Overall Impression It had been several years since our first stay at Singita Ebony in South Africa’s popular Sabi Sand Reserve. We knew Singita had refreshed the décor and were curious about the changes. As we walked across the bridge from the arrival parking area and our host showed us around I remembered the two level swimming pools steps from the open air main building. My eyes were immediately drawn across the new bar to the Sand River. The deck, perched on the edge of the property facing the river looked familiar, but not the same. Our friendly host explained that the deck was larger as the property had expanded the multilevel platform. And, in lieu of the bright hues of the past the color theme was neutral bush tones.

Minutes later we were exploring our double suite, a stand alone structure only steps away from the main building and adjacent deck. It instantly became a favorite. A shared glass enclosed entry foyer provided privacy while maintaining a sense of openness to the bush around us. Inside, the two 56 square meter rooms, each with its own deck and heated plunge pool, were spacious and well appointed while at the same time homey. The river and bush fronting setting was fantastic. Every day we made time to take a dip in the heated plunge pool, enjoying the solitude while soaking in the views and serenity of the nearby wilderness. With difficulty I tore myself away from my luxurious cocoon for the twice daily game drives, to swim laps in the full size swimming pool, workout and enjoy a treatment at the spa, and visit the well stocked gift shop and art gallery a short drive away.

Immediately before the afternoon game drive there was an elaborate tea service with a choice of beverages and petit fours. Thirty minutes was scarcely enough time to meet new arrivals, engage in conversation and indulge in the variety of treats. We headed out on the game drive with hearts and bellies content, eager for a Big Five encounter.

In addition to the natural setting, Big Five (and cheetah) sightings, stylish furnishings and my suite, what I most remember was the efficient and friendly service. When a well worn flip flop broke we attempted to purchase a replacement at the Singita shop only to discover there were none available. On hearing about it the staff volunteered a temporary solution. A resourceful staff member glued it so well it lasted through the end of the trip.

We liked the refreshed décor, including the new deck space, especially the shady corners during the hot lunch hours, facing the partly dry riverbed. From the chocolate in the mini bar (a rare find on safari) and watercolor kit in the riverside room, to the attentive service and posh accommodations Singita Ebony set a high bar for safari luxury.

Children The property welcomed children of all ages without any restrictions.

Class of Accommodation Luxury Safari Lodge

General Manager Chantelle Maritz, who was there during our stay, and Kobus De Kock

Handicapped Access The property welcomed blind, deaf and wheelchair bound guests.

Length of Stay Three nights

Location In the Singita Reserve within the western Sabi Sand Reserve, which is adjacent to the Kruger National Park.

Number of Employees About 80

Owned and Managed Luke Bailes

Size The lodge had 12 rooms. The Singita Reserve, shared by Ebony and Boulders lodges and Castleton Camp was 6,000 hectares in size. The total traversing area was 18,000 hectares. The Singita Reserve was situated within the 45,000 acre Sabi Sand Reserve which was adjacent to and fenceless from the Kruger National Park.

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation The lodge opened in 1993 and the most recent renovation was in 2015.

Lobby and Common Areas The décor had changed significantly since our previous visit years earlier. Open air spaces dominated during our spring stay when hot temperatures ruled the day and the thermometer dipped thirty or more degrees fahrenheit in the evenings. Decorative features included still-life collections of antiques and artifacts, vintage campaign furniture from the Bailes family collection, wood, iron, steel and aged bronze reminiscent of the 19th century, oversized sepia photography, leopard and zebra print upholstery selected to complement bold graphic tribal patterned murals. Canvas and glass replaced internal and external walls to create safari tent-style rooms.

Bathroom One of my favorite features of the bathroom was the views of the deck, riverbed and bush it offered from almost every spot thanks to the glass walls of the room. The bathing area of the bathroom was two steps away from the bed without doors dividing the two spaces. There were twins sinks, each on a wood stand, on opposite ends of the bathroom. One set against the back wall had a large framed mirror. One set against a glass wall had a hanging, round framed mirror. A square leather stool took up the center of the bathroom. There was a clawfoot bath tub against the glass wall facing the side terrace and outdoor shower. A wood towel rack was to next to it in the corner. In the opposite corner there was a glass enclosed shower. Half a level below, reached by a few steps, a separate room at the end of the walk-in closet housed a toilet and sink.

Room I loved my room with its glass walls, doorless interior and inviting terrace, especially the heated plunge pool. Facing the main lodge building we turned left, walking at a slight upward angle on a brick path, to reach our thatched roof rooms. We stayed in adjacent Rooms 8 and 9, the Singita Ebony Lewis Suites, which shared a convenient entrance foyer with glass doors. The foyer was large enough to house two comfortable and cushioned armchairs. It provided a convenient place to wait for our staff escort at night. Oversize, self locking and swiveling wood doors lead into two Sand River fronting rooms.

The rooms, 56 square meters each, were divided into two main areas: An indoor space without interior walls and an outdoor terrace. Indoors, there was an entrance foyer and desk area, a bedroom, a bathing and ablutions space, a large walk-in closet, and a separate room with the toilet and sink. Two sliding glass doors provided access to the terrace, one next to the desk opened onto the sitting part of the porch. The other in the bathing area opened in front of the plunge pool. Outdoors, the terrace was a continuous doorless space. One side, under roof, had a comfortable sofa and two armchairs. The other had a plunge pool, two adjustable cushioned lounge chairs and a sun umbrella. In the back there was an outdoor shower. There were several vervet monkeys on my terrace the day I arrived.

The room, decorated in earth tones with safari accents, was made with a combination of concrete, glass, and canvas. The floors were of polished concrete with area rugs. The terrace floors were wood, except for the stone outdoor shower. The area of the room facing the river had glass walls, affording a river view from almost every angle. It was possible to lower a canvas cover for privacy or to shut out the daylight. The temperature was controlled via two wall-mounted air conditioning and heating units. There was also a fireplace near the desk. One night during my stay the staff surprised me with a lit fireplace on my return from the game drive. Framed photos, one oversize, on the walls broke the visual silence. There was ample lighting in the room during the day and night; during the day from soft sunlight and at night from lamps, indoors and outdoors, including a pool light. Sunlight filtered through a skylight in the darker than the rest of the room walk-in closet.

The entrance foyer had a hat stand with two hats, two cotton wraps, and a bag for guest use during the stay. Two steps led down into the desk area, which had the working fireplace, a cabinet housing the minibar and snacks, and a river facing desk with two armchairs. The staff instructed us to always lock the cabinet and minibar as the monkeys and baboons were prone to break-ins to steal the snacks.

The center of the bedroom was taken up by an oversize fourposter wood bed (from two individual side by side beds) framed by two identical round metal night tables with adjustable metal lamps. One of them also had a telephone and the air conditioning remote control. Above them hung a mosquito net from the ceiling, which the staff spread around the bed at night during the turndown service. Scent-less white linen sheets and a white duvet covered the bed. There were complemented by three pillows of different sizes and materials. The two rooms were very similar in style and furnishings. There were two animal print style armchairs, each with a cushion, on either side against the glass wall in Room 8. In Room 9, the same space was occupied by a daybed.

Beyond the two steep steps that connected a toilet room and the walk-in closet there was ample space for luggage on both sides of the doorless entrance. Above the luggage rack there were rods for ponchos and outdoor gear. An armoire also provided hanging and shelf space as well as an electronic safe. The toilet room was at the the end of the closet. A frosted window with blinds meant there was soft sunlight there. There was another window on the opposite side in the closet.

Food Mealtimes revolved around safari activities. Kitchen staff were able to adjust to food allergies and preferences with ease. In the morning, before going out on game drive there were hot beverages and muffins. Breakfast, served after the morning game drive, included several juices, such as mint apple, fruit smoothie, and kambucha with the option of powdered wheatgrass. Although there were a few items on display in the outdoor deck our servers insisted on bringing our order to the table. When breakfast was served indoors our final morning there was a self serve buffet for the cold items. There was yogurt cereal and fruit coolie as well as a fruit platter and several whole fruits available. A hot made to order menu consisted mainly of eggs with sides such as asparagus, tomatoes, potatoes, mushrooms, sausage (pork, beef, ostrich) in various styles of preparation. There were also oatmeal, pancakes, and French toast.

The lunch and dinner menus varied daily. There were salad options with fresh and crispy greens, tacos, fish, beef, lamb, and curry dishes. We loved the Sand River riverbed views from our table at breakfast, lunch and tea.

Amenities Nightly rates included twice daily game drives, meals, snacks, and house beverages. Our rooms had many amenities including: scale, vanity mirror, complimentary water, toiletries, slippers, electronic safe, complimentary mini-bar with coffee and tea service. I particularly liked the gourmet chocolate and homemade fudge.

Facilities Work out and spa building, wine room, Singita Boutique & Gallery gift shop (a short drive away and shared with sister properties).

Pool There were two adjacent outdoor swimming pools about twenty feet long by ten feet wide and about four feet deep with a waterfall feature. Because they were in the shade the water was bracingly chilly even at midday when it was warm. There were a handful of lounge chairs and towels. I loved having a heated plunge pool in my room (about ten feet long, three feet wide and four feet deep). I also enjoyed a swim during the day in the main swimming pool. It was an outstanding combination of pool amenities.

Shop There were Africa and South Africa souvenirs, including a large selection of upscale clothing, art, jewelry, and home furnishings.

Spa I had a good spa treatment with Nonkukuleko. The spa staff were friendly and attentive.

Game Viewing Joshua Bell, who had been guiding for four years and had a Field Guide Association of Southern Africa (FGASA) Level 2 trails guide qualification, was our guide. Joshua completed his degree in Environmental Sciences at a university in Leeds, United Kingdom. Our tracker, Emmanuel Makhubela, had been tracking for over 18 years, and with Singita for over 10 years. On a previous stay he had also been our tracker. He held a FGASA Tracker Level 3 qualification. We saw the Big Five and cheetah as well as other animals, birds, trees and shrubs.

We saw the following animals during our stay: baboons, buffalo, Burchell’s zebra, bushbuck, cheetah, civet, common duiker, dwarf mongoose, elephant, giraffe, grey duiker, hippopotamus, impala, klipspringer, kudu, leopard, lion, nyala, scrub hare, spotted hyena, tree squirrel, vervet monkey, warthog, white rhinoceros, wildebeest; and flap-necked chameleon.

We saw the following trees and shrubs: Russet bush willow, marula tree, jackalberry, knob thorn, large fruited bushwillow, sycamore fig, roundleafed teak.

We saw or heard the following birds: African hoopoe, bateleur eagle, bearded woodpecker, Cape glossy starling, Cape turtle dove, crested francolin, crowned lapwing, dark chanting goshawk, fork-tailed drongo, golden-tailed woodpecker, lilac-breasted roller, magpie shrike, rattling cisticola, red-billed quelea, redbilled oxpecker, sombre greenbul, southern yellow-billed hornbill, yellow-front canary, Eagle snake brown, Black-bellied bustard, black-shouldered kite, Senegal lapwing, black-crowned night heron, ostrich, stork black.

Activities Dawn and dusk game drives in an open Toyota LandCruiser were included in the nightly rates at the lodge. We shared the vehicle with two or three other guests during our stay.

Other The only sour note were over aggressive monkeys that stole food from tables and one group that intercepted me as I walked back to my room from the spa, stealing my carton of juice with practiced ease. At meal times there was a dedicated staff member tasked with guarding the dining deck from monkeys. The Singita Sabi Sand Reserve properties were Travel + Leisure No. 3 Safari Lodges in Africa in World’s Best 2016 and No. 7 in Middle East, Africa & the Indian Ocean. The property had also received Readers’ Travel Awards 2016 (United Kingdom) of Conde Nast Travellers, No. 7 in Africa Readers’ Choice Awards 2016 (United States).

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Last Visit May 2017

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Staff members were friendly, helpful, and guest oriented almost without exception. I appreciated the thoughtful touches like lighting my fireplace one night, repairing my travel partner’s broken flip flop, petit fours at dinner on request, stocking extra fudge in my room and insights on nearby specialty shops. Singita stands out among all the five star properties in that trip for its excellent service. Kennedy, Sara, Auto, Abby and Tom were among the staff who looked after us in one way or another during our stay. Our rooms were serviced twice daily.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression Lukimbi Safari Lodge, a luxury property within South Africa’s world famous Kruger National Park, stood out in our monthlong trip for the worthwhile classic safari experience we had. During the six game drives (twice daily), we saw four of the Big Five plus black rhino and cheetah. James, our ranger, made time to explain the sightings and show us birds and little creatures like microthermic termites. In addition, the lodge’s location within a private concession meant our game drives were pleasant and we rarely saw vehicles from other properties.

The smiling welcome we received on arrival at Lukimbi set the tone for our visit. Sally Kernick, one of the owners who sat with us at an open air dinner the night we arrived, shared stories of the early days of the property. One of the aspects we most enjoyed at the lodge was the staff’s warm and guest oriented attitude. From Danielle and Shelley at the front desk to Thobile, our server who always had a ready smile, and Ryan Cranko, executive chef, the staff members we met were willing to go the extra mile for our comfort.

The lodge was named after the elusive legendary Lukimbi, half lion and half eagle owl. Local traditional or verbal history tells the story of the mighty Toto walking near the banks of the Lwakahle River that winds through the front of the lodge. Screams from the river drew him to the waters edge where Ntombi, his betrothed, had gone to the river to get water when Mbisi, the largest crocodile in the river, clamped her leg in his jaws. Toto jumped into the water to rescue her, fighting the crocodile until the river waters were stained with blood. When the great Nkulukulu looked down from the heavens he took pity on Toto and Ntombi, turning them into Lukimbi, half giant eagle owls and half lions said to have the wisdom of the owl and the strength of the lion and tasked with safeguarding travelers in the African bush. An artist’s interpretation of the hybrid creature could be seen around the property carved on wood and other surfaces.

The pretty view of the Lwakahle River and the Kruger National Park as we descended the steep steps from reception to the main area was so distracting we have to take care not to trip on our way down. The classic safari rooms were spacious and comfortable. From our rooms and the common areas we could see the riverbed and sometimes wildlife by the water. One of my favorite memories of Lukimbi was the time I spent sitting on my deck listening to the sounds of nature, enjoying the cool afternoon breeze and watching the river bank for animals and the trees for colorful birds. Thanks to the elevated walkways when we walked in open shoes our feet remained dirt free.

I remember the lodge for its spacious rooms and open air common areas, cleanliness, fresh, varied and well prepared meals, rewarding game viewing in an exclusive park concession, and pleasant service. I would gladly return and recommend it to friends and family who enjoy understated classic safari properties and quality game viewing in an uncrowded setting. The outstanding game viewing, comfortable accommodations, abundant food and friendly service would temp us to return to Lukimbi.

Children Yes, the property welcomed children from two years of age and older. We saw children in the common areas, in the playroom, and in the dining room. Although most were well behaved, there were two children jumping, screaming and splashing unsupervised in the pool. When their parents arrived one joined them in the pool while another one made phone calls and took photos with her mobile phone, uncaring of the disruption they were causing. Neither asked the children to quiet down.

Class of Accommodation Five Star Luxury Safari Lodge

Connectivity The lodge had a satellite connection, which was “not fast.”

General Managers Sean and Shelley Smith

Handicapped Access There was one wheelchair friendly room. There were stairs in the common areas.

Length of Stay Three nights

Location 91 kilometers from Kruger Mpumalanga Airport in Nelspruit.

Owned and Managed Lukimbi Safari Lodge (Pty) Ltd owned by H.J Borkum, S.H Kernick, M.G Marais and L.P Marais.

Size The 33,000 acre property was on a 15,000 hectare concession within the Kruger National Park and employed 50. The lodge had 16 rooms (14 Classic Suites and two Premier Suites)

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation The lodge opened in 2002 and the most recent renovation had taken place in 2012.

Lobby and Common Areas The property was decorated in an African Barak style. Common areas were under roof and open air except for the pool deck and the boma (Africa style dirt floor dining enclosure). We arrived at a port cochere, which led via a short staircase to a reception area and desk. A gift shop was on the right and a library (with a computer for guest use) past the gift shop. A steep staircase led down to a large sitting room with a fireplace in the middle. The bar and beyond it the dinning room were to the right. To the left there were public restrooms and meeting space. One level below there were television, children’s, treatment and workout rooms. The pool was across the lawn and to the left. An elevated wood walkway connected guestrooms to the main building and common areas. The riverbed was visible from the common areas.

Bathroom While the bathroom was identified clearly there was no door diving the bedroom and bathroom. The most notable feature was the oversize glass window by the concrete bathtub facing the river and bush. It added natural light to the room and the expansive bush view served as a reminder that we were on safari. In addition to the oval bathtub there was a glass enclosed shower. From the doorless shower on the right side of the room I could also see the bush. The toilet, in its own enclosure in the back of the bathroom, required a soft touch. An armoire provided hanging and storage space. A wood door opened onto an outdoor shower, a favorite. Twin sinks atop a tile base took up the left side of the bathroom. A cushioned cloth bench was in the center of the bathroom in front of the bathtub.

Room From the main building we walked past the conference area onto an elevated wood walkway to our north facing air conditioned rooms with thatched roofs. I opened the wood door using a key hanging from a large wood key ring. We stayed in rooms W6 and W7, two neighboring 57 square meter Classic Suites on the west side of the lodge. Inside, the room was decorated in natural tones and divided into four main areas: sleeping, living, bathroom and back deck.

A large bed framed by identical night tables took up the center of the sleeping area on the left side of the room from the entrance door. A mosquito netting frame hung above the bed. There was a bench at the foot of the bed. At turndown, the staff placed a large mosquito net around the bed and night tables. Against the wall near the door there was a luggage rack. There was a second luggage rack next to the bathroom entrance. To the right of the door a wood cabinet housed a mini bar on the bottom and a hot beverage service on the top.

Although there were signs of wear and tear in the room (the wood floor was worn, the toilet seat had a scratch in the paint, and the faucets required extra effort to keep the water from dripping) it was clean, the furnishings were comfortable and everything was in working order. Across the room from the sleeping area and two steps down there was a living area with wood flooring, a love seat, an armchair, and a coffee table. Sliding glass and wood doors and matching screen doors led onto a canvas covered wood deck. The left side had a privacy wood stick wall. It was furnished with two wood cushioned armchairs with foot rests. There was also a built-in wood bench against the wall on the right side. Next to the bench there was an upright wood ashtray. The deck had an expansive view of the small Lwakahlesmall River and Kruger National Park on the north side of the river. The river and park views from the deck, the living area and the bathroom were my favorite feature of the room. Also, from my deck I could see my neighbor’s decks on both sides of my room. Features included polished concrete floors, thatched ceiling, temperature control (an air conditioning and heating wall unit and a ceiling fan), ample lighting at night, feather pillows and duvets, double curtains, windows with screens in the bedroom and bathroom, and a glass wall in the bathroom facing the park. During the day natural sunlight filtered through oversize windows above the sliding glass doors as well as through side windows in the bedroom and bathroom.

Food Meals were served buffet style with some dishes made to order. We sat at the table of our choice in an open air dining room. A handful of tables placed on the edge of the deck facing the river had a splendid view of the property, pool, river and bush. The chef and staff were able to accommodate dietary preferences and allergies for meals and snacks. Our server brought fresh baked bread and often pointed to gluten free buffet options. Examples of lunch selections included: green salad, olives, tzatziki, harissa, babaganoush, sun dried tomato and goat cheese quiche, sesame and maple baby carrots, broccoli and bacon salad, Nicoise salad, Thai salmon fish cakes, and springbok carpaccio with fruit salad, cheese board and peppermint crisp trifle for dessert. Dinner consisted of three courses from a set menu with two to three options per course.

Meals were served at the following times: Breakfast was between 8:30 and 9:30 a.m. Lunch was at 2 p.m., and dinner was between 7 and 8 p.m. Except on boma (an enclose roofless area) night when we shared a table with other guests, we had a private table for all our meals in a shared dining area. I liked the iced homemade lemonade made with sparkling water. Room service was available for a supplementary fee (100 rand).

Amenities In the bathroom, there were two cotton bathrobes, slippers, individual size Charlotte Rhys soap (there was one bar in each area of the bathroom for added convenience, one in the sink, one by the bathtub, and one in the outdoor shower enclosure), and house toiletries in refillable plastic bottles (body lotion, shampoo, conditioner and shower gel). There was also complementary water in the evenings, an electronic safe, mosquito repellent spray, two umbrellas and a hair dryer.

The nightly rate included accommodations, three meals a day, two daily game drives and an optional guided walk. We liked the convenience of being able to reach other rooms as well as the staff thanks to phones in our rooms.

Each night at turndown, the staff left a printed copy of a short Africa themed story and a complementary 500 milliliter bottle of house brand still water. There were too coffee table books and two wildlife magazines in my room. There was direct dial phone service in the room and complementary Wi-Fi. There was DSTV coverage in a single television in a common area room. Also, there were DVDs available on loan from the reception and a board games. Every time we returned from a game drive one of the staff members provided moist hand cloths. At breakfast there was a daily single sheet print out with a news summary, weather and other tidbits.

Facilities There was a library, bar, fitness room and adjacent treatment rooms, plunge pool, children’s playrooms indoors and outdoors, sitting room, open air meeting space, river fronting open air dining area, chapel, gift shop, television room and wine cellar.

Fitness and Spa There was a workout room with weights station, Running Machine, Cycle, and a Step Machine. The treatment room, in the back of the workout room, was nine square meters.

Connectivity There was cell phone service within the common areas and in our rooms. There was complementary Wi-Fi in the common areas and rooms.

Pool There was a free form river fronting pool, eight meters by four meters in size and two meters deep, and deck with a kiddie pool on one side and a deeper section on the other. Some 10 cushioned lounge chairs were laid out around the pool deck at varying heights. When I finally had a moment to relax by the pool a loud and inconsiderate family of four arrived, screaming across the pool deck, splashing and running around as if they were in their own backyard.

Shop The curio shop had a selection of souvenirs, small hair items, glassware, branded clothing, soft toys and books.

Game Viewing James Ndhlovu was our guide and Themba Ngwenya was our tracker. James had been with Lukimbi Safari Lodge since 2007. He started as a tracker with Lukimbi and in 2015 obtained his full walking qualifications and became a qualified trails guide. Themba joined Lukimbi in December 2016. Prior to Lukimbi he had positions at other lodges as a tracker.

We saw the following mammals: buffalo, Burchell’s zebra, cheetah, civet, elephants, giraffe, hippopotamus, impala, lion, scrub hare, slender mongoose, spotted hyena, steenbok, vervet monkey, warthog, waterbuck, white rhinoceros, Wild dog, Black rhinoceros; insects and repties: microthermic termites, flap-necked chameleon, Nile crocodile, Puff adder, and skink.

We saw or heard the following birds: African grey hornbill, African hawk eagle, bateleur eagle, blue waxbill, Burchell’s starling, Cape glossy starling, crowned lapwing, double-banded sandgrouse, Egyptian goose, emerald-spotted wood-dove, go-away-bird, helmeted guineafowl, lilac-breasted roller, magpie shrike, Natal francolin, red billed hornbill, redbilled oxpecker, saddle-billed stork, Swainson’s spurfowl, tawny eagle, white-backed vulture, woolly-necked stork, eagle snake brown, eagle martial, African mourning dove, purple roller, lappet faced vulture, yellow billed roller, kori bustard, white egret, pearl owl, African jacana, African wattled lapwing.

Activities There were morning and afternoon game drives in a Landrover Defender with a canvas top, about three hours long, as well as optional guided walks after breakfast. There were no stops during any of the drives. We went on six game drives and shared the vehicle with a family of four.

We had excellent game viewing with quality sightings. Often we were the only vehicle. Sometimes we crossed paths with other vehicles from the property at an important sighting. When it rained our guide offered us ponchos. The top of the vehicle helped to keep the worse of the light rain off of us. The poncho smelled unpleasant.

Other San Parks named Lukimbi Business Partner of the year in 2015. In 2016, the property received the Diners Platinum award for its wine list.

Because the area around the lodge was not fenced in (there was a three strand electric fence surrounding the lodge to deter elephants) animals roamed freely. We often saw impala in the area adjacent to the room and the common areas. I also saw monkeys and a bat. At night we had to be escorted by a staff member to our rooms from the game drive arrival area, and to and from the dining room for dinner. The property recommended guess not leave anything outside their rooms because monkeys and hyenas had been known to steal unattended items in the past.

Although the rooms were smoke-free, guests were invited to smoke on their deck. We also saw guests smoking in the common areas. As part of the check in process we were required to sign a lengthy double sided liability release. The tap water was well water, which while due to its high calcium content had a slightly unpleasant taste, was potable. Due to an area wide drought there was a limit of six items of laundry per day. I left my laundry in the basket before going on the morning game drive and the clean laundry arrived by the time I was back in my room after lunch. Check out was at 10:30 a.m.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Last Visit April 2017

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our rooms were serviced twice daily while we were on game drives, in the morning and in the afternoon for turndown. Throughout the property staff were friendly and helpful. Service was warm and attentive. Staff responded to requests with alacrity and efficiency. The dining room staff, especially Empress, Thobeli, and Lybor who looked after us, were unfailingly pleasant and detail oriented. At reception, Danielle was patient and helpful as was Shelly. James and Themba, our guide and tracker, were knowledgeable about animals and birds. James drove well, taking care to slow down for bumps in the road and to warn us when there were thorns brushing the side of the vehicle.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression Thornybush Game Lodge, a Five Star property within the Big Five Thornybush Private Nature Reserve in South Africa, faced the seasonal Monwana River (at the time of our visit the riverbed was dry). The handsome lodge was named for one of the original farms in the area. I remember it best for its outstanding game viewing, made even better because we had an experienced private guide, tracker and open safari vehicle to ourselves.

We were glad to be staying in two of the ten renovated rooms, but beginning at 7 a.m. and throughout the day anytime I was in my room I could hear worker conversation and loud  pounding and drilling at the adjacent room undergoing renovation, which was active on the Sunday of our arrival and an eyesore on the way to and from our rooms. The noise detracted from my enjoyment of the room, making it impossible to relax while the site was active. We could hear the hammering across the property on the outdoor deck where we had meals and afternoon tea.

After hours, animal sounds and visits enhanced my stay. For example, the wonderful insistent roaring of a lion woke me in the middle of the night. The following morning, I discovered a male lion, the one roaring the previous night, had walked through our lodge common areas. Also, there were baboons barking in the early morning and later climbing on my roof and outdoor shower.

I liked my 45 square meter well appointed contemporary style room, the wildlife viewing (we saw four of the Big Five), including outstanding lion and elephant sightings, comfort food, and friendly and attentive service. I would return and recommend it to friends.

Children Children over the age of six were welcome on game drives, but not walks. Decisions were at the discretion of the lodge manager and ranger. Families in a private vehicle were welcome to take children under six years of age.

Class of Accommodation Five Star Luxury Game Lodge

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi with speed of one megabyte per second in and out. In my room at times it was down.

General Manager Melanie Parker

Handicapped Access Yes, the property welcomed guests in wheelchairs. There were steps in the common areas.

Length of Stay Two nights

Location The lodge was within the Thornybush Private Nature Reserve, about a 30 minute drive to Eastgate Airport.

Number of Employees 65

Owned and Managed Inzalo Investment Holdings (Pty) Ltd doing business as The Thornybush Collection

Size There were 20 guestrooms and several buildings scattered across the property located within a 14,000 hectare reserve.

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation The lodge had operated commercial leases in the 1960s. A rebuilding and renovation took place in the 1990s ending in 2000. A major refurbishment began in March 2016 and was taking place during our stay. Ten of the twenty rooms had been refurbished.

Lobby and Common Areas The decorative style of the property and rooms was Contemporary Safari. The property, divided into several buildings, had soaring thatched roofs, open air common areas and safari memorabilia. From the arrivals parking area we first entered an open building housing a sitting room, office, gift shop, public rest rooms and library. The dining room, bar and swimming pool were at a lower level and across the lawn from the main building facing the dry riverbed. The spa was in its own structure to the right of the main building. Guestrooms, in individual buildings, stretched along the riverfront to either side of the dining room and pool area.

Bathroom A partial wall and double wood and glass doors divided the bedroom and the bathroom. The bathroom was pretty and designed to emphasize exterior views. It had a gray color theme, faux marble tile flooring, gray polished concrete walls, and large glass walls on two sides, providing views of the surrounding bush and wildlife. On the side facing the bush there was a standalone bathtub, small round wood table and a doorless shower with wood floor. On the opposite side, twins sinks sat on a Corian counter base beneath rectangular wood framed mirrors. There was an area rug in the middle of the bathroom. In the corner opposite the shower a separate room housed the toilet. A glass and wood door led to an outdoor shower with a rock privacy wall. The outdoor shower also had bush views.

Room To reach our rooms we walked through the dining deck, making our way across a suspended wood bridge and several wide steep steps. After passing an active and loud construction site we arrived at our rooms, which were mirror images of each other. They were handsome, had luxury amenities and would have been comfortable except for the loud daylong noises from the adjacent construction. We stayed in neighboring 45 square meter open plan Luxury Suites 6 and 7 that looked onto thick brush and the Monwana River dry riverbed. The entrances faced each other, making it convenient as we were steps away from each other’s doors.

Each room was a standalone structure with a thatched roof ceiling and concrete walls. Double wood doors with low hard to open handles (to keep monkeys and baboons from opening them) led into our new looking rooms. Inside, they had wood laminate flooring, high ceiling, white walls, and contemporary décor with classic safari elements (such as the thatched roof). The room was divided into three main areas: Indoors there was a bedroom and a bathroom, divided by double wood and glass doors; outdoors there was a partially covered wood deck and an outdoor shower to one side of the bathroom.

Two individual beds set together and framed by matching square wood night tables atop an area rug took up the center of the bedroom. They were beneath mosquito netting hanging from the ceiling. Although there were insects I didn’t see any mosquitoes. The night tables had identical lamps and one of them had a telephone. There was a comfortable love seat at the foot of the bed. To one side there was a low table that served as a luggage rack. A cabinet in the corner housed a mini bar and hot beverage service. In the opposite corner, there was a vanity with a fabric armchair. Sliding glass doors divided the bedroom and the exterior deck. Blackout curtains provided privacy and kept out the sun in the early morning in case we wanted to sleep in. We had to keep the doors closed at all times to keep monkeys and baboons out of the room. There were two wood armchairs and a table in the outdoor deck, which had wood flooring and railing and a partial view of the Monwana River, obstructed by much thick brush.

The temperature was controlled via a wall-mounted air conditioning and heating unit, and heated pads under our sheets (a favorite). During the day, sunlight filtered through the sliding glass doors filling the room. In the evening, ceiling and wall lamps provided sufficient lighting to read.

There were four synthetic pillows and a synthetic duvet as well as two polyester throws on the bed. Although the mosquito netting wrapped around the bed and night tables, forming a large enclosed space around the bed, it had a whole large enough for mosquitoes to enter.

Food Breakfast was buffet style. Lunch and dinner were sometimes plated and sometimes buffet style. We dined at private tables, usually on the main outdoor deck next to the dry riverbed. Solly, the Head Chef, had been at the property for 15 years. “Our style of cooking is very much influence by South African flavours, with the use of a lot of fresh produce sourced from local community gardens,” the property manager explained.

At lunch the first day, we ordered from a three course menu. Our salad greens were fresh and crispy. I had a rocket salad with mild soft Bocconicini cheese and my travel partner had a house salad with olives and feta cheese. Lunch the second day was served in a buffet table including lettuce, tomatoes, feta cheese, sliced cucumbers, olives; roquette and roasted pear with cheese salad; green beans, red peppers and corn salad; quail with sweet chili sauce, and vegetable quiche. For dessert the options were cheeses and pecan pie with cream.

Afternoon tea consisted of iced beverages (lemonade, tea) and butter cookies. Dinner our first evening was served in the boma buffet style. Our ranger sat with us at dinner that night. The first course, tomato basil soup, was plated. The remainder of the meal was self-service and consisted of salad items, three choices of meat from the grill (springbok, chicken skewers, South African style, beef sausage), a polenta style dish, spicy Indian tagine, and other side dishes. For dessert there was apple crumb cake, a selection of cheeses and fresh fruit. An a la carte dinner the second night was served on the deck. We tried both starters, the Fried brie cheese with sesame seeds on a salad and the Butternut with cinnamon soup. For mains we sampled the impala shank and the chicken stuffed with sun dried tomatoes. For dessert there were three choices, including cheese and fresh fruit. We had fresh fruit.

Amenities In addition to accommodations, the nightly fee included meals, bottled water, hot beverages, snacks, two daily game drives, an optional bush walk, and beverages during the game drives. In our rooms there were South African lifestyle and wildlife magazines and complimentary bird and animal checklists. Via the telephone in my room I could connect within the lodge and make outside calls. There was limited to 24 hour laundry service.

In each room, there were two polyester bathrobes, slippers, two house brand individual size soaps, bath salts, shower cap, and South African Charlotte Rhys toiletries in refillable plastic bottles (liquid soap, shampoo, conditioner, bathroom deodorizer). There were also two bags of The Treat Company snacks (rosemary and rock salt potato chips, honey macadamia nuts, and chewy candy), insect repellent, odorless insect spray, electronic safe, flashlight, blow dryer, complimentary house brand still water, Caffitaly espresso coffee maker (coffee capsules and tea bags), hot water pitcher, one lemon and one apple, and a mini bar with beverages and snacks for sale.

Facilities The lodge had a 50 square meter library with satellite television, bar, spa, pool, boma (enclosed open air outdoor dining area usually with sand floor) and curio shop.

Pool There was a 70 square meter four foot deep (estimated) outdoor pool adjacent to the dry riverbed of the Monwona River. While it looked inviting it was too chilly during our stay to go swimming. There were some ten lounge chairs and a handful of umbrellas.

Shop There was a limited selection of branded clothing for men and women in synthetic and natural fibers, costume jewelry, and curios.

Spa Operated by a separate company the spa was made up of a waiting area and two 25 square meter treatment rooms. The towels were fresh smelling. Emily provided an adequate deep tissue and foot massage.

Game Viewing Joe Ngwenya was our ranger and Alson Masiya was our tracker. Joe had been a ranger for about 15 years, he was a Field Guides of South Africa (FGASA) Level 2 guide with Full Trails.

We saw the following animals: baboons, buffalo, Burchell’s zebra, elephants, giraffe, grey duiker, hippopotamus, impala, kudu, large spotted genet, leopard, lion, nyala, scrub hare, vervet monkey, warthog, wildebeest.

We saw or heard the following birds African fish eagle, African hoopoe, brown-hooded kingfisher, Burchell’s starling, common quail, crested barbet, fork-tailed drongo, go-away-bird, helmeted guineafowl, jacobin cuckoo, lilac-breasted roller, rattling cisticola, red billed hornbill, southern white-crowned shrike, Wahlberg’s eagle, white-backed vulture, white-crested helmet-shrike, Yellow breasted appalis, Gabar goshawk.

Activities Twice daily game drives about three hours long and optional bush walks were available. We went on four game drives during our stay. We were the only passengers aboard a new open top Toyota LandCruiser safari vehicle. It was equipped with blankets and rain ponchos. For bush stops there were paper bags and tissue paper. We liked that Joe also had a bird book to identify birds we encountered on the drives.

Our wake up call was at 5:30 a.m. and departure for the morning game drive was 6 a.m. In the afternoon, tea was at 3:30 p.m. and departure for the game drive was at around 4 p.m. The lodge was one of many within the reserve. Only two vehicles were allowed per sighting. At every major sighting we had to wait or there were vehicles waiting for us to move on for them to have an opportunity.

Other We were required to sign a broad disclaimer of liability form on check in. Although the tap water was potable it didn’t taste very well so the lodge provided complimentary bottled water for our use. Tipping was discretionary. The lodge provided tipping recommendations as follows: ranger, 170 rand per person per day; tracker, 100 rand per person per day; butler, 50 rand per person per day; and general staff, 75 rand per person per day. Check out was at 11 a.m.

The lodge was in a malaria zone and strongly suggested visitors take appropriate precautions before arriving. Guestrooms were sprayed frequently with insecticide, according to the in room folder. Reception was open from 7:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. According to the in room folder, the lodge was a member of a medical rescue organization, which provided emergency response by fixed wing planes and helicopters.

The lodge was open to animals within the reserve, including predators. Although a fence surrounded the property to prevent elephants from entering they could and did break through often. At night we had to be escorted to and from our rooms by a designated property representative (an outside company provided security staff).

The Thornybush Nature Reserve covered 100 square kilometers and was 580 meters above sea level near the Kruger National Park. The habitat was described as predominately savanna and grassland with deciduous and evergreen trees.

The lodge was listed in the Conde Nast 2015 Readers Choice Awards Best in the World Resorts under South Africa Top as the 11 placed lodge. As part of The Thornybush Collection the lodge supported The Thornybush Community Projects, a nonprofit organization, which according to the company website, supported a variety of initiatives such as herb and vegetable gardens to supply lodge kitchens, educational programs for local children, and assistance for farm workers with HIV/Aids and tuberculosis.

Cleanliness Very good

Date of Last Visit May 2017

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our rooms were serviced twice daily, in the morning and for turn down. Grace, our server in the dining room, who had been at the lodge for 23 years, was service oriented and friendly. So were our ranger, the gift shop attendant and the spa staff.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression Earth Lodge, one of four safari properties within the Big Five Sabi Sabi Reserve in South Africa’s well known Sabi Sand Reserve, offered a balanced combination of outstanding and quality game viewing, well appointed rooms designed for comfort, luxury facilities and amenities, a gourmet orientation and friendly attentive service. I appreciated the availability of onsite spa treatments and the workout room with glass walls facing a water feature. In the early morning, dozens of twittering birds drew my attention during my exercise hour.

The name of the reserve, Sabi Sabi, was derived from the name of the Sabie River, which forms the southern boundary of the property. The word sabi is derived from the Shangaan (a local language) word “savu” which means “fear,” referring to the dangers associated with the river such as crocodiles and hippopotamuses as well as floods; and indirectly the name means “fear fear,” a spokesperson explained. Although there was no barrier separating us from the surrounding wildlife we felt no such apprehension. From the comfort of our seats in the dining room we watched a warthog family eating grass almost within touching distance. Later during our stay, a herd of elephants quenched their thirst from the water feature while we watched their antics from the shade of the main building. We looked forward to the twice daily game drives with Franscois Rosslee, our energetic and enthusiastic ranger. In his company we saw four of the Big Five and the elusive wild dogs.

Conradie Kruger, head chef, and his staff dedicated much effort to food preparation, presentation and dining location. For example, on our first night they surprised us with a semi private dinner shared with another couple and our ranger in the cellar. The following night we enjoyed cocktails by the fire pit and dined on the lawn beneath a starry sky. We looked forward to meal times and not just for the settings.

At Earth Lodge time disappeared in the blink of an eye, leaving me wanting to linger longer by the main area water feature, in a comfy hanging lawn chair with an expansive view of the bush and any four legged visitors or poolside in my spacious and secluded Amber Presidential Suite. It was with regret that we left after two nights, and we look forward to returning in the future.

Children The lodge welcomed children 13 years old and older. Families with younger children were welcome if they booked the entire lodge exclusively. There were only adults at the lodge during our stay.

Class of Accommodation Luxury Five star Safari Lodge

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi. Because of the location of the lodge, the signal could be interrupted due to wildlife influences or inclement weather.

General Managers Bridget and Heath Thompson

Handicapped Access No, there were no designated handicapped friendly rooms or facilities. To reach our rooms we walked down dirt pathways. From the main pathway several steps led to the room entrance.

Length of Stay Two nights

Location Earth Lodge was within the Sabi Sabi Reserve, which in turn was within the Sabi Sand Wildtuin, a private wildlife conservation area. The nearest airport was in Skukuza in the Kruger National Park, about 60 minutes drive from Earth Lodge. There was also a private airstrip on the reserve about 10 minutes drive from the property.

Managed African Cultural Tours (Pty) Ltd., Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve

Number of Employees 52

Owned Hilton and Jacqui Loon

Size Vehicles from the 6,000 hectare Sabi Sabi Reserve were able to traverse 4,500 hectares of game viewing land. There were 12 Luxury Suites and one Amber Presidential Suite.

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation Earth Lodge opened in 2001. The lodge was fully refurbished in 2010 with continuous upgrades through 2016. Recent work included soft upgrades, new décor and furniture, a new wine cellar, and a new fire pit lounge.

Lobby and Common Areas It is difficult to do justice to the property’s architectural and distinctive decorative style. Photos provide a partial impression. We especially liked the central garden and water feature and the lodge’s bush fronting unobtrusive open air design and comfortable yet stylish furnishings. A salient feature in the main building were chairs in a shallow pool of water. They were popular in the summer our hosts explained when I asked about them. Promotional materials described Earth Lodge as “a masterpiece of innovative architecture, organic design and dramatic minimalism which are the cornerstones of this award-winning and internationally renowned game lodge,” and a “true reflection of an African lodge, Earth Lodge embodies the spirit of South Africa and takes its cue from the vast mineral wealth of the country, with veins of these elements subtly reflected in décor and furnishings throughout the lodge.” It had original handcrafted works of art in the main areas and in the guestrooms.

Bathroom From the bedroom a few steps to the left there was space for luggage, a walk-in closet and a doorless bathroom. To the right of the entrance there were twins sinks built into a earth tone base and set beneath a rectangular frameless mirror almost the length of the wall. Next to the sinks in the corner was a doorless shower. It had a glass wall facing the bathroom and a partial glass wall facing the back terrace, the pool and the bush. Opposite the sinks was an over large, polished concrete oval shaped bathtub. Sliding glass doors opened the bathroom onto the back terrace and pool. The toilet was in its own room with a door. Outside, to the left of the terrace there was an outdoor shower.

The Presidential Suite main bathroom had twin sinks, twin showers in a doorless space with a glass wall facing an inner sand garden, and outdoor shower. The bathroom also had an oversize, oval concrete bathtub next to a a glass wall facing the bush. There was a second bathroom in the hallway with a shower.

Room We stayed in Room 4, an 80 square meter Luxury Suite, and in the 220 square meter one-bedroom, two bathroom Amber Presidential Suite. Both were in standalone structures, had polished concrete floors, area rugs, large bead chandeliers, private plunge pools and the same type of décor and art work as the lodge common areas. The furniture was comfortable and pretty. It was pleasant to spend time between game drives in our rooms.

From the main building dirt pathways led to the rooms. From the pathway the conical shape of the top of Room 4 was visible. The rest of the room was built into the landscape. Several concrete steps and walls led to the wood entrance door. The entrance foyer had a high thatched roof ceiling with a modern twig design lamp hanging in the middle of a sitting space atop an area rug. It was furnished with two cloth armchairs with a round table between them. To the left there was an upright fan. To the right an armoire housed a mini bar with a mini refrigerator and a hot beverage service. Expansive windows faced the covered back terrace, pool and bush.

Behind the sitting space was a second sitting area with a cloth sofa framed by identical upright lamps. In the center there was a rectangular glass and metal coffee table atop a cowhide. Opposite the sofa a large wood piece attached to the wall served as a desk. There was an armless chair next to it. There were snacks, a telephone, informational folders, sherry and a one liter bottle of still Aqua Pure spring water on top of it.

A large bed atop an area rug, framed by identical rectangular night tables with lamps, was set against the back wall. The temperature was controlled by a ceiling air conditioning unit and a fan. At night, there were plenty of lights providing ample lighting. During the day, sliding glass doors, windows, and two skylights filled the room with soft sunlight.

The Presidential Suite had a bush and pool facing master bedroom, spacious en suite bathroom and oversize walk-in closet. There was also a second full bathroom, library, living room, dining room and kitchenette.

The living room had a fireplace, sliding glass doors leading to a covered terrace that ran the length of the suite. Next to it the dining room had seating for six. The library had a glass top desk and an armless wicker chair as well as sliding door access to the covered terrace.

Food With the exception of one dinner we dined alone at our own table. Following a wake up call at 5:30 a.m. we gathered in the main building for tea and rusks (extra crunchy mildly sweet cookies good for dunking) before our game drive. We had breakfast after the game drive (at around 9 a.m.) and lunch at about 1 p.m. in an open air dining room. High tea, served at 3:30 p.m. immediately before the game drive, was elaborate with a variety of tempting treats and beverage options. It was a favorite. Dinner was at 7:30 p.m. The kitchen adapted exceptionally well to dietary restrictions and preferences for meals and snacks. For example, the chef kindly prepared a separate tray of gluten free items for the afternoon tea service. And whenever there were snacks he prepared separate gluten free snacks.

The reserve’s meal philosophy was “Simple Done Well” defined as “Simply prepared but executed with class and focusing on flavour over fuss.” According to a spokesperson, the chefs took “great pride in keeping menus fresh and updated on a regular basis, matching seasons and trends;” featuring well known ingredients, such as beef, pork, lamb and chicken and venison dishes such as kudu, impala and gemsbok; they designed menus to suit many palates; as far as possible the chefs “try their best to stick to grass fed and pasture raised options despite the remote location.”

Amenities Included in the nightly rate were twice daily game drives, “environmental awareness walking safaris,” meals, snacks and water. In the room there were Keet & Monks bath products (shower and bath gel, shampoo, body lotion, conditioner); slippers; bathrobes, electronic safe, complimentary bottled water, Nespresso machine, vanity kit, hot beverage (tea and coffee) service, air conditioning, hairdryer, and sherry. There were also animal check lists for guest use.

Facilities Amani Spa, Boutique Shop, Gym, Wine Cellar, Bar, Library and Lounge.

Fitness Center and Spa There was an air conditioned workout room in a standalone building facing a water feature. It housed two treadmills, rowing machine, spin bicycle, weight machine and small circuit area. Steps from the main building a garden of succulent plants signaled the beginning of the lodge spa.

Shop Behind reception there was a shop with items sourced predominantly from South Africa including branded clothing (limited selection of sizes), jewelry, coffee table books, art, and accessories.

Game Viewing Our ranger, Franscois Rosslee, had six years of experience and was certified as Full Trails Guide Level 2 by the Field Guides Association of Southern Africa (FGASA). Our tracker was Louis Mkhansi.

Our guide showed us several plant species, including Russet bush willow, Apple leaf, Marula tree, Knob thorn, Sycamore fig, Leadwood, Silver cluster-leaf, Red bushwillow, Devil’s thorn. During a sundowner drink stop one evening, he used a special light to show us the yellow-legged-tree-scorpions that infested dead trees.

We saw the following animals: rock monitor, buffalo, Burchell’s zebra, dwarf mongoose, elephants, giraffe, impala, kudu, leopard, lion, nyala, scrub hare, side-striped jackal, spotted hyena, tree squirrel, warthog, waterbuck, wildebeest, wild dog.

We saw or heard the following birds: African fish eagle, African hoopoe, arrow-marked babbler, blue waxbill, Burchell’s starling, Cape glossy starling, Cape turtle dove, common scimitarbill, crowned lapwing, fork-tailed drongo, go-away-bird, greater blue-eared glossy starling, green woodhoopoe, grey heron, grey-headed bush-shrike, hammerkop, magpie shrike, Natal francolin, pearl-spotted owlet, red billed hornbill, southern yellow-billed hornbill, spotted eagle-owl, Swainson’s spurfowl, tawny eagle, Verreaux’s eagle owl, Cinammon-breasted bunting, Pied crow, African mourning dove, Purple roller, Lesser striped swallow.

Activities There were two daily game viewing drives in an open Toyota LandCruiser safari vehicle, in the early morning around dawn and in the late afternoon around sunset. We went on four game drives and one bush walk during our stay. During that time we shared the vehicle with two other guests for three out of the four game drives.

Other As with all the safari properties we visited in South Africa, Earth lodge required that we sign an exhaustive indemnity release as part of the check in process. After dark a staff person escorted us to and from our rooms. The Sabi Sabi Reserve properties, including Earth Lodge, were members of the National Geographic Unique Lodges of the World. In 2016, the reserve received two stars for Best Design and Most Original Wine List by The World of Fine Wine, a magazine, website and app.

The majority of the staff were from and lived in the local communities of Huntington, Lillydale and Justicia. The Sabi Sabi properties community projects focused on ecotourism, education and community with and eye on sustainability, ownership and accountability, according to promotional materials.

Cleanliness Very good

Date of Last Visit April 2017

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our rooms were serviced twice daily. Our ranger and tracker, the managers, and chef were pleasantly friendly and service oriented.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression Built on the banks of the Manyeleti River facing the Manyeleti Plains in the north of South Africa’s famed Sabi Sand Reserve, Simbambili Game Lodge offered very good game viewing, luxury amenities and facilities, attentive service, tasty meals, and comfortable rooms with outdoor decks and private plunge pools. It was named, from the Swahili word simba for lion and mbili for two, for a Bremen, Germany adventurer of legend who was said to have been attacked by two lions on his first night in the bush.

We enjoyed game drives in an open safari vehicle in the company of Enoch Temba, a knowledgeable and enthusiastic guide, Derrick Mninsi, our tracker, and two to four other guests. In his company we explored the roads of the Big Five reserve (Big Four for us as we saw no buffalo) twice daily, at dawn and dusk. Also, we occasionally sighted game by the water hole across from the dining room and common area deck. The search made meal times especially engaging.

Another highlight of our stay was an excellent bush massage, with an all natural South African product line, performed in the spa shed next to the dry riverbed. Given the abundance of food on safari and the restriction on places to walk I appreciated the availability of a fitness room. Simbambili will be on our short list of safari properties in the northern end of the Sabi Sand Reserve thanks to its combination of rewarding game viewing, luxury amenities and facilities.

Children The property welcomed children 16 years of age and older without any restrictions.

Class of Accommodation Five Star Luxury Safari Lodge

Connectivity There was complementary high-speed WiFi via a four megabyte satellite connection.

General Manager Mike and Tania Cowden. They were on leave while we were at the property. The relief manager was Ronel Jacobs.

Handicapped Access No. There were steps between the entrance and the dining room and bar as well as between the main area and the path leading to guest rooms.

Length of Stay Two nights

Location In the Simbambili Reserve in the northern Sabi Sand Reserve adjacent to Kruger National Park in South Africa. The only entrance was through the Gowrie Gate. The lodge was 90 kilometers from Hoedspruit and 103 kilometers from Eastgate Airport. The global positioning system coordinates were S24.46.389 E31.28.590.

Managed The Thornybush Collection

Number of Employees 36

Owned Simbambili Game Lodge Pty (Ltd)

Size The 500 hectare Simbambili Reserve had nine rooms: seven regular rooms, one honeymoon room and one luxury waterhole room. It had traversing rights to 7,000 hectares.

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation The lodge first opened for guests November 1997 and in 2000 was incorporated into The Thornybush Collection. Following a year of construction during which the property was completely redone it reopened December 2001. In late 2005 there were renovations and in 2007 soft refurbishing work took place. Renovations were ongoing, a staff person indicated, including recent visible maintenance work on walkways as well as decks, bathrooms and soft renovations to room interiors and main areas.

Lobby and Common Areas The property was decorated in a Classic African Safari Style.

Bathroom A sliding wood door and a partial wall led to the bathroom on the left side of the room. There was an earth tone, polished concrete oval bathtub immediately next to the entrance. There were toiletries atop a small round table next to the bathtub. Across from it there was a door-less shower. Against the back wall there were twin ceramic sinks set on a built-in polished concrete block beneath twin rectangular framed mirrors. A separate room in the corner housed the toilet. On a built-in shelf there were khaki colored clean smelling linen (bath and hand towels, floor mats and pool towels). Next to the shelf there was a built-in vanity with framed mirror and stool. There was a water conservation message inviting guests to shower instead of bathing and to reuse their towels. Curtain-less sliding glass doors like the ones in the bedroom faced the open deck.

Room We stayed in Suites 2 and 5, which were nearly identical except for their distance from the main building. We reached the 50 square meter rooms by walking down brick paved walkways from the main lodge buildings (reception, gift shop, dining room, bar, lounge and deck). I liked that the pathways were brick because it was even to walk on and if I wore open shoes during the hot hours of the day my feet didn’t get dirty as they did on dirt pathways in other properties. To enter we inserted the key and pushed hard on an oversize wood swiveling door.

Each of our air conditioned rooms was in a stand alone building with a back terrace including a small covered outdoor area and private plunge 2 meter by 2.5 meter pool, which was 1.8 meters deep. Features included polished concrete floors with brick accents around the edges, high ceiling and thatched roof. The walls had a rough finish and a color matching the floor. During the day sunlight filtered in through the sliding glass doors. At night, there was ample lighting. The room was sprayed liberally with insecticide on a regular basis making it mostly it insect free.

One side was fenced in for privacy so that each room faced the bush and the next room’s fence. Inside, the rooms were shady and cool thanks to wall-mounted air conditioners with heating capacity. There was a concrete table with twin lamps in the foyer and beyond it the rest of the room and the outdoor deck could be reached and seen. Mosquito netting (with two repairs on the one in my room) hung gathered above the queen bed. The staff spread it around the bed at night.

To one side of the entrance, there was a built-in concrete luggage wrack. To the other there was a wood closet built into the wall. The right side of the closet had shelves, and an electronic safe as well as a laundry bag and some amenities (mosquito repellent, flash light, blow dryer). The bedroom could be reached through the left and right of the entrance.

The center of the room was occupied by a large bed (two individual beds set together) with matching rectangular wood night tables and lamps on either side. It was covered with a duvet and four synthetic pillows, two with the name and lion logo of the lodge embroidered on them. To one side of the bed, against the corner, there was a built-in concrete cushioned day bed. Black out red curtains from the floor to the top of the wall covered the sliding glass doors with screen that opened on to a large wood deck. The doors had to be locked at all times to keep baboons (who would steal anything they could, we were warned by the staff) out of the room. A large baboon was capable of opening the front door if the lock wasn’t turned.

Decorative accents included wood and glass framed fabric pieces on one side and similarly framed drawings by Hardi; and wall inset shelf space that contained ceramic artifacts. On one side of the room there were three vertical “windows” with an amber color material in the center.

In the corner of the room, there was a built-in concrete table facing the wall, an armless wicker chair, and a rectangular window facing the bush. On the table there were several amenities: telephone, lamp, (one room had magazines), vase with a green leaf arrangement, folder with lodge information, hot beverage tray (with coffee, hot water pitcher and beverages basket), individual size Nespresso machine and second tray with glasses and a small quantity of what looked like sherry, bottle of red wine, three individual size bags of The Treat Company snacks (peanuts, dried fruit cubes, juicy treats and gum drops), and cutting board with a knife, ginger root and a lemon from the minibar. Below that tray, under the table and behind a wood and metal door (that matched a similar designed metal piece set onto the concrete table at the entrance) there was a mini refrigerator with beverages for sale.

The outer deck faced the bush and the dry riverbed of the Manyeleti River and reached from one end of the room to the other. There were matching adjustable lounge chairs with cushions. To the right of the chairs there was a square plunge pool with clear water (a troop of baboons visited the deck the day of my arrival and drank out of the pool). A few steps away there was a bush facing shady area with a double cushioned day bed next to the privacy fence. The in-room folder warned us not to sleep there at night. From the room I could hear the sound of birds and animals.

Food We sat at a table by ourselves for all meals except one dinner. Most meals and afternoon tea were served on the open air deck. Breakfast, served on our return from game drives, was a small buffet with cereal, yogurt, fresh sliced fruit and made to order hot dishes, mainly eggs and sides. Lunch, served at 1:30 p.m., was buffet style the day we arrived and a set menu served in a tray at our table the second day. Beverages and a cake were available at 3:30 p.m. before departure for the 4 p.m. game drive. Dinner, served after our return from the game drive, was plated in a small boma (enclosed open air space) setting with a single semicircular table for all guests and guides the first night, and plated at private tables the second night. Meal related training and new recipes were introduced on an ongoing basis, according to a spokesperson.

Amenities There were Africology made in South Africa toiletries in refillable plastic bottles (hand and body wash, shampoo, conditioner, body lotion), vanity kit, sewing kit, shower cap, and bath salts. There was an electronic safe, umbrellas, insect repellent, flashlight, hairdryer, two white cotton bathrobes hanging in the shower and two sets of slippers. In the bedroom there was a hot beverage service (tea and coffee), a mini bar with items for sale including white and red wine and other alcoholic and non alcoholic beverages, three packages of The Treat Company snacks (there was a price list in the room folder). There was a game and bird identification checklist for guest use. At turn down the staff left a printout of a short story (Tortoise and the Hare).

Facilities Gift shop, fitness room, treatment room, television room, boma (enclosure for al fresco dinners), bar and lounge with fireplace.

Shop There was a small selection of locally produced curios, ornaments, costume jewelry, gift items and branded clothing (few sizes and a limited selection of fabrics available).

Spa There was a single 20 square meter treatment room between the Gym and Room 5 facing the Manyeleti River dry riverbed.

Game Viewing Enoch Temba was our ranger and Derrick Mnisi was our tracker. Enoch had 23 years of experience and the following qualifications: Field Guide Association of South Africa (FGASA) Guiding Level 1, Tracking Level 3 and Full Trails Guide. He had worked as field guide at Ululapa Sabi Sands (between 1994 and 2000), Lion Sands Sabi Sands (between 2001 and 2015), and Waterside Lodge Thornybush Game Reserve (from 2016 to the date of publication). Derrick had 17 years of experience and was a FGASA Level 2 Tracker.

Our guide showed us the following trees: Weeping Boerbean, Marula tree, jackalberry, Leadwood.

We saw the following animals: Baboons, Burchell’s zebra, bushbuck, elephants, giraffe, grey duiker, impala, kudu, leopard, lion, nyala, scrub hare, side-striped jackal, steenbok, tree squirrel, warthog, waterbuck, white rhinoceros, wildebeest, wild cat, bat insect, serrated hinged terrapin, agama southern tree.

We saw or heard the following birds: African scops-owl, arrow-marked babbler, bateleur eagle, black headed oriole, blacksmith lapwing, bronze-winged courser, Cape glossy starling, Cape turtle dove, crested barbet, crowned lapwing, fork-tailed drongo, go-away-bird, hadeda ibis, helmeted guineafowl, magpie shrike, Natal francolin, redbilled oxpecker, southern yellow-billed hornbill, tawny eagle, Eagle martial, Fiery-necked nightjar, Barn own, Common scimitarbill.

Activities The activities on offer were morning and afternoon game drives. We went on four game drives during our stay and shared the Toyota Landcruiser with two other guests on the first two drives and with four other guests for the final two drives. There were many branches along the roads and we had to be mindful to avoid being struck by thorny branches as we drove along.

Other As with all the safari properties we visited in South Africa, signing an exhaustive indemnity release was a required part of check-in to the property. After dark a staff person escorted us to and from our rooms.

Check out was at eleven 11 a.m. As part of the Inzalo community project local farmers grew Thousand Herbs and Vegetable Garden, which supplied the Simbambili kitchen among others properties in The Thornybush Collection.

Cleanliness Good

Date of Last Visit May 2017

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our rooms were serviced twice daily. The relief property manager was service oriented. Our butler in the dining room was friendly and attentive as were our ranger and tracker and other staff we encountered.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression Safari travel, even at five star properties, can be grueling due to the twice daily three-hour game drives that are a part of daily life. After almost two weeks of back to back safari days in and around South Africa’s famous Kruger National Park we longed for quiet and rest to replenish our energy reserves before completing the remainder of our game viewing itinerary. While the accommodations at the safari properties were comfortable and luxurious it was difficult to resist the lure of the frequent game drives so we were a bit tired. Thankfully, to address our desire to do little to nothing at least for one day we had sandwiched two nights at the family owned and managed Belgrace Boutique Hotel in White River into the middle of our trip. It had a restaurant, in-room spa services and no onsite activities to tempt us. Other than running one shopping errand in Nelspruit, the nearest city, we planned no tours, game drives or activities. We expected to catch up on emails and relax with a book by the pool for the duration.

We were pleasantly surprised to discover that the Belgrace (named for a combination of beauty and grace, one of the owners explained) was better than we expected after viewing the property website. We arrived to find rose petals on the beds, around bathtubs and on tabletops, and fresh roses. Lovingly built and decorated by Shaun and Belinda Loudon, the hotel was pretty with a charming blend of elegance and homeyness. It was an added bonus that, as two of three guests during our shoulder season visit, we had the place mostly to ourselves.

Although it was too chilly to spend time poolside, a light lunch by the garden’s eye catching venerable fig tree and massages helped us unwind. Dinner time arrived far too quickly. The next day likewise evaporated. At nightfall we joined the owners for a tasty and leisurely meal and before we realized it our stay was at an end. Despite our best intentions we had fallen prey to temptation, departing early in the morning to tour the region’s well known Blyde River Canyon at Shaun’s suggestion and in his company (he and his wife were also owners of a transfer and tour company) on our way to our next safari lodge.

Our rooms were well appointed and comfortable. My favorite feature of the 80 square meter Hampton Presidential Suite where I stayed, which had an indoor Jacuzzi and an outdoor splash pool, was the view of the farm’s macadamia tress and mountains in the background from my covered deck, especially in the soft light of dawn.

We liked the property as much for its personal touch and warm service as for its creature comforts and European inspired rooms. We would return and recommend it to friends traveling in that region seeking a romantic or relaxing getaway.

Children The property welcomed children of all ages in its two-bedroom Family Suites. Children 12 and older were welcome in the Rock Fig restaurant. For younger children, the full menu was served in room.

Class of Accommodation Boutique Five Star hotel

Connectivity There was complimentary high speed WiFi (2 megabyte speed) in the room and common areas.

General Manager Hendri Mentz

Handicapped Access The property was not officially handicapped friendly, although handicapped guests had stayed there, including a groom who was married in his wheelchair. He had stayed in the Baby Grand Deluxe Suite.

Length of Stay Two nights

Location The property was 21 kilometers from Nelspruit

Owned and managed Shaun and Belinda Loudon

Pets Allowed No

Size The 1,450 square meter property with eight rooms was built on 20 hectares of land and employed 22.

Year Opened-Renovated The hotel first opened in October 2014.

Lobby and Common Areas From the parking area we walked to a small garden with a water feature. After passing reception we reached an outdoor pool where we turned left, making our way past the dining room with its tablecloth covered tables and the bar, both open to a terrace with a fig tree in the center. From there a paved pathway led to our rooms.

The décor was inspired by a trip the owners made to Tuscany and designed to be “a tasteful eclectic combination of different decor styles including baroque, bohemian and French Provencal.” The rooms and common areas were decorated with custom made fabrics. I liked the serene setting and how birdsong filled the air during the day (although the sounds of cars driving near the property and the occasional plane overhead were distracting sometimes).

Bathroom Both bathrooms had separate bathtub and shower and were decorated in soft neutral tones. Rose petals were strewn around the Jacuzzi border when we arrived. In Wedgwood, a door on the left side of the room opened on to a rectangular shaped bathroom with a built-in bathtub, a wood cabinet with twin sinks, a glass enclosed shower and a toilet in the far back. There were five mirrors in the room, three rectangular framed mirrors across from the shower, an oval and a rectangular mirror above the sinks.

In Hampton, to reach the doorless bathroom I walked between the daybed and a partial rock feature. To the left there was a ground level built-in Jacuzzi. To the right there was a glass enclosed shower for two with dual shower heads. There were twins sinks atop a wood cabinet across from the shower. A rectangular wood framed mirror hung above the sinks. Next to the sinks there was an oversize Corian oval shaped bathtub beneath two framed oval mirrors. Past the bathtub, there was a separate toilet room.

Room We stayed in the 45 square meter Wedgwood Deluxe Suite, steps from the outdoor dining area, and the 80 square meter Hampton Presidential Suite, a minute’s walk from Wedgewood down the same paved pathway. Both rooms were divided into two main areas: indoors, where there was a bedroom and a bathroom, and an outdoor deck. Wedgewood had a 25 square meter outdoor deck with private Jacuzzi and outdoor shower while Hampton had a 50 square meter outdoor deck, part under cover, with splash pool, outdoor shower, and scenic view of the property grounds in the foreground and green mountains in the background.

The entrance to Wedgwood was via a sliding glass and wood door with blackout curtains. A bed for two took up the center of the room. A mosquito net hung above the bed. There was an area rug in front of the bed. Wedgewood was “decorated in warm French style opulence” in “rich textures of gold and blue, with hand painted furniture and crystal chandeliers.” The décor was in tan, taupe and baby blue with fleur de lys style wallpaper on one wall. Three framed mirrors hung on the wall at the head of the bed and matching wood (painted blue) night tables framed the bed. There was a wood roll-top desk, a wood dresser and vanity, an armoire, a luggage rack, a mini refrigerator, a wood cabinet (yellow and blue) with a wall mounted Sinotec television and matching DVD player. There was also a tablecloth covered dining table with two armless chairs. There were two cushioned armchairs with a rectangular wood table between them. Behind the room there was a wood deck with Jacuzzi, daybed, metal table, two chairs and an outdoor shower in the back.

Hampton was built on a granite outcrop high above the property lawn and designed by the owners to be secluded, spacious and private as well as “Opulent, grand, and classically elegant.” Double wood entrance doors led into a foyer with framed mirrors on both walls, small cushioned sofa, and two matching wood tables on the opposite side of the sofa. Next to the sofa there was a wood and glass cabinet with glassware. In front of the cabinet, there was a tablecloth covered table for two with one armchair and one armless chair. There was a built-in waist level wood cabinet against the wall furthest from the entrance door beneath four glass windows. Thanks to the windows and sliding glass doors there was a view from almost every spot in the bedroom. Atop the wood cabinet there was a hot beverage service, a Philips CD player and docking station, a potted plant, and a cool beverage tray. Beneath the cabinet there was a minibar with a stocked mini refrigerator with bottled water, milk, soft drinks, wine, and individual size bottles of alcohol (two bottles each of name brand gin, whiskey, vodka, liqueur). The room interior was decorated in muted shades of beige and gold with rich furnishings, gold damask wall coverings, hand painted finishes and crystal chandeliers to offer “romantics an indulgence in ultimate sophisticated grandness.” It was furnished boldly with an eye toward luxury, featuring a fourposter king size bed, indoor Jacuzzi, fireplace, dining table for two, and kitchen in a single wall-less room.

The middle of the room was taken up by living space, including a day bed next to a small square wood table, a matching love seat and two armchairs atop an area rug facing an oval shaped wood table and a stove fireplace set against a partial rock wall. The table had a flower and plant arrangement, a sherry bottle and a candlestick holder.

A four poster bed was next to the rear wall. Mosquito netting hung above the bed and was spread around it at night during the turn down service. I saw no mosquitoes. Identical square wood night tables framed the bed. To the right side of the bed there was a wood dresser beneath a wall mounted Samsung television. To the left side of the bed there was a double sided armoire with a mirror in the middle. There was also a vanity with a mirror and armless chair.

Three sliding glass doors lead to the outer deck. One was next to the Jacuzzi in the bathroom. One was in the middle section of the room next to the daybed. The third was next to the dining table and provided access to the plunge pool.

Decorator elements included chandeliers, double curtains, large beige tile flooring, high ceiling and large glass windows. The temperature was controlled via a wall mounted air conditioning unit. There was ample sunlight during the day and lamplight in the evening.

The large rock of the room’s foundation was integrated into the outdoor deck, which was divided into two main sections. One under roof facing the property lawn was furnished with a wood cushioned sofa and a tablecloth covered table for two with armless chairs. The area beneath roof had stone tile flooring while the open deck had wood flooring. There were two wood armchairs and an umbrella on one side without a roof. On the other side of the terrace there were two adjustable, wood cushioned lounge chairs, a 1.1 meter deep splash pool and an outdoor shower. The entire deck had a wood and metal safety railing with minimum interruption of the line of sight view of the lawn and beyond.

Food and Restaurants All meals were plated and served at a private table. Breakfast consisted of a continental style tray of fruit yogurt, fresh mixed fruit, almonds, mixed berries and nuts (pumpkins seeds, goji berries and raisins), muesli and croissants. There was also a made to order hot breakfast selection of eggs and sides or French toast. The menu was identical both days. There was a selection of two soups, three salads, and three sandwiches. For dinner we had the oxtail, Thai chicken curry and beef filet with blue cheese sauce (a favorite).

Belinda the owner is a qualified Cordon Bleu chef, a graduate of the Silwood School of Cookery in South Africa. She had trained and empowered the three cooks who ran the kitchen. “Food is a very important part of the Belgrace experience,” she explained. “Our signature dishes are slow cooked with love and tenderness using the finest organic produce from the farm.”

Amenities There were Charlotte Rhys toiletries in refillable plastic bottles (shampoo, conditioner, liquid soap, individual size soap, bath salts, shower cap and body lotion), cotton balls and cotton swabs, slippers, two types of bathrobes, large candles, vanity mirror, bar with mini refrigerator, hot beverage service with hot water pitcher, electronic safe, vanity mirror, Ferrero Rocher chocolate balls at turndown, and fresh roses in the rooms. There was also a selection of books and magazines, homemade cookies, and assorted herbal teas and filter coffee. In-room massages and other spa treatments were available. We had massages by Thandeka during our stay.

Facilities There was a swimming pool, restaurant, bar and garden.

Pool The kidney shaped swimming pool was 10 meters by four meters large and ranged between one meter and 1.6 meters in depth. There was a dolphin design at the bottom of the pool. There were four lounge chairs and two umbrellas in the grassy pool area.

Other The property had received the following: 2015 and 2016 Tripadvisor Certificate of Excellence; 2016 and 2017 Tripadvisor Travellers Choice awards; 2016 World Luxury Hotel Awards Winner for South Africa Best Luxury Honeymoon Hotel; 2016 Luxury Travel Guide Luxury Boutique Hotel of the Year; 2015 World Luxury Hotel Awards Winner for Africa’s Best Luxury Romantic Hotel; and 2015 Award of Service Excellence from the Restaurant Association of South Africa. As part of the hotel’s Staff Empowerment and Upliftment Program the property ran a recycling project and organic vegetable gardens.

Cleanliness Very Good

Date of Review May 2017

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our rooms were serviced twice daily. Everyone we met including, Hendri, Lethu, Lindi, Thandeka, Shaun, and Belinda was service oriented and had a positive attitude.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression The River Lodge, so named because it sits on the banks of the Timbavati River within the Big Five Thornybush Nature Reserve, South Africa offered that rare combination of intimate upscale accommodations, serenity, and efficient yet warm service. We stayed in the Royal Suite, its 220 square meter luxurious and comfortable two bedroom suite with elevated walkways, a spacious living, dining and kitchen space and a private plunge pool, such a cocoon of comfort in the bush that it was tempting to skip a game drive.

But that would have been a shame because the game viewing was outstanding, and after all it was the reason we traveled all the way to South Africa. So not only did I not skip any game drives, but I also made time to go on a bush walk. Because we were fortunate to be the only guests at the property we had a private vehicle and an enthusiastic team of guide and tracker to ourselves.

We especially enjoyed the setting. Whether sitting by our suite pool catching a glimpse of a herd of dainty nyala on the dry riverbed below, gazing across the main lodge pool at the wild greenery beyond or at the starlit sky above there was always something to admire. We appreciated that the staff served most of our meals by the north facing main lodge pool, which offered a favorite water and bush vista. We would gladly return to The River Lodge and recommend it to friends and family for its outstanding game viewing (we saw four of the Big Five), excellent accommodations, attention to detail, friendly and guest oriented service, and well-prepared and well presented meals.

Children The lodge welcomed children 16 years of age and older.

Class of Accommodation Five Star Lodge

Connectivity The property had complimentary WiFi made possible by fiber optic cabling with a speed of 2 megabytes per second. Although we had connectivity in each of our rooms there was no WiFi signal in the living and dining area between the two rooms in the Royal Suite. A repairman arrived the day of our departure to ensure a signal.

General Manager Liza Huismans was on leave during our stay. Ronel Jacobs was the relief manager.

Handicapped Access According to a spokesperson, one of the rooms (Suite 1) was equipped to welcome guests in wheelchairs.

Length of Stay Two nights

Location The property was within the Thornybush Nature Reserve, approximately 54 kilometers from Hoedspruit, the nearest town.

Number of Employees 16

Owned and Managed Jordan Properties (Patrick Jordan of Hoedspruit, South Africa)

Size The two hectare property had five rooms and traversing rights to the entire 15,000 hectare Thornybush Nature Reserve

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation A spokesperson declined to disclose in the year it was built or the date of the most recent renovation.

Lobby and Common Areas The lodge was decorated in a contemporary luxury safari style with northern African antique doors in the suites.

Bathroom The bathrooms in the two rooms were very similar. They had generous bush views thanks to large glass windows and doors without curtains (there was a rolled up canvas. Each had a standalone oval bathtub facing two glass doors, a shower with a partial glass wall on one side and glass doors on the other leading to an open air deck. A pathway in my bathroom led to a private enclosure with an outdoor shower, great for daytime showers. A separate room housed the toilet. There was a towel rack in the center next to a fabric bench that doubled as a luggage rack. There was a full length wood framed mirror in each bathroom.

Room We stayed in the Royal Suite, the property’s 220 square meter two bedroom and two bathroom suite. It was divided into Blyde and Oliphant rooms with a shared common air conditioned space with a small kitchen, dining and living room in the middle. There was also an outdoor dining area, fire pit and plunge pool. To reach the Royal Suite from the main building we walked down a brick path, past the other rooms and over a small wood bridge to a sprawling elevated three part structure that faced the dry riverbed of the Timbavati River. All three parts had thatched roofs and were connected by an elevated wood deck in the front and back of the structure. A wide wood staircase provided access to the central structure and a narrow wood walkway reached Oliphant from the front. Although we were not supposed to walk around the lodge after dark there was no such restriction within the suite.

The suite kitchen had dinnerware, flatware, glassware, and crystalware. It also had Siemens gas stove and oven with matching extractor, Ecco refrigerator, and Whirlpool microwave oven. Between the kitchen and sitting area there was a rectangular dining table. In the sitting room there were two love-seats and two matching armchairs facing a cabinet, which housed a Samsung television. A series of glass doors, and windows in the kitchen and in the front and back of the room provided access to the front and back of the building. Inside, polished concrete floors were covered by area rugs. The back deck housed a rectangular plunge pool ranging in depth from 1.3 to 1.8 meters. The pool water was clear and clean. To one side thickly cushioned metal lounge chairs faced a concrete fire pit. A tree provided ample shade over the lounge chairs when the sun was at its zenith. It was a favorite corner for me.

A walkway to the right led to a thatched open air area with two additional lounge chairs, two armchairs, double burner, sink and full size Whirlpool refrigerator stocked with water and soft drinks. There were also The Treat Company snacks (biltong beef jerky, dried mango, Jelly Beans) and full size bottles of alcoholic beverages. Glass and metal doors led to the rear entrance to Blyde, a master bedroom with an en suite bathroom. It had a large bed in the center framed by identical night tables, a wood desk and chair that could double as a vanity, two armchairs in a side living space, as well as a walk-in closet with ample hanging and shelf space and an electronic safe. There were four synthetic pillows and a synthetic duvet. Blackout curtains covered the bedroom windows and doors.

Each room had a beautiful East Africa carved wood door with original metal work. Oliphant was similar to Blyde although about 20 percent smaller. The outdoor sitting area had two armchairs as well as a full size refrigerator and cabinets (no snacks). The deck wrapped around the end of the elevated walkway structure, which at its tip faced west to the surrounding bush. The temperature was controlled by ceiling fans and wall-mounted air conditioners (convertible to heaters) in each bedroom and in the middle common room.

Food The cooks served tasty and well presented food and paid attention to food allergies and preferences at meal times (not for snacks). All our meals were served in the main lodge building except for our final dinner, which was served on our deck next to the lit fire pit (it was in the 50s Fahrenheit and after a while even the blankets provided were not enough). Breakfast, served at around 9 a.m. on our return from the game drive, was an abundant cold buffet (cereal, fruit salad, bread, cheese, whole ham, fresh baked orange muffins and breads, fresh squeezed orange juice, fresh sliced tomato, pesto) and made to order eggs and sides.

Lunch, served at 1:30 p.m. at a poolside table, was a platter of cold salad dishes such as yellow salad, potato salad, zucchini fritters or corn fritters and meats such as sticky chicken, pork ribs, chicken satay, and eland skewers. Dinner, served plated beginning at 7:30 p.m., was from a limited menu of two choices per course. A staff member took our dinner order at lunchtime. On our final night we had fried calamari and shrimp appetizers (there was also mushroom soup), duck mains with orange and apricot sauce and chocolate fondant (regular and gluten free) with vanilla ice cream.

Most of the produce was organic. The lodge relied on a team of three staff in the kitchen, two of which were well seasoned in five star establishments.

Amenities The nightly rate included accommodations, two daily game drives, optional bush walks, laundry, meals, snacks during game drives, and beverages, including house wines. In the suite kitchen, there was a hot beverage service, including a variety of tea bags, hot water pitcher and Nespresso machine. There were lemons, cold beverages in the refrigerator freezer (canned juices, beer, wine, milk, water), delicious fresh home baked chocolate chip, and chocolate cookies. One night at turn down there was a chocolate. In our suite there were complimentary bar beverages (full size bottles) and The Treat Company snacks. There were moist towels when we returned from game drives.

In the bedrooms, there were tea candles, animal checklists, umbrellas, blankets, Summer and Winter bathrobes, slippers, hair dryer, Charlotte Rhys toiletries (individual size soaps, shower caps, vanity set, sewing kit, nail kit, feminine kit, shoe mitt, shoe brush, vanity mirror, electronic safe, flashlights, mosquito repellent, insect spray, and South African G and G refillable plastic bottles of toiletries (shower gel, shampoo, conditioner, body lotion), and bath salts. There were also fixed and movable spotlights and international adapters.

Facilities In the main building there was a sitting area and swimming pool for guests.

Pool The main pool was curved and had two shallow ends. It was17 meters by 3 meters and 1.8 meters deep. There were tiny fish in the pool. There were two daybeds side-by-side at one end of the pool deck. At lunch the staff set up a table under the shade of an umbrella facing the pool and the bush beyond it. Likewise we had one poolside dinner. It became a favorite spot.

Shop In lieu of a gift shop the property had a display case with branded merchandise for sale (caps, hats, shirts, scarves, safari artifacts).

Game Viewing Roux DuToit was our field guide and Nicolas Ndlovu was our tracker. Between them they had 20 years of experience. Roux had Field Guides Association of Southern Africa (FGASA) Level 2 and Bush Trails certifications. At night I heard an owl near my room and while we had dinner in front of the fire pit we heard the sounds of hyena nearby.

We saw at the following animals: baboons, buffalo, Burchell’s zebra, common duiker, elephants, hippopotamus, impala, kudu, leopard, lion, nyala, scrub hare, spotted hyena, vervet monkey, warthog; and reptiles and insects:  black mamba, Nile crocodile, and yellow pansy butterfly.

We saw the following trees and shrubs: pride-of-de-kaap, Transvall safron, russet bush willow, Ana tree, common spike thorn, apple leaf, camel’s foot, weeping boerbean, marula tree.

We saw or heard the following birds: African hoopoe, black headed oriole, blacksmith lapwing, brown-hooded kingfisher, Burchell’s coucal, Burchell’s starling, Cape glossy starling, cardinal woodpecker, crested francolin, dark chanting goshawk, dark-capped bulbul, emerald-spotted wood-dove, fork-tailed drongo, go-away-bird, golden-tailed woodpecker, green-winged pytilia, grey heron, grey-headed bush-shrike, hammerkop, helmeted guineafowl, little bee-eater, rattling cisticola, red billed hornbill, red-faced mousebird, redbilled oxpecker, southern black tit, southern grey-headed sparrow, southern yellow-billed hornbill, spotted eagle-owl, three-banded plover, white-backed vulture, white-faced duck, Apalis yellow-breasted, chinspot batis, Southern boubou, orange-breasted bush-shrike, long-billed crombec, eagle snake brown, little grebe, green-backed heron, indigobird dusky, giant kingfisher, yellow-throated longclaw, white-browed scrub-robin, water thick-knee.

Activities There were two daily game viewing drives in a Toyota LandCruiser safari vehicle, in the early morning around dawn and in the late afternoon around sunset, and a bush walk. Staff would wake us up at 5:30 a.m. and we would depart at about 6 a.m. The afternoon game drive departed at 3:30 p.m. The game drives lasted about three hours each and the walk was about an hour. We went on four game drives during our stay.

Although the bush was particularly thick in the reserve, making it difficult to see far from the dirt roads on which we drove, our guide, Roux, maintained silent radio communications with other field guides, sharing sighting information. Off-road driving was restricted. Although there was a limit of vehicles at Big Five sightings, because the density of vehicles in that part of the reserve was low we often had the leisure of long sightings.

Other As was the case with the other safari properties we visited check-in procedures included signing a required exhaustive liability release. After dark a staff person escorted us to and from our suite.

The property joined the Thornybush Collection April 2015. The River Lodge used an organic, chemical free Lillyput Waste water processor, recycled garbage, and maintained an eco-friendly stabilized chlorinated swimming pool system. The property purchased produce from two community projects that supplied produce to the lodges within the nature reserve.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Last Visit May 2017

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our suite was serviced twice daily. From Myer, our porter, to the manager the staff’s attitude was warm and friendly all around. Odilia, the assistant manager and Truth, our butler, were attentive and smiled with ease as did Addy and Thulani, head chef and chef respectively, who always came out to see how we enjoyed our meals. Ronel, the relief lodge manager, responded to any request with alacrity and efficiency.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression We liked Shumbalala Game Lodge, a luxury boutique safari property within the Thornybush Nature Reserve in South Africa, for many reasons not the least of which were our Big Five and rare wild dog sightings. Despite experiencing cold and rainy weather during most of our stay we left with a favorable impression and would gladly return. The name of the property was derived from the Shona language of Zimbabwe, shumba meaning lion and lala meaning to sleep or lie down, hence where the lion sleeps.

The pretty property was built facing the Monwana River, which added to its charm and bush appeal. Whether we were in the main area or in our expansive two-bedroom Presidential Suite the dry riverbed always drew our attention as did a manmade water hole on the opposite bank from the lodge. We liked the intimate and comfortable common spaces, lovingly tended gardens and original art. The spacious Presidential Suite was a good place to take refuge from inclement weather. Although monkeys climbed onto the suite deck, making it necessary to keep the doors closed at all times, the rooms in the suite had glass doors and glass walls that afforded us external views and filled the suite with muted sunlight. The crackling fire in the suite’s big fireplace, lit thoughtfully by the staff, warmed the chilly air and lent the living room a romantic ambiance.

Thoughtful touches enhanced our well being. For example, the property had fleece lined water repellent jackets (a favorite) for guest use. The added layer combined with rain ponchos and hot water bottles on the early morning game drives went a long way toward taking the edge off the wet morning cold while we drove around in search of animals and birds to admire. It was the most comfortable early morning game drive I had the entire trip. And, despite the challenging weather game viewing at Shumbalala was outstanding. The property’s desirable riverside location, handsome and spacious two-bedroom suite with private plunge pool, luxury features and rewarding Big Five game viewing place it on our short list within the Thornybush Nature Reserve.

Children With pre-authorization the property welcomed children for guests staying in the Presidential Suite only. Rangers would customize activities for children in those cases. For safety reasons during Big Five sightings the Thornybush Nature Reserve only allowed children six years old and older on game drives. The property offered babysitting services.

Class of Accommodation Luxury Safari Five Star Boutique Lodge

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi with an upload speed of two megabytes per second.

General Managers Victor and Jeandra Swan (Danielle was in charge during our stay)

Handicapped Access Yes, the property welcomed handicapped guests. According to a spokesperson, Shumbalala was the only handicapped friendly lodge within The Thornybush Collection; the property was graded by the Tourism Grading Council of South Africa as Wheelchair Assisted, able to accommodate handicapped guests traveling with an assistant or partner. There was a man in a wheelchair (traveling with his wife) at the property during our stay. One of the rooms was designed to accommodate handicapped guests. It had handlebars in the shower and toilet area.

Length of Stay Two nights

Location The property was 30 kilometers from Hoedspruit Airport inside the Thornybush Private Nature Reserve, which in turn was part of the Greater Kruger National Park area.

Number of Employees 16

Owned and managed Snyman, Maclaren-Taylor and Swan Family (Elsa and Keith Maclaren-Taylor, Noelle Snyman, and Victor and Jeandra Swan). The property was part of the Thornybush Collection, which handled reservations and marketing.

Size The two hectare property, part of a share block of 1,600 hectares, had four Suites and a two bedroom Presidential Suite. It was situated within a 14,000 hectare reserve to which it had full traversing rights.

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation The property opened in 1999 as a four star corporate camp. In 2001, the owners renovated it to the Five Star boutique hotel standard it had during our stay. Renovations were continuous, according to a spokesperson, and the most recent work onsite was the addition of a swimming pool in 2016.

Lobby and Common Areas The property was decorated in a contemporary safari style with earth tones and original art. Guests arrived and departed via a porte cochere to an open air main area. It housed a living room with an oversize stone fireplace, common area bathroom, and kitchen. A taste for plants and flowers was evident in a fresh flower arrangement in the main building and pretty succulent plant garden features. A small gift shop, the manager’s office and a cozy library and television room were steps away from the arrival foyer.

The owners sought to offer understated, timeless elegance with nature as the main focus. They commissioned original art by Johan Koch, and sculptures by Frank Miles and Richard Van Zyl. Elsa Maclarne-Taylor was responsible for the interior décor. From the main building a few steps led to a bar with eight bar stools. Next to it was a sitting room under roof adjacent to and with a broad view of the riverbed. A temperature controlled wine cellar with a glass wall and a splendid view of the riverbed was one level below.

Bathroom I liked that while the bathroom was spacious and well appointed its design drew my attention to the outside. Like the bedroom the bathroom had glass windows and doors facing the outdoors. There was a bathtub next to a window with a bush view. On the opposite side of the room there were twin sinks atop a polished concrete counter, beneath identical rectangular wood framed mirrors. Against the wall there was a wood and leather bench and a wood cabinet where the staff stored bed linen. Next to the bathtub there was a doorless walk in shower with two large glass windows facing the bush. Next to the shower there was a glass and wood door leading to an outdoor shower under roof also with a view to the bush. The toilet was in an enclosure of its own with a frosted glass and wood door.

Room We stayed in the 225 square meter two bedroom (each bedroom was 75 square meters), two bathroom Presidential Suite, a standalone structure. It was well appointed and furnished for comfort. To reach it we followed a brick paved path from the main building to the double glass doors of our suite, the last one in the pathway. The suite was divided into two main areas, indoors and outdoors as well as three main interior areas, two bedrooms and a shared common living and dining space. We entered into a dining room. Behind it, sharing a large stone fireplace, was a living room. There was a bedroom on either side of the main area. The bedroom doors had large, noisy metal doorknobs. Because of the wind that filtered inside they would bang if we didn’t latch them closed. All the doors and windows had to be closed and locked to keep monkeys out.

Like the rest of the property, the suite was decorated in earth tones and safari style. The building had a thatched roof, high ceilings and stone tile flooring. The side facing the river had many glass and glass and wood doors opening onto exterior decks. The temperature was controlled by wall-mounted air conditioning and heating units and ceiling fans. At night the staff provided us water bottles. Sunlight filtered in through the sliding glass doors and windows during the day. When we needed artificial light there were dimmer controlled track lights and lamps. When the air conditioner was off I could hear staff voices inside my room. The living area was chilly when strong wind penetrated indoors and there was no heat source when the fireplace wasn’t lit.

The center of the dining room was taken up by a rectangular wood table and eight armless wicker chairs. There were built-in wood cabinets on either side of the room set against the wall, a wet bar, hot beverage items including a water pitcher, and a stocked mini refrigerator. The living room was furnished with twin leather armchairs; an oversize, rectangular wood coffee table atop an area rug; a green fabric love seat framed by identical square wood end tables, and four wood and leather stools. On either side of the dining and living room there was an external garden feature visible through floor to ceiling glass walls.

The bedrooms were mirror images of each other. Each one was divided into two areas, the bedroom and the bathroom without a door between them. A fourposter bed with synthetic pillows, a synthetic fibre bedcover and a mosquito canopy above it occupied the center of the room. The mosquito net had holes and hung above the ground, which meant the mosquitoes could an fly inside through the bottom. Fortunately, there were no mosquitoes. The bed was framed by identical rectangular wood night tables with lamps and a telephone (only for internal calls). There was a bench at the foot of the bed. On one side, set against the wall, there was a rectangular wood table framed by two cushioned high back chairs. On the opposite side of the room there was a vanity with a rectangular wood framed mirror and a cushioned metal stool. There was hanging and shelf space in a built-in wood closet. The room on the right side had a clear view from the bed to its private deck as well as the fire pit common deck of the suite.

The covered deck, on the outside of the living room, was furnished with a dining table for six. On the other side of the deck, there were four wicker lounge chairs facing a private plunge pool. The rectangular plunge pool was 3 meters by 1.5 meters in size and 1.5 meters deep. A remote control made it possible to slide a retractable floor cover over the plunge pool so seamlessly we would not have known it was there had the staff not pointed it out. There was a fire pit with four wicker armchairs. Because of the rainy weather we made no use of the deck and plunge pool.

Food We sat at our own table for meals. Staff served breakfast on our return from the morning game drive. In lieu of lunch there was a small afternoon tea buffet at 2:45 p.m. The kitchen was able to accommodate vegetarian and gluten free dietary requirements with ease. At tea there were individual servings of spicy tomato soup, open faced cucumber and tomato bites, breaded chicken strips with a white sauce, fried calamari, a salad and two types of petit fours. The only beverage was sweet iced lemonade. During tea the manager took our dinner order, which was plated. There were two choices for starters and three choices for mains, including vegetarian options. We sampled the ostrich carpaccio starter, and for mains vegetable curry and beef served with vegetables and potato wedges.

Breakfast consisted of a cold buffet with two types of yogurt (each in a bowl), muesli, nuts (sunflower, pumpkin, pecans), dried fruit (banana chips, raisins, mango), deli meats (two types of ham, salami), cheese platter, banana bread and soft bread, juice, mini pancakes, jams. There was a fresh fruit cup (a favorite). Made to order egg dishes were available with sides of mushroom, beef sausage, bacon, tomatoes, sliced bell peppers and onions. One morning, the daily special was French toast with sauteed bananas and cinnamon topped with crispy bacon.

Danielle, the daughter of one of the owners, was the head cook. While she had no formal education she was “passionate about fresh ingredients, quality food and presentation.” Dishes were served on modern dinnerware. She, Jeanette and Maggi were in charge of the food service. Dinners were five courses. The meal style was simple, with an emphasis on basics, cooking from scratch, and alfresco dining. Breakfast was served in the open air area under roof facing the fire pit. Tea was served in the sitting room adjacent to the bar facing the river, and for dinner we were seated in the same place as breakfast once, and indoors by the fire the second time. Our favorite setting was by the extra large fireplace in the main building.

Amenities The suite price included meals, morning and afternoon game drives, snacks during game drives, bottled water, coffee, and tea (there was a hot beverage service in the suite and following our stay the property added Nespresso coffee machines to all the rooms). All other beverages, minibar items, and laundry were priced individually. On our return from game drives there were moist towels and in the evening there was sherry. There were house brand toiletries in refillable plastic bottles (shampoo, conditioner, body lotion, individual size soap) and bath salts. In each bedroom there were two cotton bathrobes, slippers, mosquito repellent, electronic safe, property folder, two property postcards, and notepad. At turndown, the staff left a one-page bush short story (Why Warthog is so Ugly; Why Rhino Scatters His Dung), a bottle of water and a bite-size nougat.

Our suite included a complimentary a 750 milliliter bottle of sparkling brut rose Kleine Zalze wine, sherry, tray of snacks (potato chips, cashews, dry sausages), and a fresh fruit bowl (bananas, green grapes, papaya, pineapple, plums, apples). For the musically inclined there was a Sony CD and iPod player with speakers and a nano with prerecorded music. There was a computer for guest use in the library.

Facilities There was a lookout deck overlooking the waterhole, library with television and book exchange titles, bar, Rimflow swimming pool overlooking the dry riverbed, wine cellar and small gift shop.

Pool In the main area, there was an attractive infinity edge main swimming pool 10 meters by 5 meters and 1.6 meters deep. There were eight lounge chairs and three large umbrellas facing the pool, the dry riverbed and the bush.

Shop A small curio shop next to the manager’s office sold branded clothing, costume jewelry, and a few souvenirs. Most of the items were made in South Africa and ranged in price from 20 rand to 20,000 rand.

Game Viewing Our ranger, Edward Reynolds, was Fields Guides of South Africa (FGSA) Level One and Advanced Birding Certified, and a Full Trails Guide. He was also a reptile enthusiast. Our tracker was Alfred Sithole.

We saw the following animals: buffalo, Burchell’s zebra, bush baby, elephants, grey duiker, hippopotamus, impala, leopard, lion, nyala, tree squirrel, vervet monkey, warthog, white rhinoceros, wildebeest, Wild dog.

We saw the following insects: African monarch butterfly, Gaudy commodore butterfly.

We saw or heard the following birds: African grey hornbill, blacksmith lapwing, blue waxbill, Burchell’s starling, Cape turtle dove, chanting goshawk, crested barbet, crested francolin, dark chanting goshawk, fork-tailed drongo, freckled nightjar, go-away-bird, green woodhoopoe, grey heron, hammerkop, lilac-breasted roller, magpie shrike, purple indigobird, red billed hornbill, redbilled oxpecker, southern yellow-billed hornbill, spotted eagle-owl, Swainson’s spurfowl, Wahlberg’s eagle, white-backed vulture, yellow-billed hornbill, Chinspot batis, Eagle snake brown, Yellow breasted appalis, Southern white tit.

Activities The activities on offer were twice daily game drives in an open Toyota LandCruiser safari vehicle, in the early morning around dawn and in the late afternoon around sunset. We went on four game drives, some in pouring rain. During half of our stay we shared the vehicle with another couple. A handicapped guest sat in the front seat next to our ranger. The other took up the entire front row, leaving the second and third rows of the vehicle empty. Our ranger kept in touch with other rangers in the area using a silent radio system.

Other Our road transfer to the property required that our transfer service drop us off at a The Thornybush Collection sister property 15 minutes away. From there our guide and tracker picked us up in a safari vehicle and transferred us to Shumbalala. As with all the safari properties we visited in South Africa, Shumbalala required as part of checking into the property that we sign an exhaustive indemnity release.

The water from the tap was potable. Check out was at 10 a.m. There was loud frog song at night. The property recycled whenever possible and gray water was rerouted into the bush. Staff were planning an on-site herb garden. The property supported Eleos, a nonprofit organization based in Johannesburg, by fundraising on its behalf, and selling some of their souvenirs in the shop. As part of The Thornybush Collection, Shumbalala supported several local organizations.

The property was privately owned and part of Equisite Country Lodges, which included the Franschhoek Country House & Villas, a sister hotel in the village of Franschhoek in the Western Cape.

Cleanliness Very good

Date of Last Visit May 2017

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Danielle welcomed us with a moist towel and a serving of sherry to warm us after the early evening game drives. Our suite was serviced twice a day, in the morning and in the evening for turndown service. Sarah, who looked after us, was efficient and guest oriented.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression On our most recent trip to South Africa we particularly enjoyed our stay at Camp Jabulani, named for Jabulani (from the Zulu word for rejoice), a young elephant. We loved greeting and feeding the docile, if strong willed, Jabulani, who grew up among humans after his pachyderm family abandoned him when he became stuck in the mud. The pleasure of being close enough to touch him and Sebakwe, another one of the elephants of the house herd, who were accustomed to humans and lived separate from wild elephants within the reserve, was thrilling and difficult to describe. Both elephants were relaxed and patient during the brief interaction. It helped that a handler distracted them with treats. Although it lasted only a few minutes it was one of the highlights of our stay at the pretty property and of our month long safari voyage.

The family owned and managed Five Star Big Five safari lodge within the private Kapama Game Reserve near Kruger National Park was established to help support Jabulani and later 14 other elephants. We liked the lodge’s intimate and elegant ambience, creature comforts, original art, water feature, attentive dining room service and gourmet dining. We appreciated that for every meal Dylan Frost, the executive chef, came out to the dining room to take our order personally and answer any questions we might have; and that he paid special attention to dietary preferences and restrictions. We were delighted with our expansive 424 square meter comfortable three bedroom, three bathroom Zindoga Villa with living room, dining room, covered terrace, three fireplaces, kitchenette, two plunge pools and plenty of amenities.

We looked forward to private game drives with Dean Wilkinson, our erudite ranger. His descriptions and explanations deepened our understanding of wildlife at the reserve. We especially liked his emphasis on high quality sightings that took into account animal behavior and environmental conditions, and that he angled the vehicle for optimal viewing and photography. Whether it was watching the property’s rescued elephants, enjoying homemade and locally sourced snacks while waiting for a striking sunset or discussing ancient artifacts he found within the reserve we always returned from our time with him feeling enriched. We would easily return to Camp Jabulani and recommend it to friends for its uncommon elephant encounters, outstanding game viewing, luxurious and serene accommodations and gourmet meals.

Children Although there were no children during our stay, the property welcomed kids of all ages at Zindoga Villa. Children older than 12 were allowed in the double occupancy Chalets and the main lodge. Children six and older could participate in elephant interactions. Younger children could join their parents while viewing the elephants swim as well as on game drives. The property also offered Team Tusker, a supervised interactive activity for children under 12. Children above the age of 16 were allowed on bush walks.

Class of Accommodation Five Star Luxury Safari Lodge

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi property wide although the staff recommended we go to the main area for optimum speed. We were able to connect sometimes in our suite. The property was connected through a wireless network with 4 megabyte bandwidth. Download speeds were approximately 1,000 bits per second and upload speeds were around 300 bits per second, depending on the amount of traffic.

General Manager Christo Rachmann and Wilma Rachmann

Handicapped Access Yes, the main lodge was wheelchair friendly and staff were available to assist guests with disabiities, according to a spokesperson.

Length of Stay Two nights

Location Within the private Kapama Game Reserve in South Africa near Kruger National Park. The property was 22 kilometers from Hoedspruit, the nearest city.

Managed Camp Jabulani Pty. Ltd.

Number of Employees 84 including the elephant section

Owned Adine Roode, managing director, and Lente Roode, director

Size Camp Jabulani, situated within the Kapama Game Reserve, a 16,000 hectare safari reserve with four other safari lodges, was 41,400 square meters large. It housed six double occupancy Chalets and Zindoga Villa, a three bedroom, three bathroom suite with capacity for up to eight guests.

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation The property first opened to the public in 2004. In 2012, the Villa was renovated. The most recent renovation was the Chalet roofs in 2016.

Lobby and Common Areas The property décor was Colonial with textures of organic elements for a “harmonious and pleasing balance” between designer and authentic. The common areas, with the exception of the gift shop, were open air to “allow for a communion with the African bush without forsaking optimum comfort.” Decorator touches included distinctive grass-pressed mud walls, stone or wood floors, thatched roofs, sturdy wood furniture, oil paintings, metal sculptures, crystal glasses and silver service.

There were Ardmore Ceramics and art by Stephen Sutherland. One notable original art piece, we found out after our departure, was Shawu by Danie de Jager, a South African artist. Shawu was the largest of the famous Magnificent Seven, large bull elephants renowned for their massive tusks. Shawu held the record for the elephant with the largest recorded tusks in South Africa.

Bathroom The décor of the two large bedrooms, Klaserie and Limpopo, was nearly identical. Sliding glass doors opened onto the outdoor deck and plunge pool. The smaller bedroom had a slightly different layout than the bigger one. The bathrooms were integrated into the bedrooms without walls to mark the beginning of the bathroom, which in the large bedrooms was divided into three main areas. In the central section there was a marble counter, twin sinks, and an oval bathtub with wood handles. In the corner there was a separate room with toilet and bidet. And there was a separate doorless shower with glass walls, partially frosted, and a decorative rock floor feature.

Room We stayed in 424 square meter Zindoga Villa, Camp Jabulani’s luxurious, spacious and comfortable three bedroom and three bathroom suite. It had a large foyer, two large bedrooms, a small bedroom, adjacent living and dining rooms, kitchenette, two plunge pools and spacious outdoor decks. The kitchenette had Samsung microwave, Siemens oven, two burner Miele stove, Defy refrigerator and sink.

I stayed in Limpopo and my travel partner stayed in Klaserie, the two largest of the three bedrooms. The third bedroom had twin beds and was closest to Klaserie. There was separate access for Limpopo from the main path.

In addition to the air conditioned space, the Villa had 225 square meters of decking, some under roof, and the two plunge pools with access via the large bedrooms. There was original artwork, including framed photography, oil paintings and sculptures. There was a gas fireplace in each room and one in the living room. The suite had thatched roofs and high ceilings, plastic flowers, fine fabrics, comfortable well cushioned furniture and a mix of wood and polished concrete floors.

At night the staff spread the mosquito netting that hung from the ceiling around the fourposter beds, removed the light white bedspread and replaced it with a synthetic duvet. There was a complimentary fruit platter with fresh and dried fruit. Each bed had four synthetic pillows. Blackout curtains covered the sliding glass doors and screen doors that provided access to the decks and plunge pools.

Food Meals were plated and guests dined at their own table. Dylan Frost, executive chef, came out to the dining room to take our order for every meal and was attentive to dietary allergies and preferences. His dishes were artfully presented and gourmet oriented with a comfort food touch. For example, he prepared special gluten free buns for the hamburger at lunch, and gluten free sliced bread with meals. Breakfast, served on our return from the morning activity, consisted of a small glass of yogurt with fruit and granola, a small platter of fruit (passion fruit, blueberries, guava, orange slices) and a made to order egg dish. For lovers of hot cereal there was a dish of oats with white chocolate. For lunch one day we had Ginger carrot cold soup (spicy and nice) and big South African sausage style hamburgers with fried egg, bacon, cheese, fries. Dessert was an appetizing dish of poached pears with edible flowers and fresh fruit.

“Our dishes at Camp Jabulani is pretty simple we aim to please and impress guests with dishes that you would never really try before,” said Frost via email. “We do a lot of experimenting and I would say that 95 percent of the time the dish is successful. We will never give a guest the same dish during their stay at Camp Jabulani. We are fortunate enough to have varieties of ingredients at our disposal and we like to use every item that is available to us.”

Frost began his career at the Plettenberg Bay Hotel, a sister Relais and Chateaux property in South Africa. Over time he was promoted up the ranks and moved to the Cellars Hohenort Hotel (sister hotel of the Plettenberg Bay Hotel) in Constantia near Cape Town and back to the Plettenberg Bay Hotel. He started working at Camp Jabulani January 2014 and by November 2016 was promoted to executive chef. Alex Van As, assistant head chef, and Zandrie Boucher, chef, were part of the kitchen staff.

Facilities Curio shop and art gallery, wine cellar, sauna, spa therapy lapa (open air treatment space), and open air workout area.

Pool Zindoga Villa’s two rectangular plunge pools, each 15 square meters and 1.3 meters deep, were accessible via its large bedrooms. There were two cushioned metal lounge chairs by my plunge pool and four Lounge chairs by my travel partner’s plunge pool. There was also a metal table with matching armchairs. Although with nighttime fall temperatures dropping into the low 40s Fahrenheit the water was too chilly for my taste the pool deck was one of my favorite places to spend time in the suite.

Shop The air conditioned Art Gallery and Curio Shop in the main area sold branded clothing (limited size and selection), jewelry, accessories, cards and books; and featured South African art such as oil paintings and metal sculptures, the work of Jean Abrie, Johan Koch, Gert van der Merwe, Stephen Sutherland and ceramic company Ardmore. There were also products from the Out of Alex Embroidery Project and the African Children’s Community Education and Feeding Scheme (ACFS) community initiatives. Items ranged from post cards for 25 rand to art pieces for 4,6000 rand.

Fitness Center and Spa There was a 21 square meter open air treatment space with two treatment tables. I appreciated having a massage in the privacy and comfort of my suite. However, I was cold (the blanket she brought was thin and there was no heating pad). The was a 53 square meter workout area equipped with the following: Johnson multipurpose machine, static bicycle and rowing machine, Trojan treadmill, free weight dumbbells and Detecto scale. There was also a new looking six square meter sauna with a glass wall.

Amenities In addition to accommodations the following were included for guests staying at Zindoga Villa: daily activities (including The Elephant Experience), game drives in open safari vehicles with a canvas top; guided bush walks accompanied by an experienced game ranger; all meals and snacks, local and premium beverages, daily laundry service, “behind the scenes” exclusive visit to the Hoedspruit Endangered Species Centre (six hour requirement for drive and visit), road transfers between Camp Jabulani and Eastgate Airport, wireless internet connectivity, private game drive vehicle and ranger, and chef and butler (we did not have a dedicated chef and butler and all our meals were served in the main lodge), children’s program, sunscreen, insect repellent, Nespresso Coffee machine and capsules, bathrobes, slippers, electronic safe, selection of teas (in-room tea bags), bottled water, and toiletries. The Villa bar had full size bottles of alcoholic beverages. A mini refrigerator in each room was stocked with beer, bubbly, sparkling and still house brand water, individual size bottles of Amarula liqueur, two individual size cartons of orange juice, and one 42 gram serving can of Pringles potato chips.

There was also a cute cloth sewing kit hanging in the closet, cloth laundry bag, individual size Occitane toiletries (shampoo, conditioner, body gel, body lotion), shower caps, extra thick towels, house perfumed body lotion, soap and shampoo in glass bottles, shower caps, and vanity kit. At turn down the staff left a one-page bush short story (How Leopard Got His Spots) and bottled water. The night before our departure they also left fudge, and a printout with the weather for the following day.

Game Viewing Our ranger, Dean Wilkinson, had 13 years of guiding experience and the following qualifications: Field Guides of South Africa (FGASA) Level 2 Field Guide, FGASA Back up Trails Guide, Advanced Rifle Handling, Snake Handling qualification, Photographic certificate, Fynbos specialist qualification and First Aid Level 2.

We saw the following animals: buffalo, bush baby, elephants, giraffe, hippopotamus, impala, kudu, lion, nyala, rhinoceros, scrub hare, warthog, waterbuck, wildebeest, agama.

We saw or heard the following birds: African hoopoe, brown-hooded kingfisher, crested barbet, go-away-bird, green woodhoopoe, helmeted guineafowl, lilac-breasted roller, red billed hornbill, red-crested korhaan, southern yellow-billed hornbill, white crested helmet shrike.

Activities As guests of Zindoga Villa we had a private vehicle and ranger so we could choose the activities and times that best suited us subject to the demands of the bush and the availability of activities. We went on three full game drives and a partial drive (due to the elephant interaction and sunset cocktails the first day that drive was short). The afternoon of our arrival the staff had organized activities, including an elephant interaction, for us. We spent a few minutes with two of the rescued elephants and their handler before driving out to a nearby dam to watch the sunset with sundowner snacks and drinks. Game drives on a Toyota LandCruiser 4.2 Diesel with a canvas top began at 5:30 a.m or 6 a.m. following a wake up call 30 minutes earlier and lasted about three hours. At 12:30 p.m. there was an opportunity to watch the rescue elephant herd bathing. It was up to the elephants whether they went in the water or not. The day we went to observe them they did not to go bathing. In the late afternoon, around 3:30 p.m., there was a second game viewing window. Other options included tracking the rescue elephant herd on foot and visiting the Hoedspruit Endangered Species Centre. Guides communicated via radio, sharing information and coordinating viewings.

Other As with all the safari properties we visited in South Africa, a required part of checking in to the property was signing an exhaustive indemnity release. The property was a member of Relais and Chateaux. After dark a staff person escorted us to our suite.

On the responsible tourism side, Camp Jabulani participated in a recycling program; urged guests to use water sparingly (for example towels were only replaced upon request in order to save water on laundry); and purchased local produce to support the surrounding community. The property had received a TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence every year between 2013 and 2016. Camp Jabulani was best known for its herd of trained African elephants and the Hoedspruit Endangered Species Centre. Camp Jabulani was constructed for the sole purpose of providing a means of income to protect and care for Jabulani (the elephant we met the day of our arrival), a herd of elephants rescued from Zimbabwe and others born at the lodge or who later joined them. According to a spokesperson, monthly expenses for the herd ranged between 30,000 rand and 40,000 rand per elephant.

Cleanliness Very good

Date of Last Visit May 2017

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our suite was serviced twice daily. Shadrick, who looked after us and all guests in the dining room in the morning and at lunch, was friendly and service oriented. Other staff we met, Schalk Candide and Ansie Grobler, were likewise friendly.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression Situated within the Sabi Sand Reserve, one of South Africa’s premier game viewing reserves, the 300 hectare Chitwa Chitwa Private Game Lodge offered an excellent combination of dam front setting, service, intimate ambiance, original art, quiet rooms, luxury accommodations and features, gourmet orientation, and good game viewing with a strong emphasis on the Big Five.

As with our first visit, we liked the comfortable and well furnished rooms with outdoor decks, private plunge pools and distant water views. Made to order meals, dining at a private table and sharing space with only a few other guests enhanced our sense of seclusion. Its dedicated work out and spa treatment rooms as well as a swimming pool were bonus well being amenities we appreciated. We also liked the property’s amply stocked gift shop. For short periods we braved the blistering midday heat to spend time on the main deck, where there was good bird viewing on the trees adjacent to the deck and game viewing of the animals that made their way to the dam. While at the property we had excellent photography opportunities. The downside? The only internet access was in the library and office and it was excruciatingly slow. Because we needed to confirm our international flights it was inconvenient. At a time when we want to disconnect from the internet that would not necessarily be a draw back.

We liked Chitwa Chitwa’s artistic style, private ambiance, guest focus and foodie orientation, well appointed accommodations, amenities and facilities, including in-room private decks and plunge pools. We would recommend the lodge to friends and acquaintances who are fans of boutique safari properties, fine meals with a liberal dose of hot spices, and Big Five game viewing.

Children The property welcomed children older than six on safari drives with other guests. Families with younger children were able to hire a private vehicle.

Class of Accommodation Five Star Lodge

Connectivity There was very slow Wi-Fi access in the central area of the property. There was a computer in the library connected to the internet for guest use. On the third day, I was able to connect and download emails.

General Manager Chantal and Stefan du Toit

Handicapped Access The property had ramps for wheelchairs.

Length of Stay Three nights

Location On the northern side of the Sabi Sand Reserve in South Africa.

Owned And Managed Charl Brink

Size There were eight rooms (six double and two two-bedroom rooms) in the 300 hectare property with 42 employees.

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation The property opened in 1992 and the most recent renovation was in 2009.

Lobby and Common Areas A property representative described the decorative style as Unique with original artwork by Maria Brink, the owner’s wife, peppered thought the common areas and rooms.

Bathroom In Room 9, just past the vanity a wood door lead to a bathroom with polished concrete floors, a white and silver color theme and a beautiful view of the bush and the dam in the background. Because there was no air conditioning device inside the bathroom it was warmer than the room from which it was separated by a partial wall that did not reach the ceiling. The walls were covered with tiny tiles. It had two metal sinks across the room from each other, a doorless shower with two shower heads pointing at each other (not a favorite in part because the water pooled in the middle), a separate bath adjacent to an oversize window facing the bush and dam, and a toilet and bidet behind a glass brick half wall. There was a leather armchair in front of the bath tub and a wood cabinet for towels. There was another small wood cabinet with toiletries in the toilet and bidet section.

The bathroom in Room 1 was divided into a walk-in closet, a water closet and an ablutions area. The water closet was adjacent to the walk-in closet. Behind the closet there was a single space facing the deck and bush. It had a doorless shower with a pretty flower tile design on the bottom half of the wall, stand alone oval bathtub, and twin oval sinks beneath a large square mirror. Glass walls and a door meant clear views of the bush and the deck from that area.

Rooms We stayed in neighboring Deluxe Rooms 1 and 9. They were in separate buildings set thirty feet apart at their closest point, ensuring privacy and quiet. They were the first two rooms from the game viewing arrival and departure parking and reception area. From the main wood decking that connected the main building and the reception area a narrow dirt path lead to Room 1.  Room 9 was further down, to the left and slightly up via the same dirt path.

Both rooms were furnished in elegant contemporary safari style. They had expansive bush views. The dam could be seen in the distance as well. They had air conditioning (at times the cooling units struggled to keep the rooms cool during our summer visit), polished concrete floors, thatched roofs, over long gauzy see-through white curtains and wood shutters, and comfortable furniture. They had original artwork, including oil paintings and framed photos. Each one was divided into four main sections, a living area, a sleeping area, a bathroom, and a covered outdoor deck with a plunge pool. The living and sleeping areas were in a single continuous space without any walls or dividers.

My room, Room 9, the first room built, was spacious and comfortable although it was showing minor signs of aging in styling and wear. I particularly loved its expansive and elevated views of the adjacent bush and in the distance the dam. Although it was near reception and a two-minute walk from the work out and spa rooms the room offered privacy and quiet. Raised up somewhat from the ground and surrounded by boulders it had a striking side view, through the glass doors, of the bush and dam from the bed, sitting area, bathroom, and especially from the plunge pool deck.

Immediately to the right of the door there was a sitting room furnished with a vanity. To the left there was a walk-in closet and before it a tall wood table. In the center, there was a black leather sofa framed by a wood cabinet on one side and a stone and metal side table and lamp on the other. There was also a rectangular metal and glass coffee table, a white leather armchair, and a wood side table with a lamp.

Four glass and wood door sets lead onto the pool deck, one from the bathroom, one from the living area, and two from the sleeping area. There was a colorful area rug in the living room and a putty color area rug in the sleeping area. Rectangular framed mirrors of various sizes hung above three of the cabinets and the fireplace.

Past the sitting section there was a double bed set against a large wood headrest, which was about 15 inches thick and wider than the bed itself. At night, the staff used the twin silver tone lamps atop it and wood extenders to set up the mosquito netting around the bed. The mosquito net had several holes. There were spiders and other insects climbing around in the net. Tiny bits of thatch fell on the bed sheets. There were six feather pillows, and a thin blanket sandwiched between sheets. During the day, the bed was dressed with a white on white cotton bed cover.

A built-in stone fireplace took up the far wall. Across from it there was a wood cabinet housing a hot beverage service with rusks (South African style hard cookies). At the bottom there was a mini refrigerator stocked with complementary beverages (refillable glass bottles of still water, Coca-Cola and Coke Light, Parmalat individual size milk cartons), two limes and snacks (two candy bars and two 47 gram containers of Pringles potato chips).

The wood deck was a wonderful place to spend time, relax, watch for birds in the neighboring trees and with binoculars for animals in the dam. When it became too hot the plunge pool was refreshing. The deck had two to sides connected to each other, one to the left of the room and one immediately in front of it. To the left there were two comfortable armchairs as well as one large and one small wood table. The other side of the deck housed a round plunge pool, two lounge chairs and an outdoor shower affixed to a tree (a favorite).

Room 1 had a wood and opaque glass door that slid inward when it opened. The entrance to Room 1 led to a round wood dining table and two cushioned cloth armchairs. To the left and up a step on the polished concrete floor there was a large bed, framed by twin wood and glass tables with identical lamps, set against an oversize headboard. At night the staff spread the mosquito netting that hung from the ceiling around the bed. At the foot of the bed there was a two tone bench. On the side there was a wood cabinet beneath a framed wood mirror.

The living area across from the bed was furnished with charcoal gray sofa framed by twin metal and glass end tables, cloth and wood armchair, wood and glass coffee table and stool, all of which faced the stone brick built-in fireplace. A lamp with a huge lampshade hung above the sofa. There was a full size mirror and a stool in the corner next to a table with a phone. A cabinet with a hot beverage service and mini refrigerator, pre-stocked like mine, took up the corner. There were area rugs in the bedroom, dining and living areas. Next to the dining area an armoire housed an electronic safe and some amenities.

Glass and wood doors led onto the deck. Deck furniture blocked one door and the other door did not close well so it was easier to access the deck from the bathroom. The spacious deck, with ample shade, looked onto the bush in the foreground and the dam in the background. It was furnished comfortably with a gray futon, two beige cloth armchairs, a faux snake patterned round table and a wicker table atop an area rug in the covered part of the deck. On the left side there was a cushioned adjustable wicker lounge chair for two near the pool. On the opposite side of the deck there was an outdoor shower.

Food Breakfast was served at 8 a.m., lunch at 1:30 p.m. and dinner at 8:15 p.m. Lunch and dinner were plated and made to order from a set menu. The dinner service included silver cutlery and crisp white linen napkins. Most dishes were made with a liberal dose of hot spices.

We were seated at our own table placed at enough distance from neighboring tables to permit private conversation. Breakfast and lunch were served in the Lapa, a dedicated shady area set to one side of the main building and facing the dam. It meant we could enjoy our meals while observing game and birds visiting the dam. Dinner was served twice on the main deck beneath the stars and once in the boma. The staff provided us special cotton wraps to don for the boma dinner. They were available for purchase should we wish to support the nonprofit organization that made them.

Breakfast consisted of a generous gourmet cold buffet of two fresh squeezed juices (orange and pomegranate), fresh sliced fruit (cantaloupe and watermelon) and whole fruit (oranges, plums, pears), several types of dry cereal, several types of yogurt, dried goji berries, mango and dates, separate cheese, salmon and deli plates, and several varieties of sliced bread. One morning there were mini sticky buns (a favorite). Hot breakfast options included eggs, bacon, rocket, avocado, mushrooms, tomato, tomato and onion sauce, and spicy chorizo.

A light lunch menu with three options was offered in the morning for us to order in advance. The day we arrived, they served us lunch on our room deck. We had small hamburgers with french fries. We especially enjoyed the seclusion and views of the dam. For the first night we were offered a printed menu during the day in order for us to select our choice from one of two appetizers and one of two main courses. On the second night, they served a grilled buffet dinner in the boma of chicken, kudu, pop (a corn dish), roasted zucchini and squash, roasted potatoes, creamed spinach and chickpeas. Most of the main dishes were seasoned with chili or hot spices, including the hamburgers at lunch. The second day my travel partner ordered Satay pork dish and I ordered the deli platter. It came with chicken liver pate, sweet pickled onions, radish and cucumber salad, three types of cheese, semi crunchy crackers, strips of dried beef and sliced salami.

At tea there were fresh fruit such as cherries as well as cake (coffee cream cake, cheese cake with a caramel topping). In the morning before the game drive, there were fruit smoothies, fresh fruit, two types of hard cookies (rusks), oatmeal squares and granola bars with dried fruit. It was our favorite of the nicest pre game drive services during out month long safari trip.

We had two elaborate sun downer evenings shared with guests from other vehicles and visitors, one with a gin and and tonic theme and the other with a craft beer theme (beverages were charged separately). There was a great number of snacks from cured meat to honey and aged cheese, cheese and chili samosas, biltong (dried cured meat strips), mozzarella cheese and tomato skewers, dried sausage, olives,

For dessert at dinner, we had pudding made with evaporated milk and vodka. There was also a banana meringue tart, and on the final night we had Amarula (a berry liqueur) and chocolate pie with Amarula.

Amenities Twice daily game drives, meals, snacks on game drives, and laundry were included in the nightly rates. There was a stocked mini bar filled with cold beverages, including bottled water, soft drinks, wine and snacks. There were white cotton bathrobes, slippers, adapter plug, umbrellas, electronic safe, Mohoni orange and sandalwood vanity kits, shower caps, dental kit, mosquito repellent, insect spray, toiletries in refillable sizes (shampoo, conditioner, body wash, and body lotion), one small bar of soap, scented bath salts, blow dryer and game viewing check list. In the game viewing vehicles there was rain gear. In the rooms, there were also full-size and tea size candles, sewing kit, tissues, plenty of bath towels, and sherry.

Facilities Library, bar, spa room, work out room, outdoor swimming pool, boma (outdoor dining enclosure), and gift shop.

Fitness There was a 30 square meter workout area with an exercise bicycle, home gym, treadmill and elliptical trainer.

Pool There was an outdoor 1.8 meter deep infinity swimming pool in the main area overlooking the dam (a favorite for short laps). It was 5 meters by 3 meters large. Next to it there were two fixed position synthetic weave and metal lounge chairs. Rolled up towels were stacked on a stool on the side of the pool. A tree provided partial shade. Each suite had a 1.8 meter deep pool. The one in my room was round while my travel partner’s pool was rectangular.

Shop Across from reception there was a single room curio shop selling branded clothing, children’s games, locally made souvenirs (the sale of some items benefited a local nonprofit), scarves, a few costume jewelry pieces, crystals, and decorative items. Prices ranged from 40 rand for a postcard to 6000 rand for a beaded wall hanging of the Big Five. To visit it was necessary to ask a staff person to open the shop.

Spa The spa treatment room was 20 square meters large. There was air conditioning, but during our summer visit it barely cooled down the room. On the first day there were no spa treatments available because the therapist was out sick. On the second day, there was so much pent-up demand for spa treatments I had to have lunch an hour early in order to squeeze in a massage before our afternoon game drive. I had a 90 minute deep tissue massage with Tandi. She cleaned the soles of my feet with a moist towel before beginning the treatment.

Game Viewing We went on five game drives during our stay. There were four of us in our game viewing vehicle, a LandRover Defender with a three bench configuration. The maximum number of guests per vehicle was eight. The sound of lions calling at night during cocktails and dinner enhanced our experience. Our guide was Rodney and our tracker was Ransom.

We saw the following animals during our stay: buffaloes, cheetah, elephants, giraffe, scrub hare, hippopotamus, spotted hyena, impala, kudu, leopards, lions (including lions mating, and lions with a young buffalo), elephants, dwarf mongoose, vervet monkey, nyala, white rhinoceros, tree squirrel, steenbok, waterbuck, wildebeest, Burchell’s zebra, and leopard tortoise,

We saw or heard the following birds: arrow-marked babbler, black-collard barbet, little bee-eater, jacobin cuckoo, fork-tailed drongo, African fish-eagle, tawny eagle, Wahlberg’s eagle, grey go-away-bird, Egyptian goose, helmeted guineafowl, African grey hornbill, red-billed hornbill, yellow-billed hornbill, woodland kingfisher, red-crested korhaan, Verreaux’s eagle-owl, lilac-breasted roller, green sandpiper, wattled starling, saddle-billed stork, white-backed vulture, land esser-masked weaver.

Activities There were twice daily game drives. On request there were walks after breakfast. Our guides communicated with other guides from our property and properties where Chitwa Chitwa had traversing rights using a silent radio. That meant there was no radio static during the game drives. The policy in case of rain during a drive was to continue the drive in the rain. There were four guides and three safari vehicles.

Other Although there was a fence designed to keep elephants out of the property the large mammals trespassed with ease and other animals walked around often, especially after sundown. One of the elephants visited our rooms at midday, curious to explore and almost having a drink from our plunge pools. At night we had to be escorted by a staff person, usually our guide, to and from our rooms. It was possible to call between rooms and to reception. For local and international calls it was necessary to call reception. There was spotty cell reception within the property. Smoking was allowed on the deck of the rooms, in the boma, and on the main deck.

The source of electricity was municipal and there was a back up generator. The tap water, sourced from a borehole (well) and filtered, was potable. It had a slightly salty taste. The property hired local staff. Laundry for underwear was not available. The property was recognized as winner of the 2015 World Luxury Awards African continent Luxury Game Lodge.

Cleanliness Very good

Date of Last Visit December 2015

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our rooms were serviced twice a day. Staff were attentive, many of them friendly and service oriented. In addition to the managers, the staff members we met were Busi, Pinkie, and Tandi. Eucan. On our return from the game drives the staff handed out moist refresher towels. On arrival and departure there were Chitwa Team welcome and good-bye notes in our rooms.

Would You Stay Again? Yes