Out of the dozen or so ryokans I have encountered in Japan, Wanosato was of one of the best I have stayed in. The inn, although recently built, was modeled after old traditional Japanese architecture of the area: houses called minka (house of the people) with thatched roofs called gassho-zukuri (praying hands style) and earthen walls. The property had four cottages to choose from. I stayed in the main building that also contains wonderful public baths and a lobby area with a traditional hearth in its center. Here I relaxed, dined, bathed, and appreciated outstanding examples of a variety of Japanese arts.

Dinner and breakfast were provided, as is customary at ryokans. I was served fine Japanese cuisine that included locally grown mountain vegetables and fish caught only hours before in the Miya River. At every dinner I indulged in Hida beef, the highest grade of beef in Gifu, an area known for its cow muscle. If fact, Hida beef tasted as delicious as its more famous cousin from Kobe.

The Wanosato service was superb. Although only one staff member I met could communicate in basic English, each and everyone at the inn made me feel at home. I felt as if I were visiting long lost relatives here. Their service sprouted from the heart.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury ryokan

General Manager Naoe Kabeya

Handicapped Access No

Internet Connectivity I was able to access the internet with Wanosato’s Wi-Fi network. Although the staff warned me that reception might not be good, and that I might have to go to the lobby for a strong signal, I connected my iPad and MacBook without issue.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location Wanosato is situated in the center of Japan, accessible from the major cities of Tokyo and Osaka. Travel time between Tokyo Station and Wanosato was about five and a half hours. While over five hours of traveling time might sound daunting, I was rewarded with a scenic train ride during the last leg of the trip from Nagoya to Takayama Station. The train meandered around gorgeous terrain, alternating between sleepy towns and majestic mountains. After I arrived at Takayama Station, Wanosato provided a complimentary 20-minute shuttle to the property.

Owned And Managed Yoshihiro Matsuda of Chiyoda-Kankou-company, Ltd.

Pets No

Size The inn employed six staff and had 15 rooms divided among four traditionally styled cottages called minka on a 15,000 square meter property. The main building had six rooms.

Year Opened-Most Recent Renovation Opened in 1992. Although no recent renovations were mentioned, I thought the property was well maintained.

The hallmark common area of a ryokan, in my experience, is its public baths. As is usually the case in ryokans, baths were separated by gender. Wanosato staff invited me to visit both when no other guests were using the facilities to appreciate the difference between the two. Here the women’s bath won out: I dipped in two natural stone pools: a piping hot one and a cooler one nearby. The men’s bath was more straightforward, but equally relaxing: it had one large pool encased in a wooden bath. Both baths featured striking views of the Miya River.

Room I stayed in Miyanoma, a spacious room with a breathtaking view, and filled with great examples of Japanese art. It measured 28.5 square meters and was located on the second floor of the main building. It was divided into a sitting room, a main room where I slept, and a bathroom. The main room and sitting room featured views of the Miya River. I felt as if I were staring at a Hokusai print by the famous ukioy-e woodblock print artist, framed by the large windowpanes. Tatami, bamboo reed mats, covered the room while fine samples of Japanese scrolls hung from the walls. It was a natural style of accommodation that made me feel transported back in time. However, the room also had modern conveniences: if it were not for the heating technology in the room, I would have felt very chilly. The room also had two gas heaters, a kotatsu, a heated table with blankets in the sitting room, and heated floors in the main room. There was a medium-sized closet with two yukatas, cotton Japanese robes, a TV, refrigerator with drinks, tea set, electric kettle, telephone, and a Japanese style table near the main window. At night, the staff set out a single sized Japanese futon where I slept. It was soft and comfortable.

My first dinner was an 11 course tour of local foods: a yamayasai or mountain vegetable appetizer; sesame tofu with mountain roots; tofu soup with white radish; local Iwana fish with vinegar miso; three succulent slices of Hida beef; yuzu, a Japanese citrus fruit, sorbet; smoked Iwana; manju, a rice-based sweet, with lily root; fried Iwana skin, salmon sashimi wrapped in Yuzu jelly with a rice porridge, and finally strawberries with a citrus jelly and mint leaf for dessert.

The following morning I had a Japanese style breakfast, which usually involves vegetables, rice, fish, and miso soup. Wanosato provided a nice surprise: candle heated miso atop a banana leaf with two bamboo shoots that resembled a small bunny. I also enjoyed julienned apples with a spoonful of jelly and mint leaf on top.

Five courses arrived for my second dinner. I had locally brewed sake and grilled katsuo fish with grated bonito flakes; abalone sashimi; Hida beef nabe, or Japanese hot pot cooking; vegetable tempura, and a fruit with jelly dessert.

The next day, my stomach called for an easy to digest breakfast. The chef knew exactly what to cook and prepared some Japanese healing foods. I had a soothing basic rice porridge with miso soup.

My final dinner was a superb version of Japanese sukiyaki, thin slices of the spectacular Hida beef slowly cooked in a pan with vegetables. With a beautiful array of ingredients including tofu, scallions, Chinese cabbage, konyaku jelly noodles, shitake mushrooms, and onions, Aya Tochimoto, a Wanosato staff member, helped cook the meal. Thinking about each egg soaked bite of beef and vegetables makes my mouth water to this day.

Before I departed Wanosato, my stomach craved Western style foods. The chef obliged and baked croissants, whipped a green tea smoothie, and assembled a fruit plate of strawberries, bananas, apples, yuzu, and mint leaves. My stomach was well comforted before hitting the road.

Facilities There were public baths and a dining room.

Date Of Review February 2012

Reviewers Article and Copyrighted Photos by Joachim Castellano

Service The service at Wanosato was top notch. Although as a non-Japanese speaker I had difficulty communicating at times, not many words were necessary for the staff to anticipate my needs. During my stay I fell ill and it was in part as a result of staff’s warm concern and menu adjustment that I regained strength.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Arcana seemed ideal for couples escaping Tokyo for a romantic weekend or for creative types seeking a luxurious communion with nature. The hotel was designed for guest experiences to be centered upon the guestroom itself. For me, that meant I spent a majority of my time relaxing in my private bath, and sitting on the couch admiring the beautiful view of the forest and the sounds of the gushing river below.

Dinner and breakfast, included in my accommodations, were a special treat. Chef Atsushi Yamamoto and his staff cooked a wonderful variety of dishes that included local fruits, vegetables, and meats. I particularly enjoyed the Izu beef, and the plate of 60 vegetables appetizer. I never imagined that vegetables could be combined and crafted in so many ways, including as utensils!

A dedicated and attentive staff made staying at Arcana Izu especially relaxing. I hardly felt the language barrier, as many in the staff spoke English fluently. I especially enjoyed the thoughtful touches throughout my stay. For example, my butler left me a personable, handwritten note on the coffee table after cleaning my room, asking how my day was and if I had enjoyed my latest meal.

The inn’s reinvention of the traditional ryokan with modern architectural design and French flavors was appealing to me. It tantalized my taste buds and spellbound my soul, a secret I can’t keep for much longer.

Class Of Accommodation Modern luxury ryokan.

General Manager Tomoaki Tabata, president, Dress Co Ltd., was in charge of strategic property decisions. Momoe Nishimura, rooms manager, Arcana Izu was in charge of the day to day management of the property.

Handicapped Access No

Internet Connectivity My room had WiFi and broadband wired internet. Complimentary WiFi internet was available in the restaurant. The hotel planned to expand WiFi to all guest rooms within the next coming months.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location Reaching Arcana Izu was easy using public transportation. This was especially the case for me since I am used to navigating Japan’s public transportation system. From Tokyo Station the trip took me about two hours door to door. First, I took the bullet train from Tokyo Station to Mishima Station (sixty minutes). From there I transferred to the Izu-Hakone Railway line and disembarked at Shuzenji Station (thirty minutes). Finally, a fifteen-minute taxi ride landed me at Arcana Izu.

Owned And Managed Dress Co. Ltd.

Pets No

Size The hotel had sixteen guest rooms divided among three separate three-story buildings on a 4,814 square meter property. A fourth building housed Lumiere, a 32-seat restaurant. There were 30 employees.

Year Opened-Most Recent Renovation Arcana Izu first opened on July 3, 2007.

The consistent design aesthetic of the hotel stood out. The hotel’s buildings had a modern design: the structures, made from stone, concrete, and wood, formed strong lines and blended into the building’s natural setting. Also noteworthy was the hotel’s selection of independent films and art books in the library. Even the well selected, soothing and soulful music billowing from the Bose speakers at breakfast added to the atmosphere.

The Thann products, natural cosmetics from Thailand, left my hair especially soft. The hot spring section had a bamboo mat, a wooden stool and a bucket. I found the water temperature a bit fiery at first, but I didn’t feel the need to adjust the temperature using the cold water faucet. I loved taking in the view while dipping in the hot spring. In fact, I totaled about eight separate trips to my own private hot spring!

Room I stayed in the 51 square meter River View Suite 5 with a private open-air hot spring bath. From the front gate, I reached my room on the third floor of the building in about two minutes. I was impressed immediately by the view: door length windows outlined much of the room, including the bathroom and shower. I found it refreshing that there was no television set as no electronic screen could compete with this view. Inside, natural tones, from the furniture to the wood paneled outdoor bath, created a cozy atmosphere. The room included two comfortable Hollywood twin beds with feather pillows and a duvet, a serviceable couch, and a coffee table. There was a standard hotel size closet, a digital thermostat, and several lamps to supplement the ample natural lighting. Two nice touches were the Bose Sound Dock radio and a drawing kit with colored pencils, stationery, and postcards.

I dined on an eight course dinner the first night: truffle pudding with tomato and eggplant on top of parmesan cheese chips; marinated white fish with roots and jellies; mushrooms with caramelized cauliflower; fried risotto with sea bass; roasted lamb; a cheese plate; peach with balsamic ice cream and a sesame cookie; followed by herb tea with two pastries.

The following morning, I had a tasting of fruits and vegetables whipped and served in shot glasses with a fresh salad, croissant, and a butter cake. For lunch I ordered a tasty Wagyu beef burger. For dinner, Chef Yamato treated me to the six course Arcana Izu Four Year Anniversary Dinner: sea root soup; an appetizer with 10 types of fish and vegetables; 60 types of vegetables plate; mushroom puree with egg; Izu beef; cinnamon ice cream with sliced fried apples.

Shinjiro Kobayashi, the hotel’s sommelier, guided me through the 12 page wine list. I didn’t feel up for the 1985 Krug that night. For my last meal I had classic French toast with a side of fresh fruit and vegetables. From first bite to last, it was a symphony of tastes and textures, executed flawlessly by the chef and the attentive restaurant staff.

The restaurant was awarded one Michelin Guide star in 2010 and 2011. The entrance to the restaurant had a small library and gift shop where Lumiere condiments and Thann beauty products were sold.

Facilities The ryokan buildings themselves consisted only of guest rooms. The restaurant, the only common area on the property, included a gift shop and small library from which guests could borrow DVDs, CDs, books, games, and even a Lego set to take back into their rooms. I sampled some of the CDs and was very impressed with the variety of quality CDs available both classic and modern.

Date Of Review August 2011

Reviewers Article and Copyrighted Photos by Joachim Castellano

Service The service was attentive and efficient. The staff exceeded my own expectations by adding personalized service to the experience. Staff members greeted me by name, and I had my own personal butler who cleaned my room while I was dining, leaving thoughtful handwritten notes each night of my stay. Momoe Nishimura was a particularly gracious host.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Temple outings, walks and explorations of the tourist attractions in the area were sometimes tiring. At the back of my mind I knew if I over did it I had the option to go for a dip in the swimming pool, spend time in one of the spa facilities like the steam room or sauna or, if the occasion called for, it schedule a treatment. During my weeklong stay at the hotel I made daily use of the fitness center and swimming pool and indulged in several spa treatments to rest my feet and prepare for my long journey home.

The cozy spa had all the facilities I might want, a pleasant setting, a variety of treatment options, a reputable product line and friendly staff with a professional attitude and it was steps away from my room. My time and treatments at the spa were just right. The spa facilities and treatments enhanced my already agreeable stay at the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor. The next time I am at the hotel, I will make a point of including spa time in my plans.

Handicapped Access The spa welcomed handicapped guests although there were no special facilities to accommodate individuals with handicaps.

Location At the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor

Managed Raffles Hotels & Resorts

Number Of Staff Twelve

Owned Prince Al-Waleed bin Talal

Size A 318 square meter stand alone building was shared between the fitness center and the spa.

Special Training The Spa manager traveled to to the Raffles Amrita Spa head office for training and received spa product training in Singapore by Dermalogica. Spa therapists received training locally from the Raffles Amrita Spa head office staff and Dermalogica staff.

Treatment Rooms There were five treatment rooms (four single rooms and one double)

Year Opened-Renovated The spa opened in 1997.

Facilities In the same building as the spa there was an air conditioned gym. In front of the spa there was 35 meter outdoor lap pool (said to be the largest in Cambodia), and an outdoor children’s pool. Within the spa there were Jacuzzi, steam room and sauna facilities in the men’s and women’s locker areas. There were also two tennis courts.

Pool Spa guests had access to the hotel 35 meter by 18 meter outdoor lap pool with a depth ranging between 1.2 and 1.5 meters and the 7 meter by 7 meter outdoor children’s pool.

Other The spa was mostly quiet. The afternoon of my last treatment there was a family with a young girl playing loudly in the pool area. My treatment room was adjacent to the pool area and the sounds carried clearly indoors. Eventually I concentrated on the treatment and forgot she was there.

Date Of Review June 2011

Number Of Treatments Three

Reviewers Article and photographs by Elena del Valle

Treatments Experienced The first time I went to the spa I had a 45-minute Reflexology treatment. On another day I indulged in the Angkor Escape (two hours and 25 minutes) designed to “ease away the day’s stress and strains and bring body and mind back into balance.” The therapist used east and west techniques in an aromatic oil massage with warm stones to reduce fatigue, aches and pain. She finished that portion of the treatment with a natural purifying body mask ”to relieve sluggishness and congestion.” Finally, there was a refreshing facial. The session left me intensely relaxed. Vanda, a friendly young woman, was my therapist for the spa treatments.

Would You Return? Yes

The most noticeable feature of the hotel on arrival was the historic Cambodian ambiance including the building’s design and furnishings, staffed cage elevator in the main building and Khmer uniformed doorman at the porte cochere entrance.

In addition to luxurious accommodations and facilities the staff were friendly and service oriented, and there were a number of on site activities on offer to keep me entertained during my week long stay. There was also a small shopping arcade with several appealing shops where I liked to browse. Although I enjoyed exploring Siem Reap sometimes it was nice to just enjoy the hotel activities and facilities without venturing out into the rainy environs and crowded Angkor temples.

I stayed first in a Personality Suite, a spacious room with a top floor view of the swimming pool, and concluded my visit in one of the property’s Villas, a stand alone building with two bedrooms, a kitchen and a living and dining area, at the end of the pool area. Each had appealing features, although the Villa offered greater privacy and abundant space.

The combination of the nostalgic ambiance and decor, customer centered butler services, facilities such as the beautiful swimming pool (modeled after a temple pool), on site fitness center and spa; amenities like in-room high speed internet connectivity; and activities like lotus flower and palm demonstrations, cultural dance dinner, wine tasting and Khmer cooking class, made a fan out of me.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury Five Star hotel and resort

Concierge Sambo Pat

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi internet throughout the hotel. Internet access in the main building was continuous and reliable. In the Villa it was uneven. At times I was unable to access the internet at all. Other times it was easy and fast. When I asked about the connection, the staff explained they were having problems with their provider.

General Manager Robert Hauck

Handicapped Access The hotel welcomed handicapped guests and offered the the use of wheelchairs during their stay.

Length Of Stay Six nights

Location The hotel was in Siem Reap, about 8 kilometers from the airport and 8 kilometers from the Angkor temples.

Managed Fairmont Raffles Hotels International (FRHI)

Owned Prince Al-Waleed bin Talal

Pets Allowed No

Size There were 119 rooms and suites in two three-story buildings within a 14.8 acre ( 60,000 square meters) property and a staff compliment of 270.

Year Opened-Renovated In 1997, Raffles International Ltd. took over the management of the hotel, restoring and refurbishing the property before it reopened under the name Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor. In 2009, guestrooms were renovated. The following year, the shopping arcade and business center were renovated, and refurbishment of additional guestrooms was underway in 2011.

The hotel formed a U shaped set up where the legs of the U were detached from the rest. The closed part of the U was the original building dating back to 1932 while the legs of the letter were built in the recent past. In the middle there was a beautiful pool designed to emulate the pool of a temple and behind it there was a water fountain made of two red stylized Khmer lions facing the main building. The pool bar was immediately behind the water fountain and behind it there was an outdoor dining area and a stage for performances. To the right of the main building and detached from it stood a building housing the spa and fitness center. In front of and across the street from the main building the hotel owned a handsome manicured park.

On arrival I stayed in Room 4114, the John Thompson Personality Suite (named for the first photographer to photograph the Angkor Wat Temple in the 1800s), a 48 square meter room on the fourth and top floor of the main building overlooking the center of the pool and reached via a 1920s elevator with an attendant. The spacious room had a short hallway entrance. Inside, the first features I noticed were wood floors and a rug in the middle, high ceilings, central air conditioning and a fan. A comfortable wood four poster bed with four feather pillows and duvet was set against the wall on the right side of the room. A rattan sofa was at the foot of the bed facing a metal and glass oval table, rattan armchair and round rattan table with glass top. Across from the rattan furniture there was a large three part armoire facing the bed. A central panel housed a modern Sony television on the top and an electronic safe, mini bar with a mini refrigerator on the bottom. The right side had hanging space and four bathrobes, two pairs of slippers. The left side had drawers on the bottom and hanging space at the top. Two of the armoire doors had full length mirrors. In an inset area in the far wall there was a luggage rack with a recessed light in the ceiling. The rest of the lighting was provided by two upright lamps and two night table lamps as well as recessed lights in the entry hallway.

To the right of the armoire there was an oval wall facing desk atop which there was a phone, a notepad and pen and a vase with fresh orchids. Two small framed black and white photos adorned the walls. To the right of the desk, a French sliding glass door led to an enclosed balcony with sitting space for two and a perfect view of the pool and the rear of the property. A folding horizontal gray curtain over the sliding glass door and nearby large window provided privacy at night.

One night during my stay I enjoyed an Asian buffet dinner with cultural performance at Apsara Terrace. The restaurant was at the end of the pool area facing a theatre style stage surrounded by traditional Cambodian boundary stones and wooden gates at the entrance. Because I attended a wine tasting at Le Grand cellar I arrived late for dinner as the performance was beginning. Not wanting to miss the show I waited until the end to serve myself from the many dishes on offer, many more than I had time for or was able to sample.

On a previous visit to Siem Reap I dined at Restaurant Le Grand where I had an elegant Royal Cambodian cuisine tasting menu dinner with recipes originated from the royal household. It was touted as having the most extensive wine cellar in Siem Reap. During my stay, I attended a cooking class at Le Grand one day. It included a visit to the market with the chef and a cooking demonstration. It was quite fun.

Bathroom amenities: Raffles Amrita Spa toiletries in the room and suite: comb, brush, loofah, shower cap, sewing kit, shaving kit, dental kit, mouth wash, shower cap, soap, shampoo, conditioner and two types of bath fine salts.

Added Villa amenities: DVD player, Bose sound system, in-villa computer with complimentary WiFi internet access, and personal butler service. There was also Evian water, Otard V.S.O.P Cognac and Johnnie Walker Red Label Whisky in decanters, a mini bar with two mini refrigerators, one with canned beverages and the second one with a locked glass door housing full size bottles of Champagne and wine. There was an extra large fruit bowl with pineapple, dragon fruit, bananas, mangoosteen, oranges and mangoes.

During my stay I received a welcome elephant candle, scarf with the hotel name embroidered on it, Khmer desserts (for turn down on the first night). Fruit plates in the room and suite had a plentiful supply of my favorite local fruit, mangoosteen and mango.

Facilities Spa, Jacuzzi, steam rooms, saunas, fitness center, 35 meter lap pool, three restaurants (Cafe d’Angkor serving international cuisine, Apsara Terrace serving Asian Buffet with cultural performance and Restaurant Le Grand serving Royal Cambodian Cuisine), three bars, two tennis courts, business center, meeting rooms, shopping arcade, and tour desk.

Fitness Center And Spa The spa and fitness center shared a building. The fitness center was 4.70 meters by 9.85 meters in size and the spa was 323.68 square meters in size. There were 11 TechnoGym machines in the air conditioned work out area as well as free weights. I usually had the room to myself when I went to work out in the early morning.

Pool The main swimming pool, 35 meters long by 18 meters wide with a depth between 1.2 meters and 1.5 meters, was meticulously cleaned, daily. Hotel staff maintained the pool deck area in an excellent state. They were constantly picking up leaves and flowers from the palm trees and frangipani trees that surrounded the pool area. There was also a Kid Pool 7 meters by 7 meters and 0.5 meters deep. Poolside the lounge chairs were covered with green and white striped towels. The day I had a window of opportunity I selected a shady option and a minute later one of the pool staff brought me a tray with lemongrass spritzer, pineapple chunks, a cold towel and a glass of iced water. I loved the scent of frangipani especially at the entrance to the spa.

Other The hotel offered novel and fun events on site. This was convenient as I didn’t always feel like venturing out on the town, especially in the rainy weather. I attended mixed drink tasting, lotus plant demonstration and tasting, palm demonstration and tasting (including wine), dessert, wine tasting with the wine steward featuring three types of wines, and the Apsara dance and dinner events during my stay.

The hotel had been listed in the Travel & Leisure 500 Best Hotels in the World 2003 – 2011 and appeared in the 2010 Conde Nast Traveler Gold List (United States edition) World’s Best Places to Stay.

Responsible Tourism Efforts included: Installation of heat pump for domestic hot water use in guestrooms instead of a steam boiler; electric power conversion to an EDC electric power supply and keeping the generator on standby only; waste management disposal system, e.g. separation of food and non-food items; organic composting system; a 300 square meter culinary herb and spice vegetable garden; used cooking oil was donated to Siem Reap Children’s Hospital; the establishment of a green committee; promotion of employee environmental awareness through monthly quizzes; upgrading of water filtration system for low chemical consumption and longer life span of linen; use of energy saving posters and tips/reminder during daily briefings; locally produced guest giveaways; replacement of ambience air-fresheners in public areas with locally made lemongrass burners, which became a signature scent for the hotel; furniture in the public area made of natural products such as wicker, which could be easily repaired locally; gourmet food festivals organized with local farmers (present to display their products); electricity, gas and steam daily consumption prominently displayed at the staff entrance to create awareness; extensive use of local products; and support of local suppliers, producers and talent.

Date Of Review June 2011

Reviewers Article and photographs by Elena del Valle

Service The rooms were serviced twice daily. Although some of the staff’s thick accents sometimes were hard to understand almost all the staff I met spoke some English. Most staff I encountered knew my name and I heard them greet other guests by their names as well. I appreciated the cold scented towels the staff offered me on my return to the hotel from any outing and the “welcome home” greeting anytime I returned to the hotel. It took a while to make my way from my room to the restaurant or other common areas because along the way I invariably encountered staff who greeted me by name and asked how I was, if I had slept well, if it was my first time in Cambodia, if I was enjoying my stay and so on. Many of them looked like they genuinely wished to converse so I took the time to speak briefly with any of the staff who appeared interested and answer their questions. The dining room staff, all of which spoke English, were unfailingly attentive and friendly.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Sunday morning at 8 a.m. an unexpected staff phone call woke me to a cheery sunny morning. In spite of the tiredness that lingered from the trip I stretched myself awake and headed out to the hotel’s exuberant buffet breakfast. By the end of the morning, after examining the grounds and my surroundings with care, I found that I was comfortable at the hotel and in my Personality Suite. But it was only after I had visited the city and its attractions that I realized how special the hotel was within Phnom Penh.

Le Royal provided a safe, reasonably quiet and clean environment within a renovated historic building, plenty of creature comforts, and friendly and helpful service including competent concierge staff that coordinated tourist activities for me. I was so comfortable, in fact, that going on a tour or exploring the city required an effort because what I was tempted to do was sit by the pool, explore the shops or have a snack at the lobby deli. After a day of sightseeing in the sweltering heat in at times gut wrenching sites of historic crimes, I was delighted to return to the serene and luxurious shelter of the hotel. Should I visit Cambodia’s capital again Le Royal will be my first choice for accommodations.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury Five Star hotel

Concierge Yon Pen

Connectivity There was complimentary broadband cable access via a wired connection in my room and WiFi in the lobby. Since I was unable to connect with the cable I had to sit in the lobby in order to go online and check emails.

General Manager Richard Schestak

Handicapped Access Not available

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location In the heart of the city and within a 20 minute drive from the airport.

Managed Fairmont Raffles Hotels International

Owned Kingdom Holding International (Prince Al-Waleed bin Talal)

Pets Allowed No

Size There were 170 rooms in three buildings within a two hectare property and 300 staff. The buildings were three or four stories tall.

Year Opened-Renovated The hotel designed by Ernest Hébrard, an architect of the time, was first established in 1927. In 1997 it became a Raffles property. The main building is the only structure from the original 55-room hotel that remains. In 2011, the State Rooms were slated for renovation.

Room I stayed in the nostalgic 55 square meter Andre Malraux Personality Suite, room 210, named for a writer and author of La Voie Royal (The Royal Way) in which he wrote about Cambodia. From the lobby my room was a short elevator ride one floor up. The easiest route, I found, was via a wide dark wood creaky staircase right in front of my room which descended directly into the lobby, in front of the concierge desk.

My room faced the front of the hotel and my balcony was immediately above the entrance to the building. It had a brown and white checker patterned tiled balcony about 6 feet wide by 12 feet long with a round glass topped table and two wicker armchairs. French door and wood frames led onto the balcony. A printed note on one of the doors said “We recommend that you keep your windows and doors closed at all times to avoid any inconveniences from Mother Nature (monkeys and mosquitoes)”. From my room I could see the entrance to the property from the street. Starting in the early morning I could hear the sounds of traffic, especially horns blaring in the nearby street.

From the entrance door, a short hallway led into the room which opened up into a spacious area with high ceilings. Two rugs, one in the entrance hallway and another in the corner of the room, lay atop dark wood floors. The space where a second door would have been was taken up by a burgundy privacy curtain hanging from a rod. The room was furnished with a queen wood four poster bed framed by matching square glass topped night tables. Each had an identical lamp. The table on the right had a telephone and electronic controls for the lights and the fan. A striped bench stood at the foot of the bed and there was a large window on the right side of the room.

A luggage rack took up the corner across from the bed. Next to it a wood armoire housed a Philips television in the center. Beneath it were snacks and beverages as well as a small refrigerator stocked with mini bar selections. On either side of the armoire there was hanging space. The right side housed two burgundy bathrobes and slippers. The left side had laundry supplies and drawers on the bottom. Next to the armoire, facing the wall, there was an oval shaped wood desk with twin floor lamps framing it. On it there was a flower vase, a telephone, an ethernet cable, a bottle of Evian from the mini bar and two decorative items as well as hotel materials. That was where I set up my iPad.

A small round table and a wood armchair took up the right corner between the window and the balcony. When I arrived the table had a tray with two small apples and an ice bucket with a bottle of white wine. Black and white glass framed photos were the sole adornment on the walls. Beige curtains with burgundy accents adorned the French doors and single window while a slightly creaky ceiling fan kept the air moving in the room. On the bed there was a comfortable mattress, duvet and four feather pillows with embroidered pillow cases. A central adjustable air conditioner was set in the hallway and kept the temperature comfortable in the room. It was cooler and by far less humid indoors than outdoors.

On a quiet Sunday night I ventured timidly into the restaurant to find out if it was possible to dine there. The young lady immediately welcomed me and soon I was seated at the back of the main dining room (there was a smaller dining area to the rear of the main dining room). The well managed restaurant offered traditional Khmer dishes and contemporary options. I sampled some of each and was surprised by the delightful results and refined dinner service. The ceiling painting of lotus and honeysuckle flowers was by Assax, painter by appointment to His Majesty King Norodom Sihanouk. There was also a large painting of an Apsara dancer on the back wall.

Suite amenities included a butler, complimentary coffee or tea and two items pressed during my stay. During the week a complimentary copy of The Phnom Penh Post was delivered to my room. At turn down the staff brought a bottle of complimentary water and a printed card with an excerpt from a history book; a different one each night. One, for example, was from An Official Guide to Eastern Asia, Tokyo 1917.

Facilities The hotel had a gym, spa, two pools, a gourmet restaurant, a cafe, a deli and gift shop, a bar and several boutiques.

Pool There were two swimming pools, an adult pool, 25 meters by 12 meters in size and 1.5 meters deep, and a children’s pool, 20 meters by 12 meters and 0.9 meters deep. The swimming pools were divided by a pathway. On the right, from the main building, was the children’s pool. On the left was the adult pool. Changing rooms with two showers and one toilet (in the women’s bathroom) were at either end of the pool area. The women’s changing room was by the children’s pool and the men’s was by the adult pool. The lounge chairs were cushioned and comfortable, each one with a striped green and white towel which a pool attendant spread over the seats when a guest arrived. The day I visited the pools there were nine children in the pool area, most in the adult pool section including two in diapers both of which went in the water. Although I saw no umbrellas many of the lounge chairs were in the shade of two beautiful large trees, one at each end of the pool area like sentinels. When I arrived one of the young pool attendants, who kept the pool area free of leaves and looked after guests, found a shady corner for me to sit. A few minutes later he returned with a cold towel, a bottle of water and three bites of pineapple on a skewer.

Ngou Sreykeo, a young lady from the countryside who had learned English by studying for two years with a non governmental organization and had learned massage techniques at Le Royal where she had worked for three years, gave me a 90-minute Relaxing Oil Massage. I was originally scheduled for a Khmer Massage but once we started talking and she found out I was tired from my long flights from the United States to Cambodia she suggested I have the oil massage instead. The massage was very good and she was helpful and friendly. I left relaxed and refreshed following the treatment and a 10 minute sauna session. In the ladies room, there were two rows of double (top and bottom) lockers, a steam room and a sauna as well as three showers and two toilets. The amenities in my locker were: towel, disposable underwear, plastic slippers, bathrobe, bottle of water and shower cap.

Other To the right of the entrance in front of the Elephant Bar there was a shopping arcade offering gallery and Khmer artifacts, oriental silks and carpets, fashion accessories, souvenirs, books and newspapers for purchase.

Because the tap water was not potable there were two bottles of water on the sink for oral hygiene. The hotel fogged the property every Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday between 10 p.m. and 11 p.m. There was a note in my room notifying me that if I should see thick white smoke outside my window or balcony I should not be alarmed, that it was not hazardous to health and that the chemicals used had been approved by the American Pest Control Association.

The hotel had been listed in Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards Top 50 Hotels in Asia from 2006 to 2009 and Travel + Leisure Greatest 500 Hotels in The World between 2005 and 2009.

Date Of Review June 2011

Reviewers Article and photographs by Elena del Valle

Service My room was serviced twice daily. Staff were service oriented, helpful and friendly. My butlers, including Chuon Sokvat, introduced themselves when I arrived and saw me off when I left. One of them, Sok Vat, left a kind farewell note for me on my departure. The concierge, on the couple of occasions when I requested assistance, was personable, knowledgeable and responded with alacrity. When I ordered a room service meal for lunch (the restaurants were closed until dinner) the food arrived within minutes and the empty tray was removed very quickly following my pick up call. Likewise when I asked to borrow an adaptor it arrived within five minutes. I requested additional water bottles when I arrived late at night. The following morning I found the water bottles in my mini bar.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Osaka is Japan’s third largest city (population: 3 million) and its historical center of industrial strength. Osaka’s contributions to the world include the VHS VCR, developed by local electronics giant Panasonic, and conveyor belt sushi. It is a convenient city that offers excellent shopping and cultural amenities. There are traditional arts such as bunraku theater (Japanese puppet plays), kabuki (traditional dance plays), and manzai (stand-up Japanese comedy). Osaka also attracts international exhibitions and artists to its museums and concert and convention halls. Electronics fanatics cannot miss the Den Den Town shopping district, where they can find anything from old video games to used camera lenses in excellent condition.

Osaka is well known for its tasty delights including takoyaki, battered octopus dumplings. People from Osaka will remind visitors that their version of okonomiyaki, Japanese pancake/pizza, is the best in the country. After a night of drinking, kushi-katsu, fried meat and vegetables on a stick, satisfies the severest case of munchies. Visitors can delightfully experience Japan’s contrast between future and past while eating Osaka treats under the towering wall of neon lights over the Dotonbori Bridge or under the imposing ramparts of Osaka Castle.

Osaka is also a convenient hub to explore other areas of interest in Western Japan. Kyoto, Kobe, and Nara are less than an hour away. Each of these cities offers an atmosphere distinct from Osaka. However, any person from Osaka will tell you that their city is the best.

Currency Japanese yen

Electrical Current Japan runs on 100v 60 hz. (50 hz in east Japan). Most plugs are the two plug non-polarized (one plug wider than the other) type, so they accommodate most North American appliances.

Health And Vaccinations None.

How To Get There Several international carriers fly directly to Osaka’s Kansai International Airport (KIX), which is about 50 km (30 miles) from the downtown area. From Tokyo, Osaka is a 3.5 hour bullet train ride that cost about 14,000 yen each way at the time of my visit.

Location Osaka is about 520 km (323 miles) away from Tokyo and about 6,425 kilometers (3,992 miles) away from New York City.

Measures Japan uses the metric system.

Money Issues Japan is primarily a cash based society, although major credit cards are accepted at upscale restaurants, hotels, and shopping malls. Otherwise I make sure to have plenty of yen on hand. Yen can be withdrawn from most ATMs at convenience stores although foreign credit cards are not accepted by most ATM machines. I found 7-11 to be the most foreign ATM card friendly as well as Japanese post offices. It was also possible to exchange currency at the airport. Before traveling to Japan, I called my bank ahead of time to ensure that I could withdraw cash internationally.

Technology When it comes to technology Osaka is one of the world’s most advanced cities in the world, with miles of automatic walkways and an army of versatile vending machines. However, like the rest of Japan, public Wi-Fi access points were scarce. It’s also a good idea to carry around a small hand towel as some public bathrooms don’t have paper towels.

Time GMT plus 9

Transportation At the time of my most recent visit, Osaka had an extensive subway system that covered most destinations of interest in the area. It also had several convenient rail lines connecting it to nearby cities including Kyoto, Nara, and Kobe.

Shopping And Souvenirs Electronics and hobby fans won’t want to miss Osaka’s Den Den Town near Namba. Den Den Town is a haven for electronic gadgets, video games, and toys. Hard to find electronic components such as old memory chips or camera lenses may be found here. For luxury brand goods I shop the concentration of luxury stores on Mido-suji street in Shinsaibashi. For less expensive but curious items, I browse the knickknacks in Osaka’s many covered shopping arcades; several can be found near Umeda, Namba, and Tennoji stations.

Osaka Jo Castle, a centuries old castle and the site of several important samurai battles.

Dotonbori Bridge, located at the intersection of the shopping and entertainment areas of Shinsaibashi and Namba, is a great area to find a bite to eat while taking in the city’s atmosphere.

Den Den Town is a haven for electronics, comics, and toy fanatics. I found hard to find goods here for reasonable prices.

Shinsaibashi is home to name brand shopping and nice hotels.

Namba is home to additional shopping and bars.

Reviewers Article and photos by Joachim Castellano

Would You Visit This Destination Again? Yes.

By 3 a.m. I was comfortably settled in a handsome two-level beachfront suite at the Rest Detail Hotel Hua Hin, one of the property’s premier suites. A shower and some sleep did wonders to improve my jet lag and the next morning I approached the restaurant with a ravenous appetite. Although the staff spoke limited English and I spoke no Thai I perceived a warm welcome. With their help and some exploring on my part I easily discovered the property and its facilities as well as the surrounding beachfront. I spent a few hours walking around the town, visiting a silk co-op store, the shopping mall, and a Thai night market.

At the Rest Detail I found an ambiance of respite away from the hustle and bustle of the city, friendly and service oriented staff, especially Jakkaphat Sooksabai “Tar”, my pavilion attendant who was helpful, friendly and seemed to always be available. I particularly liked the quiet and luxurious seclusion afforded by my suite with a beach view, the delicious food at Rest Gastro, the pretty main pool suitable for swimming and the on site spa. It was evident the staff dedicated much effort to meals, details like turn down cookies (varied every night), amenities, decor and the overall cleanliness and appearance of the small hotel.

Although the weather was mostly overcast with light rain while I was in Hua Hin my stay was relaxing and just what I wanted. As we drove away the morning of my departure and I waived good by to Tar and some of the hotel staff I had met I smiled knowing I would miss them and thought what a great idea it had been to drive to Hua Hin. I look forward to revisiting the Rest Detail the next time I am in the area and will recommend a jet lag stop over there to friends and acquaintances.

Class Of Accommodation Five Star luxury hotel and spa

Concierge Ms. Kanlaya Chankhao, guest relations manager

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi (6 megabit per second) in the suite and throughout the property.

General Manager Jakri Rujirat

Handicapped Access Main building rooms were designed for wheelchair access although that was not the case for Pavilion and Village accommodations.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location The hotel is 220 kilometers southwest from Suvarnabhumi airport, the international airport serving Bangkok, Thailand.

Owned And Managed The hotel was owned by BoonKongchuen Land Co. Ltd. (Paithoon Boonkongchuen, managing director)

Pets Allowed No

Size The 2.8 acre hotel property had space for 56 guest rooms and employed 120.

Year Opened-Renovated The hotel was established April 2008

The owners entrusted Ms. Ploy Chariyaves, a columnist and travel writer, to come up with a modern concept for the design. Ploy emphasized detail: “I chose the playful three wise monkeys logo and concept because I was familiar with them since I was a child. They are a symbol of living a wise life, closing ourselves out from the noise of the busy world to relax and take time out. It’s not another chic or boutique hotel. We are a ‘detail’ hotel and I incorporated every detail as a result of my traveling experiences into the hotel’s concept, based on my personal experience and those of family, friends and colleagues who gave invaluable input.”

She meant for make the hotel very spacious, open, airy, with tropical seaside colors, a white background with splashes of color, tile mosaics, chandeliers, waterfall features and outdoor Jacuzzis and pools in the villas, double daybeds built out over the swimming pool in the Pool Village, individual letterboxes for each room and villa, and the incorporation of the three wise monkeys theme throughout the hotel.

Room My suite, the 260 square meter two level Beach Rest Pavilion, faced the beach. There were two entrances, a private courtyard and plunge pool. A handful of steps led from the beach facing lawn to the suite’s entrance of several sliding glass doors. Inside there was a sitting room with an iPod player with speakers, a flatscreen television and a DVD player. Past the sitting room on the right side of the room there was a bathroom divided into three parts, water closet, sink and shower. Glazed pretty glass walls provided privacy within the bathroom. To the left of the stairs there was a wet bar with two stools facing a full size refrigerator stocked with cold beverages and water. To the left of the wet bar there was a dining area and a second flat screen television on a table. Sliding glass doors led to a partial wrap around veranda facing the beach, the suite pool and the main pool area of the hotel. My favorite feature was the suite’s excellent beach view from the entire upstairs area.

Stairs led to a two bedroom sleeping area one level below. Straight down the stairs there was a bedroom with twin beds and an en suite bathroom with a shower. To the right of the stairs there was a master bedroom with a king bed, and en suite bathroom. The bed was flanked by identical night tables. In the rear of the bedroom there was a wall facing vanity with an armchair and an upright small wood framed mirror. On the opposite corner there was a flatscreen television and a DVD player. To the left of the bed there was a half step down to a full size plastic bathtub. Double khaki colored curtains could be closed for privacy. Across the room sliding glass doors behind identical double khaki colored curtains led to a private courtyard with patio furniture below the suite’s plunge pool which was shared by the two bedrooms.

I had dinner twice during my stay and sampled a Thai style noodle dish, seafood fondue set dinner, and rock lobster salad (a favorite). Desserts too were delicious. One night there was warm chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream served with a berry and passion fruit coulis. The following night I chose mango sorbet from the a la carte menu. There was also tea service in the afternoons between 2 p.m. and 6 p.m. Mine was served in my suite with several kinds of sweet bites including cheese cake, panna cotta, chocolate cake and marble cake and three savory items including chicken wings and delicious fresh crab on bread. Room service was available 24 hours a day. When I arrived at 3 a.m. there was a welcome platter of finger foods and fruit which was just what I needed after two days of travel.

Facilities There were two on site restaurants, a bar, a swimming pool, a small gift shop and a spa.

Pool My suite pool was 2 meters wide by 5 meters long and 1.25 meters deep. The main swimming pool was 8 meters wide by 25 meters long and 1.5 meters deep.

Spa There was a 252 square meter spa housing five treatment rooms. I gladly indulged in three treatments during my stay.

Date Of Review September 2010

Reviewers Article and photographs by Elena del Valle

Service My suite was serviced twice daily. Although communication was challenging at times since I spoke no Thai and few staff understood English the staff were accommodating and friendly. Tar, who was assistant guest relations manager when he wasn’t busy with pavilion guests, checked me in when I arrived and offered to have the kitchen prepare a meal for me; I was more tired than hungry and opted for fruit instead. During my stay, he checked on me intermittently and served as my guide around the town when I went exploring one day, translating and pointing out the salient sights. His assistance enhanced my stay.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

The weather was uncharacteristically erratic during my stay, with impressive dark clouds rolling in from the sea several times a day, which I viewed as an opportunity to take a break from the beach and sample the many other pleasures of Rayavadee. The spa, in addition to its extensive range of traditional Thai healing therapies offered a variety of excellent salon treatments. Near the main lounge, the Boutique was a treasure trove of Asian crafts, jewelry, antiques and fashion. I enjoyed browsing there before stepping over to the lounge where afternoon high tea was served daily. Along with the complimentary scrumptious tea service, guests were invited to participate in a different craft demonstration each day, from flower garland making to hand massage. Adjacent to the Boutique, the library offered not only a variety of reading material and complimentary WiFi connection but also an impressive lending library of classic and recent American, European and Bollywood movies to be viewed in my pavilion. And when I didn’t consider that an imminent warm tropical shower warranted a retreat, both Phranang and Railay offered a pleasant beach-side restaurant and bar where I could enjoy a meal or a drink and a close up view of the sea’s ever changing spectacle.

Rain or shine, there was much to enjoy at Rayavadee. In addition to the beaches for sunning and swimming, complimentary wind surfing and snorkeling equipment, sea kayaks and even a Hobie Cat sailboat were available at the water sports center. Daily guided hikes explored the most spectacular viewpoints and caves around the resort. And for racket sports enthusiasts, there were tennis and squash courts. Considering the resort’s privileged location on renowned beaches, its luxurious secluded accommodations, and an ever attentive, pleasant and visibly child-friendly staff, it is small wonder that Rayavadee was a favorite of vacationing families as well as honeymooners. As property manager Veerasak Sribunreung remarked to me: “guests first come on their honeymoon, then return a few years later with their children.” I didn’t fall within either category, but I too would return, should the opportunity arise for me to explore further the natural wonders of the Krabi Marine National Park.

Class Of Accommodation Five star luxury resort

Concierge A team of customer relations staff could arrange a broad spectrum of off-resort activities.

Connectivity At the time of my visit, Internet access was only available in the library. WiFi service was reliable, with moderate speed. There were also two wired-access computers for guest use. Both services were complimentary. I was assured that WiFI was currently being implemented in all the guest pavilions and scheduled to become operational effective December 2010.

General Manager Veerasak Sribunreung

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location On the Phranang Peninsula, 500 miles (800 kilometer) south of Bangkok. Krabi International Airport was one hour away from the property (a 30 minute drive to the pier followed by a 30 minute speedboat ride).

Owned /managed Rayavadee was owned and managed by the Premier Group of Companies.

Pets Allowed No

Size The 24 acre (9.6 hectare) property included 98 two-story pavilions and four beachfront villas. It employed a maximum staff of 400 at the height of the season.

Year Opened-Renovated The property opened in 1996. The latest renovation was ongoing. A full update of all the guest bathrooms was nearing completion at the time of my visit.

The main lounge was a vast circular hall. The outer ring was tiled in shades of green from celadon to aquamarine. Pairs of wooden armchairs separated by matching coffee tables were lined against the sliding glass exterior walls. They faced a central wooden platform raised two steps from the ground. Towering sculpted teak pillars held the soaring roof of the center platform. Cane sofas and barrel chairs with melon cotton cushions surrounded rectangular coffee tables. These groupings alternated with straight back wooden armchairs clustered around occasional tables to provide seating. Silk toss pillows in brilliant shades from lime to fuchsia added touches of color. At the rear of the room a wall-size display case held a collection of china bowls and jars.

Across the courtyard the Raya restaurant continued the decorating scheme with square wooden tables and cane directors’ chairs with bright yellow seat cushions. The library was a spacious circular room with long sofas built along curved picture windows for a window-seat feel. With their thick natural canvas cushions and mountains of toss pillows, they formed a cozy spot to catch up on e-mail. Cane barrel and fireside chairs with round coffee tables completed the sitting area. Two personal computers for guest use sat on a long desk by the front window. Built-in bookcases filled with books and DVD’s occupied the rear wall. In the center of the room a round rustic table held a large basked overflowing with tropical flowering plants.

Room My 750 square foot (70 square meter) two-story Deluxe Pavilion, Number 323, carried through the décor of the public areas, with furniture of dark polished wood and richly colored fabrics. The bottom level sitting room featured a central couch cum daybed hanging from the ceiling by wrought iron chains down to just above the terracotta floor. Brightly colored cotton toss pillows enhanced its thick saffron cushions. In front of it, set on a tan woven cotton rug, a large rectangular footstool doubled as a coffee table. The couch faced an entertainment center that held a flat panel television and DVD player. To its right against a curved picture widow covered in light-filtering bamboo shades and draped in tan cotton, a round glass-topped dining table with two caned chairs provided additional seating. On the rear wall a credenza held a tea, coffee and cold beverages service. A rectangular mirror in a bamboo frame hung above it. To the left a louvered door led to the washroom with a commode, a black ceramic washbowl set on a wooden vanity and a wall mirror. To the right of the credenza, a double doorway opened onto the staircase leading to the second floor bedroom and bath.

The focal point of the bedroom was a striking king-size platform bed covered in a bright patchwork of fuchsia and saffron cotton with an abundance of color-coordinated pillows. When I arrived, a wooden sculpture of a longtail boat holding a cluster of bright yellow marigolds was arranged across the bed (the sculpture was moved to the top of the downstairs entertainment center during turndown service, where it remained for the remainder of my stay). The headboard was a built-in ledge that doubled as bedside tables. The wall behind it was covered with a contemporary mural of stylized fan palms in matching tones of yellows and pinks. Swing-arm wall-hung lamps with natural rattan drum shades served as reading lights. At the front of the room, a floor-to-ceiling picture window formed an alcove that held a cane lounge chair and footrest with hot pink cushions and a small side table. Louvered shutters could be closed for privacy. The entire wall facing the bed was covered with a built-in floor-to-ceiling wardrobe with a flat panel television and DVD player in its center cabinet. The landing at the top of the stairs had a writing desk and chair, and a wood-framed rectangular mirror. Between the desk and the wardrobe, a pair of saloon doors led to the bathroom.

A few steps away from the swimming pool, Raitalay Terrace featured international dishes for lunch and dinner as well as full bar service, and a lovely view of Railay Beach. Meanwhile, right at the edge of Phranang Beach, the Grotto Bar was nestled under a cool limestone cliff. It served a variety of juices, smoothies and bar drinks along with light lunches and snacks. A few steps away Krua Phranang offered elegant dining by the sea. Its menu of excellent classic Thai dishes emphasized seafood and freshly caught fish.

Although the peninsula is actually connected to the mainland, it is effectively cut off from the rest of Krabi by limestone headland and steep jungle valleys. A number of commercial diesel-powered longtail boats carried day-visitors to the beaches, which could get rather busy during the day. Rayavadee’s private facilities, with charming beach-front restaurants and rows of comfortable lounge chairs shaded with canvas umbrellas were located at the edge of the public beach. Attentive beach staff was always ready to offer fresh towels, bottled of chilled water and a friendly smile, or to order a drink or snack from the bar. On the opposite side of the Peninsula, a third beach, Nam Mao, was used solely as a landing area for the resort’s motorboats.

Facilities There were four restaurants, three bars, tennis and squash courts, a library, a fitness center, a boutique, a swimming pool and a spa.

Fitness Center And Spa The glassed-in, air-conditioned fitness center featured a variety of modern exercise equipment.

The luxurious 12,300 square foot (1,140 square meter) Rayavadee Spa offered an extensive range of massages and salon treatments that combined Thai and international practices to meet individual needs. In addition to its spacious reception area and lounge, the spa featured seven treatment rooms, some with private sauna and soaking tub. The contemporary urban décor of the low, see-through building surrounded by lush jungle gardens enhanced the relaxation experience of my visit. In addition to the mandatory certification from the Ministry of Public Health, its therapists were graduates from the Lanna Thai Spa Academy.

Gift Shop The Rayavadee Boutique was a paradise for discriminating shoppers. In addition to high-quality beachwear, custom jewelry and accessories it carried original gold and silver jewelry pieces and clothing from Thai and Southeast Asian designers. The boutique also featured a good variety of textiles, ceramics and lacquer ware home accessories and a selection of antiques, all beautifully displayed in a gallery setting.

Pool The swimming pool was exceptional in design as well as size. Located at the edge of Railay Beach, the infinity pool truly seemed to go on forever into the Andaman Sea. Its huge basin was a free-form series of interwoven circles flowing into each other, with depths increasing from very shallow to satisfying for serious swimmers. The surrounding stone terrace was lined with cushioned lounge chairs under canvas umbrellas.

In the bathroom, the assortment of full-size toiletries was outstanding. All products were spa quality, made of natural ingredients and exclusive to Rayavadee. They included bath salts and shower scrub, hand-milled soaps, shampoo, conditioner, body wash, body lotion, and a very effective jasmine and lavender after sun lotion. I so enjoyed these products that I carried some of them home. There was also a hair dryer, a loofah sponge, a pumice stone, shaving and dental hygiene kits and a pocket-size pump bottle of an unusual orange scented mosquito repellent. In addition to these complimentary amenities, there was a well-stocked pay-for-use mini-bar.

Date Of Review October 2010

Reviewers Article and photos by Josette King

Service My pavilion was serviced twice daily. Staff were friendly, helpful and service oriented.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

It was a pleasant 40 minute speedboat ride to Santhiya from the larger nearby island of Koh Samui. The latter part of the journey was along Phangan’s pristine coastline of rocky shores and steep hills covered with dense jungle forests. Soon we were approaching one of the most private of the island’s beaches: Thong Nai Pan. Santhiya was rising above its own sandy cove at the far end of it, a verdant hillside sprinkled with the sharply peaked roofs characteristic of traditional Thai architecture peering through thick tropical foliage. On the shore, the sound of a gong announced our arrival.

The essence of Santhiya was immediately palpable. Firstly in the gracious welcome of the staff meeting us at the pier, then in myriad details evoking the timeless elegance of the Thai heritage while harmoniously blending with decidedly 21 ^st century concerns for environmental sustainability and comfort expectations. The entire property had been conceived to take full advantage of the glorious ocean views while respecting the topography of the land and existing mature vegetation. The architecture was inspired by the soaring 19 ^th century teakwood structures of the King Rama V period, with much of the wood recycled for the construction of the property. Sometimes this repurposing was seamless as in the grand open pavilions of the common areas with their elaborate woodwork. Other times, mostly in the gardens, the previous function of the landscaping timber was still discernible. Former barn beams were now garden path railings with orchid blooms shooting from cracks in the wood. Gates were held by water buffalo yokes and planking had come from the hull of long tail boats to fence the private gardens of guest villas.

Concern for preserving traditional lifestyle arts was also much in evidence. World-renowned Thai cuisine was not only showcased on the restaurants menu, but also transmitted to interested guests in cooking classes offered by God Keawpeth, the property’s master chef. I thoroughly enjoyed my private lesson with him as he demystified some of my favorite dishes, including Tom Yam Goong (spicy prawn soup) and Phad Thai. I was equally delighted by the once-a-week Thai evening at the main restaurant, Chantara. A wide selection of classic Thai dishes was served buffet-style for an opportunity to sample lesser-known specialties. The evening also featured a performance by Santhiya’s own dance group. Staff members, who come from various provinces around the country, have been encouraged to transmit their traditional regional dances among themselves as well as to young girls from the local school, and to perform for the guests.

Then there was the Ayurvana Spa, an intimate retreat with an inviting covered terrace that boasted a panoramic view of the bay and one of the best combinations of traditional Thai and international treatments I have enjoyed anywhere. And when I wanted some personal time, my villa was just minutes away, with its large private terrace and plunge pool overlooking the entire beach.

I was so blissfully ensconced within the cosseted world of Santhiya that I almost forgot my original intent to enjoy the warm waters of the Gulf of Thailand. But a morning excursion was arranged for me. A long tail boat took me, along with two lovely European honeymooning couples to deserted coves known for their coral reefs, where I spent two happy hours snorkeling with schools of multicolored fish. As for the beach? I did enjoyed a few dips in the gently rolling waves, and a couple of walks at the edge of the surf. Then having satisfied myself that the beach was indeed lovely, I decided that for me, it didn’t compare to the lure of my hillside Siamese retreat.

Although I spotted a variety of guests at Santhiya, from couples enjoying romantic getaways to vacationing families with children, the accommodations were sufficiently secluded and the resort offered enough of a variety of activities that mingling was purely a matter of choice. Would I recommend Santhiya? I selfishly hesitate, for fear of spoiling what I came to regard as my personal tropical paradise. Alright, I will warmly recommend it, but only to my very best friends!

Class Of Accommodation Five star luxury resort

Concierge A team of customer relations staff could arrange a variety of off-resort activities.

Connectivity The absence of Internet access in the guest quarters was the one unfortunate omission in this otherwise outstanding property. Complimentary WiFi access was available throughout the common areas. Connectivity was reliable and speed was moderate.

General Manager Danny Sukomol

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Four nights

Location In a remote bay on the island of Koh Phangan in the central Gulf of Thailand, 30 minutes by speedboat from Koh Samui and the nearest airport.

Owned And Managed The Chantaravisoot family. Komkrit Chantaravisoot was managing director.

Pets Allowed No

Size The property had 45 rooms and 54 villas scattered across an 18 acre (7.25 hectare) hillside. It employed a staff of 200.

Year Opened-Renovated The property opened in July 2006 with 50 rooms. It has gradually been expended to its current size.

At the rear, a long hall with a reception area and lounge overlooked the square. At the far end, a religious shrine was open to the gardens. The rear and right walls of the hall were covered in teak and black geometric marquetry that provided a backdrop for room-size panels of intricately carved wood and a long brick counter topped with a thick wooden slab of the reception desk. A pair of wooden chairs with white canvas cushions stood in front of each of the four reception stations. In the center of the room, two groupings of carved sofas and armchairs with white canvas upholstery were arranged around matching rectangular coffee tables. Against the rear wall, a tall ebony statue on a gilded credenza served as a focal point.

A pair of narrow pavilions that could be enclosed with a series of French doors faced each other across the central platform. The one on the right was the Sala, a library-like room with a pair of oriental daybeds with white canvas cushions and neat rows of jewel-toneed silk pillows. They were flanked by two tall display cabinets with a collection antique china jars and bowls. The opposite side of the room held a large bookcase with an assortment of reading material, board games, and a few randomly placed lounging mats. The Sala could be closed, air-conditioned and its furniture rearranged for private receptions.

The pavilion on the opposite side of the lounging platform served as buffet area for Chantara, the resort’s main restaurant. It had long wooden tables on three sides. An ancient canoe was used as a serving counter on the fourth side. Chantara was the grandest of the pavilions. Lacy wooden arches enhanced its tall entrance porticoes. The dining furniture consisted of square teak tables with turned legs and matching armchairs. Other than an elaborate circular credenza holding a tall spear-like sculpture in the very center of the room, ornamentation had been omitted so as not to detract from the panoramic ocean view. At the front of the restaurant, a terrace running the length of the pavilion provided additional seating for al fresco dining.

Room My 1,185 square foot (110 square meter) Ocean View Pool Villa, Number 313, was a cozy light-filled hideaway designed for optimum indoor-outdoor living and superb privacy. The tree-shaded deck had comfortable teak furniture, a square dining table, two armchairs and two lounge chairs with waterproof pads separated by a small tray table and a white canvas umbrella. The deck ended at the edge of a 25 foot (7.5 meter) long whirlpool plunge pool and a separate oversized bathtub, both with a sweeping view of the bay. From the deck, sliding French doors led into the teak and glass, air-conditioned suite, with thick cotton draperies that could be drawn over floor to ceiling glass panels for additional privacy. The style complemented that of the public areas. The king-size four-poster platform bed was draped in white muslin. Its square bedside chests held black and gold porcelain ginger jar reading lamps. On the white high-count cotton bedding, a tangerine silk pillow and a gold and aquamarine silk brocade bed scarf added touches of color. A writing table with a tilting mirror and a straight back chair doubled as dressing table. A floor lamp with a parchment drum shade, a built-in wardrobe, a tall wall mirror and an elaborately carved cabinet holding a flat panel television and DVD player completed the bedroom furnishings. From the sleeping area, a fully glassed-in hallway with an arched ceiling led to the sitting room where a daybed with a white canvas cushion and tangerine silk brocade pillows faced a rectangular coffee table, the plunge pool and the bay beyond.

Located at the edge of the beach, adjacent to the swimming pool, the casual By the Sea and Bar restaurant was my favorite for a light, healthy lunch. It featured a good selection of grilled fish, meat and vegetables, along with salads and delicious fruit juices and smoothies that could make me forget about dessert. I loved their take on Salade Niçoise , served with lightly seared red tuna.

Ayurvana Spa This charming little spa was built on a rocky ledge just below the common areas. At the rear of the reception foyer, a carved wooden arch led to an intimate covered terrace where three foot massage chairs and five Thai massage mats were separated by a serene stone fountain. There were also three private rooms at the rear for all other treatments, and a room for herbal steam baths. The spa employed six therapists who in addition to their mandatory certification by the Ministry of Public Health were required to have completed a minimum of 300 hours of training. Their expertise was clear in the quality of the treatments I received, as well as their understanding of my specific needs. I had just returned from a morning of snorkeling when I arrived for my appointment. I had scheduled an herbal steam, a body scrub and a signature massage. My therapist, Jeab, took one look at the back of my legs, which I had carelessly allowed to extensively sunburn during two hours of happily floating just below the surface of the water (the damage was not yet apparent to me) and immediately adjusted the program to a relaxing foot reflexology treatment and a cooling 90 minute massage with freshly extracted aloe gel, which mercifully limited my discomfort later.

Beach The private sand beach was said to be one of the most pristine on the island. While I lacked the experience to second the comparison, I found it very clean, and the water clear and pleasant for snorkeling. Complimentary equipment was available for guests interested in snorkeling, sea kayaking or sailing around the bay. Teak lounge chairs with natural canvas cushions beneath white canvas umbrellas were lined up between the beach and the pool area. Cheerful pool attendants were standing by to offer fresh towels and bottles of chilled water.

Facilities Two restaurants, two bars, two swimming pools, beach, health club, spa and gift boutique.

Fitness Center The air-conditioned fitness center featured exercise equipment.

Gift Shop Located a few steps away from the spa the gift shop carried a variety of local Thai handicrafts as well as a few Santhiya-specific items, such as logo-ed woven-straw beach bags and the resort’s signature burgundy and gold brocade bathrobe.

Pool A stunning 13,000 square foot (1,200 square meter) bi-level free-form swimming pool stood at the edge of the beach. It featured a 30 foot (10 meter) manmade rock waterfall. A second lagoon-like infinity pool was recently built high on the hillside. This pool, which featured handcrafted floating beds reminiscent of traditional Thai boats and a panoramic view of the bay, was reserved for the exclusive use of residents of the twenty rooms of the adjacent Supreme Deluxe Building.

Date Of Review October 2010

Reviewers Article and photos by Josette King

Service My villa was serviced twice daily. The staff was friendly, reliable and attentive. By the second day of my visit, the breakfast dining room server remembered my preferences, not only as to where I liked to sit (in a quiet spot of the terrace), but also exactly how and when I wanted my morning cappuccino. The guest services staff was equally friendly and thorough. As I was intrigued by one of the trees around my terrace, which simultaneously bore dainty white flowers and interesting red leathery fruit, I brought a sample fruit to the reception desk and asked the clerk for the tree’s name. Although she tried very hard she couldn’t find a suitable English translation for it. A couple of days after my departure from Santhiya, I was impressed to receive an e-mail from her manager who had been informed of my query, and along with a photograph of the tree, provided me with the English name for it.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

I was immediately seduced by the understated charm of Tamarind Village and the thoughtful welcome of its gracious staff that made me feel like a long expected friend. After ensuring that I was settled to my satisfaction, Kaksana Thanopajai, the property’s concierge and resident expert on Lanna Thai history and northern ethnic crafts, discussed my interest in this ancient culture. The Lanna Kingdom flourished in what is now Northern Thailand, from the 13 ^th to the 18 ^th centuries, with Chiang Mai as its capital. We decided on several activities, including a fascinating morning walk in the neighborhoods surrounding the hotel. With Kaksana as my guide, we stopped at Wat Duang Dee, a small temple located down the street from the property. There, we delivered the hotel’s traditional daily offering of food to the monks and received their blessings before proceeding to some of the most historic sites in the city (n.b. this complimentary tour was available daily to hotel guests by previous arrangement). Other memorable excursions included an afternoon drive high into the mountains surrounding Chiang Mai for a visit to a remote Hmong tribal village. On the way home we stopped at Wat Doi Suthep, a sprawling hilltop temple considered especially holy by many Thai people. The site also offered a panoramic view of the city below.

Tamarind Village itself offered a unique opportunity to appreciate many aspects of the rich cultural legacy of the Lanna Kingdom. The public areas and guest rooms were decorated with antique crafts and colorful textiles drawn from the various tribes of the region. At the restaurant, in addition to Thai and western fare, one-third of the menu was dedicated to typically northern cuisine. Above the restaurant, a small art gallery regularly hosts temporary expositions inspired by northern topics. At the time of my visit, the exhibit was entitled “Dreams of the North; nuance and nostalgia in contemporary jewelry.” Then there was the charm of the surroundings, especially at dusk when the entire property became imbued with a special kind of magic. I loved to settle into the deep cushions of the settee on my balcony then, and gaze through the branches of the ancient tamarind tree at the last rays of sunshine brushing the golden spear of Wat Duang Dee. Meanwhile, oil lanterns were being lit along the garden paths and around the pool where their reflection danced in the undulating water. Soft sounds of temple bells and chants drifted over the Village wall and with them the spirit of a culture dating back a millennium.

With its privileged location in the heart of the historic town, its refined ethnic atmosphere and warm and attentive staff, Tamarind Village appeared to be a favorite of a broad range of tourists from honeymooners and groups of friends to vacationing families. And it also attracted some business travelers. I thoroughly enjoyed my stay there and would gladly plan a longer visit, using Tamarind Village as a base to explore the tribal areas of Northern Thailand.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury boutique hotel

Concierge Kaksana Thanopajai

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi connectivity throughout the property. Access from my suite was reliable and fast.

General Manager Naphat Nutsati

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location Within the walls of Chiang Mai’s historic city, a 20-minute drive from the airport.

Owned- Managed Tamarind Village was owned and managed by the Premier Group of Companies.

Pets Allowed No

Size The one-acre (4,046 square meter) property included 42 rooms and three suites in two level structures set around three private courtyards. It could accommodate up to 90 guests and employed a staff of 60.

Year Opened-Renovated Tamarind Village opened in 2001. The bathrooms were fully renovated in 2006. The spa was added in 2007.

Room The décor of my 325 square foot (30 square meter) Lanna Deluxe Room, Number 1201, continued the rustic theme of the common areas, with whitewashed rough-plastered walls and cathedral ceilings, anthracite gray polished concrete floors and dark wooden furniture with natural woven rattan inserts. It harmoniously combined the elegant simplicity of organic materials with modern comforts. A pair of French doors, curtained in shirred white cotton led into the room. A tan and dark green woven cotton throw rug outlined the foot of the king-size platform bed clad in crisp white high-count cotton. On the right of the bed, a bedside table held a tall lamp with a rattan cylinder base and a natural parchment shade. A barrel-shaped armchair with a white canvas cushion sat on the left of the bed. On the opposite wall, a writing desk with a wooden stool and desk lamp, and an armoire that held the television set stood on either side of the entrance door. A colorful display of rustic lacquered boxes and intricately embroidered tribal children’s hats in multiple shades of red stood on top of the armoire. A framed contemporary etching of classic northern Thai graphics hung above the desk. A tray with a tea and coffee service, and two lacquered cylinder boxes holding bottles of water were tucked in the corner next to the desk. Two large floor-to-ceiling closets on either side of central double doors partitioned the bedroom from the bathroom. At the front of the room, French doors opened onto an inviting roofed balcony. A loveseat was built into the railing. In front of it a low butler’s tray held a pot of white orchids. I especially enjoyed lingering there to reminisce on the day’s activities, or process my e-mail (via the room’s WiFi connection); or simply watch birds flutter about the flowering trees that bordered the courtyard.

In addition to a variety of tempting Thai and international dishes, the menu offered a selection of authentic northern Thai dishes, from original family recipes said to have been handed down through generations. While I cannot speak to the veracity of this claim, I can vouch for the success of the outcome. I ordered all my meals from the northern Thai menu, including breakfast when I eschewed the standard buffet offerings for a more traditional Thai soup. My dinner favorites were deep-fried bamboo shoot stuffed with ground pork, served with a hot but sweet peanut sauce; fish marinated in curry, then served en papillote in banana leaves over jasmine rice, and a divine coffee custard which I ordered repeatedly.

Facilities Ruen Tamarind, the restaurant, the Village Spa, a swimming pool and a gift and clothing boutique.

Gift Shop The attractive gift boutique was located next to the reception area. It offered a selection of clothing made from tribal textiles, antique crafts and art pieces, souvenirs created by local designers and some interesting custom and ethnic jewelry. At the time of my visit, it also featured a limited selection of gold and silver jewelry by the artists on display in the hotel’s art gallery.

Pool The 25 by 58 foot (7.65 by 17.60 meter) swimming pool was set in a sunny terracotta-tiled terrace filled with tropical plants and flowers. On two sides, the pool was surrounded by lounge chairs with apricot-colored cushions under matching garden umbrellas. On the third side, there were three daybeds lined along the high outer wall of the property, an ideal spot for sunbathing. The fourth side was the restaurant terrace, furnished with square dining tables and rattan armchairs for al fresco poolside meals.

Spa The Village Spa was a serene sanctuary located on the second floor of the most secluded courtyard within Tamarind Village. The public areas of the spa embraced the Lanna Thai architectural concept of open galleries under a tiled roof. Besides the large polished wood reception desk, the area was furnished with antique chests holding pottery bowls overflowing with impressive arrangements of orchids. Loveseats were built into the galleries’ railing to face the doors of the six treatment rooms; their white seat cushions effectively showed off a profusion of pillows covered with intricate tribal weavings in shades of crimson and fuchsia.

Veenarat Sumrej, spa supervisor, offered me a refreshing herbal beverage and invited me to select from an assortment of natural essential oils the scent I would prefer for my massage. She explained that the spa used only herbal products drawn from the Lanna Thai heritage of natural healing. She recommended the Village Signature Massage to restore my travel-weary body, and introduced me to my therapist, Phailin Duangkum. After a traditional foot bath and short foot massage, Phailin ushered me into my private treatment room. The 90-minute Signature Massage was a heavenly combination of deep-tissue massage and application of heated herbal pouches. It soothed every fiber of my body, left my skin velvet smooth and my psyche so contented that I couldn’t wait to return. I did the next day after a long hike in the mountains, for a foot reflexology treatment, which left not only my feet but also my entire body in such a state of wellbeing that I wished I could package the experience and bring it home with me.

Date Of Review October 2010

Reviewers Article and photos by Josette King

Service The room was serviced twice daily. Staff members were unfailingly attentive and friendly.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes