Overall Impression One of few lodges in the Livingstone Zambia area with striking views of Victoria Falls, the Stanley Safari Lodge was a tranquil haven of beautifully landscaped gardens and uniquely inspired architecture that blended naturally with its African bush surroundings. Located on a hillside away from the hustle and bustle of Livingstone it was a few minutes drive from Victoria Falls.

The design of the ten room Lodge was charming and unique. Architect and co-owner Vinciane Geelhand who designed the lodge ensured that the layout took full advantage of the incredible hillside views. The primary common area was housed in a massive stone structure with thatched roof and an open back wall, looking out onto an infinity pool that reflected the open blue Zambian sky. The pool had a spectacular backdrop of the African bush along with clouds of spray from the falls. The two story structure had many cozy sitting areas that were thoughtfully decorated with African adornments and furniture that blended well with the building’s stone walls and thatched roof. For reading, I especially liked the area near the stone fireplace that was decorated with antique safari relics. My favorite spot to relax was the meticulously landscaped lawn and garden surrounding the pool with plenty of lounge chairs. It was the perfect spot to take in the stunning Zambian sunsets that lit up the sky with vibrant shades of red, orange and yellow.

For me, the hospitality at Stanley Safari was an ideal balance of attentive yet unobtrusive. I felt well looked after while given the right amount of space to relax, which I appreciated after spending a number of nights in intimate quarters at other safari camps in Zambia. Staff organized meals served at the location and time that I specified, they serviced my room twice a day, and organized a personalized itinerary with two activities for me on the day of my arrival. Anytime I went to the main lodge, my personal guest relations specialist, Gelina Mubebila, asked if I wanted any refreshments.

I simply loved my accommodations. The 600 square-meter Family Suite was housed in a traditional thatched roof structure with stone walls, and an open back wall offering marvelous views of the African bush. It was a wonderful way to feel in touch with nature while enjoying all the comforts of a luxurious room. I will never forget hearing the sound of lions roaring in the distance while admiring the Zambian sunset from the comfort of one of couches built into the stone structure and topped with plush cushions. In the mornings, I awoke to breathtaking sunrises from the comfort of my king-sized bed with views of cloud like spray from the majestic Victoria Falls. My open plan split level room had a plunge pool, plenty of comfortable sitting spaces, an oversized bathtub, desk area and private lawn space. African decorations tastefully adorned the walls, which added to its charm.

Combining the attractive design of the Lodge with its tranquil setting and the attentive yet unobtrusive hospitality, Stanley Safari was the perfect way to end my safari holiday in Zambia.

Children Children of all ages were welcome

Class Of Accommodation Luxury nature lodge

Connectivity Internet service was available in the main area only. Though a slow connection, I consistently was able to access Wi-Fi.

General Manager Clara Ibara was the general manager. During my stay, Wietz du Plessis was the stand-in manager while Clara was temporarily away.

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location Stanley Safari Lodge is three and a half kilometers (two miles) upstream from Victoria Falls and about 20 minutes from downtown Livingstone. There were a number of nonstop daily flights from Lusaka and Johannesburg, South Africa to the Livingstone airport, along with multiple weekly flights from Nairobi, Kenya and Nelspruit, South Africa. The property provided transportation to and from the airport. When I was there the usual 15 minute-ride from Livingstone airport was more like 30 minutes due to construction on the main road. The last leg of the journey was on a dirt road, surrounded by trees and in a quiet and noticeably more secluded setting away from central Livingstone.

Managed In spring of 2013, Robin Pope Safaris took over the management of Stanley Safari Lodge.

Owned Reinout de Gruijter, Vinciane Geelhand and Robin Pope Safaris.

Pets Allowed No

Size Stanley Safari Lodge had ten rooms, four Suites and six Cottages spread out over 11 hectares of land on a hillside in the middle of 100 acres of private land in the African bush. In total, the lodge could accommodate up to 22 guests. Of the 36 employees, the majority were local Zambians.

Year Open-Renovated Stanley Safari Lodge opened in 2002. In addition to continuous renovations and maintenance, a back wall had been added to the previously opened wall of one of the cottages and two of the suites. Three other accommodations also had a canvas wall added to them that could roll down at nighttime. Four of the rooms still had an open back wall facing out onto the African Bush for those wishing to get a bit closer to nature.

Lobby And Common Areas The first thing I noticed when pulling up to Stanley Safari Lodge was the tidy landscaped grounds of flowers, bushes and a dirt path leading to an open circular lobby with thatched roof. A wooden reception desk with African decorations above it had built-in circular stone benches with cushions on either side. Opposite the reception desk there was a small gift shop with locally crafted African wooden carvings, jewelry, and other memorabilia. Travel necessities, such as toothpaste were also for sale.

Behind the lobby, there was a well kept gravel pathway surrounded by beautiful gardens of brightly colored flowers, trees and shrubbery common in the region. The path led to the main common area, a stunning two-story thatch roof structure with stonewalls that was 6,500 square feet in size. It housed the dining room, bar, lounge area with a stone fireplace and a number of pleasing sitting areas thoughtfully decorated and fun to explore. The oxidized concrete floor had an attractive burnt orange finish. A massive open entryway provided beautiful views to the jewel of the lodge, the infinity pool surrounded by gardens and the African bush. The upstairs had a library with a comfortable large bed looking out onto the landscaped grounds, the African bush beyond and the mist of Victoria Falls even farther off in the distance. The décor of the main area was classic safari with original antiques and African artwork throughout. The overall effect was an inviting atmosphere and peaceful surroundings. I found it so appealing that I opted to relax and take advantage of the surroundings of the lodge instead of partaking in the many river activities available to guests.

Bathroom My room had an open layout, so the bathroom was just a few steps down from the sleeping area. The dominant feature was a grandiose oxidized cement and stone bathtub built into the wall. I climbed up the stone step leading to the bath and enjoyed a glorious hot bubble bath before dinner. On either side of the bathtub there was a countertop, made of oxidized cement that matched the floors and stone, with double washbasins. The bathroom also had a separate shower. For privacy, the flush toilet was in a separate room, a short walk down an open hallway behind the main structure of the building.

Room I stayed in the Family Suite, which was a pleasant one-minute walk to the main lodge on a well-groomed gravel path. The open-plan 600 square feet room was housed in a stone and thatch split-level structure with an open back wall that offered lovely views of the African bush and Victoria Falls. Near the entrance two twin-sized stone benches built into the wall were covered with plush cushions and an abundance of throw pillows that could be used as sleeping quarters for kids. Also in the entryway there was a mini-fridge with water and other beverages, a wooden desk and a chair. Two small stone steps led to the main sleeping area where a king sized bed protected by mosquito netting was positioned against a wall. It offered optimal views of the landscape. There was an attractive wooden armoire with shelves and a security box. Waking up in my room to a striking sunrise and the mist from the falls is a memory that will last me a lifetime. Between the bed and the open lawn there was a private stone plunge pool large enough for six guests. Around the pool, there were curved stone-sitting benches with comfortable cushion tops and a bunch of throw pillows.

Food And Restaurants The European cuisine with hints of African influence was consistently tasty and satisfying. For breakfast I chose from a number of options such as eggs and toast, a traditional English breakfast, or French toast. I opted for fruit, yogurt, toast, coffee, and juice. The Zambian coffee was so robust in flavor that half a cup usually did the trick. On my first day, I arrived at the lodge in the late afternoon and enjoyed a traditional Mediterranean style tuna salad with a side of delicious warm sweet corn bread. Light and refreshing, it was the perfect lunch after many heavier meals at other lodges. Dinners at Stanley Safari were yummy and substantial three course meals. While I was there there was spanakopita, vegetable curry with a thick gravy base that had a comfort food touch, tilapia and vegetables, and crème brulee for dessert.

One of the delights of eating at Stanley Safari was choosing a spot to dine. So long as another guest had not already reserved a location, the staff happily set up a table wherever I wished. With so many nooks and crannies offering lovely views of the meticulously landscaped grounds and the African Bush in the background, it was hard to choose. For lunch and dinner I dined in the neatly manicured garden near the swimming pool. I appreciated the thick wool blanket the staff placed on the chair and the personal stove filled with hot coals they set next to my chair to keep me warm on the cool Zambian nights. For breakfast I dined on the upper deck overlooking the pool and garden area.

Amenities When I arrived at Stanley Safari Lodge, I was greeted by my personal guest relations specialist, Gelina Mubebila, who offered me a cool wet washcloth and a glass of refreshing lemonade. Meals and drinks were included in the room rate, along with daily laundry service (limited to ten articles of clothing a day), and transfer to and from the airport. Room amenities included: soap, shower gel, foam bath, and shampoo in large dispensers. There were plenty of plush bath towels of varying sizes, and room and body insect repellant sprays and lotions. Stanley Safari could arrange an outside spa specialist to offer treatments in the comfort of the guest’s room.

Facilities Opposite the reception desk there was a small gift shop with African wooden carvings, jewelry, toiletries and memorabilia.

Pool The pool area was so delightful that, other than the two tours I took, I spent most of my time there. From the 20 by 40 feet infinity pool I could see the African bush and the mist from Victoria Falls in the distance. Surrounding the pool, there were lounge chairs with comfortable canvas padding, perfect for napping in the sun. Anytime I sat in a pool lounge chair, like clockwork a staff member cordially offered me a beverage of my choice. Two large white canvas umbrellas that matched the chairs were available for those desiring shade. While it was too cold to swim, I enjoyed watching birds flutter about in the landscaped surrounding garden area. The pool was also a spectacular location to enjoy a sundowner while watching the Zambian sunset reflected against the water.

Activities The property offered fee based activities and excursions that took advantage of the Zambezi River and Victoria Falls, including: bungee jumping, canoeing, white water rafting, fishing river cruises, and tours of the Falls via walking, helicopter or ultra light flights. During my stay at the lodge I went on two tours. Because I happened to be visiting during the super moon, I went on an evening tour of the falls to get a glance of a moonlit rainbow. Although it was interesting, I much preferred my walking daytime tour of the falls.

Other Stanley Safari Lodge was on the electrical power grid and ran on 220 volts and 50 hertz electricity. In my room, I used a three-prong adapter, compatible with United Kingdom plugs.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit June 2013

Reviewers Article and Photos by Laura Scheiber

Service The service at Stanley Safari was consistently helpful yet understated and personalized. Stanley Safari driver and Victoria Falls guide, Effeso Hammabola, picked me up at the airport. He had a laid back disposition, which I found calming. While we chatted on our way to the Lodge, I asked how to properly pronounce several words in his native Tonga language. He was ever patient with my horrific accent and we shared a lot of laughs during the drive. Effeso was also my guide to Victoria Falls and provided interesting tidbits of information throughout the tours.

When I arrived at the Lodge, I was introduced to Gelina Mubebila, a guest relations specialist who arranged my meals, activities and addressed any questions or needs I had. Unassuming by nature, she was courteous, attentive, and seemed to magically appear whenever I was in the main area to offer me a refreshment or anything else I might need. She also served all of my meals.

Would You Stay There Again?

Overall Impression When I think of my stay at Tongabezi Lodge in Zambia, I can’t help but feel a sense of nostalgia. Tucked away in a lush green setting along the Zambezi River 40 minutes upstream from Victoria Falls, this luxury lodge with eleven rooms included meals, drinks, and an impressive array of activities. With a ratio of three staff members per guest, the personalized care was top notch.

I had my own personal valet, Japhet Nawa, the only one allowed in my room and whose primary responsibility during my stay was taking care of me (and he did an outstanding job). Along with Japhet, I had the opportunity to get to know a number of the staff members during activities, such as river guide, Captain Victor, and safari drive guide, Fabias. Each provided excellent service, always with a smile. I enjoyed fascinating conversations with them about their years growing up in the African bush.

The food was consistently tasty and healthy, made with organic ingredients, and served with thoughtfulness and care. My room was on the edge of the river and shaded by large water berry trees. It was a good spot to relax, especially while soaking up the sun in a lounge chair on my private terrace looking out onto the beautiful Zambezi River and listening to birdsong.

Opportunities for viewing river wildlife were outstanding. Never had I gotten so close to crocodiles as I did during a sunset cruise at the lodge. I felt in good hands with Captain Victor, who in his lifetime had captured over 800 crocodiles and set them free in areas of the river where they were less likely to be hunted. Bird viewing was also fantastic during river outings and the river guides offered informed explanations of the many varieties we saw. I saw vervet monkeys along the groomed pathway on the way to my room. I also saw “Henry the hippo” munching on grass at night. He had been a nightly visitor of Tongabezi for the last several years. I got a kick out of being told to peak out of my room in the late evening hours before stepping outside because hippos sometimes liked to rest on my terrace.

All in all I thoroughly enjoyed my stay at Tongabezi. It offered thoughtfully designed luxury accommodations on the banks of the Zambezi River with outstanding personalized service. The lodge was an ideal haven where I enjoyed adrenaline-pumping activities just as much as quiet moments appreciating the natural surroundings. Should I be in Zambia again, I look forward to returning with my husband for a romantic getaway and pampering.

Children Youngsters aged seven and older were welcome at Tongabezi.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury river lodge with an array of inclusive activities

Connectivity Though slow, I always had Wi-Fi while in the Lookout Building (Wi-Fi was also available in the pool area and by the reception area).

General Manager Rudy Boribon

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location Situated on the bank of the Zambezi River, Tongabezi Lodge was approximately 12 miles (20 kilometers) from Victoria Falls, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and about 27 kilometers from the city of Livingstone.

Owners Benjamin and Vanessa Parker

Size Tongabezi occupied 105,000 square meters (26 acres), of which 300 meters were on the bank of the Zambezi River. The lodge had eleven rooms, five Cottages and six Houses that, in total, could accommodate up to 32 guests. Tongabezi had 60 employees.

Transportation There were a number of nonstop daily flights from Lusaka and Johannesburg, South Africa to the Livingstone airport, along with multiple weekly flights from Nairobi, Kenya and Nelspruit, South Africa. Tongabezi provided transportation to and from the airport, which took a little over 40 minutes. The driver explained that there were slight delays because of construction, and that usually the ride took about half an hour. Though the majority of the ride was on tarmac roads, the last 15 minutes was on a dirt road in the bush.

Year Open-Renovated Tongabezi opened in 1990 with five rooms. Since then, it expanded to include The Honeymoon House, the Tree House, Bird House, Dog House, the Nut House and the Garden House. During my stay they were renovating the Dog House. All of the Cottages were renovated two years prior to my visit. The renovation included an extension of the deck area made of flagstone tile.

Lobby And Common Areas The lobby was in an open circular thatched roof structure. Plush cushions sat on top of stoned seating that aligned the edges of the lobby with throw pillows covered in Africa-style prints. Opposite the reception desk was a small gift shop with African wooden carvings, jewelry, purses, t-shirts and other memorabilia.

Behind the lobby was a well-tended garden with huge ebony trees and other native greenery. A flagstone-tiled walkway with stairs led to the central common room where guests could enjoy wonderful views of the bank of the Zambezi River. There was a two-story wooden Lookout Building with a thatched roof and an open back wall that offered outstanding river views. In the entryway sat a desk and computer where guests could access the Internet. In the adjoining room, there was a wooden dining table covered in a tablecloth and wooden bench-style seating that could accommodate 10 guests. The room was tastefully decorated with wooden lamps, stools, and a decorative table with an attractive mirror above it. On the day I arrived, I enjoyed a delicious three-course private lunch while looking out onto the serene river landscape. Next to the building was a small wooden dock where Tongabezi boat activities began.

A walkway connected the Lookout Building to a deck made of flagstone tile and wooden floors in the central common area. The deck housed a fire pit surrounded by several wooden director’s chairs with canvas seating. It also served as a dining area where I immensely enjoyed sunrise breakfasts along the riverbank. The common area also included a bar, dining and lounge areas, under a tall thatched roof with a triangular-shaped entryway. The lounge had a lovely fireplace, surrounded by earth-tone plush couches and throw pillows.

Bathroom The 15.7 square foot bathroom was in a separate room from the sleeping area and had a thick cloth curtain that served as a door. I found the décor of the bathroom to be charming. It had terracotta floor tiles intermixed with Mediterranean-style blue tiles. A circular stone wall surrounded the shower area. An attractive iron frame outlined the mirror above the ceramic sink, and similar to the bedroom, small iron animal-shaped knick knacks hung on the walls. An oversized sunken bathtub was next to the large window, where I enjoyed watching the African sunset while taking bubble baths. The bathroom had plenty of plush white towels.

Room I stayed in Cottage Five, about 300 meters from the bar and dining area. The 74 square meter circular room had a large thatch roof that covered an outdoor sitting area in the entryway. The room had plenty of natural light thanks to several large windows and double glass wooden doors leading out on to the patio. The windows had off-white curtains that were pulled back during the day. In the middle of the room two twinned-beds were pushed together to make one oversized bed under a mosquito-netted canopy. There was an air conditioner and heater unit above the bed. Room staff turned on an electric blanket for me during the turn down service. Near the door there was a standing fan and a wooden desk with a chair next to it.

There were small metallic decorations of animals and framed photos on the off-white plastered walls. A full-length wall mirror hung next to the bathroom. The white bedding was offset by colorful throw pillows that matched a black and rust-colored bed cover with images of animals. There were wood night stands on either side of the bed. A beige two-seater couch sat at the end of the bed. From it I could see onto the patio and river just beyond. There was a patterned deep red throw rug on top of a beige throw rug covering most of the copper-colored floor. Minor marks on the carpet and couch in front of the bed suggested wear and tear.

Food The food was another highlight of my stay at Tongabezi. It was consistently nutritious and scrumptious, made with organic ingredients, and served with class. I had the chance to meet Chef Zuwi Nawa, a native of the area, who on my first day, introduced himself and asked me to choose from the lunch menu after carefully explaining the different dishes. I appreciated that he knew I was a vegetarian and asked if I was okay eating eggs and cheese. It made me feel as if he really took on board my dietary requests. Breakfast was served from seven until nine, lunch from one to three and dinner from seven thirty until nine.

Something that I liked about dining at Tongabezi was that I could request a specific location for my evening meals. As per my request, on the first night Japhet set up a lovely candlelit dinner with tablecloth on the deck of my room. I enjoyed a tasty pea soup as a starter followed by a vegetarian’s delight of mushrooms, sautéed greens, zucchini and a sweet potato mash. The caramel pudding cake for dessert was delicious. On the second night I enjoyed another candlelit dinner with tablecloth seating on the second floor of the Lookout Building. Dinner started with a roasted tomato and ginger soup (loved those vegetable purees!), followed by fresh tilapia with spinach, asparagus and mashed potatoes, and finished with a scrumptious chocolate cake for dessert. All dinners were served with a bottle of house wine of my choice. I opted for a South African Sauvignon Blanc.

Breakfast was my favorite meal of the day not just because of the outstanding options, but also because it was so pleasant to watch the sunrise over the Zambezi River while sitting in the outdoor dining area. Breakfast started with a visit to a self-serve cart filled with a selection of fresh fruits and juices, cereals, cottage cheese, jams, yogurt and delicious Zambian coffee. Though this in itself would have been enough, after sitting down at my table a timid but friendly waitress handed me a menu that included one mouth-watering choice after another. I opted for the French toast with coconut. It was so good that I ordered it the next day without taking a glance at the menu.

Amenities Room amenities included daily complimentary laundry service, a safe big enough to fit a small laptop computer and SLR camera, room and body insect repellant spray, bathrobes made of Chitenage, soap, shampoo, shower gel, and body cream in large dispensers labeled Tongabezi. Skin brand toiletries were made with organic ingredients. There was bottled water in a mini-fridge in the outdoor seating area of the entryway. Additional drinks could be stocked in the fridge upon request. I especially liked the complimentary bottle of sparkling wine I found in a bucket of ice. It went perfectly with the candlelit bubble bath Japhet had waiting for me on my return from a full day of activities. Meals and drinks were included in the nightly room fees. Guests could request massage treatments in their room for an additional fee.

Gift Shop Opposite the reception desk was a small gift shop with African wooden carvings, jewelry, purses, t-shirts and other memorabilia.

Pool The outdoor pool was set near a rocky ledge next to the main dining and bar area. The pool was 10 meters long by seven meters wide and three meters deep. The deck area was made of earth-tone flagstone tile and a beautiful massive ebony tree shaded the entire pool area. Guests could enjoy river views from the pool. Because of the cooler weather, I did not spend any time there.

Game Viewing Though technically not a game lodge, while at the property I saw hippos, crocodiles, monkeys, and a variety of birds: hammerkops, white-fronted beeaters, cape doves, red cormorants, Egyptian geese, and hadeda ibis. At Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park I saw buffalo, impalas, zebras, pukus, giraffes, monkeys, baboons, vultures and other birds.

Activities Fishing, canoeing, lunch on an island in the Zambezi River, a walking tour of Victoria Falls, game drives in the Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park, sunrise and sunset boat cruises, and a visit to the neighboring school initiated by Tongabezi co-owner, Vanessa Parker were complimentary for lodge guests. Third party activities, such as a gourmet lunch and tour of Livingstone Island, were available for a fee.

While I was having lunch on the day of my arrival in the Lookout Tower, Quentino Mbingi, the activities director, introduced himself and shared a list of activities included in my accommodations rate, as well as others available at additional cost. Quentino explained each of the activities before stepping away to give me time to decide. He popped by after lunch to help me devise an itinerary that would allow me to squeeze in the many activities I wished to experience during my three-day stay. I was impressed at how accommodating and how quickly he put together a splendid activities program that hit all of my requests. He was friendly, professional and efficient. In the end, I chose a sunset boat cruise, a game drive at Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park, lunch on an island in the Zambezi River, a fishing excursion, canoe trip and a visit to the Trust Fund School.

I enjoyed all of the activities, including a surprise visit to Livingstone Island. During the excursion I had the unique opportunity of sitting in a natural bathing pool in the Zambezi River on the edge of the 100-meter drop of Victoria Falls.

Other Although I could come and go as I pleased during the daytime, at nighttime I used a walkie talkie to request an escort from my room since animals were known to walk around the grounds.

Tongabezi was on the electrical power grid and ran on 220 volts electricity. In my room, I used a three-prong adapter, compatible with United Kingdom plugs.

I appreciated Tongabezi’s commitment to the education of local children. Upon entering my room, a welcome card, hand-written in crayon by a child, sat on my bed surrounded in rose petals. I soon learned that it was from one of the children attending Tujatane, the Tongabezi Trust School, a two-minute walk from my room. Vanessa Harper, the wife of Tongabezi owner Ben Harper, created and directed the school for children of staff members and children living in neighboring rural towns. Since its inception in 1996, the school has had bragging rights to outstanding school performance compared to other neighboring schools, thanks to its rigorous curriculum, effective school management, and necessary financial support from Tongabezi guests. I toured the school on my last day and heard numerous success stories about alumni. To name a few, one of the students from the original pre-k class had just finished his third year of medical school in the United States. Another had just gotten his commercial pilot’s license. What impressed me about the school was its comprehensive approach to addressing the developmental needs of students. In addition to formal schooling, Tujatane also ensured that the students’ medical needs and overall health issues were addressed. At the time of my visit, the school had over 200 students and had classes up to ninth grade.

Throughout my stay, staff members described a number of ways in which the Tongabezi owners invested in their employees, as well as efforts to support the local community. For example, Fabias told me that the owners had built of number of housing units within walking distance of Tongabezi for staff members who lived too far away to commute on a daily basis. Living in the mini-village meant staff members could be with their families during the workweek. The property also provided transportation for employees commuting to and from Livingstone. Quentino appreciated the additional training the property provided its employees. He started out as a mechanic, for example, and worked his way up to becoming a certified river guide thanks to Tongabezi’s support. Guides, waiters and housekeeping staff, I was told, were given an opportunity to engage in interactive online training. The chef received ongoing training every three years either from a visiting chef or by traveling overseas for a month at the company’s expense.

Tongabezi received the 2012 Travel + Leisure Global Vision Award for community building. The lodge had 2012 and 2013 Trip Advisor Certificates of Excellence.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit June 2013

Reviewers Article and Photos by Laura Scheiber

Service One of the most outstanding aspects of Tongabezi was the service. I could not have asked for a better personal valet. Japhet was consistently attentive while not being invasive. He always seemed to be two steps ahead of me in terms of planning out my days and ensuring I had everything I needed. Before I set off on a full day of activities, he asked what time and where I wished to have dinner. My room was serviced at least twice a day, and every time I came back it had been tidied up.

I had the opportunity to chat in depth with a number of staff members during activities, and found them to be consistently friendly, attentive and helpful. While trying to decide between a fishing trip or sunset cruise on my way back from Livingstone Island, Fabias phoned Tongabezi to find out which activities had available slots. When I got a late start to my private canoe trip Captain Victor and Quentino adjusted to my schedule without a bat of an eye. During all of the activities, the staff offered me refreshments and they often checked in with me to ensure I was having a good time.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression The wide range of activities available at this lodge set it apart from many other camps. While at Sussi, we experienced game drives in the Mosi-oi-Tunya National Park, a trip to the world famous Livingstone Falls, and riverboat rides at sunset where we viewed wildlife from the river. The sunsets on the upper Zambezi River were some of the most stunning we have ever seen. Because Sussi Lodge was within the Mosi-oi-Tunya National Park there was an abundance of wildlife that came into the camp area, and the wildlife viewing from the common areas overlooking the upper Zambezi River was outstanding

The staff at Sussi, always polished and professional, was warm and friendly. The food was equally good, served on a flexible schedule to accommodate the many different activities guests could choose from during their stay. The open air dining area provided a great view of the Zambezi River from which we were able to watch a variety of wild life including, Nile crocodile, hippos, and water birds while we ate our meals.

Mosi-oi-Tunya National Park was the home of the only two rhinos in the entire country of Zambia. We had sightings of these rhino on both of our safari game drives. It was the best viewing of wild rhino we have experienced to date. Although it is a rather small national park, it had plentiful wildlife allowing us to enjoy a good overall safari experience. There were no predators there. Since the Park is not large enough to accommodate a fully intact eco system, visitors eager to see lions, hyena, cheetah and wild dogs may feel a bit disappointed. On the other hand, the birding was exceptional and we were amazed by how many animals we spotted in this park. We enjoyed our first game drive so much that on our second day when it came time to choose an activity, we chose a second game drive to this park rather than one of the many other activities available.

We visited Victoria Falls which is always a treat. Our stay was during the dry season so the falls were much different on this trip than on previous trips. We enjoyed the falls during the dry season because we were able to see the canyon created by the falls better than we could during the wet season.

Our room, a luxury tree house built into the living canopy of the giant ebony trees along the bank of the Zambezi River, had a wonderful view of the river which was teaming with wildlife.

During our stay at Sussi Lodge, we enjoyed open air evening camp fires, raised bar and lounge deck, open air dining, swimming pool and massage spa area on the bank of the river.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury tree-houses built into ebony trees

General Manager Rob and Ellen Walker

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location Sussi was located near Victoria Falls and Livingstone in Zambia. The lodge was 9 kilometers outside of Livingstone. It was approximately 20 minutes by car from the international airport.

Owned And Managed Star of Africa Ltd.

Size The Sussi Lodge occupied 20 acres in the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park which is 66 square kilometers in size. Within the Lodge 48 staff members looked after the property and its guests. There were 10 en suite tree houses including seven twin rooms and three double bed rooms. The Chuma house which was also part of the lodge property had two en suite bedrooms. Sussi could accommodate up to 24 guests sharing, or 12 people in single units.

Handicapped access This camp was not handicapped accessible. They were willing to accommodate handicapped travelers by providing on site staff support.

Year Opened-Most Recent Renovation The Lodge, under new management, was being renovated when visited. A second Chuma house was being added.

Lobby And Common Areas The Lodge was decorated with traditional African Art. In the common areas we noticed there were Giclee art prints from paintings of regional and nationally known wild life artists. There were a variety of wood carvings of local birds and other animals distributed around the property.

Bathroom There was an en-suite toilet, basin, shower and bath tub within our circular tree room. The bathroom facilities were located on the back side of the room behind our bed. The toilet had solid wooden walls and a private door. The shower was located along the wall next to the toilet and was enclosed with glass doors. The bath tub was inside the main room as were the his and hers sinks. There was hot water for showers and electricity for shavers and hair dryers was available.

Room We stayed in Room 5, which was 120 square feet in size. Our room was a luxury tree house that was built into the living canopy of the giant ebony trees along the bank of the Zambezi River. Our viewing deck looked out onto the Zambezi River which was teaming with wildlife. Our room was circular shaped with hardwood floors, solid wood walls and a thatched roof.

It had a canopy bed with mosquito netting and a ceiling fan. We especially appreciated that the room always had utility power available, making it possible for us to run the ceiling fan which helped keep us cool during the hottest part of the day.

Our room had a refrigerator stocked with water, sodas and beer, two double beds, two indoor and two outdoor chairs, a small table and chair, two night stands, and a free standing clothes closet. We enjoyed watching wildlife from our private viewing deck with cool drinks from our en suite refrigerator.

Food Meal times varied depending on game drives. Meals were served outdoors in the raised lounge area where we were able to view wildlife along the Zambezi River while we ate. They served three meals a day. Soft drinks, local beers and house wines were included in the daily rate. Meals were served at a private table.

Breakfast was English style with bacon, eggs, baked tomato, baked beans, sausage, homemade toast, fresh juices, coffee or tea, a fruit and cereal bar and fresh homemade muffins. For lunch we had beef kabob, pasta herb with green spinach and vegetable salads. For desert a light flakey pastry with diced applies was served. For dinner we had baked fish (bream) over rice, with sliced vegetables, corn and carrots, potato soup, moist chocolate cake (called pudding by the locals) and hot homemade rolls.

Amenities Our room had the following complimentary amenities: mini bar, bath robes, toiletries, liquid and bar soap, shampoo, conditioner, body lotion, a candle with matches, bottled water, Coca Cola, MOSI Beer (an excellent local beer), Sprite, tea and coffee making facilities in the form of a hot water maker, Five Roses English Tea, sweeteners (white sugar), Nescafe Rocoffy Instant Coffee, and Nestle Cremola Creamer. Road transfers from Victoria Falls town and laundry service were also provided.

Facilities Lodge facilities included, safari spa, library, bar, swimming pool, curio shop, and conference facilities.

Pool The circular outdoor swimming pool had a 30 foot diameter with flowing water running over the sides. The pool was filled with filtered water, which had an inviting appearance and temperature. It was about four or five feet deep. There were lounge chairs with umbrellas.

Spa The masseuse we met was Mercy Banda, who had more than eight years of experience. The one hour massage, given on a table in a spa facility situated on the edge of the Zambezi River, a relaxing setting for a massage, was excellent.

Game We rode in a 4×4 game vehicle with a covered top. One guide drove our vehicle and also spotted wildlife. On a subsequent game drive one guide drove, and another guide, who was in training, spotted wildlife. The river boat rides had one driver and one assistant who helped people on an off of the boat.

There was great wildlife viewing in this Lodge. We spotted the following animals at the Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park, cormorant, Nile crocodile, hippo, African darter, pied kingfisher, waterbuck, impala, yellow billed kite, giraffe, white spotted weaver, white browed sparrow weaver, buffalo, frog hopper, duiker, blue wildebeest, baboons, monitor lizard, white rhino, lilac breasted roller, crested barbet, red billed horned bill, blacktit, wart hog, palm thrush, brown hooded king fisher, elephant, grey horned bill, Franklin birds, vervet monkey, Egyptian goose, spar winded goose, red billed ox pecker, fish eagle, blacksmith plover, African black stork, clawless otter, giant king fisher, guinea fowl, Crawshay’s zebras

Activities We were able to choose two activities per day from the following: A guided tour of Victoria Falls and rain forest on the Zambian side; game drive in the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park where Zambia’s only white rhino can be spotted; a cultural tour of Livingstone including a visit to the Livingstone Museum and the Maramba Village; nature walks in the surrounding area; a shopping tour in Livingstone town; an early morning or sunset river cruise on a 12-seat boat; and fishing in the Zambezi River. We chose the game drive in the Mosi-oa-Tunya National park and the sunset river cruise on boat on the Zambezi River. We especially liked the game drives.

For an additional cost these activities were also available: White water rafting, canoeing, sunset cruises, helicopter and microlight adventures, horseback and elephant back safaris, bungi jumping, and spa services. We chose to try a massage at the spa.

Curio Shop The curio shop stocked African fabric items, books, clothing, and travel sundries like sunscreens and lotions.

Other The library contained some good wild life game viewing books. We used them on several occasions to find more information about an obscure animal we saw during a game drive.

Children under six years were only accepted through prior arrangement with management.

This Lodge ran on utility power. The rooms had 220 VAC power at 50 Hz with NW-135C adapters. There was also a backup generator in camp in case utility power was lost. Utility power was lost during our stay and we heard the backup generator turn on during this power outage. It was during this time that we enjoyed the ceiling fan in our room. There was satellite Internet computer access available from 5 to 10 p.m. in the front office.

Check-In-Check-Out Process Excellent

Cleanliness Very good.

Date Of Last Visit November 2005

Reviewers Article by Chester Godsy

Photographs by Joni Johnson-Godsy

Service The service was seamless and outstanding. Our room was tended to every time we left for an activity which turned out to be three to four times per day. The staff did a nice job of checking in with our daily experiences to make sure we found them to our liking. And they did a great job communicating with us about options available during our stay. Guides did a good job of staying with us and helping us into and out of airports and onto connecting flights. We traveled to other Star of Africa camps and found that booking the camp and the travel charter through the same company smoothed the way.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression Our visit in Songwe Village was unlike any other luxury property stay during our five-week trip. It was down to earth, literally and figuratively, with stunning gorge views and native style huts that simulated village life. The Songe staff were warm, friendly, welcoming, and accommodating. They generously shared of their time to allow us insights into Zambian village life.

Our Village was near the real Songwe village (Songwe means abundance in Leya and Toka, languages of Zambia) on a hill overlooking two of the rivers that fed the famous Victoria Falls , located on the border of Zimbabwe and Zambia . We enjoyed striking star gazing. Songwe was memorable thanks to the intimacy the village concept provided. Highlights included fireside chats with other guests and Songwe staff, discussions of village life, village dances in which we all participated, and samplings of genuine Zambian dishes (including the famous Mopane worms, which everyone in our group was brave enough to taste).

Camp Managers Dorothy and Emmanuel Shinga

Handicapped Access Limited as the ground was uneven and it was dark at night

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location An hour’s drive from Victoria Falls , 400 feet above the Zambezi Gorge

Owned Kwando Safaris

Size Eight huts; maximum of 16 guests

Utilities Songwe Village operated on generators, which ran during the day. At night they were shut down so we could enjoy the quiet Zambia evenings. The staff heated bathing water in individual wood heaters adjacent to each hut, including the shared bath huts with the scenic views. Electric power for lights, cooking and to charge any electronics was produced by the daytime generator. We received flashlights so we could see where we walked in the Village at night.

Year Opened-Renovated 1998; redesigned and updated in 2003

Common Areas Zambian village design and artifacts from Zambia and other parts of Africa. There were authentic reed baskets, calabashes, clay pots and curios, which are the cultural heritage of Toka-leya tribes. There were also weapons which were used during tribal wars in the early eighteen hundreds (1800’s).

Bathroom In the back of the hut, there was a western style toilet, a shower including hot water, a small mirror, a sink with a pitcher of water. A kind soul brought us hot water in the cold mornings and evenings.

Room Our air ventilated “hut” offered all the basic comforts including a large queen bed with mosquito netting, a night table and battery charged lamp on either side of the bed, and a trunk where the blankets were kept. After we mentioned we were cold during the winter night, the staff offered hot water bottles, which helped warm up our bed.

Food We were able to taste Zambian dishes including Mopane worms, and more traditional grilled foods including home made grilled bread. There was no dessert.

Amenities Kwando Safari travel size toiletries including foam bath, soap, body lotion, and shower caps.

Facilities A dining hut, fireside area with marvelous wraparound views of the water and three shared bathtub/shower huts, which offered striking views of the gorge and river.

Pool No

Other There were eleven undeveloped archaeological sites dating back two million years (early, middle and late Stone Age periods) on the 300-acre Songwe property. Temperatures varied widely from the evening when conditions ranged from cool to cold and the day, when it was warm and sunny. This meant we would usually shower in the afternoon when it was warm and sunny and there were no activities or meals scheduled.

There were collapsible chairs in the common open area beyond the dining/common room where guests could spend quiet time. During the day, we enjoyed the magnificent view visible from there; at night it was the ideal location for after dinner drinks and fireside conversation

The staff shared some of the village customs and told us about their lifestyle. We spent the evenings listening to them and watching their demonstrations, singing and dancing. One local young woman who led the singing stood out for her staccato clear voice. Though we could not understand the words, the staff described the theme of each song and the significance of the dance. For a few minutes all of us, staff and guests joined together, like an African village singing and dancing. It was a memorable evening with quiet serious moments, laughter and interesting fireside chats for some.

Check-In-Check-Out Process Ease Since everything was prepaid, there was no check-in or check-out to speak of. We were welcomed warmly at the airport. Departure was a solemn moment with many hand shakes, good byes and wishes for health and a good life.

Cleanliness Excellent. It seemed someone cleaned our hut everytime we left it because when we returned it was free of the dust we might have left during our last visit.

Date Of Last Visit May 2004

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Chester Godsy and Joni Johnson-Godsy

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression We enjoyed our visit to this quiet, sleepy southern Africa country of 11 million souls known for Victoria Falls, copper mining, and unspoiled abundant game viewing in its national park system. Because of limited road systems we used charter planes to get to our remote destinations. We were impressed by the quality of meals especially considering the remoteness of some of the camps we visited. We found our guides and the staff in the lodges we visited to be knowledgeable, friendly, courteous, gracious and very helpful.

Victoria Falls is a well-known Zambian destination, which is located near the town of Livingstone. We enjoyed visiting the falls in the wet and dry seasons. This allowed us to see the falls when the river was at is highest and lowest stages. During the wet season the falls thundered at full power. In a local language Victoria Falls is known as Mosi O Tunya which means smoke that thunders, an apt description of the falls during the wet season. We were impressed with the wide range of activities that were available for tourists in the vicinity of Victoria Falls.

Zambia had a well run national park system. We visited the Mosi O Tunya and South Luangwa national parks. The Mosi O Tunya, where we saw white rhino, was the smaller of the national parks, but provided excellent wildlife viewing. The South Luangwa National Park had an incredible abundance of wildlife. We found game viewing there to be very exciting.

Cost Of Visiting High to moderate

Currency The local currency was the Kwacha. We exchanged one U.S. dollar for about 4000 Zambia Kwachas.

Electrical Power System 220 volts

Health And Vaccinations There were no mandatory inoculations to enter Zambia when we visited. Our local health clinic, following Center for Disease Control guidelines, recommended visitor precautions for the following: AIDS, bilharzia , hepatitis, Malaria, rabies, sleeping sickness, tick bite fever, tetanus, and typhoid fever.

How To Get There We flew to Johannesburg and then on to Livingstone; on the way back we flew from Lusaka to Johannesburg and from there to the U.S. There were also European routes to Lusaka.

Location In Southern Africa bordering Angola, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Malawi, Mozambique, Namibia, Tanzania, Zimbabwe.

Measures Metric system

Money Issues Cities and airports had banking facilities for exchanging to local currencies. Remote locations lacked banking facilities, but camps were able to process credit cards for tips. We found that camps and airports would also take U.S. dollars.

Technology Telephone and fax service was available in major cities; cellular phone service was available near populated areas. Some of the camps we visited had satellite Internet connections.

Time G.M.T. plus two hours

Transportation Traveling long distances by road was a time consuming way to travel because the roads were not in good condition. We used charter air services to get to our remote locations.

Climate The climate is tropical. The dry season runs from April to November and the busy tourist season is generally during the dry season. The terrain in Zambia is high plateau with some mountains. We experienced the start of their dry season where temperatures were a comfortable 70 degrees Fahrenheit, and we experienced the end of the dry season in November where temperatures rose to more than 100 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, but cooled off very quickly as the sun began to drop. Many of the camps close during the rainy season at South Luangwa Park, but some continue to operate throughout the year.

Facilities There was a limited infrastructure, especially outside the major urban areas. In the cities we saw gas stations, hospitals, banks, and grocery stores. In the remote areas we saw small locally run food vendors and small grocery stores, but very little else.

Souvenirs Baskets, metal works of art, stone carvings, woodcarvings, tribal masks, ceramics, tapestry, woolen rugs, pottery and wall hangings. These items were locally made. In some cases we purchased items directly from the artisan or from the artisan’s relative.

Tourism Highlights A tropical country slightly larger than Texas, Zambia has a population of just over 11 million people. It is most famous for Victoria Falls, which is located near the town of Livingstone. There are many activities available to travelers in the vicinity of Victoria Falls, including, whitewater rafting, bungi jumping (the highest commercial jump in the world), canoeing, horseback trails, game drives, safari walks, river boarding, horseback trails, abseiling, tandem kayaking, micro-lighting, river safaris, and sunset river cruises.

When we were there Zambia had some excellent national parks. The Mosi O Tunya national park is located near the Falls where Zambia’s only white rhinos can be seen. South Luangwa National Park, 9050 square kilometers in size, was one of the greatest wildlife sanctuaries we have had the pleasure to visit. Few parks can match the diversity and richness of wildlife found at this park which is located in a remote and isolated wilderness. A large part of the park is isolated wilderness where no roads go in our out, so it remains somewhat pristine. The isolated region connected to the eastern park where most of the camps were located near the Luangwa river, which had the largest hippo population in the world. Bird watching was superb in the valley. At the end of the dry season when we visited, we saw hundreds of large water birds. One of the most beautiful water birds was the legendary crowned crane, which we saw congregating along the pans. Thornicraft’s giraffe (indigenous to this park), Crawshay’s zebras, and puku were some of the animals we saw there that are not often found in game parks. We also observed a wide variety of magnificent trees growing in the valley, including mopane, leadwood, winterthorn, palm, marula, tamarind and mighty baobab trees.

Reviewers Article by Chester Godsy

Photographs by Joni Johnson-Godsy

Would You Visit There Again? Yes

Overall ImpressionVictoria Falls is in the northwest corner of Zambia.