The camp was luxury oriented without compromising its rustic nature. Nestled in a small low forested area surrounded by the great grassland plains of the North Mara Conservancy, the camp provided wonderful meals, engaging walks and drives, and comfortable tented lodging. Luxury upgrades, including en suite bathrooms with flushing toilets and hot water delivered to the tents, made the rustic experience comfortable.

Renowned for its plentiful diversity and the vast number of wild animals that stretch across the seemingly endless grassy plains, the Maasai Mara features a diverse and mostly intact ecosystem. The rhinoceros is the only animal classically associated with African safaris that is seldom evident in this part of the Mara. Resident animals and birds ignored safari vehicles and went about their lives, providing excellent viewing and photographic opportunities.

One of the great remaining wonders of the natural world is the famed wildebeest migration which takes place in the fall. Grazers like the wildebeest and zebra gather in the Mara in summer in numbers far too large to count. Later when autumn arrives, something compels them to converge together and move south with the rains, crossing the Mara River into the southern portion of the Maasai Mara Reserve, and then finally into the Serengeti in Tanzania by spring. We spent a remarkable full day watching the migration at the Maasai Mara Reserve, a highlight of our trip to Kenya.

Elephant Pepper was an excellent wildlife viewing camp, one that we would revisit repeatedly. It was the perfect combination of simple luxury set in a backdrop of classic Africa, right in the heart of what we went there to see, a true standout camp.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury tent camp

Connectivity There was WiFi available in the camp. We were not charged for the WiFi, a satellite-based connection which was slower than DSL but faster than dial up. Our cell phone connection showed voice and data available. We didn’t use either, but observed camp workers using cell phones for voice.

General Managers Patrick Dessy and Sophie Markides managed the camp together.

Handicapped Access Yes, they have accommodated physically challenged people in the past.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location The camp was within the protected 69,190 acre Mara North Conservancy in Kenya and next to the Maasai Mara, west of Nairobi. Elephant Pepper Camp could be reached by an hour and a half small aircarft flight from Nairobi followed by a twenty-minute ride in a vehicle from the air strip to the camp.

Managed Cheli & Peacock

Owned Liz and Stefano Cheli

Size There were nine tents including a honeymoon tent within the two hundred meter by seventy-five meter camp. The total area the camp leased from the Maasai landowners was 160 hectares for the camp grounds and an additional 300 hectares as a buffer zone. The camp employed twenty five casual staff, and five guides included two guides in training.

Year Opened And Date Of Most-Recent Renovation Elephant Pepper was initially a mobile safari camp as early as 1990. The last major renovation was in 2011.

The left tent formed a comfortable gathering area for guests to mingle and share stories. Several cushion-covered wooden love seats clustered around a long coffee table at one end, which often held mugs, hot water and tea. The other end of the same tent, had a sitting area comprised of canvas sling chairs and a few rustic leather and wood stools, easily rearranged to allow multiple small groups. A half-height wooden hutch cabinet housed stemware and assorted liquor drinks. Beaded necklaces worn by the local Maasai people hung on the walls of the tent adding a splash of exotic color and flavor. Two large skulls sat in the common yard, one of an elephant and the other a hippo.

The other tent was slightly larger, and featured a long dining table for family-style dining where all guests could gather, laugh and share stories while enjoying a warm meal. One side of this tent was open to a grassy veldt beyond the boundary of the camp. Out in the field was a small patch of trees visited regularly by elephants and other grazers. A staff member told us a natural mineral spring rose there, explaining frequent animal visits.

Just outside of the common area structures, a fire pit circled by chairs awaited any guest who wished to relax and take in the view of the grasslands. Under the shade at the forest edge, a chaise covered with a colorful Maasai cloth was placed to allow quiet lounging. This area was more private than the other common areas and looked like a perfect spot for visitors to lose themselves in a good book.

Camp staff delivered hot water in urns via a small access door near the sink. The sinks themselves didn’t have faucets with running water, but rather wash basins with drains. In spite of the lack of running water, we never ran short of hot or cold water for our needs.

Across the bathroom space there was a flushing toilet beside our bucket shower. A canvas flap separated the two. Upon request, the staff brought us hot water for showers. We usually used just one of the large buckets for two separate showers.

The double fly canvas tent was a roomy 25 by 13 feet positioned on a concrete base which extended out past the front entrance of the tent, forming a patio populated by two chairs and a table. A hammock hung between two trees close to the patio. Forest surrounded our tent on three sides, with the remaining side open to the same grassland view the common area showcased.

We liked the crisp white linens topped with a vivid red coverlet on the comfortable king-sized bed. A natural fiber carpet covered the entire floor of the sleeping area. Fabric rugs on each side of the bed kept our feet warm as we stepped up each morning. Small folding wooden tables flanked the bed, each topped with an electric lantern, a bottle of water and a glass. On the side of the sleeping room a bench provided space for our bags and belongings. There was also an open area for hanging clothes and a combination safe for valuables. We appreciated the electric lighting that made it possible for us to find things inside day or night.

The sleeping area of our tent had screened windows on all three sides that were open to the outdoors. These openings were easy to adjust with a canvas flap, and allowed us to decide how much air circulated. Thick trees filled the spaces between the tents, so we never felt a need to close the window flaps for privacy. When a violent thunderstorm passed over one afternoon we closed them all.

Although the nights were chilly, we left many of our window flaps open to hear the sounds of the African bush and the creatures of the night never disappointed us. Every night we fell asleep to the serenade of lions roaring and hyenas yipping.

Lunch was served at 1:15 p.m. after guests returned from their morning game drives. A buffet table parallel to the long dining table was completely covered with food choices such as several different types of pasta salads, green salads, avocado, sliced meats, homemade crackers, breads and fresh fruits. Camp staff served beverages and cleared the table as guests completed their meals. Since Elephant Pepper Camp had its own vegetable garden at meal times greens were fresh and beautiful.

Plated dinners were served at 8 p.m. As was the case for the buffet-style lunches, guests gathered for dinner at the long family-style table. The food was excellent, again featuring fresh greens to complement other parts of the meal. Homemade rolls and soups, meats in delicious marinades, potatoes and tasty deserts completed the menu. Water, hot beverages, sodas, beer and South African red and white wines were included with lunch and dinner.

For breakfast we sampled: egg, bacon, mushrooms, mixed fresh fruit with cantaloupe, fresh fruit (bananas, oranges, apples, watermelon, mango, passion fruit, tree tomato, pineapple), cinnamon rolls, homemade rolls, blueberry muffin, mango juice, yogurt, dried cereal, hot tea and coffee. For lunch the following were available during our visit: pasta, tomato and onion and avocado slices, homemade bread, sliced ham, garden salad, corn salad, macaroni and cheese, cold meats platter, Kenyan cheese board with homemade crackers.

For dinner we had fried cheese appetizer, tomato pasta, snap peas, leeks, baked onion, sweet potato, pork chop, panna cotta; garden salad, goat cheese appetizer, minestrone soup, beef, cauliflower, potatoes with onions, zucchini, homemade rolls; crostini with basil pesto, goat cheese with sun dried tomatoes, vegetable soup, spare ribs in balsamic and honey sauce, mashed potatoes, garden salad, and chocolate mousse.

Facilities Common area tents with reception, dining and shop cabinet.

Shop At one end of the dining tent, a pretty wooden curio cabinet in a corner was the gift shop of sorts at the camp, an ingenious idea for a camp with limited indoor space. There were camp branded polo and fleece shirts, a few books of local birds and other pertinent regional information, beaded jewelry, ball caps and even a couple of beaded animal sculptures, available for purchase.

The birds we saw: Hammer cop, hammer cop nest, Rosie breasted long claw female, yellow throated long claw, crested lark, swallows, Egyptian goose, ground plover, black headed weaver, black headed heron, lapid faced vultures, white stork, crowned crane, secretary bird, quail, paradise flycatcher, black bellied bustard, martin, red necked spur fowl, eagle owl, white brown cuckoo, lilac breasted roller, long tailed starling, malachite king fisher, pied king fisher.

On our first game drive on the afternoon we arrived at camp, we had only driven a short distance when we came on a large pride of lionesses lounging in the tall grass. One by one, with a big yawn and stretch, each lioness repositioned in the tall grass. This was our introduction to the Elephant Pepper Pride. We saw the pride several times, and heard them roar every night from our tent.

Our visit coincided with the great wildebeest migration. We spent a full day in the Maasai Mara Reserve, driving to the famous Mara River. We watched countless animals as they gathered together and started to cross as a single mass through the water of the river, but stopped just short of crossing and turned back. Watching these attempted crossings turned out to be a highlight of our trip.

The crossing seemed imminent many times. As hundreds of animals bunched up on shore, it appeared the pressure alone would have sent them splashing into the water. However, we learned it is the zebras decision where and when to cross. It is incredibly dangerous and many would die in the jaws of crocodiles. The zebras stomped and anguished over their decision.

The migration is driven by the need to follow the rains and continually move on to richer grazing. A big storm rolled in, and it rained hard on our side of the river. Because the rains came early in the North Mara Conservancy, the animals were slow to leave. We left the river without seeing a crossing but with a greater appreciation of how tough life is for wild creatures when life-and-death decisions like this one must be made.

For the rest of our stay at the camp, we focused on many more game drives, each with spectacular viewing. A small gorge in the North Mara Conservancy provided endless wildlife watching. Our guide was outstanding, having an innate sense of what the animals were going to do before they did it. A huge group of close to one hundred hyenas called this small gorge home. A beautiful female leopard showed off for us in a tree there, giving us unparalleled photographic opportunities. Lions visited the gorge, and many birds lived there too, including a nesting pair of hammer-cops and Egyptian geese. Not far from the gorge, black-backed jackals had a den, and we enjoyed watching the antics of their little ones. Topi, eland, more wildebeest, zebras, elephants, wart hogs, reed buck, cheetah, impala, Grant’s gazelle, Thompson’s gazelle, Maasai giraffe, and lions revealed their secrets to us as we traveled throughout that reserve.

We rode on Toyota Land Cruisers adapted into safari vehicles with capacity for six passengers although during our visit there was a maximum of four guests per game drive. The vehicles had a top, and were open on two sides. Our safari vehicle was in good condition and was comfortable. These vehicles had a small table top bench rest for cameras which we appreciated. There were power inverters on the safari vehicles for charging camera batteries. The inverter on our vehicle was temporarily out of operation, so we used an inverter we had brought on the trip.

It rained on one of our game drives. The staff provided us rain gear and lowered the rain flaps on the vehicle. The game drive continued through the rain.

Stanley Kipkoske Too, who had 27 years of experience, was our primary driver and guide. A new guide, Boniface, was with us as well, and Robert was our Maasai guard on the drive to the Mara River. Our guides were knowledgeable, competent and friendly. The only staff person who was ever armed, to our knowledge, was Robert who had a large knife. The staff provided safety instructions and explained what we were seeing.

Game drives were at 6:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and 4:30 p.m. to 7 p.m. On the day that we traveled to the Mara River our game drive started at 6:30 a.m. and ended at 7 p.m. Our game drives varied in duration. They ranged from two and a half hours, five hours and twelve and a half hours.

On every morning game drive, we were served breakfast. On the day-long game drive to the river, we were served breakfast and lunch. Drinks and snacks were served on game drives. These meals, drinks and snacks were complimentary.

During the day, we were allowed to walk from our rooms to the common areas and at night we were provided an escort. We never had to wait long for an escort. We were also provided flash lights and a radio that could be used in emergencies.

The camp had solar-powered electricity 24 hours a day for room lighting and the safari vehicles had VAC outlets for charging. There was no charging station in our room. At night, we gave our camera batteries and chargers to the camp staff, and they returned them the next morning fully charged. We didn’t hear any noises from the solar powered electric power system.

Water was trucked in from a local spring every couple of days. The camp provided complimentary bottled water for drinking and brushing teeth. They did not recommend drinking bath or sink water.

Elephant Pepper Camp had received a 2011 to 2012 Gold Eco-rating Certification from Ecotourism Kenya. According to promotional materials only five camps in Kenya had achieved such a rating. The Mara North Conservancy received the the 2011 Eco Warrior Award for Conservancy of The Year from Ecotourism Kenya.

In the past, the camp has supported local efforts like installing rainwater harvesting at the Ololomei Primary School, and delivering water from the Aitong Spring during times of drought, funding classrooms and school cafeterias. The property also supported predator proof fencing for livestock and a livestock reimbursement program for livestock taken by wild predators.

Cheli and Peacock facilitated an award to the Bright Green initiative designed to improve education, establish wildlife eco-clubs, internet training, conservation awareness, waste management programs, renovation of classrooms, rainwater harvesting, and classroom and dormitory improvements.

More than 80 percent of camp staff were hired from local communities. The camp was 100 percent powered by a green solar-energy system. The staff practiced sustainable gardening practices with their own camp plot that provided fresh vegetables for meals.

The Elephant Pepper Camp has worked with the local Maasai community for over 20 years. Cheli and Peacock was instrumental in founding the Mara North Conservancy (MNC). The MNC with 12 member camps has negotiated with over 800 landowners for new land leases. Eighty percent of the revenues go to leases and the remaining to ranger salaries, vehicle surveillance, and infrastructure maintenance. These leases were designed to guarantee that the land is used for wildlife conservation rather than alternative agriculture in return for a stable and transparent source of revenue for the land owners.

Date Of Last Visit September 2012

Reviewers Article and Photographs by Chester Godsy and Joni Johnson-Godsy

Service Our room was serviced three to four times per day. Service was excellent. We interacted with Patrick and Sophie in the camp, and Stanley and Robert on the game drives.

Staff brought hot water twice per day for the sink in the morning as part of our wake-up call, and in the afternoon after we returned from a walk or game drive. They provided fresh water as often as requested for the shower.

Staff tidied up each time we were away for drives and kept the tent spotless.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Set within the scenic Shaba National Reserve, Joy’s Camp delivered dramatic views and generous wildlife sightings. Shaba means “bronze in color,” a fitting description of the mountains and rocky escarpments that surround the large, rolling grassy plains of the camp. Animals visited a small knoll filled with trees close to the camp for water from a natural spring.

On arriving at Joy’s Camp, Jules Binks, a gracious hostess acting as relief camp manager, greeted us with warm moist towels for our hands and a cold glass of fruit juice to cool our dry throats. After taking a short tour of the camp, we ended at our tent, where our bags were already waiting. The camp, conveniently laid out with a main gathering place in the center of two tented areas that extended outward from one another, was easy to navigate and pleasantly decorated.

Electric wire fencing surrounded the camp area, keeping some of the larger animals at bay; wildlife abounded within the camp. Small animals like dik-dik, squirrels and many birds found refuge there. A birdbath near the eating area attracted dozens of tame and relaxed birds, presenting wonderful photography opportunities. A few walking trails inside the wire fenced area provided places for us to stroll around the camp safely during the day. Several species of ground fowl and many species of birds chattered and darted about in the trees along these walking paths.

We enjoyed the game viewing, pretty and comfortable tented accommodations and meals at Joy’s Camp. The camp’s location within a national reserve and access to the nearby Samburu National Reserve made it a good game viewing venue.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury tents with permanent platforms.

Connectivity The wireless Internet access was a satellite-based connection slower than DSL but faster than dial-up. Cell phone and data service coverage were available.

General Manager Jules Binks was the acting manager during our stay. Francien Van de Vijver and Willem Dolleman were the permanent managers of the camp.

Handicapped Access Yes, they were able to welcome handicapped guests if planned.

Length Of Stay Three nights.

Managed Cheli & Peacock

Owned Liz and Stefano Cheli

Size The ten tent property boundaries were inside ten acres of electric fencing within the fifty nine thousand acre Shaba National Reserve. There were thirty two staff, three rangers, and three guides.

Year Opened And Date Of Most Recent Renovation Opened August 2006. There had been no full renovation during the time since, but regular maintenance and upkeep kept the camp looking new.

A short walk from the reception area revealed two buildings positioned together, with an open walkway between them. The covered dining area was on the left, supported by solid walls on two sides and uncovered on the remaining sides to the grassland that stretched out in front of a natural spring. A common gathering area where guests could relax with a cold drink from the bar and take in the view occupied the right hand side.

The dining area, like the reception building and gift shop, had a canvas roof that rose to a point in the middle. A large concrete slab formed the floor with a step down to a little garden. A flurry of brightly-colored birds at the birdbath entertained visitors during the day.

The gathering area mirrored the same design with open sides and canvas roof. The light airy white furniture cushions topped with bright gold and purple pillows evoked the exotic feel of India.

The bathroom occupied the front of the tent, an atypical design. Canvas windows easily closed for privacy. A shower filled one end of the bathroom, just beyond a crinkled glass divider. The large rain shower provided seemingly limitless hot water for a refreshing shower. An unusual feature of this shower was an arced window looking into the sleeping area. The window permitted enjoying the view while showering. Vertical strands of colorful beads covered this window, refracting the sunlight as it cascaded through the tent. Next to the shower was a flushing toilet. Tiny lights inset into a stucco wall behind the toilet lit it up for an effective “night light.”

The water pressure for the shower was good. Our tent had a dedicated solar hot-water tank heater. We enjoyed a satisfactory supply of hot water for our sink faucets and showers. The solar heated water was hottest in the afternoon or early evening.

Our tent sat beneath a few large trees in the front, with the back facing the open grassland dotted with a few small brush trees. An old elephant skull which leaned against one of the tall trees greeted us as we approached our accommodations.

The tent itself was 24 feet by 26 feet, composed of canvas walls and roof, supported by a concrete slab base that extended past the canvas creating a cozy covered front and back porch. A few small palms added grace to the area huddled beside a short gravel pathway which led to the front door of our tent.

The colorful style found throughout camp was obvious before we even entered our tent. Arched windows in the canvas let light into the front. Alongside the front window was a large wooden door which led into an entry area just within the tent. From the first time we stepped into our tent, we loved the exotic colors and design.

The door opened into a small entry area with the comfortable king-sized bed located just around a corner. Dressed in crisp whites with accent colors of bright purple, gold, cobalt blue, and green silk, the bed faced the back of the tent, overlooking the open grassland beyond. A large bleached solid stucco wall formed a headboard, and divided the bathroom and sleeping areas. A massive white and cobalt canopy stretched over the bed cascading at the corners. Tiebacks held mosquito netting neatly back during the day.

Decoratively dyed concrete floors softened in key locations with woven rugs made the floor easy on the feet. Raised luggage storage to one side of the bed included open shelves and hanging space for clothing. We found this storage well placed and ample. A sizable cedar trunk sat at the base of the bed, providing more surface space for visitor storage. In the corner of the large sleeping space, a small double shelf housed a security safe and outlets for the charging station. A wooden desk and chair were on the opposite wall with an elegant modern light to brighten the corner.

Beautiful electric lanterns hung from scrolled iron hangers, one on each side of the bed. Small glass tiles set within the concrete floor lit up the room at the flip of a switch providing a generous amount of surrounding light. The main switch for the lights hung on a rope outside the front door. When we returned to our tent each evening, we simply turned on the lights before entering the tent. An array of tiny openings decoratively positioned within the interior stucco wall housed small lights, which shone through a crinkled glass. The lighting in this tent was inventive, dramatic and effective.

A zippered opening at the back of the tent led out onto a concrete patio with comfortable chairs for guests to enjoy a classic view of the Shaba Reserve savannah. Mountains formed a dramatic backdrop in the far distance between the short trees of the bush. Occasionally, giraffes and elephants drifted by in the distance, taking advantage of the natural spring. The nearby trees bustled with bird activity during the day. The nights were cool, dark and quiet, ideal for a restful night’s sleep.

Joy’s Camp served fresh salads, tasty pastas and South African wines. The staff tended a camp garden to supply fresh vegetables to the kitchen. Considering the remote location, the emphasis on freshness and quality ingredients made us take notice.

Meals at Joy’s Camp were served at the folowing times: breakfast 6:30 a.m. to 9:30 a.m., lunch 1 p.m. to 2:30 p.m., afternoon tea at 4 p.m. and dinner 8 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.

We sat at our own table for meals except for one evening when we had a group dinner with camp staff and another couple. Lunch and breakfast were buffets, with drinks and hot dishes served by waiters. Dinner was served by waiters. Beer, house wines, coffee, tea and liquor were included with the accommodations. Premium drinks could be purchased for an additional fee.

Some of the menus we experienced were: for sundowner, beverages and chips; for breakfast, two types of cereal, milk, yogurt, fresh fruit (bananas, pineapple, watermelon, tree tomato, papa fruit, passion fruit), scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, toast, fresh juice, omelet with onion, green pepper, cheese, and tomato. During a mobile breakfast on a game drive we had bacon, lettuce, tomato and flat bread sandwich, passion fruit, tree tomato, banana, pineapple, watermelon, sausage, eggs made to order, fresh juice, tea and coffee.

Lunch: One day there was mixed bean salad, fresh lettuce salad, fresh fruit salad with watermelon, mango, and cantaloupe, pasta salad, banana, cracker bread and cheese, and sautéed mushrooms. Another day there was tomato pasta, homemade rolls, filet steak and mushrooms, fresh garden salad, beats with orange and grapefruit, fresh lettuce salad, and lemon meringue pie.

Dinner: One night there were asparagus, sliced carrots, homemade rolls, baked chicken, baked potatoes, green beans, and apple pie. A second night we had homemade rolls, leek soup, baby corn, green beans, mash potatoes, steak filet, and caramelized custard. On another night there were homemade rolls, tomato pasta, pork chops, potatoes, carrots, green beans, cake and ice cream.

Facilities Reception and dining tents with a shop and a pool.

Pool Around the corner from the common areas, a 6-foot deep, 40-foot by 15-foot pool sat next to a covered concrete pad. Six wooden lawn recliners topped with bright blue and white cushions provided seating. The pool area felt cozy and private thanks to a stone wall and the tree line that surrounded it on two sides. Large potted palms, gently rustling in the soft breeze, dotted the covered patio. On the other side, two cushioned recliners faced the open bush.

Shop A gift shop near the reception tent revealed the first hint of the camp’s architecture. Inside the little shop, we found beaded jewelry, a small collection of Christmas ornaments, polo and T-shirts with the Joy’s Camp logo on them, suede handbags, baseball caps, assorted colorful scarves, stylish hats, beaded table wear, and the shampoo and body products featured at the camp among other items. On request, camp staff aided guests with questions and purchases in the unattended shop.

Birds we saw during our stay: Superb starling, white headed buffalo weaver, lilac breasted roller, yellow necked franklin bird, black faced sand grouse, black capped social weaver, go-away-bird, yellow necked spur fowl, eastern yellow billed horn bill, spar wing lap wing, sacred ibis, helmeted guinea fowl, Egyptian goose, greater painted snip, black crake, hammer cop, cattle egret, squacco heron, crested franklin, fisher starling, puff crested buster, Von der Decken’s hornbill, fan tail raven, goshawk, Somali ostrich, white crowned lapwing, black faced sand grouse, Verreaux’s eagle-owl, marshal eagle, vulturine guinea fowl, secretary bird, bateleur eagle, little bee eater, grey headed king fisher, marabou stork, tawny eagle, golden breasted starling, kori bustard.

We also saw naked mole rat dens and termite mounds.

Shaba struck us as an unusually scenic reserve. Surrounded by mountains on all sides, the savannah, between undulating slightly rolling hills, was lit up by a desert-like sun. The park featured the animal species we expected to see on an African safari, except for the rhinoceros. There were elephants, buffalo, impala, Grant’s gazelle and many bird species. Two special species occupied this park, found only north of the equator in Africa, Grevy’s zebra and reticulated giraffe.

The roads in Shaba were sandy and at times dusty. We covered our cameras with clothes that we brought along. We found some of the animals of Shaba like the elephants to be shy. Unlike busier reserves, the wildlife in this reserve found vehicles alarming and would often leave quickly on our arrival.

Our guide took us to a natural spring where animals and birds gathered in great numbers. An enormous herd of buffalo was on the other side of the vivid blue water pools bunched together and facing us like a wall of menacing horns. The water pools teemed with wading birds of different species. When we left the little spring, the sun had nearly set, and it was time to head back to camp.

The next morning we arose early to visit a beautiful area of Shaba where huge rock formations cascaded down to the Ewasonyro River. Ewasonyro means brown. These massive rocks felt like rough sandpaper to the touch. Our guide took us walking across these rocks which were steep in areas. Both of us wore good quality hiking shoes. Fortunately, neither of us fear heights, as this hike took us along precarious places. The river meandered beneath us as we walked along its banks. Towering palm trees grew, scattered on a beach of sorts, by the river. When we arrived at the sandy river edge, breakfast was waiting for us, with our vehicle.

We ate an elegant breakfast prepared for us right on the river’s edge. Fresh fruits, cereals and eggs cooked to order served as we sat at the riverside at a table set with all the trimmings. The hike had given us both a good appetite and we enjoyed the bush breakfast.

Later the same day we set out on a game drive around the Shaba Reserve. Shaba didn’t disappoint, revealing all kinds of wildlife. The Grevy zebras put on the best show, allowing us to drive right in the middle of a herd and enjoy their antics.

Other sightings in Shaba included a secretary bird, cory bustard, reticulated giraffes, many impala, Grant’s gazelles, several species of horn bills, dik-dik, and a personal favorite, a herd of lovely oryx. Because some of the animals of Shaba were shy needing a distance from our vehicle to be comfortable, photography was a challenge.

On our last full day at Joy’s Camp, we drove through Shaba Reserve to the famed Samburu National Reserve. A tiny Samburu tribal village separated the two.

Immediately after passing through the gate into the park we noticed the Samburu Reserve was teeming with wildlife. In contrast to Shaba, the wildlife appeared relaxed around our vehicle. Photographic opportunities abounded in this park.

We passed a troop of baboons and a large group of vulturine guinea fowl almost inside the park boundaries. A stunning amaga lizard with his mate and baby were sunning on a stone wall together. A pride of female lions slept nearby enjoying the shade of a large tree. Wart hogs, giraffe, countless birds, waterbuck, impala, Grant’s gazelle were actively grazing, romping or resting in the park. An enormous herd of oryx drifted gracefully along in an open veldt. We spent some time sitting and watching them, eventually they drifted close to our vehicle. One lone male bushbuck stood mixed into the large herd, standing out like a beacon. The oryx didn’t mind his presence.

Further along on our drive, our guide took us to a river’s edge for lunch. Elephants swayed back and forth in the cool shade of a few large trees at the river’s edge. A tiny baby nestled between the massive front tree-trunk legs of his mother, acting as baby animals often do in a charming display of antics. Grevy’s zebras, impala, Grant’s gazelle, giraffe, gerenuk, wart hogs and countless other animal species gathered there, peacefully sharing space and grazing in a “classic” African scene.

Across the river, a large herd of elephants strolled in as we enjoyed our lunch. The herd drank and played in the water. In trees in front of us on our side of the river, a little bee-eater entertained us with aerial acrobatics. A gray-headed kingfisher perched on a nearby branch awaiting an opportunity for dinner to swim by while crocodiles waited patiently on the river’s edge below, and a marabou stork landed on a sandbar also hoping to earn lunch.

As we ambled back towards camp, we discovered many other species. The Samburu Reserve was a highlight of our visit to Joy’s Camp. Our visit to the park reminded us of a wildlife lover’s dream.

Joy’s Camp had four safari vehicles and one pickup truck for transport. Our game drives were in Toyota land cruisers with open sides and a covered top. Our well kept vehicle had a capacity of six people and two guides.

On our first game drive, we had two staff, including a driver and guide named Eric Lemalo and a helper named Nemrod. Eric remained our guide (and sometimes driver) during our stay at the property. He had three years of experience with Cheli & Peacock and two years of experience as a guide. Eric and two armed park rangers, one of them named Ibrahim, escorted us on our bush walk. Our guides were knowledgeable, competent and friendly. Our guides provided safety instructions and explained what we were seeing during our game drives. They offered us water, sodas, juices, beer or wine and potato chips and other snacks while on game drives.

We went on game drives during the following times 6:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m., 4:30 p.m. to 7 p.m.

and 6:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Normally game drives in Shaba started at 6:30 am and 4:30 pm. The trip to Samburu started at 6:30 am and including the return drive to the camp continued until 7 p.m.

There was 240 volts AC 50-cycle power available in the room between 7 a.m. and 10 a.m., and between 7 p.m. and 10 p.m. We could not hear the generator running during our stay. The charging station in our room provided 240 volts AC power in our room with various plugs. We used the charging station to charge our camera and computer batteries.

Each room had its own solar panel which produced electricity and stored it to power electric lighting in the room night and day.

The sink, shower and toilet water were from a shallow well sourced from a nearby local spring. All drinking water, in our rooms and at meals, was complimentary bottled mineral water. The staff drank the well water, but advised guests against drinking it.

The property was a 2011 and 2012 Finalist for Best Safari Property in East Africa from The Good Safari Guide. Joy’s Camp was recipient of the Silver Eco-rating Certification from the Kenya government in 2010 and 2011.

In 2011, Cheli & Peacock partnered with the Northern Rangelands Trust (NRT) and their new initiative, the Nakuprat-Gotu Wildlife Conservancy.

Date Of Last Visit September 2012.

Reviewers Article and Photographs by Chester Godsy and Joni Johnson-Godsy

Service The service was excellent. Our room was serviced three times per day. Jules Binks always checked in with us when we returned from game drives or from our tent to make sure everything was going smoothly. When we visited the common areas, a senior guide named George originally from Zimbabwe provided information about the local wildlife.

In the mornings, someone walked by at our tent to wake us up. Staff escorted us at night for safety. During day light hours we could walk unescorted.

Would You Stay Again? Yes.

The drive from the airstrip to the camp took a long four hours, some of it on rough four-wheel drive roads. This drive gave us a chance to enjoy the Kenyan countryside and provided us our first glimpse of the Samburu culture as we rolled along. We passed tiny Samburu villages dotted amid the interesting scenery. Tribal men tended their livestock along the roadside. We stopped in the minute village of Wamba to buy gasoline for our vehicle and the camp.

The remote camp, nestled in the heavily forested Mathews Mountain Range, was clean and inviting. Smoothly finished concrete platforms provided the base for common areas and guest tents. The furnishings had rough hewn edges by design, lending a rustic, traditional African feeling to the property.

Kitich means “happiness” in Samburu and suited our experience at the camp. Because the camp sits at an elevation of 5500 feet nights and mornings were cool enough to require wearing sweaters or a jacket although during the heat of the day the temperatures were still comfortable. Seemingly, the altitude and placement of the camp meant minimal insect presence.

The staff members at Kitich Camp were attentive, thoughtful and detail oriented. For example, after a hike one day, we returned to our tent to find a red feather on our bed. Our walk had featured this bird species just before our return to camp.

Fresh food with an emphasis on lighter fare during the day kept us ready for the walking safari experiences that are the specialty of the camp. Nearly untouched by civilization, the terrain was too rough for game drives other than the main roads, but foot trails covered the area.

After a long walk, a hot bucket shower refreshed us to prepare for dinner with full table service, which was longer and more relaxed than lunch. A night’s sleep to the sounds of the bush prepared us for the next day.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury oriented tented camp

Connectivity The camp office had a free wireless Internet connection available for guests. The satellite-based connection allowed moderate connection speeds, slower than DSL and faster than dial-up. Cell phones could not find a signal.

General Manager Jamie Cocker was the acting manager during our stay. Patrick and Meriem Simkin were the full time managers.

Handicapped Access Yes. They have accommodated disabled people in the past. However, walking trails were not physical disabilities friendly. This camp’s focus was on walking safari experiences.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location In the Mathews Mountain Range in Kenya, Kitich Camp is over two hundred miles north and east of Nairobi. It took us just over an hour’s flight from Nairobi followed by a four-hour drive to reach the camp.

Managed Cheli & Peacock

Owned Liz and Stefano Cheli

Size The camp occupied 25 square kilometers within the 800,000 acre Namunyak Conservancy. There were six tents as well as 17 staff and two guides.

Year Opened-Renovated Founded in the 1970s, the camp reopened in 2009 and renovated in 2010.

The main reception served as a general purpose gathering and relaxation common area for the camp. A small collection of books occupied the shelves and a bar supplied refreshment. Centrally located in the room, a sitting area anchored the space. With four chairs and two loveseats, most of the camp guests could share their daily adventures while enjoying a drink before dinner. A long table at one side of the room provided communal dining space. On the wall by the dining table hung six stunning professionally taken black and white photographs of different Samburu guides wearing their tribal costumes. The wall contained the trunk of a tree, adding natural texture to the setting.

A vibrant rug of magentas, blues and tans splashed the main tent with color. Several other woven rugs dotted the floor. A tablecloth in the traditional red plaid worn by the Maasai people covered a long table used to serve coffee, tea and snacks.

Built of white stucco and timber beams, the vaulted ceiling of the common gathering area lent architectural interest to the building. Gnarled wooden branches formed an archway for the staff members to enter from the service area.

Our standard tent measured 15 feet by 40 feet (600 square feet). Zippered openings formed the front entrance and the connection to the bathroom area. A large smooth concrete slab supported the entire tent and a roomy patio in front of the tent. The sleeping area had canvas walls, ceiling and floor. Vibrant ethnic rugs graced the floors, providing a surface to step onto in the chill of the morning.

Cotton linens with a cozy cotton duvet cover in a bright pastel plaid covered our comfortable king-sized bed. Each of us had two foam pillows. The soft and inviting bedding kept us warm during the chilly mountain nights. The headboard contained two lights, one for each person, with easy to find on-off switches. The staff left bottled water on the headboard at turndown.

The tented portion of our room featured screened windows on all sides, so we could open or close the solid flaps depending on the temperature at night and not have to worry about mosquitoes. We left some of them uncovered to enjoy the sounds of Africa at night. Roaring lions, yipping hyenas and on one exciting night, two buffalo fighting a duel provided late night entertainment in the bush.

Battery powered LED lighting recharged by solar power lit our room. Electric lighting was available twenty-four hours per day in our room.

A beautiful glass bowl sink was recessed into a wooden counter beside the clothing cupboard. A small door to the outside positioned just above the counter allowed camp workers to bring hot water to us for washing, without ever entering the tent. The morning wake up call each day included a bucket of heated water to wash up before heading out.

Items placed into a large basket of classic African design sitting below the counter would return laundered the following day. Out of respect for the all male staff and their local culture, laundry service excluded women’s undergarments. Visitors could hand wash these items with the laundry soap supplied by the camp.

Hot water limits meant bucket showers and no bathtubs. An inlaid stone floor in the concrete pad formed the shower which had no enclosure. Walls around the bathroom kept the space private; visitors taller than five foot five could easily see out. A wooden plank roof covered the entire bathroom area. On request, the staff brought a large bucket of hot water and placed it above the shower enclosure with a pipe feeding the showerhead mounted on a gnarled branch. We never needed a full bucket to take a refreshing shower. We found the water temperature suited for our needs.

The private area opposite the wall contained a pit toilet with a seat and a lid. The staff used lime each day to control the odor throughout our visit.

Meal times floated based on walks and game drives, but breakfast was typically at 7 a.m., lunch between 1 and 3 in the afternoon, and dinner between 7 p.m. and 8 p.m. Complimentary drinks included wine and beer and some liquor, with a surcharge for premium brands. Meals were served in the main reception area with a bar, a dining table, lounge seating and a wooden deck with an overlook. We ate at the large table in this location with other guests. Lunch and breakfast consisted of a small buffet and drinks served by the staff. For breakfast, we were able to order a hot plate of eggs, bacon, sausage and toast. Staff served dinners at the table.

Some of the items on offer while we were there were: for afternoon tea, hot beverages and chocolate cake with white icing; as sundowners there were beverages and snacks; for breakfast: fresh fruit (bananas, passion fruit, pineapple, papaya, cantaloupe), yogurt, three different dried cereals, milk, fresh passion juice, scrambled eggs on toast, sausage, bacon, and baked tomato. For lunch there was an excellent tomato pasta, vegetable quiche, fresh garden salad from the camp’s own garden, tuna and anchovy salad, homemade bread, and fresh passion juice. At dinner we sampled pork chops, rhubarb fruit desert, steamed broccoli, rice, and steamed snap peas. For our first dinner, we enjoyed a frozen desert called Bonifee Pie (there was a solar freezer). Another night, there was cream of vegetable soup with homemade rolls, baked chicken, cubed baked potatoes with gravy, steamed cauliflower and broccoli, and chocolate mousse for dessert. Water, wine, beer tea and coffee were on offer at meals and sundowners.

Facilities Reception and dining tents.

The birds we saw: Egyptian goose, fish eagle, paradise flycatcher (white phased), grey-headed bushshrike, white-browed robin-chat, superb starling, and cinnamon chested beat eater.

We heard male lions roaring two out of three nights, and hyenas yipping and giggling every night.

We took part in three bush walks through the forest. We found three separate groups of elephants on our first walk and thanks to the bush skills of our four Samburu guides we tracked these elephants on foot and approached close to them. Our guides taught us about wind direction and elephant habits, heightening our experience. The thick brush obscured our view of these huge creatures, but we caught glimpses of them and heard cracking tree branches nearby. Although the forest elephants in this region shy away from humans we managed to approach within a hundred yards of them.

The next morning, three guides led us up a trail on the side of the mountain. The occasionally challenging trail led to a rocky escarpment at the top. One guide led the group, carrying a rifle and keeping an eye out for any aggressive creatures occupying the trail ahead of us. Another guide walked at the back, carrying bottled water. The trail challenged us at times. The guides kept a constant vigil for our comfort, inviting us to rest periodically. Thick, dry brush gave way to tall forest trees, towering over our heads, creating a dark canopy from above.

Large butterflies floated on the wind under the canopy like bubbles blown through a wand, creating iridescent spots of vibrant color on the breeze. We saw ancient cycad plants, alive since the age of the dinosaurs, in the Mathews Mountain Range. At the top of the mountain, a rocky escarpment awaited us. The view from the lookout point made the climb worth every minute. Bringing along our hiking shoes proved fortunate to experience this journey in the remote Kenyan mountains.

The trail on our third walk involved less physical effort. The path meandered between tall forest trees, open glades and short brush. We took in the beautiful sights and sounds of the African forest and examined scat and tracks of leopard, hyena, porcupine and even honey badger.

Our guides explained that signs of rain coming soon were visible all around. The tracks of army ants, seemingly with no beginning or end, meandered back and forth across the trail; their movement signaling preparation for the coming water. The bright magenta of the fire ball lilly in bloom also presaged the coming rainy season. Fortunately the cobalt blue skies remained clear and we enjoyed sunshine.

The trail ended at a beautiful pool of water surrounded by huge, smooth boulders and forest. We took a welcome break and removed our shoes for a foot-soak in the crisp water. The trail looped around and we slowly headed back to camp, taking in the wonders of the forest around us.

We took part in one short game drive, ending in a sundowner. The comfortable four-wheel drive Toyota had openings in the sides and roof to allow less hindered game viewing. The well-preserved truck had a capacity of six, although we were alone on our drive.

The following individuals escorted us on our game drive, bush walks, and cultural visits: Jamie Cocker, a translator named Lamario, a warrior named Taustan, an elder named Lasamano, and a senior elder named Thomas Lolokuri, our tracker and guide.

Samburu men become warriors when they come of age. They retire from the warrior positions on reaching their early to mid-thirties and become elders. The Samburu had a quiet, patient and gentle nature. Ou escorts and guides were knowledgeable, competent and friendly, with typical guide experience of five to ten years. Thomas carried a rifle, Tautson and Lamario each carried a spear. The staff was helpful and explained what we saw during our activities.

Before each activity, the guides gave us safety instructions. Drives and bush walks occurred during early mornings and late afternoons. Our first walk was five hours long. Our game drive was forty five minutes of driving, but lasted two and a half hours with a sun downer stop. During activities, the guides offered us water, wine, sodas, beer, juices, and snack food including a local variety of chips and peanuts.

The camp had a well that supplied water and bottled water for drinking. Staff supplied us with bottled water for personal needs in the tent and advised against drinking or brushing teeth with the local well water.

Winner of the 2011/12 Silver Eco-rating Certification from Ecotourism Kenya Kitich Camp was created to conserve and protect the Mathews Mountain Range, an area outside the Kenyan safari tourist circuit. At the time of our visit, the Samburu and Ndorobo tribes received direct income from the camp. Through this relationship with the camp and the conservancy the local communities were meant to benefit and become materially involved in the success of the camp and related conservation efforts.

The Namunyak Conservancy, formed in 1995, covers 800,000 acres and includes thirteen trustees with a mandate to preserve wildlife and the ecosystem with a network of rangers, by resolving grazing conflicts, and through community development. Kitich Camp provided financial support and active participation in the Namanyak Conservancy.

Kitich Camp hired 100 percent of its casual staff and 90 percent of its permanent staff from the regional village of Ngilai. Located in an area of few career opportunities, jobs at Kitich Camp were highly sought after by the local people, we were told. Conservancy funds from Kitich have funded 188 secondary school and 30 university bursaries, along with assistance for 20 emergency hospital payments, one school matron’s salary for a year, 48 desks, 13 tables, and 10 chairs made by a regional carpenter.

We got the impression that Kitich Camp helped the local Samburu people understand the value of living in harmony with the wild animals around them. Kitich Camp was set up to help the local people benefit from the success of the conservation efforts in the region by providing employment and the opportunity to participate in the resulting revenue.

The camp was 100 percent powered by a green solar-energy system. The Kitich garden, which provided fresh vegetables for meals, followed sustainable practices.

Date Of Visit September 2012

Reviewers Article and Photographs by Chester Godsy and Joni Johnson-Godsy

Service Excellent. When we left the room for activities and meals, staff would tidy up and service the room. Twice a day, staff brought fresh hot water for the sink and they brought fresh shower water on request.

Lamario and Jamie spoke the best English and interacted with us during our stay. Lamario’s father sent him away to be educated when he was young and he returned to the Samburu after completing his education.

As usual in tented camps, night guard escorts took us between the common areas and our tent after dark. We never waited long when ready to go back and forth.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Within the gated world of the Serena, the atmosphere had the sophisticated elegance and attentive hospitality of luxury hotels worldwide, coupled with a unique décor that blended Moroccan and Swahili influences with tribal antiques and contemporary African art. While the property was unmistakably urban, and its several lounges and restaurants seemed to be favorite meeting spots for the local political elite as well as the cosmopolitan business community, it seemed equally welcoming to tourists. I had felt a brief pang of self-consciousness, walking into the smart lobby in hiking boots still dull with the dust of the Masai Mara game reserve I had left only a few hours before; until the bellman who took charge of my well-travelled duffle bag casually inquired how I had enjoyed my safari. The polished Nairobi Serena staff were no strangers to rumpled safari travelers.

My room was a quiet, air-conditioned haven overlooking gardens filled with palm, bougainvillea and jacaranda trees and the glittering towers of the downtown Nairobi skyline beyond. The public spaces were equally inviting. A crystalline swimming pool the size of a small lake was surrounded with tiled terraces filled with umbrella-shaded lounging and seating areas. Servers were standing by to deliver a cool drink or a light meal at a moment’s notice. The restaurants featured a variety of cuisine options, with prompt seating and friendly service. The boutique was exceptionally well stocked with gifts and casual clothing at prices comparable to that of downtown stores. There never seemed to be a compelling reason to venture out the serene world of the Serena, until it was time for me to reluctantly head for the airport. The Nairobi Serena definitely made my list of hotels to revisit and recommend whenever traveling to Kenya and East Africa.

Concierge The concierge desk was staffed around the clock with several well informed and helpful attendants.

Connectivity In-room and common area WiFi Internet access was available for a daily fee 1,000 Kenyan shillings (13 U.S. dollars).

General Manager Mark Gathuri

Handicapped Access Most public areas allowed for handicapped access. All guest rooms were accessible via elevator. Some rooms were specially designed to be wheelchair friendly.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location A five-minute walk from the city center and Central Park in Nairobi, Kenya. Jomo Kenyata International Airport was 12 miles (20 kilometers) away, a 30 to 60-minute drive depending on the time of day.

Owned-Managed Tourism Promotion Services (TPS Serena); The Aga Khan Fund for Economic Development (AKFED) was the majority shareholder.

Restaurants In addition to The Mandhari, the less formal Café Maghreb provided excellent all-day dining including daytime à-la-carte service and sumptuous breakfast and evening buffets. Light snacks were available at the Pool Bar and afternoon tea in Bambara, a lounge open exclusively to hotel residents. The Aksum bar served cocktails and beverages only. The hotel offered 24-hour room service with an extensive menu and prompt service.

Size The six-story structure featured 183 rooms and seven suites.

Year Open-Renovate The hotel opened in 1976. It was entirely renovated in 2006

Room My 215 square foot (20 square meter) standard room, Number 310, was decorated in a pan-African style in shades of taupe and bright blue, with mahogany furniture and woodwork. There was a queen-size bed with ornate wooden headboard, two bedside tables topped with brass, and wall-hung reading lamps. There were also two barrel chairs upholstered in striated dark blue velvet. They sat in front of the picture window on either side of a square end table. Windows had sheer white curtains, with bright blue and taupe draw-drapes framed by a taupe valance and side panels. A three-drawer bureau served as a base for the television set. A writing desk with a high-back chair held a desk lamp. A tall mirror and prints of African birds in gilded frames hung on the pale taupe walls. The crisp, bright white high-count cotton sheets and duvet cover were accented by a blue bed scarf and toss pillows. In addition to the usual hanging closet, the room featured a built-in mini-bar under a marble countertop, topped by shelving that held a coffee service and a variety of glasses.

Facilities There was an outdoor swimming pool, a spa, hair salon and fitness center, a boutique/gift shop and a sundries store, a full service business center and a conference facility.

Gift Shop Hazina (Swahili for treasure) was an appropriate name for the gift boutique. It offered a wealth of high quality local handicrafts, traditional gifts, carvings, ethnic jewelry and casual fashion at fair prices.

Pool The larger than Olympic-size outdoor heated swimming pool was the main focal point of the gardens. It was surrounded by the palm-shaded Pool Bar, the terrace of Café Maghreb and an expansive lounging area with two rows of rattan chaises with bright green cushions, shaded by market umbrellas. Towels were available from a kiosk at the far corner of the pool.

Spa The Maisha Spa featured a range of skin therapy and massage treatments, separate women and men steam rooms, saunas and Jacuzzis, a gym and aerobics/yoga studio, juice bar and relaxation area.

Date Of Review November 2008

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service Front desk staff were efficient and business-like. Restaurant staff were attentive, warm and friendly. My room was serviced twice a day

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

The 12-seater Cessna made a quick stop for me at the remote Siana Springs airstrip, where I was greeted by my guide John Adamba and spotter Marima. Within minutes we were rocking along a rough dirt road and across streams swollen by the onset of the autumn rains. This was Masai country at its most colorful, dotted with low bomas, fences of acacia branches encircling small villages of flat-roofed mud huts. Tall warriors in their blood-red robes went about their daily activities. Children waved at our open Land Rover before returning their attention to their herds. Soon the prairie became wooded rolling hills, and signs of human life vanished. Gazelles, antelopes and giraffes replaced cattle. What was meant to be a 25-minute ride to the camp became a leisurely game drive as John good humoredly stopped at every turn to let me photograph zebras defensively clustered in confusing patterns, or a new-born topi calf taking its first wobbly steps. Further on, Marima quietly pointed at a lioness concealed in the thicket.

At the camp, I was welcomed by manager Ernest Kavingo and the Masai staff members who immediately escorted me to my comfortably furnished, eco-friendly accommodation: a spacious tent with private bathroom, bush shower and solar electricity. Its large verandah overlooked the Laetoli, a permanent brook, and the bush beyond. But I didn’t linger, as it was already afternoon and hints of hunger drew me to the common tent where a delicious plated lunch awaited. This perfect balance of comfort, privacy and thoughtful pampering was the norm for the duration of my stay.

There were a variety of game viewing options, including game drives in the conservancy either as a destination, or as part of the day-long drive to the famous Masai Mara National Reserve, which was only 10 miles (17 kilometers) away. Within the conservancy, in addition to the wide variety of grazing animals and smaller predators, I was fortunate to observe at length members of the resident pride of lions, while night drives gave me the opportunity see nocturnal animals including a leopard. I also enjoyed an early morning botanical walk where a local Masai guide explored the local flora and fauna in more detail with me, and I enjoyed eye-level encounters with large herds of gazelles. The cooperative and exclusive venture between the owners of the camp, Gamewatchers Safaris, and the community-owned conservancy created a noticeable sense of partnership . As I was getting ready to depart, they gathered in front of the common tent and treated me to a farewell warriors’ dance. This genuine involvement on the part of the Masai staff, coupled with the close proximity to abundant game in this remote location, made my visit to Mara Porini Camp especially fulfilling and memorable.

Communications There was no Internet connection at the camp. Bluetooth and mobile phone service was unreliable. When available, it required a GSM 900/1800 compatible international cellular phone.

General Manager Ernest Kavingo

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location In the Ol Kinyei Conservancy, northeast of the Masai Mara reserve in southwest Kenya. The nearest airstrip, Siana Springs, was nine miles (15 kilometers) away. The Ol Kinyei Conservancy was 155 miles (250 kilometers) from Nairobi by road, a journey that was estimated to take four to five hours.

Owned-Managed Gamewatchers Safaris and Jake Grieves-Cook was managing director

Power All electricity was solar generated. The tents had electric lighting, but not sufficient power to charge batteries. Batteries for cameras, telephones and laptops could be charged from a small solar-powered generator in the camp manager’s office tent.

Size The seven acre (three hectare) camp consisted of six guest tents capable of accommodating up to 12 guests. It employed a staff of 27, including three guides and three spotters.

Year Open-Renovated The camp opened in 2005. Since then it had been the object of meticulous on-going maintenance.

Room My 360 square foot (33.5 square meter) tent, Number five, sat two steps above ground on a wooden platform covered with weatherproof floor matting. At the front, the platform extended the width of the tent to form an awning-shaded deck that overlooked the brook. It was furnished with two directors chairs and a small coffee table. The tent entrance was the usual zippered “door.” Side walls were zip-up flaps over mosquito-netting covered “windows.” Inside, one queen-size and one double bed with rustic wooden headboards, each with its own bedside table and reading lamp occupied one side of the tent. The opposite side held a writing desk with a wooden chair, a luggage rack, a vertical canvas shelf and a clothes-hanging rod. The back wall separated the sleeping room from the bathroom. Cowhide floor rugs covered the floor matting. Indoor lighting was produced via solar electricity.

During my visit, I sighted: elephant, lion, leopard, serval cat, bat-eared fox, spotted hyena, banded mongoose, common duiker, Kirk’s dik dik, Grant’s gazelle, Thompson’s gazelle, kongoni, topi, wildebeest, hartebeest, impala, bushbuck, eland, buffalo, Masai giraffe, warthog, hippopotamus, Burchell’s zebra, vervet monkey, olive baboon. Birds included: Maasai ostrich, secretary bird, kory bustard, white-bellied bustard, lappet-faced vulture, black-chested snake eagle, lilac-breasted roller, yellow-billed hornbill, yellow-billed oxpecker, slender-tailed nightjar, African Hoopoe.

Shortly after my visit Porini Safari Camps and parent company Gamewatchers Safaris were honored with the Responsible Tourism Award for “Best for Conservation of Endangered Species outside Protected Area” at the World Travel Market in London. The award, sponsored by Virgin Holidays, recognized Porini/Gamewatchers “for demonstrating that a high revenue, low impact tourism development approach can benefit the local Masai through developing conservancies and tourism in partnership with safari companies to create employment and community income and to conserve their land for wildlife.”

Date Of Last Visit November 2008

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service My tent was serviced twice daily, a morning cleaning and evening turn down service . Every member of the staff I encountered was attentive, friendly, helpful and well trained.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

The flight from Nairobi to the nearby Nanyuki Airstrip had been delayed so that it was mid-afternoon by the time we reached the camp and the sky was overcast. But the welcome from camp manager Paul Magiri and the Samburu staff couldn’t have been sunnier or more thoughtful. Both lunch and bush shower were ready to accommodate either of my preferences. My spacious tent, a comfortably furnished room and bathroom, faced a rolling meadow dotted with trees, where gazelles liked to browse.

While the quality of the accommodations and the friendliness of the well-trained staff made for a most enjoyable visit, what made the Porini Rhino Camp unique was… the rhinos! The Ol Pejeta Conservancy was home to the endangered black and white rhinos. Following a successful black rhino translocation in 2007 from Solio Rhino Sanctuary (in the north east of the Aberdare Mountain Range), Ol Pejeta Conservancy, with 78 animals, became one of the largest black rhino sanctuaries in East Africa. Every daytime game drive during my stay brought one or more rhinos sightings often at close range, the most memorable ones a charging male black rhino and sometime later a mating pair of white rhinos. Other rare species I enjoyed seeing at the conservancy were Grevy’s zebra (the largest, wildest and most untamable of the three zebra species in Africa) and Jackson’s hartebeest. Additionally, the conservancy was home to the Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary, possibly the only place in Kenya where this highly endangered species can be seen. Open in 1993, Sweetwater provided long-time refuge to 43 chimpanzees evacuated from their Central and West African countries of origin due to civil wars.

This combination of outstanding wildlife and stunning views across the open plateau of Ol Pejeta and the surrounding mountains made for a unique safari experience that I will treasure and recommend to friends looking to venture out of the usual safari circuits.

Communications There was no Internet connection at the camp. Bluetooth and mobile phone service was unreliable. When available, it required a GSM 900/1800 compatible international cellular phone.

General Manager Paul Magiri

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location At the equator in central Kenya, northwest of Mount Kenya, one hour’s drive from Nanuyki, the capital of Laikipia East District, 120 miles (190 kilometers) north of Nairobi.

Owned-Managed Gamewatchers Safaris (Jake Grieves-Cook was the managing director)

Power All electricity was solar generated. The tents had electric lighting, but not sufficient power to charge batteries. Batteries for cameras, telephones and laptops could be charged from a small solar-powered generator in the camp manager’s office tent.

Size The eight acre (three-and-a-quarter hectare) camp consisted of six guest tents capable of accommodating up to 12 guests. It employed a staff of 18, including two guides and two spotters.

Year Open-Renovated 2007

Room My 390 square foot tent (36 square meters), Number Five, sat on a ground-level wooden platform covered with weatherproof floor matting. The floor platform extended the length of the tent to form an outside deck shaded by a canvas awning and furnished with two canvas chairs and a small wood table. The tent entrance was a zippered “door” in the center of the front panel. Side walls were zip-up flaps over netting-covered “windows”. Inside, one queen-size and one double bed with wooden headboards, each with their own bedside table and reading lamp occupied one side of the tent. Indoor lighting was produced through solar electricity. A partition at the far end of the tent separated the sleeping room from the bathroom. A writing desk with a canvas armchair sat on one side of the central curtained doorway, while an open-front armoire with storage shelves and a clothes-hanging rod occupied the other side. Blue and white striped cotton bedside rugs completed the décor.

During my visit, I sighted: black rhinoceros, white rhinoceros, elephant, hippopotamus, lion, black-back jackal, spotted hyena, zorilla (a.k.a. stripped polecat), chimpanzee, patas monkey , vervet monkey, olive baboon, warthog, reticulated giraffe, Burchell’s zebra, Grevy’s zebra, duiker, Kirk’s dik dik, eland, wildebeest, impala, Grant’s gazelle, Jacksons hartebeest, Thompson’s gazelle, waterbuck, beisa oryx, impala, suni, steinbok. Birds included: Masai ostrich, African goshawk, African hoopoe, black-shouldered kite, buff-crested bustard, golden-breasted bunting, grassland pipit, hammerkop, Hildebrandt starling, lilac-breasted roller, red-billed firefinch, secretary bird, speckled weaver

Porini Rhino Camp was run and maintained according to strict responsible tourism guidelines regarding conservation of the environment (including use of natural resources and solid waste and sewerage disposal) as well as providing development opportunities for the local community. At the time of my visit, 90 percent of the staff was from the local Masai Samburu community. All meat products were supplied by the cattle ranch on the Conservancy grounds and produce was sourced from local farmers.

Shortly after my visit, Porini Safari Camps and its parent company Gamewatchers Safaris were honored with the Responsible Tourism Award for “Best for Conservation of Endangered Species outside Protected Area” at the World Travel Market in London. The award, sponsored by Virgin Holidays, recognized Porini and Gamewatchers “for demonstrating that a high revenue, low impact tourism development approach can benefit the local Maasai through developing conservancies and tourism in partnership with safari companies to create employment and community income and to conserve their land for wildlife.”

Date Of Last Visit November 2008

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service My tent was serviced twice daily, a morning cleaning and evening turn down service . Every member of the staff I encountered was consistently attentive, friendly, helpful and professional.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

This proximity to the local Masai community was unique at Amboseli Porini Camp. The camp was a cooperative venture between its owners, Gamewatchers Safaris and the Kisonko clan of the Masai people who owned the Selenkay conservation land. Aside from the camp management and the head chef, all members of the staff were local Masai. I had several opportunities to walk with Masai warriors who discussed with me various aspects of their culture, traditions and how indigenous natural resources were used by the community. I was able to interact with the men, women and children of the village, visit their homes, observe the activities of their daily lives and enjoy their ceremonial songs and dances. This alone would have made my visit to Amboseli Porini Camp an exceptional experience. But it was only one part of the overall program.

The next morning found me in one of the camp’s custom-designed open-sided Land Rovers on the private four-wheel-drive track that linked the Conservancy to Amboseli National Park. The abundance and variety of game was startling in the conservancy as well as the park: lions, cheetahs, caracals, hyenas, buffalos, zebras, wildebeests and gazelles galore; and bird species too numerous to recall. Most thrilling of all was the dense elephant population. At recent count, more than 1,000 of the great pachyderms were said to live in the park, many of them on the move wherever I went; large swaying herds stirring red dust across the plain, unerringly heading toward the grassy swamp in the distance. Unconcerned by our presence, they sometimes came so close to our vehicle that I felt tempted to reach out. I was back at camp with time to relax before heading out again to just the right vantage point to enjoy the stunning African sunset. An unhurried night drive followed, a great opportunity to observe the nocturnal fauna.

My time at Amboseli Porini was everything I had imagined a Kilimanjaro safari should be: legendary vistas, superb game viewing, comfortable accommodations in an environmentally responsible setting, knowledgeable local guides and warm and attentive staff. It was an experience I will recommend as a “must” to environmentally and socially conscious friends planning a visit to Kenya.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury tented bush camp

Communications There was no Internet connection at the camp. Bluetooth and mobile phone service was unreliable. When available, it required a GSM 900/1800 compatible international cellular phone.

Handicapped Access Handicapped guests could be accommodated by prior arrangement on a case-by-case basis.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location In the Selenkay Conservancy, a private reserve adjacent to the north side of Amboseli National Park, 150 miles (240 kilometers) southeast of Nairobi.

Owned-Managed Gamewatchers Safaris (Jake Grieves-Cook was the managing director)

Power All electricity was solar generated. The tents had electric lighting, but not sufficient power to charge batteries. Batteries for cameras, telephones and laptops could be charged from a small solar-powered generator in the camp manager’s office tent.

Size The 10 acre (four hectare) camp consisted of nine guest tents capable of accommodating up to 18 guests. It employed a staff of 28, including three guides and three spotters.

Year Open-Renovated The camp opened in 1997. The common tent and six of the nine guest tents were replaced in 2007. The remainder were refurbished in 2007 and scheduled for replacement in 2009.

Room My 360 square foot (33.5 square meter) tent, Number Eight, sat on level, sandy ground covered with weatherproof floor matting. The tent entrance was the usual zippered “door.” Side walls were zip-up flaps over mosquito-netting covered panels for an airy feeling and excellent ventilation. Inside, two double beds with wooden headboards, each with their own bedside table and reading lamp occupied one side of the tent. The opposite side held a writing desk with a canvas armchair. A partition separated the sleeping room from the bathroom. It held an open-front armoire with storage shelves and a clothes-hanging rod and a luggage rack. Cowhide throw rugs covered the floor matting. Indoor lighting was produced through solar electricity. In front of the tent, a large awning-shaded area with two canvas chairs and a small wooden table was a tranquil spot to relax and watch the many birds that visited the acacia canopy above.

During my visit, I sighted: elephant, lion, cheetah, zorilla (a.k.a. stripped polecat), white-tailed mongoose, serval cat, caracal, bat-eared fox, ground squirrel, Masai giraffe, Burchell’s zebra, warthog, spotted hyena, vervet monkey, yellow baboon, common duiker, Kirk’s dik dik , lesser kudu, eland, fringed-ear oryx, wildebeest, impala, Grant’s gazelle, Thompson’s gazelle, gerenuk, buffalo, flap-neck chameleon. Birds included: Masai ostrich, Sacco heron, green-backed heron, marabou stork, hammerkop, lilac-breasted roller, Egyptian goose, red-billed teal, sacred ibis, black kite, African jacana, lappet-faced vulture, crested crane, black-chested snake eagle, tawny eagle, pigmy falcon, red-billed hornbill, golden pipit, red-billed oxpecker, kory bustard, buff-crested bustard, black-winged stilt, blacksmith plover, African mourning dove, white-bellied go-away bird, little bee-eater, superb startling, white-headed buffalo weaver.

Other Because of the proximity to wild game, children had to be at least nine year old to stay at the camp.

Amboseli Porini Camp was run and maintained according to strict responsible tourism guidelines regarding conservation of the environment, management of resources, solid waste and sewerage disposal as well as providing development opportunities for the local community. At the time of my visit 90 percent of the staff was local Masai, including a chef and chef-apprentice. The three spotters were studying for guide certification, and several members of the household staff were being trained for game spotters and in-camp visitor-facing functions.

Shortly after my visit Porini Safari Camps and its parent company Gamewatchers Safaris were honored with the Responsible Tourism Award for “Best for Conservation of Endangered Species outside Protected Area” at the World Travel Market in London. The award, sponsored by Virgin Holidays, recognized Porini/Gamewatchers “for demonstrating that a high revenue, low impact tourism development approach can benefit the local Masai through developing conservancies and tourism in partnership with safari companies to create employment and community income and to conserve their land for wildlife.”

Date Of Last Visit November 2008

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service My tent was serviced twice daily, a morning cleaning and evening turn down service . Every member of the staff was consistently attentive, friendly, helpful and professional.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Kenya has long being synonymous with safari (Swahili for travel). The country was an early leader in the preservation of game and its natural habitat. Today, Kenya boasts more than 50 national parks and game reserves as well as private conservancies covering over 10 percent of its total landmass. It delights visitors with visions of archetypal Africa: endless open spaces punctuated by the wide umbrellas of flat-topped acacias and omnipresent game. The Big Five (lion, leopard, elephant, rhinoceros and buffalo) can all be found there, sometime within a day’s game drive, as well as cheetahs, zebras, wildebeest, giraffes and many other carnivores and herbivores, large and small.

Meanwhile, water-sports enthusiasts revel in the endless stretches of palm-fringed sand beaches of the coast. Here the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean are home to seven marine national parks alive with coral, fish, sea turtles and reef walls reputed among divers for their spectacular coral gardens and drop offs.

To accommodate the large numbers of visitors drawn to Kenya by this rich combination of abundant wildlife in scenic and geographically diverse habitat and pristine tropical beaches, the country offers one of Africa’s most developed tourism infrastructures. While I had long being aware of Kenya as a favorite destination for group tourism and family travel, I was pleasantly surprised on this, my first visit there, to discover a serene luxury beach resort and secluded boutique safari camps. Although a flair-up of violent civil unrest had been widely reported in the news following the national elections in January 2008 in some suburbs of Nairobi, this apparently had long subsided at the time of my visit. As in most large cities in Africa, I was cautioned by the staff of my hotel from venturing outside of hotel grounds for a walk on my own because of the risk of petty crime, Overall, I found the country peaceful and hospitable, Everywhere I visited, I was especially delighted by the courtesy and professionalism of the staff. They even taught me a few words of Swahili. The first one I learned was “Karibu!” (Welcome!)

Cost Of Visiting Reasonable to high depending on the type of accommodations and location of the property and attractions.

Currency The currency is the Kenyan shilling (KES). The exchange rate at the time of my visit was 79 KES per U.S. dollar.

Electrical Current Kenya electricity was 240 volt and 50 hertz. A NW-135C adapter was necessary when using electrical outlets (the kind used in the U.K.)

Health And Vaccinations There were no mandatory inoculations for travel to Kenya at the time of my visit. My local health clinic, following the Center for Disease Control (CDC) guidelines, recommended an up-to-date inoculation schedule for hepatitis, yellow fever, polio, rabies, tetanus, diphtheria and typhoid fever, as well as preventive medication for malaria. For daily protection from insects, I used a combination of repellant cream with CDC-recommended high DEET concentration on exposed skin, and a DEET-free spray for facial protection. Additionally, as always in tropical climates, high protection sunscreen was a daily necessity. Another routine precaution was to use only bottled water for drinking and oral hygiene.

How To Get There There were daily non-stop flights from London, Amsterdam and Paris to Nairobi Jomo Kenyata International airport.

Location East Africa. Kenya is bordered by Tanzania to the south, Uganda and Sudan to the west, Ethiopia and Somalia to the north, with the Indian Ocean forming the southeast border.

Measures Metric system

Money Issues Currency could be exchanged at Jomo Kenyata International airport in Nairobi, where a bank was located in the international arrivals hall , as well as at banks in many city and tourist locations. I found the exchange rate offered by my hotels to compare favorably with that of the bank at the airport. While U.S. dollars and Euros were accepted, I found it necessary to have on hand small amounts of Kenyan shillings for taxis, tipping and incidental purchases. Credit cards were only reliably accepted in establishments catering to tourists.

Technology Electricity, running water, air-conditioning, television, Internet and cell phone access were readily available in Nairobi and Mombasa . In the safari camps and game parks, Internet access was unavailable, while cell phone and Bluetooth connectivity became limited and unpredictable. An occasional “hot spot” materialized when least expected. In several instances, text messages started cascading from my mobile phone during a game drive, only to have the connection vanish again within one mile.

Time G.M.T. plus three hours

Shanzu Beach Located 12 miles (20 kilometers) north of Mombasa, Shanzu was an idyllic stretch of creamy sand lined with soaring palm trees and a few luxury hotels unobtrusively integrated within their exuberant tropical surroundings. It bordered the 80 square mile (210 square kilometer) Mombasa Marine National Park and Reserve, ensuring a serene environment and pristine beach. Several coral species had been identified in its reef. It also harbored a prolific marine life including green sea turtles, sea urchins and cucumbers. It was a short 15-minute boat ride from the beach and a major attraction for divers and snorkelers. It could also be easily admired from a glass-bottomed boat.

Shopping And Souvenirs The l uxury hotels I stayed at featured gift shops with good assortments of local crafts, holiday fashion, t-shirts, books and souvenirs. They also offered a reasonable assortment of sun protection and personal hygiene products. Most safari camps did not have a curio shop and those who did limited their offering to Masai beaded jewelry. Local women usually congregated at known stopping points for game drive vehicles, such as park gates, to offer traditional jewelry and small wood carvings.

Masai Mara National Reserve Located in the southwestern corner of Kenya, on the border of Tanzania, the Masai Mara is the Kenyan extension of the great Serengeti Plains. The park is one of the most renowned in Africa for its outstanding concentration and variety of game, especially its large lion population. It surpassed its reputation for me, delivering close range viewing of the Big Five in one game drive! Large journeys of Masai giraffes and herds of zebras were a common sight throughout the reserve, as well as astounding quantities of wildebeests and other antelopes, including topi, Coke’s hartebeest and the rarely seen roan antelope.

Other At the time of my visit, U.S., Canadian and E.U. passport holders were required to have a visa to enter Kenya. It could be obtained from the Kenyan embassy prior to departure. The cost of one entry tourist visa valid for six months was $50.

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Would You Visit Again? Yes

The guest rooms, their deep, intricately carved wooden balconies and fretwork screens overlooking courtyards shaded by blooming bougainvilleas and frangipani trees, were haphazardly lined along narrow stone-paved alleyways winding toward the sea. Although the cool seclusion of my balcony was an enticement to linger and enjoy the abundant population of jewel-like birds and the antics of the vervet monkeys bickering in the trees, the lure of the beach was irresistible. The Serena was graced with a seemingly endless frontage of manicured lawns and soaring palm trees overlooking a wide, creamy sand beach and the gentle surf of the Mombasa Marine National Park and Reserve, a 80 square mile (210 square kilometer) environment of shimmering waters and pristine beaches. In the distance, a roll of whitecaps announced the famed coral reef laying a short 15-minute boat ride away. Friendly local sailors in their picturesque ngawalas (traditional local trimarans made from the trunks of mango trees) and small dug out mtumbwi (Swahili for canoe) seemed always ready to negotiate a fair price to ferry us to the reef.

Along with its timeless arabesque charm, the Serena Beach delivered all the up-to-the-minute conveyances of an international luxury property, including efficient in-room air-conditioning, wireless Internet access throughout the property and superb service, infallibly attentive to my comfort and interests. It was this thoughtful attention that presented me with one of the most memorable experiences of my visit. Early on, I had expressed interest in the hotel’s involvement in a project to protect the nesting sites of migratory sea turtles. As I was leaving the restaurant after dinner on the last night of my visit, I was intercepted by a staff member who informed me that a large number of eggs from the endangered green sea turtle had been salvaged from an exposed area further up the coast. They were being settled in a safe nest on the property. Did I care to participate? I did! I was immediately escorted to the site and introduced to the biologist in charge, David Olendo, Ph.D. Under his guidance, I spent the next hour digging the sand and helping to deposit 140 eggs in their nest, wishing that I could be there in 60 days to see the hatchlings make their dash to the sea.

While the Serena Beach Hotel was a large property that could host travelers on family vacations, its expansive grounds and low profile, rambling village layout made for a private and serene environment. I found it an outstanding place to relax for a few days before the start of a strenuous safari itinerary. But I will also keep it in mind as a destination onto itself for a seashore holiday and a base for an exploration of the historic Swahili cities and ruins of the East African Coast.

Concierge Ali Muhashamy

Connectivity My quad-band cell phone was fully functional on the property and in the greater Mombasa area. At the hotel, WiFi Internet access was available in my room and in the public areas, for a daily charge of 1,000 Kenyan shillings (about $13 )

General Manager Charles Muia

Handicapped Access Some ground-floor guest rooms were wheel-chair friendly.

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location On Shanzu Beach on the Indian Ocean coast, 12 miles (20 kilometers) north from the centre of Mombasa, the main port city of Kenya in east Africa. Moi International Airport was 18 miles (30 kilometers) to the west, a 40-minute drive away.

Owned-Managed Tourism Promotion Services Eastern Africa, Ltd (TPS). The Aga Khan Fund for Economic Development (AKFED) was the majority shareholder.

Restaurants There were three restaurants on the property, to accommodate a broad range of dining styles. The Fountain, the main restaurant, was open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Breakfast was served from 7 A.M. to 10 A.M. It was a lavish buffet style affair with a baked goods and local jams display that was a work of art. It featured freshly baked brioches that could rival any I have enjoyed in Paris. This sorely tested my resolve, as an endless cold buffet followed, filled with exotic fruits and juices, international cheeses, delicious hams and other charcuteries that were hard to resist. It was followed by an equally tempting hot buffet with interesting Swahili dishes that showcased the Indian and Arabian influence of the cuisine. Selection was sweet torture, especially as a few steps further, two chefs stood at the ready to whip up any egg concoction on demand! And did I mention the complimentary champagne? I trust lunch was equally delicious, but after such morning excesses, I thought it best to forgo lunch. Dinner was à-la-carte most evenings and buffet-style on Tuesdays and Fridays. Menu was international with French influences and local flavors and consistently delicious.

A short walk from the common areas, the elegant El Jahazi Grill sat at the edge of the beach. The restaurant was built to resemble a traditional Swahili dhow, complete with sanded decks, painted prow and lashed sails. Jahazi Grill menu specialized in freshly caught seafood. With choices including crab, squid, lobster, prawns and a wide variety of local ocean fish, I once again found myself hard pressed to make a decision (the grilled squid won out in the end. Superb!).

For guests looking for a quick snack or casual meal, the palm-thatched Sokoni coffee shop served fresh-baked pizzas and other international light fare. It was open from 11:30 A.M. until early evening.

Size The 62 acre (25 hectare) property featured 164 rooms in two and three level structures arranged village-style around spacious common areas, along a one-and-a-quarter mile (two kilometer) beach. The resort could accommodate a maximum of 340 guests. It employed a staff of 285.

Year Open-Renovated The property opened in 1973. It was fully renovated in 2005.

Room Located in the Village area, styled to resemble the back streets of the historic island town of Lamu, my 300 square foot (28 square meter) room, Number 21, was a pleasing combination of Lamu-style Arabian elegance and modern conveniences. A carved-base ebony king-size platform bed included a headboard upholstered in crimson and white local fabric and built-in side tables. Above the bed, the whitewashed rough plaster wall featured a rectangular niche displaying a carved wood panel. It was flanked by the two brass lanterns that served as bedside lights. At night, the entire bed area was enclosed in a walk-in mosquito net. Sliding glass doors leading to the balcony were draped in white cotton with crimson trim. In front of the them, two wooden armchairs with red and white cushions were separated by a round side table. Lighting was provided by a tall wooden floor lamp painted with stripes of primary colors, topped by an oversized white shade. The wall opposite the bed held a writing desk with a wooden chair topped by a wall mirror, a bureau and a cabinet holding a mini bar that also served as a base for the television set. On the interior wall, the four-door floor-to-ceiling closet was faced with intricate dark fretwork. A mahogany chest with brass inlays doubled as a luggage stand. Floor covering was pale taupe ceramic tile covered by two crimson bedside runners. Yellow and red toss pillows on the bed and armchairs provided additional bright touches. The ceiling was traditional Swahili white coral limestone separated by dark red-stained mangrove pole.

Beach Shanzu beach outlined the frontage of the hotel property. It was part of the Mombasa Marine National Park and Reserve, established to protect the marine and coastal environments of the Indian Ocean territorial waters, including the coral reef running less than half-a-mile (one kilometer) off-shore, the prolific marine life it sustained and the immediate hinterland areas that border the ocean.

A few souvenir vendors displayed their wares market-style on the beach, mainly unremarkable wood carvings and cotton sarongs at inflated prices, inviting negotiation. They were accredited by the local authorities who regulated their number and hours of operations (9 A.M, to 6 P.M.). Each one wore an official identification badge,

Business Center Basic business services (fax, copier, computer for web access) were available. Secretarial services could also be arranged. A meeting room with seating for up to 35 classroom or 50 theater style was available.

Facilities There was a swimming pool, a children’s wading pool, an ice cream parlor, bar and billiard room, a spa with separate male and female facilities, a fitness studio, a hair salon, squash and tennis courts, a gift shop and a business center.

Gift Shop The large and well stocked gift boutique featured a good assortment of well-priced casual resort wear and t-shirts, quality local crafts, ethnic jewelry and traditional gifts, as well as basic personal hygiene products.

Pool At the center of the coconut-palm shaded grounds overlooking the ocean, a free-form Olympic-length swimming pool was a focal point of the property. It was surrounded by a broad apron in tiled geometric stripes of beige and brown. Dozens of lounge chairs with thick brown pads were scattered around the pool area and on the lush lawn that separated it from the beach. At the far end of the pool a thatched “swim-up” bar served exotic cocktail concoctions. Vigilant pool attendants were on hand with stacks of bright turquoise beach towels.

Spa The Maisha Spa offered a variety of treatments and massages in its a superbly serene and luxuriously appointed facility, re-opened after a complete renovation in 2007. It was comprised of four treatment rooms, each with its own private outdoor shower and beautifully landscaped courtyard; a yoga podium suspended over a reflective pool of water, and a special treatment and relaxation area for couples. Click here to read dedicated article about the Maisha Spa.

The hotel had recently set up an impressive butterfly project, which aimed to provide breeding areas for 12 species of endangered forest butterflies. The butterflies were hatched as larvae and developed into fully-fledged butterflies within the carefully constructed confines of the breeding houses, which were planted with foliage specific to the breeding and feeding habits of the various species. Once sufficient numbers of each species had been reared, selected groups were released into the hotel grounds to fulfill their ecological function (and contribute to the enjoyment of the guests).

The hotel cooperated with the Kenya Sea Turtle Conservation Committee on a rescue and conservation project that aimed to protect the nesting and feeding sites of seven species of migratory turtles. The program’s objectives were to reduce the incidence of captured turtles by trawlers and fishing nets, curb the exploitation of turtle meat, shells and eggs and protect the hatching cycle of the baby turtles.

The Mombasa Serena Beach Hotel and Spa was a member of the Leading Hotels of the World

Date Of Review October 2008

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service Every member of the staff and management team with whom I came in contact during my stay was consistently attentive, friendly and professional. My room was serviced twice per day.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes