Overall Impression As the core of the Habsburg Dynasty for over half a millennium, Austria developed a rich cultural heritage with two widely diverging personalities. First there is Vienna on the Danube in the eastern reaches of the country, which was home to the Habsburg court from the end of the Middle Ages until the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire at the end of the First World War. Throughout the centuries it grew into one of the leading capitals of Europe, filled with grand palaces and monuments; and it became a beacon of the arts, especially music. Today, with a population of 1.7 million (20 percent of Austria’s total population) Vienna remains Austria’s political, cultural and economic center. Here, history and traditions meld with contemporary vitality to create an especially stimulating environment. Meanwhile at the western tip of the country, nestled within a picture-book alpine landscape, the lovely baroque city of Salzburg, birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, has attained international fame among music lovers for its annual Salzburg Festival. Outside of Vienna, however, Austria has remained a mainly rural environment of small communities, slow-paced and steadfastly attached to their traditions, some said to date back to Celtic and Roman times.

With the Alps covering over three quarters of the country, Austria has long been a favorite with tourists who value its unspoiled natural beauty. Winter sports enthusiasts appreciate its abundant snow and quaint ski resorts that have retained the cozy, family-friendly atmosphere of the farming villages they once were. Meanwhile in the summer, these same slopes become an idyllic setting for hiking, mountain climbing and cycling, while the clear mountain streams and lakes invite all manners of water sports.

Whether for culture or nature tourism, winter or summer, Austria is a popular holiday destination in Europe, and one that I always find a new reason to revisit.

Cost Of Visiting For American travelers, with the exchange rate of the dollar versus the euro historically low at the time of my visit, prices were generally expensive.

Currency Euro

Electrical Current 220 Volts. Wall receptacles accommodated the Type C two round prongs plugs commonly used in most parts of Western Europe.

How To Get There There were regular flights to Vienna International Airport from most major European cities. Austria could also be easily reached by car or train from many parts of Western and Central Europe.

Location In Central Europe, bordered by Germany and the Czech Republic to the north, Slovakia and Hungary to the east, Slovenia and Italy to the south and Switzerland and Liechtenstein to the west.

Measures Metric system

Technology High-speed Internet connectivity and mobile phone reception were widely available wherever I went.

Time GMT/UTC plus one hour

Transportation Austria had a good highway and road network and an equally well-developed national railroad system with reliable and comfortable intercity trains. I chose the latter for travel within the country as a relaxing and cost-effective alternative car rental. One frustrating detail when planning my visit was the user-unfriendliness of the Austrian Railways website. While it provided a detailed and accurate schedule, its on-line booking feature appeared defective. I spent countless hours in the weeks preceding my visit in an unsuccessful attempt to purchase my tickets on-line. I finally gave up and used the services of a travel agency upon arrival in Vienna, where the transaction was easily completed in a matter of minutes. Within Vienna, the city center was easily walkable. There was a good public transportation network of trams and subways within the urban area. Both were dependable and clean. Metered taxis were readily available and reasonably priced.

Shopping In Vienna, the abundance of art, antiques, international fashion and luxury goods was such that shopping was limited only by taste, budget and airline luggage allowance. The center of town was bursting with souvenir shops focusing mainly on imperial and Mozart-related trinkets and memorabilia. In East Tyrol, where traditional clothing is still worn on special occasion, there were well-stocked shops offering attractive, high quality and pricey Tyrolean fashion items.

Tourism Highlights

East Tyrol And Lienz One of my favorite country get-away destinations in Austria is East Tyrol, in the remote southern part of the country. Surrounded by steep alpine pastures and lofty peaks in a valley where the Alps meet the Dolomites, the quaint little medieval town of Lienz (the main city in the area with 13,000 inhabitants) stands at the confluence of two pristine mountain streams, the Drau and the Isel. The climate is usually mild here, with a sunny disposition that reminds me that Northern Italy is only a couple of hours away. With its scenic beauty, a handful of well preserved medieval manors and churches, and excellent skiing facilities right in the center of town, it offers just the right amount of activity to make for a relaxing interlude whenever my travels take me to the area. However, my personal main attraction to the city is the superb hospitality of its five-star GrandHotel Lienz, home to one of the best spa facilities I have come across anywhere.

Music Vienna is arguably the classical music capital of the world. Not only did many of the great European composers live there, but also it is to this day home to four opera houses and a number of famed concert halls. The program for these prestigious venues is always well documented and advertized throughout the music world. One drawback is that they are immensely popular with Viennese as well as tourists, so that it is imperative to plan well ahead in order to secure tickets for these great performances. As an impulse traveler and concertgoer, I am often disappointed when I try to secure last-minute seats. However, in Vienna, great music is not limited to prestigious venues. Almost every day of the week, smaller neighborhood halls and churches offered quality performances that could be enjoyed on short notice. A favorite of mine was the free organ concert that takes place at the Saint Stephen’s Cathedral several afternoons a week at 3 p.m. All I had to do was wander in, sit down and enjoy whatever flowed from the superb instrument, while gazing at the light streaming through the high stained glass windows.

Salzburg Clear across the country to the west, tucked in a deep alpine valley bisected by the Salzach River, the picturesque baroque center of Salzburg is considered one of the best-preserved in central Europe. It was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. However, architectural attractions notwithstanding, Salzburg owes most of its 20 ^th century celebrity to the performing arts. It is home to the internationally acclaimed Salzburg Festival of music and drama held each summer for five weeks starting in late July. Additionally the Salzburg Easter Festival, started in 1967 by the great Austrian conductor Herbert von Karajan attracts opera lovers to the city from the Palm Sunday weekend until Easter Monday.

Vienna For first-time visitors the “guide-book musts” are many and well documented. In the heart of the city, the Hofburg Palace, principal imperial winter residence of past emperors, grew over the centuries to the size of a city neighborhood. Today in addition to being the residence of Austria’s president, it houses a number of museums including the imperial apartments and the Schatzkammer (treasury) with the treasures and jewels of the Hapsburg Dynasty. At the edge of the grounds, the Spanish Riding School offered daily performances. Additionally, the training sessions (with music) of the world famous white Lipizzaner horses were open to the public.

Museums Directly across from the Hofburg Palace are the sprawling Kunsthistorisches Museum (Art Museum) filled with old masters paintings and ancient and classical artifacts, and the Naturhistorisches Museum (Museum of Natural History). Then, just across the Ringstrasse (or simply the Ring), the wide boulevard that circles the city center, the former imperial stables were converted in the 1990’s into a museum complex that houses, among others, the Museum of Modern Art and one of my personal favorites, the Leopold Museum.

The Leopold Museum holds a treasure trove of Austrian Modernist masterpieces, including the world’s largest collection of the works of the great figurative painter of the early 20 ^th century Egon Schiele. Although he died at the age of 29 in 1918, he left an incredible body of work, of which 330 oil canvases and over 2,500 drawings are part of the Leopold’s collection. In addition to his major works on permanent display, a number of paintings by Gustav Klimt, Oskar Kokoschka and others are found there, as well as an extensive collection of Art Nouveau jewelry and crafts.

Another favorite of mine is the Belvedere, a 20-minute walk south of the Ring. Built in the early 18 ^th century as the summer residence of Prince Eugene of Savoy, the complex consists of two baroque palaces, the Orangery and the stables. Its gently graded grounds with tiered fountains and cascades are reminiscent of France’s Palais de Versailles. Now a museum complex, it houses a collection of Austrian art from the Middle Ages to the present. However its main attraction is the world’s largest collection of works by Gustav Klimt (including the world-famous golden The Kiss and Judith I ) in the Upper Belvedere . At the far end of the gardens, the Lower Belvedere hosts an extensive compilation of medieval and baroque art, and various temporary exhibits.

Date Of Last Visit February 2011

Reviewers Article and photos by Josette King

Would You Visit Again? Yes

Overall Impression Stepping through the pillared entrance of the Grand Hotel Wien was a journey back to the glittering days of Austria’s 19 ^th century imperial splendor. Designed by Karl Tietz, one of the most celebrated architects of his time, it was, when it opened its doors in 1870, the first luxury hotel in the city. With the new Imperial Opera House (now the Vienna State Opera) opened the previous year just one block away, and the nearby Musikverein concert hall (now home to the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra) also inaugurated in 1870, it quickly became a hit with the aristocracy. It retained its status as a place to be seen until the Second World War. Although its fortunes waned during the second half of the 20 ^th century, it re-opened in 1994 after four years and 100 million euros of renovations to quickly become once again a pinnacle of Viennese social life, and to welcome amongst its guests many international celebrities, political figures and business leaders.

The Grand Hotel put all of Vienna’s past and present at my fingertips. Beyond its painstakingly restored classic façade, the palatial interior spaces, tastefully toned-down Viennese Grand Style décor and impeccable service spoke of the romantic grandeur of a bygone area, albeit with all the technologies and comforts the 21 ^st century has to offer. The location was superb. The most significant historic and artistic landmarks of the city, including the Hofburg Imperial Palace, Saint Stephen’s Cathedral, the Belvedere and the Museum Quarter were at most a 20-minute walk away. And some of the most elegant shopping in the city was just out of the back door, with Kärntner Street as a gateway to miles of antique shops and local and international designer boutiques.

The hotel was graced with some of the best dining options in the city with two gourmet restaurants. Le Ciel offered French dinning with a Viennese flair, and Unkai served some of the best Japanese food in the region. There was also Le Grand Café, for casual meals and snacks, and the Rosengarten (rose garden) tea room for snacks and decadent local pastries with a background of live classical piano music. As I visited during an exceptionally cold winter spell, I was especially delighted by these varied options for dining “at home” after a day of roaming the city.

With its unique location at the heart of the best Vienna has to offer, luxurious accommodations and service, fabulous old world décor and superb dining, the Grand Hotel Wien made my list of places to revisit and recommend to friends and colleagues who want to fully experience the timeless romance of the Habsburg imperial city.

Children Yes

Class Of Accommodation Five star luxury hotel

Concierge Marcus Goettle

Connectivity There was complimentary high-speed WiFi in my room.

General Manager Karl-Peter Echtermeijer

Handicapped Access Yes

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location On the historic Ringstrasse , at the edge of the Vienna city center. It was a 30-minute drive from Vienna International Airport.

Owned-Managed JJW Hotels and Resorts, Limited, an international private company of Sheikh Mohamed Bin Issa Al Jaber. The managing director was Karim Jalloul.

Pets Allowed Yes

Size The seven-story property had 205 rooms and suites.

Year Opened-Renovated The Grand Hotel Wien opened in 1870. It was fully renovated in 1994

Lobby And Common Areas The light-filled lobby and reception area was a stunning expanse of soaring neo-classic columns, marble marquetry floors, sparkling beveled mirrors and crystal chandeliers. To the right of the foyer, the Rosengarten tearoom with its overstuffed damask chairs and tantalizing pastry cart was a prime people-watching spot. In the center rear of the foyer, an elegant, ball gown-worthy staircase led to a balconied mezzanine with an intricate bronze railing that hinted of the Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) style that swept through the city at the turn of the 20 ^th century. Throughout the common areas and upper floors corridors gilded gate-legged rococo tables and glass-fronted display armoires held an extensive collection of Augarten Viennese Blanc de Chine figurines and other antique porcelains.

Bathroom The color scheme of the marble bathroom was beige and cinnamon, with the floor, and walls, as well as the top of the double sink vanity and the ledge of the bathtub made of beige marble with contrasting cinnamon-colored accents. The oversized bathtub had an in-tub shower with a rain showerhead as well as a hand-held shower. A large mirror, two glass Lalique-style sconces and a lighted magnifying mirror hung above the vanity. Next to it, a door led to a water closet with commode and bidet. The faucets, showerhead and towel racks were made of gilded metal. The bathroom and water closet floors had underfloor heating.

Room My 45 square meter (485 square foot) Exclusive room, Number 303, had a relaxing celadon green color scheme. The walls were covered in rich silk brocade that matched the floor-to-ceiling draperies, king size headboard and coverlet and the two bergères that sat on either side of an occasional table in front of the French window. The color-coordinated wall-to-wall carpeting had an Aubusson-style pattern and borders in contrasting taupe. The bed was framed by gate-legged two-drawer chests with green marble tops. Opposite the bed, a walnut armoire housed an LCD television screen. Next to it, a low storage chest doubled as a bench and luggage rack. On the rear wall, a mirror hung above an ornate writing desk of inlaid walnut with gilded metal trim. Its high back desk chair was upholstered in cinnabar wool. Wall sconces, bedside, floor and desk lamps had brass candlestick bases with cream silk shades. Antique engravings of Viennese street scenes in gold frames completed the décor.

Food And Restaurants From breakfast to nightcap, the Grand Hotel offered a variety of excellent dining options. My day started at the Grand Café, on the mezzanine overlooking the glittering lobby. The sumptuous breakfast buffet, with its near endless variety of offerings from smoked fish and charcuteries to cooked breakfast meats, vegetable and eggs, was a daily dilemma. And resisting the overflowing baskets of freshly baked viennoiseries would have required more willpower than I could muster. In addition to breakfast, the Grand Café offered a menu of typical Viennese dishes throughout the day, as well as tea or coffee breaks with pastries and snacks. However, when it came to enjoying my afternoon Viennese coffee, my preferred spot, and apparently that of many local patrons as well as hotel guests was the Rosengarten tearoom, off the lobby just below the Grand Café. It was a lovely place for people-watching while sampling one of Vienna’s famed pastries. On the opposite side of the mezzanine from the Grand Café, the Kavalierbar offered a vast array of classic cocktails and an extensive selection of fine cigars.

Meanwhile dining Nirvana was just a short elevator ride up to the seventh floor where two award-winning restaurants were tucked under the elegantly sky-lit roofs of the property. To the right of a central foyer, Unkai (Japanese for “sea in the clouds”) welcomed guests into its serene minimalist contemporary far-Eastern domain. There was nothing minimalist about the menu, however. Unkai proposed a stunning variety of Japanese specialties that went far beyond sushi and tempura; although these were also available and superb. My Kamonannbanudon Sannma Gozen lunch (I decided this must have been Japanese for tasting menu, or should be) included a hotpot with slices of grilled duck breast and vegetable fritters in a full-bodied broth, a whole Pacific Sauri (also known as mackerel pike) grilled to perfection, and a scrumptious tea custard dessert. Small wonder that Gault Millau awarded two toques (one of Europe’s most prestigious culinary awards) in 2010 to Unkai and Chef Iroshi Sakai. And for those who just yearn for a quick treat, Unkai-Sushi, located directly off the hotel lobby offered a quick service option for the same high quality sushi and sashimi that could be leisurely enjoyed upstairs.

To the left of the seventh floor foyer, the sumptuous Le Ciel (French for sky) was a sanctuary of haute cuisine in the grand French tradition. With Chef Jacqueline Pfeiffer at the helm since 2003, the restaurant had long secured its own Gault Millau two toques . Its golden-pillared walls and glittering crystal chandeliers were a perfect backdrop for the magic that unfolded on the Bernardaud Limoge china plates. My dinner started with a flute of Sekt (local sparkling wine) from the aperitif cart and an amuse-bouche of beetroot cream served in an espresso cup, accompanied by a velvety pike quenelle . It continued with an appetizer of rabbit loin in aspic paired with chanterelles on a buckwheat crèpe, and a glorious grilled salmon entrée. Dessert was an extravaganza of chocolate creations, each morsel lighter and richer than the next, punctuated by a dollop of citrus sorbet. Le Ciel was a favorite of Viennese society as well as international visitors. The night of my visit happened to coincide with one of the most sought-after balls of the Vienna Season. In addition to the usual dinner attendance, several tables were occupied by women in shimmering ball gowns and men in tails enjoying a pre-ball dinner. In spite of the busy evening, my meal was exquisite and as perfectly paced as a well-choreographed ballet.

Amenities Room amenities included an electric kettle with tea and coffee service, bottled mineral water, small welcome fruit basket and an individual size of the Grand Hotel Wien signature Guglhupf (one of Austria’s most traditional pound-cake like pastry), electronic safe, shoehorn and shoe polish sponge. Bathroom amenities included bathrobes and slippers, magnifying mirror, hairdryer, bathroom scale, facial tissues, cotton balls and swabs, dental floss, nail file, comb, shower cap and individual sizes of house-brand hand-milled soap, hair wash and conditioner, shower gel and body lotion.

Facilities There were four restaurants, a tearoom, a bar, a business center and a fitness room.

Fitness Center There was a small fitness room with basic exercise equipment.

Conference Facilities There were 14 banquet and meeting rooms equipped with current communications and audio-visual equipment. The largest, the formal ballroom, had a maximum capacity of 500 people for receptions and 300 for seated lunch or dinner meetings.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review February 2011

Reviewers Article and photos by Josette King

Service The room was serviced twice daily. Every member of the staff I came in contact with during my stay was unfailingly friendly, attentive and helpful.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Lienz is a lovely little medieval town in the farthest reaches of southern Austria. Tucked away in a picturesque valley between the Grossglockner (one of the highest peaks in the Alps) and the Dolomites, it is prime four-season vacationing country for mountain sports aficionados. But for me, despite the 13 ^th century castle, the ancient churches with their well-preserved frescos and the pristine alpine landscapes, the city’s main claim to fame was in the remarkable Grandhotel Lienz. This newly constructed luxury retreat and its unique spa came as close to perfection as any boutique property I have ever come across, and more than justified the few hours’ journey from Vienna.

This outstanding hotel was the brainchild and arguably the masterpiece of Heinz Simonitsch, a prominent international hospitality executive who had been awarded the title of professor by Republic of Austria ‘s President for his “special work in the diplomatic, education and welfare area.” A decade ago, the Austrian native fell in love with the city and decided to retire there after a brilliant 39-year career in the Caribbean, where he is widely recognized for transforming Jamaica’s Half Moon from a faltering property into a world-class resort. He had no sooner settled in Lienz that the city fathers coaxed him out of retirement. They challenged him to develop one more world-class property, in their town. After extensive planning and two years of construction, the family-owned and managed Grandhotel Lienz opened its doors in May 2009.

Here, every aspect of luxury hospitality and service reached a whole new level. Guests had their reserved table in the dinning room for the duration of their stay, and their own numbered parking space in the underground garage. Just off the garage, the ski-storage room had heated boot racks. There was also a bicycle room for summer use. The layout of the building ensured that guests, wrapped in the lush bathrobes found in their room for that purpose, had access to the spa or wellness center without traversing any of the common areas. The spa’s heated indoor/outdoor swimming pool overlooked the river and the mountains; access to the outdoor part, which was also an oversized whirlpool, was by walking through sliding doors only partially submersed (“for ladies who prefer not to wet their hair” it was explained). In addition to the stunning two-story spa with sophisticated treatment rooms, multiple saunas and steam room and serene relaxation lounge, the wellness center featured a state-of-the-art medical facility that offered individual health consultations, preventive medicine and medical checkups.

Professor Simonitsch, who remained involved in the direction of the property, together with Hugo Westreicher, his brother-in-law and managing director, went to great lengths to accommodate their guests. That once included reworking the angle of the garage entrance ramp to accommodate a low-to-the-ground chassis when Austrian owners of a legendary brand of Italian sports cars decided to hold their annual convention at the hotel. My own transportation needs were far more modest as I had opted for a train journey from Vienna. However, I was stunned to discover that at Grandhotel Lienz, a pre-arranged pickup at the train station actually meant that a bellman was standing on the platform to greet me and take control of my luggage. Throughout my stay, I was consistently delighted by the level of personalized service and thoughtful attention from the staff.

And I loved the elegant home-like atmosphere of the décor, “created by my wife, Elizabeth,” Professor Simonitsch mentioned with justified pride. Throughout the spacious, light-bathed common areas opening onto terraces that overlooked the river and the mountains, Elizabeth Simonitsch had designed opulent intimate spaces that were an invitation to linger, as was my suite. I was actually delighted that the winter weather was uncharacteristically inclement during my stay, which gave me a guilt-free excuse to spend long hours each day enjoying the many pleasures of the spa, then nestle in the oversize chaise by the wide glass doors of my sitting room to admire the surrounding alpine vistas.

While the area was rich in natural and historical resources within easy reach, I found Grandhotel Lienz a worthy destination onto itself. I will be keen to revisit it when my travels take me back to this lovely East Tyrol corner and when any European itinerary allows me to schedule an extensive detour.

Children Yes

Class Of Accommodation Five star luxury hotel

Connectivity There was complimentary high-speed WiFi in my suite.

General Manager Johannes Westreicher

Handicapped Access Yes

Length Of Stay Four nights

Location In the state of East-Tyrol, in southern Austria, at the crossroads of several European destinations. Salzburg, Austria, was 200 kilometers (125 miles) or a 2.5 hour-drive to the northwest; Munich, Germany, 225 kilometers (140 miles) or a three-hour drive to the west; Venice, Italy, 250 kilometers (155 miles) or a 3.25 hour-drive to the south, and Vienna, Austria, 450 kilometers (279 miles) or a 4.5 hour-drive to the east.

Managing Director Hugo Westreicher.

Owned and managed Grandhotel Lienz was owned jointly by the Simonitsch and Westreicher families.

Pets Allowed Yes

Size The five-story property had 76 rooms and suites

Year Opened-Renovated The property opened in May 2009

Lobby And Common Areas The central two-story entrance foyer and reception had a soaring vaulted ceiling, with an elaborate crystal and gilded metal chandelier hanging in the center of it. Under the chandelier, a circular glass table on a Corinthian column pedestal base held a display of tall amethyst geodes. The floor was of white and black marble. To the left of the foyer, against a backdrop of dark knotted pine panels, a long reception desk with a matching wood base and a thick beveled white marble top was outlined by an oriental carpet runner. Crystal table lamps with pleated silk shades stood at both ends of the reception desk. Against the front picture window, an identical table lamp rested on a round occasional table between two straight back, rolled-arm armchairs upholstered in red wool. At the rear of the foyer an overstuffed sofa covered in green, taupe and red plaid provided additional seating. To the right of the foyer, elevators and a broad staircase led to the upper floors.

A lounge occupied the rear end of the building. Its far wall was a series of glass double doors draped in striped emerald and ruby silk that opened onto a wide terrace overlooking the river. The walls were dark knotty pine paneling and white plaster. The floor was covered with crimson carpeting with gold design. Lighting was provided by tall brass candelabra style floor lamps with silk shades. Matching sconces hung on the walls, alternating with impressionist-style oil paintings in gilded frames. Multiple groupings of wingback chairs upholstered in crimson striped velvet and jade cotton brocade were gathered around rectangular coffee tables. A long oval bar surrounded by 10 high-back leather chairs occupied the left side of the room. At the opposite end of the lounge, a large cinnamon marble fireplace was topped by a rectangular mirror in a gilded frame. A coordinated 18 ^th century clock and a pair of candlesticks sat on the mantle.

Bathroom A large dressing area separated the bedroom from the master bathroom at the rear of the suite. It too could be closed with double pocket doors. The floors and walls of the bathroom were tiled in travertine marble, as were the glass enclosed walk-in shower and the face of the large oval bathtub. The long walnut vanity held two sinks set in a honey-colored marble counter top. Identical marble covered the ledge of the bathtub. There was a long rectangular mirror over the vanity, flanked by two sconces with silk shades. Next to the vanity a door opened onto a separate water closet with a commode and a bidet. In addition to the master bath, there was a guest bathroom next to the entrance door to the living room, with identical tile work, a single sink vanity and mirror matching that of the main bath, a commode and a glass-enclosed semi-circular walk-in shower.

Room My 78 square meter (840 square foot) Royal Suite, Number 218, was decorated in shades of taupe and amethyst with fuchsia and gold accents, and lush taupe wall-to-wall carpeting. Double sliding doors draped in heavy amethyst silk opened onto a long balcony with a glorious view of the river and the mountains. The sitting room had a long rolled-arm sofa upholstered in taupe suede with amethyst silk toss pillows. It faced two wingback chairs covered in coordinated purple and taupe striped silk, across from a rectangular walnut coffee table holding a fruit bowl and a vase filled with bright yellow lilies. A chaise covered in matching striped silk and gold brocade sat next to the sliding doors opening onto the balcony. It faced a large LCD television screen raised on a brushed-steel pedestal. Additional sitting room furniture included a writing desk with a high back chair, a credenza holding a coffee service, and a bookcase with an assortment of reading material in several European languages. Two large square oil paintings of purple flower close-ups in gilded frames completed the décor.

In the bedroom, the king-size bed headboard was covered in gold damask. On both sides of the bed, small chests of drawers served as bedside tables. They held glass-based reading lamps with pleated silk shades. A long bench outlined the foot of the bed. It was covered in amethyst plaid silk similar to the upholstery of a wingback chair that stood in the front corner of the room. A small LCD television screen hung on the wall above the chair. The bedroom could be closed off from the living room by extra-wide walnut pocket doors. A similar set of pocket doors separated the bedroom from the dressing area and bathroom.

Food And Restaurants Meals were superb at the Grandhotel Lienz, beautifully prepared, artfully presented and unfailingly delicious. The breakfast buffet was a copious combination of local charcuteries, assorted smoked fish and cheeses, and an irresistible display of fresh-out-of-the-oven breads and viennoiseries . There were also fresh fruit salads and compotes, and a vast array of yogurts, muesli and other healthful choices. Eggs and hot breakfast meats were prepared to order.

Dinner was not merely a meal at Grandhotel Lienz, it was a most enjoyable culinary experience. In addition to the à-la-carte dinner menu, Chef Christian Flashberger surprised his guests each evening with a different degustation menu that lent a new meaning to the phrase “what’s for dinner tonight?” The cuisine was contemporary continental with strong Austrian influences. The night’s offering usually started with an imaginative amuse-bouche , followed by an elegant consommé or appetizer, choice of a meat or fish main course and another difficult choice of beautifully ripened local and European cheeses or decadent dessert. Both were offered, of course, but I usually assuaged any feeling of over-indulgence by passing on the cheese. There were five dining rooms, each with a different decorative theme and widely spaced tables, to ensure an intimate dining atmosphere. The menu was identical for all dining rooms. Guests had a reserved table for the duration of their stay. My table was in the Salon Fleur, a corner room with two glass walls draped in ruby silk overlooking the terrace and the mountains. Burgundy velvet dining armchairs surrounded the large square tables clad in crisp beige linens. At night subtle indirect lighting and candles filled the room with a romantic glow. The hotel also had a well-stocked wine cellar with a 150-label wine list of mainly Austrian and European wines. The wine cellar could be used for private dinners or wine-tastings.

Amenities Room amenities included a Nespresso machine and assorted coffee capsules, bottled sparkling water, a welcome fruit bowl, electronic safe, shoehorn, shoe brush and a tote bag to carry personal necessities to the spa. Bathroom amenities included bathrobes and slippers, magnifying mirror, hairdryer, bathroom scale, facial tissues, cotton balls and swabs, nail file, shower cap and a dispenser of Bogner hand cream. Toiletries were Thé Blanc by Bvlgari in individual sizes of hand-milled soap, hair wash and conditioner, body wash and moisturizer, and aftershave moisturizer.

Facilities There was a restaurant with five separate dining rooms served by a common kitchen, a lounge and bar, wine cellar, spa, medical wellness center, conference facility and a basic business center.

Fitness Center And Spa The stunning 1,400 square meter (15,000 square foot) spa was a superb retreat distributed over two levels, connected by stairs and an elevator. Under the expert direction of Anita Obersteiner, the facility included six treatment rooms where a staff of four licensed and highly experienced therapists blended the best practices of various international massage schools to develop the treatment best suited to a client’s specific needs and preferences. I especially enjoyed my rejuvenating Gold of the Dolomites new moon herbal peel and oil massage. The oils used for this treatment were custom-blended with alpine herbs handpicked locally. The formula varied with the phases of the moon to maximize the energetic effectiveness of the process and for a unique aromatherapy experience.

The lower level of the spa offered several variations of heat therapy to suit guest preferences. In addition the traditional steam room (with herb-scented steam) there was also a salt steam room with a briny, ocean feel. There were two sauna options as well, the classic dry Finnish 90-degree Celsius version and a cooler 60-degree “bio-sauna” with a touch of hydration. The inviting main relaxation room featured a central flower arrangement encircled by rattan lounge chairs. There were also cozy nooks with comfortable armchairs and chaises along the hallways and off the entrance foyer with its buffet of organic herbal teas and dry fruit and nut snacks.

In addition to the spa, the on-site medical facility under the direction of Peter Lechleitner, M.D. offered a variety of medical check-ups and preventive medical consultations. Individually targeted therapies were available that combined scientific Western medicine with traditional Chinese medicine, acupuncture and homeopathy.

Pool The 6 meter by 12 meter (20 foot by 40 foot) indoor pool was set in a wide natural stone terrace surrounded on three sides by glass walls that made the most of the serene mountain views. The front wall featured an electric sliding partition that connected the indoor pool to the large exterior heated whirlpool. Comfortable dark rattan lounge chairs were lined around the interior terrace and tall potted tropical trees marked the corners of the pool. In the small entrance foyer leading into the pool area, tall wall shelves held generous stacks of oversized white bath towels.

Conference Facilities The property had a self-contained conference facility with its own entrance, reception foyer and flexible space equipped with modern audiovisual and communication technologies. The conference space could accommodate up to 80 people, or be divided with soundproof air walls into three breakout rooms.

Other Grandhotel Lienz was one of the earliest adopters of eco-friendly practices for hospitality properties in Austria. The property was heated through a heat exchange process with a large nearby underground lake. Hot water was solar-heated. Starting with the construction process, special attention was given to insulation and use of energy-saving devices throughout the entire building so that the property did not use any gas or oil as energy sources. Trash was rigorously recycled, and kitchen waste prepared for bio repurposing.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review February 2011

Reviewers Article and photos by Josette King

Service The suite was serviced twice daily. It was fully refreshed during the evening turndown service. Every member of the staff with whom I came in contact was friendly and efficient. The dining room staff was outstanding. The maitre d’hôtel and servers were unfailingly attentive, and remembered every detail of my preferences.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression In 1857, Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria decreed the demolition of the obsolete 13 ^th century walls that surrounded the city of Vienna. In their place a broad boulevard, the Ringstrasse, or simply the Ring as it is now most often called, was laid out to circle the city. It was then lined with splendid public and private buildings intended to showcase the glory of the Habsburg Empire. The Ring Hotel was part of this grand urban renewal undertaking: a residential hotel that provided bachelors of the Viennese aristocracy with in-town pieds-à-terre at the very edge of the vibrant inner city. The building experienced varied fortunes through the ensuing century and a half, going from bank headquarters to just another vacant building, before being meticulously restored a few years ago to its original purpose of elegant home-away-from-home hospitality. After 13 months of extensive reconstruction, The Ring Hotel reopened in November 2007 as an intimate luxury property just a few minutes’ walk from most of the cultural and artistic treasures Vienna has to offer.

In addition to its exceptional location overlooking the broad expanse of the Ring, with world-class culture and miles of fashionable shopping on its doorstep, what I appreciated most about the property was the exquisite comfort of my spacious room, which gave me an immediate sense of homecoming. Its subtle contemporary décor had the uncluttered atmosphere of a modern city apartment where no detail had been overlooked to ensure a pleasant stay. Large French windows filled the room with light while their triple glazing cut out any street sounds. Complimentary WiFi service was fast and password-secured. A Nespresso machine came with a choice of coffee capsules. An oversized wall-hung LCD television featured a broad spectrum of international channels as well as movies and music on demand. And the dressing area was designed to neatly hold an entire travel wardrobe.

The heath club was equally inviting. Located at the top the building, it offered a spectacular view of the rooftops of Vienna as well as top-of-the-line exercise equipment. Even the sauna had a view! But for all the luxurious creature comforts, relaxed atmosphere and outstanding location of the Hotel, its trump card was ultimately the staff; a team of attentive professionals who unfailingly delivered personalized service from the moment I checked in. It was this winning combination of exceptional accommodations and gracious service that propelled The Ring Hotel to the top of my list of properties to revisit whenever business or pleasure takes me back to Vienna.

Children Welcome Yes

Class Of Accommodation Luxury boutique hotel

Connectivity There was complimentary high-speed WiFi in my room.

General Manager Karl-Peter Echtermeijer

Handicapped Access Yes

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location On the historic Ringstrasse , at the edge of the inner city. It was a 30-minute drive from Vienna International Airport.

Owned-Managed JJW Hotels and Resorts, Limited, an international private company of Sheikh Mohamed Bin Issa Al Jaber. The managing director was Karim Jalloul.

Pets Allowed Yes. There were special packages for dog owners that included dog baskets (with turn-down service) and various pet treats.

Size The five-story property had 68 rooms and suites.

Year Opened-Renovated The Ring Hotel opened in November 2007 following a complete 13-month reconstruction.

Lobby And Common Areas Beyond the classic 19 ^th century façade, the décor of the lobby harmoniously blended touches of the old, including the historic “birdcage” elevator, into what was a decidedly modern environment. The walls were a mix of exotic wood paneling and cream plaster. The floor was tiled in oversized slabs of pale ceramic. The reception desk was set in a long alcove in the rear wall, its base beveled mirror squares topped with a dark gray marble counter. To the right of the entrance hall, two long sofas upholstered in cerulean blue velvet with cream bolsters faced each other across a rectangular pedestal coffee table made of exotic wood matching that of the wall paneling. Two black leather and wood armchairs completed the grouping, which sat on a dark grey wool rug. At the back of each sofa, a black wood credenza held an assortment of international daily newspaper and a tall glass cylinder with a minimalist arrangement of calla lilies. Cut crystal globe table lamps sat on matching side tables.

Quirky details livened up the lounge area to give it the cozy feel of a living room. The wall that separated the lounge from the bar at the front of the building held a niche with a low bottom-lit display case that housed a procession of white marble rhinos. The top part of the wall was mirrored to reflect a row of tall glass bud vases, each holding a single African daisy. Meanwhile at the far end of the lounge, a heavily carved and gilded rococo worktable with a green marble top held a slick desktop computer and printer for guests use. The desk chair was a 19 ^th century gilded barrel chair with grey cut velvet inlays. Two contemporary slipper chairs covered in cream velvet provided additional seating. On the paneled wall behind them, a series of randomly hung display boxes held an assortment of perfume bottles, leather clutches, stationery and other small luxury goods.

Bathroom A small foyer led from the front door into the bedroom. To the left of the foyer, a door opened onto a water closet with a commode and bidet. The bathroom was to the right of the foyer, its walls and floor tiled in taupe ceramic. Two rectangular washbowls sat on the black ceramic top of a long chrome and wood vanity. Two tall mirrors bracketed by thin fluorescent strips hung above the washbowls. The deep bathtub had a glass-enclosed in-tub shower with a ceiling rain showerhead. There was a towel rack with bath towels on the wall at the foot of the tub, with an additional supply of bath and hand towels stored under the vanity counter. There was underfloor heating in the bathroom and water closet.

Room I once heard a noted American interior designer declare: “an apartment is like a second skin. If it feels like a cashmere sweater, then it’s right.” My 50 square meter (538 square foot) X-ordinary Room, Number 402, definitely felt like a favorite cashmere sweater; a home where I looked forward to return after a day of roaming the historic palaces and museums of Vienna. While its soaring ceiling and tall French windows were a reminder of the building’s 19 ^th century origins, the interior design was resolutely modern, in a relaxing palette of browns and creams, enhanced with a touch of paprika in the rich floor to ceiling draperies. Textured cappuccino carpeting covered the floor, in lush contrast with the creamy plastered wall and white, corniced ceiling. Furniture was made of dark exotic wood with clean contemporary lines, including a long room divider that created a storage and dressing area between the interior wall and the remainder of the bedroom.

Furniture included a rectangular Parsons desk and matching square dining table. The seat and oval medallion backs of the desk and dining chairs were upholstered in taupe suede as were the headboard of the king size bed and the seat of the long bench that outlined the foot of the bed. A pair of straight back armchairs covered in cappuccino tweed stood in front of one of the windows, a small round gold-leafed pedestal table between them. The wall sconces, bedside, desk and floor lamps had gilded metal bases and cream parchment shades. A large LCD television screen hung above the desk. Framed etchings of music composers and instruments hung in a square pattern above the bed.

Food And Restaurants To the right of the entrance lobby, the hotel bar, “Drings”, was a trendy after-work gathering place for local and international patrons, and the pre- and post-performance crowd from the nearby State Opera and other performing arts venues. In addition to serving the usual bar beverages and casual snacks, it offered more than twenty different brands of vodka.

To the left of the lobby, the restaurant, “at eight,” had a dual personality. The cozy L-shaped dining room could seat up to 50 guests at well-spaced rectangular tables. For breakfast and lunch, the atmosphere was casual. Natural light streamed through the long bay windows overlooking a busy corner of the Ring. The teakwood chairs were upholstered in celadon green, the tables set with color-coordinated table runners and napkins. At night, the room turned on its glamorous charm with silky amethyst shades drawn across the windows and the chairs dressed-up with ruby and amethyst covers. The tables were set with white linen mats and napkins, and the subdued lighting was complemented by the soft glow of jewel tone Murano votive candleholders for a deliciously romantic atmosphere. What remained constant however, what the quality of the food and service.

Breakfast could be as simple or sumptuous as individual appetite and taste dictated. A buffet of cold staple breakfast fare, such as freshly baked breads and Viennoiseries, and trays of tempting charcuteries , cut fruits, yoghurt and granolas was complemented by a full menu of breakfast dishes cooked to order. In the evening, “at eight” dished out daring and beautifully executed combinations, such as pike confit with apple black pudding and polenta, or lobster with pickled veal tongue ravioli, served with unexpected combinations of fresh herbs and exotic spices. The imaginative cuisine has already earned “at eight” two toques from Gault Millau (one of Europe’s most prestigious culinary awards) in the past two years.

Amenities Room amenities included a Nespresso machine with an assortment of coffee capsules, bottled mineral water, small welcome fruit basket and two boxed local pastries, electronic safe, shoehorn and shoe polish sponge. Bathroom amenities included bathrobes and slippers, magnifying mirror, hairdryer, bathroom scale, facial tissues, cotton balls and swabs, dental floss, nail file, comb, and shower cap. Hand-milled facial and bath soap, hair wash and conditioner, shower gel and body lotion were by Molton Brown.

Facilities There was a restaurant, “at eight”, bar, “Drings”, a fitness center, a spa, and a basic business center.

Fitness Center And Spa A fitness center and spa were located on the top floor. The health club was appointed with state-of-the-art fitness equipment, including treadmills with individual television screens and headsets to keep entertained while working out. It also had a sauna and steam room. All facilities were complimentary for in-house guests.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review February 2011

Reviewers Article and photos by Josette King

Service The room was serviced twice daily. Every member of the staff I came in contact with during my stay was thoughtful and attentive, noticed preferences and followed through on requests to deliver exceptional personalized service.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes