Overall Impression One of few lodges in the Livingstone Zambia area with striking views of Victoria Falls, the Stanley Safari Lodge was a tranquil haven of beautifully landscaped gardens and uniquely inspired architecture that blended naturally with its African bush surroundings. Located on a hillside away from the hustle and bustle of Livingstone it was a few minutes drive from Victoria Falls.

The design of the ten room Lodge was charming and unique. Architect and co-owner Vinciane Geelhand who designed the lodge ensured that the layout took full advantage of the incredible hillside views. The primary common area was housed in a massive stone structure with thatched roof and an open back wall, looking out onto an infinity pool that reflected the open blue Zambian sky. The pool had a spectacular backdrop of the African bush along with clouds of spray from the falls. The two story structure had many cozy sitting areas that were thoughtfully decorated with African adornments and furniture that blended well with the building’s stone walls and thatched roof. For reading, I especially liked the area near the stone fireplace that was decorated with antique safari relics. My favorite spot to relax was the meticulously landscaped lawn and garden surrounding the pool with plenty of lounge chairs. It was the perfect spot to take in the stunning Zambian sunsets that lit up the sky with vibrant shades of red, orange and yellow.

For me, the hospitality at Stanley Safari was an ideal balance of attentive yet unobtrusive. I felt well looked after while given the right amount of space to relax, which I appreciated after spending a number of nights in intimate quarters at other safari camps in Zambia. Staff organized meals served at the location and time that I specified, they serviced my room twice a day, and organized a personalized itinerary with two activities for me on the day of my arrival. Anytime I went to the main lodge, my personal guest relations specialist, Gelina Mubebila, asked if I wanted any refreshments.

I simply loved my accommodations. The 600 square-meter Family Suite was housed in a traditional thatched roof structure with stone walls, and an open back wall offering marvelous views of the African bush. It was a wonderful way to feel in touch with nature while enjoying all the comforts of a luxurious room. I will never forget hearing the sound of lions roaring in the distance while admiring the Zambian sunset from the comfort of one of couches built into the stone structure and topped with plush cushions. In the mornings, I awoke to breathtaking sunrises from the comfort of my king-sized bed with views of cloud like spray from the majestic Victoria Falls. My open plan split level room had a plunge pool, plenty of comfortable sitting spaces, an oversized bathtub, desk area and private lawn space. African decorations tastefully adorned the walls, which added to its charm.

Combining the attractive design of the Lodge with its tranquil setting and the attentive yet unobtrusive hospitality, Stanley Safari was the perfect way to end my safari holiday in Zambia.

Children Children of all ages were welcome

Class Of Accommodation Luxury nature lodge

Connectivity Internet service was available in the main area only. Though a slow connection, I consistently was able to access Wi-Fi.

General Manager Clara Ibara was the general manager. During my stay, Wietz du Plessis was the stand-in manager while Clara was temporarily away.

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location Stanley Safari Lodge is three and a half kilometers (two miles) upstream from Victoria Falls and about 20 minutes from downtown Livingstone. There were a number of nonstop daily flights from Lusaka and Johannesburg, South Africa to the Livingstone airport, along with multiple weekly flights from Nairobi, Kenya and Nelspruit, South Africa. The property provided transportation to and from the airport. When I was there the usual 15 minute-ride from Livingstone airport was more like 30 minutes due to construction on the main road. The last leg of the journey was on a dirt road, surrounded by trees and in a quiet and noticeably more secluded setting away from central Livingstone.

Managed In spring of 2013, Robin Pope Safaris took over the management of Stanley Safari Lodge.

Owned Reinout de Gruijter, Vinciane Geelhand and Robin Pope Safaris.

Pets Allowed No

Size Stanley Safari Lodge had ten rooms, four Suites and six Cottages spread out over 11 hectares of land on a hillside in the middle of 100 acres of private land in the African bush. In total, the lodge could accommodate up to 22 guests. Of the 36 employees, the majority were local Zambians.

Year Open-Renovated Stanley Safari Lodge opened in 2002. In addition to continuous renovations and maintenance, a back wall had been added to the previously opened wall of one of the cottages and two of the suites. Three other accommodations also had a canvas wall added to them that could roll down at nighttime. Four of the rooms still had an open back wall facing out onto the African Bush for those wishing to get a bit closer to nature.

Lobby And Common Areas The first thing I noticed when pulling up to Stanley Safari Lodge was the tidy landscaped grounds of flowers, bushes and a dirt path leading to an open circular lobby with thatched roof. A wooden reception desk with African decorations above it had built-in circular stone benches with cushions on either side. Opposite the reception desk there was a small gift shop with locally crafted African wooden carvings, jewelry, and other memorabilia. Travel necessities, such as toothpaste were also for sale.

Behind the lobby, there was a well kept gravel pathway surrounded by beautiful gardens of brightly colored flowers, trees and shrubbery common in the region. The path led to the main common area, a stunning two-story thatch roof structure with stonewalls that was 6,500 square feet in size. It housed the dining room, bar, lounge area with a stone fireplace and a number of pleasing sitting areas thoughtfully decorated and fun to explore. The oxidized concrete floor had an attractive burnt orange finish. A massive open entryway provided beautiful views to the jewel of the lodge, the infinity pool surrounded by gardens and the African bush. The upstairs had a library with a comfortable large bed looking out onto the landscaped grounds, the African bush beyond and the mist of Victoria Falls even farther off in the distance. The décor of the main area was classic safari with original antiques and African artwork throughout. The overall effect was an inviting atmosphere and peaceful surroundings. I found it so appealing that I opted to relax and take advantage of the surroundings of the lodge instead of partaking in the many river activities available to guests.

Bathroom My room had an open layout, so the bathroom was just a few steps down from the sleeping area. The dominant feature was a grandiose oxidized cement and stone bathtub built into the wall. I climbed up the stone step leading to the bath and enjoyed a glorious hot bubble bath before dinner. On either side of the bathtub there was a countertop, made of oxidized cement that matched the floors and stone, with double washbasins. The bathroom also had a separate shower. For privacy, the flush toilet was in a separate room, a short walk down an open hallway behind the main structure of the building.

Room I stayed in the Family Suite, which was a pleasant one-minute walk to the main lodge on a well-groomed gravel path. The open-plan 600 square feet room was housed in a stone and thatch split-level structure with an open back wall that offered lovely views of the African bush and Victoria Falls. Near the entrance two twin-sized stone benches built into the wall were covered with plush cushions and an abundance of throw pillows that could be used as sleeping quarters for kids. Also in the entryway there was a mini-fridge with water and other beverages, a wooden desk and a chair. Two small stone steps led to the main sleeping area where a king sized bed protected by mosquito netting was positioned against a wall. It offered optimal views of the landscape. There was an attractive wooden armoire with shelves and a security box. Waking up in my room to a striking sunrise and the mist from the falls is a memory that will last me a lifetime. Between the bed and the open lawn there was a private stone plunge pool large enough for six guests. Around the pool, there were curved stone-sitting benches with comfortable cushion tops and a bunch of throw pillows.

Food And Restaurants The European cuisine with hints of African influence was consistently tasty and satisfying. For breakfast I chose from a number of options such as eggs and toast, a traditional English breakfast, or French toast. I opted for fruit, yogurt, toast, coffee, and juice. The Zambian coffee was so robust in flavor that half a cup usually did the trick. On my first day, I arrived at the lodge in the late afternoon and enjoyed a traditional Mediterranean style tuna salad with a side of delicious warm sweet corn bread. Light and refreshing, it was the perfect lunch after many heavier meals at other lodges. Dinners at Stanley Safari were yummy and substantial three course meals. While I was there there was spanakopita, vegetable curry with a thick gravy base that had a comfort food touch, tilapia and vegetables, and crème brulee for dessert.

One of the delights of eating at Stanley Safari was choosing a spot to dine. So long as another guest had not already reserved a location, the staff happily set up a table wherever I wished. With so many nooks and crannies offering lovely views of the meticulously landscaped grounds and the African Bush in the background, it was hard to choose. For lunch and dinner I dined in the neatly manicured garden near the swimming pool. I appreciated the thick wool blanket the staff placed on the chair and the personal stove filled with hot coals they set next to my chair to keep me warm on the cool Zambian nights. For breakfast I dined on the upper deck overlooking the pool and garden area.

Amenities When I arrived at Stanley Safari Lodge, I was greeted by my personal guest relations specialist, Gelina Mubebila, who offered me a cool wet washcloth and a glass of refreshing lemonade. Meals and drinks were included in the room rate, along with daily laundry service (limited to ten articles of clothing a day), and transfer to and from the airport. Room amenities included: soap, shower gel, foam bath, and shampoo in large dispensers. There were plenty of plush bath towels of varying sizes, and room and body insect repellant sprays and lotions. Stanley Safari could arrange an outside spa specialist to offer treatments in the comfort of the guest’s room.

Facilities Opposite the reception desk there was a small gift shop with African wooden carvings, jewelry, toiletries and memorabilia.

Pool The pool area was so delightful that, other than the two tours I took, I spent most of my time there. From the 20 by 40 feet infinity pool I could see the African bush and the mist from Victoria Falls in the distance. Surrounding the pool, there were lounge chairs with comfortable canvas padding, perfect for napping in the sun. Anytime I sat in a pool lounge chair, like clockwork a staff member cordially offered me a beverage of my choice. Two large white canvas umbrellas that matched the chairs were available for those desiring shade. While it was too cold to swim, I enjoyed watching birds flutter about in the landscaped surrounding garden area. The pool was also a spectacular location to enjoy a sundowner while watching the Zambian sunset reflected against the water.

Activities The property offered fee based activities and excursions that took advantage of the Zambezi River and Victoria Falls, including: bungee jumping, canoeing, white water rafting, fishing river cruises, and tours of the Falls via walking, helicopter or ultra light flights. During my stay at the lodge I went on two tours. Because I happened to be visiting during the super moon, I went on an evening tour of the falls to get a glance of a moonlit rainbow. Although it was interesting, I much preferred my walking daytime tour of the falls.

Other Stanley Safari Lodge was on the electrical power grid and ran on 220 volts and 50 hertz electricity. In my room, I used a three-prong adapter, compatible with United Kingdom plugs.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit June 2013

Reviewers Article and Photos by Laura Scheiber

Service The service at Stanley Safari was consistently helpful yet understated and personalized. Stanley Safari driver and Victoria Falls guide, Effeso Hammabola, picked me up at the airport. He had a laid back disposition, which I found calming. While we chatted on our way to the Lodge, I asked how to properly pronounce several words in his native Tonga language. He was ever patient with my horrific accent and we shared a lot of laughs during the drive. Effeso was also my guide to Victoria Falls and provided interesting tidbits of information throughout the tours.

When I arrived at the Lodge, I was introduced to Gelina Mubebila, a guest relations specialist who arranged my meals, activities and addressed any questions or needs I had. Unassuming by nature, she was courteous, attentive, and seemed to magically appear whenever I was in the main area to offer me a refreshment or anything else I might need. She also served all of my meals.

Would You Stay There Again?

Overall Impression When I think of my stay at Tongabezi Lodge in Zambia, I can’t help but feel a sense of nostalgia. Tucked away in a lush green setting along the Zambezi River 40 minutes upstream from Victoria Falls, this luxury lodge with eleven rooms included meals, drinks, and an impressive array of activities. With a ratio of three staff members per guest, the personalized care was top notch.

I had my own personal valet, Japhet Nawa, the only one allowed in my room and whose primary responsibility during my stay was taking care of me (and he did an outstanding job). Along with Japhet, I had the opportunity to get to know a number of the staff members during activities, such as river guide, Captain Victor, and safari drive guide, Fabias. Each provided excellent service, always with a smile. I enjoyed fascinating conversations with them about their years growing up in the African bush.

The food was consistently tasty and healthy, made with organic ingredients, and served with thoughtfulness and care. My room was on the edge of the river and shaded by large water berry trees. It was a good spot to relax, especially while soaking up the sun in a lounge chair on my private terrace looking out onto the beautiful Zambezi River and listening to birdsong.

Opportunities for viewing river wildlife were outstanding. Never had I gotten so close to crocodiles as I did during a sunset cruise at the lodge. I felt in good hands with Captain Victor, who in his lifetime had captured over 800 crocodiles and set them free in areas of the river where they were less likely to be hunted. Bird viewing was also fantastic during river outings and the river guides offered informed explanations of the many varieties we saw. I saw vervet monkeys along the groomed pathway on the way to my room. I also saw “Henry the hippo” munching on grass at night. He had been a nightly visitor of Tongabezi for the last several years. I got a kick out of being told to peak out of my room in the late evening hours before stepping outside because hippos sometimes liked to rest on my terrace.

All in all I thoroughly enjoyed my stay at Tongabezi. It offered thoughtfully designed luxury accommodations on the banks of the Zambezi River with outstanding personalized service. The lodge was an ideal haven where I enjoyed adrenaline-pumping activities just as much as quiet moments appreciating the natural surroundings. Should I be in Zambia again, I look forward to returning with my husband for a romantic getaway and pampering.

Children Youngsters aged seven and older were welcome at Tongabezi.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury river lodge with an array of inclusive activities

Connectivity Though slow, I always had Wi-Fi while in the Lookout Building (Wi-Fi was also available in the pool area and by the reception area).

General Manager Rudy Boribon

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location Situated on the bank of the Zambezi River, Tongabezi Lodge was approximately 12 miles (20 kilometers) from Victoria Falls, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and about 27 kilometers from the city of Livingstone.

Owners Benjamin and Vanessa Parker

Size Tongabezi occupied 105,000 square meters (26 acres), of which 300 meters were on the bank of the Zambezi River. The lodge had eleven rooms, five Cottages and six Houses that, in total, could accommodate up to 32 guests. Tongabezi had 60 employees.

Transportation There were a number of nonstop daily flights from Lusaka and Johannesburg, South Africa to the Livingstone airport, along with multiple weekly flights from Nairobi, Kenya and Nelspruit, South Africa. Tongabezi provided transportation to and from the airport, which took a little over 40 minutes. The driver explained that there were slight delays because of construction, and that usually the ride took about half an hour. Though the majority of the ride was on tarmac roads, the last 15 minutes was on a dirt road in the bush.

Year Open-Renovated Tongabezi opened in 1990 with five rooms. Since then, it expanded to include The Honeymoon House, the Tree House, Bird House, Dog House, the Nut House and the Garden House. During my stay they were renovating the Dog House. All of the Cottages were renovated two years prior to my visit. The renovation included an extension of the deck area made of flagstone tile.

Lobby And Common Areas The lobby was in an open circular thatched roof structure. Plush cushions sat on top of stoned seating that aligned the edges of the lobby with throw pillows covered in Africa-style prints. Opposite the reception desk was a small gift shop with African wooden carvings, jewelry, purses, t-shirts and other memorabilia.

Behind the lobby was a well-tended garden with huge ebony trees and other native greenery. A flagstone-tiled walkway with stairs led to the central common room where guests could enjoy wonderful views of the bank of the Zambezi River. There was a two-story wooden Lookout Building with a thatched roof and an open back wall that offered outstanding river views. In the entryway sat a desk and computer where guests could access the Internet. In the adjoining room, there was a wooden dining table covered in a tablecloth and wooden bench-style seating that could accommodate 10 guests. The room was tastefully decorated with wooden lamps, stools, and a decorative table with an attractive mirror above it. On the day I arrived, I enjoyed a delicious three-course private lunch while looking out onto the serene river landscape. Next to the building was a small wooden dock where Tongabezi boat activities began.

A walkway connected the Lookout Building to a deck made of flagstone tile and wooden floors in the central common area. The deck housed a fire pit surrounded by several wooden director’s chairs with canvas seating. It also served as a dining area where I immensely enjoyed sunrise breakfasts along the riverbank. The common area also included a bar, dining and lounge areas, under a tall thatched roof with a triangular-shaped entryway. The lounge had a lovely fireplace, surrounded by earth-tone plush couches and throw pillows.

Bathroom The 15.7 square foot bathroom was in a separate room from the sleeping area and had a thick cloth curtain that served as a door. I found the décor of the bathroom to be charming. It had terracotta floor tiles intermixed with Mediterranean-style blue tiles. A circular stone wall surrounded the shower area. An attractive iron frame outlined the mirror above the ceramic sink, and similar to the bedroom, small iron animal-shaped knick knacks hung on the walls. An oversized sunken bathtub was next to the large window, where I enjoyed watching the African sunset while taking bubble baths. The bathroom had plenty of plush white towels.

Room I stayed in Cottage Five, about 300 meters from the bar and dining area. The 74 square meter circular room had a large thatch roof that covered an outdoor sitting area in the entryway. The room had plenty of natural light thanks to several large windows and double glass wooden doors leading out on to the patio. The windows had off-white curtains that were pulled back during the day. In the middle of the room two twinned-beds were pushed together to make one oversized bed under a mosquito-netted canopy. There was an air conditioner and heater unit above the bed. Room staff turned on an electric blanket for me during the turn down service. Near the door there was a standing fan and a wooden desk with a chair next to it.

There were small metallic decorations of animals and framed photos on the off-white plastered walls. A full-length wall mirror hung next to the bathroom. The white bedding was offset by colorful throw pillows that matched a black and rust-colored bed cover with images of animals. There were wood night stands on either side of the bed. A beige two-seater couch sat at the end of the bed. From it I could see onto the patio and river just beyond. There was a patterned deep red throw rug on top of a beige throw rug covering most of the copper-colored floor. Minor marks on the carpet and couch in front of the bed suggested wear and tear.

Food The food was another highlight of my stay at Tongabezi. It was consistently nutritious and scrumptious, made with organic ingredients, and served with class. I had the chance to meet Chef Zuwi Nawa, a native of the area, who on my first day, introduced himself and asked me to choose from the lunch menu after carefully explaining the different dishes. I appreciated that he knew I was a vegetarian and asked if I was okay eating eggs and cheese. It made me feel as if he really took on board my dietary requests. Breakfast was served from seven until nine, lunch from one to three and dinner from seven thirty until nine.

Something that I liked about dining at Tongabezi was that I could request a specific location for my evening meals. As per my request, on the first night Japhet set up a lovely candlelit dinner with tablecloth on the deck of my room. I enjoyed a tasty pea soup as a starter followed by a vegetarian’s delight of mushrooms, sautéed greens, zucchini and a sweet potato mash. The caramel pudding cake for dessert was delicious. On the second night I enjoyed another candlelit dinner with tablecloth seating on the second floor of the Lookout Building. Dinner started with a roasted tomato and ginger soup (loved those vegetable purees!), followed by fresh tilapia with spinach, asparagus and mashed potatoes, and finished with a scrumptious chocolate cake for dessert. All dinners were served with a bottle of house wine of my choice. I opted for a South African Sauvignon Blanc.

Breakfast was my favorite meal of the day not just because of the outstanding options, but also because it was so pleasant to watch the sunrise over the Zambezi River while sitting in the outdoor dining area. Breakfast started with a visit to a self-serve cart filled with a selection of fresh fruits and juices, cereals, cottage cheese, jams, yogurt and delicious Zambian coffee. Though this in itself would have been enough, after sitting down at my table a timid but friendly waitress handed me a menu that included one mouth-watering choice after another. I opted for the French toast with coconut. It was so good that I ordered it the next day without taking a glance at the menu.

Amenities Room amenities included daily complimentary laundry service, a safe big enough to fit a small laptop computer and SLR camera, room and body insect repellant spray, bathrobes made of Chitenage, soap, shampoo, shower gel, and body cream in large dispensers labeled Tongabezi. Skin brand toiletries were made with organic ingredients. There was bottled water in a mini-fridge in the outdoor seating area of the entryway. Additional drinks could be stocked in the fridge upon request. I especially liked the complimentary bottle of sparkling wine I found in a bucket of ice. It went perfectly with the candlelit bubble bath Japhet had waiting for me on my return from a full day of activities. Meals and drinks were included in the nightly room fees. Guests could request massage treatments in their room for an additional fee.

Gift Shop Opposite the reception desk was a small gift shop with African wooden carvings, jewelry, purses, t-shirts and other memorabilia.

Pool The outdoor pool was set near a rocky ledge next to the main dining and bar area. The pool was 10 meters long by seven meters wide and three meters deep. The deck area was made of earth-tone flagstone tile and a beautiful massive ebony tree shaded the entire pool area. Guests could enjoy river views from the pool. Because of the cooler weather, I did not spend any time there.

Game Viewing Though technically not a game lodge, while at the property I saw hippos, crocodiles, monkeys, and a variety of birds: hammerkops, white-fronted beeaters, cape doves, red cormorants, Egyptian geese, and hadeda ibis. At Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park I saw buffalo, impalas, zebras, pukus, giraffes, monkeys, baboons, vultures and other birds.

Activities Fishing, canoeing, lunch on an island in the Zambezi River, a walking tour of Victoria Falls, game drives in the Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park, sunrise and sunset boat cruises, and a visit to the neighboring school initiated by Tongabezi co-owner, Vanessa Parker were complimentary for lodge guests. Third party activities, such as a gourmet lunch and tour of Livingstone Island, were available for a fee.

While I was having lunch on the day of my arrival in the Lookout Tower, Quentino Mbingi, the activities director, introduced himself and shared a list of activities included in my accommodations rate, as well as others available at additional cost. Quentino explained each of the activities before stepping away to give me time to decide. He popped by after lunch to help me devise an itinerary that would allow me to squeeze in the many activities I wished to experience during my three-day stay. I was impressed at how accommodating and how quickly he put together a splendid activities program that hit all of my requests. He was friendly, professional and efficient. In the end, I chose a sunset boat cruise, a game drive at Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park, lunch on an island in the Zambezi River, a fishing excursion, canoe trip and a visit to the Trust Fund School.

I enjoyed all of the activities, including a surprise visit to Livingstone Island. During the excursion I had the unique opportunity of sitting in a natural bathing pool in the Zambezi River on the edge of the 100-meter drop of Victoria Falls.

Other Although I could come and go as I pleased during the daytime, at nighttime I used a walkie talkie to request an escort from my room since animals were known to walk around the grounds.

Tongabezi was on the electrical power grid and ran on 220 volts electricity. In my room, I used a three-prong adapter, compatible with United Kingdom plugs.

I appreciated Tongabezi’s commitment to the education of local children. Upon entering my room, a welcome card, hand-written in crayon by a child, sat on my bed surrounded in rose petals. I soon learned that it was from one of the children attending Tujatane, the Tongabezi Trust School, a two-minute walk from my room. Vanessa Harper, the wife of Tongabezi owner Ben Harper, created and directed the school for children of staff members and children living in neighboring rural towns. Since its inception in 1996, the school has had bragging rights to outstanding school performance compared to other neighboring schools, thanks to its rigorous curriculum, effective school management, and necessary financial support from Tongabezi guests. I toured the school on my last day and heard numerous success stories about alumni. To name a few, one of the students from the original pre-k class had just finished his third year of medical school in the United States. Another had just gotten his commercial pilot’s license. What impressed me about the school was its comprehensive approach to addressing the developmental needs of students. In addition to formal schooling, Tujatane also ensured that the students’ medical needs and overall health issues were addressed. At the time of my visit, the school had over 200 students and had classes up to ninth grade.

Throughout my stay, staff members described a number of ways in which the Tongabezi owners invested in their employees, as well as efforts to support the local community. For example, Fabias told me that the owners had built of number of housing units within walking distance of Tongabezi for staff members who lived too far away to commute on a daily basis. Living in the mini-village meant staff members could be with their families during the workweek. The property also provided transportation for employees commuting to and from Livingstone. Quentino appreciated the additional training the property provided its employees. He started out as a mechanic, for example, and worked his way up to becoming a certified river guide thanks to Tongabezi’s support. Guides, waiters and housekeeping staff, I was told, were given an opportunity to engage in interactive online training. The chef received ongoing training every three years either from a visiting chef or by traveling overseas for a month at the company’s expense.

Tongabezi received the 2012 Travel + Leisure Global Vision Award for community building. The lodge had 2012 and 2013 Trip Advisor Certificates of Excellence.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit June 2013

Reviewers Article and Photos by Laura Scheiber

Service One of the most outstanding aspects of Tongabezi was the service. I could not have asked for a better personal valet. Japhet was consistently attentive while not being invasive. He always seemed to be two steps ahead of me in terms of planning out my days and ensuring I had everything I needed. Before I set off on a full day of activities, he asked what time and where I wished to have dinner. My room was serviced at least twice a day, and every time I came back it had been tidied up.

I had the opportunity to chat in depth with a number of staff members during activities, and found them to be consistently friendly, attentive and helpful. While trying to decide between a fishing trip or sunset cruise on my way back from Livingstone Island, Fabias phoned Tongabezi to find out which activities had available slots. When I got a late start to my private canoe trip Captain Victor and Quentino adjusted to my schedule without a bat of an eye. During all of the activities, the staff offered me refreshments and they often checked in with me to ensure I was having a good time.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression When we visited Chinzombo it had just reopened in June 2013, after many years of closure, as a luxury bush camp with six riverfront tents. Meals, beverages and safari activities were included in the daily fees. Geared toward those just dipping their toes into the world of safari and not quite ready to commit to a more remote bush camp experience, the luxury camp offered many of the perks of exclusive accommodations alongside optimal game viewing next to the Luangwa River in Zambia.

We arrived at Chinzombo by traversing the Luangwa River in a small boat, watched by some disconcertingly large crocodiles sunbathing on the river bank. As we crossed the water, we had our first view of the camp’s attractive main bar and dining area, and six luxury villas spread apart in a grove of trees on a bluff above the river. The architecture had a modern feel, with gray and cream steel frames, wooden decks and open fronts facing the river. The decor paid homage to local safari history with authentic luggage trunks, field chairs, brass and leather fittings and in the bar area some paraphernalia belonging to the late Norman Carr. The main area was open, airy and comfortable against the backdrop of beautiful natural surroundings.

The river was a wonderful feature during our stay. Our open-fronted tent allowed us to view, from the comfort of our bed, the first morning sunlight hit the opposite riverbank. We enjoyed watching hippos, impalas and other animals come down to the water’s edge for their first drink of the day. We also spent a lot of time observing hippos from the circular comfortable couch in the common bar and dining area, which had a magnificent view perched above the river. We found hippos hilarious as they jostled and grunted at each other like grumpy old men.

The food at the camp was consistently fresh, delicious and prepared well, from breakfast eggs cooked over an open fire pit to tasty a la carte dinners served with South African wines in the evening. Most of the fruits and vegetables came from a community garden, which helped support the local economy, or from the garden of the of Norman Carr Safaris Kapani Lodge.

Our camp hosts Findlay and Wendy Hunter were exceptional. They were open and friendly with a knack for conversation, which helped guests quickly shift from strangers to friends. We appreciated their efforts, especially since all guests sat at the same table during evening meals. They were so personable that at times it felt as if they were hosting a really fun house-warming party. At the same time they were professional and accommodating, ensuring that all of our needs were met.

Overall, Chinzombo felt more like a modern high-end premier service boutique tent hotel, than a traditional safari camp. This doesn’t mean that it was missing great game viewing and quality safari guides, or that it detracted from the fact we were in the African Bush. Watching hippos walk through the camp and hearing elephants make trumpet-like sounds close to our tent were vivid reminders that we were in the Zambian bush. We liked the camp’s modern design. Creature comforts such as a lovely selection of South African wines, brand new accommodations with state of the art cooling systems, a private deck with plunge pool, and oversized bath tub where we enjoyed hot bubble baths while looking onto the Luangwa River made us feel pampered. Adding to its charm was the rich history of Norman Carr’s legacy of wildlife conservation, which was integrated into the Chinzombo tented camp experience. We would certainly return and highly recommend Chinzombo to our friends and family seeking a contemporary safari experience.

Children Yes. For guests with children too young to go on safari walks in the national park, Chinzombo offered safari walks, with a guide and scout, on their private land just behind the tents.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury oriented tented camp

Connectivity The prepaid Wi-Fi in our room ran out once during our stay. It was reinstated immediately. There were plans to upgrade to a non-prepaid service. The common dining and bar area also had hi-speed Wi-Fi.

General Managers Findlay and Wendy Hunter.

Handicapped Access There were ramps leading to the front door of every tent as well as in the camp common areas. Showers and toilets were big enough for wheelchairs.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location The camp was located on the bank of the Luangwa River, on private land opposite the South Luangwa National Park, Zambia. We arrived on the national park side of the river at the end of a game drive from a previous lodge and were ferried across. Travelers arriving directly to the camp from Lusaka would have to take an hour flight to Mfuwe Airport.

Managed The managing director of Norman Carr Safaris was Dave Wilson.

Owned Norman Carr Safaris, co-owned by Thierry Dalais (main investor) and Adrian Carr (the son of Norman Carr).

Pets No pets were allowed

Size The camp was on a 60-acre private reserve with Luangwa River frontage. There were six tents that could accommodate two people each, and one family tent that could house up to five people. There were 17 employees at the camp.

Year Opened And Date Of Most Recent Renovation Opened in June 2013

Lobby And Common Areas An open bar and dining area, 10 by 25 meters large, looked out over the Luangwa River. The décor was contemporary safari camp style featuring local natural materials such as copper, and leather fittings. Next to the bar, there was a display of Norman Carr books, large photographs and trunks from the original bush safari camps, adding a historic flair to the camp. A dominant feature of the dining area was the observation deck, which extended out towards the edge of the river. It had a plush circular couch and fire pit. The floors in the main area and the tents looked like contemporary grey-toned wooden floors, but were made of Composite, an ecofriendly material made of recycled plastic and wood. The infrastructure of the camp was built with sustainably sourced or recycled materials. We liked the ambiance of the common areas and appreciated them as a space to relax and enjoy the natural environment.

There were some minor details that needed to be worked out since the camp had just opened two weeks prior to our arrival. An example was that the public bathroom was not yet open in the common area. However, based on the quality service and dedication of the staff we’re confident that such little kinks will be worked out in no time at all.

Bathroom Our tent had an open floor plan. The bathroom was towards the end of the rectangular space rather than in a dedicated room. The area, about five square meters large , consisted of a stand-alone shower, water closet, free standing slipper bathtub and double-basin sink section with large mirrors. The oversized bathtub was notable, as it was situated in the middle of the bathroom area and offered fantastic views out onto the Luangwa River. Upon request the staff would run a bath for us. They timed it so that by the time we got back to our tent after finishing sundowners in the bar, the bath water was hot and full of bubbles. We consistently had hot water for showers and baths throughout our stay. The toilet area was discretely curtained off at the very end of the space, though being fabric it wasn’t as private as a walled in toilet room.

Room We stayed in the southernmost tent, Number One, about a two minute walk from the dining and bar area. The tent was about 10 meters from the next unit, situated roughly 10 meters from a five meter-high embankment looking over the river. We were free to walk back and forth along the landscaped gravel path from our tent to the main area during the day, but were escorted at night. Our tent had a deck with couches and four loungers, as well as a private plunge pool. As with the dining area, the décor was contemporary safari. The interior space was about 14 meters by 11 meters. The room had tent like canvas walls over a steel frame, as well as walls made of dried grass.

The color scheme and fittings were light grey, brown, white and copper, all reminiscent of a safari camp with modern touches. Our space was comfortable and relaxing thanks to soothing colors and a thoughtfully designed interior. For lighting, there was a low energy desk lamp, bed lamps, and four main lights, one of which was encased in a beautiful copper lamp shade. The front of the tent was open (though we kept the mosquito net in place). The bed itself was what management referred to as a two and three quarter size, with Egyptian cotton sheets, a bed cover made of raw linen, and synthetic down pillows. We liked the two hot water bottles the staff placed in our bed during turn down service each night. It was a welcome amenity given the chilly African winter nights.

The room included a modern, quiet and energy efficient Evening Breeze cooling system mounted above the bed which lowered the temperature by five to seven degrees without requiring full air conditioning. If greater cooling was required, standard air conditioning could be used also. We never used the cooling system since we visited during Zambia’s winter. In addition to the bed, there was a mini-fridge, wooden desk and chair, a shelving and storage unit with plenty of space for clothes and toiletries, an upholstered plush chair, and a round cushioned bench.

Meals The food was delicious, and it seemed at times we were being continuously fed. Breakfasts were served on the common area deck overlooking the river. Toast and our style of eggs were cooked over an open fire. There was a good selection of cereals, spreads, fruit and yoghurt. There was also a wide variety of coffees available, which guests could also make for themselves if they desired, using a Nespresso machine.

Lunches were fresh and tasty buffets, with a selection of meats, salads (such as lentil, rainbow, cabbage, mango), homemade bread and a variety of oils, dressings and chutneys. Just before leaving for afternoon safari drives, we were served tea and cakes. Dinner was a la carte, typically a choice of three dishes each night (one of which was vegetarian), plus several dessert options. Dishes served while we were there included risotto or chicken liver pate starters, chicken curry, and tilapia in banana leaf with chopped tomatoes in sweet sauce. For dessert there were a number of options such as chocolate or cheese cake and whipped cream. The complimentary house wines were South African and went well with the meals. The staff offered us snacks and beverages during the safari drives. Although the staff invited us to dine on the deck of our tent, we chose to join the other guests in the dining area.

Meals were prepared fresh each day by Jason Njobvu, the head chef, and his team. He had trained with Norman Carr Safaris and received annual training opportunities. We enjoyed the diversity of dishes.

Amenities All food, bar drinks, house wines, game viewing activities and transportation to and from Mfuwe Airport were included in the nightly accommodation fees. In room amenities included complimentary whiskey, raw linen bathrobes, slippers, mosquito spray, blow dryer, and electronic safe. The mini-fridge had complimentary bottled water, soft drinks and beer. Chinzombo offered complimentary daily laundry service. A form had to be filled out for specific laundering needs. The 700 milliliter bottles of shampoo and shower gel were made by Whimsical in Lusaka.

Facilities The bar common area had a small collection of books, mostly safari titles, available to guests. In the future, the camp planned to add exercise and yoga areas.

Pool Our tent had a plunge pool that was 6 by 3 meters wide.

Activities Chinzombo offered a number of activities, including day and night game drives and walking safaris in the South Luangwa National Park, cultural and local village tours, tours to a local community garden, and a visit to Tribal Textiles, an outdoor market where textiles and products by local artists were sold.

We went on morning and night game drives aboard a new open Land Rover as well as a morning walking tour. There were two full-time safari guides at the camp, Shaddy Nkoma and Abraham Banda. Both had years of guiding experience including many years of working with the famed Norman Carr. Shaddy was our personal guide for gaming activities during our stay.

Upon our request, we visited the Kapani School Project, a local school that Norm Carr Safari had been supporting since the 1980s. Relying on funds raised from guests, they had sponsored the education of hundreds of children. We enjoyed our brief visit, especially talking to one of the teachers who explained how the school had expanded over the years thanks to the donations brought by the company. We also visited an innovative community garden aimed at deterring poaching by generating income for local residents. The garden gave away free fruit and vegetable seedlings to local farmers. After learning how to harvest them, the farmers would sell their produce to local safari lodges, including Norman Carr Safaris. We were impressed to hear that the project provided sufficient income for 300 farmers.

Game viewing: We were the only guests on our safari excursions, accompanied by Shaddy and Luis, an armed scout. Shaddy answered any questions we had during the drives while Luis kept a lookout for animals. They both had exceptional eyesight, spotting animals at incredible distances. Shaddy’s easy going personality made him approachable and the safari outings enjoyable. We perceived a sense of family among the staff. The owners referred to Shaddy as “Uncle Shaddy” and such a familiarity set a nice tone for our safari excursions.

My favorite walking safari while in Zambia was during my stay at Chinzombo. Shaddy, Luis and I entered the South Luangwa National Park around 8 a.m. With a water bottle in hand Shaddy clearly explained safety rules during our walk. We came across zebras, giraffes, impalas and elephants within an hour of the walk. Seeing those animals on foot was such a different experience compared to the safari drive from the previous day. It left me with a much better appreciation of the landscape and wildlife than I had before the walk. When we returned to the car, Shaddy, offered us hot tea, coffee and mid-morning cakes.

Though we saw a lot of game, we didn’t see the larger predators such as leopards and lions. On one of the days, Shaddy had spotted a leopard with an impala in its mouth while driving alone back to camp. He rushed to pick us up so we could see the leopard. Even though she was gone by the time we drove back, we appreciated Shaddy’s efforts. We were told that viewing is a lot better during the dry season, when animals are forced to stay close to the river and can be watched from the camp. At the end of the night drive, we pulled up to a scenic spot near the river where the staff served sundowners including alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages and some savory snacks. It was an enjoyable way to watch the sun set.

During our safari outings we saw: African elephant, African buffalo, greater kudu, common waterbuck, impala, puku, bushbuck, hippopotamus, spotted hyena, large spotted genet, crawshay’s zebra, thornicroft’s giraffe, four-toed elephant shrew, tree squirrel, slender mongoose, warthog, yellow baboon, and vervet monkey.

In terms of birds, we saw: bateleur, African fish eagle, martial eagle, hooded vulture, lappet-faced vulture, white-backed vulture, cattle egret, Egyptian goose, spur-winged goose, hamerkop, black-headed heron, grey heron, African sacred ibis, hadeda ibis, openbill, African spoonbill, marabou stork, saddle-billed stork, wooly-necked stork, yellow-billed stork, African Jacana, white-crowned lapwing, helmeted guineafowl, red-necked spurfowl, Swainson’s spurfowl, little bee-eater, white-fronted bee-eater, lilac-breasted roller, African grey hornbill, red-billed hornbill, cape turtle dove, emerald-spotted wood dove, laughing dove, red-eyed dove, grey go-away bird, square-tailed night jar, African palm swift, tropical boubou, red-billed oxpecker, yellow-billed oxpecker, greater blue-eared starling, Meve’s starling, arrow-marked babbler, redbilled firefinch, blue waxbill, white-browed sparrow-weaver and red-billed buffalo weaver.

Other The camp had 220 volt electricity, as well as a back-up generator system. They had to use the generator once during our stay. It was a quiet and seamless transition. As guests, it did not affect us at all. The tents had diverse electrical outlets that could accommodate British three prong plugs or American two-prong plugs.

The water was filtered and we were able to brush our teeth using sink water. They offered us bottled water as well mainly because if we poured water in a bottle, the minerals in the water turned it a slightly pink hue.

Since its inception, Norman Carr Safaris strived to be at the forefront of safari innovation. In their early years, they were among the first in the Luangwa Valley to offer safari camps, walking safaris, and to integrate community-based projects into their operation. In more recent times, they were the first to include a Zambian female guide. Fast forward to Chinzombo, which was constructed in such a way to minimize its green footprint. The infrastructure was built with recycled materials. The rooftop of the bar and dining area was built so that it would collect rainwater, and the insulation panels were designed to reduce the need for cooling and heating systems.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Visit June 2013

Reviewers Article by Laura Scheiber

Photos by Matthew James Harris

Service The service was excellent. Our hosts, Wendy and Findlay, were young, energetic and engaging, always striving to ensure everything was to our liking. They responded immediately if there were any issues. Waiters were attentive and cleaning staff were fast, efficient and thorough. Our tent was pristine every time we returned to it. The porters who walked us from the bar and dining area to our tent each night took their job of protecting us from hippos and elephants seriously. They also had had years of experience working in more remote bush camps, which made us feel safe since they knew the bush well. There was a night guard, who stood about 30 feet from our tent throughout the evening. Staff received formal training on an annual basis through certified short courses, as well as refresher courses for chefs, waiters, housekeepers, guides, and trainee guides.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression My husband and I were delighted with our stay at the Luangwa Safari House, a private four-bedroom bush-style home with dedicated staff near one of Zambia’s best known national parks. Situated in the bush on private land the property had an estimated value of nearly one million dollars. The house was a 15-minute drive to the main entrance of the South Luangwa National Park and a five-minute drive to an alternative entrance via a pontoon crossing. The close proximity to the South Luangwa National Park facilitated safari activities within it. Staying at the House provided us plenty of opportunities to see hundreds of animals, in the national park and from the comfort of the House. Our head safari guide Jacob Shawa shared his wealth of knowledge, clear explanations of the animals we encountered, and a genuine enthusiasm for the bush. He went above and beyond the call of duty to heighten our chances of seeing animals during our bush excursions, making him our favorite guide during our 12-day stay in Zambia.

Covering a generous floor space of 300 square meters and 12 meters in height, the design of the two-story house complemented its natural setting in a unique and luxurious way. Tastefully built with local materials, the house featured whitewashed walls, a massive thatched roof with rounded corners, and leadwood trees that served as the main frame. My favorite feature of the house was its open back wall that offered outstanding unobstructed views from all the rooms. The common areas were open and comfortable with plenty of places to relax and enjoy the natural surroundings.

Because the house was strategically built next to a large watering hole, we enjoyed many game viewing opportunities from the comfort of its rooms. The theater of nature enthralled us as herds of elephants, giraffes, baboons and impalas often passed by the property. On the day of our arrival, an elephant walked right up to the open front door, curiously studying the strange creatures (us) on the other side. At nighttime, we heard elephants munching on tree branches not 15 feet from our bedroom, while birds awoke us with song at sunrise. It gave us the sense of being immersed in the natural cycles of the bush (though admittedly with more cakes and sundowners). The outstanding service complemented the quiet setting and made our visit extra special.

A staff of eight was dedicated to looking after my husband and me, and they did so with care and attention. At any given hour, someone was attending to us. Sometimes it was Christobel Phiri, the house hostess, asking if our room was to our liking and when we wanted our next meal, or Jacob inquiring about our preferences for the following day. Their decisions were based on our needs and interests, including how long the safari walks and drives lasted. We were almost never alone and the staff was a class act of impeccable manners, big smiles and easygoing conversations. We appreciated that the entire staff was Zambian and seemed to genuinely enjoy their work.

We were sad to leave the Luangwa Safari House but grateful for so many memories to last a lifetime. With such unique architecture and accommodations, creature comforts, game viewing and outstanding service, the Luangwa Safari House was everything we envisioned a luxury safari experience to be and more. We thoroughly enjoyed the exclusive use of the spacious house, the meticulous service of the staff assigned solely to us, and numerous opportunities to view four of the Big Five game animals (minus the rhinoceros).

Children Anyone over seven years of age was welcome.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury private safari house

Connectivity Upon request, Internet access was available at the Robin Pope main office about a kilometer away from the House.

Handicapped Access Guests in wheelchairs could stay in one of the two bedrooms on the lower floor, and any additional requirements could be addressed as best as possible on an as-needs basis.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location The Luangwa Safari House was just outside the South Luangwa National Park. The main entrance of the park could be reached by car in 15 minutes, or a five-minute drive to an alternative entrance via a pontoon crossing. The house was about 40 minutes from the Mfuwe Airport.

Manager Jacob Shawa

Owned And Managed Robin Pope Safaris

Pets Allowed No

Size The House spanned 300 square meters and was on 300 hectares of private land. With four private bedrooms and bathrooms, it could accommodate up to eight guests. There were eight staff members working at the property during our stay.

Transportation Daily flights were available from Lusaka. Our flight was approximately one hour, while flights from Lilongwe, Malawi were about one hour. Robin Pope Safaris provided direct transportation to and from the airport. We were picked up in a covered Toyota Land Cruiser and drove about 30 minutes on a tarmac road, followed by 15 minutes on a dirt road. En route to the House we saw baboons, elephants and impalas.

Year Open-Renovated The House opened in 2005 and is renovated for maintenance on an annual basis. The last major renovation was in March of 2013, when they redid the kitchen and replaced all of the floors.

Common Areas My husband and I found the Luangwa Safari House, designed by Neil Rocher, a world-renowned architect who specializes in eco-friendly high-end safari and beach accommodations, to be the epitome of a luxury safari house. The infrastructure was built with natural resources from the surrounding area including 25 vertical supports made of leadwood trees, (none of which was cut down, they had already died from natural causes), a thatched roof and an impressive red mahogany front door towering three meters. The entrance was one of many details that made the house a unique and elegant haven in the African bush.

The common area, an open-spaced structure with a thatched high ceiling and white-washed walls, included a kitchen, bar, dining area and living room. A long marble dining table for eight people was in the entryway. A sizable iron chandelier hung above the dining table. Just behind it were three plush couches positioned in a u-shape and facing the back end of the House. The house was decorated in neutral colors that complimented the wooden door frames, house beams and coffee tables. The overall effect was classic safari elegance. On either side of the massive front door were two wooden staircases leading to bedrooms. A well-stocked bar was in the kitchen immediately to the side of the entryway. Plenty of books on the wooden coffee table and bookshelves were available.

The most striking aspect of the common areas was the open back end, which offered outstanding views of the expansive watering hole visited by elephants, baboons, giraffes, impalas and other animals. At nighttime, the staff closed up the house to keep animals out by covering the open space with a drop-down canvas wall. Just beyond the sitting area was a round plunge pool that could accommodate eight guests with ease. A long wooden deck roughly 20 feet long jutted out towards the watering hole. Near the edge farthest from the house sat a weathered leather plush couch, a perfect spot to watch animals amble on by and appreciate the quiet of the surrounding area.

Bathroom Our 15-square meter bathroom was separated from the sleeping area by a wood door. There were two sinks, a large mirror and a glass-less window covered with mesh. The salient feature of the bathroom was the shower set-up. Instead of a separate designated area, there were two showerheads opposite one another. When they were in use the entire bathroom transformed into a single spacious shower. In the middle of the shower area there was a leadwood tree stump that served as a table and held soap, shampoos and shower gel. We had hot and cold water throughout our entire stay, though one of the showerheads was more consistent with the hot water than the other.

The bathroom’s brown and neutral colors aligned with the house’s natural setting. The large mirror that hung above the double sinks was big enough to span the entire marble countertop. Like the rest of the house, the floor was made of cemcrete, a cement-based material with oxides that gave the earth tone floor a polished finish. The bathroom’s minimal furnishings meant there was plenty of room to move around and added to its bush charm.

Room Picking a bedroom was no small feat, as each room was wonderful in its own unique way. The Copper Room was inviting because of the oversized copper bathtub. The Glass Room had two beds and was decorated in shades of blue, which created a soothing ambience. Being on the second floor with a suspended wooden veranda that looked out onto the seasonal watering hole, this room had a fantastic vantage point in terms of game viewing. The Metal Room offered peripheral views that were not as accessible in the main area.

In the end we chose the 50-square meter Sand Room on the first floor. We couldn’t resist the king-sized bed that sat in the middle of the room and faced the natural scenery behind the house. Like the other rooms, the entire back wall was open during the day, and thanks to the circular shape of the room, the open area offered fabulous landscape views from numerous angles. Shortly after unpacking, we watched baboons on the grassy lawn immediately outside our bedroom.

The décor was simple yet tasteful, with off-white walls, wooden accents and a beige bed cover with a rectangular pattern that complimented the style of the room. The bed was most comfortable, so much so that we often fell into a deep sleep within minutes of lying down at night. An off-white upholstered chair was in the corner and faced out onto the landscape. Just outside of the bedroom were two wooden director-style chairs with cloth seating, ideal for relaxing while enjoying the scenery. I liked that the room had minimal furniture because it complemented the natural surroundings.

A wooden ceiling fan was directly above the bed, along with a standing fan in the corner. Our bed was fully covered with a mosquito net and had Egyptian cotton linens. There was a small wooden ottoman at the foot of the bed. The wall was aligned with a handful of wooden shelves to store personal items. An attractive brightly colored painting took up a good portion of the wall closest to the bathroom. While the staff welcomed us to try out other rooms, we opted to stay put.

Meals The food, geared toward a western palate, was consistently plentiful and tasty. Dishes were made from scratch and on site in the chef’s kitchen next to the House. The House had a dedicated Zambian chef who had learned to cook on the job with various chefs. He participated in annual in-house chef training programs, including some conducted occasionally by consultants for specific courses.

Each morning a large pot of yummy porridge awaited us, along with fresh fruit, juice, coffee, tea, and a variety of jams, peanut butter, honey, and marmite to spread on freshly baked warm bread. During the late morning, we had freshly baked mini-cakes, tea and coffee on safari drives and walks. This was the only safari lodge we stayed at that included a tea bearer on the safari walk so we could enjoy morning teas and cakes while on the walk.

On the day of our arrival, we had an unforgettable lunch served on a dock that jutted out towards the watering hole. A massive ebony tree shaded our dining table. A delicious buffet of quiche, chicken, pasta with pesto, salad and warm fresh bread awaited us. Emanuel Mumba, our waiter, and Edward Karia, our room attendant, served us with smiles and attentive care. While the food was delicious, what made this lunch unforgettable was the wildlife that surrounded us. Baboons jumped from branch to branch in the tree above us. A family of elephants meandered not 20 feet from the deck and splashed around in a small pond. A giraffe eyed us carefully as he walked past.

Prior to dinner, we were served appetizers such as mini-corn cakes with chutney and potato flat mini-pancakes with mascarpone cheese and chives. For dinner, we enjoyed a candlelit three-course meal with a choice of South African Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, or mixed drinks from the bar. Coffee or tea were available during dessert.

Amenities Game viewing activities, local village tours, and meals and beverages were included in the nightly rate. Creature comforts we appreciated included a well-stocked bar, refreshing washcloths handed to us by the staff anytime we returned from an activity, blankets to keep us warm during drives, delicious appetizers and sundowners, and a head guide and tracker or spotter on every game drive and walk.

In the bathroom, there were 700 milliliter bottles of insect repellent lotion, shower gel and shampoo. The brand of toiletries was Skin. They were produced in a farm outside of Lusaka. There were two bathrobes made of a cotton and calico blend, two large bath towels, and two wash cloths. Additional amenities included: complimentary daily laundry service, flashlight, and game-viewing booklet to mark the animals we saw during bush activities (not all of the safari houses we visited in Zambia offered these booklets).

The full-size refrigerator in the kitchen had two types of South African white wines, champagne, water, juice, and a variety of domestic and international beers. The bar was stocked with spirits, South African red wine and a variety of teas. We could help ourselves anytime to the goodies. On game drives there was a mini bean-bag that served as an effective impromptu camera tripod. We were served tea, coffee and cakes for a mid-morning snack and sundowners on evening drives. On our departure we received a complimentary Robin Pope Safaris branded water canteen as a souvenir.

Pool A circular plunge pool three meters wide and one and a half meters deep was just outside the living room area overlooking the watering hole. There were a number of wooden chairs with cotton cushions surrounding the tiled pool deck, as well as two oversized pillows.

Activities It was possible to go on day and night game drives and walking safaris in the South Luangwa National Park or on the private land where the house was situated. We also had the option of meals served in the bush within the land adjacent to the house. Activities were customized to our interests and requests. We were also welcome to visit the local market, partake in cultural and village tours in neighboring rural areas, and visit Tribal Textiles, a company of local artists selling hand-painted textiles.

We took advantage of the day and night game drives in the national park, as well as a walking safari (see below). We also visited a local village school following which we were treated to a typical Zambian meal of chicken, boiled pumpkin leaves and n’shima, a maize-based staple of the Zambian diet. The visit ended with a festive performance of live music and a series of traditional dances by some of the villagers.

For safari drives, we were transported in a Toyota open Land Cruiser. Even if the Luangwa Safari House were at full capacity, the game drive policy was no more than four guests per car. The car easily handled all sorts of terrain, including, dirt roads, sandy riverbeds and pontoon river crossings. It was comfortable enough for my husband, who at 6 feet tall, had plenty of space between his knees and the seat in front of him.

Game viewing: Jacob was a native of Zambia and had worked as a guide for over fifteen years. Each year Robin Pope Safaris provided in-house refresher guide courses for him. During the day game drive and safari walk, we were also accompanied by Kefis, a scouter with five years of experience. Each day was a new adventure. Our longest and most memorable drive was a 12-hour journey that started with a 5:30 a.m. wakeup call affectionately known as a “knock-knock.” We left the House at 6 a.m. and returned at 6 p.m. Because the morning temperatures were chilly we wrapped ourselves up in blankets that were folded neatly on our seats.

On the day of our arrival, we went on an evening game drive in the South Luangwa National Park for an hour and half. Jacob and John, our spotter, sat in the front of the open land cruiser utilized exclusively for House guests. On full alert for nocturnal animals, Jacob noticed, within minutes of entering the national park, a herd of impalas tensely staring in the same direction. He took this as a sign that a predator was nearby. Sure enough, after driving in the direction that the impalas had stared, we spotted a female leopard about fifteen feet from the car leisurely guarding her territory. Throughout the drive, Jacob jovially chatted with us and offered interesting tidbits of information about our surroundings.

Jacob stole the show in terms of outstanding service thanks to his authentic enthusiasm, vast knowledge about the bush, and easy-to-understand explanations of the animals we encountered. He also had some unexpected tricks up his sleeve such as expertise in photography after years of guiding guests who were professional photographers. Much to our liking, he provided excellent photography advice specific to the context of the national park and didn’t think twice about stopping the car during game drives when he noticed a particularly good shot with ideal lighting. Concerned about maximizing our time during our four-day stay, Jacob took us on a 12-hour day drive through the national park to “cover as much country as possible.” Typical drives were four to six hours. We were rewarded with wonderful views of the park’s diverse landscape and saw hundreds of animals. Two particularly memorable moments were observing lions mating about 15 feet away from our land cruiser and a leopard enjoying its impala kill in a tree. Jacob always carefully positioned the car to give us the best view possible without disturbing the animals.

Because it was a private safari tour we stopped anytime we saw something of interest. What was so impressive about the landscape was how much it changed from one area of the park to another. One moment we were watching hippos lounging in lush green pools surrounded by trees and the next moment we were observing elephants and zebras feeding from trees in dried grassy terrain. We needn’t be concerned about going hungry, as Jacob had packed plenty of food and drink for us. We took a mid-morning hot beverage and mini cakes break along a riverbed. For lunch, Jacob arranged a picnic buffet of tasty chicken, fish, pasta and cheese and tomato sandwiches. Jacob had made the excellent suggestion of bringing lunch with us so we could maximize our time in the national park. After eating to our hearts’ content, Jacob laid down a blanket with two massive pillows under a tree so my husband and I could take an hour nap.

The highlights of the drive, not surprisingly, were the animals. While we saw hundreds, an unforgettable highlight was coming across two sleeping lions that, as Jacob predicted, started mating 15 minutes after we found them. Another special sight was a leopard in a tree eating its impala kill. To top off an already wonderful day, we had sundowners at an idyllic spot along the river as we watched the splendid African sun slip into the horizon, treating us to a vibrant sunset.

On the morning of our departure, we went on a two-hour safari walk in the national park. The purpose, Jacob explained, was to immerse ourselves in the surroundings and study the micro-details of the bush that were impossible to experience from a car. We started walking around 8 a.m. Every few minutes Jacob would stop to explain the importance of a tree, animal prints, animal dung or a massive termite mound. As always, his descriptions were clear and fascinating. We took a break on a hillside about an hour and a half later to enjoy morning tea, coffee and cakes. We were accompanied by Kefis, the scout, and Axon, the tea bearer.

We sighted: African elephants, African buffalo, lions, leopards, greater kudus, common waterbucks, impalas, pukus, bushbucks, hippopotamuses, Crawshay’s zebras, thornicroft’s giraffes, a four-toed elephant shrew, tree squirrels, warthogs, yellow baboons and vervet monkeys.

Birds included: Bateleurs, African fish eagles, Martial eagles, brown snake eagles, hooded vultures, lappet-faced vultures, white-backed vultures, African darters, cattle egrets, great white egrets, little egrets, Egyptian geese, hamerkops, black-headed herons, goliath herons, grey herons, squacco herons, African-sacred ibis, hadeda ibis, openbill storks, African spoonbills, marabou storks, saddle-billed storks, wooly-necked storks, yellow-billed storks, red-billed oxpeckers, and Meve’s longtailed starlings.

Other The House ran on 220 volt electricity from a main power grid and had three-pin square wall socket British style plugs. Tap water was from a borehole and filtered so it was safe to drink. Bottled water was also provided.

The property was Overall Winner and Best Poverty Reduction Award winner of the 2011 Virgin Holidays Responsible Tourism Awards.

Since 1989, Robin Pope Safaris had supported the education of children from the local Nsefu village. Thanks to donations from guests, the company had been able to build classrooms and sponsored the school fees of hundreds of children. The social project, managed by Project Luangwa, an umbrella organization, was run in partnership with local villagers and designed to also support the needs of the village community.

We visited the Kawaza Basic School and were impressed by the staff’s dedication to high quality education. Despite the numerous challenges that many of the students faced, (the headmaster estimated that 200 of the students were orphans), the school had bragging rights to noticeably higher pass rates compared to neighboring schools. The headmaster also described a number of students who had graduated, thanks to the sponsorships, and were successfully employed as accountants and other professionals in Lusaka. We were treated to the students’ choir rehearsal, during which they sang, beautifully, a traditional call and response song while marching in rhythm in a circle. Visiting the school offered us an enriching opportunity to get a taste of everyday life in Kawaza Village.

We appreciated the company’s responsible tourism practices. Examples were that house employees were Zambian; in building the house, the owners used wood from fallen trees instead of chopping down live ones; guests had the option of staying in Kawaza Village in one of the traditional huts, which generated income for the community; and in addition to sponsoring children at the school we visited, Robin Pope Safaris initiated a project called the Luwanga Project, which aims to support 20 schools in the area that lack resources due to geographic isolation. Because the initial school that Robin Safari supported had performed well compared to neighboring schools, they decided to expand the project to the entire area. To cut down on waste, leftover food not consumed by guests was placed in an employee community pantry. Employees could help themselves and share it with their families. Leftover motor oil used to repair the property’s safari vehicles was available to the local community. That was a particularly welcome benefit because oil was expensive and hard to come by in that rural area.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Visit June 2013

Reviewers Article by Laura Scheiber

Photos by Matthew James Harris

Service The eight staff members at the House during our stay were: house hostess, chef, room attendant, grounds man, kitchen assistant, two watchmen, waiter, and head guide. Our room was serviced twice a day. The service was outstanding and became a measuring stick by which we gauged high quality safari service for the rest of our stay in Zambia.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Nestled in a grove of evergreen mahogany trees on the bank of Zambia’s majestic Zambezi River, Chiawa Camp seemed more remote to us than other safari camps we had visited. To get there we had to fly to the Royal Airstrip, drive 20 minutes to the Zambezi River and take a 20-minute ride in a small motorboat while watching a gorgeous sunset against the backdrop of mountains and green trees along the riverbed. Situated in the Lower Zambezi National Park, Chiawa Camp offered luxurious tent accommodations in an iconic riverside setting with impeccable service and good game viewing. We saw three of the Big Five.

The camp had nine luxury tents that could accommodate up to 16 guests, each raised on wooden decks with river views. We stayed in Deluxe Tent Seven, complete with king-sized bed and all the fittings we might expect of a high end safari lodge. We especially liked taking hot bubble baths in the elegant claw and cloth bathtub that warmed us up on cool Zambian winter evenings. The service was superb, from the nightly hot water bottles to a private three-course lunch served on our veranda, and the food throughout was consistently good. One of the most memorable meals we’ve ever had was a candlelit barbeque dinner under a full moon on a small sand bar in the middle of the Zambezi River.

Not ten minutes after our arrival, we were hustled into a private open-top Toyota Land cruiser and sped off into the moonlit night to look for a lioness that we could hear roaring from the camp lobby. Along the way we had an exhilarating encounter with an elephant. Game viewing was not foregone on days we chose to relax in our high-end tent. From our private patio we could watch warthogs, impalas and baboons meander down a dry riverbed towards the Zambezi River.

One of the most memorable aspects of our stay was the ever present, slow moving and vast Zambezi River. It added serenity to our experience, placing us in touch with some of the natural rhythms of the beautiful Lower Zambezi National Park. It was a delight to sit quietly at breakfast, sipping coffee, and watch the river glide by.

The camp also had a vibrant history. While there we met co-owner Grant Cumings. Over dinner he shared riveting stories about battles with poachers in the early days of the property. Chiawa’s legacy of conservation added to the atmosphere of the place, and the staff’s commitment to responsible tourism made us even bigger fans of the property.

Chiawa had everything we could ask for including stunning natural beauty, authentic conservation credentials, excellent game viewing with accomplished guides, grand tented accommodations and exemplary service. For an authentic safari experience with class and social consciousness, we would return in a heartbeat.

Children Children eight years and older were welcome.

Class Of Accommodation Superior luxury safari tents

Connectivity Although our tent had Wi-Fi the owners requested that we keep usage to reasonable levels as the same connection was also used for day-to-day operations.

General Manager Joshua Chizuwa

Handicapped Access There was no handicapped access due to the dangers associated with wildlife and the remote location of the camp.

Length Of Stay 3 nights

Location Chiawa is located on the bank of the Zambezi River within the Lower Zambezi National Park. We flew by small plane from Lusaka to Royal (35 minutes), followed by a short overland drive (20 minutes) to a boat, which took us to the camp (20 minutes).

Managed Dave and Jenny Cumings ran operations from Lusaka, while Grant and Lynsey Cumings were based at Chiawa and Lusaka.

Owned The Cumings family.

Pets No pets were allowed.

Size The camp had nine luxury tents that could accommodate up to 16 guests. The camp covered two acres (48,000 square meters), within the 75 mile (120 kilometers) river frontage of the Lower Zambezi National Park. There were 45 staff members at the camp, including six guides and trackers.

Year Opened And Date Of Most Recent Renovation Founded in 1989, Chiawa’s most recent major renovations took place in 2008 when the staff completely rebuilt six tents from the ground up. We stayed in Tent Seven, the next tent up for renovations. Each year the Camp fine-tuned and tweaked its infrastructure, according to management representatives.

Lobby And Common Areas The bar and reception were in a two-story traditional open thatched structure with optimal views of the magnificent Zambezi River. The structure was made of regional building materials, with rosewood decks, hardwood tables and comfortable overstuffed couches with natural cotton cushions. The second floor viewing deck had comfortable seating options, perfect for relaxing while taking in the view of the river. Towards the back of the building on the first floor was a small library of roughly 45 books that evolved through a guest book exchange. African baskets and other knick knacks blended easily into the décor and added texture to the overall charm of the area. The Traditional Safari Camp style was described by Grant as “a nice balance of form and function rather than boutique hotel.”

Several feet away another open wooden structure with thatched roof housed the dining area. In it were long wooden tables that could accommodate up to ten guests each. At nighttime the tables were lit by candlelight. The overall effect was charming and romantic. Near the dining area, towards the river, there was an open fire pit surrounded by a circle of wooden and canvas field chairs. We typically ate our breakfast there, looking out onto the Zambezi as it glided past.

In between the bar and dining areas there were two public restrooms in a thatch roof structure with thick linen curtains attractively draped over the doorways. The public sink area had hand soap and linen napkins.

Bathroom The bathroom was adjacent to the sleeping area, separated by a wooden partition. An elegant claw and cloth bathtub was in the middle, offering views out onto the dry riverbed. We indulged in several wonderful hot bubble baths with Molton Brown bath gel. Behind the bathtub there were double washbasins, toilet and shower. The toilet and shower were partitioned by a wooden wall. The shower had a large rain showerhead with consistently hot water that felt heavenly after a busy day of safari activities. Outside the tent there was a wooden veranda with an outdoor shower surrounded by a tall wooden privacy fence. It was too cold to use the outdoor shower. There were plenty of plush towels. A large laundry basket sat in the corner. We could leave clothing there to be washed and returned within 24 hours.

Room We stayed in Deluxe Tent Seven, which was elevated on a wooden deck made of commercially harvested pine. It was approximately 23 feet (7 meters) by 36 feet (11 meters) in size. A grass-thatched roof protected the tent from the afternoon sun. The canvas tent faced southwest, offering excellent views out onto the dried Chowe riverbed running into the Zambezi River. The tent was open-fronted (covered by a thick mosquito net), so we could easily watch game such as baboons, waterbuck and warthogs come down to the water’s edge to drink. The décor was classic safari with dark mahogany furniture. The comfortable king-sized bed was covered in Egyptian linen white bed sheets and protected by mosquito netting. A ceiling fan and light were above the bed while small wooden nightstands with reading lamps were on either side of it. In one corner of the room there was a wooden desk and chair and standing fan, and in the middle of the sitting area there was a comfortable overstuffed off-white upholstered love seat with rust-colored throw pillows. A dark wooden coffee table was on top of a neutral colored throw rug. Along the wooden partition that separated the sleeping area from the bathroom there was a large mirror in a mahogany frame above a wooden table. Next to it was a tall wooden shelf unit that provided plenty of room to store personal items. Large pottery containers filled with tall feathery dried-out reeds added a finished look to the décor.

We had a delightful lunch one day on the veranda. A wooden sofa with cushions and a wooden table provided a spot to watch wildlife meander down to the river.

Meals The food, described by the owners as a fusion between Western and African cultures, was consistently good during our stay. Chefs Amos and George, and bakers Dakwa and Samuel, were trained in house by South African chefs, as well as visiting chefs from as far as San Francisco.

Breakfasts were served buffet style by the fire pit, close to the river. There was a wide choice of cereals, toast, muffins, porridge, fruit and yoghurt, with the option of eggs cooked to choice over the open fire. The serene backdrop of the Zambezi River made breakfast extra special.

Dinners were fresh and tasty four-course meals (with exception of an outstanding barbeque on the final night). Dinner on the first night was preceded by a performance of the male staff members singing traditional African songs. We were escorted to a candlelit table on the open deck of the dining area, and the meal started with a caramelized onion tarte, followed by butternut squash soup, tilapia with lemon and butter with potato croquettes and sautéed veggies, and complete with a caramelized salted cake. South African red and white wines were offered throughout the meal, along with coffee and tea for dessert.

Though the food in and of itself was outstanding, equally impressive were the varied places where meals were served. On the second day, we had lunch on a boat floating in the river, and at our request, on the veranda outside our tent on the third day. On the boat, we had rice, pepper and cheese salad, accompanied by rosemary bread (the property freshly baked breads were notable), stuffed chicken breast and roast potato, followed by a cheese and fruit selection for dessert. We were also offered sparkling wine, but declined because we did not want to be sleepy during the afternoon canoe trip. In the late afternoon, treats such as brie with jam or cakes were served with tea and coffee.

On our last night we had one of the most memorable dining experiences of our lives. Dinner was served under a full super moon on a sandbank in the Zambezi River. Unbeknownst to us, the staff had spent a good part of the afternoon setting up family style dining tables with tablecloths, glassware, stemware, candles and a full bar. They even brought over a fully functional toilet, curtained off for privacy. The scenery was absolutely stunning as we watched the sunset while sipping pre dinner drinks. It was the perfect spot to watch the super moon slowly ascend into the sky. The food was cooked on the sandbar over an open fire. On offer was a barbeque selection of chicken, beef and pork with a variety of salads. Also available were a range of traditional Zambian foods such as Nshima (the main cornmeal staple of the country), creamed spinach with peanut sauce, and elephant bread (a bread made with beer). We had no room for dessert.

Amenities Beverages, food, and activities were included in the nightly rate. Other amenities included linen bathrobes, and complimentary laundry service. For cultural reasons ladies personal items were excluded from the laundry service. Those could be hand washed using Ecologica brand name laundry soap. There were cotton balls and swabs, two 1.2 ounce bottles of Ecologica conditioning shampoo, shower gels and body lotion, a 9.6 ounce bottle of Molton Brown lotion and bath soap, and insect repellant for skin and another for clothes. The room had a safe and walkie talkie to call porters to walk us to the bar and dining area at night.

We had no need to cool down because we visited in winter. The staff informed us that in the summer months guests could wear special wet towels to bed with the fans on instead of air conditioning associated with high power consumption.

Facilities A gift shop and in the main common area, there was also a small library (about 45 books donated by guests through a book exchange).

Gift Shop Chiawa had a small gift shop of local crafts and jewelry, opened on request. I bought several colorful necklaces handmade of recycled materials by a group of women belonging to a cooperative.

Pool A small circular outdoor plunge pool (about three meters in diameter) sat next to the bar area, surrounded by five sun loungers.

Game Viewing As soon as we arrived, we were hustled into a Toyota Land Cruiser with a guide and armed scout and sped off into the moonlit night to find the lioness we had heard roaring from the camp. Rounding a corner we surprised an elephant, which charged us while trumpeting angrily. Our driver reacted quickly. The exhilarating experience will stay with us forever. A few minutes later we found the lioness on the ground calling out to her pride. Hearing the volume of her roar, so powerful that we could feel it reverberate in our chest, was another priceless memory we took with us. The spotlight held by the scout had a red filter, which management believed was less intrusive than traditional spotlights on the animals eyes.

On the second day, we took a three hour canoe trip with game viewing. Being in the water allowed us to get closer to some of the animals than if we had been on land. After riding upstream by motorboat for 20 minutes, we canoed back via the Inkhalange Channel before paddling down the Zambezi River. At one point we drifted past a huge crocodile, only to watch it slip into the river. It was good incentive to keep our fingers out of the water. We felt we were in good hands as Wallace, our certified river guide, had carefully reviewed safety rules before we got into the four-person canoe with lifejackets. Each canoe had two guests and a guide. Just before sunset we watched a herd of elephants including young ones cross the river, led by a cautious matriarch. It was another unforgettable memory. We watched in awe the social interaction of those spectacular animals from about 50 feet, including baby elephants interlocking trunks with older ones.

On the third day, we hopped in an open Land Cruiser ready for a walking safari, but took a detour when we heard the sound of a roaring lion. A few minutes later we came across a beautiful male lion casually walking along a dirt path in the morning sun. During our two and a half hour walk through the bush, we saw beautiful open landscapes with Chirapila Mountain in the distance. We also saw impalas and warthogs, and “Limpy” the elephant, a well-known local to the camp who earned his nickname due to his distinctive walk. In the afternoon, we went on a boat safari, during which we took photos of two elephants crossing the river and munching on fresh grass on a small island. The light on the Zambezi River just before sunset was striking and ideal for taking wildlife photos.

During our stay we saw: lions, African elephants, African buffalos, kudus, common waterbucks, impalas, bushbucks, hippopotamuses, baboons, monkeys, bats, and warthogs.

In terms of birds, we saw: greenbacked herons, squacco herons, Goliath herons, cattle egrets, great white egrets, hammerkops, hadeda ibis, glossy ibis, cardinal woodpeckers, black-eyed bulbuls, yellow-bellied bulbuls, crested spurfowls, natal spurfowls, fish eagles, martial eagles, greater honeyguides, tropical boubou shrikes, puffback shrikes, little bee eaters, white-fronted bee eaters, brownhooded kingfishers, giant kingfishers, pied kingfishers, woodland kingfishers, trumpeter hornbills, crowned hornbills, redbilled hornbills, African pied wagtails, forktailed drongos, water thick knees, grey louries, Meve’s starlings, redbilled oxpeckers, and blue waxbills.

Activities Chiawa offered an array of exciting activities: catch and release fishing, canoe trips, pontoon boat cruises, safari walks and game viewing drives in the morning, afternoon and evening. Something that we appreciated was that their itineraries were customized to our requests and often combined a number of activities in one day. For example, they offered us an afternoon river cruise. At the end of the cruise they invited us to either be picked up by car and brought back to camp via a night safari drive or enjoy sundowners on an island in the Zambezi River.

On our journey leaving Chiawa, we were given a tour of Conservation Lower Zambezi (CLS). Set up through a collaboration between Grant and the Danish Consulate, it was a nonprofit residential center providing a variety of conservation programs and furthering understanding of the natural environment in Zambia. In addition to wildlife preservation and environmental education, CLS also supported local development projects.

Other Chiawa had a strict policy of no electronic devices in public areas to respect guests wanting “to get away from it all.” The property had recently installed electric silent motors in their pontoons in an effort to minimize environmental impact.

The Camp had a rich legacy of conservation and continued commitment to responsible tourism in the Lower Zambezi region of Zambia. In addition to heroic anti-poaching efforts since its inception in 1989, Grant crafted the first safari guide training manual with a code of conduct for Lower Zambezi guides to promote high quality and responsible guiding. The company developed a government recognized examination and certification program. Chiawa safari guides received annual professional development to ensure high quality guiding. The Cumings family also co-founded Conservation Lower Zambezi, a nonprofit organization with a residential center that provides a myriad of conservation and HIV/AIDS education program to Zambians.

Additional practices aimed at responsible tourism included biodegradable room amenities; hiring local staff; providing school uniforms, sporting goods and school materials for 300 AIDS orphans annually; and donating $25,000 to charities that assisted vulnerable populations, wildlife and habitats.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit June 2013

Reviewers Article by Laura Scheiber

Photos by Matthew James Harris

Service Chiawa’s customized service was excellent. At the Royal Airstrip, the staff offered us refreshments for the journey to camp. On arrival, Maddy Brown, researcher and hostess, handed us a refreshing tea. Daniel Susiku, one of several safari and river guides, asked what kind of activities we wished to partake in during our stay. On the second day, we had asked if one of our meals could be served on the terrace of our tent. The staff served us a delicious three course lunch with tablecloth, homemade fresh bread, and house wine of our choice.

Throughout our stay the serving staff was efficient, polite and cheerful. Management, especially Joshua Chizuwa and Stuart Rhoda, were attentive to our comfort and every need. The safari guides proved to be most knowledgeable about the surrounding area, and no matter how obscure our questions about the animals and birds we encountered, they answered them with ease. We appreciated the good humor and never ending smiles of Wallace Kabompa, one of the guides. In order to keep abreast in the field, the propety provided guides with annual refresher courses through a government certified program that Grant had spearheaded for guides in the Lower Zambezi.

Our room was always in pristine condition on our return from activities and there were also some nice touches that added to the overall pleasantness of our stay. On the day of arrival, our towels were placed on the bed in the shape of elephants. As part of our wake up call at the hour of our choice, the staff left tea and coffee outside our tent prior to breakfast. They placed hot water bottles in our bed on cold nights during the evening room service. If we ever had any questions or requests, the staff responded quickly through the easy to use walkie talkie system in our tent.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression The Sausage Tree Camp whimsically announced itself as the motorboat taking me down the Zambezi River approached its landing dock. Pristine conical Bedouin tents peering through the extravagant canopy of riverine forest in the Lower Zambezi National Park? Indeed! The camp consisted of seven Bedouin-style circular tents discreetly positioned above the bank of the scenic entrance of the Chifungulu channel. Each tent offered complete privacy, along with a terrific view of the river and an island filled with shivering reeds where big game loved to hide. The camp’s décor was an inspired fusion of styles resulting in minimalist luxury that left the senses free to concentrate on the intense wildlife activity around and within the camp. 

Elephants were everywhere! A large bull, unimpressed by my arrival, kept on browsing by the path between the lounge and my tent. It postponed my moving in just long enough to enjoy a second welcome drink and a bit of socializing with Tash Dower, the companionable camp manager. However, my favorite elephant anecdote occurred the next morning, when a long trunk snaked over the wall of my open air bathroom while I was in the shower. Its owner was casually gathering overhanging foliage for its breakfast.

With such an active wildlife and superb scenery around, it would have been easy to cocoon in the luxurious surroundings of the camp. But the enthusiastic Sausage Tree team lavished such personal attention on their guests that they devised activities to tempt everyone. I could not resist a pontoon boat sundown cruise. I enjoyed sharing the great river only with snorting hippos and the occasional crocodile, while the sun slipped behind the hills, turning the infinite African sky into every color of the rainbow. The next morning, I took a canoe trip down the seven miles (eleven kilometers) of the Chifungulu channel to observe abundant game going about their daily routine of feeding and bathing.  A few feet ahead, elephants crossed from the bank to the island, and hippos made a run for the water, scattering spray everywhere.

As the canoe reached the main river, a motor boat from the Sausage Tree fleet waited to tow the canoe back upriver, and take me to my next treat.  A table was laid out in a shallow, sandy area of the river. As the guests arrived, they disembarked and waded to the table where a sumptuous lunch awaited.  A whole new dimension in alfresco dining! A tranquil enclave of casual luxury in the heart of an exceptionally rich game habitat, enhanced by thoughtful, personalized service, Sausage Tree was an especially enjoyable river camp; one that I would recommend to my friends withouth hesitation.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury bush camp

Communications : Basic Internet connectivity could be arranged to check e-mail in case of emergency, contingent to availability of satellite connections. The camp also had UHF and HF radios for communications with the outside world. Guests could use their personal satellite phones.

Handicapped Access No 

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location Sausage Tree was located on the bank of the Zambezi River, at the entrance of the Chifungulo channel, in the heart of the Lower Zambezi National Park in southeastern Zambia, immediately across from Zimbabwe’s famed Mana Pools. It was approximately 30 minutes by air from Lusaka to either of the two airstrips serving the park: Royal and Jeki. Royal was two hours up river from the Chiawa via motor boat. Jeki was located northeast of the camp, a one-hour drive away through the bush.  

Managers David and Tash Dower

Owner Jason Mott

Power A silent generator produced electricity for night-time tent lighting and to recharge batteries. A NW-135C adapter was necessary to use the electrical outlets (the kind used in the U.K.). 

Size Sausage Tree occupied two acres (8,100 square meters) with a 550 yard (500 meters) river frontage, in the immensity of park. It could accommodate a maximum of 14 guests in its seven circular Bedouin-style tents, and employed a staff of 25 including a game viewing staff of five guides and trackers.

Transportation From Lusaka, reliable charter airline flights were available daily to the Jeki airstrip. The Royal airstrip could also be used. Sausage provided transportation to and from the airstrips to the camp. Getting around the Lower Zambezi National Park area was either by land cruiser, motorboat, canoe, or on foot.

Year Open-Renovated Originally opened in 1990 as a mobile safari camp, Sausage Tree was entirely renovated to its current form in 2000. The camp was open mid-April through October. It was completely refurbished each year prior to reopening.    

Common Areas Open-walled Bedouin tents housed the bar, lounge and dining area. They were clustered at a prime vantage point overlooking the channel and the island. The common areas also included a viewing deck overhanging the river bank. A camp fire was built in a pit in a corner of the deck in the early morning and after dark. It was an ideal place to congregate for breakfast, or to socialize after dinner. The atmosphere was stylishly relaxed, with groupings of overstuffed armchairs upholstered in striped white and taupe canvas clustered around dark wooden coffee tables. The dining area included a long table surrounded with wooden chairs with cushions matching the armchairs in the lounge. A free-form concrete platform with thick padding and piles of toss pillows provided additional sofa seating. The dining area housed a tall book case with a collection of books on the local wildlife, nature and culture, and was also used as a reading room.

Bathroom The 150 square foot (14 square meters) circular open-air bathroom adjoined the sleeping tent. It was made of dark yellow polished concrete. In addition the flush toilet and a vanity with sink and mirror, it featured an oversize shower stall with a large overhead showerhead. Hot water was available around the clock.

Room My tent (Suite Number Three) was a circular 300 square foot (28 square meters) Bedouin tent raised on a three foot high (one meter) polished concrete platform. The entire tent was sheltered under a canopy of tall Natal mahogany trees. The walls consisted of panels of framed bamboo. At the front of the tent, walls were replaced with canvas and screening panels that opened to reveal a scenic view of the river. All the wooden furniture in the room was of dark teak. In addition to a king-size four-poster bed swathed in immaculate mosquito netting, and framed by two bedside tables with reading lamps, furniture included a high bureau, a hanging closet and a credenza. Above the latter, hung a framed  watercolor of a local landscape. A full length cheval mirror, a large brass fan on a stand and two arm chairs with an oval coffee table completed the décor. Chair cushions and accent pillows were dark yellow to match the concrete floor. The whole space exuded an atmosphere of quiet luxury that was further enhanced by a superior quality mattress, a choice of down and non-allergenic pillows and silky, and high-count cotton bed linen.

Food The food was delicious. In addition the early morning room service, continental breakfast was served buffet style on the viewing deck. Lunch was also buffet style, with a generous menu of hot meat and vegetarian dishes, salads, cheese board and freshly baked bread. Dinner was plated and formally served. Chef Honoré Kabongo, a native of the Congo who had also worked in France, was an outstanding baker. His tea-time freshly baked goodies were my downfall.

Amenities Bathroom amenities included sheet-size bath towels, body wash, shampoo, conditioner, body moisturizing cream, a shower cap and a lovely terry-lined luffa sponge that I enjoyed through the remainder of my trip. In addition to the bathroom supplies, Sausage Tree amenities included daily laundry, thermos of chilled drinking water, mosquito and insect control spray and a flashlight. A two-way radio was available in the room to request an escort to the common area when there were animals in close proximity or to call with any other requirements. Use of a safe was available in the main office. All meals and beverages were included, starting with a wake-up tea or coffee room service that was delivered with scrumptious freshly baked cookies. All daily game viewing activities were also included.

Swimming Pool The swimming pool was 28 feet by 17 feet (nine meters by five meters), with depths ranging from four to seven feet (one to two meters). It was set in a large flagstone apron furnished with two padded lounge chairs shaded by white umbrellas, and a long wooden bench . Fresh bath towels were always stacked on a tray nearby.

Game Viewing During my stay at Sausage, I sighted: elephant, hippo, buffalo, genet, bushy-tailed mongoose, chacma baboon, vervet monkey, impala, bushbuck, waterbuck, Nile crocodile, monitor lizard. Birds included: Goliath heron, green-backed heron, cattle egret, great white egret, little egret, water dikkop, pied king fisher, giant king fisher, malachite king fisher, red-eyed dove, tropical booboo, white-crowned plover.

Activities Sausage Tree offered a full range of game-viewing activities, including day and night game drives, walking safaris, boating, fishing for the world- renowned Zambezi tiger fish, and my favorite: canoeing. The lower Zambezi was known for its outstanding canoeing. I trust that Sausage Tree, with its privileged location by the Chigungulu channel and the quality of its canoeing guides, contributed greatly to this reputation.

Others Because of the proximity to wild game, children had to be at least 12 to visit.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit July 2007

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service At Sausage service was excellent, with great attention to details and to the personality of each guest. Each chalet was assigned a muchinga (butler) who was personally responsible for the well-being of “his guests” for the duration of their stay. Shephard Mulangachonzi, a gregarious young man for the Goba tribe, was my muchinga . When a glitch in my onward travel reservations made it necessary for me to depart the camp at 4:30 am, Shephard appeared at my door at 4 a.m. with my “wake up” tea tray, served exactly to my preferences. He reappeared 30 minutes later with the land cruiser driver. He carried a hot water bottle and a warm blanket for my comfort (the nights were chilly in July in the Lower Zambezi bush); and insisted on traveling with us so to ensure that my luggage was transferred smoothly to the boat that would take me upriver to the Royal airstrip.

The true measure of service is how staff respond when, in spite of everyone’s best efforts, something goes awry. Tash, the camp manager, an energetic young woman with an unwavering can-do attitude, showed her mettle on the afternoon prior to my departure. Upon reconfirming my travel arrangements, she discovered that the national airline had arbitrarily cancelled my reservation between Lusaka and the next stop on my itinerary, throwing my entire trip in disarray. Tash spent the next two hours on the shortwave radio before she was able to happily announce she had arranged a whole new itinerary for me with local charter airlines! I arrived in Livingstone, my next destination, without further concerns, two hours ahead of my originally planned arrival time.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Located downstream from Lake Kariba on the northern bank of the Zambezi River, the Lower Zambezi National Park is the most recent of Zambia’s parks. Established in 1983, immediately across the river from Zimbabwe’s world famous Mana Pools, it is still an area of mainly untouched wilderness. The park stretches for 75 miles (120 kilometers) between the Chongwe River to the west almost to the confluence of the Luangwa River to the east, and extends 20 miles (32 kilometers) inland to the Zambezi escarpment. Although the park covers an area of 1,580 square miles (4,092 square kilometers), the spectacular backdrop of the steep escarpment acts as a natural barrier to most species, concentrating most of the game’s activity near the edge of the river.

The park and its surrounding Game Management Area, combined with the Mana Pools across the river, formed an especially rich bio-diverse area of forests and wetlands that supported an abundant wildlife. The valley was home to many mammal species including hippo, elephant, buffalo, zebra, lion, leopard, genet, civet, and a large number of gazelles. It also offered some of the most abundant and colorful birdlife I have come across anywhere (estimated to include close to 400 bird species). The river bank was scalloped with channels that created lush islands along the main river. Canoeing down the quiet, shady channels was an idyllic safari experience, made possible by the excellence of the river guides at the camps I visited. They were experts at unobtrusively stirring canoes very close to lions quenching their thirst and elephants or buffalos wading from one island to the next. They also allowed me to get a close-up view of the rich variety of birds living along the river, from the giant goliath heron to the tiny jewel-like malachite king fisher.

Because of its remote location and limited infrastructure, the Lower Zambezi National Park was not easily accessible. However, its pristine isolation and the outstanding density and variety of game congregating along the river, coupled with the luxury of the camps and lodges that operated near and in the park, made it superb destination.

Climate The climate of the Lower Zambezi is generally cool and dry from April to August, hot and dry from September to December and wet and humid from January to April. I visited in early July, when temperatures ranged from the 80s Fahrenheit during the day to the low 50s at night.

Cost Of Visiting Moderate to high

Currency The currency of Zambia, the kwacha, had an exchange rate of approximately 4000 kwachas for one U.S. dollar at the time of my visit.

Electrical Current 220 Volts/50 Hz. A NW-135C adapter was necessary when using electrical outlets (the kind used in the U.K.).

Health And Vaccinations There were no mandatory inoculations for travel to Zambia at the time of my visit. My local health clinic, following the Center for Disease Control (CDC) guidelines, recommended an up-to-date inoculation schedule for meningitis, hepatitis, rabies, sleeping sickness, tetanus and typhoid fever; as well as visitor precautions for AIDS and preventive medication for malaria. For daily protection from insects, I used a combination of repellant cream with CDC-recommended high DEET concentration on exposed skin, and a DEET-free spray for facial protection. Additionally, as always in tropical climates, high protection sunscreen was a daily necessity.

Location The Lower Zambezi National Park was located in southeastern Zambia on the north bank of the Zambezi River, immediately the across the river from Zimbabwe’s famed Mana Pools National Park, 94 miles (150 kilometers) down River from the Kariba Dam.

Measures Metric system

Money Issues All prices in areas that catered to tourists, including airport taxes and park fees were quoted in U.S. dollars. Because I couldn’t anticipate whether change could be made in U.S. dollars, I brought all the funds for incidentals, tips and souvenirs, in small U.S. denominations (mainly $1, $5 and $10). This ensured that I didn’t accumulate local currency along the way.

Technology The camps I visited offered running hot and cold water, and electricity. They had satellite Internet access, although service was sometimes erratic. Cellular telephone service was available intermittently along the river with a GSM 900/1800 compatible international cell phone.

Time GMT/UTC plus two hours (e.g. Continental European time)

Transportation The only ways to get around in the park were by all-wheel drive vehicles, motor boat, canoe or on foot.

When To Visit Mid-April to mid-November

How To Get There South African Airways (SAA) offered daily flights from Washington and New York to Johannesburg, South Africa. Several European airlines also offered daily flights to Johannesburg from various European gateways. From Johannesburg, SAA and Air Zambia operated daily flights to Lusaka. British Airways had one daily flight between London and Lusaka. From Lusaka, reliable charter flights were available daily to either the Royal or Jeki airstrips. Flight time was approximately 30 minutes. These could be arranged through the camps operating in and around the park, which also provided transportation to and from the airstrips . At the time of my visit, there was an airport departure tax of $8 for domestic flights and $25 for international flights. A tourist visa valid for one entry could be obtained at passport control in Lusaka for $100.

Facilities There were no shopping, dining or healthcare facilities in or near the Park.

Shopping And Souvenirs The lodges and camps had limited souvenir shops, stocked mainly with locally decorated textiles and some woodcarvings.

Tourism Highlights The daily decision during my visit to the Lower Zambezi National Park was how I wanted to view the abundant wildlife surrounding me! Although canoeing was my personal favorite, pontoon cruises on the river were available, as were daytime walks and drives, and early evening drives using powerful spotlights to see nocturnal animals. It was also tempting to simply lounge on the deck of my tent and enjoy the on-going movement of game passing by on its way to the river. Bird watching along the channels was a special treat, as much for the variety of species as for the abundance of birds.

The area was also an anglers’ paradise. The Vundu, a giant catfish weighing up 100 pounds and the famous tiger fish, reputed to be the most challenging fresh-water fish, were in abundance. The camps I visited observed a strict catch and release policy.

Date Of Latest Visit July 2007

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Would You Visit This Destination Again? Yes

Overall Impression Located on the bank of the Chongwe River, at the point where it meets the Zambezi, the Chongwe River Camp offered a panoramic view of the western boundary of the Lower Zambezi National Park. Nestled in a lush grove of winterthorn acacias, this luxurious camp was designed to blend unobtrusively into its splendid surroundings: the steep Zambezi escarpment to the north and Zimbabwe’s famed Mana Pools immediately across the Zambezi to the south. Pods of hippos filled the Chongwe like so many moving islands. Meanwhile, on the opposite bank, the park was home to a dense population of elephants and buffalos that constantly filed to the water for a drink or a bath, or came across to visit. More than once, my short walk from the common areas to my tent was delayed while an elephant ambled down the path, claiming its incontestable right of way.

The inspired architecture of the common areas ensured that the guests could fully enjoy the exuberant wilderness surrounding them. The lounge area was furnished with curving concrete platforms lined with thick pads and mounds of toss pillows, with every spot offering a different perspective. The lounge and bar were shaded by an oversized canvas roof stretched from sculptural tree trunks. The long family-style dining table, as well as an additional circular seating area, was set in the open air on an outcrop overlooking the confluence of the Chongwe and the Zambezi. The hospitality was as outstanding as the view, with a full coffee and tea service perennially set in the lounge, the bar open, the friendly and attentive staff constantly at hand, and a wealth of safari options available.

While sunset and night drives across the Chongwe River into the park were interesting, my favorite way to explore this bountiful environment was from a canoe. My guide Wedmore Kumbani, a Shona tribesman originally from Zimbabwe, was a quiet young man with a ready smile and an expert oarsman who could unobtrusively approach a fifteen foot Nile crocodile sunning itself on the bank or navigate around a pod of grumpy hippos. He could also spot from a distance the spectacular birds that inhabited the banks of the river, and smoothly glide to them for an undisturbed close up view. I quickly became a canoe safari enthusiast, with a newfound interest in bird photography! With its casual, friendly atmosphere, superb comfort and close proximity to continual game activity, Chongwe was an especially welcoming place where I could have happily settled for an extended stay.

Location The Chongwe River Camp was immediately across the Chongwe River from the western boundaries of the Lower Zambezi National Park in southeastern Zambia, approximately 30 minutes by air from Lusaka.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury safari camp

Communications : Internet wireless connectivity could be arranged between 7am and 8pm, at the mercy of the satellite connection. Cellular telephone service was available with a GSM 900/1800 compatible international cell phone. The camp also had UHF and HF radios for emergency communications with the outside world.

Handicapped Access No wheelchair accommodations were available. By previous arrangement, the camp could accommodate hearing or vision impaired visitors traveling with non-impaired companions.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Owner And Manager Christiaan Liebenberg

Power The camp used paraffin lanterns as well as solar powered ones. Solar electricity was available in the lounge to charge batteries for small electronic equipments. A NW-135C adapter was necessary to use the electrical outlets (the kind used in the U.K.).

Size Chongwe occupied about 10 acres (40,500 square meters) of prime river frontage. It consisted of eight guest chalets capable of accommodating up to 16 guests. In addition to a managerial staff of five, the camp included 40 local employees, including four game viewing guides for driving, walking and canoeing safaris, plus three coxswains and fishing guides.

Transportation From Lusaka, reliable charter airline flights were available daily to the Royal airstrip. It was a 30 minute drive on bush roads from Royal to the camp, which provided transportation to and from the airstrip. Getting around the Lower Zambezi National Park area was either by land cruiser, motorboat, canoe, or on foot.

Year Open-Renovated The camp originally opened in 1999. It was fully refurbished each year and the object of on-going enhancements. At the time of my visit, a new suite, the Albida Suite, including two rooms under separate Bedouin-tented roofs and a private plunge pool, was under construction, and scheduled to open in August 2007.

Lobby And Common Areas Set in a grove of mahogany and winterthorn acacia trees, the common areas included a spacious lounge and bar area under a tented roof. Furniture consisted of free-form curving saffron-colored concrete platforms covered with thick pads upholstered in light green canvas and bright cotton pillows made of local weavings. A collection of books on the local fauna, flora and culture was scattered about the lounge area. A large circular open-air seating area with comfortable wooden armchairs overlooked the river. It served as breakfast spot and was an inviting place to socialize around an open fire at night, or to gaze at the starry African sky.

Bathroom The bathroom was a 250 square foot (23 square meters) open air enclosure in the back of the tent, with high privacy walls of concrete and thatch. Fixtures included a sink made of a slab of polished concrete on a wooden stand with a mirror above, a flush toilet and shower with a stone base built in the far corner of the room. Hot water was available. A wooden shelf tucked under the outer overhang of the tent held ample supplies of bath and face towels and provided storage. Bathroom amenities were some of the most thoughtful that I have seen in camps anywhere.

Room My chalet, Number Six, was a 435 square foot (40 square meters) tent under a thick thatched roof, raised on a brown polished concrete slab. On three sides, multiple windows covered with netting let in cooling breezes and a breathtaking view that reached from the Mana Pools across the Zambezi to the south and to the steep Zambezi escarpment to the north. The front of the tent offered an intimate view of the Chongwe River and the park on the opposite bank. Outside, a thickly padded lounge chair was my favorite spot to read or observe the frequent game activity during the hot hours of the day. The rear of the tent led down two steps to a walled open air bathroom. The tent was invitingly furnished in simple African safari style, with two comfortable double beds covered with white cotton throws, flanked by wooden bedside tables. On the opposite wall, two wooden chests doubled as luggage racks. In the evening lighting was provided by solar powered lanterns.

Food The food was delicious and varied. All meals were served in the open air, on an outcrop between the river and the lounge. Breakfast was buffet style in a circular seating area around a camp fire. Lunch and dinner were served family style at a long, linen clad table.

Amenities In the bathroom, an attractive display in a palm tray included full size tubes of body wash, shampoo, conditioner, body moisturizing cream, insect repellent, as well as moisturizing soap, feminine hygiene sundries and a pocket-size package of tissues. In addition to the bathroom supplies, chalet amenities included daily laundry, thermos of chilled drinking water, a flashlight, mosquito and insect control products. Use of a safe was available in the main office. All meals and beverages were also included, as well as all daily game viewing activities.

Swimming Pool The pool was 16 by 36 feet (five meters by eleven meters), with depth ranging from four to eight feet (one to two meters). It was surrounded by a five foot (one and a half meter) concrete apron that held three lounge chairs with thick padding and a large sun umbrella. Towels were available on demand.

Game Viewing While at Chongwe, I sighted: elephant, hippo, buffalo, genet, bushy-tailed mongoose, civet, chec ma baboon, impala, bushbuck, waterbuck, Nile crocodile. Birds included: Pel’s fishing owl, hammerkop, goliath heron, cattle egret, double-banded sand grouse, African fish eagle, water dikkop, African jacana, African pied wagtail, malachite kingfisher, green-backed heron, reed cormorant, white-crowned lapwing, white-fronted bee-eater, little bee-eater, Egyptian goose, Marshall eagle.

Activities Morning and late afternoon game viewing activities included canoeing, pontoons boat cruises, walks and drives. Fishing for the famed Zambezi tiger fish was also an option. Fishing was on a strict catch and release basis. Game drives were available in the early evening using powerful spotlights to see nocturnal animals. In addition to the rich concentration of game, the banks of the Chongwe were host to a spectacular birdlife.

Other Because of the proximity to wild game, children had to be at least 12 to visit.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit July 2007

ReviewersArticle and photographs by Josette King

Service The unobtrusively attentive and friendly staff provided excellent service. The room was serviced twice a day.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression My visit to Luwi was an exciting safari back in time! This remote bush camp located deep in the wilderness of the South Luangwa National Park consisted of four reed and thatch huts with polished mud floor and a small bar area nestled under a canopy of venerable Natal mahoganies. Luwi was a seasonal camp open only during the dry months of June through October. There were virtually no roads in this far-flung area of the park; activities were mainly on foot, lead by long-time Luwi guide Sam Nkhoma, accompanied by an armed scout. At this property, the emphasis was on identifying and following fresh tracks, as well as bird and plant identification.

It was a special thrill on one of our morning walks to track a lion across the dry sands of the nearby Lubi River. Even though we didn’t catch up with it at that time, we did view the solitary male later that day. Shortly after that a large bull elephant caught up with us on our sunset walk. We stood entranced as he wandered across the clearing, stopping to snack on the leaves of mopane trees, unconcerned by the frantic staccato clicks of our cameras. We then concluded our walk in the dry river bed. In a space surrounded by paraffin lanterns, the staff had prepared a camp fire complete with camp chairs, an old-fashioned portable bar and freshly baked hors d’oeuvres. We enjoyed our sundowners while learning to single out and identify the various sounds of the bush. The next night we ended our walk with a sundowner at a hippo hide high on the bank of the permanent lagoon within five minutes from the camp. Just below us, in a pod thirty strong, hippos were arguing over wallowing rights under the watchful eyes of a daunting line of yawning crocodiles. The discussion that night was on hippo behavior.

For all its closeness with a landscape unchanged for millennia and its rough-hewed old-fashioned bush camp feel, Luwi did not compromise on modern comforts. Under a walk-in mosquito net, the high-count cotton cover of the cloud-like duvet on my king-size bed was freshly pressed. Turn-down service included a hot water bottle thoughtfully slipped under the covers in anticipation of a chilly night (I visited in early July, the coolest time of year in this part of the southern hemisphere). With its emphasis on walking and learning in the heart of the African wilderness, Luwi provided visitors a rare opportunity to experience one of the last traditional bush camps as envisioned by the late great conservationist and guide Norman Carr.

Class Of Accommodation Rustic wilderness bush camp

Communications The camp used two way radio communications. Guests could also use their personal satellite phones.

General Manager Nick Aslin

Handicapped Access Handicapped guests could be accommodated by prior arrangement on a case by case basis.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Luwi camp manager Trish Stevenson

Owners The Potts Family and Nick Aslin. Adrian and Christina Carr remained active participants in the operation of Norman Carr Safaris at the time of my visit.

Power Lighting was provided by paraffin lanterns. Other than a solar panel that provided electricity to recharge camera batteries, there was no electricity at the camp.

Size The camp could accommodate eight guests in its four chalets. The property covered approximately one and a half acres and employed a staff of eight including two game viewing staff.

Transportation Mfuwe could be reached by air from Lusaka and Livingstone. Road transfers to and from the airport were arranged by Norman Carr Safaris.

Year Open-Renovated Originally opened in 1991, the camp is entirely dismantled each November and rebuilt each spring. Reconstruction takes approximately six weeks.

Common Areas A thick thatch roof wedged between two mahogany tree trunks shaded the small open-sided bar and four sturdy wooden bar stools. The stools were usually ignored as guest and staff preferred to gather in the eight teak armchairs with dark green cushions that were arranged in a semi-circle around the camp fire, facing the grassy plain beyond the camp.

Bathroom The bathroom was a 200 foot (19 square meters) open air enclosure adjacent to the bedroom. Seven-foot high grass walls provided complete privacy. The flooring and shower backdrop were made of reed matting. A reed shelf held a stack of washcloths, hand towels and oversized bath towels. Hot water was available. In addition to the shower, bathroom fixtures included a sink and mirror and a flush toilet.

Room My chalet, Number Four, was a 350 square foot (33 square meters) bedroom built exclusively of reed and thatch, with a polished mud floor covered with woven palm mats. In addition to a canopied king-size bed flanked by two wooden end-tables, the furniture included two wooden chairs, built-in reed storage shelves and luggage racks. The bed canopy was outlined by a patchwork border of local cottons; coordinated toss pillows enhanced the natural cotton bed cover. Artfully draped mosquito netting completed the décor and provided insect protection at night. The most striking decorative elements of the room were the trunk and lower branches of a large mahogany tree that occupied the back quarter of the room.

Food The food was delicious, wholesome and remarkably diverse for such a remote location. All supplies were brought fresh from Kapani, the main lodge of Norman Carr Safaris, located in the Game Management Area, near the entrance of the park. Chef Jackson Zulu was an especially talented baker who produced daily the most tempting fresh breads, tea-time snacks and sundowner appetizers in his native mud brick oven. Meals were served at a common table in an open area with a sweeping view of a grassy plain teeming with wildlife; lunch was in the shade and dinner under the stars. Breakfast and evening socializing were laid-back affairs around the camp fire.

Amenities Luwi amenities and services included daily game walks and night drives, all meals and drinks, including mid-morning and sundowner snacks and beverages, and daily laundry service. My chalet was supplied with toiletries (bath soap and gel, shampoo), insect repellant and bottled water.

Game Viewing During my stay at Luwi I saw: elephant, hippo, lion, genet, civet, banded mongoose, bushy-tailed mongoose, Thornicroft’s giraffe, warthog, spotted hyena, vervet monkey, bush baby, impala, bushbuck, puku, Nile crocodile, and helmeted terrapin turtle. Birds included: marabou stork, African jacana, yellow-billed stork, white-fronted plover, yellow-billed oxpecker, and gray heron

Activities Luwi offered morning and sunset walks, and early evening drives in open-top all-wheel drive vehicles using powerful flashlights to view nocturnal animals. Companionable lingering around the camp fire and watching game wandering through the undulating high grass while exchanging safari anecdotes were favorite pastimes at camp.

Other Due to close proximity to wild game, children had to be at least 12 years old to visit.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit June 2007

ReviewersArticle and photographs by Josette King

Service Excellent. All the staff members I interacted with were friendly, thoughtful and exceptionally attentive to requests from the guests. I indicated on my first evening at camp that I needed to recharge the spare battery for my camera the next day. Trish Stevenson, the camp manager, appeared at my chalet early the next morning. As there was a good possibility that the sky would be overcast, thereby curtailing the efficiency of the solar panel, she proposed to entrust my battery and charger to a driver going back to the main camp. She assured me my battery would come back fully charged with a returning driver later that afternoon, and it did!

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression Nkwali was located in the Game Management Area immediately across the river from the South Luangwa National Park, on a prime vantage point of the eastern bank of the Luangwa River. Discretely nestled in a grove of soaring ebony trees, the camp’s six guest chalets and bar area offered a spectacular view of the steep far bank of the river and the acacia forest that constituted the boundary of the park. On the back side of the camp, the dining area was built on a low platform overlooking a small lagoon where a variety of game frequently came to drink. Nkwali successfully coupled the casual atmosphere and intimate proximity to wildlife that only a bush camp can offer with the indulgent amenities of the best safari lodges. From a comfortable lounge chair near the bar, I spent a contented afternoon siesta time watching a herd of elephants wading in the shallow waters of the west bank of the river. I then took their cue and went for a refreshing swim in Nkwali’s swimming pool before teatime.

For all its superb isolation, Nkwali was only 45 minutes away from Mfuwe Airport, half of it on a paved road that ran through lively village scenes before turning into the bush close to the camp. Access to the park was either by boat directly from the camp, via a colorful hand-cranked pontoon or across the Mfuwe Bridge10 kilometers away. Game activity was as intense in the Game Management Area as in the park itself. The ten minute drive from the camp to the pontoon routinely took thirty minutes or more as we paused to watch the antics of a family of vervet monkeys, or a sudden domestic argument erupt from a cluster of hippos sunning themselves on the edge of the river.

My guide, Joseph Nfune, was a first rate professional. In addition to being thoroughly knowledgeable in animal behavior and natural history, he was quietly attentive to the wishes of “his” guests. After I casually mentioned my special desire to see a leopard, I was treated on my second morning drive to a lengthy close up viewing of a leopard, then two separate lion sightings for good measure! Locating the leopard took cooperative efforts from Joseph and one of his colleagues who engaged in an extensive radio dialog to direct us to the appropriate location. They were assisted by the terrorized screeches of a troop of baboons who had apparently just lost one of their own to the superb feline.

At Nkwali, I immediately felt like a welcomed guest in the home of a long lost friend. The staff were unfailingly friendly, attentive to every detail but never obtrusive. The hospitality was flawless; the understated luxury of the accommodations was enhanced by the superior quality of service. What a lovely place to begin a safari!

Class Of Accommodation Luxury bush camp

Communications The camp had cellular phone coverage with a GSM 900/1800 compatible international cell phone. The office featured a satellite internet connection, where guests could check e-mail.

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location Nkwali was located a few miles southeast of Mfuwe on Robin Pope’s private land on the east bank of the Luangwa River, in the Game Management Area across the river from the South Luangwa National Park.

Manager Kiri Phiri

Owners Robin and Jo Pope and Molecaten Africa

Power The entire lodge was on the electrical power grid and ran on 220 Volts/50 Hz power . A NW-135C adapter was necessary to use most electrical outlets (the kind used in the U.K.). However, the bathroom featured a universal socket that accommodated European and U.S. plugs as well as the British ones. Obviously intended for electric razors, it was also ideal to recharge camera and other small electronics batteries.

Size Nkwali was a three-acre enclave in the heart of the 110 acres of Robin Pope’s private land. The six guest chalets, the bar and the dinning area were dotted along 150 yards of the one third of a mile river frontage of the property. The remainder of the property was left in its natural state and offered a densely populated wildlife habitat. The camp could accommodate a maximum of 12 guests. It employed a staff of 54 including a game viewing staff of four guides and trackers.

Transportation Mfuwe could be reached by air from Lusaka and Livingstone. Road transfers to and from the airport were arranged by Robin Pope Safaris, who owned and operated the camp.

Year Open-Renovated Originally opened in 1991, Nkwali was the object of meticulous on-going maintenance and enhancements. Although the region had been the site of devastating floods five months before, the property was pristine throughout by the time I visited.

Common Areas The bar and lounge area offered a sweeping view of the river. They were the hub of all common activities. They were located on a platform of local stone under a soaring thatched roof anchored around the trunk of a massive ebony tree. The structure was furnished with groupings of comfortable mahogany armchairs and sofas upholstered in tan canvas, with pillows of local cotton fabrics in shades of blue and ocher. There was a long table on one side, where breakfast and buffet lunches were served. A large book case held a collection of volumes on the local flora, fauna and history. The dinning room was a separate raised platform of local stone, covered with a thick thatched roof. The evening meals were served on a long, family-style table clothed in crisp white linen.

Bathroom The bathroom included twin sinks set in a thick mahogany slab topped by twin mirrors. A flush toilet was modestly tucked behind a half wall, and a shelf stacked with lush cotton bath towels. This area was sheltered by a thatched overhang, while the large circular double shower was open to the sky. Pump bottles of shower gel and shampoo were provided in the shower area, while soap, body and insect repellant lotions stood by the sinks.

Room My chalet (Number One) was steps away from the main building. It included a spacious 240 square foot (22 square meters) sleeping and sitting area with a steep thatched roof under the shade of a mature Natal mahogany. The floor was made of local stone with grass throw mats. The room occupied about half of the chalet; the other half was a spectacular open air bathroom. The décor was elegantly simple and comfortable. The walls were of immaculate white plaster that beautifully offset the dark wood furniture, including free-form storage shelves hanging on opposite sides of the room. The twin beds were covered with bright coral and white throws of local fabric, and separated by a small table. A luggage bench stood at the foot of each bed. This sleeping area was surrounded by a walk-in mosquito net. Two director’s chairs and a coffee table faced the open front wall of the chalet with its panoramic view of the river. At night, a wrought iron screen kept at bay any visiting wildlife. A small desk and chair completed the décor.

Food The food was outstanding, making chef Lamack Zulu a celebrity at the camp. Lamack was a sixteen-year veteran at Nkwali. Starting as kitchen help, he taught and trained himself, and reached his well deserved current position at the head of a team of the four cooks. His hot lemon soufflé was one of the best I have enjoyed anywhere. All the delicious breads, cakes and quiches were baked daily in his kitchen. Many of the vegetables were grown right at the camp (behind an elephant-proof fence), with the remaining fruit and vegetables supplied by local farmers.

Amenities Nkwali amenities and services included all meals and beverages, and daily laundry service. The chalets were supplied with toiletries (shower gel, shampoo and body lotion), insect repellant, bottled water, a flashlight, a wall mounted lock box, two bathrobes and kikois. The later, three foot by five foot light cotton shawls, could be soaked in water before covering yourself with them, to keep cool during the heat of the day.

Swimming Pool Tucked away in a clearing a short five-minute walk from the bar, this 14 by 45 foot pool went from a depth of four to six feet. It could satisfy even dedicated lap swimmers. It was surrounded by two bamboo and thatch changing huts that held ample supplies of towels. With its six comfortable wooden lounge chairs topped by thick canvas pads, the pool area was a lovely place to while away hot midday hours.

Game Viewing Game viewing vehicles usually included no more than four guests. Tea, coffee, soft drinks and cookies were served during the morning drives. During the afternoon drives we stopped for sundowner drinks, appetizers and a scenic view of the sunset. During my stay at Nkwali, I sighted: elephant, hippo, lion, leopard, genet, banded mongoose, bushy-tailed mongoose, civet, Thornicroft’s giraffe, Crawshay’s zebra, warthog, spotted hyena, vervet monkey, yellow baboon, impala, bushbuck, puku, great kudu, waterbuck, Nile crocodile. Birds included: hammerkop, lilac-breasted roller, double banded sand grouse, red-billed hornbill, sacred ibis, African fish eagle, African jacana, spurwinged goose, crested crane, white-fronted bee-eater, little bee eater, yellow-billed stork, white-fronted plover, yellow-billed oxpecker.

Activities Nkwali offered morning and sunset drives in open-top all-wheel drive vehicles, using powerful flashlights after dusk to view nocturnal animals. Morning walks could also be arranged. With constant game activity on the river, the after-lunch siesta time was also a great opportunity for a lounge-chair safari.

Other Because of the proximity to wild game, children had to be at least eight to visit.

Recent Awards And Recognitions Jo Pope was the recipient off the prestigious 2005 U.K. Responsible Tourism Award, best personal contribution category. This award recognizes significant personal contribution to responsible tourism.

In addition to their unwavering, long time support of sound environmental practices, Jo and Robin Pope observed many of the tenets of sustainable development in their organization. Staff were trained and promoted internally: in addition to Chef Lamack Zulu, another notable success was camp manager Kiri Phiri, who worked his way to his current position through 14 years with Robin Pope Safaris. Jo and Robin were also engaged in a carbon sequestration and a long term reforestation program, Reforest Nsefu. As part of the program, the project leaders worked with schools and villages to reforest a local area with trees for domestic use (fire wood, building materials, fruit trees), while protecting old growth forest and offsetting carbon emissions from the Robin Pope Safaris activities.

Jo Pope was also the leading force behind the development and success of the Kawaza School Fund which supported the refurbishing and expansion of four local schools. Additionally, it sponsored 50 children on to secondary school and subsidized teachers’ salaries to allow for a lower student/teacher ratio.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit June 2007

ReviewersArticle and photographs by Josette King

Service Excellent! Every member of the staff was consistently friendly, thoughtful and available to fulfill, or occasionally anticipate, all my needs and wishes. This was reflected in their attention to the smallest details, such as welcoming the return of the game drive vehicle on a cold evening with hot towels instead of the traditional iced ones (I visited in late June, the coldest month of the year, when nights do get chilly).

Would You Stay There Again? Yes