Overall Impression My favorite memories of the Montpelier Plantation and Beach in Nevis, of Nevis and Saint Kitts, include the early morning nature sounds of dogs barking, donkeys braying, and doves cooing in the distance. I enjoyed them most while swimming or when I gazed at the sunrise views of Saddle Hill and the ocean from the covered porch behind my room. At that hour, when the rays of the sun were gentle, before many guests had risen from their beds and the staff had arrived, I had the entire pool area to myself.

Another favorite experience was at the hotel beach. On a Monday at 10 a.m., I was the sole passenger aboard the van that transported guests beachside once a day on a complimentary basis. Following a leisurely drive, we arrived at the 363 foot long hotel beach within three acres of land where I enjoyed the ultimate indulgence as I was the only guest. It was with regret that I departed for a late lunch (there was no food service at the beach although the hotel restaurant offered a picnic lunch), after spending several memorable hours lounging under the ample shade of a large tree, walking along the short stretch of soft white sand, swimming in the gentle surf and the pristine crystal blue water, and wallowing in the luxury of my own private beach, at least for a short while.

I also remember breakfast fondly. Gentle hilltop breezes kept the temperature pleasant and friendly staff made me feel welcome. From my seat in a shady spot of the open air dining room I had a front row view of the historic former sugar mill and adjacent garden and terrace. It was the perfect time to catch up with guests I had met the day before, read the news on my tablet or savor the quiet, and linger while enjoying delicious fruit, homemade pastries and jams and made to order hot dishes.

I enjoyed the Montpelier Plantation and Beach’s serenity and hillside setting, understated service, foodie orientation including locally sourced menu items, comfortable and spotless room with sea view, and facilities, especially the swimming pool and beach.

Children The hotel welcomed children six years and older. There were no children onsite during my visit. According to the materials in my room, adults were asked to accompany children under 12. I only saw couples while I was at the hotel. The property was meant to be a place of quiet and relaxation where noise should be kept down, and it was.

Class Of Accommodation A four star boutique hotel

Concierge Jackie Morgan

Connectivity Reliable WiFi spots on property were hard to come by during my stay. There was a computer at reception for guest use.

General Manager Timothy Hoffman

Handicapped Access None

Length Of Stay Five nights

Location The hotel was 10 miles from Charlestown, the largest town on the island.

Owned And Managed Muffin, Timothy and Meredith Hoffman

Pets Allowed No. There was an onsite mascot, Ziggy who visited with guests frequently.

Property Managers Jesus Martinez and Pilar Peral

Size The hotel had 19 rooms spread into several buildings, most within a pebble’s throw of each other, in a 60 acre estate. There were 60 employees.

Year Opened-Renovated In 1960, James Milnes Gaskell purchased the estate with the dream of converting the historic ruin into a hotel. In 2002, the Hoffman Family bought Montpelier and began upgrading the property. The most recent work was in the summer of 2014 when six Plantation Rooms were renovated.

Lobby And Common Areas The hotel decor was contemporary designed to highlight the property’s historic features in a “where history meets modern chic” style. There was contemporary art peppered around the buildings. The hotel provided gallery space for Kirk Mechar, a Canadian national who painted in Nevis. “A blaze of soft or strong colors, a unification of patterns and lines” characterized his abstract paintings. The property was located behind metal gates that remained open during the day. The first building, which housed the reception desk, was to the left of the entrance. In front of the entrance there was a beautiful tall tree and behind it an open air structure that housed indoor and terrace sitting areas and the restaurants. To the left, was the former sugar mill, which thanks to its good condition, served as a private dining area or the property’s third restaurant. A small garden and the pool were adjacent to it.

Bathroom Because there was no air conditioning in the bathroom it was always somewhat warm and humid, even after sundown. There was non skid gray tile on the floor and walls and small rectangular slate gray tile on the vanity base. Above the sink there was a large framed rectangular mirror with white light. The most notable feature of the bathroom was its doorless shower with rain showerhead. Spray from the shower spread across most of the bathroom, making it necessary to place a floor mat at the entrance to keep from tracking water into the bedroom after showering.

Room Room 5, my 540 square foot Plantation Room, was steps away from the pool and restaurants down a narrow path. Because the room was very near the path to some of the other rooms and near the service areas I could hear staff and guests walking around and talking. There was a fishbowl effect that make it necessary to close the curtains nearest the path anytime I was in the room if I wanted any privacy. For example, Sunday morning before 8 a.m. there was a gardner near my window who, but for the curtains, would have easily seen me sitting in bed through the windows.

Room 5 was one of two rooms in a stand alone building. It had a high wood ceiling with a fan lamp hanging from the middle. White was the predominant color on the ceiling, walls, closet doors and furnishings. White ceramic tile with gray streaks covered the floor. Two double beds were set against the wall on the left side of the room, each one with a matching white night table and night lamp. There was a telephone on one of the night tables. Identical square shaped contemporary wood art hung above each bed. The beds had four fluffy feather pillows each, a thin white cotton bedcover and a folded over white blanket at the foot of each bed. The mattresses were of medium softness. Two identical armchairs with blue and green patterned cushions took up the middle of the room. They faced each other and a white oval table with a flower arrangement.

On the other side of the room, there was a full length mirror hanging on the wall nearest the entrance. The bathroom door was next followed by two closets. The first one had an ironing board and many wood hangers. The second one housed a mini refrigerator with beverages and snacks for sale. There was also a hot beverage service with two cups and saucers, several types of tea and instant coffee and a hot water pitcher. There was also a pitcher filled with water and glasses. There was an electronic safe and a blow dryer. Above them there were shelves and one drawer. Between the closets there was a vanity with a glass top surface and an armless chair facing a rectangular mirror. Blue curtains covered the jalousie windows which had mesh screen to keep insects out. A wall mounted remote control air conditioner above one of the beds cooled the room. Because it was on the corner nearest the entrance most of the cool air hit the first double bed. Despite the air conditioner it was humid in the bedroom. A single door led to a small porch facing a shared garden, the lush green of a hill and the ocean. Twin wood armless chairs with white cushions and a small table in between filled up the terrazzo tiled porch.

On offer in the mini bar there were two half liter plastic bottles of Montepelier water (50 cents of each purchase was donated to fighting cancer in Nevis), Coca Cola, Diet Coke, Spring, Ting (a grapefruit soft drink), Carib beer, Henri Bourgois Sancerre Burgundy wine half bottle, Bouchard Pere & Fils Pinot Noir, a 1.3 ounce can of Pringles, M&M Peanuts and a Snickers bar.

Food And Restaurants The hotel offered a blend of French and Caribbean style cuisine with an emphasis on fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Food and beverage services were overseen by Stéphane Caumont, the French executive chef trained in classic French cooking.

Breakfast was served between 8 a.m. and 10:30 a.m, lunch between 12 noon and 2:30 p.m., tea between 3 p.m and 5 p.m., and dinner between 7:30 p.m. and 9 p.m. There were eleven items available through room service at meal times. A twelve percent gratuity was automatically added to the bill.

At breakfast there was a cold self service buffet and a hot a la carte menu with eggs, French toast, pancakes, sausage, and applewood bacon. At the buffet there were whole bananas, sliced fruit (watermelon, cantaloupe, honeydew, grapefruit, pineapple), two types of juice, orange and passion fruit, several types of cereal, dried fruit, nuts, and three types of homemade jam: strawberry, marmalade, and lemon curd. There were homemade breads including mini pain au chocolate and mini raisin rolls.

The French toast dish came with one thick piece of bread sliced in half. It was moist and served with cinnamon, and sugar syrup. The wilted spinach arrived still warm and tasted of olive oil. The applewood smoked bacon was crispy and tasty. The hot chocolate was mainly milk with hardly any chocolate flavor. I enjoyed one of the organic teas (a supplementary fee applied) although they were not on display every day. Ziggy the property dog came by at breakfast when guests would pet him. He was a pleasant presence although when he got close he was smelly. Leslie in the dining room remembered my name (and other guests’) when she greeted me. Since my return home required many hours of travel and I had to leave before the dining room was open for breakfast, I requested something to go. The kitchen staff kindly prepared a box for me, including a delicious fresh made vegetable wrap.

The three dining venues and three bars, all open air, were: Restaurant 750, Indigo and Mill Privée, the Great Room bars, Pool Bar, and Montpelier Beach Bar.

Restaurant 750 served “light and modern cuisine perfected through the use of local ingredients, herbs and spices.” From the covered terrace there were views of the lights of Charlestown and Saint Kitts. I sampled the four course tasting menu, which changed daily, the night of my arrival. Indigo, closed for lunch during most of my stay, offered casual island dining, “high end services and sophisticated style” with fine wines, rare rums, cigars and cocktails. A private five course dinner was available at Mill Privée in the hotel’s 300 year old sugar mill, said to be the only restaurant of its kind in the world. Evening cocktails and canapés were served in the Great Room in the Main House.

Prior to working at the hotel, Chef Caumont was chef de partie at the Grand Hyatt Dubai. Before that, he worked at the Hyatt Regency London The Churchill, the Park Hyatt Sydney, Australia, and was chef de cuisine at the French Embassy in Bamako, Mali.

The property had its own garden for organic herbs (mint, basil, oregano, thyme) and a few vegetables. Staff made homemade jams, yoghurt, pasta, and bread. The hotel had a wine cellar and a broad selection of aged rums.

Amenities There were 300 milliliter containers of Elemis body lotion, body gel, shampoo and conditioner, and Elemis vanity kits (sewing, shoe shine, cotton swabs and make up remover pads), cotton bathrobes, electronic safe, fresh water, coffee and tea service, hairdryer, iron, iron board and full length mirror. The staff selected the British Elemis brand because of its natural products made with organic extracts.

Beach I spent a blissful few hours at the beach. It was one of two favorite areas of the property. Hotel guests had access to a 363 foot private beach within three acres. It had a handful of small beach cabanas, lounge chairs, one unisex bathroom with a changing room, toilet and sink (no shower), and a main area with sitting space and a staffed corner bar. Most of the land where the hotel structures were located was grassy. A pretty white beach was sandwiched between that section and large grouping of rocks on both sides. It was easy to enter and there was a mild surf the day I was there.

The hotel offered a complimentary van transfer to the beach and back once a day. Departure was scheduled at 10 a.m. and return at 4 p.m. There was no towel or meal service at the beach. If I wanted to eat while at the beach and didn’t drive I had to request a picnic lunch in advance. It was necessary to take pool towels to the beach and bring them back on my return. Because I was the only guest the Monday I went I could choose the time of my return. The beach area was blissfully quiet, the only sounds were of the surf and the Caribbean breeze urging me to relax.

Facilities A tennis court (open from 9 a.m. until dusk), library/TV room, three restaurants, private beach, and pool.

Pool The pool area was my favorite spot at the property, especially in the early morning when I had it to myself and it was quiet (during the day, there was sometimes music in the background). The pool itself was clean and attractive. It was 60 feet long and 20 feet wide, large enough to swim laps comfortably. It varied in depth between three and 12 feet. There were 16 loungers in the sunny pool deck and two tables, seating four each, with umbrellas. The pool area had a shady section with four loveseats and four cushioned lounge chairs under a wide awning. The pool bar was adjacent to the pool and the hotel restaurants were nearby. The historic sugar mill, a small garden and the pool restrooms were to one side. The staff were friendly and attentive. One of them brought me an unsolicited yet welcome glass of ice water when I settled down in a lounge chair one morning.

Spa Treatments were available in a spa treatment room. Following my visit the hotel had added treatments in an outdoor area.

Other The hotel was a member of the Relais & Chateaux international association. Information in my room requested guests maintain their rooms smoke free although smoking was allowed on the verandahs. A note on the bathroom sink indicated unless guests requested otherwise sheets were washed every three days, and hanging up the towels meant they didn’t need to be washed. The laundry service was efficient. It only required a day for my laundry to return, on a hanger. There was a small gift shop, Sugar Shop, behind reception with a few islands crafts, souvenirs and polo shirts.

The staff relied on fruits and vegetables predominantly supplied by local farmers, selecting producers using organic methods and sustainable agricultural practices. The property had a policy to support the local community while providing guests with high quality products.

Restaurant remains were saved and collected by the local farmers to feed their animals. The property used paper products with a high recycled content and recycled a large portion of printed material. In the laundry, staff used organic detergents (Ecolab) and water saving methods such as rain water.

There were two cisterns to collect rainwater for use in the laundry and the gardens. There was an automatic lighting system to save energy during the day. To avoid the usage of small plastic bottles and reduce wasteful packaging, the property used dispenser style bottles for bath products in the rooms and for other consumables.

For toiletries the company selected Elemis in part because the brand “does not test on animals and respects the environment.” The hotel encouraged guests to support its effort to be green, placing “green cards” in all rooms concerning the daily changing of towels and sheets.

The property was recognized in the following: Top 20 hotels in the Americas and Caribbean, Reader’s Travel Awards, Condé Nast Traveller 2014; Best Hotels in the Caribbean & Atlantic, Readers’ Choice Awards, Condé Nast Traveller 2014; AAA Four Diamond Hotel Award, 2005 to 2014; AAA Four Diamond Restaurant Award, Restaurant 750, 2005 to 2014; World Travel Awards, Saint Kitts & Nevis’ Leading Hotel, 2013; Certificate of Excellence Award, Trip Advisor from 2012 to 2014; World’s Top 100, Reader’s Travel Awards; and Condé Nast Traveller UK 2012

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review November 2014

Reviewers Article and Photos by Elena del Valle

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression A last minute addition to my itinerary in Nevis turned into an unexpected delight at the lush and lovingly maintained The Botanical Gardens of Nevis. The 6.1 acre property in a residential area of the small Caribbean island housed plant nurseries, fruit orchards, Orchid Terraces, a Rainforest Conservatory modeled after the Palm House of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew as well as Cactus, Palm, and Bamboo gardens. The private estate was open to the public for daytime visits and special events.

From the second floor of the West Indian Great House replica building in the heart of the Gardens there was a splendid view. Toward one side, I saw the green landscape of Nevis dotted with the white tips of island houses and beyond it the sea. When I turned, I had a pretty view of Mount Nevis with a crown of clouds in the background, behind the Conservatory.

There were birds, bees and butterfly residents, my friendly tour guide explained when I stopped to admire a bird resting on an unfamiliar tree. There were three parrots in residence as well as house dogs Tango, ChaCha, and Snoopy. They helped protect the plants and fruit trees from the overabundant island monkeys.

Water fountains, manmade “rivers and lagoons” and Asian sculptures peppered whimsically throughout the gardens added an artistic and exotic touch to the experience. At the end, I was surprised to discover a well stocked gift shop, filled with local and international souvenirs, especially Asian products and crafts. If I happen to return to Nevis I look forward to another visit to the gardens.

Average Duration Of Visit One to two hours

Description The property was home to six acres of foliage including tropical plants from Australia, South Africa, Malaysia, Thailand, Central and South America, and the United States, including Hawaii. Staff at the attraction believed it was home to one of the Caribbean’s largest collections of palms and orchids. It had 70 species of orchid, 100 varieties of palms, bamboo, cactus and vine gardens, fruit orchards and a Kew style rainforest conservatory. There was a large pre Columbian Olmec head replica forming a waterfall alongside Olmec and Mayan motif designs.

There were water features and also a collection of Asian sculptures scattered throughout the gardens. There were herbs, shaving bush trees, calabash, sausage tree, shower trees, ficus trees, bamboo trees, ginger, bromeliads, topiaries, calico vine flowers, papyrus reeds in the Lily Pool, cacti, aloe, succulents, arid shrubs, jasmine, and gardenia. Fruit plants included golden apple, West Indian cherries, guava, and mango. Among the palms there were Bismark, West Indian royal, and red stem lipstick varieties.

Established It opened to the public in 1998. In 2007, the Douglas Family purchased and improved the property.

Handicapped Access Most areas of the Gardens were accessible to wheelchairs, according to a staff person.

Location The gardens were two miles from Charlestown.

Number Of Employees 15

Owned And Managed Douglas Enterprises Inc., a private enterprise subsidized by the property owners.

Size The 6.1 acre property housed one two story West Indian Great House replica building centrally located within the gardens and open to the public .

Were Children Welcome? Yes

Restaurant The Oasis Thai Restaurant, a 75 seat eatery serving Thai cuisine and Western dishes as well, was on the second floor of the West Indian Great House replica building. The cook was from Thailand. The staff grew some vegetables, most of their own herbs and spices, and ingredients used in Thai cuisine such as chilies and basil.

Souvenir Shop The Galleria Gift Shop sold prints and artworks by local artists, clothing, jewelry, handicrafts, souvenirs and decorative items sourced locally and internationally.

Tours Yes

Other The property restaurant recycled used bottles. In addition to mulching cut branches and trees the gardens had a waste composting system. In January 2012, the property was named Most Popular Attraction by the Nevis Island Administration, Ministry of Tourism.

Month And Date Of Visit November 2014

Reviewers Article and Photos by Elena del Valle

Would You Visit This Attraction Again Yes

Overall Impression Unlike many Caribbean destinations, Nevis, a 36 square mile corner of serenity in the country of Saint Kitts and Nevis in the Leeward Islands, housed no duty free shopping boutiques (nor much shopping to speak of), casinos or fast food eateries. Only small cruise ships visited its shores. Its 12,400 residents share their homeland with 30,000 annual visitors who find refuge from the fast pace of their lives in the island’s three luxury hotels and sixty luxury rental homes, most of which are inland.

Nevis catered to savvy travelers, who once they found their way there, seemed to appreciate the tranquil rural setting with more wild monkeys and donkeys than people, and without a single traffic light or any congestion on its 22 miles of road. During my low season visit, the charm in Nevis was as much for what it lacked as for its unspoiled natural beauty, eleven beaches (including a little known volcanic black sand beach), low crime, varied dining venues (the tiny island was home to 40 local and international restaurants), and easy going slow pace.

While reaching the island required time, effort and patience the rewards far outweighed the challenge for those seeking comfortable seclusion in a tropical setting. Signs of growth were in evidence in several new construction projects. I would advise my friends wishing to experience the placid side of Nevis to visit sooner rather than later.

Cost Of Visiting Moderate to high

Currency Eastern Caribbean dollars were the national currency although United States dollars were widely accepted.

Electrical Current Most hotels and homes ran on 110 volts although 220 volts plugs were sometimes available.

Health And Vaccinations There was one hospital, Alexandra Hospital, with an emergency room. For diving accidents patients were sent to Saint Eustatia or Saba.

Location The island, part of the Leeward Islands, is at a latitude of 17.15 degrees north and a longitude of 62.58 degrees west.

Measures Nevis primarily used imperial units of measure such as inches, feet, yards and miles (as opposed to kilometers, meters and centimeters), pounds and ounces (rather than kilograms) and gallons and fluid ounces (as opposed to liters). However, most temperature references were in Celsius rather than Fahrenheit.

Money Issues There were nine automatic teller machines (ATMs) and international credit cards were widely accepted. There were also six banks, including two international banks, Bank of Nova Scotia and First Caribbean CIBC.

Technology Communication and modern conveniences were common at luxury properties, although internet connectivity was uneven in places. One four star property had no television onsite.

Time Although Nevis was on Eastern Standard Time, islanders did not adjust their clocks for daylight savings. The island was four hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (five hours behind during daylight saving time in the spring and summer)

Transportation The best way to see Nevis was to rent a car.

How To Get There Reaching Nevis was an exercise in perseverance, patience and determination. Although there were connections from nearby islands, there were no direct flights to Nevis from the United States or Europe. For many connections, it was necessary to reach a large island like Puerto Rico or Saint Martin and catch a small airplane. The other alternative was to fly into Saint Kitts and from there take a ferry or a water taxi.

Facilities The Vance Amory International Airport had a 4006 foot runway that could accommodate evening flights, small aircraft and some private jets flying directly from the United States. Other facilities included Alexandra Hospital, a 400 seat Performing Arts Center, and the Drag Race Strip. There was a horse track with no starting gates. Although it was not manicured its claim to fame was that “no other race course in the world has a backdrop of blue sea and a dormant volcano.”

Shopping And Souvenirs Other than grocery stores, shopping on the island was limited mostly to souvenirs, tee shirts and branded clothing.

Tourism Highlights Part of of the allure of Nevis was that there were few must see places. History buffs might enjoy a walk in the New River Estate for a glimpse of the unpolished ruins of a former sugar mill plantation. For nature enthusiasts there were several guided hiking options including one to Mount Nevis, and easy to access hot springs. It was possible to enjoy a morning of sailing aboard a locally made catamaran or spend the day strolling in the lush and well maintained The Botanical Gardens of Nevis.

Other The name of the island, derived from the Spanish word for snow (nieve), dates back to Columbus’ landing in 1493. Because the cloud covered mountain in the center of the island, now called Mount Nevis, reminded him of snow capped mountains in Spain he called the island Nuestra Señora de Las Nieves, which means Our Lady of the Snows. Over the years, the name morphed into Nevis, pronounced Nee-vis.

There was a wind farm capable of generating up to 2.2 mega watts of power for NEVLEC (Nevis Electricity Company Ltd.). Plans were in place to develop geothermal resources on Nevis and to build a 10 mega watt power plant via Nevis Renewable Energy International LLC. In an effort to convert waste to energy a private company was enlisted to work with the Ministry of Health and the Solid Waste Management Authority for NEVLEC to distribute to its customers. Authorities expected the project to deal with solid waste while at the same time generating power for the electricity grid. There were also plans for a solar farm. Already a number of private home owners and businesses had solar energy devices installed as part of their energy mix.

Date Of Latest Visit November 2014

Reviewers Article and Photos by Elena del Valle

Would You Visit This Destination Again? Yes