Overall Impression The Romantik Hotel Spa Les Violettes was our last stop on a tour of the Route des Vins. Today my enthusiasm at exploring Alsace’s famed Wine Road was dampened, literally, by a bone-chilling drizzle that had been falling since morning. Even the traditional half-timbered villages with their bright window boxes overflowing with red geraniums looked forlorn. Then as we were making our way along a remote country road, as if on cue a pool of sunshine bathed the onion-bulb steeple of the Thierenbach Basilica rising from the trees. Halfway up the hill beyond, an imposing pink sandstone façade seemed to glow against its backdrop of dense blue-black forest. How did Les Violettes manage that? I fleetingly wondered.

This was nature’s hint that we had entered a domain where the improbable was to be expected. Located in the foothills of the Vosges Mountains, at the very edge of the Thierenbach Valley, the Romantik Hotel Spa Les Violettes was a mere half hour’s drive south of the medieval and renaissance gems of the historic center of Colmar, and centuries away. Built in the 1920s, this three-story hunting lodge housed for decades a popular local eaterie before being acquired in 2000 by its current owner, who engaged in a thorough 15 million euro (20 million U.S. dollars at the time of this writing) renovation and expansion program. The access drive curved up the hill with the forest to its right. To the left, expanses of terraced lawns, each forming the roof of the building below it, were dotted with oversized bronze urns overflowing with the last of the summer’s flowers. Tall sculptures, contemporary renditions of mythical and religious themes, still damp from the rain, gleamed in the sunshine. In the center of the lowest lawn, the turquoise water of a pond size swimming pool shimmered against a convex backdrop of soaring pale sandstone pillars and glass walls.

After an efficient welcome, we quickly settled into our light-filled room in the new three-story building at the far side original structure and immediately proceeded to get our first taste of the much-vaunted spa facilities. An underground walkway thoughtfully linked the two parts of the hotel, so that unless we chose to, there was no reason to venture out of the pampering embrace of Les Violettes. We did, once during our stay, for a pleasant if muddy walk in the forest. Avid swimmer that I am, I was content to atone the gastronomic overindulgences that Alsace naturally invites with long indoor-outdoor swims interspersed with enjoyable visits to the steam room and multiple saunas. I found the unusual salt cave with its heated ceramic lounging beds and walls coved in crystals of natural salt especially relaxing.

For me, however, the keystone of the property was Le Jardin des Violettes, the outstanding gourmet restaurant where inspired young chef Jérôme Jaeglé dished out sumptuous surprises. He and his enthusiastic team regularly forage the nearby woods to harvest wild greens and mushroom to enhance the in-the-moment bounty of nearby suppliers. With its serene country setting, state of the art spa and superb haute cuisine restaurant, Les Violettes made my list of places to revisit for a relaxing break whenever my travels take me anywhere in or near Alsace.

Children This family-friendly property welcomed children of all ages.

Class Of Accommodation Four star hotel

Concierge Vanessa Wadgi

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi access in the room and common areas. However, service was so slow and erratic in my room as to frequently be inoperable. Access was more reliable in the lounge but remained well under average in speed.

General Manager Mikael Becker

Handicapped Access The entire property was wheelchair friendly. It also had three rooms specifically designed to accommodate motion-impaired guests.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location In Jungholtz, Alsace, in the northeastern corner of France. It was 20 kilometers (12 miles) north of Mulhouse and 25 kilometers (16 miles) south of Colmar.

Owned / managed Philippe Bosc

Pets Allowed Pets were allowed. There was a nominal charge for post-visit room cleaning.

Size Les Violettes had 60 guest rooms, including six suites. It employed a staff of 40, including 10 restaurant personnel.

Year Opened-Renovated The property opened its doors as a luxury inn in 2003 after three years of extensive renovations. The spa was inaugurated in 2008. A contemporary extension was added to the hotel in 2011.

Lobby And Common Areas The reception area was a spacious contemporary addition to the main building. The high ceiling held three period brass chandeliers imaginatively encased in glass drums. The taupe-painted walls provided an effective background for an eclectic selection of antique local art including a remarkable 14 ^th century Virgin and Child polychrome statue. The travertine marble floor set off a large oriental rug in shades of blue on a crimson background. To the left of the entrance, the long wood paneled reception desk blended harmoniously with a square antique country table and side chairs in the center of the room. At the rear of the reception area, to the left of a central elevator, stairs led down to the dining room and spa. On the right, stairs led to the open floor plan lounge and bar that occupied the entire floor. Here, the space had an inviting rustic feel, with coffered polished wood ceiling, herringbone hardwood floor covered with crimson area rugs and paneled knotty pine walls that held oil paintings by various Alsatian masters. There was a floor-to-ceiling fireplace in the far corner of the room, and a tall ceramic woodstove near the paneled bar that occupied the center of the back wall.

The bar was surrounded by six high back barstools upholstered in olive velvet. At the front of the room, a series of French doors opened onto a flagstone terrace surrounded by the lawn that covered the roof of restaurant below. The lawn was a inviting seasonal lounging area with a sweeping view of the basilica and the surrounding hills. The remaining three sides of the room had high windows with taupe draperies. Seating consisted of several groups of comfortable olive velvet sofas and tan and olive striped velvet armchairs arranged around square coffee tables. There was grandfather clock in the corner near the fireplace.

Bathroom The bathroom was to the left of the entrance foyer. The floor and the lower half of the walls were tiled in cream ceramic with burgundy trim. The upper part of the walls was tan plaster. The large corner vanity had a built-in center sink and a knotty pine base with storage space and towel hangers on both sides. A framed mirror hung above the vanity, with a lighted magnifying mirror on one side and a hair dryer on the other. There was a deep, extra-long bathtub with a hand-held shower along the far wall. The commode was at the far corner of the room, facing a wall-hung floor-to-ceiling heated rack that held a pair of oversized bath towels. Recessed spotlights provided the lighting.

Room My 40 square meter (430 square foot) standard room, Number 38, had a relaxing country atmosphere. It included a small entrance foyer with an extra long luggage rack. The room had burgundy wall-to-wall carpeting with slate pin dots. The walls’ wainscoting was knotty pine, as was the furniture and the paneled double doors of the two built-in storage armoires. The upper part of the walls was cream plaster. The front of the room had extra-wide double sliding glass doors that opened onto a spacious balcony with a round table and two rattan armchairs. The pedestal king size bed was covered with a thick down comforter. Its tall headboard had built-in side tables holding candlestick wrought iron reading lamps. Ceiling-recessed spotlights provided additional lighting. Bedding was silky high-count white cotton. The remaining furniture included an overstuffed sofa covered in purple velvet, rectangular coffee table, writing desk and wooden desk chair and a footstool. A flat panel television hung on the wall opposite the bed. The sliding doors and side window near the desk had purple damask draperies. Two modern canvases in shades of blues and slate on a white background hung over the sofa and the desk to completed the décor.

Food And Restaurants Complimentary breakfast was a generous buffet served in Le Jardin des Violettes. Offerings included scrambled or boiled eggs, an assortment of excellent local charcuteries and cheeses, smoked salmon, freshly baked breakfast pastries and whole grain breads. Cold cereals and yogurt were also available. The buffet included an industrial size juicer and a large basket of assorted fresh fruits and carrots, for delicious fresh juices to taste. In addition to pots of coffee, tea and hot chocolate, a Nespresso machine was available with an assortment of capsules.

But it was at dinner time that Le Jardin des Violettes really sparkled, when under the direction of Chef Jérôme Jaeglé it became an exquisitely original restaurant, in my humble opinion, deserving even better recognition than its recently awarded Two Toques from Gault et Millau.

Amenities In-room amenities included electronic safe, bathrobes and slippers. In the bathroom, there were shower caps, cotton swabs, cotton pads, a box of tissues, scale, hair-dryer, and lighted magnifying mirror. Toiletries were individual sizes of house brand organic shampoo, shower gel, body lotion and hand and face soap.

Facilities The property had a lounge and bar, separate fully enclosed smoking room, restaurant (Le Jardin des Violettes) and spa.

Fitness Center And Spa In addition to the pool, the 1,000 square meter (10,800 square foot) Adriana Karembeu Spa had three types of saunas with various heat levels, a steam room, salt cave and a whirlpool hot tub. The spa also featured six private treatment rooms and a comprehensive menu of massages, facials and body treatments.

Pool The huge counter-current indoor-outdoor heated pool was a lap swimmer’s delight. A broad ceramic tile apron lined on the three interior sides and a dozen pale stretched canvas lounge chairs surrounded the indoor pool. The fourth side was a floor-to-ceiling glass wall that overlooked the outdoor part of the pool and its surrounding stone apron. While I thoroughly enjoyed the pool, I was disconcerted on one occasion to see it used by a family group that included a diaper-wearing toddler.

Conference Facilities There was a conference facility annex that could accommodate up to 100 guests.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review September 2012

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service Excellent. Every member of the staff with whom I came in contact during my stay was friendly and helpful. The room was serviced daily.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression It all began some 40 years ago when a talented chef with a vision and an eye for a privileged location rented the first floor of a medieval building with a terrace overlooking the River Lauch in Colmar. Before long people were queuing to enjoy Gilbert Bomo’s jambon à la broche (ham roasted on a spit) and other Alsatian specialties. Fast-forward to the present. In the intervening years, Chef Bomo acquired the gorgeous ancient building on the riverbank, then the three adjoining ones, and gradually turned them into a multi-starred boutique hotel. But the restaurant retained pride of place, by now occupying the entire rear of the property’s first floor. L’Echevin (French for high-ranking medieval magistrate) was born. There, it welcomes guests who now come from far and wide to experience what has evolved into an award-wining menu of imaginative gastronomic offerings based on traditional Alsatian specialties; and to enjoy the romantic candlelit atmosphere of the riverside dining room.

After officiating in the kitchen for almost three decades, Chef Bomo retired in 1999, but not before he had engaged his chosen successor, Thierry Chefdeville, who has run L’Echevin ever since, garnering multiple Michelin and Gault et Millau awards along the way. On my recent visit, one look at the dinner menu promised imaginative variations on local favorites, and an haute cuisine twist to the renowned specialties of the region. It was enough to convince me that even in a town reputed for being home to several bonnes tables (good tables, as the best restaurants are often referred to), I wouldn’t consider dining anywhere else on this visit.

Chef Chefdeville and his team did not disappoint me. Every course was superb, from the nightly opening salvo of surprising amuse-bouche to the irresistible desserts. Even the crusty miniature baguette with three mounds of flavored butter (smoked sea salt, lemon and seaweed) arranged on a slate that arrived with the menu each night before the aforementioned amuse-bouche was memorable. Then there was the wine list with its extensive selection of local labels, a number of them available by the glass for an easy opportunity to discover new favorites; and the ever-attentive service of the friendly staff. Both nights of my visit, with different menus, L’Echevin delivered an outstanding dining experience, one that I will gladly repeat on future visits to the area.

About The Executive Chef A native of Savoie in the French Alps, Thierry Chefdeville worked his way up the eastern corner of France, honing his skills under respected chefs. He established his growing mastery in the kitchen with increasingly more responsible positions, from Annecy and Basel, Switzerland, to Mulhouse where he became executive chef at the Trianon and then the Restaurant Wir. Then in 1998, he was lured to Colmar by Chef Gilbert Bomo, founder of L’Echevin, who was looking for a worthy successor to take over his life’s creation. Chef Chefdeville favored products from local sources, organic whenever available, to create a menu that was a winning balance between traditional Alsatian gastronomy and French haute cuisine techniques.

Executive Chef Thierry Chefdeville

Handicapped Access No

Location L’Echevin occupied the rear of the first floor of the Romantik Hotel Le Maréchal. It overlooked the River Lauch in the historic La Petite Venise (Little Venice) neighborhood of Colmar.

MaÎTre D&Rsquo;HÔTel Geneviève Fisher

Opened-Renovated The restaurant opened in 1972. It was renovated after the current owners acquired the property from the founding chef in 2000.

Owned The Bomo family

Size The two dining rooms could comfortably seat up to 40 guests. An additional dining room was available for private parties, as well as a riverside patio during the summer, which could increase dining capacity up to 80 guests. The restaurant employed a staff of 20.

Type Of Restaurant Intimate luxury gourmet dining

DÉCor-Ambiance The dining room consisted of two connecting areas stretched along the rear of the 16^th century property. The narrow main dining room with its outer wall of wide picture windows had the feel of a cozy veranda overhanging the river. The ceiling was white plaster with bleached wooden beams. The walls were painted bright Persian blue, while the wall-to-wall carpeting was a darker shade of blue with taupe medallions. Brass wall sconces provided the lighting. Small credenzas against the back wall held pots of white orchids. The dining chairs were upholstered in coordinated dark blue and taupe damask. At night, with its row of round tables draped in crisp white linen and its formal crystal and silver setting gleaming in the candlelight, it offered the ideal environment for an intimate dinner. The second dining space had Chinese red walls, a white ceiling with black beams and tan ceramic tile floor covered with oriental rugs. Lighting was a subdued mix of spotlights nestled in the beams and brass wall sconces. Here the tables were mostly rectangular and could be rearranged to accommodate parties of various sizes. There was a large limestone floor-to-ceiling fireplace in the corner of the room. Its awning was dotted with a display of rustic Alsatian china.

Cellars Wine And Alcoholic Beverage Selection The comprehensive wine list included a wide selection of Alsatian wines as well as other wine-growing regions of France. It included a variety of well-priced wines by the glass and a wine paring option with some of the pre-set gastronomic menus. Although a full range of bar drinks was available, I opted to start my meal on both visits with a flute of Crémant d’Alsace, the crisp sparkling wine of the area.

Meal On the evening of my arrival, I chose the Menu d’Anniversaire (Anniversary Menu), a special menu that interpreted traditional hearty local fare for 21 ^st century palates, developed by Chef Chefdeville to mark the 40 ^th Anniversary of the restaurant. The amuse-bouche that materialized shortly after I sat down was an unusual gazpacho of watermelon, served in a double shot glass and paired with a herbed roulade of lightly smoked salmon. The first course of the Anniversary Menu was a generous slice of deer terrine studded with fresh hazelnuts and slivers of foie gras. It was served with a cloud like mousse of sharp horseradish, and a small side timbale of phyllo dough filled with baby curly chicorée salad. As I had opted for the wine pairing, this scrumptious starter was enhanced by a glass of Macon Aze 2009 (a classic Chardonnay with a with a hint of green apple).

A cassolette (small casserole) of lobster followed: a shelled half lobster served on a stew of mussels, clams, scallops and penne pasta in a light cream sauce fragrant with fresh basil. It was accompanied by a glass of a golden full-bodied white Côtes du Rhône, Domaine de la Guicharde, 2010. A much-needed break came at this point, in the form of a tiny glass of muscat wine granita that I would gladly have called dessert. But it was merely a prelude to the next course, several paper-thin slices of medium rare filet of beef on a tartlet of morels au gratin, accompanied by a deep crimson Alsatian pinot noir with a lovely red berry palate with a hint of vanilla (Ginglinger, 2010). Mercifully, I had had the foresight to pre-order a light dessert: a delicious Mirabelle Pot de Crème paired with a mound of verbena ice cream. It was a meal worthy of an impressive anniversary celebration indeed.

Having also reserved a table for the following night I resolved to show more restrain in the selection of my second dinner. Said restrain lasted only as long as it took me to spy the paté de foie gras at the top of the appetizer offerings. Even my requested half portion was a hefty slab of velvet smooth goose liver paté, served with a pear chutney crumble, and the de rigueur slice of toasted brioche. It was followed by grilled Arctic char on a bed of truffle risotto garnished with a Parmesan tuile . On this occasion, I opted to sip on my flute of Crémant throughout the meal. Kudos to Catherine Wiss, the charming and attentive assistant maître d’hôtel, who was filling in for her boss that evening, for recommending the perfect dessert to end my meal. The Croustillant Praliné was an exquisite mango-raspberry mousse on a disc of crunchy Dacquoise, coated with a thick cream of bitter chocolate, and garnished with gold threads for good measure. A superb finale to this two-night gastronomy extravaganza.

Other L’Echevin was the recipient of a 2012 Two Toques award (for the third year in a row) from Gault et Millau, and a Three Fourchettes award from Michelin.

Reservations Strongly recommended

Date Of Review September 2012

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service The service was excellent, friendly, attentive and professional.

Would You Dine There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression Le Jardin des Violettes had it all: a secluded yet easily accessible bucolic setting, an inviting dining room, and the ultimate trump card, an outstanding young chef. Located within the Romantik Hotel and Spa Les Violettes at the edge the lush forested foothills of the Vosges Mountains, the restaurant overlooked the farmland of Alsace’s famed Route des Vins . Its spacious dining room was lined with broad picture windows and French doors that gave the room an airy atmosphere and let in the tranquil country vistas. In season, it opened onto a terrace and lawns that provided a lovely stage for al fresco dining. However, I especially enjoyed the room at night when the indirect lighting subdued by crimson silk shades bathed the space in a faint rosy glow. It enhanced the formal table settings and provided just the right touch of romance to showcase the exceptional cuisine of Chef Jérôme Jaeglé

“Discovering an inspired new chef is what finding a treasure must feel like,” my father, himself a respected chef in the grand French tradition, once told me. I knew halfway through the meal that I had just come across such a gem. Each dish rejoiced the eye and regaled the palate. Paté de foie gras came on a shimmering pool of herbed green tea jelly; red snapper skin was scored into thick julienne strips and caramelized crackling-style while the fillet beneath was cooked to delicate perfection. Cauliflower became a savory crumble; chestnuts discretely found their way into a wild mushroom duxelle ; I was smitten.

Chef Jaeglé’s imagination and his rigorous attention to detail permeated every mouthful; and his enthusiasm for sharing his art was infectious. When he came out of the kitchen at the end of the evening, it was not for a well-deserved victory lap but to exchange thoughts on our dining experience and share his vision. “I was drawn to the artistic side of the profession, the opportunity for creativity,” he confirmed as an answer to the ritual question of why he became a chef. The woodlands location of Les Violettes was heaven to him. “The forest shows us boundless generosity,” he enthused. A couple of mornings a week, he led his team on a foraging expedition for wild greens, mushrooms, herbs and berries. These along with the best and freshest products his nearby suppliers offer guided his inspiration for a menu that changed each month at most.

With Chef Jaeglé in the kitchen Le Jardin des Violettes delivered a compelling dining experience that for me elevated the restaurant to the status of destination onto itself. I intend to revisit and share it with Paris friends at the first opportunity, so that we can enjoy the rise of this virtuoso young chef.

About The Executive Chef The son of a local butcher and caterer and grandson a farmer, Jérôme Jaeglé knew early on that he was meant to be a chef. “I started handling knives at the age of nine,” he confided, “in the kitchen with my father.” Today, although still only in his early thirties, his exceptional professional credentials speak of a prodigy’s trajectory: chef at Jean Yves Schilinger (a Colmar culinary landmark) then at Christian Têtedoie in Lyon before taking the helm of Le Jardin des Violettes in early 2012. Meanwhile he still found time to stand out in some of the most respected French and international culinary competitions. A two-time winner of the National Taitinger Competition (in 2006 and 2008) and recipient of a bronze medal in the Paul Bocuse European Competition in 2010, he went on to take fourth place in the 2011 Bocuse Worldwide event. Today Chef Jaeglé delights in making the most of the exceptional rural location of Les Violettes. He lets the bounty of the restaurant’s forest surroundings as well as the seasonal availability of locally sourced products guide his creativity, using wild mushrooms and little known, commercially unavailable greens and herbs that lend his cuisine its unique cachet.

Executive Chef Jérôme Jaeglé

Handicapped Access Yes

Location The Jardin des Violettes was located in The Romantik Hotel and Spa Les Violettes in Jungholtz, Alsace. It was 20 kilometers (12 miles) south of Mulhouse and 16 miles (25 kilometers) north of Colmar.

Maitre D&Rsquo;Hotel Anne-Lise Reitter

Opened-Renovated 2003.

Owned Philippe Bosc

Pastry Chef Dan Touati

Size The dining room could sit a maximum of 70. The restaurant employed a staff of 10.

Sommelier Alexandre Figenwald

Type Of Restaurant French haute cuisine

DÉCor-Ambiance The elegant dinning room was decorated in shades of cinnabar and taupe that gave the formal space a warm and cozy ambiance. Thick wall-to-wall carpeting, sound absorbing wall covering, velvet draperies on the large pictures windows and French doors all but eliminated ambient noise. Deep red silk shades on the ceiling chandeliers and candlestick lamps on narrow credenzas along the walls enhanced the intimate feel created by the generously spaced tables. The comfortable velvet-upholstered barrel chairs were an invitation to settle for a long, unhurried meal. Against the back wall, the recessed open kitchen allowed a glimpse at the wonders that were unfolding there, without commanding attention.

Cellars Wine And Alcoholic Beverage Selection The extensive wine list featured a wide selection of Alsatian wines as well as wines from other wine-growing regions of France. It offered a small selection of wines by the glass, including an excellent Crémant d’Alsace (the crisp sparkling wine of the area, which I especially enjoyed as an aperitif). A full selection of bar drinks was also available.

Meal We dined at Le Jardin des Violettes on two occasions, opting on the first night for the Menu Degustation (Tasting Menu). After an amuse-bouche of smoked trout and herbed goat-cheese roulade served with a freshly baked cheese wafer, the meal began with a generous nugget of paté de foie gras on a bed of green tea jelly, followed by a slab of Arctic char served rare, topped with a crumble of caramelized cauliflower and a side portion of a scrumptious cloud light bright green vegetable mousse that my friend and I were at a loss to identify. Chef Jaeglé later confided that it was a blend of ten locally harvested wild greens and herbs. Fillet of red snapper was next, its deeply scored skin grilled to a satisfying crunch, served on a bed of diced celeriac and chestnuts. The next course was a saddle of lamb, served precisely as ordered (medium rare), with roasted baby carrots and Ratte potatoes over a divine reduction of roasting juices. To enhance our meal, we selected (with the help of Alexandre, our knowledgeable young sommelier) a memorable bottle of Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg 2010, Domaine Weinbach, Kaysersberg.

For our next meal, the last of an over-indulgent few days in Alsace, we begged Chef Jaeglé for “something light”. What followed was a sumptuous succession of surprises that included a mousseline of potatoes with walnut oil, garnished with oxalis (tiny wood sorrel leaves with a tangy, peppery taste), a mussels fricassée rich in saffron, served over a mousse of wild greens, and a cassolette (small casserole) filled with a medley of fragrant wild mushrooms still hinting of the woodlands from where they had been recently plucked. Nestled in the center of it, we discovered an egg softly poached in mushroom juices. Divine. Both nights dessert was a different variation of chestnut-based confections, one of my favorite fall treats.

Other Le Jardin des Violettes was recognized in 2012 with a Two Toques award from Gault et Millau.

Reservations Strongly recommended

Date Of Review September 2012

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service The service was excellent, friendly, attentive and professional.

Would You Dine There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression The history of Alsace is well documented, as far back as 58 B.C. when along with the rest of Gaul (great swaths of what is now France) it was conquered by Caesar. Rome attached the region to its Germania Superior province. Thus began a tumultuous two-millennia history during which this wedge of rich alluvial plain, 190 kilometer (118 mile) long by 50 kilometer (31 mile) wide at its largest, between the western bank of the Rhine River and the Vosges Mountains changed hands several times between France and Germany. This generated a unique culture that, while remaining resolutely French, abounds with unmistakably German elements in its traditions, architecture, arts and cuisine.

The Romans also molded the landscape of Alsace when they developed viticulture in the area. Today, the undulating hills are streaked with vineyards punctuated by picturesque half-timbered villages where winemaking has remained a proud tradition for centuries. While this has preserved a vibrant rural life, one-third of Alsace’s population of two million now lives in its three main cities: Strasbourg, Mulhouse and Colmar. The largest, Strasbourg, is the regional capital as well as seat of the European Parliament. Its large, well-preserved historic center is a medieval cityscape of tall black and white timber-framed structures, dominated by the famous sandstone gothic Cathédrale Notre Dame with its soaring single spear and astronomical clock. Mulhouse, the second largest and southern-most city of Alsace, is mainly known as an industrial hub. Meanwhile, in the center of the region, Colmar stands at the heart of what is known as La Route des Vins , a 170 kilometer (106 mile) road that meanders north to south through the vineyards. With its cobblestone streets lined with brightly colored half-timbered homes, ancient canals and the Unterlinden Museum with its rich collection of gothic and renaissance masterpieces, Colmar is one of the top tourist attractions in Alsace.

Like its wines, the gastronomy of Alsace is world-renowned, based on such delicacies as paté de foie gras (goose liver paté, which originated here in the 18 ^th century), its impressive array of local charcuteries and smoked fish as well as the iconic choucroute garnie (a mild type of sauerkraut simmered in white wine with pork meats and sausages) and Munster cheese. In recent decades, a number of excellent chefs have used this bounty to develop a new, somewhat lighter cuisine inspired by the traditional dishes, attracting the attention of gourmets as well as oenophiles to the area in ever growing numbers.

With its easy train and road access from Paris as well as the proximity of nearby German and Swiss cities, whether for its gastronomy or medieval culture, Alsace has become an ever more popular tourism destination.

Cost Of Visiting Average

Currency Euro

Electrical Current 220 volt

How To Get There Alsace is easily accessible from just about anywhere in Europe via air, road and train. The Strasbourg-Entzheim International Airport receives flights from most main European cities and beyond. Major highways link the area to Paris as well as Germany and Switzerland (via Stuttgart and Basel respectively). The most efficient and comfortable way to travel to Alsace from Paris is via one of the several daily high speed TGVs ( Train à Grande Vitesse ) that reach Strasbourg in a mere two hours and twenty minutes, before continuing on to Colmar and Mulhouse.

Location In northeastern France. Alsace is bound by Germany to the north, the Rhine River (and Germany beyond) to the east, Switzerland to the south and the Vosges Mountains to the west.

Measures Metric system

Technology High-speed Internet connectivity and mobile phone reception were widely available in and around the cities and the plain villages. Service was erratic in some rural areas of the foothills of the Vosges.

Time GMT/UTC plus one hour

Transportation Local trains and buses link the various cities, towns and even villages of Alsace. Thanks to the short distances between them, the area also attracts cyclists and hikers. However, for those less athletically inclined or short on time, renting a car is the best option to explore at will.

Shopping In addition local wines, fruit brandies, foodstuff and Christmas themed goods, there were local woodcarvings and an abundance of tourist trinkets.

Tourism Highlights For first time visitors, the “guidebooks musts” are well documented and too many to mention here.

In Strasbourg alone, where the entire city center was classified a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1988, the neighborhoods around the stunning gothic cathedral have retained their medieval character. Best known is the Quartier des Tanners (tanner’s neighborhood) along the Ill River. The city also boasts of several notable museums including the Musée de l’Oeuvre Notre-Dame adjacent to the cathedral. It houses a large collection of medieval and renaissance Upper-Rhenish art, including original plans, sculptures and stain glass from the cathedral. The nearby baroque Palais de Rohan houses the Musée des Beaux Arts (Fine Arts Museum) with a significant collection of old European masters including Tintoretto, Paolo Veronese, Francisco de Goya, El Greco, Sandro Botticelli, Peter Paul Rubens, Anthony van Dyck and Hans Memling.

Chateau Du Haut Koenigsbourg Perched on a 700 meter (2,300 foot) ledge of the Vosges Mountains, overlooking the plain of Alsace and the Rhine River, this beautifully preserved 13 ^th century fortress is now a museum furnished with period furniture. Its breathtaking view of the plain illustrates its original strategic purpose.

Christmas Markets are a deep-rooted tradition in Alsace during Advent, offering all manner of locally crafted goods of the season, including wood, pottery and blown glass Christmas decorations and hand carved wooden nativity figurines. They also carry a large variety of Holidays foodstuff. They are hugely popular with the tourists and draw upwards of two million visitors per year. The largest and most famous ones (also the most crowded, especially on weekends) are in Strasbourg, Mulhouse, Colmar and Kaisersberg.

La Route Des Vins D&Rsquo;Alsace wends its way north to south from Marlenheim to Thann through a succession of villages and towns, many of them featuring characteristic half-timbered facades and window-boxes overflowing with cascading red geraniums. The walled village of Riquewihr, classified as one of the most beautiful in France, is a mere 12 kilometers (seven miles) from Colmar. Nestled in the middle of some of the most prized wine growing land in the region it is still home to families, such as Hugel and Sons, who trace their uninterrupted winemaking tradition to the early 17 ^th century.

Mulhouse has two notable museums: La Cité du Train (considered one of the largest railway museums in the world), and the Musée National de l’Automobile, The later contains the most extensive collection of Bugatti motor vehicles in the world.

Colmar Located in the middle of the Route des Vins (and the self-proclaimed capital of Alsatian wines) this laidback little town (population 65,000) has a lived-in atmosphere and inviting, walkable streets filled with architectural landmarks spanning eight centuries of intermingled French and Germanic evolution. Mainly spared the destruction of the French Revolution and the two world wars, it retained its homogenous character, including a network of canals from the peaceful River Lauch, where the tanners’ and fishmongers’ quarters were once located. The farmers also used the canals to ferry their products to the town market in small wooden barges. Now the canals are plied by electrically powered descendants of these traditional crafts to allow visitors a close look at the riverside architecture.

Housed in a former 13 ^th century convent for Dominican Sisters, the Unterlinden Museum holds a major collection of Upper-Rhenish medieval and early renaissance sculptures and paintings, including several altarpieces by native son Martin Schongauer as well as works by Lucas Cranach the Elder and Albrecht Dürer. However, the highlight of its collection is the striking Isenheim Altarpiece, considered Matthias Grünewald’s greatest masterpiece.

Colmar is also the birthplace of Frederic Bartholdi (of New York’s Statue of Liberty fame). A small museum dedicated to him outlines his life and work through paintings, drawings, metal and stone sculptures as well as personal objects and furniture. A number of his stone sculptures can also be found around town.

Date Of Last Visit September 2012

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Would You Visit Again? Yes

Overall Impression In a city that exudes at every turn the allure of a millennium of rich historical memories, Romantik Hotel Le Maréchal stood out as a gem of timeless romance. Located in the heart of Colmar, in the medieval neighborhood known as La Petite Venise (Little Venice), the property consisted of four adjoining 16th century houses built on the remains of 11th century fortifications overlooking the River Lauch. The rear of the hotel faced the river, while the three-story façade opened onto a small private courtyard. At every window a riot of red geraniums tumbled from windowsill flower boxes. Above it, the impossibly steep red tile roof that is a trademark of Alsace housed two additional stories of chiens-assis (sitting dogs, as dormers are called in French). Inside, common walls had been opened into passageways that jogged and slanted between the various parts of the property to form a welcoming maze of cozy nooks filled with local antiques. Most inviting of all was the restaurant, L’Echevin (a medieval title for a high-level magistrate) at the rear of the first floor. In addition to superb cuisine, this noted bastion of local gastronomy offered a lovely view of the tranquil river and the colorful ancient homes that lined the opposite bank.

With its unique location only a short walk away from all the medieval attractions of Colmar and its own historic charm, Le Maréchal could easily have rested on the appeal of its privileged surroundings. Yet the most memorable aspect of our visit remains the thoughtful personalized service that we enjoyed throughout our stay. When the friend who joined me on this visit to Alsace called to alert me that he had been seriously delayed, I asked the receptionist to change my dinner reservation to a table for one and to expect a late evening arrival. General Manager Alexandre Bomo overheard the conversation and immediately informed me that he was ordering from the kitchen an assiette gourmande to be prepared for the delayed guest. The assiette in question turned out to be a sumptuous cold platter of paté de foie gras (goose liver paté), smoked salmon and an assortment of the best local charcuteries and cheeses. It materialized along with a basket of the appropriate bread for each and a glass of excellent pinot noir, shortly after my friend checked in. At Le Maréchal, it was clearly unthinkable that no matter how late the hour, a guest would not receive the warmest of welcomes, and even more so that he should risk going to sleep hungry.

Romantik Hotel Le Maréchal was Alsace at its most beguiling, perfect for a romantic interlude, a friends’ get-together or special occasion celebration. Or for enthusiastic oenophiles among us, a de rigueur stop in the “capital” of Alsace’s Route des Vins (wine road). It was a warm and cozy country inn in one of the best locations in town with an outstanding view, comfortable accommodation with a modern bathroom and superb service.

Children The hotel welcomed children of all ages.

Class Of Accommodation Four star boutique hotel

Concierge Brigitte Lamberger

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi connectivity in my room. Service was reliable, speed was moderate.

General Manager Roland Bomo

Handicapped Access No. Because of its historic monument status, Le Maréchal is precluded to make the necessary architectural alteration to its 500-year-old buildings to ensure a fully handicapped-friendly environment.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location In the heart of the historic center of Colmar, a one-mile taxi ride from the train station and a 10-minute walk from the farthest of the many artistic and architectural treasures of the city.

On-Site Manager Alexandre Bomo

Owned / managed The Bomo family

Pets Allowed Yes, there was a nominal charge for post-visit room cleaning.

Size The four story property had 30 guest rooms including two suites and a restaurant that could sit up to 80 guests and included a seasonal terrace. It employed a staff of 35, including 20 restaurant personnel.

Year Opened-Renovated The property opened in 1972 as a casual riverside restaurant that quickly evolved into a country inn. It was purchased in 2000 from the original owner Gilbert Bomo by his brother Roland. It has since been fully renovated and is now the object of meticulous on-going upkeep that respects its official historic monument classification.

Lobby And Common Areas All common areas were located on the lower level of the property and decorated in an eclectic blend of contemporary and rustic Alsatian furniture, artwork and crafts. The floors were deep burgundy wall-to-wall carpeting with tan pin dots, covered with plush oriental rugs. The walls and ceiling were cream plaster with heavy black woodwork and ceiling beams. In the entrance foyer, a long reception desk with a base of matching black crisscross beams against a white plaster background held a polished oak countertop. Behind the desk an antique key rack held rows of traditional heavy brass guestroom keys. It was surrounded by an abundance of framed awards garnered over time by the hotel for the excellence of its hospitality and restaurant. On the opposite side of the foyer, a large nook with a mirrored back wall formed a cozy lounge. A tall, intricately carved armoire occupied the left side wall, while a grandfather clock was centered on the opposite wall. The center of the lounge held two round coffee tables clad in tan cotton with pumpkin colored overlay, each surrounded by four barrel armchairs covered in cinnabar velvet. Brass wall sconces provided the lighting.

Bathroom A small foyer separated the 12 square meter (130 square foot) bathroom and adjoining walk-in closet from the bedroom. The bathroom had a polished cherry hardwood floor and a large dormer window overlooking the river below. Under its rustic beamed ceiling it featured the latest contemporary fixtures, including a long rectangular double sink topped by a wall mirror with a telescopic magnifying mirror on one side and a hair dryer on the other and a deep whirlpool bathtub with hand-held shower. The commode was separated from the remainder of the room by a half-wall. There were hand and face towel on racks on both sides of the sink and oversized bath towels on a tiled ledge by the bathtub. A flat panel television hung from one of the ceiling beams facing the bathtub.

Room My 25 square meter (270 square foot) room, Number 70, was a cozy L-shaped nest tucked under the eaves at the very top of the property. Its two dormer windows draped in heavy tan and burgundy striped satin opened onto an expansive view of the roofs of the old town. Floor treatment was similar to that in the common areas (deep burgundy wall-to-wall carpeting covered with plush oriental rugs). The walls and ceiling were rough white plaster that set off the heavy ceiling beams and the half-timbered exterior walls. The king size bed with its tall, intricately carved oak headboard was recessed in its own nook. On both sides, corner nightstands held reading lamps with candlestick bases topped by silk shades. The bed was covered with a quilted spread in a contemporary pattern of bold burgundy swirls on cream background. The remainder of the room furnishings was Louis XV style, which gave an eclectic feel to the rustic environment. It included two crimson velvet gateleg chairs with open wooden arms. They sat by a round writing table draped in a floor length cloth matching the bedcover with burgundy overlay. A four-drawer bureau served as base for a widescreen television. Wall hangings included two contemporary oil paintings with floral themes and a small Louis XV mirror in a gilded frame with matching shelf.

Food And Restaurants The complimentary breakfast was a generous buffet served in the dining room of L’Echevin. Offerings included eggs, scrambled to creamy perfection or boiled, an assortment of charcuteries and cheeses of the region, smoked salmon, freshly baked croissants and brioches, local Kugelhopf (a light yeasted bundt cake with raisins) and whole grain breads. Cold cereals and yogurt were also available.

At lunch and dinnertime, L’Echevin became a superb restaurant that has repeatedly earned multiple Gault et Millau and Michelin awards.

Amenities In room amenities included a small box of chocolates by renowned French chocolatier Michel Cluizel, a bottle of Evian water and an electronic safe. In the bathroom, there were terrycloth bathrobes and slippers. Individual size house brand toiletries included shampoo, shower gel, body lotion and face soap. There were shower caps, cotton swabs, cotton pads, shoe polish sponges, a shoehorn, sewing kit, box of tissues, bathroom scale, hair dryer and lighted magnifying mirror. The walk-in closet had ample clothes-hanging space and an extra long luggage rack.

Facilities There was a restaurant, L’Echevin, and a seasonal riverside terrace.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review September 2012

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service Excellent. Every member of the staff with whom I came in contact during my stay was genuinely friendly and thoughtfully proactive. The room was serviced daily.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes