and reminded us of a health care facility. In fact, some treatments required a medical consult while the beauty and relaxation menu options could be easily booked without seeing a doctor. My treatments with thermal water and clay and my facial required medical consults with two staff physicians.

We liked the spacious and efficiently run spa for its well appointed facilities and the variety of treatment options on offer, especially the mud treatments. We look forward to a return visit when the spa facility upgrades have been completed.

General Manager Costanza Popolano Msc.

Handicapped Access Yes, for patients with orthopedic and neurological disorders.

Location In the hotel by the same name in the village of Lacco Ameno on the island of Ischia on the Amalfi Coast of Italy about one hour by hydrofoil from Naples.

Medical Director Paolo Magrassi, M.D., a native of Brescia the doctor trained at New York University, Montreal and Harvard medical schools. The physician had lived in Brazil for four years and traveled widely to Cambodia and Vietnam in the Far East as well as Congo, Angola and Sierra Leone in Africa.

Number Of Staff 45

Owned And Managed Partenhotels srl.

Size There were 60 treatment rooms in the two-story 3,500 square meter facility.

Special Training Staff members had received training in Fondo Impresa, Yamuna Body Rolling, Watsu, LPG Endermologie, Ultrashape and Intraceuticals.

Year Opened-Renovated The spa was established in 1956. The most recent renovation was taking place while we visited the spa.

Common Areas The décor was 1950s Mediterranean style.

Amenities There were house brand Terme della Regina Isabella toiletries, slippers, bathrobes and mud treatment slips.

Facilities There was a fitness room, two indoor pools including a chromotherapy pool, two outdoor pools (part of the hotel facilities), a sauna, a hammam, a hydrokinesis therapy pool, two Kneipp Water Paths, 60 treatment rooms and four medical offices. There were treatment rooms with massage beds, tatami mats and sometimes expensive equipment behind white wood and glass doors in the spotless brightly lit corridors.

Pool There were two indoor pools including a chromotherapy pool and two outdoor pools (part of the hotel facilities).

Other Due to renovations, the day we arrived the spa was closed and the following day it was closed in the afternoon. The spa was selected number four in the 2008 Conde Nast Traveller World Medical and Thermal Spas. The spa followed the guidelines of the Society of Medical Hydrology and Italian Ministry of Healthy.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review April 2010

Number Of Treatments Four

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Would You Return? Yes

Treatments Experienced I visited the spa twice during our stay in Ischia for a Complete Facial Cleansing, a mud treatment with thermal bath and circulatory massage which required consultation with a physician; as well as a Remodeling Massage with Regina Isabella Mud and an Indo-Asian Mixed technique Massage neither of which required consultation with a physician. My first medical consult was 10 minutes long with M.A. Granieri, M.D. in Italian. She approved the therapeutic thermal mud with thermal shower (requiring medical visit) and the therapeutic thermal bath with ozone (requiring medical visit) followed in the same room by a circulatory massage. The following day, after a second medical consultation, with a dermatology specialist, I had a Medical Estethologist and Basic Skin Check-up.

Once M.A. Granieri, M.D. approved me for a mud treatment (there are a number of contraindications for mud treatments) she escorted me from her office a few steps away to the treatment area where I met Anna, a stout blonde middle aged woman with a warm demeanor and a limited English vocabulary. Thanks to her English and my basic Italian we were able to communicate. Anna led me to a two-room area and presented me with plastic wrapped disposable panties and a shower cap. The doors in both rooms remained partially open during the entire session. Moments later I was laying down with warm thermal mud on my shoulders, back, arms and knees wrapped in a plastic sheet under a blanket. After what seemed only a few minutes a timer buzzed and Anna returned. She led me to an enclosed shower area with wooden floor slats where she washed off the mud with a hand held shower hose with a strong jet pulsing out. Once she was satisfied the mud was gone she instructed me to climb into an adjacent rectangular bathtub with an ergonomically designed interior filled with tepid thermal water. Once I was seated she turned on the jets and water began rushing out on either end of the tub. I lay there for what seemed another 20 minutes before the fast moving water jets stopped. As I exited the tub she handed me an oversized warm and crisp white towel to dry myself and a dry set of disposable panties. We went to the adjacent massage room. After making sure I was comfortably settled under a dry and warm large towel she left. Two minutes later a thin therapist with short brown hair, Lucia, entered and asked how I was. I was well I told her. As soon as I confirmed I was well she pulled out a small bottle of body oil and began massaging my left leg while I lay face up. She dedicated the next hour to briskly massaging my legs, arms, belly, parts of my chest, shoulders and back. When she finished she announced softly that I was invited to relax five minutes before leaving. I felt invigorated the rest of the afternoon.

Saturday morning I returned to the spa. I started with a dermatological consultation with Dott.ssa Mariella Scotto di Santolo in Italian. We chatted for a few minutes before she examined my face (after gently cleansing it to remove remnants of that morning’s moisturizing facial cream) with a magnifying glass and bright light (the specialized machine that provided details of guest skin was out of order) and a probe to determine the level of sensitivity of my skin (low). She made some recommendations in writing and we said our farewells as she walked me out to meet with Francesca, a therapist who was in charge of my Remodeling Massage with Regina Isabella Mud and facial. Francesca, who spoke halting English, provided me with disposable panties and a hair bonnet before briefly exiting the treatment room. While I lay, first on my back and then on my stomach she vigorously rubbed room temperature mud over my legs, arms, and stomach. When she was done she let me sit wrapped in paper and covered with a towel for a few minutes before inviting me to shower off the mud in the en suite shower. Once I was dry we moved to another treatment room with a curved chair convenient for facial treatments. Francesca explained in mildly accented English that I should remove my bathrobe and lay on the chair. She covered me with a warm towel and began by gently cleaning my face. After using an electric brush she turned on the steam to open my pores. She applied a moisturizing cream with vitamin C and massaged it into the skin. Deep pore cleansing with the help of tissue to minimize skin damage was followed by mild zapping to prevent infection. After that she applied a mud mask on my face (and a moisturizing cream on my eye lids) which she left on for ten minutes. She completed the facial with a moisturizing cream. The mud, she explained, would nourish my skin. Although the facial left my skin feeling soft and bright the cream she applied to my eyes left them irritated and tearing for several hours.

After the facial she introduced me to Fazal, a Pakistani therapist who had learned massage therapy from his grandmother and did his work, he explained, “from the heart.” Most massage therapists uncover only the part of the body they are working on at any given moment. During the Indo-Asian Massage the towel remained off during almost the entire massage session.

Although I had understood this type of massage was rather painful, it was only mildly so. The massage was vigorous with only mild to medium pressure and most of the emphasis on the legs. I walked away with the impression he took it easy on me and that perhaps that type of massage was ideal for men because of the emphasis on the legs.

Overall Impression The departure point to Ischia was so close to our Naples hotel that we walked there with our luggage. We arrived on the northwestern corner of the island of Ischia on a cool and sunny spring day following an hour long ride in an air conditioned and comfortable hydrofoil boat that departed from the port in Naples. As soon as we descended from the boat in Ischia we saw a representative from our hotel holding a sign with our names. With his help we wheeled our luggage to his air conditioned van for the five-minute drive to our home of the next three nights, L’Albergo della Regina Isabella.

What I remember best and liked most at the lovingly maintained bayside hotel in Lacco Ameno, the smallest municipality on the island, was the splendid sea view from our fifth story room. From our balcony we could see the hotel deck, pool and salt water swimming area below us, Lacco Ameno and a little of Casamicciola Terme, the neighboring town; and in the background the Amalfi coast and the jewel like Tyrrhenian Sea. Although the chilly sea breeze reminded us it was spring the view was alluring, drawing us down to the pool area for lunch.

In addition to the view, the 130-room family friend resort stood out for its seaside location, sunlit common areas, and 3,500 square meter health spa. Established in 1956 and renovated recently it was named for Regina Isabella (Italian for Queen Isabella), the former queen of Naples who, decades before the hotel was built, was told by her doctors a treatment in the Ischia thermal waters would be beneficial if she wanted to become pregnant. After enjoying treatments with the thermal waters she went on to have 11 children. Her success made the island popular for its mud and spa treatments and it remains so to this day.

Our brief stay at L’Albergo della Regina Isabella provided a wonderful introduction to Ischia. We enjoyed several health oriented treatments at the hotel spa, including one with the famed mud which was prepared for guest treatments for one year on the property. We also dined at the hotel, sampled a couple of Ischia wines and enjoyed delightful gourmet fare prepared by Pasquale Palamaro, an up and coming young chef. We look forward to revisiting Ischia and another stay at the family run hotel.

Children The hotel welcomed children of all ages

Class Of Accommodation Luxury hotel and spa in the five-start luxe category

Concierge Franco Galano

Connectivity There was an ADSL connection in our room and WiFi access in the main building (12 euros per 24 hour period). There were also two Apple computers for guest use in the Game Room (near the Regina Isabella Restaurant). Charges were as follows: one week € 50, one day € 12, one hour € 5, and 30 minutes € 3.

General Manager Pierangelo Tondina

Handicapped Access The property was able to welcome guests with wheelchairs

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location In the town of Lacco Ameno on the island of Ischia in the Tyrrhenian Sea of Italy, an hour hydrofoil boat ride away from Naples.

Owned And Managed Partenhotels owned by the Carriero family

Pets Allowed Some small pets were welcome on request.

Size There were 130 rooms and 200 employees in several connected multi-story buildings in a 1.6 acre property.

Year Opened-Renovated The hotel was established in 1956 by Angelo Rizzoli, a publisher and film director. In 2006, eighty percent of the property was renovated.

Lobby And Common Areas The main entrance of the hotel faces the square of Santa Restituta and the church bearing the same name on it. The Archaeological Museum is on the same square as are antique shops and boutiques. Inside the Regina, there were 1950’s style furnishings and paintings by contemporary artists, Capodimonte ceramics, hand painted tiles, antiques, Murano chandeliers, and tapestries. The resort complex was made up of several buildings of varying sizes and with slight different styles that were interconnected indoors. We could tell from the floor type when we passed from one building to the next. Ours seemed to be the most recent or most recently renovated.

Bathroom One my favorite features of the gray-khaki bathroom was the heated towel rack with crisp white towels above the plastic Carisma Bathtub which had two types of jets. In addition to the bathtub, there was a stand alone shower with a glass door just next to the entrance to the bathroom. It had an oversize rain shower head as well as a hand held shower head. A single sink occupied a corner of the bathroom, beneath a large square black framed mirror. On the opposite wall from the sink there was a toilet and a bidet. Recessed lights were controlled from a panel of three buttons just outside the bathroom entrance (two buttons for the bathroom and one for the hall lights). Corian covered the floor and part of the walls and also made up the counter by the sink and the shower walls. There was a phone on the wall between the toilet and the bidet. Above the sink on the left there was a blow dryer and a vanity mirror hanging on the wall.

Room After an elevator ride up a floor from reception and a walk past varied hallways and the entrance to the spa we arrived at our room where our luggage awaited us. We stayed in a fifth floor Royal Deluxe room, 564, a new looking and spacious 65 square foot room facing the bay. The strong sunlight in the morning lit and heated the room. The first thing we noticed when we entered the room were the hand painted tile floors with a red flower motif, the balcony and sea view.

The room was furnished with two comfortable single beds, with wood headrests a pillow each and luxurious linen sheets, joined together to make a king bed. Night tables made of the same type of wood as the headrest framed the bed. Each one had a lamp and a telephone. At the foot of the bed there was a gray cloth sofa with flower patterned cushions and in front of it there was a rectangular coffee table. Two matching blonde wood and white leather armchairs were arranged near the coffee table. Against one side there was a long rectangular desk facing the wall. On it there were city and hotel booklets, a handheld Siemens phone and an ADSL cable we connected to our computer.

There was an antique style mirror hanging on the wall; on the other wall there was a large black and white framed photograph above the desk. A large dresser with three drawers sat below the black and white photo. To the right of the dresser there was a Bang and Olufsen flat screen television. All furniture in the room was glass covered. At the back of the room, there was a walk-in closet with a full length mirror on the inside door, hanging space, drawers and shelves as well as an electronic safe.

Double wood and glass doors led to a small balcony with tile floors and railing furnished with an outdoor table and two matching armchairs. In addition to the lovely view I described earlier from the balcony we could see the dock as well as the hotel grounds and neighboring balconies. Even though it was too chilly to linger long it was my favorite part of the room.

Food And Restaurants Breakfast (served in the Regina Isabella Restaurant between 7:30 a.m. and 10:30 a.m.) was buffet style with fresh squeezed (at the buffet table) orange juice, vegetable juice making equipment, ham and salami, made-to-order omelet maker, several types of cakes, bread station, bottled water (still and sparkling), cheeses, eight types of jams in their bottles, crackers, tea (loose leaf and bags), fresh and preserved fruit, and cereals. Lunch was served between 1 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. at the Sporting Restaurant near the outdoor pool. Dinner was served at the Regina Isabella Restaurant (and soon to be reopened Indaco gourmet restaurant) between 7:45 p.m. and 10 p.m. A dress code was suggested for dinner (suits for men and an elegant dress for women).

We had an opportunity to sample the dinner cuisine from the main restaurant and the gourmet restaurant. At the Regina Isabella Restaurant we had Short pasta with smoked mozzarella and Risotto with seafood for appetizers; Fresh local fish cooked in salt (excellent) and Fried seafood with potato chips for mains; and Chocolate cake (a favorite) and Strawberries and ice cream for dessert. Petit fours and hot beverages followed.

Amenities There was a tray of house brand toiletries in plastic bottles: shampoo and conditioner in 200 milliliter size, Unico Aftershave hydrating lotion with UVA-B filter, Crema Idroattiva body lotion and Latte Dermopurificante facial cream in 60 milliliter size, Velvety Vegetable Soap (75 grams), a Vanity Set with cotton swaps, cotton pads and a nail file, and a Shoe Shine Glove. Room service staff replaced opened packages with new ones when they serviced the room. There were also bathrobes and slippers.

Facilities In addition to a 3,500 square meter spa, there were three pools (one indoor), access partially enclosed salt water bathing area, a fitness center, and three restaurants (two were open while we were there; the third one was being relocated).

Fitness Center And Spa The fitness center and spa were under renovation. The parts of the spa that were open were modern looking, spacious and brightly lit. The fitness center had Technogym equipment. The 2008 Condé Nast Traveller listed Le Terme della Regina Isabella as the fourth Best Spa in the world.

Pool And Beach The hotel had private docking facilities, indoor and outdoor pools and two small beaches, one to either side of the property. Perhaps because the ambient and water temperatures were still cool when we were there we saw no one at either beach (there were no beach chairs or umbrellas).

We saw two heated swimming pools with seawater in the hotel, an indoor pool within the spa area and an outer bay facing pool adjacent to the bar. Both had lounge chairs and the outer pool also had umbrellas to provide shade from the sun. On the west side of the hotel there was an open deck will lots of lounge chairs. A small beach on one side and a step ladder on the other allowed guests to enter a partially enclosed salt water swimming area. On the other side of the hotel, there was a second beach area which could be seen from the main restaurant dining room.

The second indoor pool, filled with thermal-water and known as the Risveglio dei Sensi pool (sensory awakening pool) was 15 square meters and used for music-therapy, chrome-therapy and aromatherapy. The main pool was 143 square meters large, the secondary pool was 110 square meters, the indoor and thermal pool was 40 square meters.

Conference Rooms There were five meeting rooms: Sala Azzurra, Sala Pinetina, Sala delle Carte, Sala delle Ginestre and Sala delle Bouganville able to accommodate between 30 and 150 people.

Other Richard Burton, Liz Taylor, Maria Callas, William Holden, Sheryl Crowe, Gwyneth Paltrow, Matt Damon, Jude Law and Andrea Bocelli are among the many celebrities that have stayed at the hotel. There were two small beaches on the property, one next to the open deck and a second one on the opposite side of the building facing the small marina. The marina was picturesque and provided a lovely background for the hotel. On Saturday the traffic of boats visiting and anchored in the bay area made a lot of noise. The number of families increased on the weekend. The sounds of children playing below carried to our fifth story balcony and inside the room.

The mini bar had six glasses of cut crystal in three different sizes, as well as two champagne flutes and two fine glasses. There were full size bottles of whiskey, vodka, wine, gin, grappa, port and cognac as well as chilled beverages in a mini refrigerator.

The television was connected to the bathroom so that when we turned on the television the sound was heard in the bathroom. Although we could control the volume (with a dial button marked “music”), we were unable to turn off the sound in the bathroom.

Cleanliness Very good

Date Of Review April 2010

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Service Our room was serviced twice a day. The staff we encountered were efficient, especially Raffaello at the concierge desk who was friendly and helpful and spoke some English. Although he was nearly always busy he had a ready smile when we approached him.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Our first impression of the Romeo Hotel was in an unexpected venue. As we exited our high speed train from Rome we met Antonio Deperte, the newly appointed general manager of the hotel who had volunteered to pick us up at the train and personally introduce us to the much maligned Italian city. His warm greeting, in American English, and the short drive from the station to the hotel in a vintage Jaguar together set the tone for our lovely two-night stay at the art filled property.

This 84-room boutique hotel across the street from the Port of Naples in Italy had many outstanding features. The architectural style, a blend of modern Japan meets Southern Italy, was distinctive and memorable. A myriad touches set the hotel apart from the usual chain hotels and garden variety independently owned properties. It was clear the owner of the hotel and his staff were striving for excellence. From the leather electronic key holder to the custom designed toiletries bottles, iPod nano with speakers and preloaded music, original artwork and distinctive elevators there was frequently something unexpected to be found within the hotel.

Although the Romeo Hotel was undergoing renovations when we were there causing the temporary relocation of its restaurants and the closure of the spa and pool, we especially enjoyed our stay there. We liked our spacious corner suite with a view of the sea and the port, scented toiletries, modern features and Japanese influence, lovingly decorated and assembled artwork scattered throughout the property, efficient and service oriented staff, and the excellent in-house sushi and gourmet restaurants. We were particularly impressed with Andrea Aprea’s elegant and delicious yet distinctively Neapolitan tasting menu.

An outstanding hotel is more than bricks and mortar. It is also the quality, interest and dedication of its owners and staff. This was the case with the Romeo. Thanks in great part to the staff’s efforts and recommendations we discovered a little of the city on foot and by car. We look forward to returning to the hotel to experience it post renovations and to further discover the city.

Children The hotel welcomed children of all ages

Class Of Accommodation Five star luxury hotel

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi access in our suite. The connection worked well.

General Manager Antonio L. Deperte

Handicapped Access The property had designated rooms and toilettes for wheelchair bound guests and an amplifier system for hearing impaired visitors in the meeting rooms.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location Across the street from the Port of Naples.

Owned And Managed Romeo Alberghi S.r.l. (Alfredo Romeo)

Pets Allowed No

Size There were 84 rooms and 58 employees in the ten-floor hotel.

Year Opened-Renovated The hotel opened December 2008 and was undergoing major renovations during our visit.

Lobby And Common Areas The hotel, designed by Kenzo Tange and Associates of Tokyo, was styled to be the union between contemporary Japanese and Italian design. The Hotel Romeo was built on the abandoned shell of the former headquarters of the cruise line Flotta Lauro, built in the 1950s and considered by some one of the first modern buildings of Naples at the time. The building’s original glass façade was easily recognized and made the property well known to the public.

In the hotel, Tange Associates sought to acknowledge the importance of the respected building while designing a concept in homage to the former Palazzo Lauro. Part of the idea was to incorporate the obvious connection between the building and the sea in an updated design.

The architects designed the curvilinear form within the glass front of the building to symbolize the movement of the waves and soften the character of the building to reflect a warm and appealing point of interest. The wooden louvers at the top of the building, reminiscent of the wooden decking and finishings aboard a ship, were meant to soften the building’s character by adding a human scale to the facade and serve as another reminder of the sea.

The interior was designed to be open and contemporary while emphasizing the human scale. There were walls of Macassar ebony and art features throughout. The Japanese architects set out to create an open plan to maximize space in the hotel rooms. The bathrooms too were open although they included sliding partitions for privacy when required. The furnishings were by B&B Italia, an Italian modern furniture manufacturer.

In the common areas there was art by: Gregorio Botta, Untitled 2005 in wax, glass, pigments, rice paper (Cristallo Bar); Francesco Clemente, Untitled 2008 mixed technique (ground floor hall and lift); Sergio Fermariello, Cacciaspiriti 1. Il Cavaliere e la sua ombra (Ghoshunter 1. The Knight and its Shade) Cacciaspiriti 2. Lemure (Ghoshunter 2. Lemure) 2008 in steel (lobby) and Frammenti di naufragio (Fragments of a Shipwreck) 2008 in glass and steel (Cristallo Bar); and Mario Schifano, Untitled 1988 mixed technique on canvas (lobby).

The antiquary collection: Globo celeste, Globo terrestre (Celestial Globe, Terrestrial Globe) from Rome second half of XVIII century (reception area); Rameau Baby Grand Piano from Paris 1980s (Zero Sushi Bar); Plastic model of the city of Naples from Naples first half of XVIII century (reception area); Bench with backrest and armrest from Middle Europe XVII century (lobby); two armchairs “Asia” from Asia XIX century (Zero Sushi Bar); two Bergere armchairs from Paris mid XVIII century (lobby); Armour and Japanese Art: Tatewaku Nimai-Do Gusoku Edo period XVII-XIX century (Zero Sushi Bar); Gomai-Okegawa-Do Tosei-Gusoku second half-end of Edo period XVIII-XIX century (Zero Sushi Bar); two travel folding armchairs Ching Dinasty Kwang-Hsu period 1874 (reception area); two horn and wood tripod stools Middle Europe XIX century (lobby); Seven Consoles Luis XIV, Luis XV, Luis XVI from Naples XVIII century (lift foyers from the first to the eight floor); and three Copper bass-relief from 1950 and part of the Palazzo Lauro collection (internal staircase). There was also a Juke Box Wurlitzer from the United States from the 1950s in the first floor recreational area.

Bathroom There was a half bathroom (toilet, sink and bidet) next to the entrance and an en suite bathroom in the bedroom with a glass sink, bidet, toilet. A glass door led to a second area within the bathroom that housed a doorless shower and an oval plastic bathtub. Sunlight came in through a rectangular window, behind the bathtub, that faced the street (because of the positioning there was privacy).

Room We stayed in a 72 square meter suite, Romeo Bay View Suite 702, a bay facing corner contemporary style suite on the seventh floor with a view of the Port of Naples and its environs. An electronic key opened the door leading to a small foyer with a mirrored door closet with an electronic safe within.There was a guest bathroom on the opposite side of the foyer. Designed in a Japanese style with wood veneer flooring, accents and walls the suite was divided into two main areas, a living area and a sleeping area. The living area had a pine wood veneer partial ceiling and middle section. Against the far wall there was a lime green sectional sofa. The middle of the room was taken up by a coffee table. A flat screen television hung across from the sofa. In the corner nearest the entrance there was a desk with a Sony computer with flat screen, Bang & Olufsen hand held phone and fax machine. Nearby and built into the wall there was space for a Nespresso machine and underneath it there was a mini bar with a refrigerator. A mirrored door on the right and a glass door on the left led to the sleeping area of the room.

To the right of the sleeping area there was a walk-in closet with luggage racks,hanging space and a desk with an armless chair. In the room, against the wall, there was a glass cabinet. A comfortable and extra large single mattress bed set against a small green headboard occupied the center of the room facing a flat screen television. A wood panel identical to the one in the living area ran behind and above the bed about two thirds into the room. There were matching wood veneer night tables. One had a Bang & Olufsen wired phone and the other one had a tray with a bottle of water and an iPod Romeo nano with house loaded music and a remote control with speaker. Two lime green armchairs stood against the other side of the room, adjacent to the floor to ceiling windows facing Cristoforo Columbus street and the port. A floor to ceiling mirror ran the length of a column on one side of the room. There were three Bang & Olufsen phones in the room: a wireless handheld one on the desk, a wired unit on the night table and a wall unit in the master bathroom.

To manage the strong sunlight there were floor to ceiling double curtains in hunter green, thin veneer curtains and wood shutters. Wood and glass frames enveloped original art on the walls. Temperature control was through digital wall displays. Glass and metal lamps stood upright and hung from the ceiling. There were also recessed lights. Additional contemporary features were volcanic stone planters and a “broken glass” table that held the television in the living area. The television in the bedroom hung from a wood veneer fixture above a small black table. Lights were motion activated. At our request, a maintenance staff person adjusted the controls allowing us the additional option of manual control of the lights.

Food And Restaurants Breakfast was served in a ground floor restaurant to the left rear of the building entrance (the same room where we had sushi one night). The buffet service included fresh fruit cups, cold cuts, cheese and cold fish platters, pastries, yogurt, mini size cereal box selection, fresh brewed coffee and a tea and herbal infusion section. In addition to the breakfast area, there were two restaurants, Il Comandante, for gourmet fare, and Zero, a sushi bar where we had a pre dinner snack and aperitif. Zero, led by Keisuke Aramaki, a Japanse sushi chef, had an eight meter arabesque marble counter, a long bar and a central water canopy.

Amenities There were house brand scented made-in-Italy toiletries: hand soap (my favorite), shampoo, conditioner, body gel, bath salts, and tiny size night, day, hand cream and lip balm. There were also cloth slippers, electronic safe, two complimentary Nespresso coffee capsules, complimentary 750 milliliter Laurentana still water, welcome pastries, almond paste filled chocolates, and thick cotton hotel branded Aranaldo Caprai bathrobes with a hoodie.

Facilities There were two restaurants (Il Comandante and Zero Sushi Bar), a cigar room, and Cristallo Bar, a snack bar. The spa which was being rebuilt during our visit was due to open in Autumn 2010.

Conference Facilities There were five meeting rooms that could be equipped with video-projectors, rigid or plasma screens, microphones, amplifier for hearing impaired, and translation box: Lauro of 102 square meters for up to 100 guests; Vespucci of 39 square meters for up to 30 guests; Doria of 25 square meters for up to 20 guests; Colombo of 20 square meters for up to 12 guest and Relax of 19 square meters.

Other The hotel was in the 2010 Condé Nast Traveller Hot List.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review April 2010

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Our week-long trip aboard the SeaDream II was reminiscent of the by-gone days of classic ship travel where passengers had an opportunity to meet each other while sharing time and space with fellow travelers and crew members. In an era fraught with time constraints our “cruise” aboard SeaDream II provided us the luxury of meeting like minded people while enjoying a leisurely and luxurious voyage along the coast from Italy to Spain in the prime of the area’s tourist season.

We thoroughly enjoyed the pluses the sailing offered such as a limited number of passengers (there were 108 of us) and high crew to passenger ratio (there were 96 crew members). From the beginning, we were impressed with the personalized service and staff member’s ability to recognize passengers by name. Even by these high standards, food service and dining room staff, under the vigilant supervision of chief steward Christophe Cornu, stood out for their professionalism and extraordinary service. His staff were efficient, attentive, knowledgeable about the meals, and frequently remembered guest preferences. Meals were served at set times and were prepared to order. Dishes looked appetizing, were well prepared and arrived hot when they were supposed to. We especially liked that meals were a la carte (only breakfast included a buffet portion) after which we always felt satisfied without being overfull. Our hat is off to the chef and pastry chef for feeding us well and frequently in a moving vessel where supplies and last minute changes of schedule must present challenges land based chefs rarely encounter.

We found many attractive features aboard the recently refurbished ship, formerly part of the Seabourn fleet. Service and gratuities, meals, snacks, room service orders, wines, champagne and most drinks were included. There were plenty of poolside and top deck comfortable lounge chairs though sometimes it was too windy and cold for us to enjoy them; complimentary activities such as yoga classes, walks with activities led by staff members at some ports, a brief visit to the bridge, karaoke singing, use of books, magazines, board games, a small selection of DVDs and CDs from the ship’s library, swimming in the pool, Jacuzzi, working out in the fitness area (with a marvelous view of the water), water sports on one occasion, evening movies in the Main Salon, live music (guitar and piano) and an impromptu Flamenco performance which we much enjoyed. We took advantage of some of the additional options requiring supplementary fees such as shore excursions (available at every port we visited), Segway rentals, spa treatments, Internet surfing, and fine dining shore side (SeaDream II staff assisted us with selection and reservations at an enchanting gourmet restaurant).

The weather cooperated only part of the time during our trip. Strong winds and choppy waters made plenty of passengers seasick one day and threatened to at least once more. In response, the captain shared updates over the loudspeaker and assured us he would lead us to calmer waters as soon as possible. Sea sickness pills were readily available and the crew responded quickly and effectively to the situation by switching routing and ports. Although this caused the cancellation of visits to popular ports such as Portofino, the crew adjusted the itinerary and provided desirable alternatives including an unscheduled excursion opportunity to Lucca or Florence and a delightful daylong stop in legendary Saint Tropez.

We were amazed at how many of our fellow passengers had traveled aboard the SeaDream or SeaDream II on past occasions, some of them several times. They greeted and were greeted by staff members who recognized them from previous trips; and several of them booked 2006 sailings before the conclusion of our voyage. Almost all of the travelers, mainly couples and family groups, we spoke with, seemed to have enjoyed the SeaDream II experience. As the week progressed we understood their preference for the cozy yachting oriented options SeaDream II offered. It’s difficult for a trip to be flawless or offer everything a traveler wants. It was impressive to find a classy company which excelled and succeeded a majority of the time. We have already recommended SeaDream II to friends and are considering repeat visits ourselves.

About The Crew Ours was diverse with crew members from nearly 20 countries including England, France, Holland, Hungary, Norway, and the Philippines. Some like the captain had many years of sailing experience, others stood out in their chosen vocation such as the capable Dutch chef and pastry chef.

Built The SeaDream II was built in 1984 and refurbished in 2003

Description A week long (Saturday to Saturday) cruise aboard a refurbished cruise ship with a limited number of passengers. Emphasis was on personalized service, well prepared meals and a quality experience for adults; there were few if any activities for children and the ambiance was adult oriented. All meals (at set times) and snacks in between meals were included as were most on board activities. Most drinks including wines with meals, cocktails and champagne were included except for premium varieties which were available for a reasonable supplement. On shore, passengers were usually on their own to relax, meander about on foot, hire a car or sign up for a third party shore excursion made available through the ship at an additional cost (usually starting at $100 and up per person and exclusive to SeaDream II passengers). Dress was casual although some guests enjoyed dressing up in evening gowns and tuxes for dinner for their own pleasure.

Duration Seven nights (arrival was on a Saturday afternoon between 2 and 5) and departure was the following Saturday morning between 7 and 10 a.m.).

Executive Crew Captain Erik Lund Anderssen SeaDream II master, chef de cuisine Robert van Rijsbergen, sommelier Ferenc Kis, chief steward Christophe Cornu

Handicapped Access Limited. There was an elevator which many of the elderly passengers with ambulatory challenges made use of. The gangway stairs to board the ship required some care to negotiate for anybody with physical impediments. We observed a number of passengers anxious when boarding the tenders, especially when the water was choppy.

Internet Connectivity There was access to the Internet from staterooms and from the yacht’s Library ($5 for the first 10 minutes and $3 for each additional 10-minute period). The charge was $35 for 24 hours of unlimited access. Laptops were available at no charge. We connected using our laptop. Setting it up was as easy as setting up in a hotel room; the communications officer came to our room to set it up within five minutes of our request. The connection was via satellite and speedy although we had some difficulties on one occasion with outgoing emails due to a spam block.   

Location In the Mediterranean Sea sailing from Rome, Italy to Barcelona, Spain  

Managed SeaDream Yachts, Inc.

Owned Atle Brynestad

Sailing Route Original program: Civitavecchia (Rome), Sorrento, Porto Ercole, Portofino, Monte Carlo, Port Vendres, Barcelona. Revised program due to weather conditions: Civitavecchia (Rome), Sorrento, Saint Estefano, Livornio, Monte Carlo, Saint Tropez and Barcelona.

Size The yacht could accommodate a maximum of 100 passengers in 54 staterooms and had a crew of 92.

Common Areas The ship boasted comfortable contemporary casual décor. There was cloth furniture in the downstairs dining rooms, wicker and cushions in the outdoor top decks, various kinds of lounge and deck chairs poolside and on the top outdoor decks. One of our favorite spots to relax were the large elevated double and single cushioned areas near the rear of the ship. In spite of the loud noise, it was a relaxing place to spend a few minutes in between meals or lounge on when feeling lazy.  

The Vessel The SeaDream II has a gross tonnage of 4260. It is 344 feet long and has a 47 foot beam. Its maximum speed is 14 knots. It had a Bahamian registry.

Cabins And Heads Our cabin or stateroom (#401) was 195 square feet in size. Immediately next to the entrance there was a small closet with two hanging sections (one above the other). The other side of the closet housed the bathrobes and allowed us to hang full length items. The third and smallest section of the closet had shelves.

Beyond the closet there was a sitting area with a built-in cloth settee in a blue gray checkered pattern, two lamps and art work on the wall. Under it, we found life vests in one drawer and extra storage space in the second drawer. An elongated wood table faced the settee.  Across from the settee there was a wood built-in desk/entertainment/entertainment area with remote controlled flat screen 15 “ Sharp TV, Toshiba DVD player and Sony CD player. There were glasses in another shelf. A Zodiac Freedcom 1 phone was located on the desk immediately under the light switches and single 110 v. electrical outlet in the cabin. There was also an ice bucket and services folder on the desk.  There were three drawers in the lower part of the desk. To the right there was an electronic safe, quarter size refrigerator and storage area.

The sitting and sleeping areas were divided by an off white cloth curtain. Beyond the curtain, we found two twin beds adjacent to each other and positioned against a wooden headboard. A small painting hung above the bed; a night table with a lamp was on either side of the beds. A large mirror occupied the top half of the bed facing wall. A shelf the length of the sleeping area lay below the mirror. It included a small stool that allowed the area to function as a vanity. There were plants on either side of the shelf along with a magnifying make-up mirror. There was a large two-sided porthole beyond the bed that looked directly outside.

Except for minor inconveniences (we could clearly hear the music and piano bar noises at night and people talking in the hallway adjacent to our cabin. There was a slight musty odor in the room when we arrived) the cabin was very comfortable and a convenient place to spend time when we felt like being indoors. Except for certain plumbing sounds in the head, we never heard any sounds from neighboring cabins.

The head (bathroom), though small, offered everything we needed. There was a flushing toilet, sink, two small shelves next to the large mirror and a glass enclosed full size shower with three shower heads and a circular temperature dial.  The floor and walls were covered in beige marble. There were tissues from a receptacle near the sink, toiletries on the shelves and a cotton and cotton swab container.

Meals-Restaurants Meals were served at set times as follows: breakfast from 8 to 10 a.m., lunch from 12 to 2 p.m. and dinner from 8 to 10 p.m. Outside of those times it was possible to order snacks from a set weeklong menu in our cabin or on the upper decks during the day. Breakfast consisted of a buffet of cereals (in small boxes), yogurt, fresh and canned fruit, cheeses, cold cuts (one or more of the following smoked salmon, salami, ham or turkey), an ample selection of bread and pastries, butter, jam, and juices including some squeezed on board. We also had the option, which we took advantage of several times, of ordering hot dishes and daily specials a la carte.

Lunch options varied daily. We missed lunch on a number of occasions in order to visit exciting ports and attractions. On those days, we ate shore side or had a snack when we returned to the ship.  Room service was fast. One afternoon we were peckish and ordered a club sandwich. Ten minutes later someone was knocking on our door with the sandwich! Hors d’oeuvres and aperitifs were served nightly an hour before dinner in the Salon. We especially enjoyed the caviar and seafood medley serving. There were also sushi, Mediterranean or other themed options.

Dinner was the main meal of the day in terms of pomp and fanfare. Everyone supped in the main dining room on Deck 2, where tables were attractively set with silver, china and crystal ware. There were several choices from the a la carte menu including vegetarian options and Oriental Wellness Cuisine. There was always fresh bread and an assortment of European cheeses to choose from as well as a red and white wine option of the sommelier’s daily selection. He also made recommendations of optional wines available for a supplementary fee.

Some of the dishes we tried were Cream of Celery flavored with Nutmeg, Consommé, Sautéed Sea Scallops with Pumpkin Risotto and Parmesan Shavings, Grilled Veal Saltimbocca with Fresh Sage Leaves Herb Linguini and Marsala Sauce, Fresh Yellow fin Tuna with Haricot Verts, Green Asparagus, Mashed Potato and Veal Stock Reduction, Carpaccio of Beef Tenderloin with Roquette Lettuce and Parmesan Shavings, Cream of Forest Mushrooms with White Truffle Oil, Escargots “Bourguignon,” Grilled Lobster Tail with Green Asparagus, Red Bell Pepper, Garlic Creamed Pomme Purée, Cream of Roma Tomato with Fresh Basil, Whole Roast Prime Ribeye Beef with Pont Neuf Potatoes, Compote of Root Vegetables and Burgundy Sauce,  Smoked Salmon Tartar on Cauliflower Salad and Caviar Crème, Puff Pastry with Tomato and Melted Goat Cheese, French Style Onion Soup with Cheese Crouton, Grilled Swordfish Steak on Artichoke a la Barigoule, Boiled Potatoes and Mediterranean Topping, Duck a l’Orange on Braised White Cabbage with Cumin, Pommes Willaim and Grand Marnier Infused Demi Glace. One night the chef prepared an eight-course tasting menu: Mousse of White Asparagus with Marinated Lobster; Homemade Terrine of Foie Gras with Fig Compote and Toasted Butter Brioche; Cream of Pumpkin with Tarragon and Prawns; Fresh Fillet of Seabass “al Forno” on Brandade de Morue ; Braised Scallions and red Beet Dressing; Lime Sorbet with Limoncello di Sorrento; Honey and Five Spice Roasted Saddle of Veal with Caramelized Belgian Endives, Fondant Potato; Poached Rhubarb with Strawberry Flan and Vanilla Ice Cream.

Amenities Bulgari Green Tea toiletries including shower cap, shampoo, conditioner, soap, bath and shower gel, and body lotion. Cotton bathrobes and his and hers oriental style pajamas. Drinks in a smaller cabin refrigerator. Meals, champagne, house wines liquor (except premium brands) and room service. Every night when we returned from dinner there was information on the following day’s activities, information on our next land excursions, the U.S.A. Times summary, a daily amenity such as: two white chocolate dipped strawberries, a long stemmed red rose, a sachet of lavender potpourri, a nautical map, a bucket with a half a bottle of champagne. There was a specially made (and delicious) birthday cake one night.

Leisure Activities Available Shore excursions, golf simulator, Caviar and Champagne Splash, sunbathing on the Balinese Sun Beds, reading (there was a small library on the yacht), shopping (during the day-long stops in European ports and at the yacht’s boutique). One day during our week-long yachting adventure the water sports were made available at the Water Sports Marina though the weather was overcast and much too cold for us to enjoy. A favorite activity was dining (indoor, outdoor and 24-hour room service). The spa ladies spoke little English but were pleasant and helpful. We enjoyed the small sauna and a shower stall that doubled as a steam room (required advance reservations) and a relaxing “deep” massage. One afternoon we tried the new Segway Human Transporter, an 85 lb motorized vehicle that moves in response to the driver’s body motion, in the area next to the ship which was the only place it was allowed. The 10-minute ride was a lot of fun!

Other The Company was founded in September of 2001 by Norwegian entrepreneur Atle Brynestad who founded Seabourn Cruise Line and Larry Pimentel, who was president of Seabourn under Brynestad and later president and CEO of the merged company Cunard-Seabourn. Pimentel is now chairman and chief executive officer of SeaDream and a co-owner. The two friends, Brynestad and Pimentel, brought into SeaDream a small group of management colleagues and shipboard officers and staff.   

Smoking was possible only outdoors.

Cleanliness Very good. We spotted staff cleaning the ship all the time; they scrubbed the decks, polished the bronze fixtures, vacuumed and scoured. The only annoyance was the pesky stowaway flies we seemed to have picked in Rome. They found their way to just about every area on board, including the evening dining room and our cabin. By the end of the trip, they had disappeared.

Date Of Review October 2005

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Service There was twice daily made service and change of towels. The service aboard the SeaDream II was attentive with attention to details. Even within that high standard, service staff in the dining rooms were exceptional. They knew us on site from our first encounter. Christophe, the chief steward, was in charge of food services and handled service issues with military efficiency and gentlemanly politeness. Joram, from Holland, remembered our preferences, made dining recommendations and seemed to anticipate our wants even before we did. Servers Laurent and Sylvester were attentive and kind. Melanie looked after our cabin. It was always well made although by midweek we had only seen here once. She filled our request (air spray to eliminate a slightly musty odor and a thicker duvet as the cabin was chilly) with speed. Christine, the assistant activities director, always had a ready smile and was eager to help as were Verena and Chela at reception.

Would You Take This Voyage Again?  Yes

Reviewers Photographs by Josette King