Overall Impression Nestled in a grove of evergreen mahogany trees on the bank of Zambia’s majestic Zambezi River, Chiawa Camp seemed more remote to us than other safari camps we had visited. To get there we had to fly to the Royal Airstrip, drive 20 minutes to the Zambezi River and take a 20-minute ride in a small motorboat while watching a gorgeous sunset against the backdrop of mountains and green trees along the riverbed. Situated in the Lower Zambezi National Park, Chiawa Camp offered luxurious tent accommodations in an iconic riverside setting with impeccable service and good game viewing. We saw three of the Big Five.

The camp had nine luxury tents that could accommodate up to 16 guests, each raised on wooden decks with river views. We stayed in Deluxe Tent Seven, complete with king-sized bed and all the fittings we might expect of a high end safari lodge. We especially liked taking hot bubble baths in the elegant claw and cloth bathtub that warmed us up on cool Zambian winter evenings. The service was superb, from the nightly hot water bottles to a private three-course lunch served on our veranda, and the food throughout was consistently good. One of the most memorable meals we’ve ever had was a candlelit barbeque dinner under a full moon on a small sand bar in the middle of the Zambezi River.

Not ten minutes after our arrival, we were hustled into a private open-top Toyota Land cruiser and sped off into the moonlit night to look for a lioness that we could hear roaring from the camp lobby. Along the way we had an exhilarating encounter with an elephant. Game viewing was not foregone on days we chose to relax in our high-end tent. From our private patio we could watch warthogs, impalas and baboons meander down a dry riverbed towards the Zambezi River.

One of the most memorable aspects of our stay was the ever present, slow moving and vast Zambezi River. It added serenity to our experience, placing us in touch with some of the natural rhythms of the beautiful Lower Zambezi National Park. It was a delight to sit quietly at breakfast, sipping coffee, and watch the river glide by.

The camp also had a vibrant history. While there we met co-owner Grant Cumings. Over dinner he shared riveting stories about battles with poachers in the early days of the property. Chiawa’s legacy of conservation added to the atmosphere of the place, and the staff’s commitment to responsible tourism made us even bigger fans of the property.

Chiawa had everything we could ask for including stunning natural beauty, authentic conservation credentials, excellent game viewing with accomplished guides, grand tented accommodations and exemplary service. For an authentic safari experience with class and social consciousness, we would return in a heartbeat.

Children Children eight years and older were welcome.

Class Of Accommodation Superior luxury safari tents

Connectivity Although our tent had Wi-Fi the owners requested that we keep usage to reasonable levels as the same connection was also used for day-to-day operations.

General Manager Joshua Chizuwa

Handicapped Access There was no handicapped access due to the dangers associated with wildlife and the remote location of the camp.

Length Of Stay 3 nights

Location Chiawa is located on the bank of the Zambezi River within the Lower Zambezi National Park. We flew by small plane from Lusaka to Royal (35 minutes), followed by a short overland drive (20 minutes) to a boat, which took us to the camp (20 minutes).

Managed Dave and Jenny Cumings ran operations from Lusaka, while Grant and Lynsey Cumings were based at Chiawa and Lusaka.

Owned The Cumings family.

Pets No pets were allowed.

Size The camp had nine luxury tents that could accommodate up to 16 guests. The camp covered two acres (48,000 square meters), within the 75 mile (120 kilometers) river frontage of the Lower Zambezi National Park. There were 45 staff members at the camp, including six guides and trackers.

Year Opened And Date Of Most Recent Renovation Founded in 1989, Chiawa’s most recent major renovations took place in 2008 when the staff completely rebuilt six tents from the ground up. We stayed in Tent Seven, the next tent up for renovations. Each year the Camp fine-tuned and tweaked its infrastructure, according to management representatives.

Lobby And Common Areas The bar and reception were in a two-story traditional open thatched structure with optimal views of the magnificent Zambezi River. The structure was made of regional building materials, with rosewood decks, hardwood tables and comfortable overstuffed couches with natural cotton cushions. The second floor viewing deck had comfortable seating options, perfect for relaxing while taking in the view of the river. Towards the back of the building on the first floor was a small library of roughly 45 books that evolved through a guest book exchange. African baskets and other knick knacks blended easily into the décor and added texture to the overall charm of the area. The Traditional Safari Camp style was described by Grant as “a nice balance of form and function rather than boutique hotel.”

Several feet away another open wooden structure with thatched roof housed the dining area. In it were long wooden tables that could accommodate up to ten guests each. At nighttime the tables were lit by candlelight. The overall effect was charming and romantic. Near the dining area, towards the river, there was an open fire pit surrounded by a circle of wooden and canvas field chairs. We typically ate our breakfast there, looking out onto the Zambezi as it glided past.

In between the bar and dining areas there were two public restrooms in a thatch roof structure with thick linen curtains attractively draped over the doorways. The public sink area had hand soap and linen napkins.

Bathroom The bathroom was adjacent to the sleeping area, separated by a wooden partition. An elegant claw and cloth bathtub was in the middle, offering views out onto the dry riverbed. We indulged in several wonderful hot bubble baths with Molton Brown bath gel. Behind the bathtub there were double washbasins, toilet and shower. The toilet and shower were partitioned by a wooden wall. The shower had a large rain showerhead with consistently hot water that felt heavenly after a busy day of safari activities. Outside the tent there was a wooden veranda with an outdoor shower surrounded by a tall wooden privacy fence. It was too cold to use the outdoor shower. There were plenty of plush towels. A large laundry basket sat in the corner. We could leave clothing there to be washed and returned within 24 hours.

Room We stayed in Deluxe Tent Seven, which was elevated on a wooden deck made of commercially harvested pine. It was approximately 23 feet (7 meters) by 36 feet (11 meters) in size. A grass-thatched roof protected the tent from the afternoon sun. The canvas tent faced southwest, offering excellent views out onto the dried Chowe riverbed running into the Zambezi River. The tent was open-fronted (covered by a thick mosquito net), so we could easily watch game such as baboons, waterbuck and warthogs come down to the water’s edge to drink. The décor was classic safari with dark mahogany furniture. The comfortable king-sized bed was covered in Egyptian linen white bed sheets and protected by mosquito netting. A ceiling fan and light were above the bed while small wooden nightstands with reading lamps were on either side of it. In one corner of the room there was a wooden desk and chair and standing fan, and in the middle of the sitting area there was a comfortable overstuffed off-white upholstered love seat with rust-colored throw pillows. A dark wooden coffee table was on top of a neutral colored throw rug. Along the wooden partition that separated the sleeping area from the bathroom there was a large mirror in a mahogany frame above a wooden table. Next to it was a tall wooden shelf unit that provided plenty of room to store personal items. Large pottery containers filled with tall feathery dried-out reeds added a finished look to the décor.

We had a delightful lunch one day on the veranda. A wooden sofa with cushions and a wooden table provided a spot to watch wildlife meander down to the river.

Meals The food, described by the owners as a fusion between Western and African cultures, was consistently good during our stay. Chefs Amos and George, and bakers Dakwa and Samuel, were trained in house by South African chefs, as well as visiting chefs from as far as San Francisco.

Breakfasts were served buffet style by the fire pit, close to the river. There was a wide choice of cereals, toast, muffins, porridge, fruit and yoghurt, with the option of eggs cooked to choice over the open fire. The serene backdrop of the Zambezi River made breakfast extra special.

Dinners were fresh and tasty four-course meals (with exception of an outstanding barbeque on the final night). Dinner on the first night was preceded by a performance of the male staff members singing traditional African songs. We were escorted to a candlelit table on the open deck of the dining area, and the meal started with a caramelized onion tarte, followed by butternut squash soup, tilapia with lemon and butter with potato croquettes and sautéed veggies, and complete with a caramelized salted cake. South African red and white wines were offered throughout the meal, along with coffee and tea for dessert.

Though the food in and of itself was outstanding, equally impressive were the varied places where meals were served. On the second day, we had lunch on a boat floating in the river, and at our request, on the veranda outside our tent on the third day. On the boat, we had rice, pepper and cheese salad, accompanied by rosemary bread (the property freshly baked breads were notable), stuffed chicken breast and roast potato, followed by a cheese and fruit selection for dessert. We were also offered sparkling wine, but declined because we did not want to be sleepy during the afternoon canoe trip. In the late afternoon, treats such as brie with jam or cakes were served with tea and coffee.

On our last night we had one of the most memorable dining experiences of our lives. Dinner was served under a full super moon on a sandbank in the Zambezi River. Unbeknownst to us, the staff had spent a good part of the afternoon setting up family style dining tables with tablecloths, glassware, stemware, candles and a full bar. They even brought over a fully functional toilet, curtained off for privacy. The scenery was absolutely stunning as we watched the sunset while sipping pre dinner drinks. It was the perfect spot to watch the super moon slowly ascend into the sky. The food was cooked on the sandbar over an open fire. On offer was a barbeque selection of chicken, beef and pork with a variety of salads. Also available were a range of traditional Zambian foods such as Nshima (the main cornmeal staple of the country), creamed spinach with peanut sauce, and elephant bread (a bread made with beer). We had no room for dessert.

Amenities Beverages, food, and activities were included in the nightly rate. Other amenities included linen bathrobes, and complimentary laundry service. For cultural reasons ladies personal items were excluded from the laundry service. Those could be hand washed using Ecologica brand name laundry soap. There were cotton balls and swabs, two 1.2 ounce bottles of Ecologica conditioning shampoo, shower gels and body lotion, a 9.6 ounce bottle of Molton Brown lotion and bath soap, and insect repellant for skin and another for clothes. The room had a safe and walkie talkie to call porters to walk us to the bar and dining area at night.

We had no need to cool down because we visited in winter. The staff informed us that in the summer months guests could wear special wet towels to bed with the fans on instead of air conditioning associated with high power consumption.

Facilities A gift shop and in the main common area, there was also a small library (about 45 books donated by guests through a book exchange).

Gift Shop Chiawa had a small gift shop of local crafts and jewelry, opened on request. I bought several colorful necklaces handmade of recycled materials by a group of women belonging to a cooperative.

Pool A small circular outdoor plunge pool (about three meters in diameter) sat next to the bar area, surrounded by five sun loungers.

Game Viewing As soon as we arrived, we were hustled into a Toyota Land Cruiser with a guide and armed scout and sped off into the moonlit night to find the lioness we had heard roaring from the camp. Rounding a corner we surprised an elephant, which charged us while trumpeting angrily. Our driver reacted quickly. The exhilarating experience will stay with us forever. A few minutes later we found the lioness on the ground calling out to her pride. Hearing the volume of her roar, so powerful that we could feel it reverberate in our chest, was another priceless memory we took with us. The spotlight held by the scout had a red filter, which management believed was less intrusive than traditional spotlights on the animals eyes.

On the second day, we took a three hour canoe trip with game viewing. Being in the water allowed us to get closer to some of the animals than if we had been on land. After riding upstream by motorboat for 20 minutes, we canoed back via the Inkhalange Channel before paddling down the Zambezi River. At one point we drifted past a huge crocodile, only to watch it slip into the river. It was good incentive to keep our fingers out of the water. We felt we were in good hands as Wallace, our certified river guide, had carefully reviewed safety rules before we got into the four-person canoe with lifejackets. Each canoe had two guests and a guide. Just before sunset we watched a herd of elephants including young ones cross the river, led by a cautious matriarch. It was another unforgettable memory. We watched in awe the social interaction of those spectacular animals from about 50 feet, including baby elephants interlocking trunks with older ones.

On the third day, we hopped in an open Land Cruiser ready for a walking safari, but took a detour when we heard the sound of a roaring lion. A few minutes later we came across a beautiful male lion casually walking along a dirt path in the morning sun. During our two and a half hour walk through the bush, we saw beautiful open landscapes with Chirapila Mountain in the distance. We also saw impalas and warthogs, and “Limpy” the elephant, a well-known local to the camp who earned his nickname due to his distinctive walk. In the afternoon, we went on a boat safari, during which we took photos of two elephants crossing the river and munching on fresh grass on a small island. The light on the Zambezi River just before sunset was striking and ideal for taking wildlife photos.

During our stay we saw: lions, African elephants, African buffalos, kudus, common waterbucks, impalas, bushbucks, hippopotamuses, baboons, monkeys, bats, and warthogs.

In terms of birds, we saw: greenbacked herons, squacco herons, Goliath herons, cattle egrets, great white egrets, hammerkops, hadeda ibis, glossy ibis, cardinal woodpeckers, black-eyed bulbuls, yellow-bellied bulbuls, crested spurfowls, natal spurfowls, fish eagles, martial eagles, greater honeyguides, tropical boubou shrikes, puffback shrikes, little bee eaters, white-fronted bee eaters, brownhooded kingfishers, giant kingfishers, pied kingfishers, woodland kingfishers, trumpeter hornbills, crowned hornbills, redbilled hornbills, African pied wagtails, forktailed drongos, water thick knees, grey louries, Meve’s starlings, redbilled oxpeckers, and blue waxbills.

Activities Chiawa offered an array of exciting activities: catch and release fishing, canoe trips, pontoon boat cruises, safari walks and game viewing drives in the morning, afternoon and evening. Something that we appreciated was that their itineraries were customized to our requests and often combined a number of activities in one day. For example, they offered us an afternoon river cruise. At the end of the cruise they invited us to either be picked up by car and brought back to camp via a night safari drive or enjoy sundowners on an island in the Zambezi River.

On our journey leaving Chiawa, we were given a tour of Conservation Lower Zambezi (CLS). Set up through a collaboration between Grant and the Danish Consulate, it was a nonprofit residential center providing a variety of conservation programs and furthering understanding of the natural environment in Zambia. In addition to wildlife preservation and environmental education, CLS also supported local development projects.

Other Chiawa had a strict policy of no electronic devices in public areas to respect guests wanting “to get away from it all.” The property had recently installed electric silent motors in their pontoons in an effort to minimize environmental impact.

The Camp had a rich legacy of conservation and continued commitment to responsible tourism in the Lower Zambezi region of Zambia. In addition to heroic anti-poaching efforts since its inception in 1989, Grant crafted the first safari guide training manual with a code of conduct for Lower Zambezi guides to promote high quality and responsible guiding. The company developed a government recognized examination and certification program. Chiawa safari guides received annual professional development to ensure high quality guiding. The Cumings family also co-founded Conservation Lower Zambezi, a nonprofit organization with a residential center that provides a myriad of conservation and HIV/AIDS education program to Zambians.

Additional practices aimed at responsible tourism included biodegradable room amenities; hiring local staff; providing school uniforms, sporting goods and school materials for 300 AIDS orphans annually; and donating $25,000 to charities that assisted vulnerable populations, wildlife and habitats.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit June 2013

Reviewers Article by Laura Scheiber

Photos by Matthew James Harris

Service Chiawa’s customized service was excellent. At the Royal Airstrip, the staff offered us refreshments for the journey to camp. On arrival, Maddy Brown, researcher and hostess, handed us a refreshing tea. Daniel Susiku, one of several safari and river guides, asked what kind of activities we wished to partake in during our stay. On the second day, we had asked if one of our meals could be served on the terrace of our tent. The staff served us a delicious three course lunch with tablecloth, homemade fresh bread, and house wine of our choice.

Throughout our stay the serving staff was efficient, polite and cheerful. Management, especially Joshua Chizuwa and Stuart Rhoda, were attentive to our comfort and every need. The safari guides proved to be most knowledgeable about the surrounding area, and no matter how obscure our questions about the animals and birds we encountered, they answered them with ease. We appreciated the good humor and never ending smiles of Wallace Kabompa, one of the guides. In order to keep abreast in the field, the propety provided guides with annual refresher courses through a government certified program that Grant had spearheaded for guides in the Lower Zambezi.

Our room was always in pristine condition on our return from activities and there were also some nice touches that added to the overall pleasantness of our stay. On the day of arrival, our towels were placed on the bed in the shape of elephants. As part of our wake up call at the hour of our choice, the staff left tea and coffee outside our tent prior to breakfast. They placed hot water bottles in our bed on cold nights during the evening room service. If we ever had any questions or requests, the staff responded quickly through the easy to use walkie talkie system in our tent.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression Located on the bank of the Chongwe River, at the point where it meets the Zambezi, the Chongwe River Camp offered a panoramic view of the western boundary of the Lower Zambezi National Park. Nestled in a lush grove of winterthorn acacias, this luxurious camp was designed to blend unobtrusively into its splendid surroundings: the steep Zambezi escarpment to the north and Zimbabwe’s famed Mana Pools immediately across the Zambezi to the south. Pods of hippos filled the Chongwe like so many moving islands. Meanwhile, on the opposite bank, the park was home to a dense population of elephants and buffalos that constantly filed to the water for a drink or a bath, or came across to visit. More than once, my short walk from the common areas to my tent was delayed while an elephant ambled down the path, claiming its incontestable right of way.

The inspired architecture of the common areas ensured that the guests could fully enjoy the exuberant wilderness surrounding them. The lounge area was furnished with curving concrete platforms lined with thick pads and mounds of toss pillows, with every spot offering a different perspective. The lounge and bar were shaded by an oversized canvas roof stretched from sculptural tree trunks. The long family-style dining table, as well as an additional circular seating area, was set in the open air on an outcrop overlooking the confluence of the Chongwe and the Zambezi. The hospitality was as outstanding as the view, with a full coffee and tea service perennially set in the lounge, the bar open, the friendly and attentive staff constantly at hand, and a wealth of safari options available.

While sunset and night drives across the Chongwe River into the park were interesting, my favorite way to explore this bountiful environment was from a canoe. My guide Wedmore Kumbani, a Shona tribesman originally from Zimbabwe, was a quiet young man with a ready smile and an expert oarsman who could unobtrusively approach a fifteen foot Nile crocodile sunning itself on the bank or navigate around a pod of grumpy hippos. He could also spot from a distance the spectacular birds that inhabited the banks of the river, and smoothly glide to them for an undisturbed close up view. I quickly became a canoe safari enthusiast, with a newfound interest in bird photography! With its casual, friendly atmosphere, superb comfort and close proximity to continual game activity, Chongwe was an especially welcoming place where I could have happily settled for an extended stay.

Location The Chongwe River Camp was immediately across the Chongwe River from the western boundaries of the Lower Zambezi National Park in southeastern Zambia, approximately 30 minutes by air from Lusaka.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury safari camp

Communications : Internet wireless connectivity could be arranged between 7am and 8pm, at the mercy of the satellite connection. Cellular telephone service was available with a GSM 900/1800 compatible international cell phone. The camp also had UHF and HF radios for emergency communications with the outside world.

Handicapped Access No wheelchair accommodations were available. By previous arrangement, the camp could accommodate hearing or vision impaired visitors traveling with non-impaired companions.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Owner And Manager Christiaan Liebenberg

Power The camp used paraffin lanterns as well as solar powered ones. Solar electricity was available in the lounge to charge batteries for small electronic equipments. A NW-135C adapter was necessary to use the electrical outlets (the kind used in the U.K.).

Size Chongwe occupied about 10 acres (40,500 square meters) of prime river frontage. It consisted of eight guest chalets capable of accommodating up to 16 guests. In addition to a managerial staff of five, the camp included 40 local employees, including four game viewing guides for driving, walking and canoeing safaris, plus three coxswains and fishing guides.

Transportation From Lusaka, reliable charter airline flights were available daily to the Royal airstrip. It was a 30 minute drive on bush roads from Royal to the camp, which provided transportation to and from the airstrip. Getting around the Lower Zambezi National Park area was either by land cruiser, motorboat, canoe, or on foot.

Year Open-Renovated The camp originally opened in 1999. It was fully refurbished each year and the object of on-going enhancements. At the time of my visit, a new suite, the Albida Suite, including two rooms under separate Bedouin-tented roofs and a private plunge pool, was under construction, and scheduled to open in August 2007.

Lobby And Common Areas Set in a grove of mahogany and winterthorn acacia trees, the common areas included a spacious lounge and bar area under a tented roof. Furniture consisted of free-form curving saffron-colored concrete platforms covered with thick pads upholstered in light green canvas and bright cotton pillows made of local weavings. A collection of books on the local fauna, flora and culture was scattered about the lounge area. A large circular open-air seating area with comfortable wooden armchairs overlooked the river. It served as breakfast spot and was an inviting place to socialize around an open fire at night, or to gaze at the starry African sky.

Bathroom The bathroom was a 250 square foot (23 square meters) open air enclosure in the back of the tent, with high privacy walls of concrete and thatch. Fixtures included a sink made of a slab of polished concrete on a wooden stand with a mirror above, a flush toilet and shower with a stone base built in the far corner of the room. Hot water was available. A wooden shelf tucked under the outer overhang of the tent held ample supplies of bath and face towels and provided storage. Bathroom amenities were some of the most thoughtful that I have seen in camps anywhere.

Room My chalet, Number Six, was a 435 square foot (40 square meters) tent under a thick thatched roof, raised on a brown polished concrete slab. On three sides, multiple windows covered with netting let in cooling breezes and a breathtaking view that reached from the Mana Pools across the Zambezi to the south and to the steep Zambezi escarpment to the north. The front of the tent offered an intimate view of the Chongwe River and the park on the opposite bank. Outside, a thickly padded lounge chair was my favorite spot to read or observe the frequent game activity during the hot hours of the day. The rear of the tent led down two steps to a walled open air bathroom. The tent was invitingly furnished in simple African safari style, with two comfortable double beds covered with white cotton throws, flanked by wooden bedside tables. On the opposite wall, two wooden chests doubled as luggage racks. In the evening lighting was provided by solar powered lanterns.

Food The food was delicious and varied. All meals were served in the open air, on an outcrop between the river and the lounge. Breakfast was buffet style in a circular seating area around a camp fire. Lunch and dinner were served family style at a long, linen clad table.

Amenities In the bathroom, an attractive display in a palm tray included full size tubes of body wash, shampoo, conditioner, body moisturizing cream, insect repellent, as well as moisturizing soap, feminine hygiene sundries and a pocket-size package of tissues. In addition to the bathroom supplies, chalet amenities included daily laundry, thermos of chilled drinking water, a flashlight, mosquito and insect control products. Use of a safe was available in the main office. All meals and beverages were also included, as well as all daily game viewing activities.

Swimming Pool The pool was 16 by 36 feet (five meters by eleven meters), with depth ranging from four to eight feet (one to two meters). It was surrounded by a five foot (one and a half meter) concrete apron that held three lounge chairs with thick padding and a large sun umbrella. Towels were available on demand.

Game Viewing While at Chongwe, I sighted: elephant, hippo, buffalo, genet, bushy-tailed mongoose, civet, chec ma baboon, impala, bushbuck, waterbuck, Nile crocodile. Birds included: Pel’s fishing owl, hammerkop, goliath heron, cattle egret, double-banded sand grouse, African fish eagle, water dikkop, African jacana, African pied wagtail, malachite kingfisher, green-backed heron, reed cormorant, white-crowned lapwing, white-fronted bee-eater, little bee-eater, Egyptian goose, Marshall eagle.

Activities Morning and late afternoon game viewing activities included canoeing, pontoons boat cruises, walks and drives. Fishing for the famed Zambezi tiger fish was also an option. Fishing was on a strict catch and release basis. Game drives were available in the early evening using powerful spotlights to see nocturnal animals. In addition to the rich concentration of game, the banks of the Chongwe were host to a spectacular birdlife.

Other Because of the proximity to wild game, children had to be at least 12 to visit.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit July 2007

ReviewersArticle and photographs by Josette King

Service The unobtrusively attentive and friendly staff provided excellent service. The room was serviced twice a day.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression The Sausage Tree Camp whimsically announced itself as the motorboat taking me down the Zambezi River approached its landing dock. Pristine conical Bedouin tents peering through the extravagant canopy of riverine forest in the Lower Zambezi National Park? Indeed! The camp consisted of seven Bedouin-style circular tents discreetly positioned above the bank of the scenic entrance of the Chifungulu channel. Each tent offered complete privacy, along with a terrific view of the river and an island filled with shivering reeds where big game loved to hide. The camp’s décor was an inspired fusion of styles resulting in minimalist luxury that left the senses free to concentrate on the intense wildlife activity around and within the camp. 

Elephants were everywhere! A large bull, unimpressed by my arrival, kept on browsing by the path between the lounge and my tent. It postponed my moving in just long enough to enjoy a second welcome drink and a bit of socializing with Tash Dower, the companionable camp manager. However, my favorite elephant anecdote occurred the next morning, when a long trunk snaked over the wall of my open air bathroom while I was in the shower. Its owner was casually gathering overhanging foliage for its breakfast.

With such an active wildlife and superb scenery around, it would have been easy to cocoon in the luxurious surroundings of the camp. But the enthusiastic Sausage Tree team lavished such personal attention on their guests that they devised activities to tempt everyone. I could not resist a pontoon boat sundown cruise. I enjoyed sharing the great river only with snorting hippos and the occasional crocodile, while the sun slipped behind the hills, turning the infinite African sky into every color of the rainbow. The next morning, I took a canoe trip down the seven miles (eleven kilometers) of the Chifungulu channel to observe abundant game going about their daily routine of feeding and bathing.  A few feet ahead, elephants crossed from the bank to the island, and hippos made a run for the water, scattering spray everywhere.

As the canoe reached the main river, a motor boat from the Sausage Tree fleet waited to tow the canoe back upriver, and take me to my next treat.  A table was laid out in a shallow, sandy area of the river. As the guests arrived, they disembarked and waded to the table where a sumptuous lunch awaited.  A whole new dimension in alfresco dining! A tranquil enclave of casual luxury in the heart of an exceptionally rich game habitat, enhanced by thoughtful, personalized service, Sausage Tree was an especially enjoyable river camp; one that I would recommend to my friends withouth hesitation.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury bush camp

Communications : Basic Internet connectivity could be arranged to check e-mail in case of emergency, contingent to availability of satellite connections. The camp also had UHF and HF radios for communications with the outside world. Guests could use their personal satellite phones.

Handicapped Access No 

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location Sausage Tree was located on the bank of the Zambezi River, at the entrance of the Chifungulo channel, in the heart of the Lower Zambezi National Park in southeastern Zambia, immediately across from Zimbabwe’s famed Mana Pools. It was approximately 30 minutes by air from Lusaka to either of the two airstrips serving the park: Royal and Jeki. Royal was two hours up river from the Chiawa via motor boat. Jeki was located northeast of the camp, a one-hour drive away through the bush.  

Managers David and Tash Dower

Owner Jason Mott

Power A silent generator produced electricity for night-time tent lighting and to recharge batteries. A NW-135C adapter was necessary to use the electrical outlets (the kind used in the U.K.). 

Size Sausage Tree occupied two acres (8,100 square meters) with a 550 yard (500 meters) river frontage, in the immensity of park. It could accommodate a maximum of 14 guests in its seven circular Bedouin-style tents, and employed a staff of 25 including a game viewing staff of five guides and trackers.

Transportation From Lusaka, reliable charter airline flights were available daily to the Jeki airstrip. The Royal airstrip could also be used. Sausage provided transportation to and from the airstrips to the camp. Getting around the Lower Zambezi National Park area was either by land cruiser, motorboat, canoe, or on foot.

Year Open-Renovated Originally opened in 1990 as a mobile safari camp, Sausage Tree was entirely renovated to its current form in 2000. The camp was open mid-April through October. It was completely refurbished each year prior to reopening.    

Common Areas Open-walled Bedouin tents housed the bar, lounge and dining area. They were clustered at a prime vantage point overlooking the channel and the island. The common areas also included a viewing deck overhanging the river bank. A camp fire was built in a pit in a corner of the deck in the early morning and after dark. It was an ideal place to congregate for breakfast, or to socialize after dinner. The atmosphere was stylishly relaxed, with groupings of overstuffed armchairs upholstered in striped white and taupe canvas clustered around dark wooden coffee tables. The dining area included a long table surrounded with wooden chairs with cushions matching the armchairs in the lounge. A free-form concrete platform with thick padding and piles of toss pillows provided additional sofa seating. The dining area housed a tall book case with a collection of books on the local wildlife, nature and culture, and was also used as a reading room.

Bathroom The 150 square foot (14 square meters) circular open-air bathroom adjoined the sleeping tent. It was made of dark yellow polished concrete. In addition the flush toilet and a vanity with sink and mirror, it featured an oversize shower stall with a large overhead showerhead. Hot water was available around the clock.

Room My tent (Suite Number Three) was a circular 300 square foot (28 square meters) Bedouin tent raised on a three foot high (one meter) polished concrete platform. The entire tent was sheltered under a canopy of tall Natal mahogany trees. The walls consisted of panels of framed bamboo. At the front of the tent, walls were replaced with canvas and screening panels that opened to reveal a scenic view of the river. All the wooden furniture in the room was of dark teak. In addition to a king-size four-poster bed swathed in immaculate mosquito netting, and framed by two bedside tables with reading lamps, furniture included a high bureau, a hanging closet and a credenza. Above the latter, hung a framed  watercolor of a local landscape. A full length cheval mirror, a large brass fan on a stand and two arm chairs with an oval coffee table completed the décor. Chair cushions and accent pillows were dark yellow to match the concrete floor. The whole space exuded an atmosphere of quiet luxury that was further enhanced by a superior quality mattress, a choice of down and non-allergenic pillows and silky, and high-count cotton bed linen.

Food The food was delicious. In addition the early morning room service, continental breakfast was served buffet style on the viewing deck. Lunch was also buffet style, with a generous menu of hot meat and vegetarian dishes, salads, cheese board and freshly baked bread. Dinner was plated and formally served. Chef Honoré Kabongo, a native of the Congo who had also worked in France, was an outstanding baker. His tea-time freshly baked goodies were my downfall.

Amenities Bathroom amenities included sheet-size bath towels, body wash, shampoo, conditioner, body moisturizing cream, a shower cap and a lovely terry-lined luffa sponge that I enjoyed through the remainder of my trip. In addition to the bathroom supplies, Sausage Tree amenities included daily laundry, thermos of chilled drinking water, mosquito and insect control spray and a flashlight. A two-way radio was available in the room to request an escort to the common area when there were animals in close proximity or to call with any other requirements. Use of a safe was available in the main office. All meals and beverages were included, starting with a wake-up tea or coffee room service that was delivered with scrumptious freshly baked cookies. All daily game viewing activities were also included.

Swimming Pool The swimming pool was 28 feet by 17 feet (nine meters by five meters), with depths ranging from four to seven feet (one to two meters). It was set in a large flagstone apron furnished with two padded lounge chairs shaded by white umbrellas, and a long wooden bench . Fresh bath towels were always stacked on a tray nearby.

Game Viewing During my stay at Sausage, I sighted: elephant, hippo, buffalo, genet, bushy-tailed mongoose, chacma baboon, vervet monkey, impala, bushbuck, waterbuck, Nile crocodile, monitor lizard. Birds included: Goliath heron, green-backed heron, cattle egret, great white egret, little egret, water dikkop, pied king fisher, giant king fisher, malachite king fisher, red-eyed dove, tropical booboo, white-crowned plover.

Activities Sausage Tree offered a full range of game-viewing activities, including day and night game drives, walking safaris, boating, fishing for the world- renowned Zambezi tiger fish, and my favorite: canoeing. The lower Zambezi was known for its outstanding canoeing. I trust that Sausage Tree, with its privileged location by the Chigungulu channel and the quality of its canoeing guides, contributed greatly to this reputation.

Others Because of the proximity to wild game, children had to be at least 12 to visit.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit July 2007

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service At Sausage service was excellent, with great attention to details and to the personality of each guest. Each chalet was assigned a muchinga (butler) who was personally responsible for the well-being of “his guests” for the duration of their stay. Shephard Mulangachonzi, a gregarious young man for the Goba tribe, was my muchinga . When a glitch in my onward travel reservations made it necessary for me to depart the camp at 4:30 am, Shephard appeared at my door at 4 a.m. with my “wake up” tea tray, served exactly to my preferences. He reappeared 30 minutes later with the land cruiser driver. He carried a hot water bottle and a warm blanket for my comfort (the nights were chilly in July in the Lower Zambezi bush); and insisted on traveling with us so to ensure that my luggage was transferred smoothly to the boat that would take me upriver to the Royal airstrip.

The true measure of service is how staff respond when, in spite of everyone’s best efforts, something goes awry. Tash, the camp manager, an energetic young woman with an unwavering can-do attitude, showed her mettle on the afternoon prior to my departure. Upon reconfirming my travel arrangements, she discovered that the national airline had arbitrarily cancelled my reservation between Lusaka and the next stop on my itinerary, throwing my entire trip in disarray. Tash spent the next two hours on the shortwave radio before she was able to happily announce she had arranged a whole new itinerary for me with local charter airlines! I arrived in Livingstone, my next destination, without further concerns, two hours ahead of my originally planned arrival time.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Located downstream from Lake Kariba on the northern bank of the Zambezi River, the Lower Zambezi National Park is the most recent of Zambia’s parks. Established in 1983, immediately across the river from Zimbabwe’s world famous Mana Pools, it is still an area of mainly untouched wilderness. The park stretches for 75 miles (120 kilometers) between the Chongwe River to the west almost to the confluence of the Luangwa River to the east, and extends 20 miles (32 kilometers) inland to the Zambezi escarpment. Although the park covers an area of 1,580 square miles (4,092 square kilometers), the spectacular backdrop of the steep escarpment acts as a natural barrier to most species, concentrating most of the game’s activity near the edge of the river.

The park and its surrounding Game Management Area, combined with the Mana Pools across the river, formed an especially rich bio-diverse area of forests and wetlands that supported an abundant wildlife. The valley was home to many mammal species including hippo, elephant, buffalo, zebra, lion, leopard, genet, civet, and a large number of gazelles. It also offered some of the most abundant and colorful birdlife I have come across anywhere (estimated to include close to 400 bird species). The river bank was scalloped with channels that created lush islands along the main river. Canoeing down the quiet, shady channels was an idyllic safari experience, made possible by the excellence of the river guides at the camps I visited. They were experts at unobtrusively stirring canoes very close to lions quenching their thirst and elephants or buffalos wading from one island to the next. They also allowed me to get a close-up view of the rich variety of birds living along the river, from the giant goliath heron to the tiny jewel-like malachite king fisher.

Because of its remote location and limited infrastructure, the Lower Zambezi National Park was not easily accessible. However, its pristine isolation and the outstanding density and variety of game congregating along the river, coupled with the luxury of the camps and lodges that operated near and in the park, made it superb destination.

Climate The climate of the Lower Zambezi is generally cool and dry from April to August, hot and dry from September to December and wet and humid from January to April. I visited in early July, when temperatures ranged from the 80s Fahrenheit during the day to the low 50s at night.

Cost Of Visiting Moderate to high

Currency The currency of Zambia, the kwacha, had an exchange rate of approximately 4000 kwachas for one U.S. dollar at the time of my visit.

Electrical Current 220 Volts/50 Hz. A NW-135C adapter was necessary when using electrical outlets (the kind used in the U.K.).

Health And Vaccinations There were no mandatory inoculations for travel to Zambia at the time of my visit. My local health clinic, following the Center for Disease Control (CDC) guidelines, recommended an up-to-date inoculation schedule for meningitis, hepatitis, rabies, sleeping sickness, tetanus and typhoid fever; as well as visitor precautions for AIDS and preventive medication for malaria. For daily protection from insects, I used a combination of repellant cream with CDC-recommended high DEET concentration on exposed skin, and a DEET-free spray for facial protection. Additionally, as always in tropical climates, high protection sunscreen was a daily necessity.

Location The Lower Zambezi National Park was located in southeastern Zambia on the north bank of the Zambezi River, immediately the across the river from Zimbabwe’s famed Mana Pools National Park, 94 miles (150 kilometers) down River from the Kariba Dam.

Measures Metric system

Money Issues All prices in areas that catered to tourists, including airport taxes and park fees were quoted in U.S. dollars. Because I couldn’t anticipate whether change could be made in U.S. dollars, I brought all the funds for incidentals, tips and souvenirs, in small U.S. denominations (mainly $1, $5 and $10). This ensured that I didn’t accumulate local currency along the way.

Technology The camps I visited offered running hot and cold water, and electricity. They had satellite Internet access, although service was sometimes erratic. Cellular telephone service was available intermittently along the river with a GSM 900/1800 compatible international cell phone.

Time GMT/UTC plus two hours (e.g. Continental European time)

Transportation The only ways to get around in the park were by all-wheel drive vehicles, motor boat, canoe or on foot.

When To Visit Mid-April to mid-November

How To Get There South African Airways (SAA) offered daily flights from Washington and New York to Johannesburg, South Africa. Several European airlines also offered daily flights to Johannesburg from various European gateways. From Johannesburg, SAA and Air Zambia operated daily flights to Lusaka. British Airways had one daily flight between London and Lusaka. From Lusaka, reliable charter flights were available daily to either the Royal or Jeki airstrips. Flight time was approximately 30 minutes. These could be arranged through the camps operating in and around the park, which also provided transportation to and from the airstrips . At the time of my visit, there was an airport departure tax of $8 for domestic flights and $25 for international flights. A tourist visa valid for one entry could be obtained at passport control in Lusaka for $100.

Facilities There were no shopping, dining or healthcare facilities in or near the Park.

Shopping And Souvenirs The lodges and camps had limited souvenir shops, stocked mainly with locally decorated textiles and some woodcarvings.

Tourism Highlights The daily decision during my visit to the Lower Zambezi National Park was how I wanted to view the abundant wildlife surrounding me! Although canoeing was my personal favorite, pontoon cruises on the river were available, as were daytime walks and drives, and early evening drives using powerful spotlights to see nocturnal animals. It was also tempting to simply lounge on the deck of my tent and enjoy the on-going movement of game passing by on its way to the river. Bird watching along the channels was a special treat, as much for the variety of species as for the abundance of birds.

The area was also an anglers’ paradise. The Vundu, a giant catfish weighing up 100 pounds and the famous tiger fish, reputed to be the most challenging fresh-water fish, were in abundance. The camps I visited observed a strict catch and release policy.

Date Of Latest Visit July 2007

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Would You Visit This Destination Again? Yes

Overall ImpressionVictoria Falls is in the northwest corner of Zambia.