Overall Impression It had been 12 years since we had dined at Lasserre, named for René Lasserre, who created the restaurant almost 80 years prior, and we wondered how it might have changed. From the valet at the entrance to the all male formally attired dining room staff inside the service was as attentive as I remembered. From the ground floor we climbed a short staircase one floor. Our escort pulled thick curtains aside to reveal an elegant dining room with elaborate and tasteful décor. Dim fall light filtered through large street-facing windows. Beyond them we had a bird’s eye view of the Grand Palais, one of the city’s well known historic monuments.

We were there on a fall day in the midst of weeks of Yellow Vest demonstrations often centered on the upscale western neighborhoods of the city, including the famed Golden Triangle where the restaurant is located. Perhaps because of that ours was one of only a handful of tables that day.

Our intimate table occupied prime real estate in a corner of what appeared to be the best section of the salon, two steps down from the arrival level. From our well cushioned and comfortable seats we had an unobstructed view across the dining room and through the windows to the facade of the world famous building across the street. Above us a mirrored ceiling drew our attention, partly because it showcased the room from an unexpected angle and partly because despite the outdoor chill we anticipated the roof to open during the meal.

Despite occasional noise from an adjacent construction site I liked that, except for the piano player’s soft sounds, it was quiet in the space we shared with few other diners. Guests were French speaking and middle-aged. Lunch was artfully presented and “modern” in style, eliciting mostly sighs of pleasure and satisfaction. We liked the well prepared dishes, each one cooked in a way that brought out the natural flavors to their best advantage. In the future, should I be in need of an elegant gourmet venue to celebrate a special occasion in that neighborhood Lasserre will be on my short list for its excellent service, beautiful interior with an inspired view and aspirational Tasting Menu.

About the Executive Chef Nicolas Le Tirrand trained in Pavillon Ledoyen, Plaza Athénée, Four Seasons George V, and 39V. At Lasserre he sought to be rigorous, straightforward and contemporary.

According to his biography, he is a patient, workaholic and bon vivant cook, who masters the art of assembling, seasoning and cooking at the perfect temperature; and a chef, thanks to his leadership abilities, who wishes to be particularly aware of product sourcing, waste management and globally on ecology.

Executive Chef Nicolas Le Tirrand

Handicapped Access Yes. The restaurant was on the first floor. There was an elevator.

Head Sommelier Stéphane Jan

Restaurant manager Gerald Louis Canfailla

Languages Spoken In addition to French some staff spoke English and were able to welcome guests in English.

Location On the well known Franklin Roosevelt Avenue in the ritzy eighth arrondissement.

Opened-Renovated The restaurant opened in 1942. In 2017, it underwent a “full renovation.”

Owned A restaurant spokesperson declined to identify the restaurant owner for undisclosed reasons.

Pastry Chef Jean Lachenal

Size The restaurant was 170 square meters large and could accommodate up to 80 guests. We estimated a staff compliment of 30.

Decor The décor was designed to emphasize a sense of the theatrical. A tiny elevator, upholstered with black fabric embroidered with a multitude of doves, the house symbol, transported guests between two levels. There was a 35 square meter 66-year old sunroof that once during our meal opened onto the Parisian sky. There were white orchid plants like sentinels standing along the dining room.

Our table, and the dining room in general, faced the Grand Palais entrance. Three vast arched bay windows enhanced the view. The interior design was inspired by a winter garden to be warm and bright. The artistic inspiration of the sunbathed room was a nod to the architectural finesse of the Grand Palais, its original frescoes and monumental equestrian statues. Eight mirrors were positioned to allow the eyes to wander around the room with discretion as a nod to the founder, who was said to enjoy looking without being seen.

The sunroof was covered by a golden mirror to reflect the whiteness of the moldings and wood panels. The walls were covered by elaborate anise-green fabrics with contemporary patterns, representing birds, slender branches, flowers, butterflies, and grapes vines. The grey carpet had long and thin bronze embroidered creepers on it. There were also some antiques on display such as an earthenware piece from Saxony with a colorful parrot on top. It formed part of a collection of bird-shaped silver artifacts accumulated over the years.

Meal We had a delicious six course Tasting Menu without wine. The appetizers were: A la nage Tourteau de casier en fine gelee de navet daikon, ecume de liveche et pince tiede (a favorite); and Dans l’esprit Lasserre Gratin de macaroni a l’artichaut et a la truffe noire (macaroni gratin with artichoke and black truffles).

The main courses were: Sur sarments de cassis Homard bleu de Loctudy aux baies, crème de chou rouge a l’ail noir, jus de presse (blue lobster from Loctudy and a favorite); Fleuree de sel et d’epigrammes salle d’agneau de lait et girolles etuvees, fines arlettes de pommes de terres iodees (lamb with seaweed and potato crisps, chanterelle mushrooms and watercress); A l’unilaterale chateaubriand et quelques bettraves a la vinaigrette de cacao, vrai jus (chateaubriand with a lettuce heart served warm with olive oil to cleanse the palate with beets and cacao vinegar). The chocolate vinegar and beet were a worthy contrast to the meat.

The desserts were: Foisonne a la minute Chocolat du Perou “60% de cacao” sous de fines feuilles a la fleur de sel (60 percent dark chocolate from Peru with fleur de sel leaves); and Confite du four Banane dans sa peau sur fraicheur de rhum, ecume de cafe et crème glacee epicee aux eclats de noisette (banana prepared with rum, coffee and iced cream served with hazelnuts).

Special Menus Six course Tasting Menu for 195 euros.

Cellars Wine and Alcoholic Beverage Selection The restaurant had 50 varieties of alcohol, including rare products such as a 1914 cognac, 1890 Cognac AE d’or, and 1918 Armagnac Sempe. It also had 1,300 wine labels from all the French regions, including Domaine Armand Rousseau, Romanée Conti (Burgundy), Petrus, Lafitte, O brion, Chateau Margaux (Bordeaux), Didier Dagneau (Loire), Chateau Rayas, Domaine Henri Bonneau, and Domaine Gangloff (Rhone).

Other Amenities included WiFi, valet service, and live piano music. The entire meal was prepared using fresh (not frozen) ingredients, 50 percent of the ingredients were organic (all the vegetables were organic). Jackets were required for men.

Date of Review December 2018

Number of Visits One

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Staff were serious, attentive, efficient and polite. I was escorted down the elevator and back from the ground floor lady’s room. Our napkins were replaced with fresh dessert napkins when we concluded the savory portion of the meal.

Would You Dine Eat There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression Our most recent visit to Maison Blanche Paris was on a chilly fall day during the weeks of Yellow Vest demonstrations that rocked the western neighborhoods of the city, including the Golden Triangle where the restaurant is located. Perhaps because of that it was far from full that day. We had a pleasant well prepared lunch.

Midday sunlight filtered through the huge glass walls inside, adding sparkle to the dining room. My lunch partner faced the river while I faced a residential building across the street. We liked peering across the street at the residential building, intrigued by the labor intensive efforts of workmen lifting furnishings with a crane, and to the right at the Seine River. When we stepped outside briefly we were able to see, as we squinted against the bright sun, the Eiffel Tower. Around us a business crowd kept the volume moderate even at the mealtime peak. Staff members, many of them addressing us in English, were friendly and efficient. From the duck foie gras with salt grains atop to the delicious lemon dessert lunch was balanced, artfully presented and satisfying.

Our meal was worth repeating thanks to warm and attentive service, a pretty setting, including a side view of the Seine River from our table, and not least, a tasty and well served meal. Maison Blanche will be on our neighborhood shortlist for an informal yet upscale ambiance.

About the Restaurant Manager After graduating from the Lausanne School in Hotel Management, he worked as development manager, Restaurant and Hotel Department, at the Chamber of Commerce and Industry. Later he joined the team at Raymond Thuillier’s L’Auberge de Provence in London before spending five years at the Hôtel Château Chartrons in Bordeaux.

He then followed Alain Ducasse’s footsteps as operations manager at the Hôtel du Parc, where he remained for five years. He participated in the establishment of the famous chef’s 59 Raymond Poincaré restaurant in Paris, France, the opening of Spoon restaurants in London and Mauritius, as well as the organization of gala events in Hong Kong and Tokyo.

Chef de Cuisine Fabrice Giraud, a native of La Ciotat, began his career at Chantecler Negresco in Nice, France, Great Cascade in Paris, France and Hotel de Paris in Monaco. In 1999, he was appointed chef de cuisine for the first time at the restaurant Bread and Wine in Brussels, Belgium, which became a Michelin-starred restaurant. In 2001, he became head chef at the Grand Barrail in Saint-Emilion, France before taking the lead in the kitchens of the Perigord and the Ermenonville.

In 2009, Giraud worked at Pudong Shangri-La in Shanghai and at the Shangri-La Hotel Bosphorus Istanbul, Turkey. He also worked at Tiara Yaktsa and at the opening of Tiara Miramar Beach Hotel & Spa in Cannes, France. In March 2015, Giraud joined the Maison Blanche restaurant as chef.

Handicapped Access Yes, according to a spokesperson wheelchair bound guests were welcome. There was an elevator.

Head Sommelier David Desplanches and Kevin Quinsenac

Languages Spoken In addition to French staff were able to welcome guests in English. Nearly all the staff that looked after us spoke English.

Location In the well-known Golden Triangle.

Opened-Renovated The restaurant opened in 1990. The most recent update was in 2011 when the Terrace Montaigne was added.

Owned Benjamin Demarigny and others a spokesperson declined to identify for undisclosed reasons

Pastry Chef James Choplin

Restaurant Manager Bruno Franck

Size The restaurant had 50 employees and 410 square meters of indoor space as well as two terraces with additional capacity in warm weather. It could accommodate up to 250 dinner guests.

Type of Restaurant Fine dining

Decor The restaurant, at the top of the historic Théâtre des Champs-Élysées building, was decorated by Imaad Rahmouni in a contemporary style, emphasizing its best asset, a partial view of the Seine, the Dome of Les Invalides and the Eiffel Tower. A view of the Eiffel Tower was possible from a few tables and angles only. The tables were covered with white tablecloths and dinnerware. The only decorative items were metal pieces with the colors of the French flag. At our table there was a vase with an orchid in a pebble medium. There was a pepper grinder and Himalayan salt.

Cellars Wine and Alcoholic Beverage Selection There were 380 wine references.

Special Menus The restaurant offered a two course Lunch Menu for 49 euros and a three course Lunch Menu for 59 euros. For dinner there were three set menu options: Menu Gourmet for 72 euros, five course Menu Degustation (Tasting Menu) for 95 euros, and six course Menu Degustation for 125 euros.

For groups of more than 11 people a three course menu cost 135 euros; a four course menu cost 157 euros and a Tasting Menu was 183 euros.

Meal We had a menu selected for us by the chef, who served each of us a different dish. We began with cheese puff amouse buche and bubbly. We had three choices of bread: baguette, cereal and country.

Our appetizers: Duck foie gras, young leafs, toasted hazelnuts and Cumberland sauce (Foie gras de canard en lobe, salade de jeunes pousses, noisettes toastees et sauce Cumberland) and Perfect organic egg, salad fennel shaving’s, sun dried tomatoes, garden peas sprouts (Oeuf bio parfait a l’avocat, mimolette ancienne et Ghoa Cress).

Mains: Pan-fried meagre, jus with brown butter and preserved lemon (Maigre en peau croustillante, jus de volaille au beurre noisette et citron confit); Red Gunard seared, turnip cabbage fine mousse with apple and orange and garlic broth (Rouget grondin saisi, mousseline de chou-rave pomme orange et bouillon a l’ail); Free-range fowl leg, millefeuille layering of potatoes with comet cheese, spinach and citrus fruit (Cuisse de pintade fermiere, millefeuille de pommes de terre au comte, epinards et agrumes); Ox cheek braised in red wine, cep mushrooms, creamy polenta and shallots preserve (Joue de boeuf braisee au vin rouge, polenta cremeuse aux cepes et confit d’echalots). We especially liked the tiny mushrooms and tiny Brussels sprouts of the dish, which packed a flavor punch.

Cheese course: Before dessert we had a four cheese course with goat cheese, Saint Nectaire, Camembert, and Comte cheeses and a small salad garnished with dried figs.

Desserts: Lemon meringue and olive oil shortbread (Citron meringue et sable a l’huile d’olive) and “Maison Blanche” cake with dark chocolate (Fondant “Maison Blanche” au chocolat noir). The lemon dessert was a favorite.

A sommelier selected the following to accompany our meal: Champagne Lallier R014, 2015 Vieux Solitaire Grande Reserve AOP Maury Sec; and 2012 Zede de Labegorce Margaux.

Other There was WiFi, valet and cloakroom service. The restaurant received the Distinction L’Assiette Michelin in the 2016 Michelin Guide.

Date of Review November 2018

Number of Visits One

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service From arrival to departure the service was warm and attentive. One staff member was exceedingly shy. Tiago Martins, Alain-Philippe Present and Romain Guilherme were co-managers.

Would You Dine Eat There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression Château Vaux-le-Vicomte, a private estate open to visitors near Paris, France, was extraordinary for its historic character and timeless beauty even when compared with grand former royal residences. Named for the confluence of two valleys in the region it made a distinct splash in history. Despite the years elapsed since its heyday it retained harmony, and a luxurious dignified residential air accomplished via a painstaking labor of love and abundant renovations over many decades.

The weather was less than ideal during our spring visit. Rainy, chilly and cloudy conditions predominated that day. The overcast dark gray skies and wet grounds lent a dull pallor to the estate that made it seem somewhat sad and joyless. Also, in lieu of the guided tour we had planned our indoor exploration was truncated and the foul weather forced us to rush through our self-guided golf cart visit of the grounds.

On the plus side, the estate which welcomed some 300,000 visitors a year was especially quiet, and we had an opportunity to meet and chat briefly with Alexandre de Vogüé, one of owners and an affable host. Following his enthusiastic discussion about Vaux-le-Vicomte I realized that while for visitors the property was a French chateau of historic significance (it cost the family 1.3 million euros a year to maintain and restore the chateau and gardens) for him and his family it was their ancestral home and legacy. As of this writing, Patrice and Cristina de Vogüé live in the château’s outbuildings. From our brief time with Alexandre de Vogüé I got the impression that running the property as a thriving enterprise that welcomed tourists was a duty and a privilege. As we drove away, I felt a bit nostalgic and hopeful that I might return to see more of the chateau as well as its famous candle lit event on another occasion. Should I find myself in the vicinity of Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte in the future I hope to return at the first opportunity.

Audio Tours Audioguides were available in nine languages.

Average Duration of Visit The property staff recommended 90 minutes for an average visit for adults, including time in the château and garden. I would have lingered longer had our schedule allowed it.

Children The property welcomed children of all ages.

Established It was it founded in 1661 as a private property. In 1968, it opened as a tourist attraction.

Handicapped Access There was a special entrance for handicapped visitors and reduced admission price. Although staff were able to carry visitors with mobility problems to the ground floor (separated from the arrival floor by several steps) due to the number of stairs it was not possible for them to tour the first floor. A visit of the garden was accessible for handicapped visitors who rented electric cars.

Location In the town of Maincy and 6 kilometers from Melun in the Seine-et-Marne Department (www.turisme77.co.uk and www.paris-whatelse.com) near Paris, France

Number of Employees 70

Open The attraction was open for visitors most of the year, with the exception of part of November and January to the end of March.

Owned-Managed The Vogüé Family

Size The 72 meter long by 33 meter wide château, part of a 500 hectare property, had three floors and a viewing dome. About 300,000 visitors explored the property, which had 100 rooms, each year.

Transportation From Paris we took a train to a nearby town and from there we made our way by car to Maincy.

Description Around 65 percent of the château, including the western outbuildings housing the restaurant, gift shop and Carriage Museum we visited, was open to visitors without guides. From the original furnishings only two marble tables, in the Grande Chambre Carrée, remained. Over the years, most of the furniture was taken for Versailles or other châteaux. Present day furniture consisted mainly of period pieces bought by the current owners of the château, and some reproductions. Although we ran out of time it was possible, for a supplementary fee of 3 euros, to climb to the dome through a series of stairs to admire the three-hundred-sixty degree view from the top of the roof.

Four main characteristics made the property special. Some experts considered the château the seminal expression of the Jardin à la Française or French formal garden, the French aesthetic of formal gardens that swept Europe in the 17th century. Beginning in 1641, Nicolas Fouquet hired renowned landscape gardener André Le Nôtre to work on his estate. He used the latest technical, scientific and artistic knowledge of his era.

Second, many believe the château was the inspiration for the château Louis XIV had built in Versailles. Such assumptions are supported because king Louis XIV employed the same artists that created the château de Vaux-le-Vicomte for his new residence at Versailles and the style of both was said to be very similar.

Exceptionally, the Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte was created from scratch by three renown artists of the time, Le Nôtre, Charles Le Brun, and Louis Le Vau, who collaborated in its construction. Finally, the estate has been the property of four successive families, having never belonged to the government.

In addition, the paintings and mural decorations from Le Brun are a representation of the Early Versailles Style, one of few remaining in France from the 17th century. The different works of art, acquired by the estate, were also of an exceptional value, according to a spokesperson.

The most notable room in the property, a spokesperson explained, might be the king’s bedroom with exceptionally detailed golden decorations and lavish trompe-l’oeil. Although the room was made to host the king he never spent the night there.

Restaurant We had lunch onsite at Le Relais de l’Ecureuil, the family oriented self-service restaurant with capacity for up to 250. On Saturday nights dinner was available at restaurant Les Charmilles, which could accommodate 150. Some of the ingredients were fresh and local and the meals were prepared by a chef and a pastry chef.

Souvenir Shop According to a property spokesperson, the property had “one of the most beautiful château gift shop(s) in France.” Among the souvenirs for sale were books, including some written by members of the Vogüé family, gifts for children such as costumes and games, jewelry, leather work, tapestries, home goods, and gourmet products like estate honey. Most of the products were Vaux-le-Vicomte branded or made for Vaux-le-Vicomte, such as Petrusse scarfs.

Tours Every Saturday and Sunday from March to November the property offered tours. There were also guided tours and tours in costumes for children during October and April holidays. Private or group visits were available in some foreign languages.

Month of Visit May 2016

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Would You Visit This Attraction Again Yes

Overall Impression We liked Fontainebleau Castle as much for what it was as what it was not. What I mean by that is that it was impressive because as the residence of French monarchs for 1,000 years it had a residual a sense of home, as much as an uninhabited 1,536 room 130 acre estate can retain a sense of home. It was also clearly a tourist attraction, drawing large crowds on a regular basis minus the overwhelming near chaotic conditions of other more popular former French royal residences and attractions.

That was because it had a fraction of the visitors as some of the other well known castles, museums and attractions in or near Paris. For example, where Fontainebleau had about 500,000 visitors a year and a staff of 130 Versailles, a famous former royal residence near Paris, had 7.5 million visitors and ten times the staff. We had nearly equal rainy conditions during our visit to both castles, yet our experience in Fontainebleau was by far more sedate and pleasant than the one to Versailles. On the day of our visit, while there was a large group of rather boisterous children it was otherwise significantly less crowded and easier to visit than Versailles had been only a few days earlier.

Fontainebleau had the unmistakable touch of multiple successive owners who each had added to or torn down from the structure according to their whims, budget and needs while they were residents there, molding the castle to their personality and circumstances. During its history all the French sovereigns lived at the castle beginning in the XII century.

Fontainebleau is the only royal and imperial castle to have been continuously inhabited for seven centuries. Our visit provided us a unique view of French history, French art history and architecture. It was especially illuminating in the company of our well informed and enthusiastic English speaking guide as part of a private morning tour and well worth a return visit.

Average Duration of Visit A spokesperson for the attraction recommended a two to three hour visit. Ours lasted about that long and was just right. Had we remained in town longer we would have easily returned to explore the castle further.

Children Yes, of all ages.

Description We toured the castle in the company of Véronique Villalba, a licensed guide with patience and enthusiasm who brought the attraction to life during our brief time together and made us keen to return. About 40 percent of the structure was open to the public and 30 percent of that was open to unescorted (without a guide) visitors. From among the salient features we saw the Royal apartments, Renaissance Rooms, one of Marie Antoinette’s Boudoirs, Francis I Gallery, Galerie de Diane, Chapel of the Trinity, Chapelle basse Saint-Saturnin (only the upper level). We saw many of the masterpieces: The Duke of Orléans Commemorative Wedding Cabinet, Charlemagne in the Guise of Henry IV (in the Chapelle de la Trinité), The Royal Elephant (in the Galerie François Ier), Alexander Taming Bucephalus (in the Galerie François Ier), Odyssey Cabinet (in the Ancienne Chambre de la Reine), Beneman Commode (in la Nouvelle Chambre de la Reine), Marie Antoinette’s Bed, Napoleon’s Throne. Outside we walked through or caught a glimpse of its gardens and courtyards (sometimes from a distance): Cour Ovale, Cour de la Fontaine Cour d’Honneur, Cour des Offices, Grand Parterre (created by André Le Nôtre and Louis Le Vau and said to be Louis XIV’s greatest architectural achievement at Fontainebleau), Jardin Anglais, Jardin de Diane, Grotte des Pins, Pavillion de l’Étang, and Park.

Established In 1927, the castle opened as an attraction to the public.

Handicapped Access Wheelchairs were available.

Location In the heart of the town of the same name in the Seine-et-Marne Department (www.turisme77.co.uk and www.paris-whatelse.com) near Paris, France

Owned-Managed Ministere de la Culture et de la Communication (government of France)

Size The 46,500 square meter museum had 1,536 rooms, 130 acres of gardens and 130 employees.

Transportation From Paris we took a train to a nearby town and from there we made our way by car to Fontainebleau.

Restaurant The eatery served coffee and lunch, including salads.

Souvenir Shop A small shop sold books and souvenirs.

Tours In the summer there were tours in English daily.

Month of Visit May 2016

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Would You Visit This Attraction Again Yes

Overall Impression The first thing we liked about La Demeure du Parc, a boutique hotel in the heart of the village of Fontainebleau, France, was its nearness to Fontainebleau, the famed former royal castle. The boutique hotel was within convenient walking distance to the palace as well as the village’s bustling central district, which housed restaurants and shops.

We also liked the modern sunlit lobby with a glass roof and equally modern rooms with natural light, artistic touch, amenities, friendly staff and gourmet restaurant. Should we return to the area La Demeure du Parc would be at the top of our list.

Children Yes

Class of Accommodation Four Star Hotel

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi in the rooms and common areas.

General Manager Thierry Durand

Handicapped Access No

Length of Stay One night

Location In the historical center of Fontainebleau, in the Seine-et-Marne Department (www.turisme77.co.uk and www.paris-whatelse.com) of France

Managed SAS Hotel du Parc

Owned Nicole Ivassenko

Pets Allowed No

Size The 27-room 2000 square meter property was two stories tall and employed 24 staff.

Year Opened-Renovated The hotel first opened in a renovated historic building October 2015

Lobby and Common Areas The decorative style of the lobby and common areas was meant to be Contemporary and Elegant.

Bathroom My bathroom was spotless. It had a bathtub and a separate shower with a glass door. The toilet was in its own enclosure separated by a glass partition from the shower.

Room We each stayed in 41 square meter Deluxe Double rooms on opposite ends of the first floor, 103 and 107. They had modern décor and luxury amenities. Mine, perhaps because it had a long entry hall felt less spacious than it was. My travel partner’s had a furnished rooftop terrace facing the entrance courtyard. The only downside was that the restaurant entrance was immediately below his roof and the pungent kitchen odors rose to his terrace spooling the mood. Also, staff smoked during their breaks in that same space so that residual food and tobacco odors mingled in an unpleasant aroma.

Food and Restaurants La Table du Parc (6 rue d’Avon, 77300 Fontainebleau, France, +33 1 60 70 20 00, latableduparc.fr) was on the ground floor of the hotel, across from the lobby bar. It could accommodate up to 50 guests and served local gourmet cuisine. Like the hotel, it had opened its doors to the public for the first time October 2015. The interior had a contemporary design featuring wood floors, exposed wood beam on the ceiling, a large glass wall with a view to the hotel’s front courtyard and original hand painted chalk artwork by Camille Rouseau on the rear wall (a favorite). The tables were tablecloth covered and the dinner service was pretty.

Carmen Thelen, a German born French chef, and her colleague, Sophie de Bernardi, pastry chef, led a team of 12. The executive chef, Frédéric Vardon, was cofounder and chef of the Le 39V restaurant in Paris, as well as the quartet of Zinc bistros (Gennevilliers, Paris Opéra, Paris International Golf Club, Courchevel 1850). Prior to Chef Thelen’s arrival at La Table du Parc, she worked by his side at Le 39V in Paris, and Zinc des Neiges Courchevel 1850. The menu was designed to vary with the seasons, to take advantage of the freshest produce.

During our activity filled stay we had a tasting menu dinner and breakfast. Both were outstanding. Breakfast was a satisfying combination of buffet and a la carte options with deli meats, eggs, breads and pastries, fresh fruit, fresh juice, coffee, tea and hot chocolate.

The dinner dishes were refined, well prepared and presented artfully while the service was attentive and warm. For dinner we began with kalamata olive bites and lovely chilled cocktails. There were two types of bread while we waited for our meal. A palate teaser with individual servings of beet root, fish cream and duck terrine followed. There was Warm white asparagus with sabayon and citrus sauce and Marinated beef with vegetables. Next, my dinner partner had a smoky lamb dish and I had Saint Pierre fish (slightly overcooked, not a favorite). For dessert we had Grand Marnier Souffle with blood orange shavings and blood orange sauce, a memorable dish and a favorite. For post dessert there were almond clusters, diamond lemon bites and chocolate nibbles.

Amenities There was heating and air conditioning, complimentary WiFi, in room electronic safe, Courtesy Tray stocked with complimentary Nespresso and Kusmi Tea, mini bar, bathrobes and slippers, and hospitality products from Maison Fragonard. Bespoke services such as laundry, shoe repair, and alterations as well as baby cots and extra beds were available on request.

Facilities There was a gourmet restaurant and a bar on the ground floor.

Conference Facilities There was a 100 square meter meeting room with capacity for up to 80 people.

Other The hotel received the 2016 Biosphère Ecoutourisme, a label from United Nations, through the Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Seine et Marne.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Review May 2016

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Sometimes when the world seems out of balance a little indulgence can make things better, a least for a short while. Such was the case at the Restaurant le Meurice Alain Ducasse, where we had a satisfying gourmet lunch this spring. Outside the restaurant the touristy rue de Rivoli was noisy and busy with pedestrian and automobile traffic. Inside the low hum of fellow diners was the only sound and timid sunlight filtered through the salon’s large windows. We liked the dining room’s ornate décor, inspired by Salon de la Paix at the Château de Versailles, as well as the daytime view from the entrance across the rue de Rivoli to the Tuileries Garden. From our window side table we had a view of the pretty dining room.

As the gourmet dining scene has shifted in Paris and worldwide it has become ever more challenging to anticipate the quality of a fine dining meal. We appreciated the efforts of Jocelyn Herland, executive chef, and his staff to focus his culinary finesse on basic fresh ingredients. Frédéric Rouen, restaurant manager, and his staff ensured we had a pleasant experience. Our multi-course meal was well prepared, artfully presented and served with care and attention to detail. The memorable dining room, elegant setting and amenities and attentive and friendly service enhanced our experience. The next time we visit Paris lunch at Restaurant le Meurice Alain Ducasse will be on our wish list.

About the Pastry Chef Cédric Grolet was born and raised in Firminy, close to Saint-Étienne, France. After earning his degree in Pastry, Chocolates and Ice creams from Puy-en-Velay, he was awarded a vocational diploma at the well-known École Nationale Supérieure de la Pâtisserie at Yssingeaux. At Fauchon, he accompanied Christophe Adam and Benoit Couvrand to Beijing to train their new teams. On his return to Paris, he took on the coveted position of Research and Development at Fauchon, where he remained for five years. He joined Le Meurice as a sous-chef in 2011, before rising rapidly to his current position.

Chef de Cuisine A restaurant representative declined to identify one.

Executive Chef Jocelyn Herland under the supervision of Alain Ducasse who arrived at Le Meurice in September 2013.

Handicapped Access No

Head Sommelier Damien Azemar.

Location On the ground floor of the Hotel Le Meurice in the heart of Paris, France

Opened-Renovated The most recent renovation was May 2016.

Owned and Managed Dorchester Collection which was owned by the Brunei Investment Agency

Pastry Chef Cédric Grolet

Restaurant Manager Frédéric Rouen – As soon as he had completed his training, he decided to devote his career to Palace Hotels. After an internship at the Royal Club at Évian, he became an apprentice chef and then chef de rang at the Connaught Hotel, a Five Star venue in London at the time. He returned to France to work with Joël Robuchon at avenue Raymond Poincaré as an apprentice waiter, then as demichef de rang and eventually as chef de rang. When Alain Ducasse took over the management of the establishment in the summer of 1996 he invited him to join his team. In time Rouen became maître d’hôtel at restaurant Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée. In December 2007, he was named restaurant manager at Jules Verne. From there he moved to the Ritz, before becoming restaurant manager at le Meurice in 2012.

Size The 150 square meter restaurant could accommodate 50 guest with a staff compliment of 30 (estimated).

Type of Restaurant Fine dining striving to return back to basics “…to respect the rhythm of the seasons, when the product is at its best.”

About the Executive Chef Born in Auvergne, France, Jocelyn Herland discovered the pleasure of eating at his grandparents side. In 1990, he earned his vocational training certificate (CAP) in cooking. Later he earned a pastry certificate (CAP), followed by a professional baccalauréat. He worked at the Clos de Longchamp, first in the dining room with Francis Coulon, then in the kitchens with Jean-Marie Meulien. After fulfilling his military service obligations, he worked at La Table du Marché with Christophe Leroy. In 1997, he became chef de partie at Le 59, Alain Ducasse’s restaurant on avenue Poincaré in Paris. In 2000, he moved to the Restaurant Opéra at the Hotel Intercontinental in Paris, followed by the Royal Monceau in the same city. In December 2003, he joined Christophe Moret at the Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée restaurant first as sous-chef, then chef adjoint. Later Ducasse offered him the head chef position of Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester for its opening in London November 2007. The restaurant received three Michelin stars in 2010. In January 2016, he became executive chef in the kitchens of the Hôtel Le Meurice.

Decor-Ambiance Philippe Starck worked on the décor of the dining room in 2007 and in again in May 2016, striving for “romantic elegance and a refined timeless style.” The original interior designers of the dining room were inspired by the Salon de la Paix at the Château de Versailles, featuring antique mirrors, crystal chandeliers, bronzes, marble walls, tile floors, and wall and ceiling frescoes. The 2016 updates included a fresh vegetable and fruit display in the center; comfortable Knoll Armchairs; a re-edition of the Tulip d’Eero Saarinen model in white leather; an original Murano glass sculpture by Aristide Najean; bronze and stainless steel screens on the inside of which there was a transparent geometric mosaic composed of messages, photos and sketches as well as pink copper items; and a faux fire in the fireplace. At the table there were crisp linen napkins to match the tablecloth, silverware, and crystal ware, including refined service items such as a silver bottled water holder. There was a convenient small footstool for personal items.

Meal We had a six course menu. It began with a glass of 2010 Louis Roederer rose champagne and Maquereau Racines au gros sel with Asian caviar served in a bowl with decorative black rocks at the bottom. It had a stout fish flavor (not a favorite). We liked the steamed vegetable starter. It was sourced in Normandy and Versailles and consisted of onions, beets, carrots, artichoke, potatoes, and turnips served with an olive dip. We were able to choose from country, rye and baguette breads. The baguette was slightly warm when it arrived at our table. There was salted and unsalted Normandy butter.

My lunch partner had Pate chaud de pintade au chou followed by Homard, topinambours, prepared with pig ears and powdered hibiscus. Then he had Volaille, morilles a chicken, mushroom and wild garlic dish followed by a cheese course.

For me, there were Langoutines roties. Then there was Bar, agrumes, fenouil, a fish dish with citrus and fragrant fennel. Agneau, artichauts, citron was next. The lamb dish was served with artichoke and a tasty lamb ball (a favorite). It was followed by a cheese course.

There were some 20 cheese on the cheese cart. I had Comté, Epoisse and Munster. My companion had a similar selection and Roquefort. Our cheeses were served with a small side salad with a creamy dressing as well as black olive brioche bread (a favorite), figs, nuts and prunes. A staff member replaced our lunch napkins with smaller dessert napkins at the end of the cheese course.

The menu concluded with two excellent desserts, Chocolat de notre Manufacture with chocolate from the Alain Ducasse chocolate Paris shop (a favorite) for me, and Vacherin aux agrumes for him. My chocolate dessert was served with a side dish souffle and his was served with an exceptional almond cookie.

After dessert there were Fruits et sorbets and Mignardises. We sampled the strawberry sorbet with fresh blueberries and the mango with fresh mango slices. My meal was accompanied by a 2014 Alsance grand cru Muenchberg Domaine Ostertag and a 2011 Nuits-Saint-Georges Domaine G. Julien, supple and smokey with hazelnut and dark cherry undertones. The wine specialist paired a 2012 Hermitage Domaine du Colombier and 2011 Suisse Humagne Domaine C. Abbet with his meal. The wine expert’s recommendations and insights were a good complement to the meal.

Special Menus The restaurant offered three Lunch Menu options: two courses for 85 euros, three courses for 110 euros, and four courses for 130 euros. There was also a six course Collection Menu for 380 euros. Prices did not include beverages.

Other At the time of our visit the restaurant had two stars in the Michelin Guide.

Date of Review May 2016

Number of Visits One

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Staff were staff attentive and pleasant. The service was outstanding. We never had empty glasses or suffer any neglect during the meal service.

Would You Dine Eat There Again-Recommend It? Yes

Overall Impression A personal touch was in evidence from the moment we arrived at reception at the Five Star Parkhotel Adler in the Black Forest Highlands of Germany. I had not realized how far back its history went until Katja Newman, a vivacious tall woman and the current manager and owner, shared with us that the hotel had been in the same family for 16 generations. Her young son was next in line to inherit the property, she explained as we sat in the hotel lounge listening to live music. From a historic perspective the hotel’s main claim to fame was that Marie Antoinette, the future queen of France, stopped or spent the night there while en route from Austria to France on her way to her new life.

It rained on and off during almost our entire two night stay there, forcing us to spend more time onsite than we had planned. It was a shame because we had to cancel our outdoor excursions and were unable to explore the hotel park or the village of Hinterzarten. On the other hand, if we had to be indoors the Parkhotel Adler was a good place. Three of its four buildings were interconnected, allowing us easy access from the main building to its two restaurants in one building and the spa and fitness area in the other. Plus some of the staff spoke English. I liked our modern and quiet rooms, the hotel’s private park, its luxury amenities, off street parking, and facilities, and would recommend it to friends planning a visit to Hinzerzarten.

Children Yes

Class of Accommodation Five Star hotel

Connectivity There was complimentary high speed WiFi in the room and common areas.

General Manager Katja Newman

Handicapped Access No, due to the architecture of the historical buildings

Length of Stay Two nights

Location It was 27 kilometers from Freiburg, Germany, about 300 kilometer from Frankfurt, Germany, and 120 kilometers from Zurich, Switzerland. The Zurich airport was the nearest convenient international airport we found, although there was heavy rush hour traffic and construction between Zurich and Hinterzarten, which delayed our arrival from our original estimated time.

Managed Hochschwarzwald Hotelbetriebs GmbH

Owned Families of Klaus Trescher and Katja Newman

Pets Allowed Dogs were welcome with advance booking and only in rooms in the main building. Except for the restaurant Wirtshus and Café Diva, pets were not allowed in public areas. Dogs were required to wear leashes when walked, while walking through the park or other areas of the hotel. The property charged guests a 20 euro supplement per night per dog. No other pets were permitted.

Size The three acre property had 56 guestrooms in four buildings and employed between 85 and 90 staff, depending on the season. The hotel owned an adjacent four acre private park with a spa and pool facility as well as an events venue and a playground for children.

Year Opened-Renovated The property, established in 1446, had been in the family for 16 generations. In 2011, the most recent renovation of the rooms and suites took place. In 2013, an outdoor pool was built, and in 2015 the property expanded its informal restaurant Wirtshus by 40 seats.

Lobby and Common Areas Building One, a historic Black Forest style structure established in 1639, had seven rooms in the second level, two restaurants on the ground level, the hotel bar, the breakfast pavilion, and the French Rooms for events of up to 110. Building Two, the Belle Epoque Main Building, was opened in 1910. It housed the front desk and lobby as well as 49 rooms and suites, including special Family Suites and the Presidential Suite. Building Three was home to the 1,500 square meter Spa Pavillon. Building Four housed Diva, a Vienna style coffee shop with a sunny terrace and views of little Adler Lake. The first three buildings were interconnected underground.

The décor was a mix of high-end materials, modern accessories and antique furniture designed to offer a “cosy and feel good atmosphere” reflective of its 570 years of history. The luminous breakfast pavilion had a Tromp l´oeil style ceiling fresco, Building One had low ceilings and an antique style interior.

Bathroom From the bedroom a sliding frosted glass door led to the bathroom. Gray marble tiles covered the floor and walls from floor to ceiling. The commode took up the right corner. A ceramic sink atop a black stone base was next followed by a small glass enclosed shower with handheld and rain shower heads. There was a heated towel rack on the wall facing the shower.

Rooms I stayed in Room 108, 33 square meters in size, with a wide view of the pool area, spa building and gardens through expansive windows. The view was the most salient feature of the room. My travel partner was assigned the 37 square meter Room 321 with a view of the building porte cochere entrance and a small balcony. They were both new looking Classic Double Rooms in excellent repair. They had high ceilings, wall to wall carpeting, pretty and comfortable furnishings and modern bathrooms. Lighting was provided by a chandelier, wall lamps, and reading lights mounted on the headboard.

Room 108 was on the first floor near the end of the hallway. It had an electronic key on the door and double doors at the entrance. It was decorated in cool shades of blue, gray and green. Two twin beds next to each other and set against a tall wood cushioned headboard were sandwiched between matching wood night tables. The room telephone was on one night table. There was a Philips radio alarm clock and iPod dock on the other night table. A Grundig flatscreen television hung on the wall across from the beds. A rectangular narrow living space faced the oversize windows. It was furnished with a glass topped table and cloth armchair on the corner and matching twin armless chairs with a glass topped round table between them in the middle. The end of the space was taken up by a closet with double doors painted white. The closet offered ample shelf and hanging space as well as an electronic safe. Room 321 had similar furnishings and layout.

Food and Restaurants Bernhard König, chef de cuisine, emphasized “creative and seasonal dishes.” He had been at the hotel since 2007. During our stay, we had dinner once at each of the two restaurants, and breakfast twice.

The Marie Antoinette restaurant was in a small historic dining room with low wood ceilings. At dinner, there was a lamp with a shade hanging over our white tablecloth covered table with silverware and a single red rose in a square vase. We sat on armless wood benches with cushions next to a ceramic tile covered stove heater. Soft music played in the background. We were the only non German speaking guests in the dining room. Although the menu was in German with the staff’s assistance we ordered dinner. From our table, we could see the entire dining room and the garden beyond it through the windows. We ordered from a set three course menu. My travel partner had the Vitello with tomato, capers and lemon, Roast beef from the Black Forest Nature Park, and Peach and vanilla dessert. I ordered the Salad variation with pork cheeks, the Sturgeon filet with green asparagus, and the Chocolate raspberry dessert. At the conclusion on the meal, Thomas, our server, invited us to pick a chocolate bite from a selection of: strawberry, praline, yogurt, coconut, and dark chocolate.

The breakfast buffet included cereal, fruit, deli meats, cheeses, juices, hot beverages, chafing dish selections, bread selection, honeycomb, jams, and eggs.

Amenities There were individual size (35 milliliter) plastic bottles of house brand shampoo, body lotion, shower gel, two individual size soap bars, professional style nail file, shower cap, vanity kit (cotton swaps and cotton make-up remover pads), sewing kit, shoe horn, and nightly turn down praline chocolate. There were also branded cotton bathrobes and slippers as well as a wicker basket with spa amenities. In the breakfast room, there were several complimentary German newspapers. On arrival, there was a complimentary small iced pound cake and a bottle of sparkling water in each room.

Facilities There were two restaurants, Marie Antoinette for fine dining and Wirtshus for informal local cuisine; Leo Lounge, the hotel bar with live music at night; event rooms; Café Diva with a terrace; spa in the private park, and an indoor and outdoor playground for children.

Fitness Center and Spa The hotel had a 1,500 square meter spa and a fitness center with 10 Life Fitness machines. The Wellness Area and Hoffmann Beauté & Physiotherapie were in the same building, although they were managed separately. According to our room folders, the Wellness Area was open from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. and the spa was open from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Outside those hours visits were available by appointment only. The building housed Beauty Center, hairdresser, indoor swimming pool, heated outdoor pool, showers, outdoor Jacuzzi, workout room, indoor and outdoor relaxation areas, three saunas and solarium. Access was possible directly from the guestroom level underground and via a stair case from the ground floor so that when it was raining visitors would not get wet or exposed to the cold.

Pool The hotel had a 16 meter by 9 meter indoor pool, and 6.5 meter by 16 meter outdoor pool. Both had a maximum depth of 1.2 meters.

Conference Facilities The hotel had six conference rooms ranging from 35 to 140 square meters. They had wireless internet access (W-LAN).

Other The hotel was a partner in the Nachhaltiger Partnerbetrieb, which sought sustainable tourism development in the Upper Black Forest Region.

Cleanliness Very good

Date of Review June 2016

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our rooms were serviced twice daily. Staff we encountered were friendly and helpful.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression I knew traveling to the Black Forest Highlands in Germany from Paris, France would be a day long affair, and expected I would be tired when I arrived at the Parkhotel Adler in the early evening. When we first planned our visit I hoped our itinerary would allow time in hotel’s spa facilities, which, except for the outdoor pool and outdoor Jacuzzi, were in a modern glazed pavilion with garden views and underground access from the main building. As the date of our trip neared the weather forecast called for continuous rain and chilly temperatures during our two night stay. It was disappointing that we had to cancel our outdoor activities. On the plus side, it meant I would be able to schedule treatments.

Figuring the spa would be extra busy due to the inclement weather I decided to book spa treatments ahead of my arrival. Because the spa menu was only available in German and seemed rather complex (it was translated to English following my visit), the staff when I called spoke very little English, and treatment days and times were limited, booking treatments was more challenging than I had anticipated. In the end, with the help of an intermediary, I scheduled three generic treatments, a pedicure, a massage, and a facial.

My therapists spoke German and other languages, but no English so we resorted to hand signals and single words to communicate preferences and answer simple questions. It was awkward at first, but the treatments were mostly unaffected and quiet. While the only staff person to speak English during was Roland Hoffmann, the spa manager, the treatments and my overall experience were good. The spa facilities were spotless and quiet and the staff friendly and welcoming. Should I return to the area I would not hesitate to book treatments at the Hoffmann Beauté & Physiotherapie spa again.

General Manager Roland Hoffmann

Handicapped Access The wellness and spa premises were unsuitable for handicapped guests. There was no elevator and it was necessary to climb stairs to reach the pool area.

Location The spa was part of the four hectare private gardens of the Parkhotel Adler in the Black Forest Highlands of Germany.

Managed Hoffmann Beauté & Physiotherapie

Number of Staff Eight

Owned Parkhotel Adler

Size The spa occupied 1,500 square meters, 1,300 square meters inside for the Beauty & Wellness Centre, sauna, solarium, and gym on the ground level, and 200 square meters outside for the indoor and outdoor pools and indoor and outdoor Jacuzzi on the first floor.

Treatment Rooms There were seven treatment rooms: three Flex-rooms for body and facial treatments, one for facial treatments, one couple´s treatment room, one for pedicures, and one room with a whirlpool bath tub. Two of the rooms had showers.

Year Opened-Renovated The Wellness and Spa pavilion structure was built in 1999.

Special Training The spa had certified beauticians, massage specialists and physiotherapists from Germany, China, Russia and Czech Republic. It offered its staff monthly internal training and refresher workshops. Spa staff developed the following treatments: Muscle-Reflexology Treatment by Roland Hoffmann; and Signature Treatment Black Forest Brush Enjoyment.

Staff received third party training in: Ayurveda Treatments (therapists had more than 10 years experience), Detox Treatments, Certified Medical Lymph Treatment, Dr Babor Facial and Body Treatment (external training twice a year), Thalgo Body Treatment (external training twice a year), Chinese Tuina Massage, Foot Reflexology (Hanne Marquardt), The Dorn Method and Breuss Massage, Craniosacral Therapy (therapist had more than 20 years experience), Biodynamic Body Treatment, Lomi Lomi, Polarity, Hot Stones, and Herb Stamp Massage.

Common Areas The spa décor was contemporary with clean lines and designed to emphasize space. It had lots of muted sunlight because of the rainy weather. It was located in the midst of the four hectare private gardens that belonged to the Parkhotel Adler. Except for the outdoor pool and outdoor Jacuzzi facilities were in a modern glazed Pavilion with hotel garden views. The sauna was designed Japanese style.

Food and Restaurants The restaurant offered a limited menu poolside for lunch and beverages throughout the day.

Amenities There was a basket with slippers and bathrobes in my hotel room closet for use at the spa. The spa showers had cleansing foam and soap, according to a spokesperson. By 7 a.m. the spa offered complimentary coffee, tea and fresh croissants. During the day fresh water, tea, fresh fruits and juice were offered to guests on a complimentary basis. I did not see the hot beverages and was offered water during my visit.

Facilities Solarium, sauna with Earth-Fire and Aroma-Soft areas, steam room, mood showers and foot basin as well as a hair dressing salon and a workout room.

Pool The indoor pool was 16 meters by 9 meter large and heated to approximately 28 degrees Celsius. The outdoor pool was also heated and 16 meters by 6.50 meters in size. There were lounge chairs surrounding the indoor pool.

Lockers and Bathrooms In the Dressing Rooms there were 26 lockers, showers and toilets.

Other I was unsure when the spa facilities were open. I was under the impression, based on the information in my room folder, that the spa only opened late in the morning and some facilities like the sauna opened in the afternoon. The official opening hours for the Beauty & Wellness Centre (treatments and information) were daily from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Subject to availability, on demand treatments could be booked outside the opening hours with advance notice. The indoor pool and gym were open daily from 7 a.m. until 9 p.m. and the outdoor pool was open daily year round at varying times depending on the season and weather conditions. The sauna was open from 1 p.m. to 9 p.m. In July and August, the sauna might be open later.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Review June 2016

Number of Treatments Three

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Treatments Experienced I had a Chinese style massage (similar to a deep tissue, the manager explained), a facial and a pedicure. All three were worth repeating at a future time.

Would You Return? Yes

Overall Impression In a week of travel in the Black Forest Highlands of Germany the Boutique-Hotel Alemannenhof stood out for its outstanding Lake Titisee views, cozy ambiance, warm and efficient service, modern, comfortable and spotless facilities, and good restaurant. The Black Forest oriented breakfast buffet was satisfying and diverse. Lunch and dinner with a lake view, weather permitting, were a blend of modern and traditional recipes, fresh local products and imports, and well prepared dishes.

Named Alemannen for a tribe in Southwest Germany who had in ancient times fought the Romans, the hotel was the labor of love of the local Drubba Family. We admired the patriarch’s emphasis on historic authenticity. He had dedicated much effort to replicating historic details within the boutique property’s roof, front entrance wood door and wood interiors.

We liked our pretty and functional 18 square meter rooms (what they lacked in size they more than made up for in lake views) and common areas, the hotel’s efforts to blend into the lake scenery and reflect the area history, and the restaurant as well as its responsible tourism practices. While the weather was less than cooperative, hampering our ability to explore and spend time on the hotel terraces, we had a most pleasant stay. Should we return to Lake Titisee the Alemannenhof will be first on our list of luxury accommodations

Children Yes

Class of Accommodation Four Star boutique hotel

Connectivity There was complimentary high speed WLAN WiFi although the connection was too slow for Skype calls. Also, Firefox rejected the connection without the use of a VPN (virtual private network) even to common sites such as weather and search engines.

General Manager Thomas Drubba

Handicapped Access Yes, there was one room capable of accommodating handicapped guests.

Length of Stay Two nights

Location In the outskirts of the village of Hinzerzarten on the shore of Lake Titisee in the Black Forest Highlands of Southwest Germany.

Owned and managed Drubba Family

Pets Allowed Yes, dogs were welcome (a 15 euro fee per dog applied).

Size The three story hotel with 21 rooms was built within a 1.5 hectare property and employed 38 staff.

Year Opened-Renovated The property opened March 1983. The most recent renovation was of the main building from 2010 to 2012. The hotel was renovated in three construction phases. All guest rooms were upgraded, the lobby expanded, the reception area redesigned and a bar and outdoor terrace were built.

Lobby and Common Areas The hotel was decorated with an eye toward Black Forest traditions as well as “contemporary aesthetics and urban chic.”

Bathroom The bathroom had ecru color tile on the floor and walls. It was divided into two. At the back, there was a separate commode with a sliding privacy door. The other half had, on the left, a sink atop a faux wood base with a built-in rectangular frameless mirror and see-through glass on either side that allowed me to see across the room to the lake. Below the sink, there was a shelf with a blow dryer and tissue paper. A well lit walk-in shower with glass doors was on the right.

Room We stayed in Rooms 323 and 324, nearly identical 18 square meter nonsmoking Superior-Double rooms. Both had beautiful view south across Lake Titisee. Features included dark wood floors, recessed lights, double curtains for privacy and shade from the sunlight, and quiet and well insulated interiors thanks to large double pane windows.

In the center of each room there were two single beds set against a single oversize wood headboard with built-in night tables and adjustable lamps on each side as well as convenient light controls. Across the room there was a built-in cabinet with a mini bar refrigerator, two drawers, and a desk with a lamp. A Grundig flatscreen television hung on the wall above the drawer space. To one side of the built-in cabinet, occupying the center in front of the windows, there were two red cloth armchairs (that matched the red curtains) with a small round table between them. To sit at the desk I moved one of the armchairs toward the opening. In lieu of a door the closet space had a white cloth cover that slid sideways to conceal or reveal the closet and provide privacy in the bathroom as well.

Food and Restaurants The hotel restaurant, open from 7:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., offered indoor and outdoor seating. The terrace looked out toward the lake. The restaurant recommended guests reserve a table in advance. A breakfast buffet emphasizing local products was available from 7:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. It had fresh fruit (bananas, green grapes, kiwi), fruit salad, a variety of breads, jams, and honey, deli meats, smoked fish, cheese platter, several types of cereal, and chafing dishes of bacon, eggs, mini sausages.

For lunch, we sat indoors as a wedding party had reserved the entire terrace. Our server brought two types of butter, lard and anisette. There was also homemade passion fruit vinegar, a favorite. My travel partner had Variation of cheese spätzl with Fried onions, a favorite. It was served in two bowls. One portion, in a large bowl, was made with Emmental cheese. Another, in a small bowl, was made with local mountain cheese. I had a lovely Black Forest trout fillet with Lemon butter, Ginger carrots and Sesame potatoes. For dessert we tried a Schwarzwald Waffle made with cooked cherries.

In the late afternoon we had aperitifs on the upstairs terrace next to the Bar to once more soak in the pretty lake views. Following a local’s recommendation, I tried the house cocktail made with champagne and cucumbers and it instantly became a favorite. For dinner, we sat on the terrace, enjoying the view while the last of the daylight lit up the lake. My travel partner had a Rump steak of Hereford beef with fried cauliflower, potato and wild garlic puree. I ordered the Breaded pork schnitzel with Warm potato salad (which the menu indicated had preservatives, phosphate and antioxidants as per German law). Once again, we had a Schwarzwald Waffle. We liked that the restaurant served free range chicken, meat from cows that roamed in the meadows, and local trout and that the ingredients for the restaurant were “fresh, local, carefully treated and lovingly chosen,” according to the hotel manager. Our meals were abundant and satisfying.

Facilities Lobby bar and terrace with lake view, indoor plunge pool, spa room, infra-red cabin, outdoor Seelounge sundeck, and restaurant.

Fitness Center and Spa Although wellness treatments were listed in the room materials, no treatments were available in the 25 square meter facility during our stay.

Pool A sauna and an indoor pool were open from 8 a.m. until 10 p.m. The pool was 4 meters by 8 meters large and 1.30 meters deep. There were some lounge chairs by the pool and additional ones on the lawn.

Amenities House brand cotton pads and swabs, nail file, shower cap, and individual size (15 grams) Pure Herbs soap. There were also French Payot shampoo and body milk in 25 milliliter plastic tubes. When we left they gifted us bottles of house brand herb flavored olive oil and passion fruit vinegar, which we had sampled at the restaurant. In the room, there was complimentary bottled water, a mini bar refrigerator, umbrellas, cotton bathrobes, slippers, front LED lit make-up mirror, electronic safe (my room did not have one, but my travel partner’s did). On request there were pillow choices. There were German newspapers in the lobby and in the dining room at breakfast. It was possible to borrow an iPad from reception for onsite use. According to our room folder, there was room service (a minimum 5 euro service charge applied) from midday until 9:30 p.m., a sewing service for guests, and complimentary shuttle service within 2 kilometers from the hotel. Guests who stayed two nights or longer received a Konus –Karte Hochschwarzwald card (mentioned in Other as well) valid for complimentary rides on designated buses, trains and boats and admission to regional attractions. Guests also had complimentary access to a house rowboat and could rent an electric car, BMWi3, for local use.

Conference Facilities The hotel had a 30 square meter meeting room with capacity for 10 people.

Other Responsible and green tourism efforts included waste separation, food leftovers sent to a biogas plant, electricity sourced from regional power generation, and use of high power efficiency such as LED lights.

It was possible to check in beginning at 3 p.m. and check out was at 11 a.m. There was a staff person at reception from 6 a.m. until 10 p.m. Guests out later than that had to take their room key with them to enter on their return.

Since we stayed two nights were received a Hochschwarzwald Card also known as a Red Card, which provided complimentary admission to 70 regional attractions. It had to be returned to reception on departure. Because it rained during a large part of our stay we were unable to take advantage of our card benefits.

The hotel offered same day laundry (washing and ironing) service. We appreciated the service in particular because it was the only one of four hotels we stayed at during our Black Forest Highlands trip which offered same day laundry service. The bar opened at 5 p.m. Hotel guests could take advantage of the hotel’s private landing dock and complimentary transfers to and front the village of Titisee aboard its two boats. Although the hotel preferred payment via debit card it welcome major credit cards.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Review June 2016

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression When I think back to our two night stay at Le Domaine d’Ablon in Normandy, France the scents of the fireplace and Bulgari White Tea toiletries from our charming renovated XVI century cottage are the first memories that pop into my mind. The mix of a clean homey setting with historic and regional authenticity, sophisticated touches and an emphasis on fresh produce, gourmet and homemade products was appealing and would draw me back in a heartbeat.

During our stay, Christophe Delaune, the owner, and the property were so intimately linked I do not conceive of one without the other. Under his watchful eye, the vestiges of the two-bedroom cottage where we stayed had been lovingly rebuilt using antique materials while conforming to modern standards of comfort. The former successful business executive was exacting, punctual, ambitious, knowledgeable, and dedicated to the pursuit of perfection within the luxury and gourmet bed and breakfast with an authentic historic Normandy theme.

Advance planning was required to enjoy the best the tiny property had to offer. For example, to dine in it was necessary to place our dinner order in the morning. In the same vein, booking an onsite massage and selecting breakfast deli options required a day’s notice. Any inconvenience that might have aroused was easily overcome by the many attractive features of Le Domaine d’Ablon. Examples of those included the high standard of construction; top quality food and products on offer, many of them homemade (such as outstanding honey for breakfast) and prepared by the property’s dedicated chef and baker; the owner’s knowledge and willingness to advise us about the environs; conventional, herb and vegetable and fruit gardens; and many details like high thread count embroidered fine linen, comfortable furnishings, and warm interior. Should we visit Ablon or Honfleur for leisure again Le Domaine d’Ablon will be our top choice.

Children Thee property welcomed children of all ages

Class of Accommodation Five Star bed and breakfast

Connectivity There was complimentary high speed WiFi in the cottage and common areas. Initially I had trouble connecting. At the owner’s suggestion I connected in the reception building and returned to the cottage. After that my connection remained steady.

General Manager Christophe Delaune

Handicapped Access Although the property welcomed handicapped guests it was necessary to cross uneven ground and grass to reach our cottage as well as other areas of the property. Inside our cottage, there were steps and steep wooden stairs difficult for someone with limited mobility to access.

Length of Stay Two nights

Location Within the Village of Ablon, about 190 kilometers from Paris and seven kilometers from Honfleur, in the Normandy region of France.

Managed Cottage Consulting

Owned Christophe Delaune

Pets Allowed Yes, it was a pet friendly property.

Size The four room property on five hectares had multiple buildings and employed five.

Year Opened-Renovated The property opened in October 2015

Lobby and Common Areas Initially our GPS led us down the wrong path and we had to call for directions. From the main two lane country road on which we arrived in Ablon we took a narrow one lane road down about a quarter mile to reach the property entrance. Two minutes later we spotted a sign with the property name which confirmed we had nearly arrived. Another sign marked the entrance and parking area. Christophe, clad in casual black clothes, welcomed us. After we parked our car he led us down a grassy cobbled path to our cottage in a golf cart. The two desk reception and library as well as our two-bedroom cottage were decorated in Norman style, featuring original art work in every room and the common areas, as well as antique furnishings.

Bathroom The fully renovated and spotless bathrooms were divided into a bathing room upstairs and two toilet rooms with sinks, one upstairs at the top of the staircase, and one downstairs behind the fireplace. The bathing room was accessible by crossing the first and second bedrooms and by climbing a steep wood staircase from the ground floor. It housed a clawfoot bathtub, a cloth stool, a shower with frosted glass doors, and a white ceramic sink on a natural black stone base set atop a wood cabinet. A hexagonal shaped framed mirror hung above the sink. In the corner next to a rectangular window there was a doorless linen closet with towels, vanity kit, and slippers across from a small doorless closet with hanging bathrobes, a vanity mirror and extra toiletries.

Room We stayed in La Petite Chaumière, a spacious 130 square meter two bedroom two story non smoking cottage with a private terrace and 2,000 square meter garden. The carefully restored original building dated back to the XVI century. To reach it we walked from the nearby covered parking area down an uneven grass and stone path. Scented flowers grew on vines and bushes around the facade and garden area adjacent to the entrance.

Inside the old building had been lovingly restored with original materials and an eye toward comfort and modern conveniences. The cottage had two main sections. Downstairs there was a living room with a guest bathroom, and a kitchen. Two staircases led to the second story sleeping quarters with two bedrooms and a divided bathroom. Elements included exposed wood beams, terrazzo floors downstairs and polished wood floors upstairs, original art, fresh flowers in the living area, coffee table books, recessed lights and small lamps, embroidered duvets, and branded leather coasters and bottle holders on the night tables. Lighting was from sunlight during the day and dim lamps at night. The temperature was controlled via an automatic central heating system. It was chilly within the cottage during our spring visit, especially downstairs, which made us appreciate the fireplace. Upstairs it was slightly warmer. The beds had thick white duvets with the property logo embroidered on them and two feather pillows each as well as a wool throw blanket.

From the ground floor we could enter the cottage through doors on the side, living room, or kitchen. The salient feature of the ground floor was its oversize open fireplace and comfortable living space. In the center of the living area there was a rectangular wood table with a vase of fresh flowers, a wood bowl and a glass covered cake stand. There were also two cloth benches and a cloth loveseat. Across the room from the loveseat there was a cloth armchair next to an upright lamp and a basket full of wood for the fire. Behind the benches there was a cloth sofa with an Italian wool throw perpendicular to a wood desk. A telephone and a lamp sat atop the desk. A wood cabinet across the room from the sofa housed books, DVDs, Samsung flatscreen television, and DVD player.

The kitchen housed a wood trestle table with matching benches on either side as well as armless wood and metal end chairs. It had cookware, dinnerware, and glassware as well as wood wine rack, cutting board marble block table, wood dinnerware cabinet, LacornFé five burner gas stove and oven, refrigerator freezer, Hitachi microwave oven, and mini Proline dishwasher at the bottom of the refrigerator. There was also toaster, hot water pitcher, Nespresso machine, and coffee maker.

Behind the living area a door led to an interior covered nook with potted plants and a side door to the property herb garden. On the opposite side a single staircase led to a wood door and the first floor bedrooms. The upstairs walls were pitched, making it necessary to watch my step when walking around to avoid bumping my head. Immediately past the door there was a terracotta floor and a small foyer with closet space on one side and half a bathroom (toilet and sink) on the other. Past it a small bedroom had two single beds with a shared wood night table and a lamp. Across the room there was a gray love seat. A single window faced the garden path and garden.

A slightly larger door than the one at the top of the stairs opened onto the master bedroom, which was home to a queen bed. A rectangular window had views of the herb garden and the fruit and vegetable garden behind it. There was a cloth armchair behind the bedroom door. Another wood door led to a foyer with a wood cabinet. It had a window with a view to the front of the cottage and the garden. There was also a steep wood staircase leading down to the ground floor. The entrance to the bathing room was in the foyer.

Food During our stay, breakfast and dinner served in our cottage were available. Le Domaine d’Ablon served all local products. Vegetables, fresh eggs and fruits were sourced from the property’s organic garden. We enjoyed the artisan meals served in our cottage with branded tablecloth service and Christofle cutlery. It was necessary to place our dinner order in the morning from the property’s menu. We emailed asking what for descriptions of the Domaine d’Ablon and dessert of the day. Although they replied quickly we had already left. By the time we arrived at the property it was too late to make a choice. They had ordered one of each on our behalf.

For dinner I ordered the Camembert and ham tartelette and the vegetable main course as well as a side salad (lettuce and chives). My travel partner ordered scallops for a starter and an escalope dish with a side salad (lettuce and chives). Both tasted fresh and were well presented.

For breakfast we had the regular set menu: fresh squeezed orange juice, hot beverages (coffee and homemade hot chocolate), two pain au chocolat and two croissant, two mini cakes of the day (pistachio and cherry and chocolate), hot toast in a basket, Borderie unflavored yogurt and butter (stamped with the property logo), homemade orange marmalade and jams (plum, blackberry, apricot and strawberry), homemade chocolate and hazelnut spread, and delicious thick natural honey from the property hives. The second night we had a cheese plate with about 12 mild cheese varieties (one portion for each), apple compote, cherry tomatoes, radishes, two types of bread and nut and date crackers. We sampled a rose cider with it. We enjoyed everything we ate while at the property. The food tasted well and was fresh.

Amenities There were individual size Bulgari White Tea toiletries: soap in the bathrooms, refresher towels, shampoo, conditioner, body wash and body lotion, and Green Tea tea bags for the bathtub. There were also cotton bathrobes, slippers, complimentary WiFi, coffee capsules, tea and herbal tea, complimentary soft drinks and bottled water (one glass bottle each of Evian, Perrier). There were hair dryer, electronic safe, umbrella, iPod charger cable, HD TV screen, DVD player (guests could borrow DVDs from 5,000 movie library in the main building), and iPad on loan from reception, if needed. Guests had access to in room dining with meals prepared by a private chef. There were also delicious welcome macarons (one each of pistachio, vanilla, praline and lemon) and bite size gourmet chocolates made by a property owned chocolate shop in Honfleur. The second day there were new macaron flavors (strawberry, chocolate, praline and vanilla, and mango).

With advance notice of 15 minutes the property offered assistance with luggage. During the raining season rubber boots were available for guests who wanted to visit the surrounding area on foot. Also listed in the room folder were complimentary use of mountain bicycle and electrical bicycle, sport coach, access to the property’s organic kitchen garden, and assistance booking private tours and exclusive activities such as cooking classes.

Facilities Herb and fruit and vegetable gardens and main building reception and library.

Other In the background, I could hear birdsong and sometimes motor sounds. I had a combination of Swedish and Thai massage with Fonsine with grapeseed and carrot oil. She brought a heating pad and music and it was relaxing. Should I return I would look forward to another massage.

The owner had major expansion plans for the property within the following two years, including the addition of a spa, swimming pool, fitness center, home theater, business center for up to 30 people, and cottage with features for handicapped guests.

Service Our cottage was serviced once daily. If we needed anything while we were in the cottage all we had to do was pick up the desk phone and dial to reach the owner’s mobile phone. He was well informed about the area. When we mentioned our plans to visit Honfleur he volunteered dinning and other suggestions, which were welcome and helpful.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Review May 2016

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Would You Stay There Again? Yes