Overall Impression One of my fondest memories of a recent visit to Providenciales in the Turks and Caicos Islands of the British West Indies is of long leisurely walks on the seemingly endless beach. From the Beach House in the Bight, an intimate 21 suite property with luxury amenities where I stayed, I could head east or west. My favorite time to walk was in the early morning as the sun was peeking out of the horizon. Because heading east meant facing away from the sun on the return to the hotel when the sun was brightest that was my first choice. Stormy weather arrived the day after I did, closing the beach for part of my stay. Despite the strong winds walking on the beach was still pleasant. The waves pounded the shore and the breeze pulled my hair away from my face while I made my way on the powdery sand, which was intensely white against the striking turquoise water. Along the way I watched the many hotels and occasionally small houses that peppered the beach and the early risers jogging and staking out their corner of beach for the day.

On my return, if the water was calm I went for a dip before heading to breakfast at the hotel restaurant, tucked between the pool and two of the property’s small buildings. I liked the restaurant’s open air setting and casual ambiance. When the sun became too hot and when the stormy weather arrived I took refuge in my spacious and comfortable two-bedroom suite with a side view of the pool in the foreground and the ocean in the far background.

The peaceful pretty beach was my favorite feature at the Beach House. I especially appreciated that there was a designated area on the beach with cushioned comfortable wood lounge chairs and an umbrella for my suite. I found it, one row removed from the shore, by searching for the wood stake with my suite name, Beachy, in the sand behind it. I also liked the intimate ambiance, relative quiet of the property location (compared to the building cluttered beach further east on Grace Bay), its lovingly tended gardens, tasty food (especially the chef’s tasting menu for dinner), and luxury amenities. The Beach House will be on my short list the next time I travel to Providenciales.

Children The property welcomed children of all ages. During my visit I counted 12 or more children, some young enough to wear diapers and need a highchair.

Class of Accommodation Boutique Resort

Connectivity There was complimentary high speed WiFi. On the first night, the speed was good enough to connect my VPN. On the second night, the connection was too slow for Skype, and on the third night the connection dropped all together.

General Manager Vianel Filpo

Handicapped Access No

Length of Stay Three nights

Location In the Bight next to Grace Bay

Owned and Managed Waterloo Investment Holdings Limited, a British Virgin Islands company registered at Craigmuir Chambers, Road Town, Tortola.

Pets Allowed No

Size The two acre property had 21 suites spread into a two story and a three story building and employed 50 staff.

Year Opened-Renovated A spokesperson estimated the hotel first opened in 2004. The most recent phased renovation began in 2012 and continued into 2015.

Lobby and Common Areas The hotel was designed to have a “Hamptons meets the Caribbean” decorative style. Dress was casual.

Bathroom My suite had two bathrooms, an en suite master and a hallway bathroom for the second bedroom. The master suite had a plastic bathtub and a shower curtain. I especially liked the doorless shower in the hallway bathroom.

Room Beachy, my two bedroom suite, was located on the top floor of a two story building adjacent from reception and next to the property parking lot. To reach it I walked on a paved path from the reception building to the first building, and up a flight of stairs. The outside door led directly to an open kitchen with an island in the middle. It had full size KitchenAid stainless steel refrigerator freezer, double sink, and KitchenAid Microwave oven as well as white wood cabinets, white tile counter tops and three cushioned rattan bar stools at the island. On the kitchen counter there were four glasses on top of coasters and a glass vase with a flower simple arrangement.

To the right of the kitchen there was a rattan dining room set with a round glass top table and four cushioned armchairs. To the right of the sitting area, there was a sectional carpet, cloth loveseat, gray rattan blue armless chair and two matching stools facing a cabinet on top of which stood a remote controlled flat screen LG television.

The suite was decorated in a casual contemporary style. The words “Where the rooms have no numbers” appeared on the bathroom walls and balcony cushions. It had central air conditioning, off white floor tile, high ceilings, white gauze curtains over most of the windows, partial ocean views from the interior and covered balcony and a partial pool view. There were minor signs of wear such as a stain on the upholstery, and rust on the vanity mirror in the master bathroom. In the master bedroom there were privacy blinds as well. The walls are painted pale blue. The temperature in the apartment was 78 degrees Fahrenheit most of the time. There were ceiling fans in the kitchen, living, and dining areas, and in each of the two bedrooms. Framed glass covered reproductions hung on the walls in the living room and dining room.

From the living room a small hallway led to the master bedroom with an en suite bathroom, a hallway bathroom and second bedroom with two single beds with a shared night table in the middle. The master bedroom, on the left, had a king bed, framed between identical night tables with lamps. The bed was cushy and comfortable with a medium firmness. It had for four synthetic pillows. There was a luggage stand and hanging and shelf space in the closet. For additional drawer space there was a dresser in the corner. The second bedroom was furnished with two twin beds, pale blue cloth futon, dresser with a Precision flatscreen tv, and upright light.

At different times of the day, from early in the morning into the evening I could hear a variety of loud sounds when sitting in my balcony. Some of the sounds could be heard in the master suite. They included mechanical noises, staff screaming, guest conversation from the pool area and music from the restaurant. Sounds carried within my building so that inside my suite I could sometimes hear guests knocking on or slamming doors or moving tables, entering their suites or speaking within neighboring suites.

Food and Restaurants Meals were available at set times. For breakfast there were two main options, a la carte and buffet. The buffet offered fruit and yogurt cups, sliced deli meats and cheeses, a variety of breads and sweet pastries, fruit salad, and a fruit bowl with several kinds of fruit including oranges, pears, kiwi, apples and bananas. I opted for the Salmon Bagel made with applewood smoked salmon, cream cheese, lemon zest, tartar sauce, and caper on a toasted bagel with a small arugula side salad. It was satisfying, if a touch salty for my taste. I especially liked the side salad. Weather permitting, lunch was available at the restaurant and beach side in a shaded dining area adjacent to the beach bar. I especially liked the fresh whole snapper dish served at lunch with yummy vegetables.

Cristian Rebelledo, executive chef, focused on “gourmet food without pretension” and offered a seven course tasting menu. Rebby Bucking was the assistant chef and Mayra Reyes was in charge of the wine selection. The night I dined there his seven course tasting menu (without hot spices at my request) consisted of: Veggie pickle cebiche and mushrooms served with 2014 Danzante pinot grigio from Italy, Tuna tartare with sesame seed lemsay (a favorite) dressing served with Matua non vintage pinot noir from New Zealand, Beef carpaccio served with 2013 Byron pinot noir from California, Conch chowder (a favorite) served with 2013 Muga Rioja from Spain, Sea bass Coin textures and veggies served with 2013 JJ Vincent Bourgne Blanc from France, Zen-Noh Waguy in dark sauce with veggies and figs servedwith a 2014 Josh cellar cabernet sauvignon from Napa Valley (USA), and Chocolate Fantasy served with a non vintage Deviation late harvest from California (not a favorite).

Amenities There were H2O Canadian toiletries such as 30 gram facial bar, 50 gram Black Sand Bath Bar, 37 milliliter plastic bottles of Sea Moss body lotion, Sea Marine shampoo and Sea Marine conditioner, and Sea Salt body wash. There were also mending kit, tissue, cotton swabs, vanity mirror, branded cotton bathrobes, and electronic safe. At turn down there were bite size sweet nibbles on two nights and a property postcard on another. In the kitchen, there were complimentary paper towels, a handful of organic tea bags from Allegro a Colorado company, house brand individual size plastic bottles of water and coffee. There was also a pitcher of tap water with sliced oranges in the refrigerator and individual size containers of coffee creamer. In a closet next to the kitchen there was an iron and an ironing board.

There was an ample supply of bright orange beach towels, complimentary use of pedal bikes and helmets, non motorized water sports equipment, and designated beach “pods” for each suite.

Beach The property faced a narrow stretch of pretty beach. It had comfortable sturdy wood lounge chairs with cushions and umbrellas, one set or pod per suite. There was a plentiful supply of towels. Buoys marked the unguarded beach. Once during my stay was there a staff person at the beach available to assist with the beach furniture or non motorized amenities including snorkel gear and fins. In the afternoon there was no shade anywhere within my pod, which had two lounge chairs and an umbrella. Because of the fixed location of the umbrella it was not possible to adjust it to provide shade to the adjacent lounge chairs. The lack of shade under the cloudless sky and burning sun made it difficult to enjoy the beach for more than a few minutes. For about half the time I was there the beach was unusable and not staffed due to choppy waters and gusty winds topping 20 miles per hour.

Facilities There was an outdoor swimming pool, Kitchen218 restaurant with service on the beach deck, Elevate Spa (a single treatment room), a fitness room, and a small room for cooking classes and meetings.

Fitness Center and Spa The workout room and spa rooms were adjacent. The workout room was open from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. It had a bathroom, free weights, and three electronic machines. The spa room had a treatment table and a manicure set up.

Pool Adjacent to the restaurant, there was a free form 40 feet by 20 feet infinity pool with an average depth of four feet. There were wood lounge chairs with umbrellas and cushions identical to the ones on the beach and additional plastic beach chairs. There was a plentiful supply of towels.

Other The property participated in an Earth Saver Program that offered guests the option to have their linen washed every third night instead of nightly, according to a card left on my bed.

Cleanliness Very Good

Date of Review April 2016

Reviewers

Photos and Article by Elena del Valle

Service The rooms were serviced twice daily. Most of the staff I met, with the exception of the beach personnel, were friendly and service oriented, starting with Hendrika at the reception desk when I arrived. Later Jessica and Maradonna also at the front desk, Andrea at breakfast and in the beach area shack, Dorothy and Francisco at the restaurant were pleasant and helpful. Charlie, one of the groundskeepers, went out of his way to answer a question I had asked one of his colleagues.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression My favorite memories of the Montpelier Plantation and Beach in Nevis, of Nevis and Saint Kitts, include the early morning nature sounds of dogs barking, donkeys braying, and doves cooing in the distance. I enjoyed them most while swimming or when I gazed at the sunrise views of Saddle Hill and the ocean from the covered porch behind my room. At that hour, when the rays of the sun were gentle, before many guests had risen from their beds and the staff had arrived, I had the entire pool area to myself.

Another favorite experience was at the hotel beach. On a Monday at 10 a.m., I was the sole passenger aboard the van that transported guests beachside once a day on a complimentary basis. Following a leisurely drive, we arrived at the 363 foot long hotel beach within three acres of land where I enjoyed the ultimate indulgence as I was the only guest. It was with regret that I departed for a late lunch (there was no food service at the beach although the hotel restaurant offered a picnic lunch), after spending several memorable hours lounging under the ample shade of a large tree, walking along the short stretch of soft white sand, swimming in the gentle surf and the pristine crystal blue water, and wallowing in the luxury of my own private beach, at least for a short while.

I also remember breakfast fondly. Gentle hilltop breezes kept the temperature pleasant and friendly staff made me feel welcome. From my seat in a shady spot of the open air dining room I had a front row view of the historic former sugar mill and adjacent garden and terrace. It was the perfect time to catch up with guests I had met the day before, read the news on my tablet or savor the quiet, and linger while enjoying delicious fruit, homemade pastries and jams and made to order hot dishes.

I enjoyed the Montpelier Plantation and Beach’s serenity and hillside setting, understated service, foodie orientation including locally sourced menu items, comfortable and spotless room with sea view, and facilities, especially the swimming pool and beach.

Children The hotel welcomed children six years and older. There were no children onsite during my visit. According to the materials in my room, adults were asked to accompany children under 12. I only saw couples while I was at the hotel. The property was meant to be a place of quiet and relaxation where noise should be kept down, and it was.

Class Of Accommodation A four star boutique hotel

Concierge Jackie Morgan

Connectivity Reliable WiFi spots on property were hard to come by during my stay. There was a computer at reception for guest use.

General Manager Timothy Hoffman

Handicapped Access None

Length Of Stay Five nights

Location The hotel was 10 miles from Charlestown, the largest town on the island.

Owned And Managed Muffin, Timothy and Meredith Hoffman

Pets Allowed No. There was an onsite mascot, Ziggy who visited with guests frequently.

Property Managers Jesus Martinez and Pilar Peral

Size The hotel had 19 rooms spread into several buildings, most within a pebble’s throw of each other, in a 60 acre estate. There were 60 employees.

Year Opened-Renovated In 1960, James Milnes Gaskell purchased the estate with the dream of converting the historic ruin into a hotel. In 2002, the Hoffman Family bought Montpelier and began upgrading the property. The most recent work was in the summer of 2014 when six Plantation Rooms were renovated.

Lobby And Common Areas The hotel decor was contemporary designed to highlight the property’s historic features in a “where history meets modern chic” style. There was contemporary art peppered around the buildings. The hotel provided gallery space for Kirk Mechar, a Canadian national who painted in Nevis. “A blaze of soft or strong colors, a unification of patterns and lines” characterized his abstract paintings. The property was located behind metal gates that remained open during the day. The first building, which housed the reception desk, was to the left of the entrance. In front of the entrance there was a beautiful tall tree and behind it an open air structure that housed indoor and terrace sitting areas and the restaurants. To the left, was the former sugar mill, which thanks to its good condition, served as a private dining area or the property’s third restaurant. A small garden and the pool were adjacent to it.

Bathroom Because there was no air conditioning in the bathroom it was always somewhat warm and humid, even after sundown. There was non skid gray tile on the floor and walls and small rectangular slate gray tile on the vanity base. Above the sink there was a large framed rectangular mirror with white light. The most notable feature of the bathroom was its doorless shower with rain showerhead. Spray from the shower spread across most of the bathroom, making it necessary to place a floor mat at the entrance to keep from tracking water into the bedroom after showering.

Room Room 5, my 540 square foot Plantation Room, was steps away from the pool and restaurants down a narrow path. Because the room was very near the path to some of the other rooms and near the service areas I could hear staff and guests walking around and talking. There was a fishbowl effect that make it necessary to close the curtains nearest the path anytime I was in the room if I wanted any privacy. For example, Sunday morning before 8 a.m. there was a gardner near my window who, but for the curtains, would have easily seen me sitting in bed through the windows.

Room 5 was one of two rooms in a stand alone building. It had a high wood ceiling with a fan lamp hanging from the middle. White was the predominant color on the ceiling, walls, closet doors and furnishings. White ceramic tile with gray streaks covered the floor. Two double beds were set against the wall on the left side of the room, each one with a matching white night table and night lamp. There was a telephone on one of the night tables. Identical square shaped contemporary wood art hung above each bed. The beds had four fluffy feather pillows each, a thin white cotton bedcover and a folded over white blanket at the foot of each bed. The mattresses were of medium softness. Two identical armchairs with blue and green patterned cushions took up the middle of the room. They faced each other and a white oval table with a flower arrangement.

On the other side of the room, there was a full length mirror hanging on the wall nearest the entrance. The bathroom door was next followed by two closets. The first one had an ironing board and many wood hangers. The second one housed a mini refrigerator with beverages and snacks for sale. There was also a hot beverage service with two cups and saucers, several types of tea and instant coffee and a hot water pitcher. There was also a pitcher filled with water and glasses. There was an electronic safe and a blow dryer. Above them there were shelves and one drawer. Between the closets there was a vanity with a glass top surface and an armless chair facing a rectangular mirror. Blue curtains covered the jalousie windows which had mesh screen to keep insects out. A wall mounted remote control air conditioner above one of the beds cooled the room. Because it was on the corner nearest the entrance most of the cool air hit the first double bed. Despite the air conditioner it was humid in the bedroom. A single door led to a small porch facing a shared garden, the lush green of a hill and the ocean. Twin wood armless chairs with white cushions and a small table in between filled up the terrazzo tiled porch.

On offer in the mini bar there were two half liter plastic bottles of Montepelier water (50 cents of each purchase was donated to fighting cancer in Nevis), Coca Cola, Diet Coke, Spring, Ting (a grapefruit soft drink), Carib beer, Henri Bourgois Sancerre Burgundy wine half bottle, Bouchard Pere & Fils Pinot Noir, a 1.3 ounce can of Pringles, M&M Peanuts and a Snickers bar.

Food And Restaurants The hotel offered a blend of French and Caribbean style cuisine with an emphasis on fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Food and beverage services were overseen by Stéphane Caumont, the French executive chef trained in classic French cooking.

Breakfast was served between 8 a.m. and 10:30 a.m, lunch between 12 noon and 2:30 p.m., tea between 3 p.m and 5 p.m., and dinner between 7:30 p.m. and 9 p.m. There were eleven items available through room service at meal times. A twelve percent gratuity was automatically added to the bill.

At breakfast there was a cold self service buffet and a hot a la carte menu with eggs, French toast, pancakes, sausage, and applewood bacon. At the buffet there were whole bananas, sliced fruit (watermelon, cantaloupe, honeydew, grapefruit, pineapple), two types of juice, orange and passion fruit, several types of cereal, dried fruit, nuts, and three types of homemade jam: strawberry, marmalade, and lemon curd. There were homemade breads including mini pain au chocolate and mini raisin rolls.

The French toast dish came with one thick piece of bread sliced in half. It was moist and served with cinnamon, and sugar syrup. The wilted spinach arrived still warm and tasted of olive oil. The applewood smoked bacon was crispy and tasty. The hot chocolate was mainly milk with hardly any chocolate flavor. I enjoyed one of the organic teas (a supplementary fee applied) although they were not on display every day. Ziggy the property dog came by at breakfast when guests would pet him. He was a pleasant presence although when he got close he was smelly. Leslie in the dining room remembered my name (and other guests’) when she greeted me. Since my return home required many hours of travel and I had to leave before the dining room was open for breakfast, I requested something to go. The kitchen staff kindly prepared a box for me, including a delicious fresh made vegetable wrap.

The three dining venues and three bars, all open air, were: Restaurant 750, Indigo and Mill Privée, the Great Room bars, Pool Bar, and Montpelier Beach Bar.

Restaurant 750 served “light and modern cuisine perfected through the use of local ingredients, herbs and spices.” From the covered terrace there were views of the lights of Charlestown and Saint Kitts. I sampled the four course tasting menu, which changed daily, the night of my arrival. Indigo, closed for lunch during most of my stay, offered casual island dining, “high end services and sophisticated style” with fine wines, rare rums, cigars and cocktails. A private five course dinner was available at Mill Privée in the hotel’s 300 year old sugar mill, said to be the only restaurant of its kind in the world. Evening cocktails and canapés were served in the Great Room in the Main House.

Prior to working at the hotel, Chef Caumont was chef de partie at the Grand Hyatt Dubai. Before that, he worked at the Hyatt Regency London The Churchill, the Park Hyatt Sydney, Australia, and was chef de cuisine at the French Embassy in Bamako, Mali.

The property had its own garden for organic herbs (mint, basil, oregano, thyme) and a few vegetables. Staff made homemade jams, yoghurt, pasta, and bread. The hotel had a wine cellar and a broad selection of aged rums.

Amenities There were 300 milliliter containers of Elemis body lotion, body gel, shampoo and conditioner, and Elemis vanity kits (sewing, shoe shine, cotton swabs and make up remover pads), cotton bathrobes, electronic safe, fresh water, coffee and tea service, hairdryer, iron, iron board and full length mirror. The staff selected the British Elemis brand because of its natural products made with organic extracts.

Beach I spent a blissful few hours at the beach. It was one of two favorite areas of the property. Hotel guests had access to a 363 foot private beach within three acres. It had a handful of small beach cabanas, lounge chairs, one unisex bathroom with a changing room, toilet and sink (no shower), and a main area with sitting space and a staffed corner bar. Most of the land where the hotel structures were located was grassy. A pretty white beach was sandwiched between that section and large grouping of rocks on both sides. It was easy to enter and there was a mild surf the day I was there.

The hotel offered a complimentary van transfer to the beach and back once a day. Departure was scheduled at 10 a.m. and return at 4 p.m. There was no towel or meal service at the beach. If I wanted to eat while at the beach and didn’t drive I had to request a picnic lunch in advance. It was necessary to take pool towels to the beach and bring them back on my return. Because I was the only guest the Monday I went I could choose the time of my return. The beach area was blissfully quiet, the only sounds were of the surf and the Caribbean breeze urging me to relax.

Facilities A tennis court (open from 9 a.m. until dusk), library/TV room, three restaurants, private beach, and pool.

Pool The pool area was my favorite spot at the property, especially in the early morning when I had it to myself and it was quiet (during the day, there was sometimes music in the background). The pool itself was clean and attractive. It was 60 feet long and 20 feet wide, large enough to swim laps comfortably. It varied in depth between three and 12 feet. There were 16 loungers in the sunny pool deck and two tables, seating four each, with umbrellas. The pool area had a shady section with four loveseats and four cushioned lounge chairs under a wide awning. The pool bar was adjacent to the pool and the hotel restaurants were nearby. The historic sugar mill, a small garden and the pool restrooms were to one side. The staff were friendly and attentive. One of them brought me an unsolicited yet welcome glass of ice water when I settled down in a lounge chair one morning.

Spa Treatments were available in a spa treatment room. Following my visit the hotel had added treatments in an outdoor area.

Other The hotel was a member of the Relais & Chateaux international association. Information in my room requested guests maintain their rooms smoke free although smoking was allowed on the verandahs. A note on the bathroom sink indicated unless guests requested otherwise sheets were washed every three days, and hanging up the towels meant they didn’t need to be washed. The laundry service was efficient. It only required a day for my laundry to return, on a hanger. There was a small gift shop, Sugar Shop, behind reception with a few islands crafts, souvenirs and polo shirts.

The staff relied on fruits and vegetables predominantly supplied by local farmers, selecting producers using organic methods and sustainable agricultural practices. The property had a policy to support the local community while providing guests with high quality products.

Restaurant remains were saved and collected by the local farmers to feed their animals. The property used paper products with a high recycled content and recycled a large portion of printed material. In the laundry, staff used organic detergents (Ecolab) and water saving methods such as rain water.

There were two cisterns to collect rainwater for use in the laundry and the gardens. There was an automatic lighting system to save energy during the day. To avoid the usage of small plastic bottles and reduce wasteful packaging, the property used dispenser style bottles for bath products in the rooms and for other consumables.

For toiletries the company selected Elemis in part because the brand “does not test on animals and respects the environment.” The hotel encouraged guests to support its effort to be green, placing “green cards” in all rooms concerning the daily changing of towels and sheets.

The property was recognized in the following: Top 20 hotels in the Americas and Caribbean, Reader’s Travel Awards, Condé Nast Traveller 2014; Best Hotels in the Caribbean & Atlantic, Readers’ Choice Awards, Condé Nast Traveller 2014; AAA Four Diamond Hotel Award, 2005 to 2014; AAA Four Diamond Restaurant Award, Restaurant 750, 2005 to 2014; World Travel Awards, Saint Kitts & Nevis’ Leading Hotel, 2013; Certificate of Excellence Award, Trip Advisor from 2012 to 2014; World’s Top 100, Reader’s Travel Awards; and Condé Nast Traveller UK 2012

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review November 2014

Reviewers Article and Photos by Elena del Valle

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression A last minute addition to my itinerary in Nevis turned into an unexpected delight at the lush and lovingly maintained The Botanical Gardens of Nevis. The 6.1 acre property in a residential area of the small Caribbean island housed plant nurseries, fruit orchards, Orchid Terraces, a Rainforest Conservatory modeled after the Palm House of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew as well as Cactus, Palm, and Bamboo gardens. The private estate was open to the public for daytime visits and special events.

From the second floor of the West Indian Great House replica building in the heart of the Gardens there was a splendid view. Toward one side, I saw the green landscape of Nevis dotted with the white tips of island houses and beyond it the sea. When I turned, I had a pretty view of Mount Nevis with a crown of clouds in the background, behind the Conservatory.

There were birds, bees and butterfly residents, my friendly tour guide explained when I stopped to admire a bird resting on an unfamiliar tree. There were three parrots in residence as well as house dogs Tango, ChaCha, and Snoopy. They helped protect the plants and fruit trees from the overabundant island monkeys.

Water fountains, manmade “rivers and lagoons” and Asian sculptures peppered whimsically throughout the gardens added an artistic and exotic touch to the experience. At the end, I was surprised to discover a well stocked gift shop, filled with local and international souvenirs, especially Asian products and crafts. If I happen to return to Nevis I look forward to another visit to the gardens.

Average Duration Of Visit One to two hours

Description The property was home to six acres of foliage including tropical plants from Australia, South Africa, Malaysia, Thailand, Central and South America, and the United States, including Hawaii. Staff at the attraction believed it was home to one of the Caribbean’s largest collections of palms and orchids. It had 70 species of orchid, 100 varieties of palms, bamboo, cactus and vine gardens, fruit orchards and a Kew style rainforest conservatory. There was a large pre Columbian Olmec head replica forming a waterfall alongside Olmec and Mayan motif designs.

There were water features and also a collection of Asian sculptures scattered throughout the gardens. There were herbs, shaving bush trees, calabash, sausage tree, shower trees, ficus trees, bamboo trees, ginger, bromeliads, topiaries, calico vine flowers, papyrus reeds in the Lily Pool, cacti, aloe, succulents, arid shrubs, jasmine, and gardenia. Fruit plants included golden apple, West Indian cherries, guava, and mango. Among the palms there were Bismark, West Indian royal, and red stem lipstick varieties.

Established It opened to the public in 1998. In 2007, the Douglas Family purchased and improved the property.

Handicapped Access Most areas of the Gardens were accessible to wheelchairs, according to a staff person.

Location The gardens were two miles from Charlestown.

Number Of Employees 15

Owned And Managed Douglas Enterprises Inc., a private enterprise subsidized by the property owners.

Size The 6.1 acre property housed one two story West Indian Great House replica building centrally located within the gardens and open to the public .

Were Children Welcome? Yes

Restaurant The Oasis Thai Restaurant, a 75 seat eatery serving Thai cuisine and Western dishes as well, was on the second floor of the West Indian Great House replica building. The cook was from Thailand. The staff grew some vegetables, most of their own herbs and spices, and ingredients used in Thai cuisine such as chilies and basil.

Souvenir Shop The Galleria Gift Shop sold prints and artworks by local artists, clothing, jewelry, handicrafts, souvenirs and decorative items sourced locally and internationally.

Tours Yes

Other The property restaurant recycled used bottles. In addition to mulching cut branches and trees the gardens had a waste composting system. In January 2012, the property was named Most Popular Attraction by the Nevis Island Administration, Ministry of Tourism.

Month And Date Of Visit November 2014

Reviewers Article and Photos by Elena del Valle

Would You Visit This Attraction Again Yes

Overall Impression Unlike many Caribbean destinations, Nevis, a 36 square mile corner of serenity in the country of Saint Kitts and Nevis in the Leeward Islands, housed no duty free shopping boutiques (nor much shopping to speak of), casinos or fast food eateries. Only small cruise ships visited its shores. Its 12,400 residents share their homeland with 30,000 annual visitors who find refuge from the fast pace of their lives in the island’s three luxury hotels and sixty luxury rental homes, most of which are inland.

Nevis catered to savvy travelers, who once they found their way there, seemed to appreciate the tranquil rural setting with more wild monkeys and donkeys than people, and without a single traffic light or any congestion on its 22 miles of road. During my low season visit, the charm in Nevis was as much for what it lacked as for its unspoiled natural beauty, eleven beaches (including a little known volcanic black sand beach), low crime, varied dining venues (the tiny island was home to 40 local and international restaurants), and easy going slow pace.

While reaching the island required time, effort and patience the rewards far outweighed the challenge for those seeking comfortable seclusion in a tropical setting. Signs of growth were in evidence in several new construction projects. I would advise my friends wishing to experience the placid side of Nevis to visit sooner rather than later.

Cost Of Visiting Moderate to high

Currency Eastern Caribbean dollars were the national currency although United States dollars were widely accepted.

Electrical Current Most hotels and homes ran on 110 volts although 220 volts plugs were sometimes available.

Health And Vaccinations There was one hospital, Alexandra Hospital, with an emergency room. For diving accidents patients were sent to Saint Eustatia or Saba.

Location The island, part of the Leeward Islands, is at a latitude of 17.15 degrees north and a longitude of 62.58 degrees west.

Measures Nevis primarily used imperial units of measure such as inches, feet, yards and miles (as opposed to kilometers, meters and centimeters), pounds and ounces (rather than kilograms) and gallons and fluid ounces (as opposed to liters). However, most temperature references were in Celsius rather than Fahrenheit.

Money Issues There were nine automatic teller machines (ATMs) and international credit cards were widely accepted. There were also six banks, including two international banks, Bank of Nova Scotia and First Caribbean CIBC.

Technology Communication and modern conveniences were common at luxury properties, although internet connectivity was uneven in places. One four star property had no television onsite.

Time Although Nevis was on Eastern Standard Time, islanders did not adjust their clocks for daylight savings. The island was four hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (five hours behind during daylight saving time in the spring and summer)

Transportation The best way to see Nevis was to rent a car.

How To Get There Reaching Nevis was an exercise in perseverance, patience and determination. Although there were connections from nearby islands, there were no direct flights to Nevis from the United States or Europe. For many connections, it was necessary to reach a large island like Puerto Rico or Saint Martin and catch a small airplane. The other alternative was to fly into Saint Kitts and from there take a ferry or a water taxi.

Facilities The Vance Amory International Airport had a 4006 foot runway that could accommodate evening flights, small aircraft and some private jets flying directly from the United States. Other facilities included Alexandra Hospital, a 400 seat Performing Arts Center, and the Drag Race Strip. There was a horse track with no starting gates. Although it was not manicured its claim to fame was that “no other race course in the world has a backdrop of blue sea and a dormant volcano.”

Shopping And Souvenirs Other than grocery stores, shopping on the island was limited mostly to souvenirs, tee shirts and branded clothing.

Tourism Highlights Part of of the allure of Nevis was that there were few must see places. History buffs might enjoy a walk in the New River Estate for a glimpse of the unpolished ruins of a former sugar mill plantation. For nature enthusiasts there were several guided hiking options including one to Mount Nevis, and easy to access hot springs. It was possible to enjoy a morning of sailing aboard a locally made catamaran or spend the day strolling in the lush and well maintained The Botanical Gardens of Nevis.

Other The name of the island, derived from the Spanish word for snow (nieve), dates back to Columbus’ landing in 1493. Because the cloud covered mountain in the center of the island, now called Mount Nevis, reminded him of snow capped mountains in Spain he called the island Nuestra Señora de Las Nieves, which means Our Lady of the Snows. Over the years, the name morphed into Nevis, pronounced Nee-vis.

There was a wind farm capable of generating up to 2.2 mega watts of power for NEVLEC (Nevis Electricity Company Ltd.). Plans were in place to develop geothermal resources on Nevis and to build a 10 mega watt power plant via Nevis Renewable Energy International LLC. In an effort to convert waste to energy a private company was enlisted to work with the Ministry of Health and the Solid Waste Management Authority for NEVLEC to distribute to its customers. Authorities expected the project to deal with solid waste while at the same time generating power for the electricity grid. There were also plans for a solar farm. Already a number of private home owners and businesses had solar energy devices installed as part of their energy mix.

Date Of Latest Visit November 2014

Reviewers Article and Photos by Elena del Valle

Would You Visit This Destination Again? Yes

Overall Impression Our week long escape to the Caribbean aboard the SeaDream I was wonderful. We liked the small vessel’s accent on adults, intimate and informal ambiance, friendly and attentive service and gourmet offerings. Sailing with SeaDream I was like a voyage aboard a friend’s large yacht or as part of a social club.

With 54 passengers, mostly couples, the ship was blessedly only half full, allowing us extra space to spread out. At the same time, a number of western nationalities were represented, making for a diverse group of people. Almost half of the passengers had sailed with SeaDream before and some of them booked future trips before disembarking. Striking up a conversation with fellow passengers was common and often couples would be seen sharing tables at meal times with newly met couples or groups.

Service was outstanding. For example, most of the staff greeted us by name and some of them remembered beverage preferences from one meal to another. The pace was ours to set. We could relax with a book in a sundeck chair or stateroom, dine in or at the dining room, or be tempted by a few onboard activities and shore excursions. We liked that most of the time when we arrived at an island ours was the only ship or one of few. This meant islands, sometimes tiny, we visited were uncrowded and a pleasure to explore.

Invariably we looked forward to meal times. Executive Chef Gilles de Cambourg, an enthusiastic and affable Frenchman, and his team always had copious quantities of tempting and varied freshly made a la carte dishes on offer and the servers in the dining room strived to ensure we enjoyed them.

We remain fans of the SeaDream style (we enjoyed a voyage aboard the SeaDream II in the past). For a relaxed, sedate Caribbean voyage the combination of luxury features and size of the SeaDream I, especially the intimate setting, small number of passengers, gourmet fare, service orientation with high staff to guest ratio, and meal and beverage inclusive package, was outstanding.

About The Crew The Danish born master of the ship had discovered his love of the sea at the young age of 16. Later he attended the Maritime School in Fredrikstad, Norway. These days the semi-retired captain made his home in England with Suzanne, his partner of 23 years. His daughter Anita was a school teacher in Norway and his son Thomas, still in college, lived with the family in England. When ashore on leave Smorawski liked to restore antique furniture.

We first met the master of the ship, as we were exploring the vessel. We spotted the back of a man in the white uniform of the senior crew and followed him up the steps. When he became aware of our presence he offered assistance; we replied we were just following him since he seemed to know where he was going. He graciously shared some pointers about the ship and we each carried on in our own direction. Every other encounter with him, whether we ran into him fetching his breakfast or at the Captain’s Table, was pleasant. While he seemed a man of few words he was polite and warm in his demeanor and we enjoyed his company.

On a number of occasions we had a chance to speak with Chef Cambourg who was welcoming and friendly.

Built and renovation The ship was built in 1984 as the Cunard Sea Goddess 1. In 2001, it entered into service, after a complete refit, as SeaDream I with a Bahamian registry. The most recent renovation took place in 2011 when a soft refurnishing of interiors, carpeting, upholstery, and wallpaper as well as behind the scenes items including technical updates took place.

Children Although the ship offered no programs or services for children, babies over one year old and children were welcome. There were no children during our voyage. Several of our fellow passengers shared that one of the reasons they selected the SeaDream I was because of the emphasis on adults and the likelihood that there would be no children.

Duration Seven nights. Arrival was on a Saturday afternoon beginning at 2 and departure was the following Saturday morning between 9 and 10 a.m.

Executive Crew On the date of our sailing the senior staff on board were Bjarne Smorawski, captain; Pierre van der Merwe, hotel manager; Jeff Fithian, club director; and Gilles de Cambourg, executive chef.

Handicapped Access There were limited facilities for guests in wheelchairs. There was an elevator which many of the passengers with ambulatory challenges used. The gangway stairs to board the ship required some care to negotiate for anybody with physical impediments, especially when the surf was choppy and we were boarding from the tender. According to a spokesperson there was a stateroom “designed for easy handicap access.” The informational booklet in our stateroom listed the availability of alert kits with visual notification for the doorknocker and smoke alarm and a vibrating alarm and phone amplifier for guests with hearing impairments. Service dogs were permitted on board with appropriate documentation.

Internet Connectivity For a fee there was satellite access to the internet from our stateroom and from the yacht’s Library: $11 for 30 minutes or $35 for 24 hours of unlimited access (it was possible to purchase less time). Laptops were available at no charge. We connected easily using our iPad.

Location The voyage started and ended in Heritage Quay, Saint John’s, Antigua and Barbuda in the Caribbean.

Owned And Managed SeaDream Yachts, Inc. which was property of Atle Brynestad

Pets No

Sailing Route In order of sailing date we went to Heritage Quay in Saint John’s, Antigua; Sandy Ground, Anguilla; Soper’s Hole, Tortola in the British Virgin Islands; Norman Island and Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands; Saba in the Netherland Antilles; Gustavia, Saint Barts in the French West Indies; Charlestown (due to inclement weather the stop in Coconut Grove was cancelled), Nevis and Saint John’s, Antigua.

Size The ship had 56 staterooms that could accommodate a maximum of 112 guests. During our voyage there were 54 passengers and 94 crew. The SeaDream I has a gross tonnage of 4,260. It is 344 feet long and has a 47 foot beam. Its maximum speed is 14 knots.

Description A week long (Saturday to Saturday) luxury cruise aboard a refurbished cruise ship with 54 passengers. Emphasis was on personalized service, well prepared meals and a quality experience for adults; there were few if any activities for children and the ambiance was adult oriented. Meals at set times and snacks in between meals were included as were on board activities except for spa treatments. Alcoholic beverages and soft drinks including house wines with meals, cocktails and champagne were included except for premium varieties which were available for a supplement. On shore, we were usually on our own to relax, meander about on foot, hire a car, take a tour or sign up for a third party shore excursion made available through the ship at an additional cost (usually starting at $100 and up per person and often exclusive to SeaDream I passengers). Dress was “elegant yet casual” or “yacht casual” and there was a written dress code indicating bathing suit attire and cover ups and exercise clothing were restricted to the pool deck and spa. Long pants were required for men for dinner and shorts, t-shirts and jeans were not allowed in the dining room or public areas.

Cabin We stayed in stateroom 407, a 195 square foot cabin on Level 4 halfway down the hall between the stairs and the spa. The space, decorated in earth tones, was divided into three distinct areas: a head or bathroom immediately to the right of the entrance; a living space with a closet and built-in entertainment area; and a sleeping area against a large water facing window.

From the entrance a short hallway closet with three mirrored doors housed hanging and shelf space. Next was a living area with a built-in cloth sofa, with storage space at the bottom, against the wall. Two cloth armchairs and an oval table in the middle completed the blonde wood furniture set.

Across the room was a built-in blonde wood desk and entertainment area with a remote controlled flat screen 15 inch television, Toshiba DVD player and iPod dock in the center. Handsome glasses in several sizes where housed inside cabinets. There was an ice bucket and services folder on the desk. There were drawers in the lower part of the desk, an electronic safe, and a mini refrigerator stocked with beer and soft drinks. Light in that area of the cabin was from two lamps on the wall above the sofa and lights in the entertainment furniture. There were also lights in the hallway and lamps on the night tables. There was framed artwork on the walls. There were two phones in the stateroom, one on the desk immediately under the light switches and electrical outlets (for 110 and 220 volts) and another on the wall next to the innermost side of the bed.

An off white cloth curtain divided the living and sleeping areas. The bed, set against a headboard, could be configured with two twin beds or one queen bed (setting the two twins together). The queen bed frame was 5.25 feet (62.99 inches) wide by 6.56 feet (78.74 inches) long. Empty suitcases were placed under the bed by the staff the day we arrived. There was a night table on either side of the bed. A large mirror occupied the top half of the bed facing wall above a narrow vanity space with two shallow drawers and a cushioned round stool with wheels. There were plants on either side of the shelf along with a magnifying make-up mirror. A large rectangular window with double curtains provided a splendid view of the outdoors.

At night we could hear faint music and piano bar noises and clearly hear people talking in the hallway adjacent to our cabin. Except for plumbing sounds in the head, we heard no sounds from neighboring staterooms.

Common Areas The ship boasted comfortable contemporary casual décor. There was cloth furniture in the downstairs dining rooms, wicker and cushions in the outdoor top decks, various kinds of lounge and deck chairs poolside and on the top outdoor decks. Smoking of cigars (for sale on board), cigarettes, and pipes was permitted outside on decks 3, 4 and 6 only, but not during meal times. Cell phone use was unfortunately allowed in common areas including the dining room. Sitting in the shade outside in the sometimes searing Caribbean day was challenging as there were few seats in the shade. It was possible to request umbrellas which one of the staff would set up. That helped but when the ship was moving no umbrellas were allowed and outdoor shady space was scarce. This was a less than desirable situation in case of seasickness when being outdoors was helpful.

Head The bathroom, though small, offered everything we needed. It had beige marble floors and walls. There was a flushing toilet, sink, two small shelves next to a large wall mirror and a spacious glass enclosed shower (some mold) with three shower heads and a circular temperature dial. There were tissues, toiletries on the shelves and a cotton and cotton swab container. The space between the door and the toilet when seated was very snug. One night the plumbing system was acting up and the toilet would not flush properly requiring that we call the staff.

Meals-Restaurants Dining was one of the pleasures aboard the SeaDream I. Dining room staff were attentive and knowledgeable about the meals. Meals, served at set times, were a combination of buffet and plated a la carte offerings except at dinner when everything was prepared to order. The appetizing and tasty dishes arrived hot; they were well presented and served. It was obvious that much work and organization took place behind the scenes by the chef, pastry chef (Ferenc Béres Molnar), wine steward, kitchen, and dining room staff to make meal times a seamless success. Supplying the pantry and preparing fresh meals three times daily for a diverse group of finicky guests aboard a ship must be challenging; yet it mostly seemed easy (if at times harried), the mark of professionals.

All cuisine was created onboard from frozen meats and fish and fresh produce. Everything served, we were told, was homemade from bread to ice cream to chocolate. Plated dishes were prepared a la minute. It was evident the French chef and his staff enjoyed their work and strived to provide a superlative dining experience. A number of fellow passengers we spoke with mentioned SeaDream as their favorite line for the meal quality.

Meals were served at set times as follows: hot beverages and freshly baked pastries were available at 6:30 a.m.; breakfast from 8 to 10:30 a.m., lunch from 12:30 to 2:30 p.m. and dinner from 8 to 10 p.m. There were snacks poolside during the day and hot beverages and fresh baked cookies between 2:30 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. on Deck 5. Outside of those times it was possible to order snacks from a set weeklong menu in our cabin or on the upper decks during the day. Breakfast consisted of a buffet of cereals, yogurt, fresh and canned fruit, cheeses, cold cuts (one or more of the following smoked salmon, ham or turkey), an ample selection of bread, toast and pastries, butter, jam, and juices including some squeezed on board. It was possible to order hot dishes and daily specials a la carte.

Breakfast specials and a la carte lunch and dinner options changed daily. We ordered room service twice, one evening in lieu of going to the dining room and one morning when we had a shore activity that conflicted with the breakfast times. Both times the service was efficient and fast and the snacks were good. Hors d’oeuvres (my least favorite) and aperitifs were served nightly an hour before dinner in the Salon. We especially enjoyed the American caviar when it was available (one of the first days and at the master’s cocktail reception).

A plated dinner, served, weather permitting, in the open air dining areas, was the most elaborate meal. Rainy weather drove us to the main dining room on Deck 2. Tables were attractively set with silver, china and crystal ware. There were several choices from the a la carte menu including vegetarian, healthy and Indian options. During our voyage there was a celebrity chef from Great Britain, Levi Root. His dishes were spicy with a strong Caribbean influence. There was always a variety of fresh breads and two house wines from the sommelier’s daily selection. Although his time was at a premium he sometimes made recommendations of optional wines available for a supplement. There was also a selection of Russian caviar available for a supplement ranging between $101 and $122 for a one ounce jar.

Complimentary refreshments included bottled water, soft drinks, hot beverages, spirits, house wines, sparkling wines and champagnes. Wine and spirit connoisseurs or those celebrating a special occasion could order premium options from the ship’s wine list for an additional fee. We sampled two of the premium wines recommended by the wine specialist, a 2000 Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru and a 2005 Premier Grand Cru Clos Fourtet Saint Emilion made by Philippe Cuvelier. We especially liked the Saint Emilion.

Amenities Service and gratuities, meals, champagne or sparkling wine, house wines, liquor (except premium brands) and room service snacks and beverages were included. There were soft drinks, beer and water in a mini fridge and full size bottles of water on the shelf (at my request they were kept at room temperature). Our beverages were restocked when the stateroom was serviced. There were travel size Bulgari White Tea toiletries including shower cap, shampoo, conditioner, soap, and body lotion. For our use on board there were cotton bathrobes and slippers. There was personalized stationary and we were gifted extra large navy blue cotton pajamas with our first names stitched on the front of the pajama tops.

Every night when we returned from dinner there was information on the following day’s activities, information on our next land excursions, a The International summary from Headland Media (this had to be requested from the concierge desk), a daily amenity: in addition to the pajamas there was half a bottle of Jacquart Champagne on arrival, two white chocolate dipped strawberries, two specialty tea bags, and a tin of SeaDream mints, each one compliments of one of the senior SeaDream staff.

Other amenities were ocean view in our stateroom, direct dial phones, 24 hour room service, wooden hangers, full length mirrors, in cabin electronic safe, make-up mirror, hair dryer, flat screen TV with CNN International, DVD/CD player, iPod docking station, and dataport. There were complimentary activities such as yoga classes, walks with activities led by staff members at some ports, karaoke singing, use of books, two computers for guest use, magazines, board games, a small selection of DVDs and CDs from the ship’s library, water sports, evening movies in the Main Salon, and live music (guitar and piano). There was a limited number of mountain bikes with helmets and locks for guest use. There was a staffed medical facility and a beauty salon. These services were not included in the inclusive rates. We took advantage of some of the additional options requiring supplementary fees such as laundry, shore excursions, spa treatments, wine bottles, and internet connectivity.

Leisure Activities There were a number of options such as shore excursions, golf simulator, Caviar and Champagne Splash, sunbathing on Balinese Sun Beds, reading (there was a small library on the yacht), playing at the casino (open limited hours) and shopping (during the day-long stops in Caribbean ports and at the yacht’s boutique (during limited hours when we were at sea). Except for departure and arrival days, swimming and non motorized water sports were available for a limited amount of time and not at the same time (after signing a disclaimer form at the Concierge Desk) at the Water Sports Marina. Twice, in Saint Barths and exceptionally in Nevis, motorized sports were available. When using the motorized sports equipment life vests were required. I enjoyed a long jet ski ride as did many fellow passengers while a few adventurous souls tried their luck on the inflatable banana. A round floating platform was set on the water by the Marina while we swam. It was fun to take a break from the swim and climb aboard the platform. Staff were always on hand on the aft deck and in a motorized dingy while we swam and during the water sports hours.

In the late afternoons I enjoyed spending time in the small sauna. There was also a shower stall that doubled as a steam room. Both, located at the spa, required advance reservations. I indulged in a relaxing “deep” massage and had a pleasant mini pedicure.

In the fitness center, adjacent to the spa and open during the day, there were four water facing Technogym treadmills, an elliptical machine, a multi-use machine and small free weights. I made a point of working out when onboard or shore activities and meals did not conflict. I especially liked the scenic views of the water and shore and that it was rarely busy.

Other On boarding the first day we were asked for our passports so that the staff could clear formalities at each of the island destinations. In their stead the staff provided an identification card with our photo (taken on the spot) which we used to board the tender and on our return, and when entering and exiting some of the islands.

We attended a captain’s cocktail reception for repeat guests and twice dined with senior staff, once with the captain and six other guests and once with the activities director and two other guests. These activities were by invitation.

On more than one occasion foul weather interfered with our plans. The day we departed from Antigua it rained most of the day so we canceled our plans to tour the island prior to boarding the ship. Later in the week when we arrived in Nevis the island was cloud covered and gray. Although it rained on and off all day we went ashore. The weather caused the ship to relocate. Our driver kindly took us back to where the ship was due to arrive while we waited under shelter from the rain at a local dockside cafe. Due to the rain the Champagne and Caviar Splash that was usually the highlight of the week was held indoors. Because we were ashore waiting for the ship to arrive we missed most of the event. By the time we returned the already toned down event was nearly over.

Our luggage had to be placed outside our stateroom door no later than 1 a.m. the day of our departure in order to be offloaded and transferred to the customs terminal for us to pick up on departure the following morning after 9 a.m. There was a noticeable emphasis on selling future trips. Everyday, including the last morning, the activities staff set aside time for passengers wishing to book passage on a SeaDream voyage. Passengers who booked during that week received a 15 percent discount with a 25 percent deposit on a future voyage and if they booked one immediately following the one we were on there was an additional discount.

The SeaDream I had been recognized with a number of listings and awards. In the Berlitz Ocean Cruising and Cruise Ships 2012 (as well as 2011 and 2010) the SeaDream I and SeaDream II received the top two ratings in the Boutique Ships category for 50 to 200 passengers. The SeaDream I ratings out of a possible 2,000 points was 1,786 points. In the Condé Nast Traveller (Britain), Readers’ Travel Awards 2011 the SeaDream I (and SeaDream II) were named the World’s Best Small Ships. In Cruise Critic 2011 SeaDream I was rated by cruisers in the number one space for Service in the Small Ship category. Frommer’s Guide to Cruises and Ports of Call 2011 selected the ship in the top billing in its Notable Ships category. In the 2010 Kreuzfahrt Guide (Germany), the SeaDream Yacht Club’s cruisers were awarded Number One for Service. Porthole Magazine 2010 named the SeaDream Yacht Club Best Passenger Yacht Experience. The Zagat Survey 2009 identified SeaDream as having the Best Small Ships under 200 passengers. The Cruise Critic 2009 Editors Picks named romantic SeaDream Yacht Club Best for a Honeymoon Splurge.

Safety According to our stateroom manual the SeaDream I followed United States and international safety regulations. Before departing from Antigua we had a mandatory safety drill. There were life vests for each of us in the cabin which we brought with us to the drill.

Cleanliness Very good. We saw staff cleaning the ship all the time; they scrubbed the decks, polished the bronze fixtures, vacuumed and scoured.

Date Of Review December 2011

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Service The service was attentive and friendly, especially the servers and dining room staff. There was twice daily maid service and change of towels in our stateroom. Often some of the staff would remember beverage preferences. Almost without exception the staff greeted us by name wherever we went on board the ship. There was a mix of nationalities within which there were two notable groups, westerners and easterners from the Philippines. Several staff members stood our for their friendly and helpful demeanor: Brian Celeridad among the servers always had a ready smile; whenever he was around we were sure to be served our preferred beverages and had prompt refills. Brenda at the Concierge Desk was unfailingly friendly and helpful, sharing insights and providing us information and maps whenever possible. I made a point of looking for Brenda when I needed assistance. Corika Zeelie, the spa manager, was service oriented and helpful. At lunch and dinner Pablo Raschetti, the wine steward, was attentive and friendly.

Maribel looked after our cabin. It was always well made although by our departure we had only seen her once, the day after our arrival. The SeaDream Yacht Club strives to be recognized for very attentive (without being stuffy) service. Medical services for minor issues were available aboard the ship with daily set consultation times for guests and by appointment at other times.

Would You Take This Voyage Again? Yes

Overall Impression This rustic off the beaten track island of 70,000 inhabitants was charming thanks to its old Caribbean character and natural unspoiled beauty (60 percent of the island was under natural vegetation). Popular with hikers and adventure seekers the serene and mountainous island filled with waterfalls and greenery, including six types of tropical forest, is home to the Kalinago people, the few remaining original indian inhabitants of the region.

What Dominica (pronounced dom-in-ee-ka) lacked in infrastructure, refinement and easy access it made up for manifold in beautiful scenery, devoid of highrise buildings, and genuine unpretentious locals. A gentle pace, little to no crime, hiking trails, seascapes, and landscapes were the most notable features. I will recommend this island to well traveled friends and colleagues who appreciate strenuous hiking, natural beauty and challenging to reach less discovered destinations.

Cost Of Visiting Reasonable

Currency Eastern Caribbean dollars. United States dollars were accepted widely.

Electrical Current 220/240 volts and type G plug.

Health And Vaccinations No vaccinations were required for entry except for visitors from countries with yellow fever. Medical care on the island was limited with one hospital and several clinics; and serious conditions made air evacuation necessary (one of my fellow travelers on the return flight was on his way to Miami, Florida for urgent surgery). According to one source, doctors and hospitals on the island required payment in cash for treatment.

Location Between Guadeloupe and Martinique in the Eastern Caribbean, one of the Windward Islands.

Measures The metric system was used.

Technology All the tourist areas of the island I visited had electricity, running water, television, some internet access, and cell phone signal.

Time GMT minus four hours.

Transportation Within the island the best way to get around was to rent a car and self drive, especially if staying outside of the main urban areas. Driving was on the left side of the road and many of the roads were in poor repair, with limited signage and impatient speed favoring drivers. It was also possible to hire someone to serve as guide and driver.

How To Get There Reaching Dominica from the United States mainland via commercial flights was a time consuming and frustrating process, especially off season. The fastest route to get there when I visited the island was on American Airlines and American Eagle out of Miami, Florida with a change of airplanes in San Juan, Puerto Rico. It was necessary to follow the reverse route on the way back. On my return home, the departing flight out of Dominica was delayed five hours and when we arrived in San Juan the airline refused to let us board our next flight although there was enough time to make the connection. Instead we had to spend the night in San Juan and connect on flights to the mainland the following morning. It was also possible to fly from Europe, the United States and other Caribbean islands to nearby islands, such as Martinique, Guadeloupe, Saint Lucia or Antigua, and connect with a regional airline. There was ferry service from Saint Lucia, Martinique and Guadeloupe.

Facilities Outside the main towns of Roseau and Portsmouth and tourist areas there were few facilities.

Shopping And Souvenirs It was possible to purchase authentic Carib handicrafts made by members of the Carib Craft Association in the Kalinago Barana Aute Carib Cultural Village. Visitors to the village could purchase basket and display souvenirs made from woven larouma reed. There were several art galleries and tourist oriented shops. The American owned Tallipot Gallery in Roseau served tasty meals and displayed local art. Guidebooks and souvenirs including t-shirts and handicrafts could be found in the Roseau market and at hotels.

Tourism Highlights Nature oriented activities such as hiking, snorkeling, and whale and dolphin watching (seven species of whale and eleven species of dolphin spent time in the waters of Dominica) were the most abundant. Hiking attractions on the island were classified from one to five in ascending order by their degree of difficulty with One being Very Easy and Five being Very Difficult. Some of the better known points of interest were Trafalgar Falls, twin waterfalls in the Roseau Valley requiring a 10-minute Degree One walk to see from a covered viewing platform; Emerald Pool, a popular choice along the most accessible trail in the Morne Trois Pitons National Park, requiring a 15-minute Degree Two walk to reach the small swimming area; Morne Diablotin, a 1.25 mile Degree Four hike averaging three hours each way; and Boiling Lake, described as a three-hour each way Degree Four destination although I heard from locals who had been there that it was longer and more difficult than commonly described.

Other well known attractions were Victoria Falls, reached by hiking with a guide through a difficult and unmarked trail and traversing a fast moving river; Titou Gorge, a narrow canyon and small waterfall where some visitors liked to swim in spite of the strong current; Freshwater Lake; and Indian River, a picturesque river accessed by a short guided rowboat ride and made famous in one of the Pirates of the Caribbean movies.

For hikers the most notable of the island’s natural attractions was the Waitukubuli National Trail which cut across part of the country’s 289 square miles and had 14 distinct hiking trails with varying degrees of difficulty spread over 115 miles. The Trail crossed a UNESCO World Heritage Site (Morne Trois Pitons National Park), national parks, forest reserves, private property, historic sites, and former Carib paths. The mostly forest Trail was under development by the Dominica government with the assistance of Martinique and the European Union. It began at Scotts Head/Soufriere in the southwest and reached north to Cabrits on the opposite tip of the island. The average length of time to hike the entire Trail, for those inclined to do so, was more than two weeks.

Even the easiest of the trails, Segment One from Scotts Head to Soufriere, required almost four hours to traverse by fit hikers. Conditions of the steep and difficult segment were at times very poor and the trail itself difficult to identify. Some visitors, my guide explained, liked the mostly natural path which had no supporting guardrails, facilities, access to water or first aid, or cell phone signal and very limited signage. These conditions made the services of a local guide essential for all but the most adventurous and physically fit of hikers.

The Kalinago Barana Aute Carib Cultural Village by the Sea (kalinagobaranaaute.com), home to the 3,500 surviving descendants of the indigenous inhabitants of the region, was a unique attraction within the island’s Carib Territory. I especially enjoyed the Kalinago bread sold roadside in the mornings in the Carib Territory. While there were other attractions on my wish list the summer weather did not always cooperate and more than once we were rained out of our plans. With a few exceptions most of the places I stopped at during my low season visit had few visitors and seldom any lines. The island’s official website, DiscoverDominica.com, had some helpful information.

Other Few luxury options were available. The hotels I stayed at offered comfortable though not luxurious accommodations. Green practices and concern for the environment were evident in some places. One of hotels where I stayed applied responsible tourism practices.

Date Of Latest Visit July 2011

Reviewers Article and Copyrighted Photos by Elena del Valle

Would You Visit This Destination Again? Yes

Overall Impression This waterfront hotel in the heart of Dominica’s main city was well suited for tourism and business activities. Its amenities and facilities, especially the in suite WiFi internet access, were convenient. Facilities included a bay facing swimming pool, water fronting restaurant, meeting rooms, shops, dive center, bar, spa, and fitness room. While I spent most of my days exploring the island and made use of only some of the hotel facilities it was nice to know they were there. I took advantage of the restaurant and fitness room daily and visited the spa once. The facilities were functional although the hotel was showing some signs of age.

My waterfront suite with a waterfront covered balcony and a kitchenette was spacious and comfortable, allowing me ample room to work and relax at the hotel named for a former fort. I loved the surf sounds and waterfront views from my suite. Should I find myself in need of a place to stay in Roseau a suite at this hotel would be on my short list.

Children Yes, the hotel welcomed children of all ages.

Class of Accommodation Three star waterfront city hotel

Connectivity There was complimentary high speed WiFi in my suite. It worked well during my stay. Although the system allowed me to download emails to my iPad I was unable to use the search engines or surf the web for the first two days of my stay. After that I had regular internet access and email capability.

General Manager Frederique Huard

Handicapped Access The hotel was limited in its access for guests in wheelchairs as many parts of the property could only be reached via stairs.

Length of Stay Four nights

Location On the bay in the heart of the island’s capital city.

Owned And Managed Phillip Nassief

Pets Allowed No

Size The multi-story hotel with multiple buildings had 73 rooms and a staff compliment of 100.

Year Opened-Renovated The hotel first opened its doors in 1964 under a different ownership than the present one. In 1979, it was totally destroyed by Hurricane David. The hotel was rebuilt and reopened in 1989 under the present ownership with 32 rooms. In 2000, 21 rooms, duty free shops, an additional bar and a dining room were added. In 2004, another 20 rooms were added along with a new swimming pool and bar.

Lobby And Common Areas The hotel was constructed around an 18 century fort erected to protect Dominica from attack from French invaders. In spite of the damage from the 1979 hurricane much of the original building survived and formed the reception area, Marquis and Balas Bar and functions office.

The core of the hotel was historic with new buildings added over time. The area around the reception and bar had stone floors and walls. The cozy reception area, manned by two or three young ladies, was home to a desk in the back and open on two sides. There was a sofa against the wall and two armless chairs with a table in between in the opposite corner facing the hotel’s library bookshelf with loaner books and board games. The desk area was framed by two bright red walls. Above there was a high wood ceiling. Past the entrance hallway, framed on the outside by a gold colored cannon on either side, there was a special events and dining room area on the right. The hotel bar was an open sitting area under a covered roof in the center next to reception and a courtyard. At the end of the hall there were public restrooms and past them a set of stone stairs led to the rest of the hotel, the area fronting the water. At the top of the stairs there were several options. To the left and right there were staff offices and hotel rooms as well as an activities desk. Straight forward and to the left there were more hotel rooms and a few steps down there was a terrace facing the water. In the terrace there were three round Jacuzzi tubs. Two of the tubs were filled with murky looking water and a third one was empty. The building walls looked like they needed a coat of paint indoors and outdoors. The interior hallway next to my suite had dead plants peaking out of decorator openings and a worn look. The walls in the buildings visible from the pool likewise looked in need of paint.

To the right an open area led to stairs and an elevator to go down (although the main entrance was at street level this was the fifth and highest floor of the hotel) to further water fronting guest rooms, the pool area (second floor), the gym (up a short staircase from the second floor), spa (second floor), dive center (ground floor), Waterfront Restaurant (up a short staircase from the second floor, courtyard with waterfall and small pond, and duty free gift shops (ground floor).

Bathroom From the bedroom to the bathroom there was no door. I simply walked back and was in the bathroom. The center of the bathroom was taken up by a double sided wood vanity with small mirrors on two sides and full length mirrors on the other two sides. On the right side of the bathroom, there was a large built-in wood closet with an electronic safe, hanging and shelf space. On the left side of the vanity there were twin sinks set atop a russet marble base. A large wood framed mirror was set on the wall above them. The rear of the bathroom was taken up by a Jacuzzi bathtub (there were rust stains on the inside of the tub). To the right of the bathtub there was a shower with a glass door (there was no soap dish or any surface other than the floor on which to place soap or toiletries). To the left of the bathtub there was a toilet within a water closet. There was no light above the Jacuzzi or in the interior of the shower.

Room I stayed in Suite 207, the Point Michel Suite (named for a village by the same name in south Dominica), a 600-square foot waterfront suite on the second floor of a five story building steps away from the pool. The best feature of the suite, in addition to its size and amenities, was the view of the water from almost every angle. The view from my room and balcony was to a rocky shore, part of the town, a jetty and the Caribbean Sea. At the end of the day, the sunset to the right as I stood on my balcony, was pretty and welcome.

To enter my two bathroom oceanfront suite I used an electronic key card. Immediately to the left of the entrance there was a full bathroom with a shower. A short hallway led to a dining and kitchenette area. In the center of the room atop a beige and rust color flower patterned square rug (there was a larger rug in the same pattern in the living area) there was a round wood table with two matching cushioned wood chairs. A 2009 wood framed oil painting of an Indian River landscape hung on one wall. On the opposite wall there was a 2009 unframed oil painting of a rural landscape by the same artist. Behind the table on the left side of the room there was a kitchen area with a sink, Frigidaire microwave oven, and Tropical mini refrigerator. White cabinets were stocked with dinnerware, glassware, and cutlery. On the black and beige marble countertop there was a Clatronic blender, Oster hot water pitcher and a Saachi coffeemaker.

Next was a living area with a sofa and two armchairs set around a rattan and glass square coffee table. The cloth furniture was upholstered in shades of apricot, fuchsia and gold. Floor to ceiling muted yellow gold curtains covered sliding glass doors that led to side and rear outer areas (in the adjacent bedroom there were curtains matching those in the living area). A pale blond desk and armless chair occupied the space next to the right side of the living room and provided a place for a large LG flatscreen television. Twin lamps sat across the room atop end tables.

The flooring was of medium beige ceramic tiles. The temperature was controlled by a central air conditioner with an individual thermostat and fans in each room. From the living area a sliding glass door and mosquito screen led to a waterfront covered balcony, my favorite area of the suite.

Double white doors led to the bedroom which had a doorless bathroom on the right and water facing windows on the left. There was a queen bed in the middle set against a built-in large headboard that reached the ceiling. On either side of the bed there was a glass topped square night table with a lamp (the night table on the right also had a phone). Across from the bed there was a pale blonde dresser with a lamp, alarm clock and Hitachi flatscreen television on top. There were also two apricot and gold armchairs like the ones in the adjacent living area and one foot stool. A planter occupied the left corner nearest the bathroom. There was a strong smell of cigarette and air freshener in the room although the hotel had a no smoking policy in guest rooms.

Food And Restaurants On arrival there was a welcome plate with three slices of cake, cheese, spice and vanilla with chocolate layers. I liked the cheese and vanilla cakes best. Meals were served at the Waterfront restaurant overlooking the Caribbean Sea (although I ate nearly all my meals on the veranda there was an indoor air conditioned dining area). Dishes were made fresh daily using local ingredients “with an international flare.”

Breakfast, served between 7 a.m. and 10 a.m. on a water fronting covered veranda at the Waterfront Restaurant, was buffet style and completely self service (the staff removed dirty dishes). There was sliced fruit (melon, watermelon, orange, banana and papaya), yogurt, cold cereal, hot oatmeal, bottled juices, pastries and breads (the croissant style bread was my favorite) and jams, scrambled eggs, boiled fish, sausage and bacon in chafing dishes. In addition to the restaurant meal options at the hotel it was possible to order room service and the Balas Bar had snacks in its menu.

Lunch was buffet style. The day I had lunch it was a Caribbean themed lunch with jerk chicken, citron fish, provisions (root vegetables and dumplings), rice, three types of salad and two dessert platters (pineapple and a variety of cakes including carrot cake and chocolate cake). Dinner, served a la carte at the Waterfront Restaurant, was satisfying. I tried the calalou soup which was creamy and flavorful, and the smoked marlin appetizer with a small salad and pita pockets, a favorite.

Amenities There were toiletries, two white cotton bathrobes, electronic safe, cable television, telephone, iron, ironing board, and complimentary WiFi. There were two fresh flower arrangements in the living area and one smaller one in the bathroom, an umbrella, three telephones (in the living area, bedroom night table and bathroom). Pool towels were available at reception I discovered by asking.

Facilities Massage and Wellness Centre, pool, gym, hot and cold water Jacuzzi tubs, duty free shops, two restaurants, three bars, and small lending library.

Pool The 920 square foot pool faced the bay. At its deepest end it was 4 feet deep.

Fitness center and spa There was a bay facing 449 square foot air conditioned fitness center with a pleasant water view housing six types of Life Fitness bicycle, treadmill, elliptical and weight machines and free weights; and a 249 square foot spa.

Denice, who had four years of experience and was trained by a masseuse from Guyana, gave me a one hour Swedish Massage which included arms, legs, feet, stomach, head and stretching. She had confident hands and a pleasant demeanor.

Conference Facilities There were two 368 square foot meeting rooms and a 1,521 square foot conference room. Audiovisual equipment was available.

Other I could hear loud sounds from the common areas near my room into the evening and early morning. I could also hear the sounds of the surf below my window. The ground level waterfront area below the restaurant was undergoing renovations and the sounds of the work carried upstairs to the veranda making for a very noisy lunch. Smoking was allowed in the guest terraces and balconies, in Bala’s Bar and the Boardwalk. I saw guests smoking in the pool area as well.

According to a spokesperson, the Hotel provides food to a soup kitchen every day and has sponsored several activities in the community.

Cleanliness Very good

Date of Review July 2011

Reviewers

Photos and Article by Elena del Valle

Service The room was serviced once daily. I requested a spa appointment in the early morning and the front desk attendant said she would be in touch to confirm the time and I never heard from her. She scheduled the masseuse but didn’t tell me. The front desk sent me to the Business Center when I asked about using a computer with a printer to check-in for my flight. After looking around with little success I encountered the duty manager who explained the Business Center had been closed (there was ample a signage for the Business Center around the hotel) nd the front desk person was temporary and didn’t know.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression One of my most vivid memories of Dominica is the sound of the surf in my room at Jungle Bay, an eco-friendly property on the Atlantic fronting side of the Windward Island. Thanks to the close proximity of my room to the beach, the open design without air conditioning of the room and the strong surf crashing on the shore around the clock, there was always an energizing, and strangely also soothing, surf sound in my room.

Jungle Bay’s nature, fitness and ecotourism orientation attracted me from the start. The rustic rooms, called Cottages, were on a hill, lush with greenery and natural vegetation, facing the ocean. Walking was built into the design of the ocean fronting property. From reception to my room, and my room was one of the nearest rooms to reception, it was a walk of several minutes. To reach the restaurant or pool from my room I had to negotiate steep steps down from my front door and walk several minutes along a hill hugging road. As a guest, being somewhat physically fit was definitely a bonus that enhanced my enjoyment of and appreciation for the property.

The challenge, at times, was deciding what to do. It was tempting to relax on my balcony and enjoy the scenery, ocean view and bird and surf sounds. A variety of hikes, yoga classes, spa services and activities on offer, drew me out. During my stay I had time to sample the resort’s restaurant, swim in the rock pool below the restaurant, and take advantage of a handful of the activities and spa services available. One morning, I went on an escorted hike with one of the property’s senior guides to Victoria Falls, one of the area’s best known attractions. It was an exciting and memorable outing. To recover from the strenuous hike I indulged in spa treatments.

In addition to the surf sounds in my room, activities and facilities I appreciated the hotel’s friendly staff, organic meals and many responsible tourism practices. Jungle Bay will be on my list of options for a rustic, fitness and nature oriented island getaway.

Children Families with children were welcome at Jungle Bay. According to a spokes person, “the physical layout and design of Jungle Bay may not be the easiest environment for children less than 12 years. Some of our cottages have high balconies and sometimes require a lot of walking. Our swimming pool is 4 feet deep and adult supervision is required for those under twelve. That being said, we welcome families with a sense of adventure to relax and explore the wonders of nature at Jungle Bay.” I saw families with children at meal times and in the common areas during my stay.

Class of Accommodation An eco-friendly deluxe waterfront hotel

Connectivity There was complimentary internet WiFi access in the main building only. The open air game room on the second floor also housed a computer for guest use. It was covered with plastic. Although I was unable to connect to the internet with the hotel WiFi on my iPad during my stay, I checked email messages using the hotel computer several times. Every time I did I had to wait for someone to finish using the computer or hurry because someone was waiting to use it after me.

General Manager Sam Raphael

Handicapped Access According to a property representative, the property “is not suitable for wheelchairs (the cottages are located on a hill and the property requires a lot of walking).”

Length of Stay Two nights

Location In Pointe Mulatre in southeastern Domica.

Owned And Managed Samuel “Sam” and Glenda Raphael

Pets Allowed No

Size The 55-acre property was home to 35 single story detached rooms in addition to common areas such as three story main building, two-story spa and restaurant. There were 65 employees.

Year Opened-Renovated The property was established in 2005. Upgrading and renovations were undertaken annually in September when the property closed for this purpose.

Lobby And Common Areas A narrow road let to a parking area and a main building where a single multistory building housed reception and a souvenir shop, an activities center, management office, yoga rooms, and a guest entertainment room. Although the property was designed mainly for pedestrians, the narrow road continued past a barrier, allowing access to the rooms and additional common areas. The road was especially convenient in case of inclement weather (which I experienced first hand) and to drop off and pick luggage. A few minute’s walk from the main building, an attractive swimming pool and the hotel restaurant were perched above a rocky beach facing the water. On the hill, behind the restaurant, there were 35 detached rooms. The hotel style was meant to be “rustic yet elegant” and built with locally sourced and locally made furnishings.

Bathroom The bathroom was in the back of the room. A wood door led into the bathroom. There was a built-in small rectangular mirror above a built-in wood shelf with a sink to the left side of the room. A toilet was next. Across the toilet there was a rack with two each of fresh smelling face cloths, hand and bath towels. A second wood door led to a covered shower, an extension of the bathroom with openings at the top that gave the feeling of an outdoor shower although the room itself was fully enclosed and had a roof. The water was tepid the first time I showered although the following nights it was hot. There was a white light above the mirror and another in the shower.

Room The hotel offered only one category of room, Deluxe Private Jungle Cottage. Some, like mine, had a Premium Ocean View. My room Cottage 1, Breadfruit, was a 40 square meter stand alone wood building built on stilts on the hill facing the Atlantic coast. A wood door led to a small entrance area with a double door wide closet on the left and a built-in shelf facing the wall where I set up my carry on bag and iPad. A queen bed on a wood frame took up the center of the left side of the room. A simple beige bedspread atop a think blanket covered the bed. In addition to two large pillows there were four ruby and ruby and beige patterned cushions atop the bed. Identical wood shelves built into the wall on either side of the bed served as night tables. Both had lamps, one had an alarm clock and the other a telephone. There was also a night lamp clipped onto the center of the bed. A folded mosquito net dangled from the ceiling above the bed. I found no need for it and slept with it untouched.

Across from the bed there were two cushioned wood armchairs with a rectangular matching table between them. A short cabinet with two drawers was set against the wall behind the chairs and next to it there was a mini refrigerator with a carafe of chilled spring water. A Melita coffee/tea machine sat atop the cabinet and in the top drawer there were self service ingredients for coffee and tea. A reed mat was on the wood floor between the bed and the armchairs. A fan, hung from the ceiling in the center of the room, and six glass and wood windows provided ventilation. The room had a high wood ceiling, wood floors and locally made wood furnishings.

A glass and wood door led from the room to a small covered balcony with a red hammock, my favorite place in the room. From the shelter of the balcony and the comfort of the hammock I enjoyed the ocean view and the greenery surrounding the room. It was especially appealing when it was raining (even though I got a little wet standing on the balcony) and it was hot in the room because I had to shut the windows to keep the rain out.

The temperature in the room was warm. When the staff serviced the room they closed all the windows and doors and turned off the ceiling fan impeding natural air circulation. At night the wind would slam a window or door shut. Bayleaf oil in the room kept insects away. The room was faintly lit. There was one light at the entrance, one lamp clipped to the head of the bed, one upright lamp by the two armchairs and two night table lamps. There was a small light on the balcony.

Restaurant The Pavilion Restaurant, poolside and on the waterfront, emphasized mostly vegetarian, seafood, and chicken dishes with a “distinct Caribbean flavor.” About 80 percent of the food was organic and sourced from the neighboring villages. Breakfast was buffet style. During my stay, there were two types of boxed cereal and muesli, four types of milk (coconut, soy low fat and regular), four types of fresh sliced fruit (mango, banana, orange and watermelon, wax apple, pineapple), oatmeal cookies (a favorite), pumpkin muffins, pancakes, French toast, scrambled eggs, Johnny cakes, sausage slices, sliced bread and pastries, yogurt, “cakes,” a fried bread with and without melted savory cheese spread. It was also possible to order eggs any style and hot oatmeal or Cream of Wheat. Lunch, served between 12 noon and 3 p.m. was plated. I enjoyed the Chicken Ginger Wrap made with shredded chicken, ginger sauce, lettuce, carrots, onions and wrapped in a chick pea shell. It was served with two slices of tasty fried ripe plantain.

Amenities There was a carafe of spring water in the mini refrigerator, umbrella, flashlight (essential to see the steps to my cottage at night), fresh flower arrangement, hammock on the balcony, tissue paper and liquid soap, body lotion, and shampoo in large refillable bottles. There were local and United States style electrical plugs.

Facilities A main building housing reception, two yoga studios, activities center and souvenir shop. Within the property there were also spa, pool and Pavilion Restaurant facilities.

Pool The swimming pool was one level down from the Pavilion Restaurant and above the pebbled beach (not a swimming beach). It was 26 feet wide by 36 feet long and four feet deep and was made of stone. There were cushioned adjustable lounge chairs and umbrellas scattered around the pool area. There was an outdoor shower and men and women’s bathrooms nearby that served pool and restaurant guests. A few steps down from the pool there was a lush green garden with an armchair or two that looked rather inviting.

Spa There was a 100 square meter spa with six treatment rooms: three private massage treatment rooms, one treatment room for facials, one treatment room for nail care and one couples massage room. Massages, facials and nail care therapies incorporating natural techniques and ingredients were on offer by appointment.

In lieu of a fitness center the hotel encouraged guests to remain outdoors and take advantage of the “natural jungle gym.”’ A boot camp program was available several times a year.

During my stay I had three pleasant spa treatments. First, I had an hour long Tres Forte Massage described as a deep tissue massage in the spa menu, and a 30-minute Pied Mol relaxing foot massage one day. The following day Glenda gave me a lovely one hour Jungle Bay Massage.

When I arrived at the spa for my 10 a.m. appointment the door was closed and no one was around. I used the spa phone to call reception. A minute later Fiona from reception called me back to say Onika, the therapist, was running late and would arrive in 10 minutes. She asked that I return to my cottage and Onika would call me when she was ready. A few minutes later she called.

Onika used coconut oil for the 50-minute Tres Forte Massage, more of a light deep tissue massage with emphasis on the upper arms and thighs including feet, neck, shoulders, and hands. Within the treatment room I could clearly hear the sound of the waves. The open windows brought in a cooling ocean breeze and a beautiful view of the ocean.

My 4:30 p.m. foot massage was soothing and just what I needed after an afternoon hike to Victoria Falls. Noreen soaked my feet in warm water in a wood bowl for a couple of minutes before asking me to lie down. She turned on the fan to cool down the room before rubbing melted coconut butter on both feet then began (and later ended) the treatment with a gentle massage of both feet at the same time. She covered my left foot with a towel and massaged my right foot first and then covered my right foot and massaged my left foot. The gentle stroking motions left me in a subtle slumber.

What I liked most about the spa was the water facing hillside location, treatment rooms with large open windows and friendly staff with a pleasant demeanor and a gentle disposition. Sounds carried within the spa. I could hear the phone ring, voices in the nearby rooms and the conversations of guests popping into schedule a treatment.

The decor was simple though attractive within the wood building. When I lay face down for my massage there were pretty flowers in a bowl; when I lay face up for the foot massage a handsome rattan fan drew my gaze. Always there was the sound of the surf and the occasional gentle breezes floating off the water.

Conference Facilities The hotel meeting facilities included 2,400 square foot stone and hardwood floor meeting space with views of the Atlantic Ocean, 2,400 square foot open air veranda for receptions, meals and buffet service for up to 150 people, and 1,000 square foot hardwood break out meeting room. There were 110 and 220 volt electrical systems, public address system, podium, LCD projector and screen. Business facilities offered wireless internet connectivity in the main building, fax machine, photocopiers and printers, as well as two computers with internet connection.

Other The hotel purchased as many supplies as possible from 40 vendors in the neighboring villages.

The hotel had been recognized with the 2011 and 2010 Dominica Tourism Board and Hotel Association Responsible Tourism Award, 2010 Virgin Holidays Responsible Tourism Award for Highly Commended Best Accommodation for Local Communities, and 2009 Islands Magazine Responsible Travel Blue List. Sam was recognized with the 2010 Virgin Holidays Responsible Tourism Award Best personal contribution to responsible tourism.

Responsible And Green Tourism I liked the resort’s eco-friendly mission, “to enhance the natural environment and improve the livelihood of surrounding communities so that the region is improved in a sustainable way, while providing quality, comfortable nature-based experiences for our guests.”

Practices included: construction utilizing used wood and discarded stone from an old mining quarry; elevating its 35 rooms on wooden posts beneath the tree canopy to minimize disturbance of the soil; relying on local staff for the manufacture of furnishings with local materials; designing the rooms to rely on natural ventilation in the hope of eliminating the need for air conditioning (it was rather hot in my room at times) to reduce energy consumption; purchasing locally made goods and services; reduction of excess packaging to reduce waste; serving 95 percent locally grown organic food without pesticides or chemicals; serving local cuisine to encourage travelers to try new meals and showcase the traditional island recipes to make staff proud of their culture; using food waste for composting; using on-demand gas heaters to reduce energy consumption; relying on water from an on site spring fed stream; striving to manage waste and energy use to limit the disturbance of the local ecosystem; training local guides in responsible travel techniques; recycling glass bottles; working with school children from nearby villages to reduce the chance of sea turtles being poisoned or strangled by trash; and educating local communities about sea turtle conservation.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Review July 2011

Reviewers

Photos and Article by Elena del Valle

Service My room was serviced daily. Johanna and Fiona at the front desk were helpful and pleasant; Justinian and Danna at the restaurant introduced themselves and showed interest in my visit. They both took time to ask if I enjoyed the meals and how I liked the island. Justinian was especially helpful. Glenda and Sam were interested hosts with a contagious enthusiasm. When I asked for extra water it was delivered shortly after I requested it. The flowers I had left atop the minibar (picked up during a visit to the Carib village) for lack of a vase and not wanting to be a bother were integrated into the existing flower arrangement and a second flower arrangement was added to fit all the flowers. I enjoyed Glenda’s beginner yoga class as a gentle way to stretch and start the day. Justine, my guide on a river hike, was quiet and ready to lend a helping hand when I faltered because of strong currents and high water while crossing the river.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression We arrived in Saint Lucia in the early afternoon excited to be back in the Caribbean and looking forward to a week of rest and relaxation under the tropical sun. As we exited immigration and customs at the airport a young Saint Lucian stood inconspicuously with our names on a sign. Following cursory introductions he led us across the small parking lot to his vehicle. Ninety minutes of cautious driving in his air conditioned minivan, organized by the hotel at our request, found us at Cotton Bay Village, a family friendly secluded and gated 9.6 acre property on the northern end of the island. The beachfront resort, named for the cotton plants that grow within, was built around a mangrove forest.

After passing through security we arrived at Villa 45, which was to be our home away from home for the duration of our stay. August, one of two butlers who looked after guests in Villa 45, showed us around and took care of the check-in formalities in the Villa’s dining room. Before leaving he made sure we had internet connectivity and beach towels. He also organized a rental car for the next day (we were pleased when the rental car company brought the car to our drive way the following morning).

Villa 45 was one of 11 stand alone houses of this type on the property which also offered hotel accommodations. The new looking $1.5 million 2,500 square foot stand alone structure faced north and was four Villas away from the beach. It had three bedrooms, three full en suite bathrooms and two half bathrooms, a walled backyard and garden with lounge chairs and a covered area for shade, a small swimming pool, a Jacuzzi, a gazebo and a fully equipped kitchen. Unfortunately, due to water restrictions when we were there, the pool was not completely filled and the Jacuzzi was not usable.

We enjoyed our stay at the new looking, comfort oriented and spacious villa with high speed WiFi. The villa with self catering facilities allowed us the comforts of a home and the advantages of a secure gated hotel. Other pluses of our stay at Cotton Bay Village included its Villa butler service, the proximity to Rodney Bay, secluded privacy, and hotel facilities (including a deli and two restaurants) and easy access to a beach.

Children There were many children at Cotton Bay Village. Nearly every family or group we encountered during our week long stay included at least one child and often several children. Cotton Bay Village welcomed children of all ages with babysitting and nanny service, a crèche, and the Hummingbird Kids Club for children ages 3 to 12. Teens and tweens were welcome to use the resort computers, games station, and pool table. Some staff were trained in Montessori care.

Class Of Accommodation A luxury rental villa within a secluded hotel complex that was the only member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World association on the island.

Connectivity There was complimentary high speed WiFi in the Villa. The connection was reliable (never dropped during our weeklong stay). We were told there was also complimentary high speed WiFi around the pool and the beach restaurant.

General Manager Michael Mathius

Handicapped Access According to a property representative, “We do not offer any specific features for blind or deaf guests. Some of our rooms are wheelchair accessible, but our fine dining restaurant is not.”

Length Of Stay Seven nights

Location Near the town of Gros Islet on the upper northeastern corner of the island, about ninety minutes by car from the international airport.

Managed Cotton Bay Limited

Owned Cotton Bay Village was owned by World Wide Hospitality Services and Villa 45 was owned John Butt.

Pets Allowed No

Size The hotel had 74 rooms and Villas within a 9.6 acre property with 105 employees. The 2,500 square foot (3,500 square feet including the outer areas) villa with a plunge pool, Jacuzzi and gazebo had three bedrooms with en suite bathrooms, two half bathrooms (indoor and outdoor), a living room, dining room and full kitchen.

Year Opened-Renovated Villa 45 was built in 2005 and became available for guest stays in 2006. According to a company representative “regular maintenance and upkeep work is carried out on an ongoing basis.”

Hotel Lobby And Common Areas Cotton Bay Village, divided into hotel accommodations and stand alone houses, had been built around a mangrove. Parts of the original mangrove remained in the middle section adjoining the beach and to one side of the walled property. On the other side, the one adjoining our Villa wall, there was a public unpaved road used heavily by locals on the weekend. A security guard always seemed to be at the gate while uniformed guards walked through the estate and beach environs. The décor had an eclectic style, blending traditional Caribbean features with modern elements. There were original lithographs of Caribbean musicians at Piano Piano restaurant and there was original artwork in the spa.

Villa Common Areas Our house accommodations were outstanding. The building itself was spacious and attractive with a number of desirable features we greatly appreciated such as a walled yard, private plunge pool (and Jacuzzi), excellent air conditioning in the bedrooms, and excellent WiFi connection. And, it was very convenient to have a kitchen.

A pebbled driveway led a step up to a covered entrance with double wood doors. Inside, a foyer housed a small table. The dining and living rooms were straight in front of the entrance in a single area with a high ceiling,two fans and a chandelier.

Villa 45 had three bedrooms with en suite bathrooms, a half bathroom indoors and a half bathroom outdoors, a walled backyard with a deck, covered area for shade, six wood adjustable (and comfortable) lounge chairs, two additional wood armchairs with foot rests, two tables with chairs, a small swimming pool, a Jacuzzi, a gazebo and flowering plants peppered throughout the garden. A spiral staircase let to a rooftop area that had two additional lounge chairs and a north view to the neighboring field. Although the rooftop also had a view of the bay and part of the beach because of the blistering daytime heat (there was no shade on the rooftop) and the mosquitoes at night we did not make use of the area. We could walk to the beach in a couple of minutes from the front door of our Villa.

The Villa had eggshell color large tile flooring to match its tall walls except in the bedrooms where there was wood flooring and standard ceilings; and the bathrooms which had marble tiles on the floor and part of the walls. Framed artwork including numbered reproductions graced the walls. Artificial flower arrangements were scattered throughout. The three bedrooms had individual and very efficient air conditioning units with digital wall controls which remained on all the time during our stay, providing a constant refuge from the stifling tropical heat whenever needed. The rest of the house had no air conditioning; the temperature was controlled by opening the windows in the kitchen, living area and entrance to allow a cross breeze. In the backyard the shady area was comfortable through the day thanks to a regular easterly breeze.

To lower the hot and steamy temperature we opened the sliding French doors that opened on to the back deck and one of the entrance doors. What we sacrificed in privacy (neighbors passing by within the property could see into the house from the drive) we made up for in comfort. The cooling north south breeze made it possible for us to enjoy the living and dining room and have uninterrupted access to the deck and garden area of the Villa during the day. It was possible to leave the doors open until the early evening when mosquitoes began to arrive. At that time, we closed the doors and retreated to our air conditioned bedrooms.

The dining room had a glass covered round wood table with six armless wood chairs cushioned on the seat and back. The table sat atop a round Persian carpet. In the corner, facing the living room, there was a cabinet that housed an LG flat screen TV, Toshiba DVD player and Sharp sound system with speakers. On the opposite corner of the dining room, there was a small rectangular glass covered table and armless cushioned chair. We used the table, which faced a large round wood framed mirror, for our computer and as a desk. There were several telephones around the house: one on the table, others in the bedrooms and kitchen. A few framed paintings hung on the walls. There were also two small tables set against the wall and one in the far corner of the living area. A large wood giraffe stood, against the wall like a silent sentinel, between the living and dining areas. Three wicker and wood beige sofas, cushioned and comfortable with pillows, were set around a glass covered square wood coffee table in the center of the living area.

The kitchen, to the left of the entrance, perhaps because we initially left the windows closed to keep mosquitoes out, was the warmest room in the house. Although we cooked infrequently, we purchased groceries and took advantage of the kitchen to make snacks and small meals. It was very convenient to have the well equipped kitchen. It had: double door Admiral refrigerator freezer, Neff microwave oven, Siemens washer and dryer, Whirlpool dishwasher (staff hand washed our dirty dishes because of water restrictions), stove and dual (two separate sections) conventional oven, blender, hot water pitcher, coffee maker, pots and pans, silverware, dinnerware, cutlery, and glassware.

Past the kitchen and down a short hallway was one of the bedrooms. It housed two identical closet areas facing each other followed by a sleeping area taken up by a four poster king bed with night tables. A vanity with a chair was across from the bed and an armchair with a footrest took up the corner. Next to it there was a flat screen television in the corner. Sliding glass French doors, identical to those in the living room and second master bedroom, led to the backyard.

Bathroom All three bathrooms had black and white marble tile on the floor and part of the walls. Bathroom One had twin sinks set on green marble below two square framed mirrors, a water closet and an extra large square shower with four wall shower heads and a glass door. Bathroom Two was very similar in size to Bathroom One although the layout varied. Bathroom Three thought slightly smaller was similar to the other two.

Rooms Inside the Villa, there was a split plan. One bedroom was on the left and to the right there was half a bathroom and two other full size bedrooms across the hall from each other. Each bedroom had an en suite bathroom. We were in the two rooms that faced the pool.

My room (Room One) was the length of the house and had wood furniture: a blond wood king bed with matching night tables, a vanity across the bed with a large mirror on the wall above it and a Sharp flat screen 18 inch television on a table next to it.There were two closet spaces across from each other with ample hanging and storage space in each and one electronic safe. On the other side of the room was the bathroom.

My travel partner’s room (Room Two) also had wood furniture: a king bed framed by matching night tables. Across from the bed there was a vanity with a mirror and armless chair. Next and above the vanity there was a Sharp flat screen 18 inch television hanging on the wall and below it to here was a Toshiba DVD player. Across the room a wide opening led to a closet area with sliding shuttered doors painted white. To the left, was the bathroom. French doors in both of our rooms led to the pool area.

A third bedroom had twin beds next to each other and set against a fuchsia accented headboard between matching night tables. A large window faced the front yard, filling the room with light. Across from the bed there was a vanity with an armless chair, a phone and a mirror. To the right of the entrance there was a walk in space with a closet in the rear. To the left of the entrance there was a bathroom.

Food And Restaurants Although sometimes we enjoyed the freedom to eat at our leisure in the Villa we made time to sample meals at the property’s two restaurants, Beach Club 14° 16°, the informal restaurant by the beach, and Piano Piano, the elegant dining restaurant. It had an air conditioned Champagne bar and a formal dining room. The restaurant relied on local organic produce and fresh local seafood in a menu that was a “fusion of Caribbean and Mediterranean flavors” and the bar offered tapas and a Champagne Cocktail menu. Yes, there was a piano although no one played the night we dined there. My travel partner had foie gras with pears (a favorite) for his first course, curry shrimp for a main course and banana dessert; I had Caribbean bisque, Red snapper sauteed and a lovingly made chocolate dessert which was chilled and in the shape of a piano.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner were also served at Beach Club 14° 16°. Breakfast was a combination buffet (sliced fruit, cheese platter, boxed cereals and one granola option, self service toaster with sliced bread and other bread options). Dinner was pleasant thanks for the cooling ocean breeze.

The Bruschetta Deli sold sandwiches, pastries, fresh produce and souvenir items. On more than one occasion we visited the deli in search of a soft drink and snacks.

Amenities There were two bathrobes per suite, facial tissues, bedroom air conditioning with individual thermostat, electronic safes in the Villa bedrooms, complimentary bottled water on arrival, blow dryers, linen including beach/pool towels, and complimentary use of kayaks by the beach. There were also made in China Sea Kelp toiletries in our bathrooms: shower cap, shoe mitt, soap and toiletries in 100 milliliter plastic bottles of shampoo, conditioner, bath gel and body lotion. There were several phones (the ring was muted and if we weren’t next to phone it was hard to hear): one in the living/dining area, one in the kitchen and one each in the bedrooms. The sound system could be heard by the pool thanks to outside speakers.

Beach From our house front door we followed a paved road, a minute’s walk away, onto a wood elevated walkway. It led directly to the beach and continued to the hotel’s beach bar and restaurant. We liked the beach for its local flavor. It was shared by hotel guests and locals. The presence of locals was especially noticeable on the weekends. The area fronting the hotel had two rows of lounge chairs tightly squeezed together. There were lots of striped blue and white towels on two self service racks. A constant breeze and gentle surf rocked the beach which was more murky than clear and frequently peppered with copious quantities of seaweed. Tours of horse riders (a strong horse scent followed) came by twice daily, in the mornings and afternoons, leaving horse manure in their wake. Over the course of the morning a hotel representative cleaned the seaweed and horse manure. We also met islanders who brought their dogs along for a beach walk.

Generally, locals swam to one side, the one with the gentlest surf, and hotel guests remained in front of the hotel area. The drawback at the beach was the limited shade available. There were two small areas with shade. To one side there was a large tent with several cushioned sofas and loveseats. While we were there, this area was commandeered from early morning until sunset by families with small children (apparently because the kiddie pool was out of commission). There was one additional shaded area with space for two loungers. With the exception of one other couple we saw during our week long stay the guests we saw at the beach were all families with small children.

Because of the limited shade on the beach we spent the majority of our time in the shady area of our Villa and went for early morning and early evening beach walks. A two-minute walk from the hotel area there was a beach restaurant and bar. Locals spent time in that part of the beach, especially on the weekend when the sounds of trucks with locals and island music reached our pool area well into the evening.

Facilities Piano Piano Restaurant and Champagne Lounge, Beach Club 14 degrees 61 degrees restaurant and bar, Heaven Spa, Hummingbird Kid’s Club (it seemed closed during our visit), Bruschetta The Deli (open 9 a.m. to 12 and 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. daily), outdoor swimming pool and children’s pool.

Fitness Center And Spa There was a 1,304 square foot work out area with Life Fitness Fit Series Machines: one Multi Press; one Lat and Row; Leg Press and Calf Press; Leg Curl and Extension; Bicep and Triceps; Nautilus: two Treadmills and two Bicycles; Schwinn: one Rowing Machine; Quantum: Power Crunch 1200 – 2000 power crunch machine; Life Fitness: Free weights between 20 pounds and 65 pounds and TKO: Free weights between 3 pounds and 25 pounds. There was a separate 9,690 square foot spa housing four dry and wet treatment rooms, private couples suite with private grotto and pool, two outdoor treatment cabanas, steam room, Rasul, Vichy shower, beauty salon for hair and nails and an indoor saline pool.

Pool In addition to the outdoor and children’s (it was not working during our stay) pools there was a four-foot deep partially filled plunge pool in our Villa. The staff explained that the water level was maintained low because of a drought on the island.

Other The lush green of the islands was muted during our visit. We heard from the hotel staff that the island was in the middle of a drought that had been plaguing it for several months. As a result we were asked to conserve water (instead of running the dishwasher the staff washed the few plates we dirtied); also the Villa plunge pool and Jacuzzi were only partly full.

The number of guests increased significantly on Friday. This was noticeable in the availability of our butlers (where they had checked on us in our Villa daily earlier in the week starting Saturday we barely saw them if we ran into them while walking around the property and once when one of them returned to reply to a question I had asked), the number of guests in the dining room; the amount of traffic on the road adjacent to our Villa (a public dirt road ran next to back wall of our Villa) as well as the music and noise we could hear from the beach area adjacent to our hotel. Although it was noticeable compared to the quiet during the week we still enjoyed time in the backyard.

According to a hotel representative, the property engaged in a number of green practices including promoting and selling local tours and attractions with special recognition of Green tours at the tour desks; inviting local craft vendors to the hotel once per week to display and sell their craft items; Village staff determined suitability of new product before making any purchases and provided full training for staff whenever new chemicals or equipment were purchased for use in the hotel; there were waste disposal practices and procedures in place at the hotel such as recycling of linen and bed spreads, food, office paper, and packages; the property used energy-saving timers on electrical equipment such as Jacuzzi blowers, steam rooms at the spa, outdoor lighting for walkways, and refrigeration equipment in the kitchens; the staff monitored total water use on property (pools, guestrooms, kitchen, dining room and garden areas); and team members participated in workshops and seminars conducted by an environmental committee, local government organizations, and also by non-governmental environmental organizations.

Cotton Bay Village was voted Saint Lucia’s top hotel for spa and relaxation in the Trip Advisor Travellers’ Choice Awards 2010. Cas en Bas, the beach at Cotton Bay Village, was named by British Airways High Life magazine as one of The 50 Best Beaches In The World (April 2010)

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review April 2010

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service The Villa rental included two butlers, August (pronounced oh-geese) and Surage (sir – ahge). August made sure we had high speed Internet WiFi and a converter (there were only 220 plugs in the Villa) the same afternoon we arrived. He also coordinated a car rental for the following morning. The rental company brought the car directly to our Villa and picked it up from our driveway the day the rental expired. Later he lent us a music CD.

The Villa was cleaned thoroughly every morning. August asked that we not run the dishwasher to conserve water because of the drought restrictions at the hotel. Instead when he was working he would pop in to would wash any dirty dishes we had or if the cleaning lady arrived first she took care of them. We saw a pool maintenance person twice. After we settled in our butlers checked in with us occasionally. In the evenings, a staff person would spray the bedrooms with insect repellent.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression We arrived at The Jalousie Plantation, a four star family friendly property nestled amid 100 acres of pristine rainforest in the valley between Saint Lucia’s UNESCO World Heritage-listed twin volcanic peaks commonly known as the Pitons, after driving from the northern tip of the island in search of the hotel’s gourmet fare, in the afternoon. After parking our rental car near reception, we boarded one of the property’s shuttle vans which dropped us off at the round point of our cluster of eight villas. From there we walked a short distance slightly down hill to suite 503.

From the comfort of our newly renovated luxury one-bedroom suite we had a front row view of Forbidden Beach, Anse de Pitons bay and its iconic pitons. While we were temped to explore the beach, the lure of the quiet suite and plunge pool was strong. We postponed our beach visit until the following morning and awaited the sunset in the privacy of our deck, relaxing for a while before our much anticipated gourmet dinner.

At 7:20 p.m. we walked to the entrance of our cluster to await a shuttle. After a few minutes we joined another 10 guests in the shuttle on their way down the steep road to the reception building and restaurants. Within the van beads of sweat gathered on the face of several jacket wearing guests in the sweltering Caribbean heat of the early evening. Mercifully after a few minutes we arrived at reception and made a beeline to the Cane Bar, a modern looking and well air conditioned area adjacent to the restaurant, to kill time before dinner (our reservations were for 8 p.m. sharp). Although there was an attractive open terrace we choose to remain indoors as a kind gesture to the men (jackets were required in the open air dining room) in our group and to avoid mosquitoes. We were among the first to arrive and had the bar to ourselves. The barman took our order with alacrity and a few minutes later found us chatting and sipping the bar’s specialty drinks. Soon it was time for the serious business of dinner. Executive Chef Cupertino Ortiz and his staff delivered a delicious, well presented and well prepared tasting menu.

Although sunrise was accompanied by rain, we armed ourselves with an umbrella from our suite and went out in search of transport. After a few minutes wait under the umbrella a shuttle stopped en route to pick up other guests at the top of the hill who, on second thought, decided not to go down to breakfast in the rain. At breakfast, we ran into Chef Ortiz and complimented him on the previous night’s meal, the reason for our visit.

The Jalousie was undergoing a major renovation designed to result in a branding and name change. We enjoyed our overnight stay at The Jalousie Plantation, especially the handsome newly renovated suite with a marvelous view and plunge pool, and meals. We will consider returning when the renovation and rebranding of the estate property are complete.

Children Yes, all ages.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury four star hotel

Concierge Marcus Joseph and Theresa Blaize

Connectivity Although there was supposed to be high speed WiFi in our suite it didn’t work. We asked reception and they sent our butler who checked and determined the signal was too far from the suite. He said someone would get back to us the next day. By the time we checked out no one mentioned the WiFi connectivity. According to a hotel representative, plans were in place for all suites to be hard wired with ADSL connections.

General Manager Andre Boersma

Handicapped Access According to a property representative, “Due to the hilly nature of the site, Jalousie is not recommended for those with physical impediments or who are wheelchair bound.”

Length Of Stay One night

Location A few minute’s drive south of the town of Soufriere.

Managed Viceroy Hotel Group

Owned Roger Myers

Pets No

Size The property had 12 rooms and 100 “villas” within a 100 acre estate. There were 280 staff members employed at the hotel.

Year Opened-Renovated The property, created by Persian Prince-Abolfath Mahvi, opened in 1991 on an estate first “discovered” by Lord Glenconner. Renovations were on-going; a $100 million enhancement project was taking place while we were there in preparation for the rebranding and relaunching of the property as The Tides Sugar Beach in 2011. Our suite, described by one of the staff as one of the most sought after on the property, opened December 23, 2009.

Lobby And Common Areas The decorative style was described as Plantation Elegant featuring works by contemporary artists Carlos Mercado and Neil Moore and local art by Jonathan Gladding. Most of the artwork was hand selected by the owner. The hotel, part of the large estate, was built on the hill facing the bay. Sleeping quarters (ours was called a villa) were set up on clusters starting on the south side of the beach beginning at the bottom, near the beach, and winding up the steep hill. Each cluster had a name: Coconut Grove Trees, Tamarind Turn, Banana Tree Grove, Orange Blossom Hill, Ginger Lily Walk (ours), Star Fruit Way, Papaya Patch, Passion Fruit Hamlet and Coffee Bean Bend.

The lobby, reception, boutique and gift shop, Cane Bar and Late Night Bar, and The Great Room Restaurant were in a central area part way up the hill and across from the Sugar Mill Rooms. The swimming pool, Bayside Restaurant, water sports and scuba diving area and beach were a short shuttle van ride away down the hill. The Rainforest Walk, a hiking trail, was behind the Sugar Mill Rooms. Past the trail and up the hill to the north there was a fitness center, tennis courts and a spa.

Bathroom There were two bathrooms in our suite: One in the living area with a glass door shower and a master bath en suite. The spacious master bathroom had twin sinks, water closet with bidet, a roll-top Victorian bath and a luxuriously large double walk-in shower.

Room We stayed in suite 503, a Grand Luxury Villa Ocean View one bedroom suite, within the Ginger Lily Walk cluster of eight bay facing suites. The white interior was accented by old Caribbean photography on the walls and dark wood flooring. A king four poster bed with mosquito netting drawn over it at night, framed by identical night tables, occupied the center of the room. There was also a small wall facing desk with an armless chair, and a large white cabinet housing a large television. There was a comfortable armchair with foot rest across from the bed next to a large window with a lovely view of the bay.

There was a white convertible sofa in the adjacent living room which housed a second white cabinet with a large television and DVD player. Across the room from the cabinet there was a wet bar with a mini refrigerator and hot beverage service. The bay-facing suite had 1,068 square feet of interior space and an additional 800 square feet of exterior deck and pool area. A hallway on the opposite side of the bedroom from the living area led to an exterior door to the deck area. In the middle of the hallway, on the right, there was a double sided walk through closet with an electronic safe. The deck and pool area could also be reached from the entrance of the suite.

Food And Restaurants The night we arrived we dined at the hotel’s gourmet restaurant, The Great Room, and the following morning we had breakfast at the Bayside Restaurant, the beachfront restaurant. Both meals were well prepared and well served. The Great Room, opened September 2009, had seating for 85 guests within 1,900 square feet of interior space and 976 square feet on the outside terrace where we dined.

Executive Chef Cupertino Ortiz, a quiet and purposeful man, prepared a lovely tasting menu for our table of five. Just before dinner we visited the Cane Bar where I ordered a sampler of three St. Lucia rums, one white and two aged rums (Element 8 Silver, Chairman’s Reserve and Admiral Rodney).

Dinner began with a selection of breads, whole wheat, olive herb and baguette to accompany an olive tapenade. Soon a well chilled non vintage Piper Heidsieck arrived. Next, we had Chilled cucumber and avocado soup, with a fritter of fresh crab and salmon roe paired with a 2007 Australian Rosemont Diamond Sauvignon Blanc; Tuna carpaccio on a bed of avocado; Pan fried Mahi-Mahi served on a puree of creamed cauliflower with roasted cherry tomatoes and a glass of Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon from California; Seared beef tenderloin topped with Roquefort and served on a puree of garlic potatoes and grilled asparagus which was served with a 2003 St. Helena, California Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon; and rounded up the meal with a Traditional Sweet corn tamale with a crème Anglaise sauce and almond praline served with a glass of French Chateau Haut Valentin Cadillac Manon from Bordeaux.

Amenities High thread count Egyptian cotton linens, voile draping, walk through closet, iPod docking station, complimentary internet access, two large flat screen satellite televisions, DVD player, mini refrigerator (could be stocked on request), tea and coffee making facilities which consisted of an espresso machine and kettle for tea (there were no coffee cartridges in our suite), a bottle of water on arrival, an in-room electronic safe, bathroom amenities (made-in-the-U.S. Lady Primrose shower gel, two types of soap, shampoo, conditioner, and body lotion), bathrobes, personalized butler service (the line to the butler rang busy continuously the three or four times we called), oversize private plunge pool and private patio, air-conditioned living room with pull-out sofa bed, and direct dial telephone.

Facilities There were two restaurants, two bars, spa, beach, water sports and dive center.

Fitness Center And Spa There was a Multi-System Gym with cardiovascular equipment in the fitness area. The spa had seven treatment rooms, sauna, Jacuzzi, and relaxation deck. A new spa was under construction.

Pool In addition to our private suite infinity plunge pool with two lounge chairs and an umbrella, there was a common area infinity pool 4.5 feet deep, and 12 feet long by 6 feet wide.

Other There were many mosquitoes in our suite when we arrived. In spite of how we set the air conditioning in the two rooms of the suite the temperature remained between 26 and 28 Celsius. Although the plunge pool level seemed ideal when we arrived, the following morning the water level had dropped about 30 percent. Our butler indicated he thought the timer had switched off. A short while after we mentioned it to him the pool level was back to normal.

The hotel was named Leading Hotel on the island by the 2009 World Travel Awards. At the time of our visit fish was delivered directly to the hotel jetty by fishermen from the nearby villages.

In terms of responsible tourism and social responsibility, the management had policies in place and plans for future updates to the property to stimulate employment and protect the environment. Each of the villa clusters had a water meter which allowed maintenance staff to detect and repair leaks to the lines quickly, before much water loss could occur. The hotel policy was to encourage guests to re-use towels and change their linens every third day, rather than every day, to save water usage in the laundry. In terms of waste management, the hotel was in the process of setting up a large garden where organic waste from the property could be used as compost.

The management attempted to keep plastic and other non-compostable waste to a minimum. The executive staff worked closely with the Piton Management Area, the Soufriere Foundation and the Soufriere Marine Management Area to ensure the land resources and the important reef ecosystems off the hotel beach are protected for future generations. According to a spokesperson, the owner of the hotel is committed to preserving the environmental integrity of the Val des Pitons, and the hotel operating company endeavors to ensure that activities do not have an undue impact.

The management worked with local boat operators to ensure they monitor and control the number of outside guests they bring to Anse des Pitons to prevent damage from over utilization of the delicate coral structures and marine life in the National Marine Reserve.

The primary contribution to the local economy was from the salaries and wages paid to the predominantly local work force, about 95 percent of the staff at the time of our visit were St Lucian. According to a hotel representative, the hotel regularly donates to community concerns, scholarship programs and training initiatives to develop the talent of young people in Soufriere and its environs.

Cleanliness Excellent (although there was a brief yet pungent odor the morning of our departure in the master bathroom)

Date Of Review April 2010

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Would You Stay There Again? Yes