Overall Impression The history of Japan reveals a seesaw battle of power between the east and west areas of the country. The Imperial court moved from Kyoto in the west to present day Tokyo in the east. The rivalry between Osaka, western Japan’s major city, and Tokyo, the eastern capital, fumes to this day although never rising anywhere near fisticuffs. Located in the middle is Gifu Prefecture, the heart of central Japan. The Nakasendo Road and other trade routes between east and west Japan had passed through here. It is a strategic area that samurai lords always valued. In Gifu’s Takayama city lies Wanosato, a lovely and luxurious ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn. I recently experienced a most soothing stay at Wanosato far beyond the warfare and tension of the past. The property charmed me with its excellent service, beautiful scenery and art, and delectable meals.

Out of the dozen or so ryokans I have encountered in Japan, Wanosato was of one of the best I have stayed in. The inn, although recently built, was modeled after old traditional Japanese architecture of the area: houses called minka (house of the people) with thatched roofs called gassho-zukuri (praying hands style) and earthen walls. The property had four cottages to choose from. I stayed in the main building that also contains wonderful public baths and a lobby area with a traditional hearth in its center. Here I relaxed, dined, bathed, and appreciated outstanding examples of a variety of Japanese arts.

Dinner and breakfast were provided, as is customary at ryokans. I was served fine Japanese cuisine that included locally grown mountain vegetables and fish caught only hours before in the Miya River. At every dinner I indulged in Hida beef, the highest grade of beef in Gifu, an area known for its cow muscle. If fact, Hida beef tasted as delicious as its more famous cousin from Kobe.

The Wanosato service was superb. Although only one staff member I met could communicate in basic English, each and everyone at the inn made me feel at home. I felt as if I were visiting long lost relatives here. Their service sprouted from the heart.

Children The inn welcomed children and child rates were available

Class Of Accommodation Luxury ryokan

General Manager Naoe Kabeya

Handicapped Access No

Internet Connectivity I was able to access the internet with Wanosato’s Wi-Fi network. Although the staff warned me that reception might not be good, and that I might have to go to the lobby for a strong signal, I connected my iPad and MacBook without issue.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location Wanosato is situated in the center of Japan, accessible from the major cities of Tokyo and Osaka. Travel time between Tokyo Station and Wanosato was about five and a half hours. While over five hours of traveling time might sound daunting, I was rewarded with a scenic train ride during the last leg of the trip from Nagoya to Takayama Station. The train meandered around gorgeous terrain, alternating between sleepy towns and majestic mountains. After I arrived at Takayama Station, Wanosato provided a complimentary 20-minute shuttle to the property.

Owned And Managed Yoshihiro Matsuda of Chiyoda-Kankou-company, Ltd.

Pets No

Size The inn employed six staff and had 15 rooms divided among four traditionally styled cottages called minka on a 15,000 square meter property. The main building had six rooms.

Year Opened-Most Recent Renovation Opened in 1992. Although no recent renovations were mentioned, I thought the property was well maintained.

Lobby And Common Areas At first, my footsteps paced onto earthen floors. Above, wood beams, massive and beautiful, spanned the large, rectangular room. At the center of the lobby was an open hearth that Wanosato called Irori. I was checked in there and was welcome to return later in the evening. As I checked in I enjoyed tea, and warmed myself by the fire, whose flames constantly burned during my stay.

The hallmark common area of a ryokan, in my experience, is its public baths. As is usually the case in ryokans, baths were separated by gender. Wanosato staff invited me to visit both when no other guests were using the facilities to appreciate the difference between the two. Here the women’s bath won out: I dipped in two natural stone pools: a piping hot one and a cooler one nearby. The men’s bath was more straightforward, but equally relaxing: it had one large pool encased in a wooden bath. Both baths featured striking views of the Miya River.

Bathroom The bathroom, unlike the rest of the room, was not extra special. However, it was clean and its design elements matched the ryokan’s: lots of wood, earth-toned colors, a calming atmosphere. The four square meter bathroom had a sink, an open wooden shower area that was was not separated by a curtain or a door with a rectangular wooden bathtub immediately next to the shower area, and a Washlet, a high-tech brand of toilet in Japan. Green and brown colors dominated the bathroom decor, and these balanced nicely with exposed wood beams that framed the bathroom. The shower and bath seemed superfluous considering the spectacular public bath facilities in the main complex. It was nice to have the option to bathe privately although I couldn’t imagine myself relaxing in this bath for hours on end reading a book.

Room I stayed in Miyanoma, a spacious room with a breathtaking view, and filled with great examples of Japanese art. It measured 28.5 square meters and was located on the second floor of the main building. It was divided into a sitting room, a main room where I slept, and a bathroom. The main room and sitting room featured views of the Miya River. I felt as if I were staring at a Hokusai print by the famous ukioy-e woodblock print artist, framed by the large windowpanes. Tatami, bamboo reed mats, covered the room while fine samples of Japanese scrolls hung from the walls. It was a natural style of accommodation that made me feel transported back in time. However, the room also had modern conveniences: if it were not for the heating technology in the room, I would have felt very chilly. The room also had two gas heaters, a kotatsu, a heated table with blankets in the sitting room, and heated floors in the main room. There was a medium-sized closet with two yukatas, cotton Japanese robes, a TV, refrigerator with drinks, tea set, electric kettle, telephone, and a Japanese style table near the main window. At night, the staff set out a single sized Japanese futon where I slept. It was soft and comfortable.

Restaurant I took traditional Japanese meals in three different dining rooms of the main building. Each room featured different examples of Japanese arts including beautiful scrolls, ceramics, painted sliding doors, and ikebana, Japanese flower arrangements. My favorite room to dine in was the main dining room that featured several large panoramic views of the Miya River. It was sublime enjoying each bite of food while contemplating the mystery of art and nature that surrounded me.

My first dinner was an 11 course tour of local foods: a yamayasai or mountain vegetable appetizer; sesame tofu with mountain roots; tofu soup with white radish; local Iwana fish with vinegar miso; three succulent slices of Hida beef; yuzu, a Japanese citrus fruit, sorbet; smoked Iwana; manju, a rice-based sweet, with lily root; fried Iwana skin, salmon sashimi wrapped in Yuzu jelly with a rice porridge, and finally strawberries with a citrus jelly and mint leaf for dessert.

The following morning I had a Japanese style breakfast, which usually involves vegetables, rice, fish, and miso soup. Wanosato provided a nice surprise: candle heated miso atop a banana leaf with two bamboo shoots that resembled a small bunny. I also enjoyed julienned apples with a spoonful of jelly and mint leaf on top.

Five courses arrived for my second dinner. I had locally brewed sake and grilled katsuo fish with grated bonito flakes; abalone sashimi; Hida beef nabe, or Japanese hot pot cooking; vegetable tempura, and a fruit with jelly dessert.

The next day, my stomach called for an easy to digest breakfast. The chef knew exactly what to cook and prepared some Japanese healing foods. I had a soothing basic rice porridge with miso soup.

My final dinner was a superb version of Japanese sukiyaki, thin slices of the spectacular Hida beef slowly cooked in a pan with vegetables. With a beautiful array of ingredients including tofu, scallions, Chinese cabbage, konyaku jelly noodles, shitake mushrooms, and onions, Aya Tochimoto, a Wanosato staff member, helped cook the meal. Thinking about each egg soaked bite of beef and vegetables makes my mouth water to this day.

Before I departed Wanosato, my stomach craved Western style foods. The chef obliged and baked croissants, whipped a green tea smoothie, and assembled a fruit plate of strawberries, bananas, apples, yuzu, and mint leaves. My stomach was well comforted before hitting the road.

Amenities Room amenities included two Japanese style bathrobes, slippers, toothbrush, toothpaste, razor set, and hair dryer. Non-branded hand soap, shampoo, and conditioner were also available. The refrigerator had two of each: beer, juice, sake, tea, and a pitcher of water. The tea and water were complimentary. Dinner and breakfast were included with my accommodations.

Facilities There were public baths and a dining room.

Cleanliness Very good. My room was spotless. However the men’s public bath had some small areas of mold and one small eight-legged guest. Considering Wanosato’s proximity to a river I felt this was understandable, and actually added to the natural feeling of the space. Part of the reason I felt so comfortable and relaxed there was because of the cleanliness of the facilities.

Date Of Review February 2012

Reviewers Article and Copyrighted Photos by Joachim Castellano

Service The service at Wanosato was top notch. Although as a non-Japanese speaker I had difficulty communicating at times, not many words were necessary for the staff to anticipate my needs. During my stay I fell ill and it was in part as a result of staff’s warm concern and menu adjustment that I regained strength.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Hidden within the mountains of Izu rests Arcana Izu (the hotel writes it arcana izu all in lowercase letters), a small luxury Japanese hotel that bills itself as an auberge resort with a French influence. The inn, ensconced between the Mount Amagi forest and the Kano River, was designed as an interpretation of the ryokan (a traditional Japanese hotel) concept with modern and Western twists. During my stay, I bathed in an outdoor hot spring within the comfort of my spacious room, and later indulged in some of the finest French cuisine I have sampled in Japan at the hotel’s Lumiere restaurant.

Arcana seemed ideal for couples escaping Tokyo for a romantic weekend or for creative types seeking a luxurious communion with nature. The hotel was designed for guest experiences to be centered upon the guestroom itself. For me, that meant I spent a majority of my time relaxing in my private bath, and sitting on the couch admiring the beautiful view of the forest and the sounds of the gushing river below.

Dinner and breakfast, included in my accommodations, were a special treat. Chef Atsushi Yamamoto and his staff cooked a wonderful variety of dishes that included local fruits, vegetables, and meats. I particularly enjoyed the Izu beef, and the plate of 60 vegetables appetizer. I never imagined that vegetables could be combined and crafted in so many ways, including as utensils!

A dedicated and attentive staff made staying at Arcana Izu especially relaxing. I hardly felt the language barrier, as many in the staff spoke English fluently. I especially enjoyed the thoughtful touches throughout my stay. For example, my butler left me a personable, handwritten note on the coffee table after cleaning my room, asking how my day was and if I had enjoyed my latest meal.

The inn’s reinvention of the traditional ryokan with modern architectural design and French flavors was appealing to me. It tantalized my taste buds and spellbound my soul, a secret I can’t keep for much longer.

Children The hotel welcomed children aged twelve and older only.

Class Of Accommodation Modern luxury ryokan.

General Manager Tomoaki Tabata, president, Dress Co Ltd., was in charge of strategic property decisions. Momoe Nishimura, rooms manager, Arcana Izu was in charge of the day to day management of the property.

Handicapped Access No

Internet Connectivity My room had WiFi and broadband wired internet. Complimentary WiFi internet was available in the restaurant. The hotel planned to expand WiFi to all guest rooms within the next coming months.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location Reaching Arcana Izu was easy using public transportation. This was especially the case for me since I am used to navigating Japan’s public transportation system. From Tokyo Station the trip took me about two hours door to door. First, I took the bullet train from Tokyo Station to Mishima Station (sixty minutes). From there I transferred to the Izu-Hakone Railway line and disembarked at Shuzenji Station (thirty minutes). Finally, a fifteen-minute taxi ride landed me at Arcana Izu.

Owned And Managed Dress Co. Ltd.

Pets No

Size The hotel had sixteen guest rooms divided among three separate three-story buildings on a 4,814 square meter property. A fourth building housed Lumiere, a 32-seat restaurant. There were 30 employees.

Year Opened-Most Recent Renovation Arcana Izu first opened on July 3, 2007.

Lobby And Common Areas There was no lobby area with a typical front desk. The check-in process was in my room. The restaurant’s style matched that of the ryokan’s modern design. It had a concrete and glass exterior, a wood-floored, expansive, rectangular interior, and a massive window with views to the forest and river below.

The consistent design aesthetic of the hotel stood out. The hotel’s buildings had a modern design: the structures, made from stone, concrete, and wood, formed strong lines and blended into the building’s natural setting. Also noteworthy was the hotel’s selection of independent films and art books in the library. Even the well selected, soothing and soulful music billowing from the Bose speakers at breakfast added to the atmosphere.

Bathroom The six square meter bathroom featured a glass-encased shower, one sink, and a Washlet, a brand of toilet famous for its heating and washing features. The shower had a hand-held showerhead with a powerful spray stream. The shower room itself had two glass doors, one leading from the bathroom into the shower room, and another leading to the private hot spring. The hot spring measured 157 centimeters by 97 centimeters with a depth of 60 centimeters. There were plenty of extra towels to encourage multiple trips to the hot spring.

The Thann products, natural cosmetics from Thailand, left my hair especially soft. The hot spring section had a bamboo mat, a wooden stool and a bucket. I found the water temperature a bit fiery at first, but I didn’t feel the need to adjust the temperature using the cold water faucet. I loved taking in the view while dipping in the hot spring. In fact, I totaled about eight separate trips to my own private hot spring!

Room I stayed in the 51 square meter River View Suite 5 with a private open-air hot spring bath. From the front gate, I reached my room on the third floor of the building in about two minutes. I was impressed immediately by the view: door length windows outlined much of the room, including the bathroom and shower. I found it refreshing that there was no television set as no electronic screen could compete with this view. Inside, natural tones, from the furniture to the wood paneled outdoor bath, created a cozy atmosphere. The room included two comfortable Hollywood twin beds with feather pillows and a duvet, a serviceable couch, and a coffee table. There was a standard hotel size closet, a digital thermostat, and several lamps to supplement the ample natural lighting. Two nice touches were the Bose Sound Dock radio and a drawing kit with colored pencils, stationery, and postcards.

Restaurant Lumiere featured a French menu created by Yasushi Kataro, the hotel’s executive chef. I ate four times at Lumiere. The aesthetic matched the modern design of my room: a blending of structure and nature with expansive views of the river and forest. The Lumiere staff were very attentive, and explained each menu course in fluent English. I have a shrimp allergy, and Atsushi Yamamto, chef, Lumiere was able to adjust the menu to my dietary needs.

I dined on an eight course dinner the first night: truffle pudding with tomato and eggplant on top of parmesan cheese chips; marinated white fish with roots and jellies; mushrooms with caramelized cauliflower; fried risotto with sea bass; roasted lamb; a cheese plate; peach with balsamic ice cream and a sesame cookie; followed by herb tea with two pastries.

The following morning, I had a tasting of fruits and vegetables whipped and served in shot glasses with a fresh salad, croissant, and a butter cake. For lunch I ordered a tasty Wagyu beef burger. For dinner, Chef Yamato treated me to the six course Arcana Izu Four Year Anniversary Dinner: sea root soup; an appetizer with 10 types of fish and vegetables; 60 types of vegetables plate; mushroom puree with egg; Izu beef; cinnamon ice cream with sliced fried apples.

Shinjiro Kobayashi, the hotel’s sommelier, guided me through the 12 page wine list. I didn’t feel up for the 1985 Krug that night. For my last meal I had classic French toast with a side of fresh fruit and vegetables. From first bite to last, it was a symphony of tastes and textures, executed flawlessly by the chef and the attentive restaurant staff.

The restaurant was awarded one Michelin Guide star in 2010 and 2011. The entrance to the restaurant had a small library and gift shop where Lumiere condiments and Thann beauty products were sold.

Amenities Room amenities included bathrobes and cotton pajamas, slippers, toothpaste, toothbrush, razor set, hair dryer, cotton swabs, and Thann shampoo, conditioner, and body soap. I used flaked soap to wash my hands. Inside the refrigerator were complimentary Kirin beers, bottled waters, fruit juices, and canned teas. A morning beverage set included an electric kettle, tea cups and glasses, tea and coffee packets.

Facilities The ryokan buildings themselves consisted only of guest rooms. The restaurant, the only common area on the property, included a gift shop and small library from which guests could borrow DVDs, CDs, books, games, and even a Lego set to take back into their rooms. I sampled some of the CDs and was very impressed with the variety of quality CDs available both classic and modern.

Other Arcana Izu was the result of a collaboration between Executive Chef Kataro, Shigeki Hattori, chief executive officer, Graf, and Ryosuke Uehara, a graphic designer.

Cleanliness Very good. Everything was very clean except for some splotches in the carpet near the table, soap stains on a few shower tiles, some light mold on a couple of tiles in the hot spring, and a few cobwebs in the corner of the outdoor wall.

Date Of Review August 2011

Reviewers Article and Copyrighted Photos by Joachim Castellano

Service The service was attentive and efficient. The staff exceeded my own expectations by adding personalized service to the experience. Staff members greeted me by name, and I had my own personal butler who cleaned my room while I was dining, leaving thoughtful handwritten notes each night of my stay. Momoe Nishimura was a particularly gracious host.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Thinking of Japan as a travel destination, Osaka is often overshadowed by Tokyo, a global trendsetting capital and Kyoto, the exemplar of Japan’s rich cultural traditions. However, as locals here will argue, and boast quite loudly, Osaka stands toe-to-toe with not only other Japanese cities but also with other international destinations. Despite its image as a gritty city, Osaka boasts world-class events and exhibitions, distinctive culinary options, a rich history, and a friendly and forthcoming people.

Osaka is Japan’s third largest city (population: 3 million) and its historical center of industrial strength. Osaka’s contributions to the world include the VHS VCR, developed by local electronics giant Panasonic, and conveyor belt sushi. It is a convenient city that offers excellent shopping and cultural amenities. There are traditional arts such as bunraku theater (Japanese puppet plays), kabuki (traditional dance plays), and manzai (stand-up Japanese comedy). Osaka also attracts international exhibitions and artists to its museums and concert and convention halls. Electronics fanatics cannot miss the Den Den Town shopping district, where they can find anything from old video games to used camera lenses in excellent condition.

Osaka is well known for its tasty delights including takoyaki, battered octopus dumplings. People from Osaka will remind visitors that their version of okonomiyaki, Japanese pancake/pizza, is the best in the country. After a night of drinking, kushi-katsu, fried meat and vegetables on a stick, satisfies the severest case of munchies. Visitors can delightfully experience Japan’s contrast between future and past while eating Osaka treats under the towering wall of neon lights over the Dotonbori Bridge or under the imposing ramparts of Osaka Castle.

Osaka is also a convenient hub to explore other areas of interest in Western Japan. Kyoto, Kobe, and Nara are less than an hour away. Each of these cities offers an atmosphere distinct from Osaka. However, any person from Osaka will tell you that their city is the best.

Cost Of Visiting Osaka and Japan are on the expensive side.

Currency Japanese yen

Electrical Current Japan runs on 100v 60 hz. (50 hz in east Japan). Most plugs are the two plug non-polarized (one plug wider than the other) type, so they accommodate most North American appliances.

Health And Vaccinations None.

How To Get There Several international carriers fly directly to Osaka’s Kansai International Airport (KIX), which is about 50 km (30 miles) from the downtown area. From Tokyo, Osaka is a 3.5 hour bullet train ride that cost about 14,000 yen each way at the time of my visit.

Location Osaka is about 520 km (323 miles) away from Tokyo and about 6,425 kilometers (3,992 miles) away from New York City.

Measures Japan uses the metric system.

Money Issues Japan is primarily a cash based society, although major credit cards are accepted at upscale restaurants, hotels, and shopping malls. Otherwise I make sure to have plenty of yen on hand. Yen can be withdrawn from most ATMs at convenience stores although foreign credit cards are not accepted by most ATM machines. I found 7-11 to be the most foreign ATM card friendly as well as Japanese post offices. It was also possible to exchange currency at the airport. Before traveling to Japan, I called my bank ahead of time to ensure that I could withdraw cash internationally.

Technology When it comes to technology Osaka is one of the world’s most advanced cities in the world, with miles of automatic walkways and an army of versatile vending machines. However, like the rest of Japan, public Wi-Fi access points were scarce. It’s also a good idea to carry around a small hand towel as some public bathrooms don’t have paper towels.

Time GMT plus 9

Transportation At the time of my most recent visit, Osaka had an extensive subway system that covered most destinations of interest in the area. It also had several convenient rail lines connecting it to nearby cities including Kyoto, Nara, and Kobe.

Facilities Finding Western style toilets can be a problem. When I needed one, I would go to convenience stores or Western fast food establishments. There are convenience stores everywhere.

Shopping And Souvenirs Electronics and hobby fans won’t want to miss Osaka’s Den Den Town near Namba. Den Den Town is a haven for electronic gadgets, video games, and toys. Hard to find electronic components such as old memory chips or camera lenses may be found here. For luxury brand goods I shop the concentration of luxury stores on Mido-suji street in Shinsaibashi. For less expensive but curious items, I browse the knickknacks in Osaka’s many covered shopping arcades; several can be found near Umeda, Namba, and Tennoji stations.

Tourism Highlights

Osaka Jo Castle, a centuries old castle and the site of several important samurai battles.

Dotonbori Bridge, located at the intersection of the shopping and entertainment areas of Shinsaibashi and Namba, is a great area to find a bite to eat while taking in the city’s atmosphere.

Den Den Town is a haven for electronics, comics, and toy fanatics. I found hard to find goods here for reasonable prices.

Shinsaibashi is home to name brand shopping and nice hotels.

Namba is home to additional shopping and bars.

Date Of Last Visit March 2011

Reviewers Article and photos by Joachim Castellano

Would You Visit This Destination Again? Yes.

Reviewers Article and Copyrighted Photos by Elena del Valle