Overall Impression On rare occasions throughout my traveling life, I have come across a place so exceptional that I knew at first glance the experience would never leave me. Mumbo Island Camp was one such place. Located ten kilometers (six miles) offshore from Cape Maclear, in the heart of the 9,400 hectare (36.30 square mile) Lake Malawi National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Center, the tiny island first appeared as a tumble of giant boulders rising straight up from the shimmering water. As we drew closer small reed and thatch chalets barely distinguishable from the tangle of trees began to materialize. We coasted to as stop at a wooden jetty to the warm welcome of camp manager Juliet Dahmen and her staff, and I set foot onto the most pristine tropical retreat I ever visited. The camp was located on two islands. The common areas were sitting just beyond the soft curve of a pretty golden sand beach on the main island. Meanwhile, a long wooden footbridge led to a granitic promontory jutting into the lake, where guest accommodations were perched at the edge of the rocks under a thick canopy of miombo woodland.

This was off the grid living at its idyllic best. Until the National Parks authorities first awarded Kayak Africa the exclusive rights to operate tourism accommodations on the one square kilometer (250 acres) island in 1996, it had never been populated. To preserve its unspoiled state, the company created a minimalist property run on uncompromising sustainable principles in harmony with the natural beauty of its unique lake setting and where life naturally fell into the primeval rhythms of the sun and the moon.

My days at the camp began at dawn with a wakeup call from a red billed hornbill enthusiastically welcoming the new day in the tree next to my room. I would then quietly settle on the terrace to contemplate the blood orange sunrise gently pale into a clear morning while small boats darted across the lake on their way home from a night of fishing. Sometimes during that time a staff member had delivered on silent feet a tray laden with tea and cookies at the edge of the terrace. Later, on my way to a hearty breakfast in the dining room, I would pause on the footbridge to take in the bright kayaks and lounge chairs neatly lined at the edge of the beach and the gentle crystal clear waves lapping at the freshly swept sand. Another day in paradise had begun.

After a day spent snorkeling among of cichlids, the small colorful fish that have evolved into endless varieties and for which the lake is famous, or rediscovering the bliss of hours whiled away in a hammock, I welcomed the staff’s invitation to watch the sunset. Around the island we cruised, to just the optimum stop to watch the sky morph into improbable shades of bronze to crimson to purple before fading to dark. Later at night, after a simple and delicious meal by the soft glow of paraffin lanterns, I returned to my room and settled on what I had quickly come to think as “My Rock” to watch the reflection of millions of diamond stars in the tranquil waters of the lake, and the horizon outlined by the myriad pinpoint lights of hundreds of fishermen trying to lure fish to their boats. Was it the stars or the fishermen that moved 19th century English missionary explorer David Livingstone to give the place the moniker of The Lake of Stars? Both, I reckon.

With the charm of simple accommodations enhanced by its strong responsible tourism ethos, warm and attentive staff, uniquely relaxing environment and the best freshwater snorkeling I have experienced, Mumbo Island Camp has become one of my most treasured African destinations.

Camp Manager Juliet Dahmen was the on site camp manager. Joseph Kamanje managed operations on the mainland.

Children The property welcomed children of all ages.

Class Of Accommodation Adventure eco camp.

Connectivity My GSM 3G/4G international cellular phone did not operate, nor was there any Internet connection on the island. However, 2G phone communications were possible with a GSM card from local service providers.

Handicapped Access Because of the topography of the small rocky island, it could not provide handicapped access.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location An hour’s motorboat ride off Cape Maclear, on the southern shore of Lake Malawi. Cape Maclear, was a four hour drive east from Lilongwe, the capital, and five hours north from Blantyre, the country’s second largest city.

Owned-Managed Kayak Africa, a South Africa based company owned by Clive Bester and Jurie Shoeman, owned and managed Mumbo Island Camp.

Size The property consisted of five tents that could accommodate a maximum of 10 guests on the small island plus a twin tented family unit located in the forest near the beach and common areas on the main island. That unit could accommodate up four guests for a camp total of 14. Mumbo Island employed a staff of 20.

Year Open-Renovated The camp opened in 1996. According to staff, it has been the object of on going maintenance and enhancement ever since.

Lobby And Common Areas The common areas consisted of three wooden platforms under thatch, wedged around the boulders within a grove of mature trees at the upper edge of the beach. A short uphill walkway followed by a few stairs led to the dining area, which was opened on all four sides to views of the beach and the forest. The dining room was furnished with heavy locally made square tables and high back chairs of polished wood, with seat cushions covered in royal blue and black chitenjes cloth (chitenjes are cotton sarongs in bold African prints worn by local women). Along the back wall, a wooden counter that followed the outline of the rock served as buffet table for breakfast and lunch. Next to it, a low bookcase held a small library of paperback books.

At the far end of the room, the bar had a reed covered backdrop and base with a polished wood top. To the right of the bar, a few steps led up to a small curio shop while to the left, a few steps led down to the lounge. Nestled under a baobab, the lounge had a roughhewn wooden sofa and a matching long coffee table that held a large hand carved bao game (traditional board game) always at the ready. Three pairs of reed woven barrel chairs separated by occasional tables were arranged around the room. All seat cushions were covered chitenjes cloth in shades of green and black. A small red hand painted wooden chest completed the décor.

Bathroom A short open air raised walkway separated the bathroom hut from the room. A corner vanity with a reed base and a polished wood top held a built in white ceramic sink with cold running water. A small, wood framed mirror hung above the sink. Dark green terry cloth hand and bath towels hung on the wall above the dry composter toilet and the large basked of wood shavings used to “flush” (N.B. This long drop toilet collected waste in a sealed box that was designed to promote rapid drying and decomposition of waste through the use of the sun’s energy). The shower enclosure had an overhead bucket shower, where solar-heated hot water was delivered by prior request any time during the day.

Room My 15 square meter (160 square foot) tent, Number Four, was a simple reed and thatch room perched on a huge granite boulder overlooking the dazzling waters of the lake. The back and side walls had open window frames with reed blinds and wooden shutters. The wall facing the lake was fully open to the endless view. Large reed double doors could be closed in case of inclement weather. The floor was covered with a wall to wall handwoven straw mat with a matching circular throw rug in the center of the room. At the rear of the room, twin beds with woven bamboo headboards were separated by a wooden bedside chest. The entire sleeping area was enclosed at night by billowing blue mosquito netting edged with chitenjes cloth in shades of green and gold. On the left side of the room under the side window, a sturdy hand built wooden coffee table held a bottle of drinking water and two glasses made of recycled wine bottles. A ceramic dish served as a paperweight for a small assortment of magazines on wilderness related topics. On the opposite side of the room, a bamboo luggage rack and a tall canvas shelving unit on a bamboo frame provided storage. On the rocky ledge at the front of the room, two reed barrel armchairs and a dark blue canvas hammock created an ideal lounging space for reading, star gazing, bird watching or simply dozing off while contemplating the mesmerizing beauty of the lake.

Meals The kitchen staff consistently dished out generous meals of delicious, healthful foods using fresh, locally sourced fruit and vegetables as well as eggs, poultry and fish. The day began with a tray of tea or coffee with home baked cookies deposited on the deck of my room. A cold breakfast of freshly baked breads, cold cereals, yogurt, sliced local fresh fruits, fruit juices, tea and coffee was served buffet style. There was also a cooked to order breakfast menu. Lunch was also buffet style with a choice of salads and savory pies and a light dessert. The three course dinner was plated. Dietary requirements could be accommodated by prior arrangement.

Amenities Room amenities included two kikois (local thick striped cotton sarongs) and glass bottles of natural, bio degradable shower gel and shampoo. Meals, drinking water, tea and coffee, as well as the use of kayaks, swimming masks, snorkels and fins, and guided snorkeling and motorboat cruises around the island were included. Bottled soft drinks and alcoholic beverages were available for an additional charge. Laundry service was available at a reasonable per bag fee. There was a 24 hour turn around time as laundry had to be shipped back to the mainland for washing.

Beach The beach had all the charm of a remote tropical ocean resort, minus the salt and surf. There were eight lounge chairs with royal blue canvas cushions and a matching hammock strung between two shade trees. It was an ideal spot to relax between swims and snorkeling sessions, or to enjoy the antics of a colony of bright yellow southern masked weavers endlessly engaged in nest building activities. At the far end of the beach, in the water sports gazebo Owen, a boatswain and guide, was ready to dispense warm smiles along with the right snorkeling equipment, kayaking instruction, and in my case paddling assistance, or to lead a snorkeling expedition in some of the best fish viewing nooks around the island.

Facilities There was a dining room and bar, lounge, curio shop, water sports gazebo and a massage deck.

Gift Shop There was a small curio shop with a selection of textile items, knickknacks and jewelry by local craftspeople.

Activities Daily activities included swimming in the warm waters of the lake and snorkeling around the maze of underwater boulders filled with innumerable species of brightly colored cichlids; kayaking, hiking along the well marked trails around the island or, a favorite sunset treat, cruising around the island in the camp’s motorboat. Diving could also be arranged with an independent Cape Maclear dive school to all the nearby diving sites.

Wildlife viewing Other than the ubiquitous rainbow skink (small, brightly colored lizard), monitor lizard and one inquisitive brown spotted necked otter occasionally sighted observing us on offshore rocks, wildlife on the island consisted mainly of birds, with African fish eagle, white breasted cormorant, pied king fisher and southern masked weavers a constant sight. Other birds I sighted included red billed hornbill, African harrier hawk, reed cormorant, green backed heron, spectacled weaver, blue waxbill, red capped robin chat and white tailed swallow.

Other Although the camp did not have a dedicated spa facility, a thatch and wood massage deck was set in a private forested area area behind the camp. Massages could be scheduled by prior arrangement with a South Africa licensed massage therapist from Cape Maclear.

Electricity on the island was solar generated. It was produced in quantities sufficient to power the water pump and charge solar lanterns for the guest accommodations, and to use along the walkways where lighting was required all night. Each room also had a wind up flashlight. Additional lighting around the camp was provided by paraffin lanterns. Any personal electronic equipment had to be transported back to the mainland for overnight recharging. It was returned the next day.

The property was constructed mainly with plantation timber. Chemically treated timber was used only when absolutely necessary. Other construction materials were from renewable local resources, mainly bamboo, grasses and reeds, and a limited amount of canvas. While the original guest accommodations had been walk in tents under thatch, these were progressively being replaced by new reed and lumber rooms. The camp’s water supply was pumped from Lake Malawi via a solar powered pump. A gasoline powered backup pump was available. Water was purified through silver impregnated ceramic filters and suitable for drinking as well as oral hygiene.

Cleanliness Good

Date Of Visit October 2013

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service My tent was serviced twice daily. Every member of the staff with whom I came in contact was friendly and attentive.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Located on the western side of Malawi’s Nankumba Peninsula, an area widely recognized as one of the most scenic around Southern Africa’s Lake Malawi, Pumulani was discretely tucked into a steep hillside. The only luxury property along the protected shores of the 9,400 hectare (36.30 square mile) Lake Malawi National Park and UNESCO World Heritage Center, Pumulani was designed by Dutch architect G. Hooft Graafland. In addition to a striking main lodge high on the hill and wide open to the endless lake vistas and the long aquamarine infinity pool below, he designed the property’s ten spacious rooms nestled into craggy granite outcrops around the hillside, each with a secluded private deck with lake views. Under their vegetal roofs of endemic grass meant to help offset their footprint and regulate their interior temperature, the rooms all but disappeared within their lush forest surroundings.

In addition to my superb accommodations, what I appreciated most was the friendly and flawlessly attentive personalized service of the Pumulani management and staff. I quickly noticed that things always seemed to happen at the very moment I thought of them. I arrived by road, after a slower than anticipated ride through bustling market towns, so it was well after lunchtime by the time I reached the property. As I was being escorted to my suite after a warm welcome from Alex Eigner, the lodge manager, as my stomach was about to remind me about lunch, a menu materialized, with the assurance that my choices would be ready when I was. When I returned to the lodge shortly thereafter, I found a table set on a crisp white tablecloth under a market umbrella on the terrace, facing the shimmering expanse of the lake. Lunch was just prepared chicken and wild mushrooms spring rolls on a bed of caramelized eggplant and a lovely, lightly dressed salad of field greens and sun ripened local tomatoes. Scrumptious. So was the traditional spongy caramelized Malva Pudding dessert with its warm custard sauce.

As I was leaving the terrace, another query: would I care for a sunset cruise on the dhow that day. It sailed at four o’clock. When I showed up at the beach I found two of the beach staff busily stacking bright pillows on the benches of the traditional handmade wooden ship, hoisting its iconic triangular sail and setting up a bar for sundowner cocktails and nibbles, for me alone. I couldn’t have wished for a more idyllic sunset, enjoying the rustling of the sail in the gentle breeze and the haunting call of African fish eagles along the shore. Later that night, as I was gazing at millions of pinpoint stars hanging in the black velvet sky, Alex just happened by to ask: “would you like to have a look in the telescope?” The telescope in question was a professional size affair mounted on a wooden platform, where one of the guides, an expert astronomer, walked me through the constellations and the planets.

At Pumulani, even the wildlife was service minded, such as the family of vervet monkeys that showed up at dawn each day in a tree over the deck of my room to wake me up in time to enjoy the sunrise. Then, I took the short walk from my front door to the pool where between laps I watched fishing boats return home after a night on the lake.

The property stood out for its five star trimmings such as sundowner dhow cruise, outstanding anticipatory service, gourmet food, state of the art features ranging from architecture to telescopes with the lake as the backdrop. With its unique brand of luxury hospitality and peerless surroundings, Pumulani offered me an unforgettable lakeshore experience that stood out for its topography, biology and still pristine state, one that I will yearn to repeat whenever travel plans take me anywhere in East or Southern Africa. As I recently heard myself explaining to friends pondering an African safari: “consider making Pumulani a mandatory detour. If you don’t, you may never know what you missed but I will be sorry for you that you did.”

Camp Managers Alex and Karien Eigner.

Children Pumulani welcomed children of all ages. A specially appointed family room was at the lowest part of the property, near the beach. Staff could be available with prior notice to organize supervised water and land activities for children.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury beach lodge.

Connectivity Pumulani was the only property I visited in Malawi that had working WiFi connections throughout the day (although at the erratic mercies of the local service provider). As I found it to be the case throughout the country, my GSM 3G/4G international cellular phone did not operate. However 2G communications were possible with a local GSM card.

Handicapped Access Motion impaired guests could be accommodated by prior arrangement on a case by case basis.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location On the western side of the Namkumba Peninsula, at the southern end of the lake, the edge of the Lake Malawi National Park, and a three hour drive east from Lilongwe.

Owned-Managed The property was part of the Robin Pope Safaris portfolio owned by Molecaten, a private Dutch family owned company. Cees Slager was chief executive officer of Molecaten. Ton de Rooy, a family member, was general manager for East Africa.

Size The property consisted of ten rooms that could accommodate a total of 26 guests. It employed a staff of 40 including four management personnel and five beach attendants, boatswains and guides. Vehicles included one transfer motor vehicle, one dhow, three sailboats, two motorboats and eight kayaks.

Year Open-Renovated Pumulani opened in July 2008, and had been the object of meticulous maintenance ever since, according to property representatives.

Lobby And Common Areas The lodge was furnished in an understated contemporary style with inviting groupings of similar rattan sofas and armchairs arranged about the covered space and open terrace of the bar. Coordinated high chairs were lined in front of a long bar topped with a slab of light polished wood. The dining area had rectangular natural wood tables, that could comfortably accommodate up to four guests, and matching ladderback chairs. The tables were lined along the terrace, generously spaced to ensure privacy while offering everyone a front row view of the lake. Tables could also be arranged in the sheltered area if desired. A few steps away from the lodge, a semicircular sandy terrace with a low fieldstone wall held a fire pit surrounded by bright coral canvas director chairs for evening cocktails or nightcaps under the stars.

A soaring two story foyer housing a spacious bar, lounge and dining areas in a lake facing enfilade, all offering sheltered and open sky options, was a striking decorative element in itself. The lodge had walls and ceilings of cream painted plaster and natural wood ceiling beams offset by dark flagstone tiled floors throughout. In the foyer, the focal point was an oversized tribal shield hanging above a semicircular writing desk with an intricate driftwood base and plate glass top, and a black high back desk chair in the center of the outer wall. Along the central wall that divided the foyer from the bar, two black woven rattan sofas with light gray cushions faced each other across a large coffee table.

Bathroom The vast bathroom (three meters by six meters or 9.7 feet by 20 feet) was to the right of the bedroom. It had an open corner double shower area tiled with Persian green mosaic. A deep claw footed bathtub of gleaming white porcelain stood on a low wooden platform in the center of the wall that separated the bathroom from the foyer. Next to it, a towel rack held white terrycloth bath and hand towels. On the opposite wall, two matching circular washbasins and a supply of washcloths and toiletries sat on the wooden top of a long masonry vanity. Two tall mirrors built into the wall and surrounded by green glass mosaic hung above the sinks. The lavatory was behind a full height partition at the far end of the room.

Suite My 130 square meter (1,400 square foot) suite, Number Two, was a wedge shaped retreat perched high on a hill, one level below the main lodge. The interior was divided by a wall into separate sleeping and living areas. The walls and ceilings were cream plaster with exposed ceiling beams and tan polished concrete floors. A long foyer included a pantry with a bar sink, under counter refrigerator, and a tea and coffee service. It opened into a sitting room and bedroom at the far end of the structure. Both rooms opened onto a large deck with a view of the bush and the lake. The two sitting room outer walls were a blend of floor to ceiling windows and sliding double doors that gave the space an inviting sunroom atmosphere. Furnishings included a long rolled arm sofa upholstered in mauve chintz with bright blue accent pillows, a rattan chest that doubled as a coffee table and two rattan slipper armchairs with matching cushions. A large butler’s tray held a generous assortment of reading materials on wilderness related topics.

The bedroom occupied the rear corner of the suite. Its far wall was a set of glass sliding doors with tan canvas draperies. A king size bed draped in a pristine mosquito netting canopy and a wide headboard that doubled as bedside table occupied the center of the back wall. A luggage rack on the left and low shelving unit on the right provided storage space. A semicircular polished wood shelf hung in the center of the opposite wall beneath a tall wood framed mirror. The shelf and a white bentwood desk chair doubled as a roomy writing area and dressing table. A rattan slipper armchair sat in the far corner of the room near the glass doors. Matching chair cushions and bed scarf in shades of pastel blue and green added a touch of color to the décor. In addition to a ceiling fan, the bedroom had a silent ceiling hung air conditioning unit. An arched doorway in the central wall led to the bathroom. Throughout the suite, lighting was provided by bleached driftwood floor lamps and wall sconces with gray linen shade. The deck ran the width of the suite. It was furnished with two blue and white director’s chairs and a small round coffee table under a market umbrella.

Food Chef Tapiwa Stepen Mamutse and his team served an imaginative variety of international cuisine prepared with fresh, organically grown produce, poultry, dairy and fish sourced from vetted local suppliers. A cold breakfast of freshly baked breads, yogurt, cut local fresh fruits, granola, assorted fruit juices, tea and coffee was served buffet style. There was also an extensive English breakfast menu. Lunch and dinner were a la carte, with lunch consisting of a choice of two main courses and dessert. The three course dinner also featured two main course choices. Special dietary requirements could be accommodated by prior arrangement.

Amenities In my room, the pantry had a tea and coffee service including an electric kettle, granulated coffee, an assortment of caffeinated and herbal teas and a jar of freshly baked cookies. Its refrigerator was stocked with an assortment of complimentary soft drinks, beer, cider and bottled water, and fresh milk. Room amenities included tissues, room and body insect repellent spray, emergency whistle, electronic safe, kikois (local thick cotton sarongs), thick terrycloth bathrobes and slippers, votive candles, insect repellent body cream, golf umbrellas and a basket convenient to carry personal items around the lodge.

Bathroom amenities included pump bottles of good quality eco friendly house brand shower gel, shampoo, body moisturizer and hand soap as well as a shower cap and a hairdryer.

Meals, soft drinks, house alcoholic beverages, and daily laundry service were included in the nightly rate. Local snorkeling, fishing, sailing, kayaking and related equipment, nature walks, mountain bike tours and village tours as well as sunset cruises on the traditional dhow were also complimentary. Vintage wines, connoisseur spirits, and motorized water sports such as diving, snorkeling excursions, waterskiing and tubing were available at additional cost.

Beach Raised walkways and stairs led down from every part of the property to a private golden sand beach surrounded by mature trees with hammocks gently swinging in the breeze. Wooden lounge chairs with bright canvas cushions under striped market umbrellas were arranged around the sand. At the rear of the beach under the trees, there was a beach bar on a low, shaded wooden deck. Light snacks and drinks were available there. In addition to the bartender, beach staff assisted with water sports equipment and handed out beach towels on demand.

Facilities A dining room, lounge and bar, beach and beach bar, gift shop and swimming pool.

Gift Shop A small gift shop was located off the lodge’s foyer. It carried a limited assortment of crafts and lodge branded safari accessories.

Pool The 15 meter (50 foot) long by five meter (16.5 foot) wide infinity pool was one flight of stairs below the main lodge, on a terraced deck with a dazzling view of the lake. It was surrounded by nine lounge chairs with dark gray canvas cushions, shaded with large canvas umbrellas. A long wooden bench with crimson and yellow striped pillows was set into the hill’s field stone retaining wall. At night, underwater illuminations turned the pool a dramatic sapphire blue that reflected the stars and the moon above.

Activities In addition to a wide array of water sports and breakfast or sunset cruises in the traditional dhow, the property offered guided walks and mountain bike rides from the lodge into the hills for birding or simply to enjoy the lake views. It was also possible to go on a guided visit to the nearby village. I particularly enjoyed dawn swims in the swimming pool. They were unlike anything I have experienced anywhere in Africa.

Other Electricity was available around the clock. The property was on the national electric grid and was equipped with a backup generator able to replace electricity from the grid within a few minutes in case of power failures. There were several outlets in my room, conveniently fitted with universal adapters to accommodate North American, European and South African plugs.

Pumulani was opened for guests from April through January. The water supply was from a bore hole tested on a regular basis and suitable for oral hygiene. The property recommended and provided bottled drinking water.

The property operated within high standards of responsible tourism practices, with staff recruited mainly from nearby villages on the lake. Staff members were trained on site with a focus that went beyond their specific functions to achieving an overall understanding of the lodge’s operation and an opportunity for professional advancement. Pumulani was recognized in 2011 and 2012 as Malawi’s Leading Hotel by World Travel Awards.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit October 2013

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service My suite was serviced twice daily. Every member of the staff with whom I came in contact was friendly and attentive.

Would You Return? Yes