Overall Impression Malawi is a small landlocked country in southeast Africa (less than half the size of the United Kingdom) that had until recently attracted little notice from tourists. With its growing population exceeding 16 million living mainly in rural areas and its economy largely based on subsistence agriculture and international aid, it is one of the least developed nations in the world. However, this long, narrow wedge of granitic land shaped by the Great Rift Valley is home to spectacular vistas of rolling plateaus and mountainous regions dotted with wilderness reserves and national parks.

Dominating the entire country is Lake Malawi, the famous Lake of Stars of 19th century English explorer David Livingstone. Some 580 kilometer (360 mile) long and 75 kilometer (46 mile) wide at its largest, with depths that can reach down 700 meters (2,300 feet) and sun drenched beaches of soft golden sand tucked within its dramatic shores of high granite boulders, the lake had the feel of a fresh water inland sea. At the southern end of it, the Lake Malawi National Park and UNESCO World Heritage Site, with its tiny secluded islands and crystal clear waters was especially breathtaking and popular among water sport enthusiasts.

The Shire River flows out of Lake Malawi to snake along striking rocky banks on its southward journey down the Rift Valley toward Mozambique and the Zambezi River. Along the way it reached the two foremost wildlife reserves in the country. First, on the upper reaches of the river, the Liwonde National Park offered boating safaris that allowed an exceptional opportunity to enjoy close water access to the large population of elephants, hippos and crocodiles, as well as a vast array of waterfowl and birds. Further down river, along the lower Shire Valley, the Majete Wildlife Reserve after being poached to near oblivion in the 1980s and 1990s had been rehabilitated and restocked through a painstaking decade long effort to become the first Big Five safari destination in the county. Tourist facilities, including luxury properties, have appeared in these magnificent wilderness and lake areas but remain limited in number, promising an outstanding quasi private wilderness experience for visitors.

Climate The climate was typical of tropical inland regions, with a dry season from May to November. I experienced daytime temperatures around 30 degrees Celcius (86 Fahrenheit), and cooler nights in the southern part of the country and at the lake. The dry bush and the shortage of water that drove animals to the remaining waterholes and the river made for superior game viewing.

Cost Of Visiting Moderate

Currency The country’s unit of currency is the kwatcha, abbreviated internationally to MWK and simply K locally. At the time of my visit, there was an exchange rate of 425 MWK per United States dollar.

Electrical Current Electricity was based on the 220/240 volt system. The electric grid supply was somewhat erratic. Most of the tourism facilities where I stayed generated their own solar electricity and all had backup gas or diesel generators. A NW-135C adapter was necessary when using electrical outlets (as used in the United Kingdom)

How To Get There There were no direct flights from the United States to Malawi. I flew via Europe where there were nonstop flights to hubs in Nairobi or Johannesburg with connecting flights from Kenya Airways and South African Airways respectively to Lilongwe and Blantyre. Air Malawi also offered regional links between Malawi and Kenya, South Africa, Zambia and Zimbabwe. A valid passport was required for entering Malawi. Visas were not required for tourists from the United States, most European Union and British Commonwealth countries or Japan.

Location Malawi is located in southeastern Africa. It is bordered by Zambia to the northwest, Tanzania to the northeast and Mozambique to the south, southeast and southwest.

Measures The metric system prevailed.

Money Issues The properties I visited accepted U.S. dollars and credit cards. Local vendors in tourist areas also readily accepted cash in U.S. dollars, but did not accept denominations lower than five dollar bills (with change returned in local currency). I had been forewarned that one dollar bills were not accepted or exchanged anywhere in Malawi due to counterfeiting problems in the past. There were ATMs in the three main cities, Lilongwe, Blantyre and Mzuzu, that dispensed local currency only.

Technology The telephone system was rudimentary, with local mobile phone service apparently more reliable than landlines. My international 3G/4G GSM telephone had only rare random reception. However, reliable 2G communications were possible with a GSM card from local service providers. A slow WiFI connection was available in the urban areas and at some of the properties.

Time GMT/UTC + 2 hours

Transportation With relatively short distances between the destinations on my itinerary I used pre arranged road transfers to get around. While secondary roads were unpaved, main roads were paved, in reasonably good shape and with little motor traffic. Driving was on the left and speed was limited as it was commonplace to find people and animals on any road. Air links were available between cities and the main tourism destinations.

Health And Vaccinations Since all of Malawi was a malaria zone, I took the usual daily malaria prophylactics prescribed by my local travel medicine clinic. The United States Center for Disease Control and Prevention (C.D.C.) recommended precautionary tetanus, typhoid and hepatitis A vaccination and identified the country as a high risk area for HIV/AIDS. Additionally, I was made aware of a possible risk of contracting bilharzia if bathing in some parts of Lake Malawi. However, the properties I visited routinely tested the waters in the vicinity of their beaches and snorkeling areas to ensure they were free of the parasite.

Facilities There were banks, department stores, markets and supermarkets, pharmacies, some Internet cafes and cell phone stores, as well as limited healthcare facilities the cities. These became rare outside of the urban areas, with health care facilities virtually nonexistent. Safari properties required guests to carry mandatory emergency evacuation insurance.

Shopping And Souvenirs I saw Supermarkets and European style shops in Lilongwe and Blantyre only with small markets and general stores in small towns and larger villages. Roadside vendors were ubiquitous in the countryside. Souvenirs included good quality woodcarving and straw goods as well as attractive small jewelry articles. In the markets, bargaining was expected.

Tourism Highlights By far the most popular tourist destination in the country was Lake Malawi. Little appeared to have changed in the century and a half since the legendary missionary explorer became the first known westerner to feast his eyes on the dazzling immensity of water. Fishing villages may have multiplied under the baobabs that dotted the shore, and of late a few tourism resorts had appeared, discretely peering from the forested slopes of the most scenic coves. But the lake was so vast that great swaths of shoreline still appeared mostly empty. And each evening I could still see pinpoint of lights blinking on its surface as fishermen hung lights to attract the fish to their boats as they had for centuries. And in the past decade, the Lake of Stars had also become increasingly recognized as a beach vacation paradise for its warm, crystal clear waters and the broad gamut of water sports offered.

South Malawi boasted more national parks and wildlife reserves than the remainder of the country. I especially enjoyed the Lilwonde National Park, considered Malawi’s premier game park, for its mix of boating and open top all wheel drive vehicle safari experience, including evening drives using a powerful spotlight to view nocturnal animals. However, my favorite park was the Majete Game Reserve for its heartwarming success story (as well as excellent game viewing). After its near demise in the late 1990s, the reserve was taken over in 2003 by African Parks, an international nonprofit organization dedicated to the rehabilitation and long term management of national parks in partnership with governments and local communities. After undergoing significant infrastructure development and massive translocation of wildlife (over 2,500 animals from 13 different species), Majete was home to a visibly thriving population of elephant, black rhino, leopard, lion, buffalo, sable antelope, zebra, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest and eland.

Date Of Visit October 2013

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Would You Visit Again? Yes

Overall Impression The Majete Wildlife Reserve in southern Malawi was a rare game viewing destination as yet mostly undiscovered by tourists. Originally proclaimed a protected area in 1955, the 70,000 hectare (270 square mile) swath of Africa’s Great Rift Valley in the lower Shire River had suffered such extensive poaching in the 1980s and 1990s that it had been all but written off as a wildlife reserve. In 2003, African Parks, an international nonprofit organization committed to the rehabilitation of Africa’s national parks took over the management of Majete. They have since methodically restored the park’s bio diversity and reintroduced over 2,500 animals including rare and endangered species. With the recent reintroduction of lions and leopards, Majete became the only Big Five park in the country. Nestled within a 7,000 hectare (27 square mile) private concession with exclusive tourism rights in one the most spectacular areas of the reserve, Mkulumadzi achieved a perfect balance of idyllic seclusion and first class accommodations in the repopulated wilderness area.

I reached the lodge, located at the confluence of the Shire and Mkulumadzi Rivers, via an impressively engineered 88 meter (290 foot) long suspension footbridge over the Mkulumadzi River, a walk that always made me feel like an adventurer of old. Stretched along a half kilometer of scenic riverbank dotted with giant leadwood and marula trees, the main lodge and guestrooms were open fronted to maximize the dramatic river views. Beyond its spectacular setting Mkulumadzi was also remarkable for successfully translating its responsible tourism practices into a superb luxury travel experience. The entire property was designed to minimize its impact on the environment while offering high levels of creature comforts. Under vegetal roofs of endemic grass and succulents that helped offset the structures footprint and regulate their interior temperature, the rooms all but disappeared within their natural surroundings. The entire facility was solar powered. Electricity was available around the clock in my room where I could enjoy modern conveniences including a ceiling fan, abundant hot water in the bathroom’s elegant sunken bathtub and open air shower. There was even an innovative “evening breeze” high efficiency air conditioning unit that hung over the bed’s canopy to contain cooling within the mosquito net area.

The staff was one of the greatest assets of Mkulumadzi. Recruited mainly from the local villages just outside the park, the members were trained on site with a focus that went beyond specific functions to receiving an overall understanding of the lodge’s operation and opportunities for professional advancement. Their pride in being an integral part of the Mkulumadzi community was reflected the excellence of the service and cheerful, positive atmosphere I enjoyed throughout my stay. And the commitment of the management to responsible tourism extended beyond the property to on going community projects, such as developing local organic agriculture to supply the lodge’s kitchen. There, Guy Kleynhans, a talented young South African chef, had created a healthful, refined international menu with a pan African accent, the like of which I have seldom enjoyed outside of sophisticated urban eateries.

My room was comfortable and the game viewing drives were rewarding. Overall, Mkulumadzi was an outstanding property in every way that mattered to me. While there I had a memorable African wilderness experience. And my pleasure while discovering the remote destination was greatly enhanced by the knowledge that my visit was in a small way contributing to the development of responsible tourism, and through it to the conservation efforts of Malawi as a whole.

Camp Manager Chris and Emma Kilner.

Children Mkulumadzi welcomed children of all ages by prior arrangement. A dedicated game drive vehicle and guide were required. Due to the proximity to wild game, children under the age of 12 could not participate in walking safaris.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury safari lodge

Connectivity There was no Internet or cell phone service in the park. An emergency hot spot was available near the park’s entrance.

Handicapped Access Motion impaired guests could be accommodated by prior arrangement on a case by case basis.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location In the Majete Wildlife reserve in Southern Malawi, a two hour drive southwest from Blantyre airport.

Owned-Managed The property was part of the Robin Pope Safaris portfolio owned by Molecaten, a private Dutch family owned company. Cees Slager was chief executive officer of Molecaten. Ton de Rooy, a family member, was general manager for East Africa.

Size The property, situated within a 7,000 hectare (27 square mile) private concession, consisted of eight guestrooms that could accommodate a maximum of 16 people and employed a staff of 28, including four guides and four rangers. There were three game viewing vehicles and one motorboat for excursions on the Shire River.

Year Open-Renovated Mkulumadzi opened in July 2011.

Lobby And Common Areas Under a soaring thatch roof, the sprawling main lodge had a contemporary décor in muted shades that mirrored the colors of the river and the dry season bush. The entrance foyer set the tone with a polished rocks and driftwood art installation set on an “area rug” of river stones. The rear of the lodge consisted of cream adobe walls, while the front opened onto terraces and decks that reached out toward the river. To the left of the entrance, the dining area’s rectangular natural wood tables were surrounded by woven rattan armchairs. Against the rear wall, a tall dividing screen made of wooden poles concealed the entrance to the kitchen and served at a backdrop for the buffet table. In the center of the room a cross section of an ancient tree trunk, polished to a high gloss and evoking at first glance a striking room size modern sculpture of an antelope stood on a double pedestal. The dining room opened onto a deck where six tall lounge chairs made of fiberglass burnished to shades of bronze sat in pairs around a matching low coffee table. Against their backdrop of bush and riverbank scenery, they added a sculpture garden feel to the deck.

To the right of the entrance, between a small gift boutique and a half wall divider overlooking the lounge area, a corridor led to the public lavatories. In front of the divider, a long antique storage chest with wrought iron fittings held a collection of reading material on wilderness related topics. A grouping of rustic wooden candlesticks with pillar candles outlined the top of the divider. Two steps down led to the lounge and bar level. In the lounge, a classic rolled arm sofa and two matching wingchairs upholstered in cocoa brown cotton were arranged around a long tree trunk coffee table. At the far end of the lounge, four tall rattan chairs were lined in front of a bar topped with a thick, roughhewn slab of dark wood. The lounge and bar areas extended onto an open deck where a series of gray rattan barrel chairs with natural canvas cushions and pastel toss pillows could be arranged at will around small coffee tables. Beneath the deck, a large fire pit surrounded by a circle of dark gray canvas director chairs sat in a clearing by the riverbank.

Bathroom The bathroom occupied the far side of the room. Along the interior wall, a polished concrete vanity with a thick mahogany top held two circular limestone basins. A large rectangular mirror in a wooden frame hung above it. Two contemporary pewter wall sconces provided lighting. Wall hung towel racks and rings in matching pewter held brown terry cloth bath and hand towels. An ample supply of facecloths and toiletries sat on the vanity. An oval sunken bathtub was set in the front corner of the room by a wrap around window wall with a stunning view of the confluence of the Shire and Mkulumadzi rivers. Within a privacy wall tiled in golden limestone mosaic the outside shower with its overhead rain showerhead shared the view. There was a separate water closet at the rear of the room.

Room My 70 square meter (755 square foot) room, Number One, had a large living space with an open façade and outdoors viewing deck overlooking the Shire River. Throughout the room, the floor was tan polished concrete and the walls were cream plaster. Natural canvas drapes and shades could be drawn across the open front of the room. The sleeping area was separated from the entrance foyer by a counter height pantry with a coffee and tea service, including jars of freshly baked granola bars and an under counter minibar. To the left of the entrance, the sitting area had a long builtin corner sofa with gray canvas cushions and a cappuccino colored velvet slipper armchair. Between them, a long tree trunk coffee table held an assortment of reading materials on African wilderness topics. A triptych of floral wall hangings in tones of gold and greens, and yellow toss pillows added a touch of color.

In the center of the room, a king size bed stood in front of a half wall with builtin metal reading lights that served as headboard and bedside tables. The entire sleeping area was swathed in snowy mosquito netting. A floor to ceiling natural canvas panel separated the bed from a storage unit that lined the rear wall. On the far side of the room, a bentwood armchair sat in front of a large wall hung shelf and mirror with an elaborate twig art frame that doubled as a writing desk and dressing table. A curved deck ran along the front of the room. With its two ecru canvas director chairs separated by a tree stump coffee table, it was an ideal place for armchair viewing of the abundant birdlife around the river. In addition to a ceiling fan, the room was equipped with an innovative “Evening Breeze” air conditioning unit suspended above the bed canopy. The unit, which worked entirely off of an electric battery storage system, was designed to cool the space within the mosquito net only.

Meals A cold breakfast of freshly baked breads, yogurt, cut local fresh fruits, granola, assorted fruit juices, tea and coffee was served buffet style. There was also an English breakfast menu cooked to order. Lunch and dinner, consisting of a choice of two main courses and dessert for lunch and a three course dinner which also featured two main course choices, were plated. The Mkulumadzi kitchen was under the direction of Chef Guy Kleynhans, who created a simple yet refined international menu with a panAfrican accent.

In spite of the remote bush location Chef Kleynhans and the local staff that he personally mentored consistently dished meals where the freshest of ingredients were cooked to perfection and beautifully presented. An example was the beef schawarma platter served as a luncheon option: a generous mound of slivered beef surrounded by a variety of side dishes ranging from minty middle eastern style cucumber in yogurt dressing to spicy shredded beetroot salad and a stew of local chili peppers. Desserts were irresistible and featured international favorites with original touches such as chocolate tart on a tangy raspberry coulis, velvety smooth pane cotta on a bed of light butterscotch, and classic crème brulée enhanced by a towering web of delicately spun sugar.

Amenities Room amenities included tissues, room and body insect repellent spray, emergency whistle, electronic safe, kikois (local thick cotton sarongs), terrycloth bathrobes and slippers, votive candles, a mini bar stocked with soft drinks and fresh milk for coffee and tea, assorted caffeinated and herbal tea bags, granulated coffee, homemade granola bars, a convenient basket to carry personal items around the lodge and a large golf umbrella.

Bathroom amenities included pump bottles of good quality eco friendly house brand shower gel, shampoo, body moisturizer and insect repellent cream, hand soap and a shower cap. Meals, soft drinks and house alcoholic beverages were included, as were daily game viewing activities and daily laundry service. Vintage wines and connoisseur spirits were available for an additional charge. I received a complimentary refillable aluminum water bottle.

Facilities Open space dining room, lounge and bar, gift shop and swimming pool.

Gift Shop A small gift shop was located near the main entrance of the lodge. It carried local crafts and a limited assortment of lodge branded safari accessories.

Pool The kidney shaped pool was nine meters (30 feet) long and four meters (12 feet) large at its widest. It was surrounded by a broad deck lined with eight wooden lounge chairs with thick gray canvas cushions separated by side tables and ecru canvas market umbrellas. Like all guest facilities at Mkulumadzi the entire pool area overlooked the river.

Activities In addition to early morning and late afternoon game drives that routinely extended to about four hours each, I enjoyed game viewing from the common areas and my private deck. The game drives departed at about 6:30 a.m. and 4 p.m. Our guide carried a shotgun in the vehicle in case of an emergency. The property also offered boating safaris and birding trips on the Shire River, bush walks and hikes in the Majete Hills. Because the boat was undergoing repairs it was only available the final day of my visit when unseasonable inclement weather prevented us from going out.

The game viewing was consistently rewarding. I saw game and bird life during the drives such as my first ever (and repeated) sightings of sable antelopes and was able to get good close up shots of the unusual African hoopoe bird. Game drives took place in a late model open sided vehicle with three tiered rows of seats that could accommodate up to nine but was limited to maximum of a five guests. My guide, Samuel Chihana, was a 14 year veteran of several parks throughout Malawi. He was knowledgeable and attentive, striving to ensure that I experienced the best that the Majete fauna and flora had to offer.

Game I sighted included Cape buffalo, crocodile, eland, elephant, hippo, impala, kudu, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, reedbuck, black rhino, sable antelope (my first sighting ever), waterbuck and zebra.

Birds included African fish eagle, harrier hawk, hoopoe and palm swift, lilac-breasted roller, malachite, pied and giant kingfisher, water thick knee, green backed heron, little and swallow tailed bee eater, bateleur eagle, palm nut vulture, African darter, ground, yellow billed and gray hornbill and Egyptian geese.

Other The lodge ran on solar power supplemented by a Silent Pack diesel generator that provided back up on cloudy days. Electricity was available around the clock. There were several outlets in my room, conveniently fitted with universal adapters to accommodate North American, European and South African plugs.

A borehole supplied the water for the property. It was filtered and tested on a regular basis, and was suitable for drinking and oral hygiene. However, bottled water was also available on demand for guests who preferred it. In addition to the ongoing effort to develop local organic agriculture, there was also a kitchen garden of vegetable and herbs on the property.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Visit October 2013

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service My room was serviced twice daily. Every member of the staff with whom I came in contact was friendly and efficient. Property managers Chris and Emma were exceptionally charming and attentive.

Would You Return? Yes

Overall Impression On rare occasions throughout my traveling life, I have come across a place so exceptional that I knew at first glance the experience would never leave me. Mumbo Island Camp was one such place. Located ten kilometers (six miles) offshore from Cape Maclear, in the heart of the 9,400 hectare (36.30 square mile) Lake Malawi National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Center, the tiny island first appeared as a tumble of giant boulders rising straight up from the shimmering water. As we drew closer small reed and thatch chalets barely distinguishable from the tangle of trees began to materialize. We coasted to as stop at a wooden jetty to the warm welcome of camp manager Juliet Dahmen and her staff, and I set foot onto the most pristine tropical retreat I ever visited. The camp was located on two islands. The common areas were sitting just beyond the soft curve of a pretty golden sand beach on the main island. Meanwhile, a long wooden footbridge led to a granitic promontory jutting into the lake, where guest accommodations were perched at the edge of the rocks under a thick canopy of miombo woodland.

This was off the grid living at its idyllic best. Until the National Parks authorities first awarded Kayak Africa the exclusive rights to operate tourism accommodations on the one square kilometer (250 acres) island in 1996, it had never been populated. To preserve its unspoiled state, the company created a minimalist property run on uncompromising sustainable principles in harmony with the natural beauty of its unique lake setting and where life naturally fell into the primeval rhythms of the sun and the moon.

My days at the camp began at dawn with a wakeup call from a red billed hornbill enthusiastically welcoming the new day in the tree next to my room. I would then quietly settle on the terrace to contemplate the blood orange sunrise gently pale into a clear morning while small boats darted across the lake on their way home from a night of fishing. Sometimes during that time a staff member had delivered on silent feet a tray laden with tea and cookies at the edge of the terrace. Later, on my way to a hearty breakfast in the dining room, I would pause on the footbridge to take in the bright kayaks and lounge chairs neatly lined at the edge of the beach and the gentle crystal clear waves lapping at the freshly swept sand. Another day in paradise had begun.

After a day spent snorkeling among of cichlids, the small colorful fish that have evolved into endless varieties and for which the lake is famous, or rediscovering the bliss of hours whiled away in a hammock, I welcomed the staff’s invitation to watch the sunset. Around the island we cruised, to just the optimum stop to watch the sky morph into improbable shades of bronze to crimson to purple before fading to dark. Later at night, after a simple and delicious meal by the soft glow of paraffin lanterns, I returned to my room and settled on what I had quickly come to think as “My Rock” to watch the reflection of millions of diamond stars in the tranquil waters of the lake, and the horizon outlined by the myriad pinpoint lights of hundreds of fishermen trying to lure fish to their boats. Was it the stars or the fishermen that moved 19th century English missionary explorer David Livingstone to give the place the moniker of The Lake of Stars? Both, I reckon.

With the charm of simple accommodations enhanced by its strong responsible tourism ethos, warm and attentive staff, uniquely relaxing environment and the best freshwater snorkeling I have experienced, Mumbo Island Camp has become one of my most treasured African destinations.

Camp Manager Juliet Dahmen was the on site camp manager. Joseph Kamanje managed operations on the mainland.

Children The property welcomed children of all ages.

Class Of Accommodation Adventure eco camp.

Connectivity My GSM 3G/4G international cellular phone did not operate, nor was there any Internet connection on the island. However, 2G phone communications were possible with a GSM card from local service providers.

Handicapped Access Because of the topography of the small rocky island, it could not provide handicapped access.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location An hour’s motorboat ride off Cape Maclear, on the southern shore of Lake Malawi. Cape Maclear, was a four hour drive east from Lilongwe, the capital, and five hours north from Blantyre, the country’s second largest city.

Owned-Managed Kayak Africa, a South Africa based company owned by Clive Bester and Jurie Shoeman, owned and managed Mumbo Island Camp.

Size The property consisted of five tents that could accommodate a maximum of 10 guests on the small island plus a twin tented family unit located in the forest near the beach and common areas on the main island. That unit could accommodate up four guests for a camp total of 14. Mumbo Island employed a staff of 20.

Year Open-Renovated The camp opened in 1996. According to staff, it has been the object of on going maintenance and enhancement ever since.

Lobby And Common Areas The common areas consisted of three wooden platforms under thatch, wedged around the boulders within a grove of mature trees at the upper edge of the beach. A short uphill walkway followed by a few stairs led to the dining area, which was opened on all four sides to views of the beach and the forest. The dining room was furnished with heavy locally made square tables and high back chairs of polished wood, with seat cushions covered in royal blue and black chitenjes cloth (chitenjes are cotton sarongs in bold African prints worn by local women). Along the back wall, a wooden counter that followed the outline of the rock served as buffet table for breakfast and lunch. Next to it, a low bookcase held a small library of paperback books.

At the far end of the room, the bar had a reed covered backdrop and base with a polished wood top. To the right of the bar, a few steps led up to a small curio shop while to the left, a few steps led down to the lounge. Nestled under a baobab, the lounge had a roughhewn wooden sofa and a matching long coffee table that held a large hand carved bao game (traditional board game) always at the ready. Three pairs of reed woven barrel chairs separated by occasional tables were arranged around the room. All seat cushions were covered chitenjes cloth in shades of green and black. A small red hand painted wooden chest completed the décor.

Bathroom A short open air raised walkway separated the bathroom hut from the room. A corner vanity with a reed base and a polished wood top held a built in white ceramic sink with cold running water. A small, wood framed mirror hung above the sink. Dark green terry cloth hand and bath towels hung on the wall above the dry composter toilet and the large basked of wood shavings used to “flush” (N.B. This long drop toilet collected waste in a sealed box that was designed to promote rapid drying and decomposition of waste through the use of the sun’s energy). The shower enclosure had an overhead bucket shower, where solar-heated hot water was delivered by prior request any time during the day.

Room My 15 square meter (160 square foot) tent, Number Four, was a simple reed and thatch room perched on a huge granite boulder overlooking the dazzling waters of the lake. The back and side walls had open window frames with reed blinds and wooden shutters. The wall facing the lake was fully open to the endless view. Large reed double doors could be closed in case of inclement weather. The floor was covered with a wall to wall handwoven straw mat with a matching circular throw rug in the center of the room. At the rear of the room, twin beds with woven bamboo headboards were separated by a wooden bedside chest. The entire sleeping area was enclosed at night by billowing blue mosquito netting edged with chitenjes cloth in shades of green and gold. On the left side of the room under the side window, a sturdy hand built wooden coffee table held a bottle of drinking water and two glasses made of recycled wine bottles. A ceramic dish served as a paperweight for a small assortment of magazines on wilderness related topics. On the opposite side of the room, a bamboo luggage rack and a tall canvas shelving unit on a bamboo frame provided storage. On the rocky ledge at the front of the room, two reed barrel armchairs and a dark blue canvas hammock created an ideal lounging space for reading, star gazing, bird watching or simply dozing off while contemplating the mesmerizing beauty of the lake.

Meals The kitchen staff consistently dished out generous meals of delicious, healthful foods using fresh, locally sourced fruit and vegetables as well as eggs, poultry and fish. The day began with a tray of tea or coffee with home baked cookies deposited on the deck of my room. A cold breakfast of freshly baked breads, cold cereals, yogurt, sliced local fresh fruits, fruit juices, tea and coffee was served buffet style. There was also a cooked to order breakfast menu. Lunch was also buffet style with a choice of salads and savory pies and a light dessert. The three course dinner was plated. Dietary requirements could be accommodated by prior arrangement.

Amenities Room amenities included two kikois (local thick striped cotton sarongs) and glass bottles of natural, bio degradable shower gel and shampoo. Meals, drinking water, tea and coffee, as well as the use of kayaks, swimming masks, snorkels and fins, and guided snorkeling and motorboat cruises around the island were included. Bottled soft drinks and alcoholic beverages were available for an additional charge. Laundry service was available at a reasonable per bag fee. There was a 24 hour turn around time as laundry had to be shipped back to the mainland for washing.

Beach The beach had all the charm of a remote tropical ocean resort, minus the salt and surf. There were eight lounge chairs with royal blue canvas cushions and a matching hammock strung between two shade trees. It was an ideal spot to relax between swims and snorkeling sessions, or to enjoy the antics of a colony of bright yellow southern masked weavers endlessly engaged in nest building activities. At the far end of the beach, in the water sports gazebo Owen, a boatswain and guide, was ready to dispense warm smiles along with the right snorkeling equipment, kayaking instruction, and in my case paddling assistance, or to lead a snorkeling expedition in some of the best fish viewing nooks around the island.

Facilities There was a dining room and bar, lounge, curio shop, water sports gazebo and a massage deck.

Gift Shop There was a small curio shop with a selection of textile items, knickknacks and jewelry by local craftspeople.

Activities Daily activities included swimming in the warm waters of the lake and snorkeling around the maze of underwater boulders filled with innumerable species of brightly colored cichlids; kayaking, hiking along the well marked trails around the island or, a favorite sunset treat, cruising around the island in the camp’s motorboat. Diving could also be arranged with an independent Cape Maclear dive school to all the nearby diving sites.

Wildlife viewing Other than the ubiquitous rainbow skink (small, brightly colored lizard), monitor lizard and one inquisitive brown spotted necked otter occasionally sighted observing us on offshore rocks, wildlife on the island consisted mainly of birds, with African fish eagle, white breasted cormorant, pied king fisher and southern masked weavers a constant sight. Other birds I sighted included red billed hornbill, African harrier hawk, reed cormorant, green backed heron, spectacled weaver, blue waxbill, red capped robin chat and white tailed swallow.

Other Although the camp did not have a dedicated spa facility, a thatch and wood massage deck was set in a private forested area area behind the camp. Massages could be scheduled by prior arrangement with a South Africa licensed massage therapist from Cape Maclear.

Electricity on the island was solar generated. It was produced in quantities sufficient to power the water pump and charge solar lanterns for the guest accommodations, and to use along the walkways where lighting was required all night. Each room also had a wind up flashlight. Additional lighting around the camp was provided by paraffin lanterns. Any personal electronic equipment had to be transported back to the mainland for overnight recharging. It was returned the next day.

The property was constructed mainly with plantation timber. Chemically treated timber was used only when absolutely necessary. Other construction materials were from renewable local resources, mainly bamboo, grasses and reeds, and a limited amount of canvas. While the original guest accommodations had been walk in tents under thatch, these were progressively being replaced by new reed and lumber rooms. The camp’s water supply was pumped from Lake Malawi via a solar powered pump. A gasoline powered backup pump was available. Water was purified through silver impregnated ceramic filters and suitable for drinking as well as oral hygiene.

Cleanliness Good

Date Of Visit October 2013

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service My tent was serviced twice daily. Every member of the staff with whom I came in contact was friendly and attentive.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Stretched along the banks of the upper Shire River in southern Malawi, the 580 square kilometer (220 square mile) Liwonde National Park was known for its large population of hippos (mvuu in the local Tonga language). Located at the edge of a lagoon across the river from the park entrance, Mvuu Lodge could be reached only by boat. It immediately lived up to its name as we made our way across under the wary gaze of clustered periscope eyes from several hippo pods scattered around the water. Hippos were ubiquitous around the property as well, from large wooden sculptures in the lounge and guest tents to small beaded table ornaments.

Yet, when I reminisce on my visit to Mvuu Lodge, what I remember most are elephants. Not only could they occasionally be heard at night strolling by my tent, sometimes stopping to snack on the scenery on their way to the water, but they were an awe inspiring sight all along the river. It is always exciting for me to sight elephants anywhere in the bush, but to be able to observe, at close range from a small motorboat, the behavior of a whole bachelor herd of big tuskers for an entire morning was a unique experience. They were drinking and splashing themselves with powerful trunkfuls of water and feeding on the high savanna grass along the shore when we first sighted them.

Then a fascinating performance began as they spent the next half hour seemingly testing the water while considering the advisability to march in for a full bath. They all waded in over time, and then started horsing around like teenagers at the beach, splashing and pushing each other below the water before rearing back up. This playful band of bulls put on such a show that that we barely noticed a couple of small breeding herds making their way across the river in orderly lines a short distance away. In addition to elephants, the banks of the Shire River were teeming with a variety of antelopes, and such an abundance of raptors and waterfowl that it would in itself have made for a satisfying viewing morning. Meanwhile, at the rear of the boat, a member of the staff was cooking a bountiful brunch for us.

It was a rustic wilderness property with a casual atmosphere and many creature comforts. The open sided, thatched main area was tucked away in a grove of yellow acacias. Raised high into the trees, it provided an ideal, hide like retreat to observe the constant activity of the lagoon with its resident family of warthogs and large colony of oversized crocodiles that hung out at the edge of the water like malevolent logs. Located off the long raised walkway leading from the main area to the boat dock and swimming pool, even the public lavatory had a view. At the rear of the public areas, neat sandy paths led to the tented guestrooms. Mine, a spacious tent under thatch was nestled in the lush riverine vegetation a five minute walk from the main area, every step along the way a birding opportunity.

The people of Mvuu Lodge were warm and welcoming. With her infectious smile and unfailing attentiveness, camp manager Sarah Glyde set the tone for the entire staff. Everyone was friendly and eager to please, treating even the most casual query as a wish that needed to be acted upon forthwith.

With its privileged water’s edge location and abundant wildlife in one of the most scenic areas of Liwonde National Park, its relaxed comfort and warm hospitality, Mvuu Lodge provided me an ideal introduction to the little known wilderness of Malawi.

Camp Manager Sarah Glyde

Children The property welcomed children starting at the age of 12.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury tented bush camp

Connectivity Phone service for my GSM 3G/4G cellular international phone was not available around the property and only intermittently in random areas around the park. There was no WiFi connection at the property.

Handicapped Access Motion impaired guests could be accommodated by previous arrangement on a case by case basis.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location The tented property was within the Liwonde National Park, a 120 kilometer (70 mile), two hour drive north from Blantyre, the second largest city in Malawi.

Owned-Managed Mvuu Lodge was owned and managed by Wilderness Safaris, a subsidiary of Wilderness Holdings. Keith Vincent was chief executive officer of Wilderness Holdings.

Size The property consisted of eight guest tents that could accommodate a maximum of 16 guests. It employed a dedicated staff of 17, including three guides and rangers. The property shared additional maintenance and support personnel with the adjoining Mvuu Camp. There were two game viewing vehicles and two motorboats.

Year Open-Renovated The property opened in 1998. A full upgrade began in 2003, with the latest unit added in 2008. According to property representatives, it has been maintained meticulously since that year.

Lobby And Common Areas Raised one full flight of stairs on a wide oval deck under thatch, the main area was open on three sides to the lagoon and a verdant grove of mature trees for a relaxing treehouse feel. The floor was made of gleaming wide plank hardwood. To the right of the stairs, the dining area had two rows of rectangular wooden tables covered with white tablecloths and pastel green and blue batik overlays. They were surrounded by sturdy ladderback chairs with green canvas seat cushions. The lounge occupied the remainder of the space. A tall library bookcase filled with a good collection of books on wilderness related topics stood next to the bar at the rear of the room. The bar was a long hardwood slab top on a woven reed base. Several wooden loveseats and armchairs with thick brown and tan cushions and ecru toss pillows were arranged in a semicircle around the room. Two square coffee tables sat on tan and white cowhide rugs in the center of the room. A modern telescope on a tripod faced the lagoon. A collection of local baskets hung on the wall behind the bar and a number of hippo themed wooden sculptures and knick knacks were scattered around the room.

Bathroom The bathroom included a large shower area with a rainfall showerhead and a separate lavatory. A freestanding island held a double sink vanity. A large mirror and an overhead light hung above it from the ceiling. The partition separating the bathroom from the sleeping area held a rack with a supply of anthracite grey bath and hand towels and face cloths.

Tent My 515 square foot (48 square meter) tent, Number Six, was raised several feet above the bush on a large platform with a wide wraparound deck. Both tent and deck sat under a thick thatched roof. It was comfortably casual with basic necessities without being especially fancy. The tent’s front and deck side wall were made of fine mesh that allowed the air and light to flow through while keeping insects at bay. At night, natural heavy cotton drapes were drawn across the mesh. There were also rolled up flaps on the exterior side of the tent that could be fastened down in case of inclement weather. The sleeping area had a comfortable king size bed with soft taupe cotton bedding. Small rectangular bedside tables held hurricane style electric reading lights. A canopy of mosquito netting hung above the bed, and a large woven rattan trunk with a carved wooden lid sat at the foot it.

A reed partition separated the bedroom from the bathroom in the rear right corner of the tent. On the opposite side of the tent, a pair of oversized cocoa brown rattan armchairs with plump cushions covered in brown and beige safari print provided seating. A small rectangular coffee table held a couple of safari themed photography books. Three screened double doors opened onto the side deck. The rear wall of the tent held storage shelves and a clothes hanging rack. On the side deck, outdoor furniture included two rattan armchairs, a coffee table and a large hammock on a floor stand. A raised walkway led to an outdoor shower surrounded by reed walls.

Meals The food was fresh, wholesome and well prepared by Chef Hussein and his kitchen staff. All vegetables and fruits were organic and locally sourced, as were the eggs and poultry. The ingredients not available locally were imported from South Africa. The day began with tea or coffee and freshly baked cookies deposited at the door of my tent in a wicker hamper. A cold breakfast of freshly baked breads, cold cereals, yogurt, sliced local fresh fruits, fruit juices, tea and coffee was served buffet style. There was also a cooked to order breakfast menu. Lunch was served buffet style and consisted of a choice of salads and savory pies, and a light dessert. A three course dinner was plated. Special dietary requirements could be accommodated by prior arrangements.

Amenities Room amenities included body and room insect repellent spray and coil, candle and matches, insulated jug of chilled drinking water, two cotton kimonos, checklist of local fauna and flora, electronic safe and air horn for emergencies.

Bathroom amenities included terry cloth bathrobes, facial and laundry soap, and small glass decanters of shower gel, shampoo and body lotion. All meals, soft drinks and alcoholic beverages were included, as were all daily game viewing activities and laundry service. A limited choice of vintage alcoholic beverages was available for an additional charge.

Facilities A dining area, lounge, bar and swimming pool.

Pool The free form swimming pool was eight meters (26 feet) by ten meters (32 feet) at its largest. It was surrounded by a broad deck overlooking the lagoon. Under yellow acacia trees, six wooden lounge chairs with brown and tan canvas cushions were separated by side were tables and ecru canvas market umbrellas.

Game Viewing Game drives, about three hours long each, took place in one of the camp’s open sided vehicles. Our ranger had a shotgun on the drives which were between 6:30 a.m. and 9:30 a.m. and 4 p.m. and 7 p.m. Although our vehicle had three tiered rows of seats that could have accommodated up to nine guests, there were never more than four with our guide and ranger on any drive or boat cruise. Cruises on the Shire River were in an open sided, canopied wooden motorboat. The boats departed slightly later than the game drive vehicles (staff cooked breakfast right on the boat).

Game I sighted included buffalo, bushbaby, bushbuck, African civet, crocodile, elephant, hippo, large spotted genet, impala, kudu, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, Melar’s and white tailed mongoose, sable and suni antelope, vervet monkey, warthog, waterbuck and yellow baboon.

Birds included white browed sparrow weaver, purple crested turaco, Swainson’s spurfowl, crowned hornbill, Hadeda ibis, Burchell’s coucal, African hoopoe, forked tailed drongo, cattle and great white egret, hammerkop, spurwing goose, black crake, malachite kingfisher, pied kingfisher, gray heron, goliath heron and black crowned night heron, African open billed stork, Curlew sandpiper, reed warbler, collared palm thrush, greenshank, jacana, reed cormorant, white-breasted cormorant, palm swift, black winged stilt, yellow wattle plover, water dikkop, robin chat, European bee eater, greater blue eared starling, Dickinson’s kestrel, red necked falcon, western banded snake eagle, African fish eagle, hawk eagle and harrier hawk, African goshawk and marsh harrier, martial eagle, palm nut vulture and African guinea fowl.

Activities In addition to morning and late afternoon game drives and boating safaris on the Shire River, and game and bird watching around the property, bush walks were available.

Other Mvuu Lodge was powered by a mix of diesel generator and solar panels. Electric lighting was available in my tent but there were no power outlets. Cameras, phones and computers batteries could be charged at a charging station in the bar area of the property.

Wilderness Safaris practiced a proactive policy of sustainable conservation through responsible tourism. To share the benefits of tourism with the local communities and ensure the preservation of the area’s natural resources for future generations, the company recruited, educated and put into place quality of life enhancement practices for the local community. Ninety-five percent of the staff was from local villages. Education programs were available to enable promotion from within whenever possible. Through trained staff advocates, Mvuu facilitated HIV testing for staff. Employees received mosquito nets for their homes as well their on site housing facilities. Additionally through the Children in the Wilderness Malawi program, Mvuu Lodge hosted 90 at risk children from the nearby Balaka District to yearly week long camps at the property where the children were taught an understanding of the practices and benefits of conservation, with follow up mentoring programs on going lessons throughout the year in local primary schools.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Visit October 2013

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service My tent was serviced twice daily. The members of the staff I met were friendly and efficient.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Located on the western side of Malawi’s Nankumba Peninsula, an area widely recognized as one of the most scenic around Southern Africa’s Lake Malawi, Pumulani was discretely tucked into a steep hillside. The only luxury property along the protected shores of the 9,400 hectare (36.30 square mile) Lake Malawi National Park and UNESCO World Heritage Center, Pumulani was designed by Dutch architect G. Hooft Graafland. In addition to a striking main lodge high on the hill and wide open to the endless lake vistas and the long aquamarine infinity pool below, he designed the property’s ten spacious rooms nestled into craggy granite outcrops around the hillside, each with a secluded private deck with lake views. Under their vegetal roofs of endemic grass meant to help offset their footprint and regulate their interior temperature, the rooms all but disappeared within their lush forest surroundings.

In addition to my superb accommodations, what I appreciated most was the friendly and flawlessly attentive personalized service of the Pumulani management and staff. I quickly noticed that things always seemed to happen at the very moment I thought of them. I arrived by road, after a slower than anticipated ride through bustling market towns, so it was well after lunchtime by the time I reached the property. As I was being escorted to my suite after a warm welcome from Alex Eigner, the lodge manager, as my stomach was about to remind me about lunch, a menu materialized, with the assurance that my choices would be ready when I was. When I returned to the lodge shortly thereafter, I found a table set on a crisp white tablecloth under a market umbrella on the terrace, facing the shimmering expanse of the lake. Lunch was just prepared chicken and wild mushrooms spring rolls on a bed of caramelized eggplant and a lovely, lightly dressed salad of field greens and sun ripened local tomatoes. Scrumptious. So was the traditional spongy caramelized Malva Pudding dessert with its warm custard sauce.

As I was leaving the terrace, another query: would I care for a sunset cruise on the dhow that day. It sailed at four o’clock. When I showed up at the beach I found two of the beach staff busily stacking bright pillows on the benches of the traditional handmade wooden ship, hoisting its iconic triangular sail and setting up a bar for sundowner cocktails and nibbles, for me alone. I couldn’t have wished for a more idyllic sunset, enjoying the rustling of the sail in the gentle breeze and the haunting call of African fish eagles along the shore. Later that night, as I was gazing at millions of pinpoint stars hanging in the black velvet sky, Alex just happened by to ask: “would you like to have a look in the telescope?” The telescope in question was a professional size affair mounted on a wooden platform, where one of the guides, an expert astronomer, walked me through the constellations and the planets.

At Pumulani, even the wildlife was service minded, such as the family of vervet monkeys that showed up at dawn each day in a tree over the deck of my room to wake me up in time to enjoy the sunrise. Then, I took the short walk from my front door to the pool where between laps I watched fishing boats return home after a night on the lake.

The property stood out for its five star trimmings such as sundowner dhow cruise, outstanding anticipatory service, gourmet food, state of the art features ranging from architecture to telescopes with the lake as the backdrop. With its unique brand of luxury hospitality and peerless surroundings, Pumulani offered me an unforgettable lakeshore experience that stood out for its topography, biology and still pristine state, one that I will yearn to repeat whenever travel plans take me anywhere in East or Southern Africa. As I recently heard myself explaining to friends pondering an African safari: “consider making Pumulani a mandatory detour. If you don’t, you may never know what you missed but I will be sorry for you that you did.”

Camp Managers Alex and Karien Eigner.

Children Pumulani welcomed children of all ages. A specially appointed family room was at the lowest part of the property, near the beach. Staff could be available with prior notice to organize supervised water and land activities for children.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury beach lodge.

Connectivity Pumulani was the only property I visited in Malawi that had working WiFi connections throughout the day (although at the erratic mercies of the local service provider). As I found it to be the case throughout the country, my GSM 3G/4G international cellular phone did not operate. However 2G communications were possible with a local GSM card.

Handicapped Access Motion impaired guests could be accommodated by prior arrangement on a case by case basis.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location On the western side of the Namkumba Peninsula, at the southern end of the lake, the edge of the Lake Malawi National Park, and a three hour drive east from Lilongwe.

Owned-Managed The property was part of the Robin Pope Safaris portfolio owned by Molecaten, a private Dutch family owned company. Cees Slager was chief executive officer of Molecaten. Ton de Rooy, a family member, was general manager for East Africa.

Size The property consisted of ten rooms that could accommodate a total of 26 guests. It employed a staff of 40 including four management personnel and five beach attendants, boatswains and guides. Vehicles included one transfer motor vehicle, one dhow, three sailboats, two motorboats and eight kayaks.

Year Open-Renovated Pumulani opened in July 2008, and had been the object of meticulous maintenance ever since, according to property representatives.

Lobby And Common Areas The lodge was furnished in an understated contemporary style with inviting groupings of similar rattan sofas and armchairs arranged about the covered space and open terrace of the bar. Coordinated high chairs were lined in front of a long bar topped with a slab of light polished wood. The dining area had rectangular natural wood tables, that could comfortably accommodate up to four guests, and matching ladderback chairs. The tables were lined along the terrace, generously spaced to ensure privacy while offering everyone a front row view of the lake. Tables could also be arranged in the sheltered area if desired. A few steps away from the lodge, a semicircular sandy terrace with a low fieldstone wall held a fire pit surrounded by bright coral canvas director chairs for evening cocktails or nightcaps under the stars.

A soaring two story foyer housing a spacious bar, lounge and dining areas in a lake facing enfilade, all offering sheltered and open sky options, was a striking decorative element in itself. The lodge had walls and ceilings of cream painted plaster and natural wood ceiling beams offset by dark flagstone tiled floors throughout. In the foyer, the focal point was an oversized tribal shield hanging above a semicircular writing desk with an intricate driftwood base and plate glass top, and a black high back desk chair in the center of the outer wall. Along the central wall that divided the foyer from the bar, two black woven rattan sofas with light gray cushions faced each other across a large coffee table.

Bathroom The vast bathroom (three meters by six meters or 9.7 feet by 20 feet) was to the right of the bedroom. It had an open corner double shower area tiled with Persian green mosaic. A deep claw footed bathtub of gleaming white porcelain stood on a low wooden platform in the center of the wall that separated the bathroom from the foyer. Next to it, a towel rack held white terrycloth bath and hand towels. On the opposite wall, two matching circular washbasins and a supply of washcloths and toiletries sat on the wooden top of a long masonry vanity. Two tall mirrors built into the wall and surrounded by green glass mosaic hung above the sinks. The lavatory was behind a full height partition at the far end of the room.

Suite My 130 square meter (1,400 square foot) suite, Number Two, was a wedge shaped retreat perched high on a hill, one level below the main lodge. The interior was divided by a wall into separate sleeping and living areas. The walls and ceilings were cream plaster with exposed ceiling beams and tan polished concrete floors. A long foyer included a pantry with a bar sink, under counter refrigerator, and a tea and coffee service. It opened into a sitting room and bedroom at the far end of the structure. Both rooms opened onto a large deck with a view of the bush and the lake. The two sitting room outer walls were a blend of floor to ceiling windows and sliding double doors that gave the space an inviting sunroom atmosphere. Furnishings included a long rolled arm sofa upholstered in mauve chintz with bright blue accent pillows, a rattan chest that doubled as a coffee table and two rattan slipper armchairs with matching cushions. A large butler’s tray held a generous assortment of reading materials on wilderness related topics.

The bedroom occupied the rear corner of the suite. Its far wall was a set of glass sliding doors with tan canvas draperies. A king size bed draped in a pristine mosquito netting canopy and a wide headboard that doubled as bedside table occupied the center of the back wall. A luggage rack on the left and low shelving unit on the right provided storage space. A semicircular polished wood shelf hung in the center of the opposite wall beneath a tall wood framed mirror. The shelf and a white bentwood desk chair doubled as a roomy writing area and dressing table. A rattan slipper armchair sat in the far corner of the room near the glass doors. Matching chair cushions and bed scarf in shades of pastel blue and green added a touch of color to the décor. In addition to a ceiling fan, the bedroom had a silent ceiling hung air conditioning unit. An arched doorway in the central wall led to the bathroom. Throughout the suite, lighting was provided by bleached driftwood floor lamps and wall sconces with gray linen shade. The deck ran the width of the suite. It was furnished with two blue and white director’s chairs and a small round coffee table under a market umbrella.

Food Chef Tapiwa Stepen Mamutse and his team served an imaginative variety of international cuisine prepared with fresh, organically grown produce, poultry, dairy and fish sourced from vetted local suppliers. A cold breakfast of freshly baked breads, yogurt, cut local fresh fruits, granola, assorted fruit juices, tea and coffee was served buffet style. There was also an extensive English breakfast menu. Lunch and dinner were a la carte, with lunch consisting of a choice of two main courses and dessert. The three course dinner also featured two main course choices. Special dietary requirements could be accommodated by prior arrangement.

Amenities In my room, the pantry had a tea and coffee service including an electric kettle, granulated coffee, an assortment of caffeinated and herbal teas and a jar of freshly baked cookies. Its refrigerator was stocked with an assortment of complimentary soft drinks, beer, cider and bottled water, and fresh milk. Room amenities included tissues, room and body insect repellent spray, emergency whistle, electronic safe, kikois (local thick cotton sarongs), thick terrycloth bathrobes and slippers, votive candles, insect repellent body cream, golf umbrellas and a basket convenient to carry personal items around the lodge.

Bathroom amenities included pump bottles of good quality eco friendly house brand shower gel, shampoo, body moisturizer and hand soap as well as a shower cap and a hairdryer.

Meals, soft drinks, house alcoholic beverages, and daily laundry service were included in the nightly rate. Local snorkeling, fishing, sailing, kayaking and related equipment, nature walks, mountain bike tours and village tours as well as sunset cruises on the traditional dhow were also complimentary. Vintage wines, connoisseur spirits, and motorized water sports such as diving, snorkeling excursions, waterskiing and tubing were available at additional cost.

Beach Raised walkways and stairs led down from every part of the property to a private golden sand beach surrounded by mature trees with hammocks gently swinging in the breeze. Wooden lounge chairs with bright canvas cushions under striped market umbrellas were arranged around the sand. At the rear of the beach under the trees, there was a beach bar on a low, shaded wooden deck. Light snacks and drinks were available there. In addition to the bartender, beach staff assisted with water sports equipment and handed out beach towels on demand.

Facilities A dining room, lounge and bar, beach and beach bar, gift shop and swimming pool.

Gift Shop A small gift shop was located off the lodge’s foyer. It carried a limited assortment of crafts and lodge branded safari accessories.

Pool The 15 meter (50 foot) long by five meter (16.5 foot) wide infinity pool was one flight of stairs below the main lodge, on a terraced deck with a dazzling view of the lake. It was surrounded by nine lounge chairs with dark gray canvas cushions, shaded with large canvas umbrellas. A long wooden bench with crimson and yellow striped pillows was set into the hill’s field stone retaining wall. At night, underwater illuminations turned the pool a dramatic sapphire blue that reflected the stars and the moon above.

Activities In addition to a wide array of water sports and breakfast or sunset cruises in the traditional dhow, the property offered guided walks and mountain bike rides from the lodge into the hills for birding or simply to enjoy the lake views. It was also possible to go on a guided visit to the nearby village. I particularly enjoyed dawn swims in the swimming pool. They were unlike anything I have experienced anywhere in Africa.

Other Electricity was available around the clock. The property was on the national electric grid and was equipped with a backup generator able to replace electricity from the grid within a few minutes in case of power failures. There were several outlets in my room, conveniently fitted with universal adapters to accommodate North American, European and South African plugs.

Pumulani was opened for guests from April through January. The water supply was from a bore hole tested on a regular basis and suitable for oral hygiene. The property recommended and provided bottled drinking water.

The property operated within high standards of responsible tourism practices, with staff recruited mainly from nearby villages on the lake. Staff members were trained on site with a focus that went beyond their specific functions to achieving an overall understanding of the lodge’s operation and an opportunity for professional advancement. Pumulani was recognized in 2011 and 2012 as Malawi’s Leading Hotel by World Travel Awards.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit October 2013

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service My suite was serviced twice daily. Every member of the staff with whom I came in contact was friendly and attentive.

Would You Return? Yes