Overall Impression The most memorable aspects of Xugana Island Lodge, a small luxury camp in an island on the northern edge of the Moremi Game Reserve in Botswana’s famous Okavango Delta, were the water setting and abundance of colorful birds. In the tree canopy above and around the main area there was a variety of birds, including the ever difficult to photograph paradise flycatchers. We liked the quiet setting, pleasant boat rides, and the sense of remoteness of the camp.

The X in Xugana was pronounced with a click or like a K. The property name was derived from the bushmen, the original inhabitants of the area, word for warthogs. Seeing unfamiliar animals in the water (hippos) they mistook them for warthogs, which were familiar to them, and called the lagoon Xugana.

It was uncomfortably hot with hardly any respite for the entire duration of our stay. The property, which relied on daytime generator power as its sole source of energy, was not equipped for the intense heat wave that blanketed the region driving daytime temperatures to 45 Celsius (113 Fahrenheit). While a dip in the pool was somewhat cooling there was limited shade in the pool deck and nowhere else that was less hot. Sitting in the over heated tents, which were shut most of the day, was unpleasant. Likewise outdoor seating was debilitating.

The Xugana Lagoon facing property was on a private concession. According to the folder in my room the lodge was the second to be built in Botswana. While at the lodge we saw red lechwe and caught a glimpse of sitatunga, antelopes not present in other places in our itinerary. The waterscapes, water settings and sunset views of the Okavango Delta, spacious common area deck with lagoon views, friendly management staff, buffet meals, and birding opportunities made the visit worthwhile. We also appreciated the well appointed (if very hot) luxury tents, curio shop, computer with slow internet connection for guest use, and refreshing outdoor pool. We would return in a cooler season. We recommend Xugana Island Lodge to our friends who enjoy lush unspoiled waterscapes, sparse game viewing, and excellent birding while staying at an intimate comfort oriented remote safari camp in the Okavango Delta.

Children Although there were only adults during our visit, the property welcomed children six and older. A spokesperson indicated families usually book a private boat.

Class of Accommodation Luxury Tented Camp

Connectivity There was no cell phone service. There was a one computer for shared guest use in the library with slow (a megabyte, 1-100 kilobytes per second) internet connection.

General Manager Bruce Petty. Four individuals shared management duties while we were there: Julia, Fred, Frank and IT.

Handicapped Access According to a company spokesperson handicapped guests were welcome subject to the following clarification, the property was quite challenging for those on wheel chairs because the there were no wheelchair friendly rooms and pathways, and the activities offered there (boat cruises, mokoro and walking safaris) did not favor people in a wheelchair.

Length of Stay Three nights

Location In a private concession facing Xugana Lagoon near the northern Moremi Game Reserve in Botswana’s Okavango Delta. From the landing strip, it was a 15 minute boat ride to the camp.

Owned and Managed Desert & Delta Safaris, which was owned by Chobe Holdings Limited, owned the lodge. As of August 2015, the directors of Chobe Holdings Limited, a company incorporated in Botswana, were P. M. Van Riet-Lowe, chairman, J. M. Gibson, deputy chairman and chief executive officer, J. A. Bescoby, A. D. Chilisa, B. D. Flatt, R. Gerrard , K. Ledimo, J.M. Nganunu-Macharia, D. S. Ter Haar, and A. M. Whitehouse.

Size The five hectare camp with eight Luxury Tents was in a private concession. There were 29 employees, including five guides, and three boats for water activities.

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation In 1970, Harry Selby built the lodge, one of the first to cater to overseas photographic safaris. In 2000, Desert and Delta Safaris bought the lodge immediately after its old owners had fully renovated it.

Lobby and Common Areas We flew to a landing strip about 15 minutes away by boat from the island lodge. Our guide and one of his colleagues picked us up from the landing strip. After introducing himself he carried our luggage and led us to a metal motorboat with a canvas top. From there we motored to the island. It was an easy one step climb from the boat to the deck. At the camp dock, Julia and IT, co-managers, welcomed us with warm moist scented towels. After we signed the usual indemnity waivers, Julia shared safety precautions, described the camp activities, and layout before we sat down to brunch the camp’s main shady waterside deck. Beautiful paradise flycatchers and other colorful birds flew above us in the tree canopy that provided shade to the deck.

In addition to the water facing deck, the main building was open and housed a buffet section, interior seating area, curio shop, and bar. Common area his and hers bathrooms were a few steps from the bar in a stand alone structure. In front of the bar there was an open platform that served as a fire pit in evening. Next to it, one level lower, there was a floating platform and tents 1 and 2. Twenty feet back from the buffet section there was a stand-alone building with the managers office. Another 10 or 20 feet behind the office there was a raised wood deck with an outdoor pool deck.

Bathrooms The entrance to the bathroom was via a wood door on the side of my tent. It had wood flooring identical to the rest of the tent. The rear wall was the concrete that divided the two tents. The left wall and the wall facing the sleeping area of the tent were made of painted white wood. There was a large window built into the upper half of the remaining wall. The bottom half was tiled. A doorless shower enclosure was to the right of the entrance. Large off-white tiles covered the shower walls. There was a built-in towel rail on the wall next to the sink. Beneath the sink there were bath towels, hand towels and facecloths. I enjoyed the partial water view and bush view from the shower enclosure. A wood base was home to two ceramic sinks with hot and cold water faucets beneath a large rectangular wood framed mirror. The toilet, to the left, wobbled. The toilet paper roll dispenser malfunctioned, causing the toilet paper to fall to ground. Lighting was from generator. When it was off there were battery operated lamps. Light switches were on a panel outside the bathroom by the door.

Rooms I stayed in Luxury Tent 4 and my travel partner stayed in Luxury Tent 3, neighboring 5 meter by 5 meter tents sharing a common wall and thatched roof. They had identical furnishings and mirror image layouts. To reach our tents we walked down a dirt path a few feet to one side of the shady sitting area of the main deck adjacent to the dock. The location of our tents was particularly convenient. They were comfortable and functional, although there was no lounge chair in which to sit during the midday break. Other than the desk chair the only place to sit was the bed. Although there were folding chairs on the covered porch it became uncomfortably hot once the afternoon sun covered it. My travel partner’s deck was in the shade and cooler than mine.

Our two tents shared a common entryway from the main pathway. They were set at an angle from each other so that we did not hear the noises from one to the other. Tent 3 faced the lagoon and had a bush and water view from the interior and deck. Tent 4 faced the bush and had a lateral partial view of the lagoon. From my tent I could see the steps and deck of Tent 5, about 10 feet away. I could also hear some of the conversation.

The entrance to our tents was via a few wood steps on the side of each tent. They led onto a wood deck with wooden railing. There was a large tree trunk in the middle of my deck. There were two folding canvas chairs on the side of the deck and a floor mat next to the sliding glass doors (with no lock) that lead to the interior. The lack of a lock was worrisome because aggressive baboons, who knew how to open unlocked doors, visited the camp more than once during our stay. A whole troop walked unafraid around our pathway, tent entryway, lawns and pool deck. A male baboon was confrontational and would not depart until a male manager ran him off from the path in front of my tent.

The tent flooring and deck were made of wood. The tent had two wood walls painted white and the remaining two walls were covered with reed. Large rectangular openings covered with mosquito screening on two walls served as windows. The interior of the tent was shady. Sunlight filtered through the sliding glass door and rectangular openings. In addition, there were two lights attached to the wood above one of the rectangular openings as well as two battery operated lamps affixed to the wall above the wood night tables and a lamp on the desk. Twin beds with wooden headboards sat next to each other in the center of the tent. They had white sheets, medium thickness duvets, and four synthetic pillows. A wood frame with mosquito netting tucked to one side hung above the bed. At night, the staff would spread the mosquito netting to surround the beds. There were two rectangular cowhide floor mats, one by each bed. At the foot of the beds there were two trunks. A rolled up blanket was tethered to each one with leather straps, making it impractical to sit on the trunks. Every day when the staff serviced the tent they placed a pretty leaf or flower arrangement on the beds.

To the right of the bed there was a long rectangular wood bench beneath an adjustable canvas shade. I used it as a luggage rack. In the corner, next to the bench and facing the rectangular tent window, there was a wooden table that served as a desk and a cushioned rattan armchair. In an opening on the desk there were two books, one magazine, and the camp folder. Atop the table there was a tissue box, an ash tray and a lamp. An ivory tone curtain could be extended over the sliding glass door for privacy and a minor respite from the afternoon sun and heat.

On the opposite corner from the desk there was a built-in wood wardrobe with hanging and shelf space as well as a lock box, and a drawer at the bottom. Next to the entrance to the bathroom there was a folding table with a wood tray on top. It had a beverage service on the tray, including a hot water pitcher. The sole items of decoration hung on the walls to the right of the bed and above the beverage tray. One was a black-and-white bush photo. The other was a description of the Legends of Ngamiland (the district where the Delta is located) and the pioneers of the area, including the founder of Xugana Island.

Meals Guests and staff dined at a communal table beneath the trees of the main deck. Meals, served at a buffet table, were at the same times every day. They varied slightly depending on the cook. Breakfast was between 6 a.m. and 6:30 a.m., immediately before the morning activity. Brunch was at 11 a.m. immediately following the morning activity. Tea was between 3:30 p.m. and 4 p.m., immediately before the afternoon activity, and dinner with at 8 p.m. Staff banged on a drum before each meal to inform us that the buffet was served and the staff were ready for us. Before dinner, several of the staff lined up, introduced themselves and described the menu for the evening. Our favorite was the description and the meal itself prepared by the bushman cook. She shared it in her native tongue as well as English.

For example, for brunch on our first day there was quiche, red cabbage salad, bobotje (a regional dish), lettuce salad, cheeses, fruit salad and dessert. For dinner our first night there was tasty kudu and chicken (favorites). For dinner on the second night there was lamb with two sauce choices, potato slices in a light cream sauce, rice, salad, and a spicy bean and cabbage dish, Desert was crème brulle (more like a flan)

Amenities Twice daily activities and all meals, excluding beverages, were included in the daily rate as was bottled water from a single cooler in the main building. There were bottles of water in the rooms for us to brush our teeth. In lieu of bottled water to drink, the property provided us with refillable non thermos metallic bottles.

Bathroom toiletries included Charlotte Rhys disposable shower caps, shower gel, body lotion and conditioning shampoo in refillable plastic containers attached to the walls. The staff offered us moist scented washcloths on arrival at the camp and every time we returned from an activity. There were two cotton bath robes, slippers, flashlight, insect repellent, blow dyer, and lock box for valuables. There was complementary laundry. In the main building, there was a shelf with books and a computer with a slow internet connection for guest use.

Facilities There was an outdoor swimming pool. In the main building, there was a curio shop, a floating platform (near tents 1 and 2), a lounge, water facing expansive deck, and bar.

Pool There was an outdoor pool, 5 meters by 7 meters large and 1.5 meters deep, set on a raised wooden platform. In the pool deck, there were five cushioned comfortable lounge chairs and one umbrella. Towels were kept in a wood container on one corner of the deck. There were beverages (soft drinks, bottled water and beer) in a cooler in another corner of the deck. They were slightly cooler than room temperature because there was no ice in the cooler. One afternoon while we were at the pool one of the staff poured ice in the cooler. Thanks to an automated pool sweeper the pool with mostly free of leaves. There were a few dead insects on the surface. The water clarity was excellent. The bottom was slightly slippery. Because the pool itself was in the sun during the midday break between meals it was best to remain under the shade of the umbrella in the summer heat.

Shop There were curios, branded clothing, cotton scarves, books, and two bottles of South African sunblock. Prices ranged between 7.50 pula for a postcard and 540 pula for a zebra necklace.

Game Viewing Our young guide, Kambato “Kam” from the Ngami Lake area, was described by the property as a professional guide with one year of experience. Promise from the Delta panhandle, and Robert also accompanied us on outings. Robert, while quiet, was helpful and excellent at spotting and identifying birds once he noticed our interest.

Because the park closed at sunset we had to depart immediately after our sun downer stop, heading back to the boats and to the property across the river with alacrity in the dimming light before the sun set was complete.

We saw the following animals during boat rides and walks: elephant, hippopotamus, lechwe, leopard, spotted-necked otter, souther reedbuck, sitatunga, warthog and baboons (in the camp). Among the reptiles we saw Nile crocodile, Nile monitor, and painted reed frog.

We saw or heard the following birds: arrow-marked babbler, black-collared barbet, crested barbet, southern carmine bee-eater, white-fronted bee-eater, little bee-eater, coppery-tailed coucal, black crake, African darter, white-faced duck, cattle egret, great egret, little egret, African fish-eagle, spur-winged goose, black heron, grey heron, ruffus-bellied heron, squacco heron, African hoopoe, African sacred ibis, hadeda ibis, African jacana, lesser jacana, malachite kingfisher, pied kingfisher, woodland kingfisher, blacksmith lapwing, long-toed lapwing, common moorhen, black-crowned night-heron, African open-bill, African paradise-flycatcher, African pygmy-goose, white-browed robin-chat, lilac-breasted roller, black-winged stilt, African stonechat, woolly-necked stork, yellow-billed stork, lesser-striped swallow, water thick-knee, golden weaver, and white-winged widowbird.

Plants we saw: common wild fig, leadwood tree, marula tree, mangoosteen, and blue water lily.

Activities There were three main types of activities on offer: short fiberglass mokoro (canoe) rides to illustrate how the locals used to travel the waterways before motorboats became ubiquitous, motorboat rides, and guided walks. We went on one mokoro ride. The rest of the time we spent on boat rides and walks. The walks were challenging because of the summer heat and provided very limited game and bird viewing.

It was also possible to fish for bream and catfish. The latter were known to grow up to 1.4 meters in size. Before our first activity and when there were new arrivals, our guide explained what we would be doing and shared safety guidelines such avoiding swimming in the Delta, not standing up while the boat was moving and never dangling limbs in the water. In case of rain during a boat ride or walk the policy was for the guide to assesses the intensity of the rainfall to decide whether to continue. According to a representative, it was rare for an activity to be called off because of rain. The property had Yamaha 6 meter four stroke boats with a maximum occupancy of eight guests.

There was space on the boats for nine guests. Our boat had a canvas cover which provided partial shade to some of the guests some of the time. We sat on plastic chairs affixed to the boat. There were blankets and life vests on the seats. We used them to cushion the plastic seats. Our primary guide stood at the back driving the boat and our secondary guide sat near him or among us. The boat rides were either speeding through the deep water sections or slow going along the shallow and narrow canals. There was thick underwater foliage in places and sometimes there were hippos hidden beneath the surface. At least once our motor overheated and we had to wait for it to cool down before we could continue on our way back to camp.

The afternoon of our arrival we went on a mokoro ride. Six of us rode with our guides to the landing strip where the canoes were kept. On the way there we stopped a couple of times to observe a crocodile or photograph a flower. During one of the stops, our guide plucked seven water lilies with their stems out of the water and showed us how the inhabitants of the area used to make highly prized water lily necklaces. We were one or two per canoe with a guide who did the poling on very shallow water. From the departure point we went a short distance to get a feel for how local people used to travel along the Okavango Delta. On our return, we watched the sunset while drinking sundowners on the edge of the landing strip before returning to camp at about 6:45 p.m.

The following morning the same six of us left at about 6:45 a.m., heading off on the motorboat to Palm Island, where we walked almost continuously until just after 10 a.m. when we boarded the motorboat to return to camp. Along the way we saw antelope, including a relaxed reedbuck closeup, elephant from several miles away, and warthog. Our guide identified a handful of birds. From a distance, we also saw (the best view was with binoculars) a leopard walking among a herd of red lechwe antelope. We walked at a fast pace over uneven ground to where we had seen the leopard. As soon as it saw us it fled, allowing us a fleeting glimpse as it ran into the bush. It was a clear hot day and the walking wore most of us out. By the time we returned to the boat we were hot and sweaty. We had finished the water in our refillable bottles. In the boat cooler there were several cardboard containers of juice and two 500 milliliter water bottles.

That afternoon we went to the Hippo Pool. We left at 4:05 p.m. and arrived at 5:15 p.m. It was windy and the water was choppy. After spending 10 minutes with two dozen or so anxious hippos, we went to a small nearby island where we saw yellow billed storks and sacred ibis for a few minutes before rushing to catch the sunset on our way back to camp at 6:45 p.m. The following day, we returned to the bird island and Hippo Pool. Strong winds made it difficult to maneuver the boat. Also local fires stung our noses and eyes.

Other Although we liked the conservation minded concept behind the refillable non thermos metallic bottles the staff provided us on arrival at a previous Desert and Delta Safaris property, in practice the idea did not work well. The worst hindrance to the concept was that the water chilled from the cooler became warm within minutes. In addition, carrying the bottles from our rooms to refill them in the main building was inconvenient, especially during the rest period between boat rides when it was hot and uncomfortable everywhere and we sought water to lower our body temperature and quench our thirst. Refilling our bottles also required queuing up at the single water cooler when everyone was preparing for departure. If we placed them in the boat cooler it was difficult to tell the bottles apart.

Cleanliness Very good

Date of Last Visit November 2015

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our tents were serviced twice daily, in the morning when they cleaned, made up the beds, and picked up laundry; and in the afternoons when they returned clean laundry and made the room ready by enclosing the beds in mosquito netting and turning on the lights. When we arrived at the camp and each time we returned from a game viewing activity uniformed staff welcomed us with a kind word and a cool and fragrant moist facecloth towel for each of us.

Staff were responsive to requests and pleasant. For example, when I asked for a refill of ginger cookies for the cookie jar they baked a fresh batch and filled it. On the first night, my tent was in total darkness when I returned. On the second night, the external light was on and the tent interior was dark. There were plumbing problems in my bathroom on my final night during dinner. One of the staff offered to relocate me to the furthest tent by displacing a staff member staying there temporarily. In the end, the repairmen were able to solve the problem by bedtime.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression My visit to Xaranna began with a quintessential Delta experience, an exhilarating boat ride through a watery labyrinth of papyrus-bordered channels and floating islands of water lily pads. Secluded in the pristine wilderness of a 62,000 acre (25,000 hectare) wildlife concession in the southern Okavango, Xaranna can only be reached by boat most of the year. Birds soared as we went by and tiny painted frogs clung to their reeds; bulbous eyes emerged at water level, attached to a large bull hippo unflinchingly claiming right of way. We detoured. Across the lagoon, pale pavilions materialized among the trees. We landed to the warmest of welcomes from the management and staff.

From the dock, a family of carved wood hippos showed the way up the stairs to the main lodge, and set the stage for the whimsical lagoon theme of the property. The spacious lounge was a raised wooden platform opened on all sides to a panoramic view of the stunning patchwork of lagoons and channels that surrounded the camp. My tent, more like an oversized bungalow under a tented roof, was a delightful cocoon of luxury filled with thoughtful details that brought bush camp pampering to new heights. From the luxurious bathroom that opened onto a deep private veranda and swimming-size plunge pool with a view of the lagoon to the air-conditioned sleeping area, the comfort of the appointments was exceptional. There was a “gym in a bag” complete with Pilates elastic ropes and free weights to exercise away the delicious camp food, binoculars and a book on local birds for lounge-chair observation of the abundant bird and water-fowl population. Massages could be scheduled in my tent with the resident masseuse. And there were thoughtful attentions at every turn, from the wake-up call carafe of freshly squeezed orange juice to the bubble bath dotted with flower petals drawn in my oversized bathtub when I return from my sundowner drive.

While the customary bush camp twice-daily game drives were available and the guides and trackers of Xaranna were remarkably friendly and capable, they cheerfully indulged my preference for quietly drifting along reed-lined channels in a mokoro (flat dug-out canoe commonly used to navigate the Okavango waterways). I spent many contented hours taking in jewel-bright kingfishers darting in and out of the reeds, and hundreds of iridescent dragonflies hovering about, while giraffes browsed on the far side of the lagoon and the occasional elephant waded across. Judging by the glowing reports of fellow guests (a bird-watching couple declared themselves in heaven, others came back from a game drive bursting with the excitement of having spotted a cheetah with her cubs), there was something to satisfy a variety of pursuits in Xaranna. As for me, what I most enjoyed was the peaceful bird-filled environment, the excellence of the service and the luxury and romance of the accommodations. In addition to bird-watchers, I will recommend Xaranna to honeymooners, and to weary travelers looking for a relaxing introduction to the beauty of the Okavango Delta at the start of a safari itinerary. Or as I did, one serene last look at the end of an extended trip, before starting on the long journey home.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury river camp

Communications There was no mobile phone service in the area. Short-wave radio was the lodge’s main means of communication. Satellite phone was available for emergencies. For guests with their own laptop, there was good WiFi Internet access in the main lodge.

General Manager Johan van der Merwe, and the Lodge Manager is Nicolene Schoeman

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location In the southern Okavango Delta; a 20-minute flight by light airplane from Maun, the main gateway into Botswana’s safari areas.

Owned-Managed &Beyond, previously known as Conservation Corporation Africa (CC Africa), with headquarters in Johannesburg, South Africa, owned and managed the property. At the time of this writing &Beyond itself is owned by two major shareholders, Capricorn (the Enthoven family, originally from South Africa) and the Getty Family Trust.

Power The camp had diesel-generated power . The tents had electric lighting and air-conditioning, and sufficient power to charge batteries for cameras, computers and other electronic devices.

Size The 18.5-acre (7.5 hectares) camp consisted of nine guest suites capable of accommodating up to 18 guests. It employed a staff of 35, including four guides and four trackers.

Year Opened-Renovated Xaranna was inaugurated and opened for guests in August 2008.

Lobby And Common Areas The main lodge was a two-level wooden platform under ecru canvas with the dining room to the right and the lounge to the left. Both had wide front decks that faced the flood plain. The dining room was level with the entrance. To the rear, it was partitioned from the kitchen and service area by a series of wall-size wooden alcoves, each holding a white chest of drawers under a poster-size areal view of a Delta scene. White-painted carvings of grinning hippos were lined up on top of the alcoves. Dining furniture was a row of matching square pedestal tables and lime green molded resin contemporary dining chairs. There were similar tables and chairs on the open deck for al fresco dining.

To the left of the entrance, seven steps led up to the raised lounge. It was open on all sides. However, canvas panels could be rolled down to enclose the entire space. Flooring was polished wood covered with room-size natural jute rugs. There were three distinct areas in the lounge, decorated in a playful mix of contemporary design furnishings and quirky Delta-inspired accessories. The bar area had a back wall that held a built-in bar. In front of it, seating included two overstuffed sofas with pastel green canvas slipcovers and a long matching bench with a multitude of assorted pastel throw pillows. An eclectic grouping that mixed Lucite cubes, trunks covered with a collage of Delta images and trays held by fat-bottomed hippos formed a large center coffee table. The other end of the lounge doubled as a library. It housed a large semi-circular high-back sofa, with identical green canvas cushions and pastel pillows. The coffee table was a similar grouping of disparate flat surfaces. It held piles of books on safari-related topics, with more stored in a metal spiral hanging from a horizontal beam. A large metal wood stove offered a cozy spot to meet for evening drinks and exchange adventure stories with other guests. On the Delta side, the open deck was furnished with groupings of contemporary chrome and white wicker armchairs and sofas, with matching glass-topped coffee tables. End tables were rough-hewn wood cubes. Two modern chrome and green canvas swing armchair hung from a ceiling beam. After dark, large pillar candles in green glass hurricane lamps, and tall wooden candlesticks offered filled the tent with a romantic glow.

Bathroom To the left of the bedroom, the bathroom ran the width of the tent. It featured an oversized, freestanding center bathtub and an open shower with a large curved metal backsplash. A vanity with twin sinks rested against a curved paneled partition that separated the bathroom from the bedroom. Two rectangular mirrors framed with distressed wood and chrome wall sconces with parchment shades hung above the sinks. All bathroom fixtures were pristine white porcelain. The back wall held a floor length mirror and the door to the water closet with flush toilet. Storage shelving separated the sink area from the bath and shower. A sliding panel in the outer wall opened onto a large veranda with an outdoor shower and a large circular sofa facing the plunge pool and the lagoon.

Room My 1011 square foot (94 square meter) tent with wrap-around deck and side veranda, Number Two, was a natural canvas pavilion with a double-peaked roof held by tree-sized pillars. The outer walls were made of mesh screening. Tan canvas Roman shades could be lowered for privacy. The floors were dark polished wood covered with natural jute runners and throw rugs. The sliding front door opened onto a long foyer. A wooden partition separated it from the bedroom. It was decorated with a credenza covered with a collage of black and white Delta vignettes. A wall-size color close-up of a water lily bloom flanked by two wall sconces hung above it. At the far right of the foyer, a counter-height green pedestal held bar utensils and stacked black leather boxes with snacks. An ice chest covered in green canvas held ice and an assortment of cold drinks.

On the right, the foyer opened onto the sleeping area where a king-size bed on a white wooden platform faced the bush. It was draped in cappuccino-colored linen that could be closed to serve as mosquito netting at night. The platform also held two tall reading lights. The overhead air-conditioning unit was remote-controlled. Bedding was white high-count cotton with green embroidered trim. A large circular sofa upholstered in green canvas occupied the right corner of the tent. A full-length mirror in a large natural burlap frame was propped up against the wall behind it. An arc lamp, its shade covered with a cluster of felt water lilies hung above it. In front, a black and white collage-covered writing table and lime green molded resin and chrome chair completed the ensemble.

Food The food was excellent, fresh and well prepared. A breakfast buffet was served before the morning game drive. It included cereals, yoghurts, fruit and freshly baked breads with fruit juices, tea and coffee. Full English breakfast was available on demand. Lunch and dinner were served at individual tables. Lunch was assorted cold meat dishes and salads, breads and a tray of cheeses. Teatime was around 4 PM, prior to departure for afternoon activities. It was a combination of savory snacks and cakes with tea, coffee and juices. The three-course dinner was formally served plated and featured a choice of entrees, usually a choice of meat, game or fish main course, and a vegetarian option. Deserts were scrumptious, (a sinfully rich chocolate fondue immediately springs to mind!).

Amenities Xaranna offered an exceptional array of amenities. The sitting area had assorted drinking glasses, an ice bucket filled with ice cubes, a fresh lime on a cutting board with knife and stacked boxes with cashews, trail mix and banana chips. The ice chest held bottled water, soft drinks, white wine and beer. There was a canvas bag with binoculars, a copy of Birds of Southern Africa (Ian Sinclair, Phil Hockey & Warwick Tarboron), a deck of cards, backgammon and scrabble games. In the bedroom there was a box of tissues and a folder with an assortment of stationery on the desk and an intercom handset to communicate with the main lodge. There was also a large pillar candle in a glass vase and a jar of marshmallows.

In the bathroom there was a hairdryer, a generous supply of thick cotton bath and hand towels, washcloths, two each cotton sarongs, terrycloth bathrobes and slippers, and pool towels. The shower and sink area had face soap, laundry soap, bath soap, pump bottles of body scrub, bath oil, shampoo, conditioner and body moisturizing cream, shower caps, cotton balls and cotton swabs. Votive candles were arranged around the room. The storage partition had an electronic safe large enough to accommodate a laptop computer as well as smaller valuables. There was mosquito and insect repellent spray, two high-density flashlights, an emergency horn and two umbrellas. A wicker tote bag was filled with exercise equipment, including a yoga mat, Pilates elastic ropes, and sets of two and five pound free weights.

All meal, soft drinks and house alcoholic beverages were included, as were all game viewing activities and daily laundry service. Top brand alcoholic beverages such as vintage wines, French champagnes and luxury whiskies where available for an additional charge.

Gift Shop There was a well-stocked gift boutique within the main lodge area. It carried an assortment of chic Xaranna-branded safari wear, a variety of wood carvings, antique trinkets, local crafts and jewelry, and a few safari-related books.

Pool My suite had a private 6 foot x 14 foot (1.8 meter x 4.25 meter) plunge pool overlooking the bush.

Spa Although Xaranna didn’t have a dedicated spa facility, there was licensed masseuse on staff who offered a range of treatment options, including Swedish and aromatherapy massages in the guest tents.

Game Viewing While at Xaranna I saw: elephant, hippo, Cape buffalo, giraffe, lechwe and bushbuck. Bird sightings included: purple heron, African fish eagle, pied kingfisher, squacco heron, African jacana, Pel’s fishing owl, African darter, malachite kingfisher, black-bellied korhaan and Marshall eagle.

Activities In addition to game and bird viewing drives in open game-watching vehicles through the varied Delta landscape, the twice-daily activities included river cruises in electrically powered “eco-boats” or mokoros and bushwalks through the riverine forest around the camp.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit November 2009

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service Excellent. My suite was serviced three times daily. Every member of the management and staff was thoughtful, enthusiastic and eager to please. Attention to details was outstanding. When an unexpected rainstorm the night prior to my departure cast doubt whether the usual airstrip used by Xaranna would be operational, I was immediately informed not to be concerned. A helicopter pickup was being scheduled to take me to an alternate airstrip to ensure I wouldn’t miss any connection.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression When traveling to remote locations it is a rare experience for me to reach a place where everything is unerringly right. Xudum Okavango Delta Lodge was such a place. Built deep within a 62,000 acre (25,000 hectare) wildlife concession, Xudum appeared like a remote Eden when I first approached it from the water. The peaks of its impeccably thatched roofs peered among the treetops of a lush riverine forest at the edge of a lagoon carpeted with water lilies in full bloom. The tri-leveled main lodge was designed to showcase the endless vistas of reed and papyrus beds of the southern Delta, made all the more striking by the witty blend of sophisticated luxury and whimsy of the stylish contemporary décor. Sectional sofas mingled with local craft and, introducing the property’s recycling theme, tire swings and sculptural end tables that turned out to be made of soda cans. I immediately coveted the Xudum kitchen with its battery of professional cooktops and ovens, its tall wine refrigerator and the latest in kitchen appliances. It even had a gleaming Italian espresso machine and a long granite serving bar with a sweeping view of the Delta!

My own unassumingly labeled “guest suite” turned out to be lovely villa with a private plunge pool large enough to swim in, and an air-conditioned bedroom. Its upper level deck under thatch went from being a superbly comfortable hide during the day to offering optional open-air sleeping quarters at night. I spent an entire siesta time there watching a herd of elephants browsing about the camp before trundling off to a copse of mopane trees at the end of the property.

The staff was consistently gracious and attentive, with everyone’s demeanor unequivocally expressing how happy they were I had come to visit. The attention to the smallest detail was amazing. My wake-up calls came with a carafe of freshly squeezed orange juice. Morning drive coffee was French-pressed. When I walked from my suite to the main lodge shortly after the elephants’ passage, I noticed that the pathways had already been raked clear of any signs of their visit. And after I complimented the chef on the delicious savory herbed shortbread served with cocktails, a copy of the recipe materialized on my desk the next morning.

The quality of the guiding was on par with the hospitality. I had come to Xudum to experience the remote waterways of the Delta and enjoy its bountiful birdlife. My guide Ona Basimani ensured that I did that, from marveling at the expertly woven straw cup of a warbler’s nest threaded between three reeds to repeatedly spotting elusive Pel’s fishing owls. I was pleasantly surprised to find some game as well. In addition to the omnipresent elephants, hippos, and lechwes, I enjoyed sighting the occasional giraffe, and a rarely seen side-striped jackal howling at the moon.

My one regret about Xudum was that I hadn’t planned to stay longer. There were not enough hours in the day, nor days on my itinerary to take full advantage the outstanding offerings of this luxurious property, its superb food and munificent hospitality. I long for an opportunity to return. I have already recommended it for its romantic setting and glorious pampering to friends considering a Southern African honeymoon.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury wilderness lodge

Communications There was no mobile phone service in the area. Short-wave radio was the lodge’s main means of communication. A satellite phone was available for emergencies. For guests with their own laptop, there was good WiFi Internet access in the main lodge.

General Manager Johan van der Merwe and the Lodge Manager is Florence Potgieter

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location In the southern Delta; a 20-minute flight by light airplane from Maun the main gateway into Botswana’s safari areas.

Owned-Managed &Beyond, previously known as Conservation Corporation Africa (CC Africa), with headquarters in Johannesburg, South Africa, owned and managed the property. At the time of this writing &Beyond itself is owned by two major shareholders, Capricorn (the Enthoven family, originally from South Africa) and the Getty Family Trust.

Power The camp had diesel-generated power . The tents had electric lighting and air-conditioning, and sufficient power to charge batteries for cameras, computers and other electronic devices.

Size The 18.5 acre (7.5 hectare) camp consisted of nine guest suites capable of accommodating up to 18 guests. It employed a staff of 35, including four guides and four trackers.

Year Open-Renovated Xudum was built in 2008. It was inaugurated and opened for guests in August 2008.

Lobby And Common Areas The dramatic tri-level main lodge offered a panoramic view of the Delta. It consisted of three spacious lounges, one on each level. On the middle level, a state-of-the-art kitchen faced an open deck with indoor-outdoor dining and seating areas. To the right of the deck, a staircase led up to an upper lounge under thatched roof that doubled as an observation deck and dining area, and to the lower-level lounge and bar. Flooring was dark hardwood throughout. To the left of the central deck, a few steps led down to a campfire pit surrounded with director chairs. The lower-level lounge bar was built into the wood-paneled back wall. Seating was a combination of sectional and straight contemporary tuxedo-style sofas, upholstered in anthracite gray cotton with coordinated toss pillows. The sofas were arranged around a grouping of occasional tables made from an assortment of reclaimed African stools and various metal containers. A modern chrome and green canvas swing armchair teamed up with a tire swing side table, both hanging from a ceiling beam. Credenzas and benches were made of distressed painted wood. Rustic African wood carvings surrounded a contemporary black and white wall-size photograph of the Delta to complete the décor.

On the middle level, seating area was a dark gray wicker and chrome sofa framed by matching armchairs with light brown toss pillows, arranged around a glass-topped coffee table. End tables were constructed of brown-lacquered soda cans. A line of rough-hewn natural wood logs stood against the back of the sofa to serve as a credenza. The dining room was furnished with square tables, their white wooden tops set on various reclaimed bases. Dining chairs were of gray molded resin and chrome. The upper level lounge followed the theme of the lower levels with two gray upholstered sofas facing each other across a distressed white bench coffee table. In a corner, a table with four resin chairs could be used as a writing table or set for intimate dining.

Bathroom Two steps down from the bedroom, the bathroom ran the width of the suite. Its grand proportions (290 square feet or 27 square meters) dwarfed the oversized free-standing bathtub and the open shower with its large recycled tin backsplash. The double-length sink topped by two square wood-framed mirrors and chrome wall sconces with square parchment shades rested against a paneled partition. It separated the bathroom from the water closet with flush toilet, and from a walk-in storage area with clothes-hanging space and shelves. All bathroom fixtures were made of white porcelain. The rear mesh panel of the bathroom slid open onto a large wooden deck with an outdoor shower and plunge pool overlooking the bush.

Room My 1,625 square foot (151 square meter) suite, Number Three, was a two-story structure with terrazzo and thatch roofing and wrap-around veranda. The outer walls were made of mesh screening with brown sliding canvas privacy panels. The floors were dark polished wood covered with gray jute runners and throw rugs. The sliding front door opened onto a long foyer. A wood-paneled partition with a long built-in credenza, topped by a wall-size black and white areal photograph of the Delta flanked by two wall sconces, separated it from the bedroom. On the left, the foyer led into a seating area with a tuxedo sofa upholstered in gray cotton and a polished wood coffee table. Two end tables were glass slabs supported by stacked tires. In the corner, a brown-lacquered metal drum held bar utensils and three black leather boxes filled with snacks. An ice chest covered in black canvas held ice and an assortment of cold drinks. On the right, the foyer opened onto the sleeping area where a king-size bed facing the bush was draped in cappuccino-colored linen. The drapes could be drawn to double as mosquito netting fully enclosing the bed and the two bedside tables topped by sconces that matched those in the foyer. The overhead air conditioning unit was remote-controlled. Bedding was white high-count cotton with brown embroidered trim. A sidewall alcove had a built-in writing desk with a square, wood-framed wall mirror to double as a dressing table and a bench seat.

The rear and side exterior mesh partitions slid open, allowing access to the deck that ran along the rear of the suite and wrapped around the right side of it to form a deep veranda. The veranda was furnished with a large circular sofa made of a gray wicker base and brown canvas upholstered cushions. Near the entrance door to the suite an outdoor staircase led to a second floor thatched deck. At the center of the space, a queen-size platform bed with a thick mattress was covered in brown canvas and a profusion of matching pillows. The deck was surrounded with brown linen draperies that could be drawn for privacy and mosquito protection. A ceiling fan hung from the peak of the ceiling.

Food In the interactive, open kitchen, guests were welcome to step in and take part in food preparation or observe as they wished. The food was worthy of a starred restaurant.

A breakfast buffet was served before the morning game drive. It included cereals, yoghurts, fruit, and freshly baked breads with fruit juices, tea and coffee. Full English breakfast was available on demand. Lunch was served at individual tables, each set with assorted meat dishes and salads, breads and a tray of well-ripened cheeses. Teatime was around 4 PM, prior to departure for afternoon activities. It was a combination of savory snacks and cakes with tea, coffee and juice. The three-course dinner was formally served plated and featured a choice of entrees, usually a choice of meat, game or fish main course, and a vegetarian option. Deserts were decadent offerings such as an excellent, rich but light chocolate mousse or poached fruit on a bed of brandied crème anglaise .

Amenities Xudum offered an exceptional array of amenities. The sitting area had a bottle of house cordial, assorted drinking glasses, an ice bucket filled with ice cubes, stacked boxes filled with cashews, dry mangoes and banana chips, fresh lime on a cutting board with knife. An ice chest held bottled water, soft drinks, white wine and beer. There was a box of tissues and a folder with an assortment of stationary on the desk and an intercom handset for communicating with the main lodge. Upper deck amenities included binoculars, a copy of Birds of Southern Africa (Ian Sinclair, Phil Hockey & Warwick Tarboron), a deck of playing cards and backgammon and scrabble games.

In the bathroom there was a hair-dryer, a generous supply of thick cotton bath and hand towels, washcloths, two each blue and white cotton sarongs, white cotton bathrobes and slippers, and black pool towels. The shower and sink area had face soap, laundry soap, bath soap, pump bottles of body scrub, bath oil, shampoo, conditioner and body moisturizing cream, shower caps, cotton balls and cotton swabs. Votive candles were arranged around the room. The storage closet had an electronic safe large enough to accommodate a laptop computer in addition to smaller valuables. There was mosquito and insect repellent spray, two high-density flashlights, an emergency horn and two golf umbrellas. A wicker tote bag was filled with exercise equipment, including a yoga mat, Pilates elastic ropes, and sets of two and five pound free weights.

All meal, soft drinks and house alcoholic beverages were included, as were all daily game viewing activities, and daily laundry service. Top brand alcoholic beverages such as vintage wines, French champagnes and luxury whiskies where available for an additional charge.

Gift Shop There was a well-stocked gift boutique within the main lodge area. It carried an assortment of chic Xudum-branded safari wear, a variety of souvenirs, mainly local wood carvings, wrought-iron knickknacks, baskets and jewelry, and a few safari-related books.

Spa Although Xudum didn’t have a dedicated spa facility, there was licensed masseuse on staff who offered a range of treatment options, including Swedish and aromatherapy massages in guest suites.

Swimming Pool My suite had a private 6 foot x 14 foot (1.8 meter x 4.25 meter) plunge pool overlooking the bush.

Game Viewing While at Xudum I saw: elephant, hippo, Cape buffalo, giraffe, zebra, lechwe, bushbuck, steenbok and side-striped jackal. Bird sightings included: spurwing goose Pel’s fishing owl, giant eagle owl, African fish eagle, brown snake eagle ground hornbill, great grey shrike, black-bellied korhaan, black-billed buffalo weaver, swallow tail bee eater, southern black tit, black-collared barbet and reed warbler.

Activities In addition to game and bird viewing drives in open land cruisers through the varied landscape of the Delta, the twice-daily activities included river cruises in electrically powered “eco-boats” or mokoros (flat dug-out canoes commonly used to navigate the Okavango waterways) and bush walks through the riverine forest around the camp.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit October 2009

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service Excellent. Every member of the management and staff I met was thoughtful, enthusiastic and eager to please. Attention to details was outstanding. My suite was serviced three times daily.

Overall Impression This was my first experience in the Okavango Delta. I couldn’t have wished for a better introduction to this unique landscape of papyrus-lined channels and water lily-filled lagoons weaving through shady glades and rich savannah grasslands than Nxabega Okavango Tented Camp. Set under a lush canopy of massive ebony trees in a remote 19,800 acre (8,000 hectare) concession, Nxabega (“place of the giraffe” in Basarwa, the language of the river bushmen) was an oasis of elegance and comfort in the heart of the Delta. From the instant the Cessna touched down, it was obvious that a fascinating adventure had begun. Exceptional rains had recently flooded the camp’s own airstrip; we had landed on a nearby, higher ground landing strip, my guide informed me in the course of his warm welcome. We would now drive a few miles to Nxabega; and by the way, a leopard guarding his freshly killed impala had been sighted earlier this morning near our route; would I care to make a short detour to look for it?

A few miles’ drive on the remote bush trails of southern Africa can easily take a couple of hours. Ours did. After a visit with an obviously satiated leopard who warily peered at us gawking at him through the thicket, we stopped for a bird-watching tailgate picnic lunch. Reedbucks scampered and lechwe practiced melting into the reeds. The camp’s namesake, a regal bull giraffe, strutted across our path. Two hours and a few breath-holding channel-crossings over narrow tree-trunk bridges later, elated by this bountiful impromptu game drive, we pulled into the shaded clearing in front of the Nxabega main lodge to the warmest of welcomes from the assembled staff.

The main area, a multi-level platform of burnished teak flooring under a steep thatched roof, was equally welcoming. Within the expansive space, exotic wood paneling delineated several inviting seating areas decorated in stylish, locally crafted furnishing and artworks that gave me an immediate sense of comfort. The lodge opened on two sides onto a large shaded deck with its own seating and dining areas and a sweeping view of the surrounding permanent floodplain and lagoons. I was promptly escorted to my tent. My luggage had preceded me there, giving me ample time to settle in before teatime and the sunset game drive. My tented suite was raised on a high platform, its private open-air deck overlooking the floodplain with its frequent game activity (including a morning wakeup call courtesy of a bull elephant enjoying an early breakfast within inches from my window).

But I soon discovered that superior accommodations and outstanding game viewing were only the beginning. At Nxabega, the magic ingredient was the people! Whether guides and trackers, chefs, butlers, housekeepers or management staff, all exhibited the same high level of training and professionalism and a genuine personal commitment to pampering us. The food was excellent, as was the service. Every activity delivered lovely surprises. A seemingly routine afternoon drive to the nearby mokoro landing (a mokoro is a flat dug-out canoe commonly used to navigate the Okavango waterways) for a sundowners cruise included sightings of a dozing lion and a leopard draped on a horizontal branch high up a tree.

Our return to camp detoured to a clearing where dozens of lanterns were hanging from a giant tree. Under it, tables clad in crisp white linen were formally set with gleaming china and glassware. A full bar sat in a corner. The tantalizing aroma of grilling meat drifted from the opposite side of the clearing, and the entire camp staff was bustling about putting the finishing touches to a sumptuous bush barbecue under the stars. Another night, we were treated to a spirited after-dinner performance of close-harmony choral singing and dancing (I found out later that the Nxabega chorus had recently won the multi-national Sing for Life competition between 44 safari camps from Southern Africa).

With its superb comfort, elegant décor, exquisite hospitality, and some of the best game-viewing I experienced in the Okavango Delta, Nxabega won a very high place on my short list of favorite safari destinations anywhere. To a question from a seat neighbor on the flight home, I heard myself spontaneously answer “if I could visit only one place in the Delta, I would make it Nxabega.”

Class Of Accommodation Luxury tented safari camp

Communications . There was no mobile phone service in the area. Short-wave radio was the lodge’s main means of communication. A satellite phone was available for emergencies. There was WiFi Internet access in the management offices where guests with their own laptop were welcome.

General Manager Dimari Du Plooy and Grant Oliver jointly managed the property. They were on leave at the time of my visit. Management duties were most effectively assumed by Assistant Managers Gioffa Tshipi and Joyce Lethogela.

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location In the southern Delta, west of Chief’s Island; 30-minute flight by light airplane from Maun, the main gateway into Botswana’s safari areas.

Owned-Managed &Beyond, previously known as Conservation Corporation Africa (CC Africa), with headquarters in Johannesburg, South Africa, owned and managed the property. At the time of this writing &Beyond itself is owned by two major shareholders, Capricorn (the Enthoven family, originally from South Africa) and the Getty Family Trust.

Power The camp had diesel-generated power . My tent had electric lighting and sufficient power to charge batteries for cameras, telephones and laptops.

Size The 37 acre (15 hectare) camp consisted of 9 guest tents capable of accommodating up to 21 guests. It employed a staff of 45, including four guides and five trackers.

Year Open-Renovated The camp was purchased by Conservation Corporation Africa in 2000 and fully renovated in 2004. It has been the object of meticulous ongoing maintenance ever since.

Lobby And Common Areas The double door entrance to the main lodge led into the lounge and bar to the left, and dining room to the right. The back wall was of polished mahogany paneling with glass-fronted shelves displaying bush artifacts and a well-stocked built-in bar on the right. A ruggedly elegant style prevailed throughout. The dining room with its large, multi-tiered chandelier could seat up to 18 guests at a long family-style table surrounded by comfortable high-back Parsons-style chairs upholstered in dark brown leather. To the front and far sides of the lodge, several tall French doors opened onto the outdoor dining and seating areas (the doors could be closed in inclement weather). A credenza and floating partition made of framed local etchings on wood separated the dining room from the lounge. The bar and lounge featured several seating arrangements grouped around locally carved coffee tables on leather patchwork rugs. Tuxedo-style sofas and armchairs were a mixture of wooden pieces upholstered in brown and taupe velvet and woven reeds with thick dark beige cotton tweed cushions. Toss pillows were made from local textiles in various shades of tan. Coordinated seating arrangements continued on the side and front decks. The bar area also featured a large modern wood stove.

Bathroom The bathroom occupied the rear quarter of the tent. It maintained the stylish simplicity and comfort of the suite. The oversized dark wood shower backdrop was centered on the back wall. It held a high rain showerhead and a chrome rack with toiletries. The shower area was sufficiently spacious as to make a water protection enclosure unnecessary. It was flanked on the left by a white porcelain flush toilet partially concealed by a large storage armoire. On the right of the shower, the sink was set in a wooden vanity topped by square framed mirror. Chrome and glassed sconces were set in the sides of the frame. A local hand-hewn table held a generous stack of bath and hand towels and washcloths.

Room My 800 square foot (75 square meter) tent, Number Nine, sat on a five-foot high (1.5 meter) wooden platform that included a front deck overlooking the flood plain. It was a haven of understated elegance and comfort. In addition to the immensely comfortable king size bed with its brown leather upholstered headboard and snow white high-count cotton bedding, furnishings were of dark polished wood with clean contemporary lines. They included two bedside tables with tall wooden bases and parchment drum lampshades, a writing desk holding a large, framed mirror and a pewter desk lamp, a high back desk chair, a tall bureau and a luggage rack. By the front door, a small stand held an ice chest stocked with an assortment of soft drinks, beer and bottled water. The floor was covered with taupe jute carpeting and cowhide patchwork throw rugs.

Food The food was excellent, varied, expertly prepared and beautifully presented. A breakfast buffet was served before the morning game drive. It included cereals, yoghurts, fruit, bread and porridge with fruit juices, tea and coffee. Lunch was served at individual tables, each set with assorted meat dishes and salads, freshly baked breads and a tray of well ripened cheeses. Teatime was around 4 PM, prior to departure for afternoon activities. It was usually a combination of savory snacks such as chicken skewers or salmon turnovers with guacamole or salsa-like condiments, and some form of pound cake served with tea, coffee and juice. The three-course dinner alternated between outdoors barbecue evenings and formally served plated meals. And lest we might go hungry, a midmorning refreshment break included homemade cookies, and sundowner drinks came with a variety of spicy goodies.

Amenities Room amenities included an icebox filled with bottled water and a variety of soft drinks, beer and wine. There was a folder with an assortment of stationary on the desk. A tall floor fan had been thoughtfully placed against the wall facing the foot of the bed. It was never needed during my stay.

In the bathroom, there was an electronic safe in the armoire as well as mosquito and insect repellent spray, a high-density flashlight, an emergency horn, a golf umbrella and a hair dryer. In addition to the bath towels, two plush white cotton bathrobes were provided. In the shower and sink area there was face soap, laundry soap, pump bottles of body scrub, shampoo, conditioner and body moisturizing cream. Votive candles were arranged around the room. Meals, soft drinks and alcoholic beverages were included, as were the daily game viewing activities and daily laundry service.

Gift Shop A small cottage a few steps from the main lodge carried a limited assortment of chic Nxabega-branded safari wear as well as souvenirs, mainly wood carvings, antique trinkets, baskets and jewelry.

Swimming Pool The 10 foot x 20 foot (3 meter x 6 meter) pool was surrounded by a wide, tree-shaded deck. Ten lounge chairs with thick natural canvas-covered cushions were lined under large umbrellas and overlooked the floodplain. Pool towels were rolled at the foot of each chair, promptly replaced after use throughout the day. An icebox filled with cold drinks sat in the corner of the deck.

Game Viewing Although the bush was very dense around Nxabega our guide, Maxy Tidimalo, and our eagle-eyed tracker, System, had an uncanny talent for discovering impossibly concealed game, whether a leopard high in a distant thorn acacia, a pair of giant eagle owls huddled in the dense foliage of a tree-top or a frog the size of a lapel pin in a sea of reeds. Their combined talent and eagerness to share information made for an outstanding Delta discovery experience.

Game I saw included: leopard, lion, reedbuck, elephant, giraffe, zebra, tsessebe, kudu, red lechwe, steenbok, chacma baboon, monitor lizard, leopard turtle, painted reed frog. Birds included: red-billed francolin, grey lourie, saddle-billed stork, marabou stork, pink-backed pelican, malachite king fisher, white-browed coucal, giant eagle owl, green-backed heron, brown snake eagle, African darter, grey heron, white egret, wattled crane, spur-winged goose, white-faced whistling duck and fish eagle.

Activities In addition to twice daily game viewing in open land cruisers through the varied landscape of the Delta (a single drive could take us through floodplain, woodland, thicket and savanna) activities included river cruises in an electrically powered “eco boat” or a mokoro and bushwalks through the riverine forest around the camp.

Other Although Nxabega didn’t have a dedicated spa facility, there was licensed masseuse on staff who offered a range of treatment options, including Swedish and aromatherapy massages in the guest tents.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit October 2009

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service Excellent. Every member of the management and staff I met was thoughtful, enthusiastic and eager to please. Attention to details was outstanding. After my butler noticed that I had enjoyed a particular beverage at the bar (a refreshing local sparking hard cider), I found some of it in my tent’s icebox in the evening. The tent was serviced twice daily.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Our first impression of Camp Okavango was colored by the positive comments we had heard from fellow travelers before arriving there. Whenever we mentioned to someone we were headed to Camp Okavango their faces would light up in a smile. They would tell us how much they had enjoyed their stay and send their regards to Rob and Tammy, the Camp managers. We arrived at Camp Okavango following one of the bumpiest bush plane flights we’ve ever had, hot and nauseous not to mention shaky. Rob’s quiet and concerned welcome was priceless. Our introduction to the Camp was beneath the huge mangoosteen tree that was the heart of the one square kilometer island based Camp. Under its shade we enjoyed pleasant moments of contemplation, conversation and excellent bird watching. Thanks to a water feature at the base of the tree many birds congregated and nested there.

Camp Okavango was a wonderful place to relax had we chosen to give up an activity and just sleep in or spend the afternoon luxuriating with a book on the hammock or on a lounge chair by the plunge pool. Animal sounds, especially birdsong, were everywhere and there were plenty of activities to keep us busy. Our first afternoon we went for a motorboat ride among the papyrus and common reeds of the Okavango Delta; the following morning we went for a four hour walk on a nearby island. In the afternoon we went for a fabulous mokoro (type of canoe) ride. We lingered over the sunset colored with rich shades of orange and maroon. Minutes later, we were transported by the full moon rise set against a mauve and pale yellow sky of the Delta. That late afternoon and dusk ride we experienced the magical beauty and serenity of the Okavango Delta that so many before us have described.

We valued the Camp’s atmosphere focused on “birding, peace and tranquility,” the efficient and smiling staff, the option to relax or participate in bird watching and some game viewing on foot or by boat, the close-to-nature yet comfortable tents with teak floors and en suite bathrooms and the luxurious honeymoon suite built to the strict specifications of Jesie Neal, the American woman who established the Camp in 1980. We especially enjoyed table and fireside chats with fellow international guests and spending time and learning from “John” Odumetsi, our guide who grew up and lived most of his life in the area before it was developed into a tourism destination. His upbeat, positive can-do style and passion for the Delta led us discover its many treasures and appreciate what life was like in the not too distant past when it was necessary to travel 14 days by mokoro to reach the nearest town.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury tents and one honeymoon suite

Handicapped Access Although the conditions were not ideal, the Camp had hosted handicapped guests in the past. Enquire directly with the camp for layout and other relevant details.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location In the central Delta on Naxargara Island, about 30 minutes by bush plane from Maun .

Managed Desert & Delta Safaris, a 100 percent subsidiary of Chobe Holdings Ltd.

Managers Rob Van Tonder and Tammy Cronk who took charge of Camp Okavango in February of 2005 shared management duties. Rob looked after guides, activities, maintenance and the grounds while Tammy’s responsibilities included food services, guest relations, housekeeping and finances.

Owned Chobe Holdings Limited owns the leases on the Camp. The current lease expires in 2012 with the option to renew through the tender process. Chobe Holdings Limited, a long established, Botswana public company listed on the Botswana Stock Exchange, owned and operated six luxury safari lodges including this one. All of the lodges were in locations within the northern National Parks and the Okavango Delta. Desert & Delta Safaris also owned a fleet of eight light aircraft, which enabled convenient booking (though bumpy flights) for guests to each lodge with regular connections to Livingstone, Victoria Falls and Maun.

Size The Camp, situated on a three square kilometer island, occupied about one third of the island. It could house 24 guests in 11 tents and one honeymoon suite with a staff of 28 and 3 managers. The leased area is five hectares in size.

Year Opened-Recent Renovation The first building, now the honeymoon suite, was erected in 1980. The Camp opened in 1998. Renovations were ongoing.

Lobby And Common Areas There was a casual and comfortable feel to the furnishings. Seats were cushioned and large enough to accommodate guests of various sizes. There was a blending of classic safari and contemporary African decorative styles. A covered bar and lounge area offered sheltered comfort. During the summer, the large and comfy seats under the mangoosteen tree beckoned us as did the nearby hammock and plunge pool.

Bathrooms The bathroom in our tent was connected to the rest of the tent by a zippered door. Inside, the teak floor was smooth and cool to walk on. A toilet occupied the far left corner next to a “window;” it faced a second “window” and a wicker chair on the opposite corner. There was a sink with separate faucets for hot and cold water and a khaki colored stone tile countertop. The same tile covered the adjacent spacious shower stall which was separated from the sink by a long see-through glass. A towel rack was steps away from the door-less shower.

In the suite, wooden steps led down to the sunken black and white tile bathroom. The walls were of black ceramic tile. There was also a black sink and black toilet bowl. White floors and a mirrored and well lit ceiling softened the look. A claw foot bathtub drew our attention (the water looked brown when we filled the tub to remind us we were in Africa after all) and across from it an there was an enclosed shower stall. A screened window looked out onto a private enclosed area.

Rooms We had an opportunity to experience the two types of accommodations available in the Camp. Our tented suite (No. 8) took up about 30 square meters of space. It was set on teak floors inside a wide zippered tent. Twin beds with double pillows and night tables (including battery operated lamps that remained on even when the generator was switched off at night) were on one side. A desk and companion armless chair occupied the corner nearest the zippered entrance. A dresser and armoire took up the remaining space. The furniture was made of teak and yellowwood. Outside the zippered entrance we had a small open deck with two director’s chairs and a table. It was a pleasant place to spend time during the cooler moments of the day. We appreciated the comfort and closeness to nature the tent afforded us. It was wonderful to hear the bird chatter in the early morning, see the antelope in the distance and quietly watch a naughty bull elephant that chose the middle of the night to feed near our tent.

The 75-square meter thatched roof honeymoon suite was designed to be the home in Africa of a wealthy American woman who first decided to live on the island 25 years before our visit. It was remarkable to think of the time and effort required to build it, especially since almost everything had to be brought by boat (as of this writing trucks cannot reach this part of the Delta). Three steps led to the broad glass door entrance. Inside, there was wood everywhere. Teak floors and yellow stink wood and teak furniture set the backdrop of the room. With the exception of a white wall in the living area, nearly every other wall was of, or covered with, wood. Mirrored tiles accented and brightened the back wall of the bedroom and a small wall behind the dining area.

There was a living area with a gray cloth sofa, a gray patterned armchair and matching large foot stool and a wood coffee table. There were three handsome bird themed watercolors (fish eagle, a giant eagle owl and secretary bird) by S. Santilhano from 1994 and 1995 in the living and dining areas of the suite. To the right on the living area, there was a small dining table and wet bar. To the left, a wide partly open shelf separated the bedroom from the rest of the suite. A double bed, nostalgic looking with the mosquito net at night, occupied the center of the bedroom. A night table and lamp stood to either side of the bed. A small stool rested at the foot of the bed and a green cloth armchair was in a corner. There were oriental style throw rugs in the living area and on either side of the bed. Two slow moving fans gave the room a tropical feel. Although it was very warm in the early evening and darker than we would have liked (we shut the wood shutters to keep the insects out), overall we found the room spacious and comfortable, a wonderful place to spend time between activities and to relax.

Food The Camp’s three chefs had an average of eight years of experience and held hospitality and tourism certificates from the Botswana Technical College. They were able to cater to special requests such as Atkins and gluten and sugar free diets. Having none of those requirements ourselves we enjoyed the full range of meal options. Following are some of the dishes we sampled: yummy custard, tuna and tomato bruschetta for tea; delicately chilled cucumber soup, lamb stew (a favorite), hake fish, roast potatoes, warm carrots, warm sweet peas, green salad, cheese platter selections and cheesecake with strawberry filling for dessert. For breakfast (at 6 a.m.) we had cereal, yogurt, toast, muffin, coffee and tea options. Brunch was served when we returned from our morning activities (around 11 a.m.): made to order eggs, bacon, pork sausage, spinach, green and Waldorf salads, macaroni and cheese, cheese selections and fruit salad. Dinner was served following the evening activities.

Amenities House brand shampoo, soap and body gel. We found two cotton bath robes in our tent. Complimentary bottled water was available on request. There was also filtered water in a thermos pitcher in our tent (we drank plenty of filtered water without any ill effects) and in the honeymoon suite. Additionally, there were bottles of mosquito repellent and bug spray in the tent and suite.

Facilities There was an open area with comfy armchairs near the mangoosteen tree, bar, fireside open area or boma , dining room, dock area, plunge pool and treetop hide which was one of our favorite places in the Camp along with the mangoosteen tree.

Pool There was a 6-square meter (3 x 2) large and 1.5 meter deep plunge pool in the garden. Three wood armchairs, four lounge chairs, one umbrella and ample tree shade invited us to linger every time we walked by.

Game Our guide, “John” Odumetsi knew the island and neighboring areas like the palm of his hand. He led us on foot and boat without hesitation through papyrus channels and open fields to charming finds. With his guidance and unerring senses we stood feet away from three male giraffes while they fed hungrily on acacia leaves. We stood undetected near a large heard of buffalos while they munched, walked and napped through the plain on their way to water. Standing so close to these wild animals was a special treat as they are very shy and don’t usually tolerate humans nearby.

We also saw: kudu, red lechwe, elephant, hippopotamus, bush squirrel, wart hog, vervet monkeys, Nile crocodiles, and reed frog. Birds: blackcollared barbet, bluecheeked, carmine and whitefronted bee-eaters, redeyed bulbul, blackbacked cisticola, reed cormorant, darter, redeyed dove, bateleur eagle, paradise flycatchers, redbilled francolin, helmeted guineafowl, purple heron, redbilled woodhoopoe, African jacana, malachite, pied and woodland kingfishers, black korhaan, grey lourie, Angola pita, blacksmith plover, secretary bird, longtailed shrike, greyheaded sparrow, and redshouldered widow.

Activities Since Camp Okavango lay on an island; the only activities available were bird watching (anywhere in the Camp), motorboat rides along the Delta channel, guided walks on a nearby island which was reached by motorboat, and noiseless mokoro rides along the shallow areas of the water, a memorable experience.

Curio Shop Items we noticed were the locally made baskets and carved miniature mokoros (Botswana canoes), jewelry, t-shirts and books.

Other The Camp ran on generators. This meant at night when the generators were switched off, the only light in our tent and suite came from battery operated bedside lamps.

Check-In-Check-Out A short safety briefing was all that was required to check in

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit November 2005

Reviewers © 2006 Simon and Baker, Inc.

Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Service There was twice daily room service. Staff, some of whom had limited English skills, were pleasant and knowledgeable.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression Problems with the landing strip at the camp we planned to visit caused a change in our travel program and a last minute change of camp to Xigera, pronounced kee-jeh-rah. From the beginning, one of the things that appealed to us at Xigera was the guest diversity. We were the sole Americans among a group of Europeans and Aussies. Our fellow guests there, more even than at other camps, seemed especially eager to chat with everyone else and learn about them and their game viewing experiences. We quickly struck up conversation with several couples and found we especially enjoyed the meal times and social moments at the Camp.

Although the towering and handsome Camp manager explained when we arrived that Xigera was more of a plains game and bird viewing sort of place and that it was unlikely we would spot and predators, we had excellent game viewing experiences. Our guide/driver was determined and diligent driving for three hours one morning on the scent of a leopard until we spotted her and her cub. The sighting was so special the staff radioed each other and brought guests across the property interrupting their various activities (motor boating, walking, mokoro ride) to see them.

While we were observing the mother leopard and her three-month old cub, the cub threw caution to the wind after seeing our vehicle a few feet away and began stalking it. The mother, sitting a few away next to a tree, yawned deeply. Curiosity drove the cub closer and closer until a few minutes later it was crouching next to our tires and staring straight into my eyes. Ready to pounce on my lap it looked at its mom for a signal. By then the mom was bored and hot, napping with one eye open. The cub was too adorable for words and we all continued looking at it, although we were under no illusions of what would happen if the mother leopard felt her cub was in danger. Fortunately, neither was our driver. As soon as he started the engine, the cub retreated in a slight panic and cautiously assumed a nonchalant position a few feet from our vehicle. When we left we asked our guide if our being there had disturbed the leopards; he said, laughing, that if the mother leopard had been in discomfort at any time she would have disappeared without a second glance.

We also were close up and personal with a large heard of elephants who took a middle of the night stroll through our camp. Thanks to the elevated walkways on which most of the camp was raised, we were about 10 feet above the ground in our tents and when we walked about. This meant we were higher than the elephants the morning they came through and we could see them easily while they fed and walked around without much ceremony from one corner of the camp to the other. It was an marvelous experience.

Overall, we enjoyed Xigera’s elevated design, the private setting of our honeymoon tent, the copious quantities of well prepared buffet meals, and our guide’s determination and outstanding tracking ability which led to exceptional game viewing. Our stay at Xigera was memorable.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury raised tented camp

General Managers Wade McKenzie

Handicapped Access While the camp was not designed with handicapped guest needs in mind, disabled guests had stayed there in the past. There was only one step up to the main dining,bar and lounge area which was not too difficult to negotiate and the walkways were wheelchair friendly. In the tents, the restroom design featured a narrow doorway. Guests in wheelchairs had to be carried into boats and vehicles.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location On Paradise Island, in the Moremi Game Reserve in the central region of the Okavango Delta of Botswana and part of the Jao Concession.

Managed Wilderness Safaris

Owned Wilderness Safaris had a significant share in Xigera Camp with local partners, Hennie and Angie Rawlinson. The camp was operated together under Wilderness Safaris policies.

Size There were 10 rooms including two honeymoon suites for a maximum of 20 guests and 50 employees.

Year Established-Renovated Xigera, established in 2000, recently re-did the roof of the main area by patching some spots with new thatch. They built a brand new huge back of house office. The existing front of house office was earmarked for a guest liason office and an education and information center. In the rooms, the outside showers were redone with cement bases, replacing the wooden flooring. The kitchen area was resurfaced.

Lobby And Common Areas The lodge was designed to be environmentally friendly on the ground and from the air. The main area was made of thatch, canvas and wood. The tented units and the entire camp were raised off the ground on saligna decks. The main area was designed to create a sociable “home from home” feeling. From the air, we were told, it had the shape of a seed pod; at the same time as the accommodation units were shaped like fish. The main area had an elegant yet comfortable ambiance. It was populated with overstuffed fabric couches, with wicker, wooden and leather furniture and artifacts including woven baskets from Africa, particularly West Africa. There were several “mini lounges” or comfortable seating areas next to the cozy and rustic.

The center of the dining room, itself an extension of the common area, was occupied by a long, wide wooden and wrought iron table for 24. The “fire deck” in front of the common area had wooden chairs and small mosaic tables where guests could sit outside under the trees or the stars at night. The main area and interiors were designed by a South African interior decorator, Marion Allen and Angie Rawlinson, the lodge owner. Their goals was to make the area tranquil, organic, comfortable, and “with no harsh corners or lines.” Wooden walkways led through and around the “indigenous forest” to the sleeping units.

Just behind the main area there was a rustic “boma” on the ground for traditional African evenings. The poles used for the boma were collected on site and the furniture was built from old tree stumps and branches; metal and canvas directors’ chairs were one of the highlights. There was a canvas and thatch reception area centrally situated behind the main area as well as a curio shop and guest “loo with a view” overlooking a small lagoon.

Bathroom The bathroom facilities were located in the back of the tent. Separate sinks stood in the corner on the left and a vanity was on the right. There was a door-less, though private, water closet (flushing toilet) behind them to the right side. To the left side there was a tiled floor shower and behind it there was an outdoor shower. Both had hot water. The bathroom had a privacy enclosure so passing guests on the walkway could not see the interior.

Room Our honeymoon tent (#7) was one of the furthest removed from the main areas of the camp. Although this meant a long walk on the elevated walkway, it also meant privacy and quiet. Except for the cleaning staff the morning we left, we hardly heard any human sounds while we were in our tent. Beyond the privacy chain, a short length of the walkway led to our tent, a small front porch with a wood table and two canvas chairs; and a view of the plains in the background. Inside, past the glass and wood sliding doors, there was a king bed leaning against a wood headboard and framed by night tables with battery operated lamps on either side. At night, the mosquito net was lowered to cover the entire bed. A coffee and tea service and fan were perched on a wicker chest. It barely alleviated the stifling daytime heat; a luggage rack with a wood and cloth design provided a place for our clothes and housed an electronic safe. Small touches like wood racks for our towels, double sinks and double mirrors, a vanity, a cloth chair, magazine rack and adjacent foot rest made the room homey.

Food Meals were well prepared by local staff and served buffet style.

Amenities Included in the nightly rate were the meals, water, local beverages and laundry service. Also included were shampoo, mosquito repellent, body lotion, shower gel, soap, shower cap, cotton balls and swabs, and sewing kit. The toiletries were biodegradable, non-toxic and eco-friendly. They contained only vegetable products and had not been tested on animals.

Facilities A plunge pool, dining room, lounge, bar, and curio shop (which was undergoing a renovation or refurbishment and looked very large).

Pool The plunge pool was three meters in diameter and approximately 1.2 meters deep. The swimming pool was small and circular, in keeping with the “no harsh lines” directive, and black in color to reduce visibility from the air. Part of the pool deck had wooden chairs and mosaic tables. There were wooden pool loungers, large green canvas patio umbrellas and a “star gazer” wooden chair.

Game Viewing Teco was our guide. During our visit to Xigera we saw the following animals: bushbuck, southern giraffe, impala, kudu, red lechwe, sitatunga, waterbuk, Cape Mountain zebra, warthog, leopard, elephants, chacma baboon, great and slaty egrets, green-backed heron, black-shouldered kite, African fish eagle, crowned lapwing plover, African skimmer, Cape turtle dove, emerald spotted wood-dove, Meyer’s parrot, grey lourie, Senegal coucal, malachite kingfisher, little bee-eater, lilac-breated roller, African grey hornbill, crested barbet, fort-tailed drongo, dark-capped bulbul, zitting cisticola, red-billed oxpecker, red-shouldered widow, and Okavango hinged terrapin.

Activities Options available were morning and after activities: game viewing, walks, sun bathing by the plunge pool, speedboat and mokoro rides.

Curio Shop It was closed for remodeling during our visit.

Other The Camp was built on land leased by the Botswana Department of Wildlife and National Parks and the Tawana Landboard. It offered exclusive use of the area to its guests. The camp used generators for electricity and a septic tank.

Wilderness Safaris received the 2005 U.K. Telegraph Travel Award for Ethical Tourism for the company’s “outstanding work in sustainable safaris, which invest in local communities and ensure the protection of African wildlife.”

Check-In-Check-Out Excellent

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit November 2005

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service There was twice daily room service: Morning cleaning and evening turn down service. At meal times, the staff would serve us drinks, bring and remove dishes and see to anything we needed.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression It required a day of travel and three flights, the last one on a small bush plane, from Cape Town to reach Kwetsani Camp. We left the comfort of our waterfront hotel at 7 a.m and reached our new honeymoon suite at Kwetsani at 7 p.m. Although we were tired and hungry, we were also thrilled from a close viewing with a female leopard on our way from the airstrip to the Camp. Kwetsani could house up to 10 guests on its one kilometre site which was raised on stilts beneath a shady canopy overlooking the plains. It was one of several properties on the Jao Reserve, a 15-year 60,000 hectare concession with maximum guest occupancy of 48. The large elongated island was heavily wooded with palm mangosteen and fig trees and was one of the most remote camps in the expansive Okavango Delta. That night we enjoyed a fireside buffet dinner on the sandy boma enclosure. Prior to dinner, we watched with pleasure as local staff members sang and danced around the roaring fire with enthusiasm and laughter.

Days at Kwetsani were spent game viewing in the early morning and late afternoon. Time in between was spent at meals, chatting with fellow guests, sending off departing guests, reading or pool side. We did our best to remain away from the blistering 40 C (100 F) midday heat. During our stay we went for a half an hour mokoro ride on the river where we appreciated the pristine environment while watching birds, plants and flowers close up. Mekoros were dug out canoes used by the locals for hundreds of years as a means of transportation. The ones we were on were made of fiberglass to preserve the environment and steered by a poler. We enjoyed Kwetsani’s small size, quiet ambiance, welcoming staff, spacious tent with a bush plain view and magnificent bird watching. We look forward to visiting again when the waters are high for a different Kwetsani experience.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury tented camp

General Managers Kerrie Smith and Conrad Enslin, who had years of experience as guides in South Africa.

Handicapped Access It was possible for guests with limited mobility to stay at the camp although there was no wheelchair access.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location Kwetsiani wasin the Jao private reserve to the west of Mombo and the Moremi Game Reserve. It was in the Ngamiland NG25 concession.

Managed Wilderness Safaris

Owned David and Cathy Kays, Ngamailand Adveture Safaris

Size There were five tent rooms on stilts, allowing the camp to accommodate up to 10 guests. There was also a pilot or tour leader tent. A staff of 24 (17 on duty permanently) manned the camp, which occupied one kilometer of land.

Year Opened Established in 1999 with the latest renovations (new honeymoon suite, curio shop and roof) taking place in 2005

Lobby And Common Areas The style was reminiscent of a tree house with classic safari elements and constructed integrating existing trees into the design. The lobby/lounge area was populated by South Africa leather couches and wood furniture hand made on the premises by a New Zealand carpenter. It had Southern Africa thatching. The design was made to have a minimum impact on the area and to able to remove without damage to the concession environment. Nature conservation was a top consideration in the design elements and construction features of the Camp. All refuse was transported out.

Bathroom There were en-suite facilities including a shower, separate flush toilet water closet, twin sinks and an outdoor shower. The door to the water closet had openings in the shape of carved animals.

Room Our 35 square meter honeymoon suite (room No. 6) had an en suite bathroom and a wonderful view of the plain bush. It was built on stilts under a thatched roof at the end of one of the walkways. Since it was completed shortly before our arrival, we were among the first guests to stay there. In front of the tent there was a 100 square foot open terrace facing the plains with an armchair and a small wood table allowing a guest to plain or stargaze. We took advantage of the outdoor shower, with a privacy wall to one side, on more than one occasion. We noticed attractive Seligna wood floors and glass doors, an unusual feature in a tented room and one we first encountered at Kwetsani. The rest of the room’s windows were covered with screens, allowing the light to pass through and permeate the tent with sunshine.

In the center of the suite there was a king bed with a night table and lamp on each side. Above the bed there was a wood frame from which a large mosquito net hung, tied during the day and open in the evening. Behind the bed, there was a long wood and metal headboard and table. In front of the bed and to each side there was a wicker chair with thick khaki striped cushions and a wood table. There was a coffee service on a side table. Two doorless built-on closets, one on each side of the sinks, provided storage space. The closet to left had hanging space and another closet on the right had shelves.

Food All drinks were included in the nightly tariff, with the exception of premium wines and champagne, and premium liqueurs and spirits. On our first night at Kwetsani there was a buffet dinner by the fire. In the early morning (around 5:30 a.m.), before the game drive, we had coffee and tea, yogurt, wheat porridge and a fruit bowl. Brunch was around 10:30 a.m. when we returned from the game drive. It consisted of a hot sautéed vegetable dish in a light cream sauce, cottage pie, garden, carrot salad, eggs made to order and cheese and fruit platter options. There was a buffet dinner that night with chicken cordon bleu, steamed vegetables, salads and cheeses to choose from. The staff served the calamari appetizer and cheesecake desserts individually. Other meals were similar in quantity and quality to these.

Amenities There were complimentary toiletries including soap, shampoo, insect repellent, body lotion, and sunscreen lotion. All local beverages and meals were included in the nightly rate.

Facilities The following area were available for guest use: lounge, bar, dining area, curio shop and a plunge pool.

Pool The pool was 4.9 meters by 2.5 meters large about 4-foot deep. Two large umbrellas provided shade to three cushioned and adjustable wood lounge chairs.

Game Viewing The Camp vehicles were especially comfortable with cushy individual seats instead of the standard one seat for three arrangement. They were open on the sides and had a canvas roof, which we were thankful for under the stifling sun. Vundi, our guide, drove the 4 x 4 game viewing vehicle; pointed out game and birds and shared interesting information with our group of six travelers during the drives. Plains game was plentiful. We saw lots of them including zebra, blue wildebeest, red lechwe, tsessebe, and impala. We also saw chacma baboon, elephant, Nile monitor and leopard. Birds were abundant and diverse: reed cormorant, coppery tailed coucal, wattled crane, African darter, African fish eagle, great white and slaty egrets, spur winged goose, quacco heron, African jacana, pied kingfisher, pink throughted longclaw, giant eagle owl, blacksmith plover, Burchell’s starling, and open billed and saddle billed storks. During our mokoro ride we noted common water reeds, papyrus reeds and water lilies.

Activities There were mekoro rides, walks, and game drives available for guests.

Curio Shop There were various souvenir options including branded Kwetsani clothing, Central African masks, baskets, beaded jewelry from South Africa and shell jewelry from Kenya, a broad selection of Africa flora and fauna titles.

Other The only access to the area was by plane. The airfield was about 45 minutes from camp. During the height of the Okavango’s floods (from May to September approximately) access was usually only by boat from the Jao airstrip. During the remainder of the year it was possible to drive to camp. Complimentary daily laundry service was available although underwear was not washed due to local customs. Flying time to and from Maun was 35 minutes; to and from Kasane it was one hour and 25 minutes and from Kasane to Victoria Falls 20 minutes. The Jao airstrip was about 35 minutes from Kwetsani by drive or boat trip. Airstrip co-ordinates were S19.18.59, E022.35.20 and 1100 meters. The airstrip was licensed for aircraft up to 5700kg MAUW (maximum al up weight), and could take King Airs (all types).

There were mandatory evening escorts to get around from the main building through the elevated walkway to the rooms. Tap water was potable although they recommended bottled water for guests. There were electric outlets in our room and in the lobby. This made it possible for us to recharge our batteries and use electrical equipment. High energy items like blow dryers were disallowed.

Check-In-Check-Out Excellent. After signing an indemnity form we were shown to our room.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit November 2005

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Service There was twice daily service, cleaning in the morning and turn down service at night. We mistakenly left a 20 rand note in a pair of pants we sent to the laundry and during lunch Kerrie brought it to the table. We turned in our laundry before heading off on the morning game drive; when we returned from dinner, it was awaiting us clean and neatly folded.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression Set in a remote concession adjacent to the Okavango Delta, Kwara offered all the creature comforts and wonderful game viewing opportunities. Its reputation for leopard sightings was reinforced during out stay. We were able to see lots of game and birds during our drives and river boat ride. We found the camp well run and inviting in spite of the wilderness setting. The staff were welcoming, the food good and the game viewing excellent.

Class Of Accommodation Wilderness safari amp

General Manager Clive Moffett and Louise Coetzee

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location North of the Moremi Game Reserve in the Okavango Delta in Botswana

Owned Kwando Safaris (John Mynhardt)

Size Eight tents and 16 guests on a 175,000 hectare (175,000 kms2; 1750 m2) concession. A staff of 24.

Year Opened-Renovated 1998; rebuilt 2001

Lobby And Common Areas : Classic Africa themed lounge, dining room and gift shop

Bathroom : Our bathroom area, under the same tent but separated by a flap of zippered canvas for privacy, was great. It included his and hers sinks, a regular toilet, and an outdoor shower (the shower itself had a covered area over it). We took advantage of the warm afternoons to shower since the early morning and evening were a bit too chilly, especially out doors.

Tent Our accommodations were in a spacious permanent tent for two with beautiful and sturdy Rhodesian teak wood floors (450 ft2). Furniture included: Two double beds together to make a king sized bed with a night table on each side and a back board behind both; a small sundry table; a furniture rack; a small hanging clothes closet and an adjacent bathroom.

Food During lunch and dinner guests and senior camp staff sat together at a long table. All meals were fixed menu. Guests served themselves their choice of main course items; staff served drinks and picked up plates and cutlery. Little time passed before someone checked on us during the meal. During breakfast, guests were offered made-to-order hot meals, including sausage, bacon, tomatoes, mushrooms, beans and eggs. A biscuit and hot beverage was served before early morning drives. Sundowner beverages and snacks were served during the evening activities. We especially enjoyed the home made biscuits and breads.

We enjoyed our meals at Kwara and appreciated the effort they required, especially when considering the remote location, basic supply limitations and diversity of guests. Cold buffet breakfast options included: Fresh fruit such as apple, grapes, bananas, and kiwi; two kinds of yogurt, five cereal options; cold meats; cheeses, toasts, and muffins. Lunch dishes included: Greek salad with home made dressing or oil and vinegar; vegetable quiche; beat and potato salad and a cheese tray with three kinds of cheese and crackers.

A sample dinner included: White asparagus appetizer followed by couscous; beef stew; cooked carrots, cauliflower, and spinach served separately. A well received chocolate mousse, coffee and tea followed the meal.

Amenities Kwando toiletries including bath and shower gel, shower caps, body lotion, and shampoo. Mosquito repellent coils and sprays were available in our room and on the game drive vehicles.

Facilities Curio shop, plunge pool, lounge/bar, fire place area, and game viewing area

Pool Plunge pool. It was too cold to take advantage of it during our winter visit.

Game Viewing Birds: Crested barbet, dwarf bittern, reed cormorant, Senegal coucal, wattled crane, darter, laughing dove, mourning dove, great white and little egrets, Egyptian geese, helmeted guinea fowl, grey heron, rufousbellied heron, redbilled hornbill, sacred ibis, African jacana, blackshouldered kite, grey lourie, Meyer’s parrot, grassveld pipit, blacksmith and crowned plovers, lilacbreasted roller, longtailed shrike, Burchell’s starling, saddlebilled and yellowbilled storks. Mammals: South African lesser bushbaby, chacma baboon, springhare, spotted and sidestriped hyenas, leopard, lions, giraffe, impala, tsessebe, and wildebeest. And a painted reed frog herd.

Activities Dawn and dusk game viewing drives; river boat rides; mekoro (dug out canoe) rides; and bush walks. We were delighted with our driver/guide Obi and tracker Hobs team. In addition to a smooth drive on and off road, including potentially bumpy sandy roads, their combined skills and finesse allowed us ingress and egress to small corners for maximum game viewing efficiency. It also allowed us to approach skittish animals for extended viewing in some tricky spots. One such example was a two lion viewing in a location so difficult to reach that another vehicle after us got stuck and we had to return to assist them.

Conference Facilities No

Other All meals, beverages and alcoholic drinks were included. The area within the camp was sandy. This meant walking from our tent to the lounge or dining area was like walking on a beach. Comfortable shoes were a must.

Check-In-Check-Out Process Ease Excellent

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit May 2004

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Chester Godsy and Joni Johnson-Godsy

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Service From senior to junior staff we found the service to be warm, efficient and accommodating. Small details like our request for a hot water bottle to warm our beds at night or repeated requests to photograph flora and fauna during a game drive were met with patience and a helpful attitude. We especially liked that our guide and tracker team were assigned to us for the duration of our stay. They accompanied us on every game viewing ride and Obi, our assigned guide dined with us and the rest of the guests and their guides. This meant we had a chance to get to know each other and exchange impressions during our stay. The extra time together allowed our Kwara team to understand our interests and top priorities, which made our visit more effective and fun.