Overall Impression Located in the far northern reaches of the Serengeti National Park, Grumeti Serengeti Tented Camp delivered everything I had imagined a safari in this legendary park to be, and more. Foremost of course was the open grassy plain known to the Masai as Siringitu (“the place where the land goes on forever”) with its omnipresent herds of zebras and white-bearded wildebeests; and lions nonchalantly awaiting dinnertime under the meager shade of an occasional thorn acacia. But a few minutes’ drive from the edge of the endless plain, this intimate luxury camp revealed a more verdant face of the Serengeti. It was nestled into a strip of lush riverine forest on the bank of a permanent oxbow pan of the Grumeti River. Here the rare pied colobus monkeys darted through the treetops, and large pods of hippos noisily claimed the river under the malevolent glare of huge crocodiles.

The camp was designed to make the most of the active wildlife of the river. The makuti (palm frond) covered lounge and dining areas morphed into sprawling decks that reached out to the water. An oversize circular plunge pool overlooked the hippos’ favorite bathing spot. Bright deck furniture complemented the cheerful interior décor for an inviting indoor-outdoor living experience. Barring one evening when a sudden dinnertime thunderstorm dictated otherwise, I enjoyed taking my meals on the deck. My own accommodations, a luxurious tent on a concrete slab under a high makuti canopy, had a comfortably furnished veranda facing the river. I loved to settle there with my early morning cup of tea and observe the rich birdlife around me, and the frequent territorial arguments of the hippos.

But when I think of Grumeti Serengeti Tented Camp, beyond the great game viewing experience and the superb accommodations that are de rigueur for a luxury safari property in this renowned corner of Tanzania, I remember most the whimsical atmosphere of the camp and the enthusiasm of its staff. This rare combination made it very special indeed: a fun place to be. There were bursts of vibrant colors and quirky decorating elements throughout the camp, such as a collection polychrome woodcarvings of bygone bush explorers from pocket size to life-size, gathered in a corner of the lounge and paired with a display of jewel-like Kenyan hand-blown glass pieces. Nods to local artistry popped up in unexpected places. Bright, finely beaded light fixtures recalled the work of Masai women, as did the primary colors and naïve design of wall hangings in the lounge and suite. There was local metalwork everywhere, from the large mirror frame in my bathroom to the intricately cutout tin backdrop of the bar in the center of the common areas. There were so many tongue-in-cheek details scattered about that they invited a treasure hunt. I kept noticing new surprises until the moment of my departure.

As for the staff, they were a well-trained, attentive team, obviously proud of their camp and eager to ensure that I would enjoy every instant of my stay with them. I did. The welcome dance from the assembled staff that greeted me on arrival set the tone. As soon as May Kobero, the camp manager, ensured I was satisfactorily settled in, my personal butler, Stanley, took over. He had a table ready for me under a market umbrella on the deck, and within minutes he appeared from the kitchen bearing a tray laden with a scrumptious three-course lunch of cucumber soup, fresh pasta, warm rosemary bread and a green salad, to be followed by fresh mango sorbet. Later that evening, after a breathtaking sunset drive, my guide, Killian, delivered me to an open area near camp, marked by a circle of glowing oil lamps and a roaring campfire. After a lavish barbecue dinner, the entire team broke into a chorus of traditional African chants. Soon the singing evolved into a dance and an invitation to join in for a celebration of the starlit Serengeti night.

With its cheerful staff, playful atmosphere and intimate luxury setting in a rare riverside location, Grumeti Serengeti Tented Camp was the place for an unforgettable first encounter with this leading safari destination. I will consider it a mandatory stop on any future East African safari.

Camp Manager May Kobero

Children Children over the age of seven could be accommodated by prior arrangement

Class Of Accommodation Luxury safari camp

Communications My GSM 900/1800 compatible international cellular phone service was fully operational at the lodge and intermittently throughout the park.

Connectivity There was WiFi service in the lounge and dining room throughout the day and evening. The connection was reliable, with moderate speed.

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location In the western corridor of the Serengeti National Park in northern Tanzania

Owned-Managed &Beyond Africa, previously known as Conservation Corporation Africa (CC Africa), with headquarters in Johannesburg, South Africa, owned and managed the property. At the time of this writing &Beyond itself is owned by two major shareholders, Capricorn (the Enthoven family, originally from South Africa) and the Getty Family Trust.

Power The camp was powered by diesel generators. Electricity was available from 6 a.m. to midnight. There was a convenient outlet in my room that could be used to charge my camera, phone and computer batteries.

Other Although the camp did not have a dedicated spa facility, there was a licensed masseuse on staff who offered a range of massage options in the guest tents. The camp closes for yearly maintenance from the end of March to the second week in May. &Beyond was voted Africa’s Leading Responsible Tourism Company at the 2010 World Travel Awards, and was honored with the prestigious Africa’s Leading Responsible Tourism Award.

Size The property consisted of 10 guest tents. It could accommodate a maximum of 23 guests and employed a staff of 40, including five guides and rangers. There were four game viewing vehicles.

Year Open-Renovated Originally opened in 1994, the camp was fully renovated in 2007. It receives thorough yearly maintenance and refurbishing.

Lobby And Common Areas Rough pillars of local stone marked the entrance to a partial enclosure that separated the common areas from the bush while keeping them open to the river. To the right of the entrance, the lounge was a makuti-roofed space with its rear and far walls made of copper-color adobe, while the front and near sides were open onto a large deck. The burnished concrete floor was covered with large tribal throw rugs in shades of beige and brown. Contemporary sofas, matching armchairs and hassocks upholstered in lime green canvas with vivid blue and orange toss pillows were grouped around dark carved coffee and end tables. At the far end of the rear wall, a tall chest of drawers held several hurricane glass candleholders and a collection of brightly painted woodcarvings of men dressed in costumes of the colonial era, with larger sculptures standing in the corner. Between the entrance and the chest of drawers, a series of long beaded wall hangings in primary colors was lined against the back wall. Centered on the far sidewall, a rustic shelf held an assortment of mouth-blown glass pieces. On the low adobe ledge separating the lounge from the deck, bright red cushions provided additional seating. Pairs of wooden armchairs were lined around the exterior deck facing the river.

To the left of the main entrance, a second makuti-covered space with a rear wall of rough stones and burnished concrete housed the dining area. A long serving buffet with a mirror chard mosaic front and a metal top occupied the rear wall. Dining tables were square distressed wood tops on roughly welded metal tubing bases. Coordinated metal chairs had high backs with tin inserts and thick seat cushions. On the deck, large market umbrellas shaded square wooden dining tables surrounded by director chairs. Throughout the dining space and lounging decks, seat cushions, director chairs inserts and umbrellas were covered in bright purple canvas. In the center of the common areas, the stand-alone bar stood under an adobe dome held by four rough stone pillars and topped by whimsical metal sculptures. The bar counter, shelves and backdrop were made of sheet metal with cutouts of ethnic shapes.

Bathroom There was a set of storage shelves and clothes hanging rods behind the headboard partition. Along the side wall, a long wood and rope bench served as a luggage rack. On the opposite side of the tent, a freestanding shelf held bright metal boxes made of bottle tops holding insect repellent spray bottles, stationary and other tent necessities. The sink occupied the rear center of the tent. It was a white porcelain basin set into a sheet metal inverted cone bolted to the floor. Next to it, arched tubing supported a large metal tray with bathroom supplies. A rectangular framed within a scalloped metal frame hung above this unconventional vanity. There were sconces with beaded shades on both sides of the mirror. Two doors flanked the vanity. One led to an adobe-walled water closet with flush toilet under a thatched roof, the other opened onto a covered walkway to a walled-in, open-sky shower for al fresco ablutions. In the walkway, built-in shelves held a generous stack of fuchsia bath and hand towels.

Tent My 430 square foot (40 square meter) tent, Number Nine, had a large front veranda overlooking the river. It stood on a burnished concrete base under a peaked makuti roof. The veranda had two lounge chairs with bright purple cushions and two matching director chairs at a round metal dining table. The tent had the usual zippered front entrance and sidewalls with three sets of net-covered windows. In front of the entrance, two contemporary violet canvas slipper chairs with bright red pillows faced each other across a round carved occasional table on a red tribal rug. A king size bed of pale Tanzanian cypress stood in the center of the room under a ceiling fan. The extra tall headboard divided the sleeping area from the bathroom at the rear of the tent. Reading lights with metal curlicue bases and beaded lampshades were attached to the headboard. Bedside tables were tooled metal cubes with glass tops.

Food The cuisine was pan-African with continental touches, every dish delicious and well presented. Breakfast began with a table-side buffet on a tray holding personal size decanters of milk and freshly squeezed orange juice, granola, yoghurt, fresh cut fruit, sliced salami and cheese, and a small loaf of freshly baked bread, followed by a full English breakfast menu cooked to order. Lunch was served at individual tables, each set with assorted meat dishes and salads and freshly baked bread, followed by home-made sorbets or other tempting light desserts. The three-course plated dinner usually started with a scrumptious soup (my favorite was chilled mango soup). It featured two main course choices, followed by a positively sinful dessert. Special dietary requirements could be accommodated by prior arrangement. Vegetables and fruits were purchased from selected local growers who followed chemical-free farming practices.

Amenities Room amenities included carafes of water for drinking and oral hygiene, votive candles, a large electronic safe, golf umbrellas, rubber boots, walking sticks, emergency horn, high-density flashlight, room and body insect repellent spray, assorted stationary, a Serengeti Primer booklet and a “gym in a box” with a yoga mat, jump rope, Pilates elastic rope, and sets of one and two pound free weights. Bathroom amenities included cotton bathrobes, slippers, hair dryer, shower cap, glycerin facial soap, laundry soap, pump bottles of high quality shower gel, shampoo, hair conditioner, body scrub, moisturizer and citronella lotion.

Meals, bottled water, soft drinks and house alcoholic beverages were included, as were daily game viewing activities and daily laundry service. Top brand alcoholic beverages such as vintage wines, French champagnes and luxury whiskies were available for an additional charge.

Facilities There was a dining room, lounge, bar, swimming pool and gift shop.

Gift Shop A small cottage located a few steps from the main public areas carried a limited assortment of chic camp-branded safari wear, as well a few local craft items, mainly wood-carvings, antique trinkets and jewelry.

Pool At the far end of the lounge, a 13 foot (four meter) in diameter plunge pool was set in a deck overlooking the river. It was surrounded by seven lounge chairs with the trademark purple cushions and umbrellas. Peach pool towels were folded at the foot of each chair.

Game Viewing Game drives took place in one of the camp’s custom-designed, canvas-topped, open-sided vehicles. Although there were three tiered rows of seats that could have comfortably accommodated up to six guests, I was fortunate that I never had to share a vehicle during my stay. My guide Killian and ranger Anton were knowledgeable and focused on ensuring that I experienced all that the western corridor of the Serengeti and the Grumeti River had to offer.

Game I sighted included olive baboon, buffalo, bushbuck, Nile crocodile, Kirk’s dik-dik, eland, elephant, Grant’s gazelle, Thomson’s gazelle, giraffe, hippo, spotted hyena, impala, black-backed jackal, lion, colobus monkey, banded mongoose, dwarf mongoose, ostrich, reedbuck, topi, vervet monkey, leopard turtle, warthog, white-bearded wildebeest and zebra. Birds included kori bustard, white-bellied bustard, fan-tailed cisticola, Klaas’s cuckoo, white browed coucal, fork tailed drongo, battelier eagle, tawny eagle, grey-backed fiscal, dark chanting goshawk, hammerkop, gray heron, African crested hoopoe, grey hornbill, common kestrel, grey lourie, marsh harrier, African Scops owl, lilac-breasted roller, secretary bird, superb starling, Ruppell’s long tailed starling, Abdim’s stork, lappet-faced vulture, white-headed buffalo weaver and golden weaver.

Activities In addition to twice-daily game drives and game viewing on the river from the common area decks or my private veranda, a whole day excursion could be arranged within the park, or outside to Lake Victoria, Africa’s largest lake, located 31 miles (50 kilometers) west of the camp.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Visit February 2011

Reviewers Article and photos by Josette King

Service My tent was serviced twice daily. My personal butler was pleasant, prompt and thoughtful. Every member of the staff was friendly and efficient. My guide was knowledgeable and attentive.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression When I think of Sabora I remember chilly mornings followed by hot days, smiling and friendly staff, delicious and well served food, exclusive and rewarding game viewing, a homey informal ambiance and a magnificent tent experience. I reminisce about a perfect day spent in the Tanzania plains with Aloyce, our indefatigable, affable and competent local guide, viewing cheetah in the morning and tree climbing lions in the afternoon; followed by a romantic gourmet candlelit dinner for two accompanied by brutally cold Krug champagne.

I remember the warm hospitality of camp managers “G” and “D,” the staff’s can-do attitude, South African trained Sous Chef Camilla Weddell‘s fine tuned cuisine and local Pastry Chef Martina Mahele’s scrumptious baked goodies beautifully served on crystal, silver and china service. I remember fun game drives in the plains, soft sunrises and picture perfect East African sunsets dimming from piercing yellow to purple, pink and magenta. I remember relaxing and therapeutic deep tissue massages in the Sabora spa tent after a satisfying lunch.

Our spacious and beautifully appointed tent was remarkable. It featured sitting, sleeping and bathroom areas and had access to a shared lounge tent. Salient comforts included an air conditioner, large bed, desk, Persian rugs, an electronic safe, 24-hour generator facilities providing lights and electricity around the clock, indoor bath and outdoor shower options, and elegantly scented toiletries.

The complimentary Wi-Fi high speed Internet and complimentary direct dial phone calls were just further proof of the thoughtfulness and attention to detail that characterized the camp and made fans out of us. Our stay at Sabora was splendid.

Beyond the luxury tented camp features, we appreciated the Reserve’s environmental policies. Grumeti Reserves converted hunting land into a game viewing concession neighboring the world famous Serengeti National Park, while reversing poaching practices and maintaining world heritage migration lands in good repair. Sabora offered winning combination of sustainable and exclusive game viewing with luxury tented accommodations.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury bush tents

Handicapped Access No

Internet Connectivity There was complimentary Wi-Fi throughout camp 24 hours a day (54Mbps).

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location In the Grumeti Reserves of the western corridor of the Serengeti bordering the Serengeti National Park in Tanzania. Musoma is the nearest village.

Managed Singita Property Management

Owned Grumeti Fund (Paul Tudor Jones)

Property Managers Gerhard and Delanie Wiehahn, “G” and “D” for short, managed the camp. A trained guide, Gerhard had eight years of bush experience in South Africa. Prior to working at Sabora he worked at Chapungu Tented Camp, N’Kaya Lodge in Thornybush and Simbabili Game Lodge. He received certificates from the Field Guide Association of Southern Africa, South Africa Department of Environmental Affairs and Tourism, and South Africa Tourism Hospitality and Education Authority.

Size There were 6 tents on a 26 acre concession. Maximum occupancy was 14 with a staff compliment of 26. Additional staff members, including guides and spa therapists, were based at the Sasakwa Lodge, Sabora’s sister property.

Year Opened-Renovated The camp was opened to the public July 2005. A little weathered around the edges, the camp was originally established as a mobile tented camp for the owner’s use and over time was converted for guest use. A structural renovation including tent renewal, was scheduled immediately following our departure.

Lobby And Common Areas Sabora, originally designed as a temporary camp for private use, was styled to emulate a 1920s British Colonial Campaign camp. Antiques and antique replicas enhanced the classic camp setting.

Bathroom A tent wall divided the sleeping area from the roomy and deluxe tent bathroom. To the right of the entrance there was hanging space and shelves, a vanity area and electronic safe. To the left there were twin sinks on a wood counter top. A claw foot style plastic tub was adjacent to the tent window. A toilet sat across from the tub. Just outside the tent there was an outdoor shower within an enclosure. It was fun to look at the plains while showering or bathing in the afternoon light. There was ample hot and cold water available around the clock.

Room Our 60 square meter luxury tent (number 3) faced the Serengeti plains. It was easy to identify our tent thanks to a sign at the entrance with our names. It had high ceilings eliminating the slightly claustrophobic feel in traditional small camping tents. After a three step climb, we entered the spacious tent by unzipping a screen “door” that led to a sitting area with two suede and wood chairs and adjacent tables facing a rear deck.

The wood floor of the tent was covered with khaki wall to wall carpeting. Individual Persian rugs were scattered throughout the room and bathroom enhancing the tent’s homey style. A four poster queen bed with night tables and lamps occupied the next section of the tent. A remote controlled air conditioning unit above the bed and an upright fan helped cool the room during the blistering hot days (30 Celsius during our visit) while thick duvet covers kept us warm at night when the temperatures plummeted (14 Celsius during our visit).

The side and front sections of the tent were open flaps allowing in cooling breezes and sunlight. Amber color curtains were drawn at night for privacy and to insulate the tent. A corner writing desk and cushioned chair faced the plains inviting contemplation and offering the possibility of an animal sighting.

The rear area of the tent had wooden decking and was populated by two wood and wicker armchairs on one side and two director’s chairs and a table on the other. The deck continued to an adjacent Sitting Tent next door we shared with another tent on the opposite side of the Sitting Tent.

Thanks to nearly floor length see through screens we could observe the Grumeti plains and the hills beyond them from every corner of the interior. The tent design emphasized the sights and sounds of the bush while providing an insect free comfortable area to lounge in between meals, game drives and other leisure activities.

Meals Sous chef Camilla Weddell and her assistants, including local pastry chef Martina Mahele, enhanced our stay with their culinary creations. We usually had a to-go breakfast in the bush during a mid morning break. This consisted of salmon, egg and bacon, or cheese and bacon sandwiches, fruit juice, apples and oranges and freshly baked muffins. Lunch was buffet style with soup, salads, cooked cold dishes and dessert. In the evening, dinner was a plated affaire. We ordered from a printed menu offering two starter options, three main course options and two desserts.

During our stay we had pan fried Halloumi with char grilled vegetables and rosemary pesto (a favorite); Beef fillet with potato croquette, oven roast vegetables and master jus; Butternut and feta stuffed cannelloni baked in homemade tomato sauce and mozzarella gratin (a favorite); Roast Pumpkin Soup; Balsamic seared chicken livers with tomato chutney and toasted ciabatta, Orange and cardamom crusted lamb loin with garlic potato crème, seasonal vegetables and anise jus; and Hot ginger plums with cinnamon cream and nut brittle (a favorite). We also had Potato and Leek Soup; Smoked salmon and cream cheese terinne with pesto vinaigrette; Pan seared beef fillet with parmesan risotto seasonal vegetables and red wine jus; Wild mushroom risotto with truffle oil vinaigrette and herbed salad; and Caramel filled pancakes with banana ice cream and maple syrup (a favorite).

Chef Weddell describes Sabora cuisine as “contemporary with an East African twist; dependant on what is available locally and then influences from the surrounding regions, namely, Zanzibar, North Africa, South Africa and of course from this country, Tanzania.” She is a graduate from a three-year program at the Silwood Kitchen School of Cookery in Cape Town, South Africa. Prior to working at Sabora she worked at the Vineyard Hotel, Silwood Kitchens Catering Department, Blues Restaurant, Savoy Cabbage Restaurant and in the United Kingdom.

Amenities All meals, soft drinks, snacks, game viewing activities and complimentary laundry service were included in the nightly rate.

Facilities The heart of the camp was the central dining and bar tented deck. Nearby there was a pool area and Jacuzzi. Next to our tent there was a Sitting Tent we shared with the occupants of a neighboring tent. There were also two adjacent spa tents, a colonial trading store, and a tennis court built with discarded termite mound soil. It took the staff three months to rebuild the tennis courts after the annual rainy season closure.

Pool There was a 1.5 meters deep plunge pool and adjacent Jacuzzi. Several cushioned lounge chairs with shade providing umbrellas populated the area by the pool deck.

Spa Anne provided hour long strong deep tissue massages with detoxifying Dermatologica oil in the Spa tent. We scheduled the massages one day in advance to allow our masseuse time to drive from the Singita Grumeti Spa where she was based.

Game Viewing In the mornings we set out in a private vehicle with our guide Aloyce Moshi between 6:30 am and 7 am, after a spot of tea or coffee and a biscuit, to explore the plains. We returned around 11 or noon. A buffet lunch was served shortly after our return. In the afternoons we gathered for yummy treats and tea at 4 pm, departing for the plains when the temperatures cooled, around 4:30 pm or 5 pm, and returned between 7 pm and 8 pm. Thanks to the limited number of vehicles, off road driving was allowed for Big Five and special sightings.

What we enjoyed most and appreciated best at the Grumeti Reserves was the exclusive game viewing opportunities. Because the only others game viewing on the property were fellow guests, our game viewing was expansive and exclusive. Although our open sided Toyota Land Cruiser could accommodate 10 guests and a guide, we were wonderfully alone with our guide on all our drives. This allowed us ample flexibility especially when viewing birds and animals and deciding departure times.

The area we visited has 500 species of birds (including many endemic species and a high concentration of raptors), 30 species of herbivores and 24 species of large carnivores. Although the animals were shy (remnants perhaps of the days not too long ago when the area was dedicated to hunting), making it difficult to approach or enjoy extended viewings we were fortunate to see large animal groupings and a number of animals we had never seen before.

Grumeti Reserves forms part of the world renowned great migratory route, along which more than a million wildebeest, 300,000 zebras and 500,000 Thompson’s gazelle complete a 480 kilometer (300 mile) journey each year in search of fresh grazing land. The Great Migration traditionally moves through Grumeti Reserves between June and August. The reserve is home to varying habitats including open plains, rugged rocky outcrops, woodland and riverine forests. In the dry season, after the great herds have departed for greener pastures, the Grumeti River offers life-sustaining water, which ensures spectacular wildlife all year round. This meant we were able to enjoy quality game viewing even though the migration would only arrive several months after our departure.

During our visit we saw: plain zebra, Masaai giraffe, topi or tsessebe (fastest antelope), spotted hyena, scrub hare, banded mongoose, wildebeest, Grant’s gazelle, Thompson’s gazelle, silverbacked jackal, bat eared fox, cheetah with two cubs, eland (largest antelope), lions on tree (2 males and one female), four female lions and one adolescent male, baboons, and male lion.

Birds: Crested francolin, ostrich (fastest flightless bird reaching speeds of up to 35 kph), lizard buzzard, fork tailed drongo, helmeted guinea fowl, Isabelline wheatear, gray flycatcher, Rufus napped lark, grey heron, superb starling, two banded courser, green necked dove, harlequin quail, Rufus tailed weaver, coqui francolin, Fischer’s sparrow lark, pallid harrier, black faced sandgrouse, wattled starling, northern white crowned shrike, lesser kestrel, kori bustard, moaning dove, striped kingfisher, great spotted cuckoo, Fischer’s lovebirds, dark chanting goshawk, pintailed whydah, tawny eagle, grey crowned crane, white browed coucal, white headed buffalo weaver, white bellied bustard, lappet faced vulture, Diederik cuckoo, white stork, white headed vulture, lilac breasted roller, white winged widowbird, African swift, European bee eater, yellow throated longclaw, bateleur, secretary bird, D’Arnoud’s barbet, hadida ibis, hammerkop, grey breasted spur fowl, black chested snake eagle, zitting cisticola, rosy breasted longclaw, fan tailed widowbird, black coucal, slate colored boubou, Ruppell’s long tailed starling, Nubian woodpecker, brubru, griffon vulture, grey kestrel, marabou stork, white backed vulture, corn crake, grey social weaver, Abyssinian scimitar bill, pygmy falcon (smallest raptor), grey hornbill, and yellow winged widowbird.

During the heat of the day, swarms of tsetse flies and buffalo tsetse files (bigger than their more famous cousins) would hitch a ride on our vehicle and once on board bite us. Because there was no effective repellent more than once we had to combat a new batch of insistent tsetse flies. Although we lost track of the number of insect bites we had, we were relieved to hear the tsetse flies didn’t carry sleeping sickness.

Curio Shop A handful of clothes, souvenirs and arts and craft items were for sale in the spa tent.

Other Families with children 12 and older were welcome. A private booking of the whole camp was necessary for younger children.

Water for the camp was supplied by a nearby bore hole. The water was treated with reverse osmosis techniques making the tap water potable. There was always bottled water in our tent and at meal times.

There was an environmentally sensitive successful tsetse fly control program within the camp. Outside the borders of the camp there were lots of tsetse flies but within the property the only tsetse flies we encountered were the ones from incoming game viewing vehicles.

At night we were escorted to and from our tents by designated Askari security staff who patrolled the camp at night. Each security staff member was assigned to one or two tents, depending on the size of the groups. As soon as we unzipped our tent flap our Askari escort would approach us with a flashlight and walk us to the dining tent. On our return from dinner he would walk us back. In addition to the Askari, the Grumeti Reserves were closely monitored by unseen anti-poaching staff.

The property air strip was 1.6 kilometers (1 mile) long, made on a compacted, all weather gravel surface. Although it was never an issue during our stay, it was good to know airstrip lighting allows for night time evacuations. There was a sentry on site around the clock. Next to the air strip there was a hosted meet and greet facility with bathroom, lounge area, luggage storage and refreshments. It was an hour’s drive to Sabora from the airstrip.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit February 2007

ReviewersArticle by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our tent was serviced twice daily, in the early morning and for turn down service in the evening.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression Named Sasakwa for a local chief who used to live on the hill on which the lodge is located, the stately family friendly property offered many advantages for luxury oriented game viewing enthusiasts. In spite of its remote location in the Western Corridor of the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem, bordering the Serengeti National Park in northern Tanzania, Sasakwa offered guests a level of luxury and many creature comforts other properties only dream of having. Sometimes small touches say as much as the widely advertised features. We were impressed with the fresh roses in our cottage, fresh flowers throughout the property and freshly baked butter welcome cookies in our well stocked minibar.

We enjoyed our stay at Sasakwa. The lodge was elegant without being stuffy, classy, private, and with personalized service. Staff were attentive and well trained with a positive guest centered attitude. It was luxury and comfort oriented, including extra amenities like high speed connectivity, easy to use long distance phone line, a safari library with a large DVD collection, a gourmet orientation and a plethora of activity options beyond the exclusive game viewing it was famous for.

We felt inspired by the outstanding facilities and stunning views of the plains. If the common areas of the lodge were handsome and inviting, our cottage was a cocoon of comfort and privacy. There we could enjoy the plains facing terrace, watch playful monkeys, take a dip in our heated plunge pool, enjoy a spa treatment, share a drink in our living area, surf the Internet or simply have a bath.

Beyond the luxury features, we appreciated the Reserve’s environmental policies. Grumeti Reserves converted hunting land into a game viewing concession neighboring the world famous Serengeti National Park. They had reversed poaching practices and recruited some of the offenders into an anti-poaching patrol that helped maintain the land, benefiting visitors and locals alike for generations to come. Sasakwa had a winning combination of sustainable and exclusive game viewing with luxury accommodations and varied activity options.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury lodge

Guest Relations Michelle Hutt

Handicapped Access One of the cottages near the main area was handicapped compatible and without steps. Advance notice was necessary to book handicapped friendly accommodations.

Internet Connectivity There was complimentary Wi-Fi 24 hours a day via a satellite link at 100 mbps. It was possible to use the wireless connection or plug in directly. There was also a guest computer in the library.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location In the Serengeti in Tanzania

Managed Singita Management Company

Owned Grumeti Fund (Paul Tudor Jones)

Property Manager Russel Hastings

Size There were 7 cottages (three one bedroom cottages, two two bedroom cottages, one three bedroom cottage and one four bedroom cottage) on a 340,000 acre concession. Maximum occupancy was 28 with a staff compliment of 90 employees including guides and spa staff which were shared with sister properties Sabora and Faru Faru.

Year Opened-Renovated The lodge opened in 2005

Lobby And Common Areas The lodge was initially designed for a wealthy family’s private use. The interior decor was by Cecile and Boyd. There was art across the lodge and cottages. For example, the striking art deco mirror in the hall, Mirroir Aure Boussois, was designed by Paul Jouvre and executed by Gaetan Jeannin in 1930. There were works by David Sheperd, elephant hunter Walter Bell, Peter Beard, John Banovich, Kenyan Louise Hill, Zimbabweans Hugo Fircks and Lindsay Scott, father and son sculptors Terry and Dennis Mathews, Anthony Gibbs, and silversmith Patrick Mavros.

Bathroom Next to the entrance there was a guest half bathroom. A full bathroom was located beyond the bedroom, facing the plains. It included twin sinks on an amber color granite counter, a wood framed oval mirror, a water closet with a bidet, shower and separate plastic claw foot bathtub. The floor in the shower and bathtub area was of large pale non-slip tile. Large windows framed the shower and bath area and provided a fine view of the plains and adjacent garden.

On the day of our arrival there was a plumbing problem and no water was available. By the following morning the issue was resolved. There was ample hot and cold water.

Room Our sunlit and air conditioned one bedroom cottage suite (Roosevelt’s Cottage – number 3) was spacious (1,808 feet including the verandah) and beautifully appointed with comfortable period style furniture and antiques. In the entrance foyer there was a mini refrigerator with drinks and biscotti and a convenient half bathroom.

Beyond the foyer, there was a living area with a fireplace. For furniture there was an elaborate mirror above the mantle, a wood cabinet, a small desk, a white love seat, two armchairs, a coffee table, a zebra skin bench, and a large crystal chandelier. We reached the bedroom through a door on the right. A comfortable king bed with a duvet and an extra blanket was the centerpiece of the room. There was also a cushy white armchair, a desk, vanity and second fireplace. There was a vanity area with large mirror and seat and a walk in closet in the rear of the bedroom.

On the bed, there were hypo-allergenic goose down pillows and goose down duvets, with two additional pillows stored in the wardrobe. Foam pillows and non-down duvets were available on request.

Heavy curtains kept the room insulated and allowed us to sleep late when we weren’t on an early morning safari. The interior floors, made of prized mninga wood, were smooth against our bare feet with area rug accents in the bedroom and living room.

French doors in both rooms led to a private plains facing deck with two cushioned lounge chairs, a Swarovski looking glass and a heated stone plunge pool which was our favorite area to spend time during the day.

Meals Breakfast was on the go on game drive mornings. Otherwise breakfast and lunch were served buffet style on the plains facing terrace. Dinner was plated with private tables scattered about the common areas of the lodge. For lunch on our arrival we selected from the three a la carte options. We enjoyed vegetable curry, tomato and aubergine (eggplant) sautee, chicken with couscous, vegetable curry and fruit pavlovas. For our candlelit dinner we ordered vegetable sushi, lemongrass and coconut milk soup appetizers; for main courses we had pork with mashed potatoes and broccoli and for dessert we had chocolate truffle cake and a cheese platter.

Amenities All game viewing drives, meals, house wines, and game viewing snacks were included in the nightly rate. There was complimentary port and sherry in crystal decanters in our cottage as well as biscotti and fresh baked shortbread. There was a personal bar with a mini refrigerator in our suite. Internet connectivity and long distance calls were included as well. There was Narcissus Home Spray from The White Company. Penhaligon’s Quercus line toiletries included body lotion, shampoo, conditioner, body gel, cologne, sewing kit, shaving kit, shower cap, and shoe buffer. There were also cosmetic cotton swabs and ear swabs in crystal containers. Linen bathrobes hung in the closet for our use at the Lodge.

There was a voltage converter and electronic safe in the closet. There was a flashlight, 1,600 watt hair dryer, direct dial phone and alarm clock in the room. There was an excellent Swarovski spotting scope on the verandah.

There was a 40 inch television in the game room, a large collection of DVDs and a more modest selection of CD titles. There were board games including scrabble, backgammon, and cards in the Game Room.

Our game viewing vehicle had one extra pair of excellent Swarovski binoculars which we shared with other guests. There was insect repellent spray and several kinds Dermalogica sun block products..

Facilities There was a swimming pool, bar, billiard room, library, game room, and tea room. There was a three room 3,000 square foot spa with a steam room, curio shop, two tennis courts, and an equestrian center. There was also an archery pavilion, yoga room, mountain biking and running track, and croquet set up on the lawn.

Pool There was a full size infinity edge swimming pool in the main area of the lodge (3 feet deep in shallow end and 5 feet 4 inches in the deep end). In our suite, there was a heated five foot deep private plunge pool with a plains facing infinity edge in our cottage. We particularly enjoyed the privacy and convenience of our suite front pool, especially when the main pool was occupied by children.

Spa We had four excellent spa treatments at the lodge. See Sasakwa Lodge and Sabora Tented Plains Camp spa article for details.

Game Viewing What we enjoyed most and appreciated best at the Grumeti Reserves was the exclusive game viewing opportunities. Because the only people game viewing on the property were fellow guests, our game viewing was expansive and exclusive. Although our open sided Toyota Land Cruiser could accommodate 10 guests and a guide, at Sasakwa game viewing vehicles usually went out with a maximum of four guests or two parties per vehicle. We were fortunate to have our vehicle to ourselves during half of our drives at Sasakwa. During the remaining half we shared the vehicle with a delightful South African couple. A maximum of three vehicles was allowed per sighting ensuring relaxed experiences for animals and guests alike.

In the mornings we set out in a vehicle with our guide Aloyce Moshi between 6 am and 6:15 am. During the drive we enjoyed breakfast on the go, returning to the lodge around 11 or noon. In the afternoons, we gathered for yummy treats and tea at 5 pm before our drive and returned around 8 pm. In the evening we were able to spotlight night animals. Our guide covered the spotlight with a red filter to minimize the impact of the light on the animals.

Game drive vehicles carried a hot and cold box, offering a choice of water, minerals, fruit juice, beer, spirits and hot drinks, as well as snacks. Our guide set up a “table” on the front of the vehicle with a tablecloth and a lantern where we gathered for bush breakfasts and evening sundowners.

The area we visited has 500 species of birds (including many endemic species and a high concentration of raptors), 30 species of herbivores and 24 species of large carnivores. Although the animals were shy (remnants perhaps of the days not too long ago when the area was dedicated to hunting), making it difficult to approach or enjoy extended viewings we saw many animals including large herds and were fortunate to see a number of animals we had never seen before.

Grumeti Reserves forms part of the world renowned great migratory route, along which more than a million wildebeest, 300,000 zebras and 500,000 Thompson’s gazelle complete a 480 kilometer (300 mile) journey each year in search of fresh grazing land. The Great Migration traditionally moves through Grumeti Reserves between June and August. The reserve is home to varying habitats including open plains, rugged rocky outcrops, woodland and riverine forests. In the dry season, after the great herds have departed for greener pastures, the Grumeti River offers life-sustaining water, which ensures spectacular wildlife all year round. This meant we were able to enjoy quality game viewing even though the migration would only arrive several months after our departure.

During the heat of the day swarms of tsetse flies and buffalo tsetse files (bigger than their more famous cousins) would hitch a ride on our vehicle and once on board bite us. Because there was no effective repellent more than once we had to combat a new batch of insistent tsetse flies. Although we lost track of the number of insect bites we had, we were relieved to hear the tsetse flies didn’t carry any sleeping sickness.

During our visit we saw: Mammals: Bushbaby (three good sightings), African scrub hare, cheetah (pregnant), elephant, impala, black backed jackal, giraffe, topi, dik dik, zebra, warthogs, bushbuck, bohor reedbuck, Defassa waterbuck, savanna baboons, spotted hyena, buffalo and lions mating.

Birds: von der decken’s hornbill, African cuckoo, fork tailed drongo, pintailed whydah, Ruppell’s long tailed starling, grey hornbill, lilac breasted roller, flappet lark, yellow-vented bulbul, white headed buffalo weaver, dark chanting goshawk, Abdim’s stork, gray heron, village or black headed weaver, waxbill, gray crowned crane, African Scops owl, Jacobin cuckoo, grey lourie, grey crested helmet shrike, white browed scrub robin, plain backed pipit, common kestrel, superb starling, African crested hoopoe, rufus necked lark, fan tailed cisticola, gray crowned crane, harlequin quail, marsh harrier, secretary bird, hooded vulture, white bellied bustard, African eagle owl, night jar, hammer kop, tawny eagle, lappet faced vulture, crested francolin, white stork, corn crake, brown parrot, white breasted bulbul, white browed coucal, western banded snake eagle,

Activities In addition to game viewing, guests could play tennis in two types of courts; work out at the fitness center; have spa treatments; take a dip in their private plunge pool or swim in the lodge pool; play billiards on a 100-year old table; play board games or badminton; visit the archery range; mountain bike; go horseback riding; watch DVDs listen to music or read.

Other Children 10 and older were welcome. During our stay there were eight children at the lodge. There was electricity around the clock.

In case we forgot we were in the bush, a water line broke and we were without water for the better part of a day. The staff, inconvenienced themselves, carried on with meals and activities almost seamlessly. Working nonstop, somehow the repair crew found the damage under the driveway and restored water to Sasakwa just as the lodge became fully booked.

The property air strip was 1.6 kilometers (1 mile) long, made on a compacted, all weather gravel surface. Although it was never an issue during our stay, it was good to know airstrip lighting allows for night time evacuations. There was a sentry on site around the clock. Next to the air strip there was a hosted meet and greet shaded facility with bathroom, lounge area, luggage storage and refreshments. It was a 10 minute game drive to Sasakwa Lodge.

Being close to the equator and with an altitude of 1,400 meters (4,600 feet), the temperature in the area is described as relatively consistent with midday temperatures ranging from hot at 26° to 31° Celsius (78° to 88° Fahrenheit), with overnight temperatures dropping, on average, to a comfortable 10° to 15° Celsius (50° to 59° Fahrenheit). There was always a pleasant cooling bridge at the lodge.

Sasakwa was a member of Relais and Chateaux. The property received the Travel & leisure 2006 Global Vision Award for recognition of cultural and ecological support.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit February 2007

ReviewersArticle by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our cottage was serviced twice daily. It was cleaned in the morning and there was turn down service at night. Staff members were pleasant, polite, attentive, helpful and professional.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression It was marvelous to be in the Grumeti Reserves in the famous Serengeti, miles from anywhere, and enjoy a new and handsome, well appointed world class spa offering on site and in suite treatment options at the Sasakwa Lodge and nearby Sabora Plains Tented Camp. We enjoyed excellent deep tissue massages, a facial and a couple’s treatment that left us walking on air.

Two weeks of twice daily game viewing drives, several international flights, and multiple bush plane flights had left our muscles stiff and sore. Due to tight scheduling and bush travel, the spa at Sabora was the first opportunity we had for spa treatments in 10 days of travel. The first order of business as soon as we arrived at Sabora and discovered we could book spa treatments was to schedule massages for each of us.

Anne, our masseuse, drove from the Sasakwa Lodge to the Sabora two room tented spa where she performed the massages in the early afternoon. They did us a world of good. Anne’s strong hands bore deep into our muscles kneading out aches and pains, helping us relax so we could continue enjoying our daily game viewing excursions which required hours of driving in the plains spotting for game. The tented spa, two steps from our tent, was filled with the background whisperings of the bush. It was clean and well equipped with massage tables and spa products a plenty.

Once we arrived at Sasakwa Lodge we scheduled one more deep tissue massage. Although I longed to spend a whole day at the spa indulging in another massage, as well as manicure, pedicure, and hydrotherapy treatments, my face was crying for attention and TLC so I requested a facial. Tansy Glanz, the spa manager and therapist who did my facial, obviously enjoys facial work. She was professional, polite, helpful and knowledgeable. I appreciate that she explained every step of the customized Dermalogica facial.

The afternoon before our departure, we had a couple’s scalp massage and reflexology combo, recommended by Tansy, in the comfort of our suite verandah. What a vacation topper! In addition to simultaneous 90-minute professional quality treatments in the privacy of our suite we basked in the Serengeti Plains view reaching onto the horizon.

We liked the Sasakwa spa’s stylish and immaculately clean facilities and treatment options as well as the massages at Sabora’s tented spa. Comfortable and well equipped treatment rooms, quality products and treatments by skilled therapist made the spas appealing. We look forward to a return visit to Sasakwa and Sabora and during that time plan to take advantage of the spa treatments. As we reminisce about our Tanzania adventure, we wish every place we visited had such good treatments and striking Serengeti view.

Handicapped Access Many treatments were available in the guest rooms. Although Sabora was not handicapped friendly, one of the suites at Sasakwa could accommodate wheelchairs.

Location The main spa was at Sasakwa Lodge. Sabora Tented Camp had a smaller two room tented facility offering most of the treatment options except hydrotherapy and hot stone massages.

Number Of Staff There were five therapists, two management staff members and three Tanzanian therapists shared by the two spa facilities.

Owned and managed When we visited the spas were owned by Singita Grumeti Reserves

Size The 3,000 square foot spa at Sasakwa had three treatment rooms. The Sabora spa occupied two tents.

Spa Manager Tansy Glanz studied at the Durban Technical Institute in South Africa. Relief spa manager Michelle Hutt studied at the Stellenbosch based Isa Carstens Academy also in South Africa.

Special Training Senior spa staff conducted extensive training with the local therapists in areas of massage therapies, manicures, pedicures, spa body treatments and skin care.  Staff therapists completed Dermalogica training provided by an international trainer. Yearly training is undertaken by an international trainer on site.

Treatment Rooms Sasakwa had a facial therapy room, a body therapy room with adjoining hydrotherapy tub and a relaxation room with steam. This suite was also available for couple’s treatments. Each treatment room was about 4 meters x 3 meters in size.

Sabora had two treatment rooms, one for facial therapy and one for body treatments with an outdoor shower facility. Most treatments, except hydrotherapy and hot stone massages, were available in the comfort of the guest’s cottage, suite or tent at each location.

Year Opened-Renovated The spa was opened in 2005.

Common Areas The Sasakwa Spa was furnished with French inspired, country style and formal, antiques. Windows were draped in hand embroidered “crewel” work stylized floral pattern in yellow blue and rust. Lounge and wingback chairs, slip covered in thick white cotton, sat on silk Persian rugs. Decorative touches included Venetian mirrors and simple chandeliers designed to emulate an “elegant, cool, pale homely” ambiance.

The Sabora Spa was designed to remind visitors of a 1920’s African safari tent. Emphasis was on the sounds and sights of the African bush, penetrating and surrounding the tent. Campaign antique furniture dressed the rooms, while the floors were lined in overlapping Persian rugs in rich reds, Bedouin style. Decorative touches included brass chandeliers, candle light lanterns and cool white damask linen. Tribal accessories were included for contrast and to add local character.

Amenities Guests were invited to use linen bath robes in the spa (identical to the ones in the guest cottages). All spa amenities were Dermalogica including Body Conditioning Wash, Body Hydrating Cream, Shine Therapy Shampoo and Silk Finish Conditioner (these were different to the Penhaligon products provided in the guest cottages).

Facilities There was a steam room in the couple’s treatment room, full size swimming pool (1.7 meters deep and heated to 22 degrees Celsius), Jacuzzi plunge pool (heated to 34 degrees Celsius) and a fitness center at Sasakwa Lodge. The fitness center was outfitted with Life Fitness equipment (two treadmills, two elliptical machines, and two bicycles), a full set of weights and stretch mats and a large plasma screen television. These facilities were available for Sabora guests when Sasakwa was not booked exclusively.

Lockers And Bathrooms The Sasakwa Spa had two lock up change room facilities with shower and toilet. The Sabora Spa had one.

Other All treatments were charged at $100 per hour or part thereof (i.e. 30 minutes for $50 and each 15 minute increment cost $25). This allowed guests to decide which treatments to request and for how long instead of paying a set price per treatment. It was also possible to request two treatments during the same time, as we did with the couple’s treatment, if the therapists were available.

Mornings were the best time to book treatments because most of the guests were out on game drives and the spa was quiet.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review February 2007

Number Of Treatments We enjoyed four treatments at Sasakwa Lodge and two treatments at Sabora Tented Camp

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Would You Return? Yes

Treatments Experienced We each had hour long Deep Tissue massages during our stay at Sabora. These were performed by Anne in the Sabora Spa tent, a stone’s throw away from our tent. At Sasakwa we had a one Deep Tissue massage and a 90-minute Dermalogica Facial at the spa. We also had a 90-minute couple’s Reflexology and Sedating Scalp Treatment on our cottage terrace. Darlene Paschal and Anne Catherine Mburu were the therapists for the massages and Spa Manager Tansy Glanz performed the late afternoon facial.

The first step in the reflexology was a Foot Filing to remove rough dry skin from the heels and balls of the feet. Anne and Darlene rubbed Hydro Active Mineral Salts, a Dermalogica product that contains mineral salts and seaweed to gently exfoliate surface dead skin cells, over the feet. Papain (Papaya) and Bromelain (Pineapple) enzymes were included to dissolve away dulling debris and leave the skin feeling soft and smooth. Sandalwood, lavender, orange and clary sage essential oils were meant to “condition, purify and revitalize the skin.”

The therapists used Toxin Relief Oil from the Dermalogica Essential Relief Oils during the massage sessions.  The reflexology treatment was performed with deep finger and thumb pressure over the entire foot. The idea was to relieve discomfort in areas of imbalance or toxin build up. As with deep tissue treatments, we often find the best ones are rough riding during the treatment but with blissful after effects. 

The Sedating Scalp Massage was a gentle and soothing pressure point massage of the scalp and face, designed to relax, drain toxins through the use of lymph drainage movements, and increase micro-circulation. It was recommended for the relief of sinusitis and headaches.  As part of the massage the therapists used Dermalogica products, to cleanse and exfoliate the face and neck, removing debris, sebum and dead skin cells.

The therapists applied a blend of essential oils (lavender, sandalwood, eucalyptus, and cypress) in a blend of carrier oils (hazelnut, avocado and wheatgerm) to act as a massage medium, and promote additional essential oil benefits.

The facial began, after I filled out a lengthy Dermalogica questionnaire, with a PreCleansing to  gently liquefy sebum (oil) and oil based debris from the skin’s surface in preparation for the deep cleanser that followed. The pre-cleanser contained kukui nut, borage seed, rice bran, light weight olive and apricot kernel oils.

Next, Tansy applied a Special Cleansing Gel mixed with Purifying Botanical Mixer to customize the treatment, for a thorough purifying deep cleanse. She followed with a Dermalogica Face Mapping Skin Analysis, a skin analysis method that divides the face into 14 zones, “to locate, recognize and determine the skin’s needs.” She recorded her findings on a consultation card and Face Mapping Sheet which she shared with me at the conclusion of the facial. After that she used a Daily Microfoliant with a “skin brightening complex of botanical ingredients to lighten and brighten the skin,” and enzymes, rice and rice bran extracts to dissolve and remove dead skins cells and smooth skin. She applied it in conjunction with a facial steamer.

Then there was the extraction, removal of comedones (blackheads) and milia (whiteheads), under a magnifying lamp. After two weeks of twice daily game viewing drives my face was grateful for the cleansing.  She then wiped my faced with a Post Extraction gel to disinfect and calm the irritated skin.

Next she gave me a Galvanic Treatment – O2 Uptake Serum and a Skin Hydrating Masque. The idea was for the galvanic current to stimulate my skin to absorb the serum into the deep layers. The use of this particular serum was meant to increase oxygen levels in the skin, increase the micro-circulation and boost hydration levels.

Tansy did a pressure point massage with Clearing Additive, a blend of essential oils (ylang ylang, lemongrass, juniper, rosewood and sandalwood) in hazelnut, avocado and wheatgerm carrier oils to detoxify, purify, decongest and brighten the skin. She used Massage Cream on the décolleté and neck during a Swedish massage to relax.

She spread a Refining Skin Masque on my face and Skin Hydrating Masque around my eyes to refine the pores, absorb and balance excess oil, calm, soothe and hydrate. Next there was a Multi Active Toner spritz, a second application of O2 Uptake Serum, followed by an application of Multi Vitamin Power Firm for Eyes and Lips. She completed the facial with Skin Smoothing Cream.

Before I left Tansy handed me a copy of my Face Mapping Skin Analysis Sheet, product samples, information leaflets on exfoliation, pigmentation and premature aging, and an information booklet on the Dermalogica line. At the end of the treatment my skin felt supple and looked bright and clean.