Overall Impression Perhaps because game viewing at the Karkloof Safari Spa was limited to mostly non predator species the animals we encountered were relatively unafraid of vehicles. Many, including a rhino mom and her young, allowed us to park within scant feet of them with nary a glance in our direction. They knew we were there. They just didn’t mind. Having a private vehicle with a knowledgeable and friendly guide enhanced the experience manifold.

My room was spacious and well furnished, including a roof covered terrace abutting the bush. On the first night, the loud sound of scratching beneath me as soon as I turned off the lights caused me to call the watchman who removed the visitor. The following night, I gladly accepted the staff’s invite to sleep in a nearby room. My reward was a good night’s rest and beautiful early morning bush view. Later that day, I found out it had been a squirrel family living in my room.

I looked forward to meal times at the property. Two talented local chefs took turns in the kitchen, preparing flavorful and colorful salads during the day and delightful dishes at night that looked and tasted fresh and wonderful. I liked the availability of healthy options and estate grown and locally sourced produce. The spa, spread out over several buildings a short golf cart ride from reception, was a huge draw. The serene setting competed with the activities available. While I longed to spend quiet time poolside or reading a book on the covered porch of my room other temptations always won. In addition to spa offerings (treatments and classes) and game viewing drives it was also possible to run (with a vehicle driving ahead in case of danger), fish, and visit the nearby Karkloof Falls. Having enough time to take advantage of all the activities the property had to offer was the major challenge. On the whole, my priorities were split between safari and spa activities.

I loved the personalized service, especially the private game viewing vehicle with my own friendly and knowledgeable guide; having safari and spa offerings and outstanding meals, along with the flexibility to decide how to spend my time without being subject to set times or the whims of other guests.

Children Yes. There were none at the property during my winter visit.

Class of Accommodation Five Star Lodge

Connectivity There was complimentary high speed WiFi.

General Manager Mr Dewald Kruger

Handicapped Access Facilities included a paraplegic friendly room with a second paraplegic friendly bathroom.

Length of Stay Two nights. I arrived early in the morning and was able to check into my room right away.

Location Within the Ihlanze Ranch, 26 kilometers (or a 40-minute drive) from Pietermartizburg in KwaZulu-Natal

Managed The Mantis Collection

Owned Mr Fred Wörner

Pets Allowed No

Size There were 16 rooms (called Villas) in the 7,400-acre property, which employed 40 staff excluding spa staff.

Year Opened-Renovated The property opened in 2008.

Lobby And Common Areas The property’s decorative style was Colonial and Safari. The common areas had shady spaces, water features, high ceilings, thatched roofs and comfortable furniture. There were Gordon Clarke black and white photos of fauna and flora, staff, structures and landscapes shot on location. In the main building and rooms there were original paintings of eco sensitive subjects by Kurt Pio, a Cape Town artist. There were indoor and outdoor places to sit (including a piano), dine, read (small library) and imbibe (a cozy bar with stools). Thanks to the spaciousness of the common areas I often felt I was alone or one of few guests in residence.

Bathroom Sliding wood framed glass led from the single living sleeping area into my spacious earth tone bathroom. From there a single wood and glass door led onto a porch. Similar oversize sliding windows also faced the porch. It had a glass enclosed shower, separate bathtub, water closet (with a toilet and urinal) and twin sinks beneath an oversize rectangular mirror. The bathtub was adjacent to the windows, making it possible to enjoy a view of the porch and bush in the background from the tub. Wood shutters provided privacy. The bathrooms were very similar.

Room I stayed in Wetbirds Room 8, a 1216 square foot room called a Luxury Boutique Villa. It included a 463 square foot covered porch with outdoor furniture. Because of the squirrels’ nest under my bed in Room 8 I spent one night in Rocky Outcrop Room 6. While smaller than Room 8 it had a more expansive view. Both rooms were decorated in safari colors, had polished concrete floors, high ceilings, thatched roofs, a sitting area with a flatscreen television and glass walls leading onto a bush facing porch. I could adjust the temperature via a remote controlled air conditioner and underfloor heating. A lamp hung from a wood beam lighting the center of the room. Additional illumination came from the night table lamps and bathroom lights. A large bed was set on a wood frame sandwiched between two matching wood night tables. There were feather and a fluffy duvet on the bed. A cowhide rug was on the floor to the right of the bed. There was also a bench at the foot of the bed. In the evening, I heard sounds of neighbors returning to their rooms.

Food And Restaurants The hotel emphasized a customer centered approach to dining. A spokesperson defined the style as classic fine dining with a contemporary twist, influenced by venison subject to seasonal availability. The property grew its own vegetables and herbs and supplemented its supply from adjacent farms. Both head chefs were from the nearby Pietermaritzburg and Howick areas.

For lunch I had salads such biltong salad and parma ham salad with vinaigrette dressing, and Camembert cheese. For dinner the first night, I had macadamia “caprese” (a favorite), haricot soup, blesbok, which was crunchy on the outside and tender on the inside, and thick French fries, mushrooms, pearl onions (a favorite). Dessert was coconut sorbet (a favorite). The second night, I remember perfectly cooked and delicious venison.

Amenities There was a Bird, Mammal and Predator List in my room which I took on game drives to keep track of the wildlife we spotted. There were toiletries, bathrobes, slippers, electronic safe, flatscreen television and DVD player. There was also a well stocked mini bar including a min refrigerator with Nespresso coffee machine and capsules, instant cocoa packets, and Dilmah tea (Peppermint Leaves, Instant Breakfast, Organic Rooibos, Pure Chamomile Flowers, Green Tea with Jasmine Flowers, Original Earl Grey) along with hot water pitcher and snacks such as trail mix, 47 gram can of Pringles onion and sour cream potato chips, and two apples. As part of the turn down service I received a print out of an Africa fable such as Bee-ware from Bee-hind by Phillip Martin (adapted).

Facilities Outdoor swimming pool, boardroom, bar, restaurant, library, wine cellar, and spa.

Fitness Center And Spa There was a stand alone dedicated 105,000 square foot spa within a short golf cart ride or short walk from the main building.

Pool There was an outdoor swimming pool adjacent to the main building. It was 30 feet by 45 feet and 6 feet deep. There were seven cushioned wood loungers and one umbrella.

Game Viewing During my stay I went on two game drives, one in the evening during which it rained, and the other in morning on our return from a visit to Karkloof Falls. I did not go out the second night because it rained. Sightings were mostly good as many of the animals were relaxed, allowing us to approach and photograph them with ease. Karkloof staff estimated there were 271 bird species in the area. There were more than 40 diurnal and nocturnal animal species including buffalo, rhino and leopard (only signs and no sightings of the leopard), three of the big five. Kenny Musarurwa, who had 17 years of experience, was my knowledgeable and guest centered safari guide. In addition to the animals and birds, Kenny described the topography including the Karkloof and Mngeni rivers and pointed out plants and flowers, such as bloodlilies and clivias, during our walk on the path to the falls.

Animals we saw: blue wildebeest, buffalo (Big Five), bushbuck, giraffe, hippo, impala, nyala (they also walked around near my room and the grassy areas of the spa), vervet monkey, warthog, white rhino (Big Five), zebra, spotted necked otter, and water monitor lizard.

Birds we saw or heard: ostrich, little grebe, hadeda, hamerkop, African spoonbill, white-faced duck, Egyptian goose, yellow-billed duck, spur-winged goose, black (yellow-billed) kite, long-crested eagle, African crowned eagle, blackbreasted snake-eagle, black crake, common moorhen, African jacana, black-winged lapwing, giant kingfisher, brown-hooded kingfisher, cardinal woodpecker, fork-tailed drongo, black-headed oriole, dark-capped bulbul, sombre greenbul (bulbul), olive thrush, southern black flycatcher, African pied wagtail, common fiscal (shrike), black-backed puffback, Cape glossy starling, red-winged starling, and scarlet-chested sunbird.

Activities In addition to spa activities and treatments such as yoga, Thai boxing, Muay Thai boxing, bamboo dancing, meditation, and tai chi, and game drives it was also possible to go on guided bush walks to the nearby waterfalls (a drive to the waterfalls preceded the walk), nature trails, mountain biking, bass and tilapia (bream) fishing in dams, and fly-fishing for yellowish in rivers.

Conference Facilities There was a meeting room capable of hosting 16 in boardroom style seating.

Other The hotel received the 2014 and 2015 Trip Advisor Certificate of Excellence as well as the 2015 Certificate of Excellence Hall of Fame.

The hotel had introduced oxpeckers to control tick infestation on antelopes, giraffe and buffalo. Water weeds were brought under control using biological methods. The most successful of them was the introduction of sterile grass carp (flown in from Cape Town), red-breast bream, and later hippos, that created open channels and consumed vast quantities of water weeds. The property management ordered the planting of 2000 indigenous trees in areas that had been disturbed by past human activities, such as in old croplands.

Many rare and endangered animals were present and protected on the property, including African rock python, blackheaded dwarf chameleon, white rhino, samango monkey, blue duiker, spotted-neck otter, honey badger, Natal red rock hare, grey crowned crane, martial eagle, and bald Ibis.

Massive infestations of alien invader plants were cleared with minimal use of herbicides. Once cleared many of these areas were mowed to create short grass grazing areas and keep the weeds under control. The property supported the government’s employment creation program Working for Water with three teams of independent contractors who cleared alien weeds alongside the three rivers.

Some of green building and eco-friendly initiatives onsite were: Wooden paneling without formaldehyde in the glue; recycled clay bricks in the construction of the spa; locally quarried cladding stones; natural materials like glass, sandstone, wood, terracotta and stone; vanities made of wood, rather than melamine; non-toxic wall paint for all walls; inclusion of organic wines in the wine list; Green’s and Teas, the spa cafe, offered mostly organic and raw ingredients on the menu; the disposal of grey water and the use of wetlands for filtering; washing of guest garments with Faithful to Nature detergents.

Cleanliness Very Good

Date of Review August 2015

Reviewers

Photos and Article by Elena del Valle

Service The hotel staff members I met such as Dewald Kruger, general manager, and Esther, assistant manager, Douglas, and Tinei in the dining room (who was enthusiastic about wines, made pinotage recommendations, and offered me wines to taste), and Wisdom, the night guard, were service oriented, pleasant, and attentive. There was confusion and sometimes conflicting or delayed replies when I asked about the opening hours of the spa, meal times, and my departure time for the airport.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression When on safari spa treatments are a well deserved respite from the bump and grind of the four wheel vehicles and the dust of the rides. However, spa time is always scarce and limited to non game viewing hours when everybody scrambles to book treatments. Frequently spa facilities are limited and often seem like an afterthought. The idea of a customer centered luxury and gourmet oriented safari and spa property appealed to me as soon as I heard about it. I was hesitant because reaching Karkloof Safari Spa required a side trip to KwaZulu-Natal, a province of South Africa I was not planning to go to on that trip. In the end, I could not resist the temptation of an all inclusive luxury spa and safari property. I was glad I went.

Although I thoroughly enjoyed my private game viewing outings, the weather was less than ideal for outdoor activities during my winter stay. It was a mixed blessing. Due to evening rainy weather I surrendered safari time in exchange for spa time, making the spa experience the highlight of my visit. In addition to the lovely treatments I had, I spent hours relaxing in the near empty and quiet facilities. On the second evening, at the end of my treatments, I remained at the spa until after 9 p.m. When I left the spa building, a staff person was waiting to take me back in a golf cart to the main building. I was thankful not to have to wait for someone to arrive or to have to walk back in the rain. When I arrived, wondering if I had missed dinner, the chef came out to describe the menu and take my order. It was delicious and the perfect end to a most pleasant day.

Despite its size (at 105,000 square feet the Karkloof Safari Spa was among the largest on the continent), the spa never felt overlarge. I liked the expansive clean facilities, Thai orientation, natural ingredients made on the premises, and competent and welcoming therapists so much I managed to squeeze eight treatments (just over eight hours) into my two-night stay (I checked in early). While in South Africa, a visit to the customer centered all inclusive Thai style spa would be a most tempting option.

Handicapped Access A representative indicated the spa welcomed handicapped guests. There were wheelchair friendly change rooms and treatment rooms.

Location The spa is 20 kilometers, part of it unpaved, from Pietermaritzburg

Manager Me Sawittree Komonsing (Kae)

Number of Staff There were 15 staff members in total and nine, one man and eight women, at the time of my visit. With the exception of the receptionist most were Thai nationals.

Owned And Managed Mr Fred Wörner

Size 105,486 square feet, including 525 feet of thatched walkways, stretched across interconnected buildings.

Special Training Spa therapists had formal qualifications from Thailand, with at least 500 hours of experience, and were members of the South African Spa Association.

Treatment Rooms There were 17 treatment rooms, including three couples rooms. Five treatment rooms had on-suite bathrooms. Four rooms had futons for traditional Thai yoga massage.

Year Opened-Renovated Established in 2008 the property went through on-going renovation and improvements, according to a representative.

Common Areas The spa was made up of several building connected by thatch covered walkways. The main building housed a reception desk and office, locker rooms, indoor pools, outdoor Jacuzzi, saunas and steam rooms. The decorative style in common areas was described by a property representative as Modern Safari. Several times I saw female nyala grazing calmly in the grassy patches between buildings.

Amenities When I arrived a staff member provided me a gown and slippers imported from Thailand for use during my visit. Toiletries included organic shower gel, hand soap, and body and hand lotion made onsite. On request she provided me a plastic bag for my wet bathing suit. In the lockers area there were blow dryers, cotton swabs, tissue paper, shower caps, house brand shampoo, body wash, and conditioner. In the pool area, there were pitchers of chilled citrus and honey, and spicy blend flavored waters.

Facilities There was a flotation pool, saunas and steam rooms in the pool area and in the locker room, combination steam and sauna, and an open-air Jacuzzi. According to a spokesperson, guests were welcome to unlimited access to all hydrotherapy facilities throughout their stay.

Pool There was an Indoor Roman bath 30 feet by 16 feet by 5 feet large. There were waist deep hot and cold Kneipp plunge pools.

Lockers And Bathrooms There were 19 lockers each in the men’s and women’s locker room areas. In addition the sauna and steam rooms in the Hydro Section, there were saunas and steam rooms inside the locker rooms, to ensure privacy for nude users, and three bathrooms.

Other From Johannesburg the fastest and most direct access to the property was a direct flight to Pietermaritzburg, a nearby city where my safari guide picked me up. The spa was open to day guests, depending on availability. From my room, which was near the property’s main building, I could walk along the property road to the spa. I could also request a golf cart ride to the spa from one of the staff.

Private yoga, tai chi, bamboo dancing and muay Thai kick boxing classes were available on request. I loved that all the ingredients were made from fresh products blended immediately before the treatments. While many products used in the treatments were made onsite some products were imported from Thailand. The avocado oil used in the treatments was purchased from a neighboring avocado farm. The spa had received Trip Advisor Certificate of Excellence for 2014 and 2015 and the Trip Advisor Certificate of Excellence Hall of Fame 2015.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Review August 2015

Number of Treatments Eight

Reviewers

Photos and Article by Elena del Valle

Treatments Experienced On the first day I had a 30-minute Lime and Ginger Salt Body Polish, which included a 15-minute back massage with pomegranate cream; 30-minute Nourishing Coconut Wrap, which included a 15-minute back massage with coconut body lotion; 90-minute Aroma Thai Massage; and 75-minute Thai Melon and Honey Facial, which included a head massage.

Before I left I squeezed in: 45-minute Green Tea Scrub, which included a 15-minute back massage with detox cream; 60-minute Lanna Hot Oils, Hair and Scalp Treatment, which included a back, shoulder and neck massage (it was difficult to remove the coconut oil from my hair; even after three shampoos it remained oily); 75-minute Asian Hand and Foot Ritual, which included a 15-minute hand and foot massage; and 90-minute Aroma Thai Massage. My therapists Ning, Da, and Mook, were friendly and service oriented.

Would You Return? Yes

Overall Impression We arrived at Fordoun, named after a loch in Scotland and built on an old dairy, on a Sunday after two weeks of activity filled days, ready for a little down time. It was overcast and rainy with few outdoor activity temptations. At the same time, the small hotel and spa property was quiet following a big event weekend; just what we needed. In light of the weather and quiet ambiance the spa was the perfect indulgence during our overnight stay.

What I remember most about my spa time was the floatation pool (a water filled shallow tank designed for guests to remain weightless in order to promote relaxation), built in the farm’s former grain feed silo, because it was the first time I tried a floatation pool; and the spa’s Africa themed product line and treatment options.

The family owned and managed spa, built within a working dairy farm, was large and lovingly built. It offered hotel guests and day visitors plenty of treatment and activities options including indoor and outdoor pools as well as flotation pool, Jacuzzi, steam, sauna, rasul chamber, yoga classes, an indoor work out area and a diverse menu of treatment options.

Of the treatments I sampled my favorite was the Nduku Nduku Massage, a vigorous back of the body massage using traditional Zulu Knobkerries and Dr Ndlovu’s Artemesia Massage Oil. I especially liked the African looseleaf teas including rooibos red bush tea and artemesia, a type of wormwood, on offer in between treatments in the spa’s waiting area. The next time I’m in the area the Fordoun Spa will be high on my list of places to revisit.

General Manager Melanie Paul

Handicapped Access The spa welcomed guests with disabilities. Staff described the hotel and spa as a wheelchair friendly facility. There was a bathroom able to accommodate paraplegic guests, and a wheelchair ramp into the spa and into the indoor pool.

Location In the Natal Midlands of KwaZulu Natal in South Africa. It’s about 90 minutes drive from Durban or five hours drive from Johannesburg.

Number Of Staff There were 11 employees.

Owned Jon and Micheline Bates

Size The spa, housed in a single story building, was 45 meters by 33 meters in size and had 11 treatment rooms.

Special Training At the time of our visit, Fordoun therapists were South African citizens qualified with International Therapy Examination Council (ITEC), Comité international D’esthétique de Cosmétologie (CIDESCO – International committee for esthetics and Cosmetology), and Confederation of International Beauty Therapy and Cosmetology (CIBTAC).The product companies they worked with, Africology and Elemis, trained the Fordoun staff in their specific treatments and the spa provided in house training for Fordoun specific treatments.

Therapists were trained in Bio-energy healing by Brenda McFie, the spa’s Energy-Medicine practitioner. Spa Manager Melanie Paul completed an International Organization for Standardization (ISO) 9001:2008 Quality Management systems course with TUV Rheinland, a company that holds courses in quality management systems to implement these standards.

Treatment Rooms There were five single dry treatment rooms, one couples treatment room, three wet rooms including a Vichy Shower, Mud Room and a dry treatment room with a shower. There was a Rasul Chamber, a Hydrotherapy Room, a Traditional Consultation Hut and a Bio-energy Rebalancing Room with crystals, pendulums and energy medicine books used for energy medicine exclusively.

Year Opened-Renovated The spa was established in 2005

Common Areas The Classic English Country interior décor was the work of Micheline Bates. There was original Art by Anne Powley and ceramics from the Ardmore studio. With the assistance of Grice Small and Petit architects and Zan der Thal Executive Spas who provided spa expertise, the Bates Family realized their vision of converting part of their dairy farm into a spa (and boutique hotel). Prior to 2005 cows were milked in what is now the main heated pool area. The Jersey stud bulls and calf pens were where the gym, sauna and steam rooms are now. Until 2002 the cows gathered in what are now the central courtyard and reception areas.

Amenities Guests were offered Toweling Bath Robes, disposable slippers, Elemis Cleanser, Dr Ndlovu Artemesia Shower gel and Artemesia Hand and Body Lotion, conditioning shampoo, and combs. There were several types of loose leaf teas and coffee in the self service guest waiting area.

Facilities There were indoor and outdoor pools, sauna, steam room, Jacuzzi within the indoor swimming pool area, floatation pool, rasul chamber (tiled steam room), work out room and wood floor multipurpose room.

Pools The Outdoor Pool was 10 meters long and 3 meters wide, with a cascading waterfall. The pool depth varied between 1.2 meters to 1.8 meters. The Indoor Pool, maintained at 30 degrees Celsius, was 17 meters long and 5 meters wide. It had a Jacuzzi inside and was 1.3 meters deep. The Floatation Pool, kept at 36 degrees Celsius in the property’s old silo had “stars” that changed color on the ceiling and underwater Reiki Music.

Lockers And Bathrooms There were 32 lockers in the men’s and women’s dressing rooms. Each one was stocked with a bathrobe and slippers for guest use during their time in the spa.

Other The spa was recognized in the House and Leisure Best Spa in the House and 2009 Leisure/Visa Best of SA competition. An extraordinary feature at the spa was the availability of Elliot Ndlovu, a Traditional Zulu Doctor and director of the company. Described as a sangoma or spiritual healer and inyanga or medicinal healer, he offered one on one consultations with guests. In KwaNdlovu (Zulu for the place of Ndlovu) the spa staff grew, under the guidance of Dr. Ndlovu, 50 traditional healing plants some of which were used to formulate Fordoun’s in house product line. The area was home to a traditional style consultation room and two therapy rooms.

Cleanliness Very good

Date Of Review November 2009

Number Of Treatments Two activities and three treatments

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Juan Cooper

Service The staff were friendly and efficient. At times we were unsure what to expect and the staff provided little guidance. For example, it was our first time in a floatation pool so we were unsure what to expect. After we arrived at the reception, the therapist led us to the floatation pool, suggested we shower before entering and said she would return when our time was up. We experienced a similar procedure with the rasul chamber.

Would You Return? Yes

Treatments Experienced During my visit, I had a two self driven sessions, time in the flotation tank and in the rasul chamber; and three Africa themed treatments, a facial, a wrap and a massage. Late on the afternoon of our arrival, my travel partner and I had a 30-minute Floatation Session in Fordoun’s Floatation Tank built in a restored grain silo. The tank is a saline pool designed to relieve gravitational pressure from the body and induce relaxation. After we rinsed off the salt water we waited about 30 minutes for a lightning storm before walking across the spa to the rasul chamber.

During the 45-minute Mcako Lungisa (rasul clay and steam treatment) we self applied white clay (mud collected from the nearby Kamberg) over our bodies while relaxing in a handsome tiled steam chamber by ourselves for 20 minutes. Then we rinsed off the mud with the chamber’s “tropical rain shower” and shower hoses. The treatment left my skin clean feeling and soft.

The following morning I walked to the spa shortly after breakfast. My first therapy was a 75-minute African Earth Experience created to combine traditional Zulu healing and energy medicine and designed to stimulate and cleanse the body. I also had a 45-minute Nduku Nduku Massage, a back of the body massage using traditional Zulu Knobkerries and Dr Ndlovu’s Artemesia massage oil.

This treatment incorporated African ingredients raw Artemesia Afra plant, Dr Ndlovu’s products and traditional Zulu clay (collected from a nearby location in the Kamberg). After a light spray over the body of Dr Ndlovu’s Artemesia Body Spray and a foot cleansing ritual, the therapist applied freshly ground traditional Zulu clay to the body to draw away impurities and leave the skin rejuvenated. I lay on a heated mosaic bed while the clay soaked in and the therapist massaged my head and scalp. After removing the mud with a warm shower the therapist massaged Dr Ndlovu’s Artemesia Massage Oil and two African poultice stamps containing salt and raw Artemesia believed to have uplifting and healing properties.

My morning concluded with a 60-minute Africology Facial designed to hydrate, nourish and promote anti-aging.

Overall Impression While we were at Amakhosi it rained every day, on every drive. One day we returned so soaked, in spite of the rain ponchos and blankets provided in the safari vehicle, my boots took three days to dry out. And, yet the game viewing rewards were such that all the guests, children included, went out drive after drive in the cold and rain.

Of course there was more to this family friendly luxury lodge facing the Mkuse River than rain. The new looking and well styled lodge was comfortable and the staff welcoming. We enjoyed our spacious and handsome river fronting suites (mine even had a Jacuzzi and hammock), creature comforts like warm refresher towelettes and cocktail beverages on our return from the game drives, in room massages and foodie oriented meals.

We especially appreciated the staff’s friendliness and nice touches. Pieter, one of the staff members, was unfailingly service oriented and attentive. We would recommend this property to friends and colleagues seeking a family friendly luxury game viewing property in KwaZulu Natal, a low risk malaria zone when we were there.

Children Yes, children of all ages were welcome although a company representative indicated it is not advisable for young children to join the scheduled game drives.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury safari lodge

Connectivity There was no Internet connectivity or cell phone signal within the camp while we were there.

General Manager Alwyn Wentzel

Handicapped Access Yes, a River Suite had some wheelchair access features.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location The lodge is about 350 kilometers or a three hour drive from Richard’s Bay and about 450 kilometers from Durban, the main city in the region.

Owned Simon and Jan Kat

Pets Allowed No

Size There were eight suites and 38 employees at the lodge located within a 12,000 hectare reserve shared with the Mkuze Falls Lodge.

Year Opened-Renovated The lodge opened in 2000. The most recent renovation took place May 2009 when the main lodge buildings were re-thatched and the deck had maintenance work.

Lobby And Common Areas The décor was contemporary African and earthy with thatched roofs and Zulu artifacts. Greens, burnt siena orange, dark brown wood and leather furniture were predominant colors and features. The was a one story building that was the heart of the lodge where the indoor and outdoor dining areas, reception, bar, gift shop and pool of the property were located. The suites fanned out to one side of the main building, fronting the river.

Bathroom The bathroom was spacious with a water closet on the left, a doorless concrete shower on the right, a large bathtub in the middle, and twin sinks on a stone base with rectangular wood framed mirrors. There was also a full length mirror hanging on the wall to one side.

Room We stayed in two similar suites both 75 square meters large. Mine was Umntwana Honeymoon Suite or Suite 8, the last room and one of two honeymoon suites situated at the end of the walking path and slightly recessed from the river for maximum quiet and privacy. While it took a few extra minutes to get there and it could be a bit intimidating to walk to and from the suite at night I appreciated the extra privacy and quiet. I never once saw or heard my neighbors, a honeymooning couple from the United Kingdom, except along the path to the lodge. My travel companion stayed in River Suite 3, one of the nearest to the main building. It fronted the river. Both suites had a split plan with the sleeping area on the right side, a spacious open plan bathroom in the middle and back and a living area on the left. While both had a spacious wood deck with comfortable outdoor furniture including loungers and a table with two chairs, mine also had a hammock and a Jacuzzi plunge pool facing the river.

The floors were of polished and sealed concrete, making them cool to the touch. Indoor temperatures were regulated via two individual wall air conditioning units, one in the living area and another in the sleeping area. Earth tones and African artifacts rounded out the wood, glass and concrete décor.

Sliding glass and wood doors led into each air conditioned suite which had soaring thatched ceiling and large windows to let in the sunlight. The living area had comfortable informal furnishings, a peach colored two-seat sofa, two cushioned wicker armchairs, and several wood tables. A long rectangular framed mirror hung above the sofa and a coarse area rug was at my feet. There was a built in wood cabinet against the wall with a beverage filled mini refrigerator filled. On top of the cabinet there was a coffee and tea service.

In the bedroom, the comfortable queen bed with mosquito netting took up most of the space. It was framed by identical wood night tables with lamps. There was also a vanity table with mirror and a luggage rack. The bed in the River Suite had no mosquito netting and there were many insects which was disquieting initially. There were also many mosquitos at the entrance to the River Suite and few to none at the entrance to mine, perhaps because it was slightly further back from the river.

Food And Restaurants We always looked forward to meal times at Amakhosi. The cuisine, a blending of African and European flavors prepared by Lauren and Shaun, was delightful. One of my favorite treats was tea time where there were sweet and savory bite size morsels to tempt us and friendly staff to egg us on. While we were there we had two delicious dinners: Starters of Cauliflower and Cappuccino Soup or Slow Roasted Venison; Pineapple and Mint Sorbet; main course of Over Baked Yellowtail or Seared Kudu Loin with vegetables; and Chocolate Tart followed by a cheese board and hot beverages. For our second dinner there was Mushroom and Biltong Soup or Beetroot and Goat Cheese starters; Melon and Ginger Sorbet; Seared Beef Fillet or Spinach and Feta Filled Chicken Breast with vegetables; Vanilla and Mango Pannacotta followed by a cheese board and hot beverages.

Amenities There were luxury regular size toiletries including shampoo, bath salts, foam bath, vanity kit, body lotion and soap as well as bathrobes, slippers, fully stocked mini bar, electronic safe, and air conditioning.

Facilities The lodge had a restaurant, bar, pool, library corner and gift shop selling handcrafted jewelry, silk scarves and African mementos.

Pool An attractive pool, surrounded by lounge chairs and foliage, was about 9 meters long, 5 meters wide and 1.25 meters deep at the deepest side. We were surprised to discover a number of sound filled frogs in the pool as we walked by one early morning on our way to our game drive.

Game Viewing Game viewing, especially of lions, was good. Our guide made few comments when we stopped to see animals he was looking for and answered questions curtly. There were four guides and four trackers at Amakhosi. A maximum of six or eight guests was permitted per vehicle, game vehicles had different capacities, so that “each guest has a ‘window seat,’” according to a property representative.

During our visit we had an opportunity to spend quality time with a pride of lions on more than one occasion, including two male lions and mother and two juveniles making an affectionate greeting; and several lions feeding and playing. We also saw a cheetah feeding for a few minutes before we drove away. Other animals we saw: Elephant, warthog, wildebeest, impala, nyala, giraffe, zebra, waterbuck, bushbuck, thick tailed bushbaby, and monkeys. We also saw malachite kingfisher, tawny eagle, martial eagle, wolly stork, and European bee eater.

Activities In addition to the dusk and dawn game viewing drives, there were in room massages and village visits on offer. The pool area looked like a nice place to spend time although it was raining and much too cold during our visit to even think about the pool.

Other The lodge supported a local Zulu village in the form of donations and offered guest visits to a working Zulu village. The ponchos they provided to protect us from the rain didn’t seem to be completely waterproof (I was soaked through three layers of clothing on our return one night) and had no lining. Water for the lodge was sourced from the river and a bore hole. Phume, a friendly local Zulu woman who learned some massage techniques and worked as a server at the lodge, provided in-room massages. I had a 30 minute back and neck massage in my suite just before tea.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review October 2009

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Juan Cooper

Service There was twice daily room service. Since it was raining so much and I had few changes of clothes with me I was very pleased that my laundry was returned the same day. My requests for an animal list and about the possibility of a frog tour remained unanswered.

On the night we got soaked I was chilled to the bone from the cold and rain and was thrilled to find a surprise steaming hot bubble bath in my suite on our return from the drive. To add to the ambiance the bathtub and nearby area were decorated with bougainvillea flowers and leaves. By dinner time I had warmed up and was ready to enjoy the tasty meal.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Our stay at the mysteriously named Ghost Mountain Inn was sorrowfully affected by the weather. It rained more or less constantly during our entire two-night stay. That didn’t seem to dampen the staff’s spirits much. Thanks to their cheerful and can-do attitude we went forward with sightseeing plans and had a pleasant stay.

What I remember most about the family friendly 50-room inn facing Ghost Mountain is my spacious and comfortable 110-square foot Executive Suite with a view of the mountain. I especially enjoyed opening the double glass wood framed folding doors that led to a private lawn area. The open suite highlighted the mountain view and made me feel I was communing with nature even with early morning fog and drizzle.

Being near the mountain and having such a seemingly close view reminded us that we were in the land of the Zulu, the famed proud warrior tribe of Southern Africa. One of the theories for the name Ghost Mountain is that in the past people thought they heard wailing and saw lights some believe were from members of a group that broke away from the main Zulu tribe. The runaways, they believe, would return at night, in secret, with flames to light the way to bury their dead in the caves of the mountain and wail in mourning for their loss.

Our guide, Jean Toucher, an articulate university educated woman retired from her first career as an interior designer, was knowledgeable and passionate about her work. Whether we were game viewing through the hilly Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve on our way to the inn or on a boat watching elephants frolic in Lake Jozini we throughly enjoyed our time in her company. I would recommend this family oriented property to friends visiting the area and seeking a comfortable inn with friendly staff and access to game viewing nearby.

Children Children of all ages were welcome in the inn and on all activities on offer. The hotel also had special kiddie bed linen and a menu for early meals.

Class Of Accommodation Four star inn

Connectivity Although there was no Internet access from our rooms, there was limited and slow WiFi connectivity in parts of the lobby area and dining rooms. Having Internet access was very helpful to check for urgent messages and check-in back home.

General Manager Christine Maucher

Handicapped Access Physically challenged guests were most welcome at the inn which had an access friendly room for wheelchair bound guests. Inn corridors are level and wide enough for guests with disabilities to make their way from the reception to the rooms and public areas.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location The inn is about 500 kilometers east of Johannesburg and 300 kilometers north of Durban on the way to the well known Mpumalanga region and South African neighbors Swaziland and Mozambique.

Owned-Managed Peter, Susan and Craig Rutherfoord owned the inn when we were there. The property had been managed by the Rutherfoord family since its founding in 1962.

Pets Allowed Pets were welcome by arrangement only.

Size There were 50 employees in the 50-room single story inn set within a six-hectare property.

Year Opened-Renovated The inn first opened to the public in 1962. In 2009, the entrance and driveway were paved; seven guest rooms were refurbished and renamed Garden Rooms; the meetings and events rooms were completely gutted and redone to include a water feature and fountain in a pre dinner drinks area; the kitchen had a complete overhaul, and lastly the outside bar and terrace area was re-done and modernized to be weather friendly.

Lobby And Common Areas The comfort oriented hotel had an African Colonial design style featuring many historical prints of the area dating back to the 1700’s, original beadwork, and paintings by Elsa Pooley, a South African botanical artist. Across from the reception desk there was a gift shop. Down the hall, there was an indoor dining room on the right, a lobby area in the middle and a bar and restaurant to the left. A swimming pool was within easy reach and the spa was off one of the guestroom hallways.

Bathroom The spacious bathroom had beige and blue tile floors. To the right there was a water closet with a bidet. Past the water closet there was a shower with a glass door that led to a second shower, outdoors. In the center of the bathroom, against the rear wall there were twin sinks set on a yellow stone base. Twin framed mirrors hung above the sinks. On the left side of the bathroom there was a stand alone bathtub. On both ends of the bathtub there were art cases built into the wall with African artifact and glass doors.

Room My favorite feature at Ghost Mountain was the spacious and comfortable Executive Suite with a lovely view of Ghost Mountain from my bed in the morning and from just about anywhere in the two-room suite. Room 50, a 110-square meter one bedroom suite located at the end of a long series of hallways, offered the hotel’s best and largest accommodations.

Inside the suite, there was an entrance foyer with tiled floors, a closet with an electronic safe, a wet bar with a refrigerator, and coffee and tea service. To the right there was a guest bathroom. Past the entrance area there was a living room with a patterned cloth sofa in earth tones and a wood armchair surrounded by wood tables facing a cabinet in the corner that was home to a Samsung television. There was a framed mirror on the wall behind the sofa. Privacy doors led to a bedroom and spacious bathroom.

A king bed with a wood headboard, framed by identical wood night tables with lamps, stood in the center of the bedroom. There was a second Samsung television on a table in the corner near the entrance to the room. In the opposite side of the room there was a wicker and wood armchair. The area behind the bed had wood panels that opened onto a walk in closet and vanity area. The right side of the closet had a wood vanity, stool and framed mirror set. The middle area was taken up by a long luggage rack and the left side of the room was occupied by a wall side built-in closet. Behind the closet, folding glass and wood doors led to a walled inner courtyard and garden with a water feature.

Folding glass and wood doors in the living, bedroom and bathroom offered access to a private outdoor terrace and lawn with a view of the mountain. There was dark khaki wall to wall carpeting and complimentary beige double curtains which kept the early morning sunlight outside. Air conditioner and heater units and fans controlled the room temperature. On the walls there were black and white Africa themed photos and artwork. Sliding wood doors led to the bedroom.

Food And Restaurants Meals were mostly buffet style although it was also possible to order a la carte as well. The food was savory and filling.

Amenities On our second at the inn night room service left a lovely nougat bite for me. There was also bottled water, coffee and tea service in suite. For toiletries there were Afrique tubes of body lotion, shower gel, shampoo as well as soap, loofah, and bath salts.

Facilities The inn had a tennis court, an outdoor swimming pool, an outside bar with lounge and fireplace area as well as an inside open plan lounge, a gift shop, an indoor dining room, a gym and on site spa.

Fitness Center And Spa There was a small work out facility with several exercise machines, free weights and two televisions. The adults only area was also home to a steam room, and relaxing garden with plunge pool. There was also a spa with two treatment rooms offering facial and beauty treatments and Dermalogica and Africology products. Betsy, the friendly and very professional spa manager, gave me an excellent one hour massage and wax treatment.

Pool There was a 4 meter by 10 meter swimming pool 2 meters at its deep end and 1.2 meters at its shallowest.

Activities In addition to working out at the gym and in-house spa treatments the inn offered activities at nearby locations. There were game and cultural safaris, boat cruises, hikes and bird walks. We drove through the nearby Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve on our way to the inn from the Durban airport and went on a boat ride on Lake Jozini. We also took a scenic route through the Lebombo Mountains and rural Zulu community lands into the Myeni Homestead where we met Justice, a Zulu tribe member who showed us his home and a little of his village before the rain forced us back to the inn in a hurry. On the boat ride we saw giant heron, egret, elephants on shore and frolicking in the water and hippos.

Other The inn had received 2007, 2008 and 2009 AA /American Express Accommodation Awards for Best Country Commercial Hotel.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review October 2009

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Juan Cooper

Service My suite was serviced twice daily. Staff members we met such as the managers and tour guides were friendly and service oriented.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression We arrived at Isandlwana, named for nearby Mount Isandlwana, after a morning drive through the green and rocky hills of KwaZulu Natal, an area of South Africa known for its natural beauty and battle scars. The first thing that struck me on arrival at the lodge was the discreet way it was constructed on the side of a hill. Not surprisingly one of our favorite features at this small lodge was the view of the neighboring Zulu village and surrounding countryside from the common areas and our rooms.

The sound of cattle mooing in the early morning reminded me we were in a rural area. Soon, with the aid of Dalton Lindizwe Ngobese, our Zulu guide (when he wasn’t conducting tours he was the lodge’s friendly barkeep), we explored a corner of the small Zulu community that was adjacent to and part owner of the lodge. As we walked around observing the native housing structures and kraals I remembered that cattle are the Zulu’s most prized possessions.

We dedicated the following day, morning and afternoon, to Robert “Rob” Gerrard, FRGS, a South African born retired British Army officer cum resident historian at the lodge specializing in Anglo Zulu and Anglo Boer Wars. While we sat in the sunshine of the lodge terrace, he shared vivid descriptions and highlighted the leaders and main participants of the Battle of Isandlwana. As we faced the site of the famous battle he painstakingly brought to life the events that led to the devastating British loss. The location of the lodge is significant as the place where the Zulu commander stood during the tribe’s victory against the British in 1879.

After a break for a midmorning snack he concluded his narrative on the grass at the actual location of the battle, a short drive from the lodge and visible from the lodge terrace. We gave that part of the tour a miss to avoid the necessary strong insect repellent spray and the pesky ticks that are abundant in the Zululand grass that time of year. In the afternoon, our enthusiastic and well informed guide escorted us in a lodge vehicle to Rorke’s Drift (a 20-minute drive) for the second major battle site which he revived for us while we walked around and later settled in portable canvas chairs under the shade of a tree. Although I am not a fan of battles his telling of the Anglo Zulu encounters near Isandlwana Lodge captured my interest and brought the famed battles to life. It made the visit to Isandlwana worthwhile and memorable.

The 15-room hillside lodge was ideal for battle buffs, especially those interested in the Zulu British battles of the area, Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift. In addition to the picturesque view, home style meals, cozy and comfortable accommodations and friendly staff, we liked the property’s community orientation. Isandlwana Lodge was made possible as a result of the efforts of many people and owned by two American partners and the surrounding Zulu community with proceeds partly benefiting the community itself.

Children The lodge welcomed children seven years of age and older. Battlefield tours were open to children 14 and older unless prior arrangements were made.

Class Of Accommodation A four star luxury lodge

Connectivity There was satellite Internet access via a lodge computer in the library (40 rand for 30 minutes, 75 rand for 60 minutes and 150 rand for daily use).

General Manager Andre Broerse

Handicapped Access The lodge was able to accommodate people who are “not seriously handicapped.” According to hotel staff some of the rooms are large enough to accommodate a wheel chair. The staff were able to add a shower seat and a flexible shower head to the bathroom as long as guests are able to step over a small rise into the shower.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location The lodge is located in the iNyoni Rocks escarpment in the heart of South Africa’s Zululand.

Owned-Managed The property was co-owned by Magalen O. Bryant, Mary Pat Stubbs, Howard N. Parks, and Isandlwana Community Development Trust.

Pets Allowed No

Size Twenty-seven employees worked at the four hectare property that housed 15 guest rooms.

Year Opened-Renovated The lodge was established in 1999 with the help of 80 local people. In 2008 and 2009, the management re-did the soft furnishings in all the bedrooms and recovered media room chairs and bar stools.

Lobby And Common Areas The lodge was designed with environmentally sensitive architecture to look as a part of the rocks on which it stands. Shield shaped, it has a thatched roof and was made with local materials including rocks to make it resemble Zulu kraals or cattle pens. The furniture was made in nearby Durban from indigenous woods; the columns that support the roof were made from materials from the Old West Pier in Durban, each named for a Zulu commander or important person during the Anglo Zulu War; and the slasto tiles are South African. The interior design, African rustic with modern touches, was by Roy Farren, a Durban architect, and the owners. Most of the wall hangings were historical and ethnic pieces.

Bathroom This area was a mixture of rustic African and modern features. Stone walls and floors predominated in the bathroom. To the left of the entrance there was a black ceramic sink set on a wood base. There were silver color bathroom fixtures and a round mirror that hung over the sink. There was a dark round stone shower with a curtain and a narrow skylight and, across from it, in the corner, a toilet.

Room We stayed in Rooms 1 and 12, each with a fine view of the area, a private balcony and about 24 square meters of bedroom space. Room One, Cetshwayo, was named for the Zulu king of that name (Cetshway kaMpande), and Room Twelve Ndabuko, named for another Zulu, faced the neighboring Zulu village. Room One was noteworthy at the lodge as the room where President Jimmy Carter stayed when he visited the area. Once inside the room, a small foyer area led to the bathroom on the right and a wood closet with a safe on the left set against the wall. The rooms, almost identical except for their location and view, had simple putty colored carpeting, somewhat worn, as well as white walls, high ceilings, white shades over the windows and framed African motif artwork.

A queen bed with two wood headboards framed by matching wood night tables and lamps occupied the center of the room. There were two sand colored armchairs, one on either side of the bed, and a built-in wood table against the wall that faced the bed. On it there was a coffeemaker and electric hot water pitcher, a cookie jar filled with cookies as well as a fruit bowl. A round framed mirror hung above the table and narrow and long windows were on either side of the mirror. The most salient feature of the room and the area where my eyes where always drawn was to a large window that took up most of the center of the room. Two doors, one on each side of the room, led to an outdoor patio with a table and two chairs. Although it was too windy and chilly to sit outside for long I ventured onto the balcony to enjoy the view.

Meals Some 32 guests could be seated in the dining area. The lodge served mostly continental food with occasional ethnic dishes. Breakfast was served buffet style including cereal, yogurt, fruit and cheeses as well as eggs and sides. Tea and a pastry was served mid morning on our second day at the lodge. Lunch (served from 1 p.m. to 2 p.m.) and dinner (served at 8 p.m.) were plated meals from a set menu offering two starter dishes, two main course options, dessert, tea or coffee.

Amenities There were Moulton Brown soaps, shower gel, shower cap and shampoo. There was also French press coffee makers and tea service in the rooms, cookies and fruit. There was complimentary mosquito and insect repellent. I looked forward to news tidbits in the one sheet news roundup that was delivered to my room door in the mornings.

Facilities There was a dining room, curio shop, bar, swimming pool, media room, and library.

Pool The oblique shaped pool was 9 meters long by 3 to 5 meters wide; and 1.3 meters deep at the shallow end and 1.5m deep at deep end.

Activities The main attractions at the lodge were the in depth and lengthy discussions and site tours led by Robert Gerrard, a historian and expert on the battles of Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift among other area battles. Gerrard is the son of Brigadier BJD Gerrad DSO who was in charge of the Gordon Highlanders, and grandson of Sir John Robinson, the first prime minister of Natal. After completing his studies in Great Britain Gerrard was commissioned into the British Army. He served with The Gordons in Kenya and on secondment in Malaysia, Borneo and Thailand. In 1969, he left the army and returned to South Africa to become a commodity trader. His love of British military history led him to lecture extensively on the Anglo Zulu War of 1879 and Anglo Boer War of 1881 and 1899 to 1902. In 1998, he became a fellow of the Royal Geographical Society. It was his ability to weave personal notes of the protagonists of the battles and the background historical and political aspects leading to the war that made his tours stirring and vivid.

We also went on a short Zulu Village tour. On the afternoon of our arrival, Dalton Lindizwe Ngobese, a Zulu historian from a nearby village and member of the International Guild of Battlefield Guides who worked at Isandlwana, spent two hours telling us about modern day Zulu life and customs. As we walked he shared cultural insights about traditional healers (although the healer was out of town we briefly saw the local healer’s building and met the healer’s trainee, a somber young woman with a toddler at her side), Zulu society, the role of cattle, education and related issues. We also visited the smoky building of the ancestors of a nearby family who participated in the tour program.

Curio Shop The small shop near the reception desk carried branded clothing, battlefield books, local curios and related items. For sale were also Robert Gerrard’s Anglo Zulu War, Anglo Boer War and People of the Heavens and a collection of seven historical CDs of his talks on the battles of the Anglo Zulu and Anglo Boer wars.

Other The lodge is built on the side of the Nyoni Rock just under where the Zulu Commander stood during the Battle of Isandlwana on January 22,1879. It overlooks Mount Isandlwana and a plain. There was a satellite television and VCR available in the media room.

The Mangwe Buthanani Traiditional Authority worked with the two American investors, Maggie Bryant and Patt Stubbs, who built the lodge. The local Zulu community is part owner of the lodge (up to 10 percent) and receives a part of the gross revenue though the Isandlwana Community Tribal Trust for schools, clinics and community projects.

Bryant is former chairperson of the Fish and Wildlife Foundation in the United States. Projects benefiting the community, above and beyond the revenue generated by the lodge, were implemented in partnership with the Wild Foundation, a United States based conservation and sustainable development non profit organization. Some of the work going on in the village included community gardens, craft making, sewing classes, and development of a computer lab in one of the elementary schools. Past lodge guests had contributed donations for various projects and a number of them had “adopted” school children, committing to pay school fees and furnishing uniforms for a year. The Impumelelo Yesandlwana (Success for the People of Islandlawana) projects included an Adopt-a-Child, Support Our Schools, Sustainable Agriculture, Food Parcels for HIV Orphans and general donations.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Review October 2009

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Juan Cooper

Service The staff were pleasant, personable, well organized and efficient. There was twice daily room service. I was surprised to discover that one of the staff cleaned my muddy boots after I commented they had gotten wet at the previous property and were still damp. They had offered to place them where they would dry easily and when they returned them they were dry and, to my delight, clean.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall The coastline is dotted with small towns, many of which serve as seasonal recreational hubs. The climate of the coastal areas is humid and subtropical, comparable to southern Florida in the United States, but not quite as hot and rainy in the summer.

Beaches are to be found along virtually every part of South Africa’s eastern seaboard, with some of the least developed gems found in the Natal.

An extraordinary natural phenomenon that is witnessed annually on the KwaZulu-Natal coast during late autumn or early winter is the “sardine run”. Also referred to as “the greatest shoal on earth”, the sardine run occurs when millions of sardines migrate from their spawning grounds south of the southern tip of Africa northwards along the Eastern Cape coastline towards KwaZulu-Natal following a path close inshore, often resulting in many fish washing up on beaches along the coast. The huge shoal of tiny fish can stretch for many kilometres and is followed and preyed upon by thousands of predators, including game fish, sharks, dolphins and seabirds.

Cost Of Visiting Reasonable

Currency South Africa Rand

Location South Africa

Transportation Rental car, taxis and private tours

Facilities Durban is a rapidly growing urban area and is by most measures the busiest port in Africa. A good rail network links the city to other areas of Southern Africa. Sugar refining is Durban’s main industry. Sheep, cattle, dairy, citrus fruits, corn, sorghum, cotton, bananas, and pineapples are also raised.

Shopping Curio shops carry ethnic souvenirs such as carvings, masks, beaded African jewelry.

Last Visit 2009

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Juan Cooper