Overall Impression When we visited the Chobe Game Reserve in Botswana, as part of a Desert & Delta Safaris itinerary, we stayed at the Savute Safari Lodge. Since it was our second visit to the property in a decade we noticed significant differences in the property itself, the reserve and the general game viewing conditions. As on our previous visit, we liked the Savute Safari Lodge’s game viewing opportunities as well as its luxury spacious waterhole facing rooms. Thanks to the comfort oriented and stylish design of the glass and thatch tents and their waterhole views they were our favorite rooms during that six property circuit in Botswana and Namibia.

Dry conditions at the time of our visit meant animals from near and far walked to the manmade waterholes in front of our property, providing excellent game viewing opportunities within the camp. In addition, the wild animals were surprisingly relaxed. Such was the appeal of the rooms that but for the sweltering summer heat we might have been tempted to forgo the game drives to remain in our rooms and enjoy the view of the wildlife that strolled by in search of water.

The property was named Savute for the unpredictable character of the channel that passed through its midst. In the past, it had suddenly dried up for years, and for no apparent reason flowed again years later. In the time since our previous visit to the lodge the rooms had been gussied up and were even prettier than we remembered. The river, dry during our stay, had flowed for a while before our return, drawing regional and international visitors, and prompting the establishment of new properties. That was reflected in crowded conditions within the park. Every encounter meant multiple vehicles and brief sightings to make room for those awaiting their opportunity. It also resulted in shared sun downer locations where several vehicles parked adjacent to each other. Such conditions, something we had not experienced before in Botswana, reminded us of a theme park ambiance rather than the remoteness we longed for in our travels to the Botswana bush.

It was uncomfortably hot with hardly any respite for the entire duration of our stay. Daytime temperatures reached 45 Celsius (113 Fahrenheit). The property relied on daytime generator power as its sole source of energy, and was not equipped for the intense heatwave that blanketed the region. Although a dip in the pool was cooling there was limited shade in the pool deck and nowhere else that was less hot. Sitting in the over heated tents, which remained closed most of the day, was almost as unpleasant as sitting outdoors.

We enjoyed good game viewing sightings of three of the Big Five while at the property. In addition to the rooms, we liked the cooling pool, the best place to spend the mid afternoon hours when the heat peaked. We looked forward to the tasty food at meal times when we shared tables with fellow travelers from our vehicles as well as other property guests. We might return to Savute Safari Lodge in a cooler shoulder season in search of quality game viewing and fewer crowds.

Children Families with children six and older were welcome. They rode in game viewing vehicles and participated in activities with other guests. The property usually requested that they book private vehicles, according to a representative. During our stay, there was a large family with three boisterous small children. They ran screaming along the pathways and in the common areas, including at meal times when they played on the platform railing.

Class of Accommodation Luxury Tents

General Manager Bruce Petty. During our visit Kenny, Onka, Taz, and Unami shared management duties.

Handicapped Access The lodge welcomed handicapped guests. A representative explained that guests in wheelchairs would be able to move around rooms and pathways that were wheelchair friendly.

Length of Stay Three nights

Location The concession was in the southwestern corner of the Chobe Game Reserve. We flew in via a bush charter flight from the previous Desert & Delta Safaris property in our circuit. Our guide picked us up at the airstrip and drove us to the property with other guests from our flight.

Managed Desert & Delta Safaris

Owned Chobe Holdings Limited. As of August 2015, the directors of Chobe Holdings Limited, a company incorporated in Botswana, were P. M. Van Riet-Lowe, chairman, J. M. Gibson, deputy chairman and chief executive officer, J. A. Bescoby, A. D. Chilisa, B. D. Flatt, R. Gerrard , K. Ledimo, J.M. Nganunu-Macharia, D. S. Ter Haar, and A. M. Whitehouse.

Size The five hectare property had 12 rooms, 37 employees, including six guides, and five safari vehicles

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation The property opened in 1999. Between 2008 and 2009 the entire lodge was renovated.

Lobby and Common Areas The property was decorated in a contemporary safari style. In the main building, there was a partially open computer room above the bar with a shelf that housed a dozen or two fiction books and a handful of board games. There was also a bar and sitting area, a curio shop, the staff office and a dining room where we had breakfast each morning. A short pathway from the main building led to a deck with a waterhole facing dining area and next to it a swimming pool. One of the most attractive features of the property was the sandy bush area it faced and its night lit man made water holes that drew animals, especially elephants from afar during the dry season.

Bathrooms A wood door lead from the living area into the bathroom. A toilet took up the corner next to a Corian base and ceramic sink with dual hot and cold water faucets beneath a wood framed rectangular mirror. The walls were tiled in white. The doorless shower enclosure was half glass and half wall with a deck and bush view.

Rooms I loved the rooms, especially the expansive views and deck looking out onto the waterholes. We stayed in 7.8 meter by 4.85 meter large Luxury Tents, Room 8 and Room 6, facing the waterholes. Our rooms were on opposite sides of the pool and partly open dining area where we had lunch and dinner. The predominant decorative elements were glass and thatch.

I stayed in Room 8 and my travel partner stayed in Room 6. The rooms were identical in most respects except for their location within the camp and their layout. The layout of Room 8 was a mirror image of the one for Room 6. Room 6 was the first room to the right of the main building whereas Room 8 was the second room to the left. There was a waterhole immediately in front of Room 6 so that room had outstanding direct views of the waterhole. There was a waterhole to the right of Room 8, allowing partial side views of the waterhole. Those seemed to be among the best locations in the lodge.

The second pathway from the main building lead down to my room. The pathway was uneven and at an incline requiring attention to avoid tripping. At the end of the pathway, several wood steps lead onto a wooden deck that wrapped around part of the front of the room. Triple sets of sliding glass doors faced the interior of the room. The first set opened into the sleeping area, the second into the living area and the third into the bathroom. The room had a high thatched roof and ceiling and wood floors throughout. Earth tone curtains hung over the sliding glass doors for privacy. Two sides of the room had dark brown wooden shutters. The walls had khaki textured wallpaper. Tiny bits of thatch from the ceiling fell onto the white duvet and sheets as well as on the Corian sink basin in the bathroom.

The only way to adjust the temperature was to open and close the windows and shutters and turn the fans on or off (when the generator was operating). Lighting came from battery-operated lamps and generator operated track lights. From my room I could hear the sounds of animals by the waterholes, such as the elephants trumpeting and the hyena, as well as other guests and staff around the property, especially if the fans were off.

A double bed with a wood frame, set against a half wall and sandwiched between twin glass topped designer night tables, occupied the left side of the room. Each of the night tables housed battery operated nightlights. A rectangular framed mirror hung on the wall behind the bed. A three blade fan hung from the ceiling above the bed. A mosquito net on a square wood frame hung from the ceiling also above the bed. The staff spread the mosquito netting around the bed at night. Twin khaki stools stood at the foot of the bed, serving as a luggage rack or stools. An upright fan stood in the right corner facing the bed.

Comfortable cushioned rattan armchairs took up the center of the living area facing a khaki cloth coffee table. They stood atop a black-and-white rectangular rug. A wood table and cloth armchair took up the corner next to the shutters and the sliding glass doors. An identical armchair took up the rear of the living area. A decorative lamp hung above the living room furniture. There were two wood closets painted black against the living area wall. A lock box, two umbrellas, an emergency horn, mosquito repellent, insect spray, a flashlight, and hot beverage ingredients were inside as well as hanging and shelf space.

The layout of my travel partner’s tent was reversed from mine so that the first area he reached from the pathway was the bathroom. Because the curtains were open most of the time if anyone walked onto the deck they risked a full view of the bathroom. On the plus side it meant Room 8 had a wonderful view of the waterhole from the bathroom. While my bathroom was further away from the waterhole it also had a view.

Food Meals, served buffet style, were at the same times every day. Breakfast was between 6 a.m. and 6:30 a.m., immediately before the morning activity. Brunch was immediately following the morning activity. Tea was between 3:30 p.m. and 4 p.m., immediately before the afternoon activity and dinner was at 8 p.m. Staff banged on a drum before each meal to inform us that the buffet was served and the staff were ready for us. Before dinner, several of the staff lined up, introduced themselves and described the menu for the evening. The property management worked toward serving fresh ingredients and a range of traditional and game dishes. We looked forward to meal times.

Amenities A handheld vanity mirror, cotton bathrobes, Charlotte Rhys shower caps, conditioning shampoo, shower gel, and body lotion in refillable plastic containers. There was mosquito repellent and rain ponchos in the vehicles, according to a property representative.

Facilities Pool, boma (outdoor dining enclosure), and main building with library, dining room, internet room, and bar lounge. A curio shop was adjacent to the main building.

Pool There was a gray bottomed pool on its own deck adjacent to the waterhole deck area where we had brunch and dinner. The outdoor pool was 1.5 meters deep and about 7 square meters large. The water clarity was very good. There were six cushioned lounge chairs, two large khaki canvas umbrellas, and towels in a wooden box.

Shop The curio shop sold postcards, branded fleece, women’s t-shirts, Botswana and South African bead, leather, gold plated and pewter jewelry, and sundry souvenirs ranging in price from 7.50 pula to 749 pula.

Game Viewing Gwist, our guide and driver, had nine years of experience as a guide. Game drives were on a Toyota LandCruiser with a canvas top and seating for eight in the back and one next to the driver in the front. The configuration was two in the front row and three each in the other two rows, which were slightly higher than the first row. The front and last rows had an opening on one side of the vehicle with a half step that facilitated climbing on and off. On our first two game drives there were four of us. During the remaining four game drives there were six guests. Because the park closed at sunset we had to depart immediately after our sun downer stop, heading back to the exit at a quick clip in the dimming light before the sun set completely.

During our stay we saw the following animals: buffalo, caracal, African wild cat, elephant, giraffe, hippopotamus, scrub hare, spotted hyena, impala, kudu, lion, dwarf mongoose, slender mongoose, roan antelope, tree squirrel, tsessebe, warthog, wildebeest, and zebra.

And saw or heard the following birds: crested barbet, kori bustard, Denham’s bustard, Senegal coucal, African mourning dove, red-eyed dove, fork-tailed drongo, tawny eagle, Egyptian goose, crested guineafowl, helmeted guineafowl, pallid harrier, red-billed hornbill, yellow-billed kite, northern-black korhaan, red-crested korhaan, blacksmith lapwing, red-billed oxpecker, red-billed quelea, lilac-breasted roller, purple roller, double-banded sandgrouse, common sandpiper, secretarybird, magpie shrike, southern grey-headed sparrow, chestnut-backed sparrowlark, red-billed spurfowl, Burchell’s starling, Meve’s starling, spotted thick-knee, Cape turtle-dove, shaft-tailed whydah.

We saw the following flora: baobab and common wild fig.

Activities The only activities available where twice daily game drives on very bumpy sand roads. In the morning, wake up time was at 5:30 a.m. At 6 a.m., our guide would escort us from our rooms to the dining room in the main building. We departed between 6:30 a.m. and 7 a.m., returning at about 10:30 to 11 a.m. In the afternoon, we departed at between 4 p.m. and 4:15 p.m., returning between 6:30 p.m. and 7 p.m. Viewing and photography time at each sighting was brief, often less than a minute, with the exception of elephants and lions. At those sightings we encountered as many as 11 vehicles at times, each angling for a view of the animals. More than once another vehicle blocked us or someone else in our own vehicle blocked our review. Due to the brief viewing time there were no second opportunities for viewing or photos. Our guide was focused on locating predators and large game such as elephants.

In case of rain during a drive the guide assessed the intensity of the rainfall to decide whether to continue or not. According to a spokesperson it was quite rare for an activity to be called off because of rain.

Other Water for the property was sourced from a well. Although we liked the conservation minded concept behind the refillable non thermos metallic bottles the staff provided us on arrival at a previous Desert & Delta Safaris property, in practice the idea did not work well. Our gravest complaint was that the water chilled from the cooler became warm within minutes. Also, carrying the bottles from our rooms to refill them in the main building was inconvenient, especially during the rest period between activities when it was hot and uncomfortable everywhere and we sought water to lower our body temperature and quench our thirst and after sundown when we could only walk around with a staff escort. Refilling our bottles also required queuing up at the single water cooler when everyone was preparing for departure.

The property ran on generator power. Usually, it was on between 5 a.m. and the time the last guest retired. That meant the fans and regular lights stopped when the generator was off. There were battery operated lights for the evening. As part of the turn down service the staff closed the sliding glass doors in the room. Due to the lack of ventilation the temperature rose, especially on a hot day when the sun beat on my room all the afternoon. When I asked why they closed the sliding glass doors at night even though it made the room hotter the staff member explained that there was a danger that a predator, such as a leopard or a hyena, might venture into the room and mosquito screens would be no obstacle. One night during our stay staff kept the generator running all night so that the fans in our rooms would work. It was a welcome respite from the sweltering heat.

The lodge had received a Trip Advisor 2015 Certificate of Excellence. In the past, the lodge had been eco-certified by Botswana Tourism Organisation.

Cleanliness Very good

Date of Last Visit November 2015

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Staff, especially management staff, were welcoming and efficient. My room was serviced twice per day, in the morning during our game drives someone made up the bed and picked up the laundry. In the afternoon, while we were on the game drive, someone delivered the laundry, brought departure papers and prepared the bed with mosquito netting. My cleaning lady was Ineeleng.

Connectivity There was no cell phone service within the property. There was one computer shared by all guests in the main building. It had slow internet connectivity (one megabyte, 1-100 kilobytes per second).

Would You Stay Again? Maybe in a cool season

Overall Impression The most memorable aspects of Xugana Island Lodge, a small luxury camp in an island on the northern edge of the Moremi Game Reserve in Botswana’s famous Okavango Delta, were the water setting and abundance of colorful birds. In the tree canopy above and around the main area there was a variety of birds, including the ever difficult to photograph paradise flycatchers. We liked the quiet setting, pleasant boat rides, and the sense of remoteness of the camp.

The X in Xugana was pronounced with a click or like a K. The property name was derived from the bushmen, the original inhabitants of the area, word for warthogs. Seeing unfamiliar animals in the water (hippos) they mistook them for warthogs, which were familiar to them, and called the lagoon Xugana.

It was uncomfortably hot with hardly any respite for the entire duration of our stay. The property, which relied on daytime generator power as its sole source of energy, was not equipped for the intense heat wave that blanketed the region driving daytime temperatures to 45 Celsius (113 Fahrenheit). While a dip in the pool was somewhat cooling there was limited shade in the pool deck and nowhere else that was less hot. Sitting in the over heated tents, which were shut most of the day, was unpleasant. Likewise outdoor seating was debilitating.

The Xugana Lagoon facing property was on a private concession. According to the folder in my room the lodge was the second to be built in Botswana. While at the lodge we saw red lechwe and caught a glimpse of sitatunga, antelopes not present in other places in our itinerary. The waterscapes, water settings and sunset views of the Okavango Delta, spacious common area deck with lagoon views, friendly management staff, buffet meals, and birding opportunities made the visit worthwhile. We also appreciated the well appointed (if very hot) luxury tents, curio shop, computer with slow internet connection for guest use, and refreshing outdoor pool. We would return in a cooler season. We recommend Xugana Island Lodge to our friends who enjoy lush unspoiled waterscapes, sparse game viewing, and excellent birding while staying at an intimate comfort oriented remote safari camp in the Okavango Delta.

Children Although there were only adults during our visit, the property welcomed children six and older. A spokesperson indicated families usually book a private boat.

Class of Accommodation Luxury Tented Camp

Connectivity There was no cell phone service. There was a one computer for shared guest use in the library with slow (a megabyte, 1-100 kilobytes per second) internet connection.

General Manager Bruce Petty. Four individuals shared management duties while we were there: Julia, Fred, Frank and IT.

Handicapped Access According to a company spokesperson handicapped guests were welcome subject to the following clarification, the property was quite challenging for those on wheel chairs because the there were no wheelchair friendly rooms and pathways, and the activities offered there (boat cruises, mokoro and walking safaris) did not favor people in a wheelchair.

Length of Stay Three nights

Location In a private concession facing Xugana Lagoon near the northern Moremi Game Reserve in Botswana’s Okavango Delta. From the landing strip, it was a 15 minute boat ride to the camp.

Owned and Managed Desert & Delta Safaris, which was owned by Chobe Holdings Limited, owned the lodge. As of August 2015, the directors of Chobe Holdings Limited, a company incorporated in Botswana, were P. M. Van Riet-Lowe, chairman, J. M. Gibson, deputy chairman and chief executive officer, J. A. Bescoby, A. D. Chilisa, B. D. Flatt, R. Gerrard , K. Ledimo, J.M. Nganunu-Macharia, D. S. Ter Haar, and A. M. Whitehouse.

Size The five hectare camp with eight Luxury Tents was in a private concession. There were 29 employees, including five guides, and three boats for water activities.

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation In 1970, Harry Selby built the lodge, one of the first to cater to overseas photographic safaris. In 2000, Desert and Delta Safaris bought the lodge immediately after its old owners had fully renovated it.

Lobby and Common Areas We flew to a landing strip about 15 minutes away by boat from the island lodge. Our guide and one of his colleagues picked us up from the landing strip. After introducing himself he carried our luggage and led us to a metal motorboat with a canvas top. From there we motored to the island. It was an easy one step climb from the boat to the deck. At the camp dock, Julia and IT, co-managers, welcomed us with warm moist scented towels. After we signed the usual indemnity waivers, Julia shared safety precautions, described the camp activities, and layout before we sat down to brunch the camp’s main shady waterside deck. Beautiful paradise flycatchers and other colorful birds flew above us in the tree canopy that provided shade to the deck.

In addition to the water facing deck, the main building was open and housed a buffet section, interior seating area, curio shop, and bar. Common area his and hers bathrooms were a few steps from the bar in a stand alone structure. In front of the bar there was an open platform that served as a fire pit in evening. Next to it, one level lower, there was a floating platform and tents 1 and 2. Twenty feet back from the buffet section there was a stand-alone building with the managers office. Another 10 or 20 feet behind the office there was a raised wood deck with an outdoor pool deck.

Bathrooms The entrance to the bathroom was via a wood door on the side of my tent. It had wood flooring identical to the rest of the tent. The rear wall was the concrete that divided the two tents. The left wall and the wall facing the sleeping area of the tent were made of painted white wood. There was a large window built into the upper half of the remaining wall. The bottom half was tiled. A doorless shower enclosure was to the right of the entrance. Large off-white tiles covered the shower walls. There was a built-in towel rail on the wall next to the sink. Beneath the sink there were bath towels, hand towels and facecloths. I enjoyed the partial water view and bush view from the shower enclosure. A wood base was home to two ceramic sinks with hot and cold water faucets beneath a large rectangular wood framed mirror. The toilet, to the left, wobbled. The toilet paper roll dispenser malfunctioned, causing the toilet paper to fall to ground. Lighting was from generator. When it was off there were battery operated lamps. Light switches were on a panel outside the bathroom by the door.

Rooms I stayed in Luxury Tent 4 and my travel partner stayed in Luxury Tent 3, neighboring 5 meter by 5 meter tents sharing a common wall and thatched roof. They had identical furnishings and mirror image layouts. To reach our tents we walked down a dirt path a few feet to one side of the shady sitting area of the main deck adjacent to the dock. The location of our tents was particularly convenient. They were comfortable and functional, although there was no lounge chair in which to sit during the midday break. Other than the desk chair the only place to sit was the bed. Although there were folding chairs on the covered porch it became uncomfortably hot once the afternoon sun covered it. My travel partner’s deck was in the shade and cooler than mine.

Our two tents shared a common entryway from the main pathway. They were set at an angle from each other so that we did not hear the noises from one to the other. Tent 3 faced the lagoon and had a bush and water view from the interior and deck. Tent 4 faced the bush and had a lateral partial view of the lagoon. From my tent I could see the steps and deck of Tent 5, about 10 feet away. I could also hear some of the conversation.

The entrance to our tents was via a few wood steps on the side of each tent. They led onto a wood deck with wooden railing. There was a large tree trunk in the middle of my deck. There were two folding canvas chairs on the side of the deck and a floor mat next to the sliding glass doors (with no lock) that lead to the interior. The lack of a lock was worrisome because aggressive baboons, who knew how to open unlocked doors, visited the camp more than once during our stay. A whole troop walked unafraid around our pathway, tent entryway, lawns and pool deck. A male baboon was confrontational and would not depart until a male manager ran him off from the path in front of my tent.

The tent flooring and deck were made of wood. The tent had two wood walls painted white and the remaining two walls were covered with reed. Large rectangular openings covered with mosquito screening on two walls served as windows. The interior of the tent was shady. Sunlight filtered through the sliding glass door and rectangular openings. In addition, there were two lights attached to the wood above one of the rectangular openings as well as two battery operated lamps affixed to the wall above the wood night tables and a lamp on the desk. Twin beds with wooden headboards sat next to each other in the center of the tent. They had white sheets, medium thickness duvets, and four synthetic pillows. A wood frame with mosquito netting tucked to one side hung above the bed. At night, the staff would spread the mosquito netting to surround the beds. There were two rectangular cowhide floor mats, one by each bed. At the foot of the beds there were two trunks. A rolled up blanket was tethered to each one with leather straps, making it impractical to sit on the trunks. Every day when the staff serviced the tent they placed a pretty leaf or flower arrangement on the beds.

To the right of the bed there was a long rectangular wood bench beneath an adjustable canvas shade. I used it as a luggage rack. In the corner, next to the bench and facing the rectangular tent window, there was a wooden table that served as a desk and a cushioned rattan armchair. In an opening on the desk there were two books, one magazine, and the camp folder. Atop the table there was a tissue box, an ash tray and a lamp. An ivory tone curtain could be extended over the sliding glass door for privacy and a minor respite from the afternoon sun and heat.

On the opposite corner from the desk there was a built-in wood wardrobe with hanging and shelf space as well as a lock box, and a drawer at the bottom. Next to the entrance to the bathroom there was a folding table with a wood tray on top. It had a beverage service on the tray, including a hot water pitcher. The sole items of decoration hung on the walls to the right of the bed and above the beverage tray. One was a black-and-white bush photo. The other was a description of the Legends of Ngamiland (the district where the Delta is located) and the pioneers of the area, including the founder of Xugana Island.

Meals Guests and staff dined at a communal table beneath the trees of the main deck. Meals, served at a buffet table, were at the same times every day. They varied slightly depending on the cook. Breakfast was between 6 a.m. and 6:30 a.m., immediately before the morning activity. Brunch was at 11 a.m. immediately following the morning activity. Tea was between 3:30 p.m. and 4 p.m., immediately before the afternoon activity, and dinner with at 8 p.m. Staff banged on a drum before each meal to inform us that the buffet was served and the staff were ready for us. Before dinner, several of the staff lined up, introduced themselves and described the menu for the evening. Our favorite was the description and the meal itself prepared by the bushman cook. She shared it in her native tongue as well as English.

For example, for brunch on our first day there was quiche, red cabbage salad, bobotje (a regional dish), lettuce salad, cheeses, fruit salad and dessert. For dinner our first night there was tasty kudu and chicken (favorites). For dinner on the second night there was lamb with two sauce choices, potato slices in a light cream sauce, rice, salad, and a spicy bean and cabbage dish, Desert was crème brulle (more like a flan)

Amenities Twice daily activities and all meals, excluding beverages, were included in the daily rate as was bottled water from a single cooler in the main building. There were bottles of water in the rooms for us to brush our teeth. In lieu of bottled water to drink, the property provided us with refillable non thermos metallic bottles.

Bathroom toiletries included Charlotte Rhys disposable shower caps, shower gel, body lotion and conditioning shampoo in refillable plastic containers attached to the walls. The staff offered us moist scented washcloths on arrival at the camp and every time we returned from an activity. There were two cotton bath robes, slippers, flashlight, insect repellent, blow dyer, and lock box for valuables. There was complementary laundry. In the main building, there was a shelf with books and a computer with a slow internet connection for guest use.

Facilities There was an outdoor swimming pool. In the main building, there was a curio shop, a floating platform (near tents 1 and 2), a lounge, water facing expansive deck, and bar.

Pool There was an outdoor pool, 5 meters by 7 meters large and 1.5 meters deep, set on a raised wooden platform. In the pool deck, there were five cushioned comfortable lounge chairs and one umbrella. Towels were kept in a wood container on one corner of the deck. There were beverages (soft drinks, bottled water and beer) in a cooler in another corner of the deck. They were slightly cooler than room temperature because there was no ice in the cooler. One afternoon while we were at the pool one of the staff poured ice in the cooler. Thanks to an automated pool sweeper the pool with mostly free of leaves. There were a few dead insects on the surface. The water clarity was excellent. The bottom was slightly slippery. Because the pool itself was in the sun during the midday break between meals it was best to remain under the shade of the umbrella in the summer heat.

Shop There were curios, branded clothing, cotton scarves, books, and two bottles of South African sunblock. Prices ranged between 7.50 pula for a postcard and 540 pula for a zebra necklace.

Game Viewing Our young guide, Kambato “Kam” from the Ngami Lake area, was described by the property as a professional guide with one year of experience. Promise from the Delta panhandle, and Robert also accompanied us on outings. Robert, while quiet, was helpful and excellent at spotting and identifying birds once he noticed our interest.

Because the park closed at sunset we had to depart immediately after our sun downer stop, heading back to the boats and to the property across the river with alacrity in the dimming light before the sun set was complete.

We saw the following animals during boat rides and walks: elephant, hippopotamus, lechwe, leopard, spotted-necked otter, souther reedbuck, sitatunga, warthog and baboons (in the camp). Among the reptiles we saw Nile crocodile, Nile monitor, and painted reed frog.

We saw or heard the following birds: arrow-marked babbler, black-collared barbet, crested barbet, southern carmine bee-eater, white-fronted bee-eater, little bee-eater, coppery-tailed coucal, black crake, African darter, white-faced duck, cattle egret, great egret, little egret, African fish-eagle, spur-winged goose, black heron, grey heron, ruffus-bellied heron, squacco heron, African hoopoe, African sacred ibis, hadeda ibis, African jacana, lesser jacana, malachite kingfisher, pied kingfisher, woodland kingfisher, blacksmith lapwing, long-toed lapwing, common moorhen, black-crowned night-heron, African open-bill, African paradise-flycatcher, African pygmy-goose, white-browed robin-chat, lilac-breasted roller, black-winged stilt, African stonechat, woolly-necked stork, yellow-billed stork, lesser-striped swallow, water thick-knee, golden weaver, and white-winged widowbird.

Plants we saw: common wild fig, leadwood tree, marula tree, mangoosteen, and blue water lily.

Activities There were three main types of activities on offer: short fiberglass mokoro (canoe) rides to illustrate how the locals used to travel the waterways before motorboats became ubiquitous, motorboat rides, and guided walks. We went on one mokoro ride. The rest of the time we spent on boat rides and walks. The walks were challenging because of the summer heat and provided very limited game and bird viewing.

It was also possible to fish for bream and catfish. The latter were known to grow up to 1.4 meters in size. Before our first activity and when there were new arrivals, our guide explained what we would be doing and shared safety guidelines such avoiding swimming in the Delta, not standing up while the boat was moving and never dangling limbs in the water. In case of rain during a boat ride or walk the policy was for the guide to assesses the intensity of the rainfall to decide whether to continue. According to a representative, it was rare for an activity to be called off because of rain. The property had Yamaha 6 meter four stroke boats with a maximum occupancy of eight guests.

There was space on the boats for nine guests. Our boat had a canvas cover which provided partial shade to some of the guests some of the time. We sat on plastic chairs affixed to the boat. There were blankets and life vests on the seats. We used them to cushion the plastic seats. Our primary guide stood at the back driving the boat and our secondary guide sat near him or among us. The boat rides were either speeding through the deep water sections or slow going along the shallow and narrow canals. There was thick underwater foliage in places and sometimes there were hippos hidden beneath the surface. At least once our motor overheated and we had to wait for it to cool down before we could continue on our way back to camp.

The afternoon of our arrival we went on a mokoro ride. Six of us rode with our guides to the landing strip where the canoes were kept. On the way there we stopped a couple of times to observe a crocodile or photograph a flower. During one of the stops, our guide plucked seven water lilies with their stems out of the water and showed us how the inhabitants of the area used to make highly prized water lily necklaces. We were one or two per canoe with a guide who did the poling on very shallow water. From the departure point we went a short distance to get a feel for how local people used to travel along the Okavango Delta. On our return, we watched the sunset while drinking sundowners on the edge of the landing strip before returning to camp at about 6:45 p.m.

The following morning the same six of us left at about 6:45 a.m., heading off on the motorboat to Palm Island, where we walked almost continuously until just after 10 a.m. when we boarded the motorboat to return to camp. Along the way we saw antelope, including a relaxed reedbuck closeup, elephant from several miles away, and warthog. Our guide identified a handful of birds. From a distance, we also saw (the best view was with binoculars) a leopard walking among a herd of red lechwe antelope. We walked at a fast pace over uneven ground to where we had seen the leopard. As soon as it saw us it fled, allowing us a fleeting glimpse as it ran into the bush. It was a clear hot day and the walking wore most of us out. By the time we returned to the boat we were hot and sweaty. We had finished the water in our refillable bottles. In the boat cooler there were several cardboard containers of juice and two 500 milliliter water bottles.

That afternoon we went to the Hippo Pool. We left at 4:05 p.m. and arrived at 5:15 p.m. It was windy and the water was choppy. After spending 10 minutes with two dozen or so anxious hippos, we went to a small nearby island where we saw yellow billed storks and sacred ibis for a few minutes before rushing to catch the sunset on our way back to camp at 6:45 p.m. The following day, we returned to the bird island and Hippo Pool. Strong winds made it difficult to maneuver the boat. Also local fires stung our noses and eyes.

Other Although we liked the conservation minded concept behind the refillable non thermos metallic bottles the staff provided us on arrival at a previous Desert and Delta Safaris property, in practice the idea did not work well. The worst hindrance to the concept was that the water chilled from the cooler became warm within minutes. In addition, carrying the bottles from our rooms to refill them in the main building was inconvenient, especially during the rest period between boat rides when it was hot and uncomfortable everywhere and we sought water to lower our body temperature and quench our thirst. Refilling our bottles also required queuing up at the single water cooler when everyone was preparing for departure. If we placed them in the boat cooler it was difficult to tell the bottles apart.

Cleanliness Very good

Date of Last Visit November 2015

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our tents were serviced twice daily, in the morning when they cleaned, made up the beds, and picked up laundry; and in the afternoons when they returned clean laundry and made the room ready by enclosing the beds in mosquito netting and turning on the lights. When we arrived at the camp and each time we returned from a game viewing activity uniformed staff welcomed us with a kind word and a cool and fragrant moist facecloth towel for each of us.

Staff were responsive to requests and pleasant. For example, when I asked for a refill of ginger cookies for the cookie jar they baked a fresh batch and filled it. On the first night, my tent was in total darkness when I returned. On the second night, the external light was on and the tent interior was dark. There were plumbing problems in my bathroom on my final night during dinner. One of the staff offered to relocate me to the furthest tent by displacing a staff member staying there temporarily. In the end, the repairmen were able to solve the problem by bedtime.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression When we visited Leroo La Tau, a tented camp within a 60 hectare property on the banks of the Boteti River adjacent to the Makgadikgadi National Park as part of a Botswana safari itinerary, there was a heat wave in the region. It had been years since our last trip to that area and we were eager for our first glimpse of wildlife. Despite the overwhelming heat our excitement built on the small plane ride from Maun to the camp. Flying at a low altitude offered us a bird’s eye view of the flat arid landscape. Everywhere I glanced along our route the taupe land was parched. Small farms dotted the scenery and occasionally a river would traverse the land, spreading a narrow band of green for a short distance. The view from the plane made up for the hot and slightly bumpy ride.

When I think of Leroo La Tau, which means lion’s paw in the local language, the first memories that flood my mind are of memorable game viewing and beautiful riverside sunsets in the company of Slade Mmegwa, our favorite guide that trip. I remember mauve sunrises across the water from the deck of my tented room, and tens of dozens of zebra and wildebeest feeding in the shallow river during their seasonal migration. Our brief boat rides and longer game drives, especially on the first two days, afforded us excellent birding and game viewing opportunities. In addition to our first sighting of the zebra migration, we saw two of the Big Five during our stay. On our initial drive, for example, we had good sightings of lions and wild dogs.

Crowding the pleasant reminiscing are also thoughts of discomfort in the sweltering suffocating heat with hardly any respite for the entire duration of our stay. The property, which relied on daytime generator power, was ill equipped for the intense heat wave that blanketed the region driving daytime temperatures past 45 Celsius (113 Fahrenheit). Breezes that could have been cooling under different circumstances felt like blow dryer air, and the punishing rays of the sun made sitting outdoors uncomfortable and debilitating.

Indoors, our rooms, sealed during out absence for game drives, were super heated, making every surface hot to the touch and causing what little ice we had to melt within minutes. Several fellow guests became unwell with heat stroke and dehydration, often failing to recognize the signs until they were forced to stay in from the twice daily safari activities. But for the kind intervention of one of the staff I too might have had to forego the outings. We liked Leroo La Tau for its pretty river fronting rooms with a view, abundant buffets, passionate and attentive guide, and worthwhile game viewing. We would return in a cooler season.

Children Although there were only adults during our visit, the property welcomed children six and older. According to a spokesperson, families usually booked a private vehicle.

Class of Accommodation Luxury Tented Camp

Connectivity There was cell phone service. There was a one very slow computer for shared guest use in the library with a megabyte, 1-100 kilobytes per second internet connection.

General Manager Bruce Petty. Four individuals shared management duties while we were there: Kay, Hannah, Action and Nelson.

Handicapped Access The property could accommodate handicapped guests in wheel chairs in wheel chair friendly rooms and pathways.

Length of Stay Three nights

Location The property was situated on leased land adjacent to the Makgadikgadi National Park. It was a 90 minute flight from Johannesburg, South Africa to Maun. After flying 35 minutes in a small plane we arrived at the airstrip at Leroo La Tau. From there, a staff member picked us up for the 25 minute drive to the camp.

Owned and Managed Desert & Delta Safaris, which was owned by Chobe Holdings Limited, owned the lodge. As of August 2015, the directors of Chobe Holdings Limited, a company incorporated in Botswana, were P. M. Van Riet-Lowe, chairman, J. M. Gibson, deputy chairman and chief executive officer, J. A. Bescoby, A. D. Chilisa, B. D. Flatt, R. Gerrard , K. Ledimo, J.M. Nganunu-Macharia, D. S. Ter Haar, and A. M. Whitehouse.

Size There were 32 employees, including five guides, working in the 60 hectare property with 12 Luxury Tents. The lodge had traversing rights to 700 hectares within the national park.

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation The property opened in 2008.

Lobby and Common Areas From the parking lot where we arrived following the drive from the airstrip, we walked past common area bathrooms to a main building with an African decorative style housing the administrative office, a small gift shop, and a single space that contained a dining room and a bar. The building had a high ceiling thatched roof and smooth wood floors. Guests shared a single dining table with open seating. Folding directors chairs were lined on both sides of the table and at the ends. At meal times, staff set a buffet on tables lining the back wall. From the dining room, an open staircase led up to a doorless library-cum-computer room adjacent to a viewing deck.

Outside, an open wood deck furnished with patio furniture, faced green lawns, the small swimming pool, a fire pit and viewing deck, the Boteti River, and on the opposite shore, the Makgadikgadi National Park. A handful of steps down from the deck and to the left and right a dirt path led to the 12 guest rooms. Access to the dock for river activities was down a cement pathway adjacent to Room 9.

Bathroom A wood door divided the bedroom and bathroom. As in the bedroom the bathroom was designed to draw the eyes outward toward the river and park views. The same polished wood of the bedroom extended into the bathroom. The shower wall was tiled in gray. The other side was doorless and had half a glass wall. It required several attempts to adjust the water temperature. Twin sinks sat atop a wood base and beneath wood stick design framed mirrors. They were adjacent to a corner toilet with a wood seat behind the door. Across the bathroom from the sinks and toilet , the wall of the bathroom facing the river was glass with sliding windows and insect screen at the top. It was as hot or hotter than the bedroom.

Room From the main pathway short walkways branched off leading to individual tented rooms with thatched roofs constructed atop stilted wood platforms facing the Boteti River. From the room I had a view of the river and both banks. The water in the river was shallow and there were many antelopes standing in the river and on its shores. Each room had an animal shape carved on the wood entrance door. It locked with a key, which we carried with us. We stayed in rooms 10 and 11, two neighboring and nearly identical 38 square meter (8.65 meter by 4.5 meter) Luxury Tents on the banks of the river. They were blissfully quiet. I never saw or heard other guests or staff while in my room. Even in the common areas the property was quiet. Except when en route to and from common activities or at the pool I seldom saw guests in between meals and activity hours.

Our rooms, decorated in earth tones, were divided into three main areas, bedroom, bathroom and outdoor deck. Besides opening the sliding glass doors in the bedroom and windows in the bathroom, the only means to control the temperature was via a single upright fan plugged across the room from the beds (it was off at night when the generator was shut down). Any time we were out of our rooms we had to close the doors to lock out animal visitors. The lack of ventilation in the rooms, which remained closed for the better part of the day, caused the rooms to accumulate heat.

My tent, Room 10, had two beds, one double and one single. My travel partner’s tent, Room 11, had two double beds, each the size of two twin beds combined. Surrounded by open white mosquito netting that hung from a wood frame, they sat atop a fiber rug and were book ended by identical wood night tables with lamps. Pretty towel arrangements and leaf writing adorned each bed, inviting us to “Enjoy LLT” and “Feel at Home.” Artificial light was provided by two sources, track lights that ran on generator power and battery operated lamps for when the generator was off.

Additional furnishings included a comfortable cloth armchair, round table, vanity mirror, armoire, wood table and companion armless chair. Atop the table there was a hot beverage service, an ice bucket and thermos. On the round table there were also safari magazines, a property folder and complimentary safari booklets for guest use. The rear of the rooms was covered with glass windows and sliding glass doors, which maximized their lovely views of the Boteti River and the Makgadikgadi National Park across the water. Gauzy khaki curtains could be drawn for privacy although they did little to diminish the heating effects of the sun. There was a partially covered, with reed, wood deck extending out over the incline of the river bank. It was wide enough to accommodate two comfortable cushioned wood lounge chairs and a small table. Sunlight splashed the deck most of the day. The combination of sunlight and high temperatures made it impossible to spend more that a few minutes on the deck during the day. Even in the early dawn hours the deck was less than comfortable. At night we were advised to remain within our rooms at all times, except when escorted by the staff to and from meals.

Food Buffet meals were served indoors. Breakfast at 6 a.m. consisted of dry cereal, cheese, ham, fruit in syrup, pancakes, and bread. For brunch at 11 a.m. there were cold beef ribs, pork sausages, and potatoes, for example. Prior to the evening meal, staff members would draw our attention by ululating before introducing the staff on duty and sharing that night’s menu and wine selection. The lodge strived to serve traditional and game dishes, preparing meals from fresh home grown ingredients whenever possible. There were lettuce and tomato salads. In the afternoon, we would inform our guide of any beverage preferences for the afternoon game drives. It was so hot chilled water or sodas were usually what we requested. We enjoyed that one night, the staff sang traditional songs, circling, dancing and ululating around the dining room.

Amenities Meals (excluding beverages) and twice daily game drives were included in the nightly rate. In the rooms, there were bathrobes, slippers, blow dyers, lock boxes, flashlight, insect repellent and shower caps. There were Charlotte Rhys toiletries: shampoo, body lotion, and shower gel in refillable plastic bottles. In the game viewing vehicles, there was mosquito repellent and rain ponchos. There were bottles of water in the rooms for us to brush our teeth with because the tap water was not potable. In lieu of bottled water to drink, the property provided us with refillable non thermos metallic bottles.

Facilities There was a swimming pool. In the main building, there was a library and internet room, dining room, bar and curio shop.

Pool There was a 1.5 meter deep outdoor pool about 7 square meters large with terrazzo tile flooring surrounding it. The pool area had a splendid view of the river. There were six lounge chairs with cushions and two large canvas umbrellas that provided shade to the pool deck area. A small tree provided a modicum of shade to supplement the shade from one of the umbrellas. The water clarity was good. Although we saw someone clean it in the mornings there was usually a film of leaves and small insects on the surface brought by the breeze. Because the pool itself was in the sun during the midday break between our meals it was best to remain under the shade of the umbrellas. A brief dip in the pool went a long way toward dropping my body temperature as long as I didn’t linger under the sunlight

Shop A small shop sold branded clothes, books, crafts and locally made curios.

Game Viewing Slade, our guide, had seven years of experience. He was knowledgeable and paid attention to our interests and group dynamics. Because the park closed at sunset we had to depart immediately after our sundowner stop, heading back to the boats and to the property across the river with alacrity in the dimming light before the sun set completely.

We saw the following animals during the game drives: bushbuck, African wild dog, elephant, small spotted genet, giraffe, hippopotamus, scrub hare, impala, black-backed jackal, kudu, lion, Selous mongoose, slender mongoose, vervet monkey, porcupine, steenbuck, wildebeest and zebra. We also saw Nile crocodile, Nile monitor lizard, and community nest spider

We saw or heard the following birds: souther pied babbler, bateleur, white-fronted bee-eater, little bee-eater, swallow-tailed bee-eater, red-billed buffalo weaver, kori bustard, rattling cisticola, coppery-tailed coucal, grey-crowned crane, pied crow, African darter, African mourning dove, fork-tailed drongo, white-faced duck, martial eagle, tawny eagle, cattle egret, African fish-eagle, marico fly-catcher, grey go-away-bird, Egyptian goose, spur-winged goose, southern pale chanting goshawk, little grebe, helmeted guineafowl, hamerkop, African harrier-hawk, goliath heron, grey heron, purple heron, squacco heron, red-billed hornbill, southern yellow-billed hornbill, African sacred ibis, African jacana with chicks, brown-hooded kingfisher, pied kingfisher, woodland kingfisher, yellow-billed kite, blacksmith lapwing, black-crowned night-heron, ostrich, red-billed oxpecker, African palm-swift, paradise flycatcher, Meyer’s parrot, three-banded plover, black-chested prinia, lilac-breasted roller, purple roller, double-banded sandgrouse, common sandpiper, Kalahari scrub-robin, crimson-breasted shrike, magpie shrike, southern white-crowned shrike, southern grey-headed sparrow, African spoonbill, red-billed spurfowl, greater blue-eared starling, black-winged starling, marabou stork, saddle-billed stork, grey-rumped swallow, water thick-knee, Cape turtle-dove, lappet-faced vulture, white-backed vulture, and shaft-tailed whydah.

Plants: shinny buttercup, common reeds, hairy sage, hippograss, purple pod terminalia and watershield.

Activities Wake up was at 5:30 a.m. followed by departure at 6:30 a.m. after breakfast. We returned between 10:30 and 11 a.m. in time for brunch. At 3:30 p.m. we returned to the main building for tea before our 4 p.m. activity. Game viewing activities were short boat rides from our camp to the Makgadikgadi National Park followed by game drives in the park and a return to the property by boat. Guests who stayed at the property three nights or longer were able to spend a day visiting the Nxai Pans. While we were tempted to go, given the heat wave we declined. The two guests who went while were there became ill with heat stroke on their return that evening and the following day.

There were five safari vehicles with capacity for up to seven people per Toyota LandCruiser vehicle, including one guest in the front seat and two boats, including Yamaha 6 meter four stroke metal boats. Boats could accommodate nine and 12 passengers respectively. The game viewing vehicles had a canvas top that provided partial respite from the sun. We were fortunate to only have to share our drives with one other guest. There was a maximum of three vehicles allowed at each game sighting. In order to allow everyone an opportunity to see the animals, vehicles were only permitted to remain at a sighting for 10 minutes. There was a first in and first out policy. We saw property and self guided vehicles during our drives. Guides communicated via radio, sharing sighting information and coordinating viewings.

In case of rains during a drive the guideline was for the guide to assess the intensity of the rainfall to decide whether to continue or not. According to a property representative, it was quite rare for a game drive to be called off because of rain.

Other Although we liked the conservation minded concept behind the refillable non thermos metallic bottles the staff provided us on arrival, in practice the idea did not work well. The worst hindrance to the concept was that the water chilled from the cooler became warm within minutes. In addition, carrying the bottles from our rooms to refill them in the main building was inconvenient, especially during the rest period between game drives when it was hot and uncomfortable everywhere and we sought water to lower our body temperature and quench our thirst. Refilling our bottles also required queuing up at the single water cooler when everyone was preparing for departure.

Carrying the bottles on the game drives was even more inconvenient because we had safari gear such as the notebook provided by the property to keep track of our sightings, binoculars, extra layers of clothing, sun caps and heavy cameras to carry to the main building then back to the boat and onto the safari vehicle. Within minutes the water would be hot. We started asking our guide to add them to the game drive cooler. That helped. However, since all the bottles were identical it was challenging to know whose bottle was whose when they were all in the cooler. We were required to take the bottles with us to the next Desert & Delta property in our itinerary, a further inconvenience. Because of the luggage restrictions on the bush flights and our multi-property itinerary our bags were packed tight, leaving no space for the bottles and requiring that we hand carry them.

The source of electricity was a generator that was only on during the day. It meant only battery operated lights worked once the generator was turned off and we had no idea how long the batteries lasted so we used the lights sparingly. Water was sourced from a borehole or well and filtered. We were advised not to drink it.

The property received a TripAdvisor 2015 Certificate of Excellence. Leroo La Tau had Ecotourism status from the Botswana Tourism Organisation thanks to conservation efforts undertaken at the lodge. The property worked with the community in the area of the lodge.

Cleanliness Very good

Date of Last Visit November 2015

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our rooms were serviced twice daily while we were on game viewing activities, in the morning and for turn down in the evening. When we arrived at the camp and each time we returned from a game viewing activity uniformed staff welcomed us with a kind word and a cool and fragrant moist facecloth towel for each of us.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression The Chobe Game Lodge’s prime location facing north on the southern bank of the Chobe River within Botswana’s Chobe National Park, known for its outstanding game viewing, was the main reason we went there. By the time we arrived at the lodge after 15 days in the bush during an unexpected heat wave, we appreciated it as much for its thrice daily game viewing offerings as for its luxury features. Before we reached the lodge, most of our trip was spent in bush properties with only generator power for electricity, no air conditioning, and one shared computer for all guests with a painfully slow connection. We especially appreciated the property’s creature comforts and amenities and were pleased to find it had some WiFi connectivity. It was an ideal place to end our safari circuit on a high note.

We liked the newly renovated modern rooms, the property’s easy river access and views of the river from its elevated walkway, where welcome bubbly drinks, tea and lunch were sometimes served. The main building had a cozy bar and ample space to spread out as well as an inviting outdoor swimming pool, a fitness room and a spa room with several treatment options. The well stocked gift shop was the largest of all the gift shops we visited that trip.

Three safari activities each day scheduled between meals left little down time, yet we squeezed every experience we could into the day. Sometimes, there were not enough hours for my ambitions. For example, in order to have a massage or work out I had to skip a meal or a safari outing. In compromise I chose a massage and skipped one of the morning boat rides since our previous accommodations at its sister property had been all about boat rides.

From the elevated deck we enjoyed expansive views of the river, including some sightings of elephant herds (from among the 45,000 elephants said to make their home in the park) as they raced down to the water. It was a special treat to watch them, albeit from a distance, feeding, drinking, and playing in the water while we remained unobtrusive. During the game drives in the Chobe National Park, we saw three of the Big Five, including lion and elephant young, as well as interesting animal interactions such elephants chasing lions. During the boat rides on the Chobe River, we saw mostly riverine waterscapes and landscapes, elephants on the shore, and birds as well as crocodiles snacking on dung beetles and hunting.

We loved the property’s green initiatives (the lodge was a Botswana certified ecotourism property), such as its new electric vehicles. In addition to being eco-friendly the vehicles were significantly quieter than standard safari vehicles, making it much less likely for us to startle animals and birds when we approached them. That in turn led to more relaxed and natural viewing opportunities than those available on regular safari vehicles, which we especially liked. We would return to the Chobe Game Lodge for the good game viewing we experienced during the three daily water and land safari activities on the Chobe River and in the Chobe National Park, its luxury features, comfort food, including private tables and plated meals, and responsible tourism orientation.

Children The property welcomed children nine years of age and older for private activities.

Class of Accommodation Five Star Lodge

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi (4 megabytes) throughout the property. There was also cell phone service. The system was down the night off our arrival and early in the morning before we went on our first activity.

General Manager Johan Bruwer

Handicapped Access There were four rooms capable of accommodating handicapped guests.

Length of Stay Two nights

Location The Chobe Game Lodge was on the Chobe River within the 11,700 square kilometer (7,300 square mile) Chobe National Park in Botswana. To reach it from its sister property in Namibia, we transferred by boat, after crossing immigration in Namibia and Botswana, and safari vehicle through the park. There were daily flights to nearby Kasane airport from South Africa and elsewhere in Botswana.

Number of Employees 130, including 16 guides

Owned and Managed Desert & Delta Safaris, which was in turn owned by Chobe Holdings Limited, owned the lodge. As of August 2015, the directors of Chobe Holdings Limited, a company incorporated in Botswana, were P. M. Van Riet-Lowe, chairman, J. M. Gibson, deputy chairman and chief executive officer, J. A. Bescoby, A. D. Chilisa, B. D. Flatt, R. Gerrard , K. Ledimo, J.M. Nganunu-Macharia, D. S. Ter Haar, and A. M. Whitehouse.

Size The three story lodge occupied five hectares within the Chobe National Park. There were four suites, a family room, and 42 standard rooms.

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation The lodge opened in 1973. Renovations were ongoing and expected to be completed in 2017.

Lobby and Common Areas The decorative style of the property was East African. We arrived at a main building which housed reception, spa room, fitness room, gift shop, bar, dining areas, sitting areas, outdoor swimming pool, and river facing elevated walkway. There was a two story building with guest rooms on either side of the main building. Paved walkways connected the three buildings. The balcony of the fitness room as well as parts of the dining area, some sitting areas in the main building and the elevated walkway had partial or full views of the Chobe River.

Bathroom The modern bathrooms were light filled thanks to a large window. Each had a doorless shower with a glass wall, separate plastic bathtub, adjacent twin sinks with rectangular mirrors, polished concrete floors and walls, and blue and white tiles over part of the floor. Decorative animal plates hung on the wall. The only way to affect the temperature in the bathroom was to open the door and window.

Room We stayed in two neighboring 29 square meter rooms, 207 and 208, in Block 2 Top Level of the lodge. The sunlit rooms, a short walk from the main entrance via a paved walkway, had been renovated. The ground floor rooms had polished concrete floors with floor mats on either side of the beds, curved textured high ceilings, and partially wallpapered walls. Twin beds with large wood headboard were next to each other but not together. Each had a gray blanket and two feather pillows. There was also a duvet folded over at the foot of the bed. Identical night tables in black and white wood (there was one in the bathroom as well) with gray lamps and gray and red lamp shades framed the beds. There was a wood vanity (that could double as a desk) with a stool beneath a large framed rectangular mirror. A wood chest served as a luggage rack.

Opposite the beds there was an armoire with shelf and hanging space as well as a mini refrigerator stocked with water, soft drinks, and beer. On the shelf above it, there was a hot beverage service with two cups and saucers, a teapot and a hot water pitcher and snacks. On arrival there was a welcome snack plate with mini cheeses, nuts, dried fruit and Turkish delight. Large windows and a door led onto an open balcony with a view of the trees and foliage. Although there were two metal mesh chairs and a table on the balcony it was too hot to sit there during the day. In the corner there were double curtains, white sheer curtains and patterned thick curtains, to keep out the sun. There was a remote controlled wall air conditioner (the default temperature was 24 Celsius) and a fan with several speed that hung above the bed. The air conditioner struggled to keep the temperature cool because of the extraordinarily hot weather.

Food After a 4:30 a.m. wake up call we made our way to the main building for tea and coffee at 5 a.m., followed by departure at 5:30 a.m. Breakfast was scheduled at 8:30 a.m. on our return from the game drive and prior to the 10:30 a.m. boating activity. Lunch was available at 12:30 p.m. High tea was at 3 p.m., immediately before the afternoon game drive at 3:30 p.m. Dinner was served beginning at 7:30 p.m., allowing time for a brief respite following our return at 7 p.m. from the drive.

The staff assigned us and other guests private tables. Meals were plated most of the time. In general dishes were well presented and tasty. In the early morning, at breakfast and at tea there was a self service buffet. Prior to our departure in the first game drive in the early morning, there were fresh fruit, two types of muffin (chocolate and poppy seed), scones, hot beverages and juices. I had to walk back to my room to drink water because despite the hot temperatures there was none at the buffet table and the bar was closed.

For breakfast in addition to the buffet choices there were also a la carte options. On the first morning there was a huge selection at the breakfast buffet, including salads, fruit (fresh and in syrup) such as apples, kiwi, pear, guava, grapes, pineapple, strawberries, deli meats, cereals, bread and yogurt. There were also hot chafing dishes of minced meat, chicken livers, sausages (pork and beef), potato cakes, beans, pancakes and made to order eggs. On the second morning, perhaps because we arrived later from our drive, the selection was much smaller.

Amenities There was an electronic safe, mini refrigerator (stocked with water, Coca-Cola, Coca-Cola Light, Fitch & Leeds lemonade, LiquiFruit Breakfast Punch juice and Castle and St. Louis beer), complimentary laundry service, Charlotte Rhys shower caps and toiletries in refillable size containers (conditioning shampoo, shower gel, body lotion, and foam bath), and nougat at turndown. In the hot beverage service, there were four individual servings of Mantell’s Shortbread Finger (a favorite), Nescafe instant coffee and Caturra instant chocolate as well as six varieties of Dilmah teas.

Facilities Spa room, workout room, gift shop, outdoor pool, long elevated deck, restaurant, two bars (one was open during our stay), and boma (enclosed outdoor dining space).

Pool There was a 45 square meter free form outdoor swimming pool next to the lawn of the main building. The water had excellent clarity and the surface was free of insects. It was 9 square meters in size and between 1 and 2.2 meters deep. Lounge chairs, each with a towel, were strewn about near the pool under the partial trade of trees and in the sun. An automated pool vacuum cleaner with a long hose was running when I went swimming following breakfast. I was the sole guest in the pool area at that hour. Moments after I sat down a staff person arrived to offer me a beverage. She returned with my order very quickly. The water was especially refreshing given the heat wave that had struck Botswana during our time there. While I was swimming, I came across two large spiders on the pool rocks. I notified my server. Within 30 minutes staff identified them as poisonous baboon spiders and relocated them away from the pool.

Shop The gift shop sold local curios, branded clothing, Africa books and videos and costume jewelry.

Spa There was a 17.5 square meter massage room on the first floor near reception. I had a Rolling Sands Kalahari 90-minute massage by Monique, scheduled the previous day. The single treatment room spa was spotless and I enjoyed my treatment.

Game Viewing Enforcement of the rules within the Chobe National Park was strict, we were told as we observed park staff frequently stopping vehicles, including ours several times, and questioning drivers and guides. Visitors were permitted a maximum of five minutes at a sighting in order to allow others an opportunity to watch the animals. Although it was not peak season, often popular sightings were crowded with 10 or more vehicles from nearby lodges and self drive vehicles.

During the boat rides and game drives we saw many baby impala, crocodiles snacking on dung beetles, a fish eagle nest, water thick knee parents bravely defending their nest from a crocodile, and a confrontation between lions with cubs and elephants with young, as well as the following:

Animals: chacma baboon, little free-tailed bat, buffalo, bushbuck, elephant, giraffe, hippopotamus, impala, jackal, kudu, lion (twice, including once with three cubs), banded mongoose, vervet monkey, tree squirrel, warthog (with baby), waterbuck, Nile crocodile, monitor lizard, and leopard tortoise.

Birds: arrow-marked babbler, little bee-eater, kori bustard, jacobin cuckoo, African darter, martial eagle, tawny eagle, African fish-eagle, crested francolin, grey go-away-bird, Egyptian goose, spurwinged goose, yellow-billed greenbul, helmted guineafowl, goliath heron, purple heron, squacco heron, red-billed hornbill, African Jacana, brownhooded kingfisher, pied kingfisher, yellow-billed kite, blacksmith lapwing, white-crowned lapwing, African openbill, red-billed oxpecker, paradise fly-catcher, lilac-breasted roller, marsh sandpiper, wolly-necked stork, water thick-knee, and white-backed vulture.

Activities The property offered three safari activities per day, two in the morning and one after tea in the afternoon. They were game drives and boat rides. We went on six activities during our two night stay. The early wake up call and thrice daily activities made for busy days, yet it was hard to give up any of the activities. There were 11 safari vehicles and five boats.

The maximum number of guests per LandRover game viewing vehicle was nine, for Land Cruisers it was 12 and for skimmer boats it was 14. The skimmers were 3 meters by 6 meters large with 40 horsepower stroke outboard engines. There were two electric game viewing vehicles and one electric boat.

If it rained it was up to the guests whether to return or continue. It never rained during our stay. At times, there were many flies. Bush stops were not available on the boat rides. Within the park, if we wanted to stretch our legs or had a nature call only stops in designated rest areas with bathrooms were allowed. The new looking bathroom was clean. It had a flush toilet, although there was no toilet paper.

Our game drives were on Toyota Land Cruiser with four rows and space for 14 passengers. They had built-in metal bars with a pocket in each row. Fortunately, there were only three of us so we had ample space to spread out. Twice we went on game drives in the property’s new electric safari vehicle. One of the drives was the morning of our departure. Because we drove extra fast to catch a last minute sighting of an out of the way lion pride the electricity reserves in the vehicle ran down faster than usual. For the final 30 minutes of the return drive to the lodge our guide had to slow down significantly as we risked having the vehicle stall and leave us stranded. If that happened, the vehicle would have to be towed back to the lodge because there was no way to recharge it outside the lodge outlet. While on a regular day we could have waited for another vehicle to pick us up, that day we had a flight to catch and little tile to spare.

Our guide was Thuso Moeng who had five years of experience as a guide. She had trouble identifying two birds on the first boat ride and had no bird book with her. The following afternoon she identified the birds from the previous day and brought her bird book and binoculars.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Last Visit November 2015

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our rooms were serviced twice daily, in the morning and for evening turndown. In general, the service was mixed. At times, the staff were attentive and friendly. Other times, things fell through the cracks and staff appeared indifferent (such as in the gift shop). For example, although there was a cooler full of beer, some sodas and a plastic bottle of white wine, there was not enough water during the blistering hot afternoon boat ride for the three guests onboard. Since no one had asked our beverage preference two out of three of us had nothing to drink for sundowners the first day. There were no napkins on the boat although the snacks included oily fried fish. Likewise, the following day there were pigs in a blanket oily snacks and no napkins.

Leene, our server at lunch the first night and dinner the second night, was friendly, had a ready smile and was well informed and attentive. When asked, she made helpful recommendations. Our server at dinner, Rita, was also well informed and made recommendations on request. In the dining room, Gogan was also helpful. He frequently checked on guests, including us, to ask if everything was to our satisfaction. When they discovered the smoke from guests at another table bothered us they immediately moved them to another table. Reception desk staff were helpful when I approached them with property and spa questions and Monique, the spa therapist, was friendly and helpful.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression My visit to Xaranna began with a quintessential Delta experience, an exhilarating boat ride through a watery labyrinth of papyrus-bordered channels and floating islands of water lily pads. Secluded in the pristine wilderness of a 62,000 acre (25,000 hectare) wildlife concession in the southern Okavango, Xaranna can only be reached by boat most of the year. Birds soared as we went by and tiny painted frogs clung to their reeds; bulbous eyes emerged at water level, attached to a large bull hippo unflinchingly claiming right of way. We detoured. Across the lagoon, pale pavilions materialized among the trees. We landed to the warmest of welcomes from the management and staff.

From the dock, a family of carved wood hippos showed the way up the stairs to the main lodge, and set the stage for the whimsical lagoon theme of the property. The spacious lounge was a raised wooden platform opened on all sides to a panoramic view of the stunning patchwork of lagoons and channels that surrounded the camp. My tent, more like an oversized bungalow under a tented roof, was a delightful cocoon of luxury filled with thoughtful details that brought bush camp pampering to new heights. From the luxurious bathroom that opened onto a deep private veranda and swimming-size plunge pool with a view of the lagoon to the air-conditioned sleeping area, the comfort of the appointments was exceptional. There was a “gym in a bag” complete with Pilates elastic ropes and free weights to exercise away the delicious camp food, binoculars and a book on local birds for lounge-chair observation of the abundant bird and water-fowl population. Massages could be scheduled in my tent with the resident masseuse. And there were thoughtful attentions at every turn, from the wake-up call carafe of freshly squeezed orange juice to the bubble bath dotted with flower petals drawn in my oversized bathtub when I return from my sundowner drive.

While the customary bush camp twice-daily game drives were available and the guides and trackers of Xaranna were remarkably friendly and capable, they cheerfully indulged my preference for quietly drifting along reed-lined channels in a mokoro (flat dug-out canoe commonly used to navigate the Okavango waterways). I spent many contented hours taking in jewel-bright kingfishers darting in and out of the reeds, and hundreds of iridescent dragonflies hovering about, while giraffes browsed on the far side of the lagoon and the occasional elephant waded across. Judging by the glowing reports of fellow guests (a bird-watching couple declared themselves in heaven, others came back from a game drive bursting with the excitement of having spotted a cheetah with her cubs), there was something to satisfy a variety of pursuits in Xaranna. As for me, what I most enjoyed was the peaceful bird-filled environment, the excellence of the service and the luxury and romance of the accommodations. In addition to bird-watchers, I will recommend Xaranna to honeymooners, and to weary travelers looking for a relaxing introduction to the beauty of the Okavango Delta at the start of a safari itinerary. Or as I did, one serene last look at the end of an extended trip, before starting on the long journey home.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury river camp

Communications There was no mobile phone service in the area. Short-wave radio was the lodge’s main means of communication. Satellite phone was available for emergencies. For guests with their own laptop, there was good WiFi Internet access in the main lodge.

General Manager Johan van der Merwe, and the Lodge Manager is Nicolene Schoeman

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location In the southern Okavango Delta; a 20-minute flight by light airplane from Maun, the main gateway into Botswana’s safari areas.

Owned-Managed &Beyond, previously known as Conservation Corporation Africa (CC Africa), with headquarters in Johannesburg, South Africa, owned and managed the property. At the time of this writing &Beyond itself is owned by two major shareholders, Capricorn (the Enthoven family, originally from South Africa) and the Getty Family Trust.

Power The camp had diesel-generated power . The tents had electric lighting and air-conditioning, and sufficient power to charge batteries for cameras, computers and other electronic devices.

Size The 18.5-acre (7.5 hectares) camp consisted of nine guest suites capable of accommodating up to 18 guests. It employed a staff of 35, including four guides and four trackers.

Year Opened-Renovated Xaranna was inaugurated and opened for guests in August 2008.

Lobby And Common Areas The main lodge was a two-level wooden platform under ecru canvas with the dining room to the right and the lounge to the left. Both had wide front decks that faced the flood plain. The dining room was level with the entrance. To the rear, it was partitioned from the kitchen and service area by a series of wall-size wooden alcoves, each holding a white chest of drawers under a poster-size areal view of a Delta scene. White-painted carvings of grinning hippos were lined up on top of the alcoves. Dining furniture was a row of matching square pedestal tables and lime green molded resin contemporary dining chairs. There were similar tables and chairs on the open deck for al fresco dining.

To the left of the entrance, seven steps led up to the raised lounge. It was open on all sides. However, canvas panels could be rolled down to enclose the entire space. Flooring was polished wood covered with room-size natural jute rugs. There were three distinct areas in the lounge, decorated in a playful mix of contemporary design furnishings and quirky Delta-inspired accessories. The bar area had a back wall that held a built-in bar. In front of it, seating included two overstuffed sofas with pastel green canvas slipcovers and a long matching bench with a multitude of assorted pastel throw pillows. An eclectic grouping that mixed Lucite cubes, trunks covered with a collage of Delta images and trays held by fat-bottomed hippos formed a large center coffee table. The other end of the lounge doubled as a library. It housed a large semi-circular high-back sofa, with identical green canvas cushions and pastel pillows. The coffee table was a similar grouping of disparate flat surfaces. It held piles of books on safari-related topics, with more stored in a metal spiral hanging from a horizontal beam. A large metal wood stove offered a cozy spot to meet for evening drinks and exchange adventure stories with other guests. On the Delta side, the open deck was furnished with groupings of contemporary chrome and white wicker armchairs and sofas, with matching glass-topped coffee tables. End tables were rough-hewn wood cubes. Two modern chrome and green canvas swing armchair hung from a ceiling beam. After dark, large pillar candles in green glass hurricane lamps, and tall wooden candlesticks offered filled the tent with a romantic glow.

Bathroom To the left of the bedroom, the bathroom ran the width of the tent. It featured an oversized, freestanding center bathtub and an open shower with a large curved metal backsplash. A vanity with twin sinks rested against a curved paneled partition that separated the bathroom from the bedroom. Two rectangular mirrors framed with distressed wood and chrome wall sconces with parchment shades hung above the sinks. All bathroom fixtures were pristine white porcelain. The back wall held a floor length mirror and the door to the water closet with flush toilet. Storage shelving separated the sink area from the bath and shower. A sliding panel in the outer wall opened onto a large veranda with an outdoor shower and a large circular sofa facing the plunge pool and the lagoon.

Room My 1011 square foot (94 square meter) tent with wrap-around deck and side veranda, Number Two, was a natural canvas pavilion with a double-peaked roof held by tree-sized pillars. The outer walls were made of mesh screening. Tan canvas Roman shades could be lowered for privacy. The floors were dark polished wood covered with natural jute runners and throw rugs. The sliding front door opened onto a long foyer. A wooden partition separated it from the bedroom. It was decorated with a credenza covered with a collage of black and white Delta vignettes. A wall-size color close-up of a water lily bloom flanked by two wall sconces hung above it. At the far right of the foyer, a counter-height green pedestal held bar utensils and stacked black leather boxes with snacks. An ice chest covered in green canvas held ice and an assortment of cold drinks.

On the right, the foyer opened onto the sleeping area where a king-size bed on a white wooden platform faced the bush. It was draped in cappuccino-colored linen that could be closed to serve as mosquito netting at night. The platform also held two tall reading lights. The overhead air-conditioning unit was remote-controlled. Bedding was white high-count cotton with green embroidered trim. A large circular sofa upholstered in green canvas occupied the right corner of the tent. A full-length mirror in a large natural burlap frame was propped up against the wall behind it. An arc lamp, its shade covered with a cluster of felt water lilies hung above it. In front, a black and white collage-covered writing table and lime green molded resin and chrome chair completed the ensemble.

Food The food was excellent, fresh and well prepared. A breakfast buffet was served before the morning game drive. It included cereals, yoghurts, fruit and freshly baked breads with fruit juices, tea and coffee. Full English breakfast was available on demand. Lunch and dinner were served at individual tables. Lunch was assorted cold meat dishes and salads, breads and a tray of cheeses. Teatime was around 4 PM, prior to departure for afternoon activities. It was a combination of savory snacks and cakes with tea, coffee and juices. The three-course dinner was formally served plated and featured a choice of entrees, usually a choice of meat, game or fish main course, and a vegetarian option. Deserts were scrumptious, (a sinfully rich chocolate fondue immediately springs to mind!).

Amenities Xaranna offered an exceptional array of amenities. The sitting area had assorted drinking glasses, an ice bucket filled with ice cubes, a fresh lime on a cutting board with knife and stacked boxes with cashews, trail mix and banana chips. The ice chest held bottled water, soft drinks, white wine and beer. There was a canvas bag with binoculars, a copy of Birds of Southern Africa (Ian Sinclair, Phil Hockey & Warwick Tarboron), a deck of cards, backgammon and scrabble games. In the bedroom there was a box of tissues and a folder with an assortment of stationery on the desk and an intercom handset to communicate with the main lodge. There was also a large pillar candle in a glass vase and a jar of marshmallows.

In the bathroom there was a hairdryer, a generous supply of thick cotton bath and hand towels, washcloths, two each cotton sarongs, terrycloth bathrobes and slippers, and pool towels. The shower and sink area had face soap, laundry soap, bath soap, pump bottles of body scrub, bath oil, shampoo, conditioner and body moisturizing cream, shower caps, cotton balls and cotton swabs. Votive candles were arranged around the room. The storage partition had an electronic safe large enough to accommodate a laptop computer as well as smaller valuables. There was mosquito and insect repellent spray, two high-density flashlights, an emergency horn and two umbrellas. A wicker tote bag was filled with exercise equipment, including a yoga mat, Pilates elastic ropes, and sets of two and five pound free weights.

All meal, soft drinks and house alcoholic beverages were included, as were all game viewing activities and daily laundry service. Top brand alcoholic beverages such as vintage wines, French champagnes and luxury whiskies where available for an additional charge.

Gift Shop There was a well-stocked gift boutique within the main lodge area. It carried an assortment of chic Xaranna-branded safari wear, a variety of wood carvings, antique trinkets, local crafts and jewelry, and a few safari-related books.

Pool My suite had a private 6 foot x 14 foot (1.8 meter x 4.25 meter) plunge pool overlooking the bush.

Spa Although Xaranna didn’t have a dedicated spa facility, there was licensed masseuse on staff who offered a range of treatment options, including Swedish and aromatherapy massages in the guest tents.

Game Viewing While at Xaranna I saw: elephant, hippo, Cape buffalo, giraffe, lechwe and bushbuck. Bird sightings included: purple heron, African fish eagle, pied kingfisher, squacco heron, African jacana, Pel’s fishing owl, African darter, malachite kingfisher, black-bellied korhaan and Marshall eagle.

Activities In addition to game and bird viewing drives in open game-watching vehicles through the varied Delta landscape, the twice-daily activities included river cruises in electrically powered “eco-boats” or mokoros and bushwalks through the riverine forest around the camp.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit November 2009

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service Excellent. My suite was serviced three times daily. Every member of the management and staff was thoughtful, enthusiastic and eager to please. Attention to details was outstanding. When an unexpected rainstorm the night prior to my departure cast doubt whether the usual airstrip used by Xaranna would be operational, I was immediately informed not to be concerned. A helicopter pickup was being scheduled to take me to an alternate airstrip to ensure I wouldn’t miss any connection.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression Stretched along a verdant bank of the Thamalakane River on the outskirts of Maun, the gateway city to the Okavango Delta, Thamalakane River Lodge was quite literally a breath of fresh air after my extended stay in the parched wilderness of the Kalahari. Built in a grove of tall riverine trees filled with abundant bird life, the lodge was resolutely turned toward the river. All guest chalets and common areas had terraces that took full advantage of the cooling breezes and serene 180 degree view of the riverbanks lined with fluttering reeds visited by an ever changing array of water fowl and birds. Dusk was spectacular, with the sun setting the river ablaze as it slowly dipped behind trees.

Thamalakane River Lodge was blessed with an exceptional location. Because of its proximity and easy access to Maun via a newly paved, four-lane road, this tranquil river retreat with decidedly urban touches (such as elegant à-la-carte international dining and thoughtful concierge services) appealed to the city’s elite as well as leisure visitors. For local residents, the lodge was a favored spot for business meetings and special-occasion dining. For safari tourists, it was a welcoming enclave of peace close to the city, to ease the transition to and from the bush or to settle in while exploring nearby eastern areas of the Okavango Delta. The latter was the purpose of my visit.

Working with a local safari tour company, the friendly staff of Thamalakane River Lodge arranged a program of activities tailored to my interests. A daylong excursion to the Moremi Game Reserve, a diverse environment of flood plain, permanent water, forest and savannah, made for outstanding game viewing. The next day found me cruising in a mokoro (flat dug-out canoe commonly used by local residents to move around the Okavango swamps) with my guide and pole man, across vast expanses of water lilies in full bloom and enjoying the exceptional bird life along the papyrus-bordered channels. I also visited Sexaxa, a nearby village of the local Bayei tribe. I spent a most rewarding morning there, not only exploring the cultural and domestic aspects of village life, but also communicating (through an interpreter) with several villagers who had as many questions about my world and daily life as I had about theirs.

With its easy proximity to Maun and the airport was well as the Moremi Game Reserve and the Okavango eastern flood plains, Thamalakane River Lodge was an ideal introduction to my visit of the Delta. Its superior accommodations, attentive management and well-trained staff made it a place where I will gladly return whenever tourism or business travel take me to the area in the future.

Class Of Accommodation Thalamakane River lodge held a three-star rating from the Botswana tourism board.

Communications Mobile phone service was readily available at the lodge as well as in and around Maun with GSM a 900/1800 compatible international cellular phone. A desktop computer connected to the internet was available for guest use in the reception area. Connectivity was erratic at best.

General Manager Jacques Van Der Merwe

Handicapped Access Motion impaired guests could be accommodated by previous arrangement.

Length Of Stay Four nights

Location On the Thamalakane River, a 20 minute drive northeast from Maun Airport, on the road to the Moremi Game Reserve.

On-Site Managers Tanja Von Kaschke and Neill Robberts

Owned The lodge was owned jointly by six private investors: Killor Ledimo, Robert Riggs, Jacques Van Der Merwe, and Sieg, Reinhardt and Marius Van Regburg.

Size The 21 acre (87,500 square meter) lodge consisted of 10 guest chalets capable of accommodating up to 20 guests. It employed a staff of 34 including two on-site managers.

Year Open-Renovated The property was built and began welcoming guests in 2007.

Lobby And Common Areas From the upper level reception chalet and parking area, a stone stairway hugged the edge of a rock waterfall and aquatic garden to lead over a small wooden bridge to the open-plan multi-level main lodge. The lodge was built of beautifully crafted stonework under a soaring thatch roof that unobtrusively blended into the slope of the terrain. It was open on three sides to ensure a panoramic view of the river. To the right of the entrance bridge, the bar occupied the center of the lounge area. It had a horseshoe-shaped stone base topped by a thick slab of polished exotic wood. It was surrounded by tall wrought iron ladder-back chairs. On either side of the bar, intimate groupings of rattan sofas and armchairs with natural canvas cushions were gathered around square coffee tables on thick oriental rugs. Toss pillows were made of local textiles, color-coordinated to the rust and deep red tones of the rugs.

The library was in a quiet corner of the lounge. Its three overstuffed rolled-armed sofas angled around a wrought iron and slate coffee table were an especially cozy spot to settle with a book and a cool drink. An ancient wooden mokoro hung horizontally against the stone wall to provide an interesting sculptural shelf to store reading material. To the left of the entrance bridge, three steps led down to the dining room, which occupied the entire front of the lodge. Its square wrought iron tables were topped with slate. Matching metal chairs with high ladderbacks and coral canvas cushions provided the seating. Rough-hewn tree trunks supporting the roof served as backdrops for a collection of local masks and wood carvings. Beyond the dining room, square teak tables and armchairs were arranged around a tree-shaded flagstone terrace overlooking the river. The terrace was a popular spot for relaxed al fresco meals and sundowner drinks, as was the large boma (fenced flagstone terrace with an open air cooking area) at the far end of the dining room.

Bathroom The bathroom occupied the left side of the chalet. In addition to the flush toilet, bathroom fittings included a half-round vanity with a polished mahogany countertop that held a white porcelain sink. Above it a square mirror was built into the slate wall. The oversized slate-tiled shower stall was closed with glass doors.

Room My 280 square foot (26 square meter) chalet, Number Five, featured a deep thatched covered veranda with a wicker loveseat and a small iron and slate coffee table. I especially enjoyed lingering there over my early morning coffee while observing the bird activity in the trees above. From the veranda, double sliding glass doors led into the chalet. Above them a triangular screened opening followed the pitch of the roof to ensure plentiful airflow. There was also a ceiling fan in the peak of the ceiling to keep the room comfortably cool at all times. The chalet was built of rustic stone. The back wall was white plaster with embedded slabs of slate that provided a visual headboard for the double bed. Two wood and wicker beside tables held reading lamps with beaded shade. Mosquito netting hung from a hoop above the bed. Furniture was made of local wrought iron. To the left of the door, a tall shelving unit provided storage and served as a luggage stand. In the center of the right wall, a half-round table topped with a large mirror and a high-back wicker chair served as a writing desk and dressing table. A wicker barrel armchair provided additional seating. At the foot of the bed, a large oriental throw rug covered the slate flooring. A stone and wood partition separated the sleeping area from the bathroom.

Food The lodge had an excellent full-service restaurant with an à-la-carte menu that featured a variety of well prepared dishes, and an extensive, well priced wine list. Organically grown local produce was especially delicious, often served grilled with various cuts of local beef, fresh fish or seafood (flown in twice weekly from South Africa). I particularly enjoyed the oven-roasted bream, and the succulent prawns served grilled to perfection with lemon butter. Especially on weekend nights, the restaurant was a favorite with Maun residents. However, guests of the lodge always enjoyed reserved seating.

Amenities Room amenities included daily laundry, an electric kettle with coffee and tea service and bottled water. A wicker basket held mosquito and insect repellent, a flashlight and an emergency horn. An electronic safe was built into the wall. Bathroom amenities included tissue paper, bath and hand towels, face cloths, face soap, and individual size bottles of body wash and shampoo.

Gift Shop There was a small gift shop in the reception chalet. It carried a limited assortment of locally created crafts, mainly textiles, jewelry and basket wares.

Pool In the center of a well-kept lawn, a 20 by 20 foot (six by six meter) free form swimming pool was surrounded by six lounge chairs with natural canvas cushions. Under a matching canvas umbrella, six teak folding chairs arranged around a slate-topped coffee table provided additional seating. The attentive bar staff was prompt to deliver drinks and snacks, and constantly replenish the supply of pool towels.

Game Viewing In addition to the constant bird viewing within the lodge’s grounds, my visit to Moremi Game Reserve and my mokoro cruise provided excellent game viewing opportunities.

Game I sighted included: black-backed jackal, elephant, zebra, giraffe, buffalo, hippo, red lechwe (including a startling snow-white albino specimen within a herd of its red brethren), tsessebe, steenbok, impala, waterbuck, kudu, red-painted frog.

Birds included: red eye dove, Cape mourning doves, swallow-tailed bee eater, carmine bee eater, red hornbill, gray hornbill, yellow hornbill, gray heron, saddle-billed stork, open-billed stork, slaty egret, gray egret, yellow-billed egret, little egret, blacksmith plover, lilac breasted roller, hadada ibis, sacred ibis, black-winged stilt, reed cormorant, African jacana, hammerkop, pygmy goose, African fish eagle.

Activities Lounging poolside, bird-spotting and reading were favorite activities around the lodge. While Thamalakane River Lodge did not directly provide activities or excursions, it maintained a close relationship with an established local mobile safari organization (Mosu Safari Tours) that had a staffed desk in the lodge’s reception chalet. They had prepared a suggested program of daylong excursions prior to my arrival, all in private vehicles and with knowledgeable private guides, at competitive prices. Although I opted for half and full day excursions, overnight or longer tours could also be arranged.

Other At the time of my visit, under the leadership of lodge manager Tanja Von Kaschke, who holds a degree in nature conservation from the Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University (NMMU) in George, South Africa, Thamalakane River Lodge was engaged in an extensive program to meet or exceed international responsible tourism guidelines.

With the exception of the general and on-site lodge managers, all staff was from the local community. Management and training programs were in place, and supervisory positions were being filled through promotion from within staff ranks. Local farmers had been contracted to organically grow produce for the lodge, thus ensuring top quality ingredients for the restaurant, while enhancing the relationship with the local community, and reducing the need for air-freighting food supplies (and the carbon footprint of the lodge). An effort was well underway to revert the landscaping of the grounds from exotic species to exclusively indigenous vegetation. In addition to its esthetic value, the new landscaping was resulting in a substantial reduction of ground upkeep and water consumption.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit October 2009

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service The room was serviced once daily. All the staff I came in contact with had good English language skills, and were well trained, friendly and attentive.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression We reached the Tuli Safari Lodge Reserve, missing the border closing at Pont Drift by a hair (our transfer service was two hours late picking us up), after a five hour drive from Johannesburg, South Africa. A representative of the lodge (later we discovered he was to be our constant companion and fearless guide for the next five nights) met us at the border and escorted us through. Within minutes we were seated in an open Land Rover crossing the dry river bed of the Limpopo River, one of the most important rivers in Southern Africa, beginning our five night Tuli Adventure Trail. During our stay we spent time at Nokalodi Tented Camp, Tuli Safari Hide and Tuli Safari Lodge all of which were property of the Tuli Safari Lodge.

Named for the Tuli Block (the town of Tuli is in Zimbabwe), a large area of land bordering South Africa on the south and Zimbabwe on the east, the Tuli Safari Lodge Reserve was home to a lodge, two bush camps and a hide with overnight accommodations for several guests. The Tuli Safari Lodge Reserve is situated within the 71,000 hectare Northern Tuli Game Reserve.This area of Botswana is distinctive because of the hilly, arid terrain which differs significantly from some of the more famous areas of the country like the Delta, Moremi, Chobe and Savute.

We found the Tuli area worth a dedicated visit for several reasons including the game viewing. From the time we arrived at Nokalodi (which means near the river in Setswana) until we left from the lodge, the game viewing was excellent. We saw leopard four out of five days including one lengthy daytime sighting with a very relaxed leopard. It was the quality as well as the quantity of the bush experiences that we remember fondly.

Music and singing are a part of life in Africa. At Tuli the staff formed a lovely sounding choir. When we arrived at Nokalodi the choir welcomed us with a song, leaving us moved and glad for the pure pleasure of their voices. Following dinner at the lodge one night the Tuli Choir sang and danced to the delighted surprise of guests including us.

Tuli was home to some of the friendliest Botswana people I have met. All the staff members we encountered at this property (managers, guides, wait staff, barman and conservationist) made us feel genuinely welcome. Although the game viewing was outstanding, the food savory and well prepared, and the facilities and accommodations comfortable and spacious the single most notable feature at Tuli for me was the friendliness and warmth of the staff.

In particular our guide, Abraham Ramonwana, who in addition to being born in a nearby village had 15 years of bush safari experience, made our visit special by sharing his knowledge and enthusiasm for the bush, finding and telling us about game animals and plants during our drives and bush walks, and showcasing local life during a village tour. Thanks to his passion for the bush we looked forward to every outing. We also had an opportunity to spend time with Tuli Safari Lodge Manager Cornel Reis, a dedicated and welcoming host who was very familiar with and interested in the optimum management of the Northern Tuli Game Reserve.

We especially enjoyed our visit to this outstanding reserve and the Tuli Adventure Trail, which gave us a taste of the different ways to experience the bush: in a tented camp, at an overnight hide and in a comfort oriented lodge with air conditioned rooms. The family oriented four star bush lodge offered excellent value for money and many pluses including a location on the banks of the Limpopo River, luxury Category 5 accommodations, tasty meals, excellent game viewing with a knowledgeable and experienced guide and friendly staff focused on providing us a positive bush experience.

Children The property welcomed children of all ages and offered kids activity packs, children’s meals and babysitting services. Bushwalks were only available for children 12 and older.

Class Of Accommodation The lodge was a four star facility per Botswana government guidelines. There were also two tented camps and a hide capable of accommodating guests overnight within the Tuli Safari Lodge Reserve.

Connectivity There was access to the Internet through a computer available for guest use in a small un-airconditioned room. Although the WiFi connection was down during our visit I was able to download emails by connecting the lodge ethernet cable directly to my notebook computer. That allowed me to check on urgent issues at home and was more than I’ve been able to do at many other safari properties.

General Manager Cornel Reis

Handicapped Access The property had ramps and hand rails in important access areas and the main lodge area (lounge, bar, boma ) was wheelchair accessible although a property representative clarified that “we are not specifically geared up to welcome handicapped guests.”

Length Of Stay Five nights of which we spent two at Nokalodi, one at the Tuli Hide and two at the Tuli Safari Lodge.

Location The lodge was a few minutes drive from the Botswana South Africa Pont Drift Border Post and about five and a half hour drive from Johannesburg, South Africa along mostly highway type roads. Tuli is close to Mapungubwe World Heritage Site in South Africa and within the proposed Limpopo-Shashe Transfrontier Conservation Area expected to extend to 300,000 hectares in Botswana, South Africa and Zimbabwe.

Owned And Managed Tuli Safari Lodge (Pty) Ltd owned the Tuli Safari Lodge Reserve. Individual owners hail from South Africa, Switzerland and Great Britain.

Pets Allowed No

Size There were eight suites and a pilot’s room in the 2,500 hectare private lodge property with traversing rights to 17,000 hectares. There were 32 employees, including four guides and four trackers, at the property.

Year Opened-Renovated The lodge was established in 1964. In 2008, there were structural upgrades to rooms, including additional lounge areas and patios for four ele suites at Tuli Safari Lodge. That same year new tents were bought for Nokalodi and there was soft refurbishment in the camp. In 2009, there were soft refurbishments at Tuli Safari Lodge.

Lobby And Common Areas Tuli representatives designed the property to be warm and welcoming. Rustic rondavel buildings were the central features of the lodge main area. They were painted in ochre colors to match the surrounding sandstone outcrops, with thatched roofs. The bar was built around an ancient Nyala berry tree. Dining was in an indoor lounge, under the shade of a tree in the center of the lodge property or in the boma for dinner. Among our favorite features were the gardens and the presence of very relaxed bushbuck and warthogs on the grounds who came to feed daily on the lodge’s deep green lawns and flowering trees. The Tuli area which surrounds the lodge is filled with basalt formations, sandstone hills and ridges, (mostly dry) riverbeds and riverine forests, open grasslands and marshy areas, making the deep green of the watered lodge grounds stand out and attract animals.

Bathroom In Warthog there was a walk in shower with a translucent ceiling at the far end of the bathroom, a stand alone bathtub on a stone base in the middle; a toilet in the corner and a sink on a wood base with a framed mirror above it. During our stay several dassies walked on the ceiling of the bathroom, making loud noises and startling me until I realized what they were making the noise. For décor there were six small wood framed rectangular mirrors on the wall. The shower was extra large and doorless. Because the floor was slippery the walk-in concrete and stone shower required caution. In Elephant, the bathroom was slightly smaller than in Warthog and the layout had the shower with a similar ceiling to the one in Warthog to the left of the entrance, the bathtub facing the entrance and the sink and toilet on the right side of the room.

Rooms We stayed in two category 5 rooms, Elephant, near the center of the lodge, and Warthog, set in an outlying area a two-minute brisk walk from the lodge main area. They were luxury oriented with comfortable beds, a cool interior thanks to fans and individual air conditioning units, and Africa themed. Although there were common decorative elements between the two suites each one had its own layout and slightly different features.

The 50 square meter Elephant room, the cozier of the two rooms where my travel companion stayed, had two single beds under mosquito nets, two sets of doorless concrete shelves on either side of the bathroom entrance and a single area for hanging clothes. There were two dark wicker armchairs with white cushions and a small tray table in the middle on the right side of the room. The entrance to the bathroom, a wooden door, was in the middle of the circular room.

To reach Warthog, my 80 square meter rounded double suite situated nearer to the Limpopo River than the main building, I crossed the sandy parking lot then continued through a stone pathway, over a rickety small bridge and back along the pathway to a building shared with another room. Inside, it was spacious with sleeping and living areas. It had polished and painted concrete floor with stone accents and a khahi and brown rug in the living area. It had a thatched roof and ceiling and a double concrete closet with shelves and hanging space. A partial wall with high relief artwork divided the sleeping and living areas. There was similar high relief artwork on the bathroom walls.

To the left of the entrance there was a concrete table with a framed mirror, pitcher of water, and shoe polish kit. A luggage rack was set against the opposite wall from the concrete table. My suite had lots of windows in varied sizes that allowed limited amounts of sunlight in, keeping the room dark and cool inside. There was a coffee and tea service table set against a wall. The living area, to the right of the entrance, had a large glass and wood coffee table, two large beige armchairs, as well as a wicker stool and a wicker table. The main feature of the sleeping area, to the left of the entrance, was a queen bed with a wood headboard and mosquito netting hanging from a frame from the ceiling (it covered the bed at night) and identical wood night tables on either side. There was a bench at the foot of the bed.

Meals The food at Tuli was savory, freshly made and served with a smile. Locations seemed to vary with every meal. We had meals at the boma in the camp or lodge, by the river, at the hide, in the open terrace at the lodge, and in the Summer Lounge at the lodge. About 30 minutes after wake up time there was a hot beverage service as well as fruit and muffins in the dining room. Breakfast was served following our morning game drive at about 9:30 a.m. Breakfast items on offer in the buffet included two types of cereal, milk, yogurt, and fruit salad. It was also possible to request hot made to order eggs with tomato, mushrooms and bacon.

A light buffet lunch (we had fish cakes, pancakes and ground meat lasagna, and salads) was served at 1 p.m. Dinner was served before or after the second game drive of the day. On our first night at the lodge the staff served a grilled self service dinner in the boma: spinach soup, curried chicken, rice, and steamed vegetables.

Amenities There were Green Theme travel size toiletries including body lotion, shampoo, soap and shower gel as well as a shower cap, mosquito spray, electronic safe, flash light, sewing and shoe cleaning kits. There was complimentary bottled water at night. There was also complimentary self service in room coffee, hot chocolate and tea.

Facilities There was a Summer Lounge or in indoor dining area, bar, gardens, conservation center, two hides (requiring a drive), curio shop, star deck and a swimming pool.

Pool There was a swimming pool with a shallow children’s section, several lounge chairs and umbrellas. Because a herd of elephants had plunged into the pool shortly before our arrival, it was in the process of being cleaned during our visit. Depth ranged from .5 a meter to 1.8 meters.

Tuli Safari Hide After two fun nights at the camp our afternoon bush walk led to a hide where we spent the night in the hope of hearing and seeing game in their natural surroundings. As we approached on foot with Abraham in the lead the hide looked inviting, lit with the subtle shades of sunset. The hide was bigger and more elaborate than we had expected. Several staff members had arrived before us to set up the hide for our sleepout. There was a bar and a roaring fire in the boma and the promise of dinner (brought from the lodge) was in the air. Access to the three level hide was via ladders. A tall ladder led to the highest level of the hide furnished simply with two mattresses on the floor, a couple of night lamps and a spot light within an enclosed space. A shorter ladder led to a middle level with a double mattress. A tall step above the bed there was an open platform where we had a plated dinner under the stars.

On the ground level past the main area of the hide there was a two-sided enclosed bathroom housing a flush toilet and sink with running water on each side. After dinner the staff departed leaving us a two-way radio (we declined Abraham’s offer to spend the night with us) and we settled down. Too excited to sleep we listened for hyena which we were told often visited the area in the early evening and searched the vicinity with the powerful spotlight from our perch atop the hide. Unfortunately it was a very windy night and we saw no animals. In the early morning, just as the sun was rising, Abraham picked us up for our morning game drive.

Game Viewing Game drives were in an open Land Rover (some groups preferred to have a top on the vehicle but we enjoyed the topless drives) with space for six guests (nine by guest request) on three rows of three seats each. To our delight as the sole participants in the Tuli Adventure Trail that week we were the only ones in our vehicle. This also meant we had Abraham Ramonwana, our guide who had been with Tuli for 15 years, and Johannes Namakonde, his young assistant, to ourselves. Although we would see other vehicles sometimes, we were usually the only vehicle at sightings, except when there was a leopard. Tuli guides were accredited by the Botswana Training Authority and qualified at the Okavango Guiding School. They also received in-house training with the property conservationist.

Animals we saw during our stay: leopards on four different occasions, bat eared fox, spotted hyena (with cubs), large and small spotted genets, bushbuck, vervet monkeys, chacma baboons, kudu, steenbuck, elephant, impala, scrub and spring hares, tree squirrel, warthog, giraffe, eland, klipspringer, rock and tree (yellow-spotted) dassies, African wild cat, lesser bushbaby, duiker, black-backed jackal, banded mongoose, white-tailed mongoose, steenbook, waterbuck, blue wildebeest, zebra and Nile crocodile.

Birds we saw or heard: crested barbet, white-fronted bee-eater, tropical boubou, golden-breasted, cinammon and rock buntings, kori bustard, spotted dikkop, Natal and namaqua doves, African fish eagle, Verreaux’ (black) eagle, spotted eagle owl, cattle egret, Natal francolin, Egyptian geese, helmeted guinea fowl, hammerkop, grey heron, African hoopoe, red billed and southern yellow-billed hornbills, sacred and hadeda ibises, rock kestrel, sabota lark, grey go-away bird (loerie), speckled mousebird, fiery-necked nightjar, eastern black-headed oriole, ostrich, Pearlspotted owlet, redbilled oxpecker, blacksmith lapwing, three-banded and crowned lapwing plovers, red billed quelea, lilac breasted and purple roller, common sandpiper, secretary bird, crimson breasted, white-crested and magpie shrikes, Cape glossy and longtailed starlings, black-winged stilt, marabou stork, white-backed vulture, blue waxbill, lesser masked and white-browed sparrow weavers, and night jar.

Activities Our five-night Adventure Trail included bush walks and game drives depending on the day. The bush walks were rewarding because, although we didn’t usually see animals up close, we had an opportunity to see things we were unable to see during the game drives. During one morning drive we saw two faded bushmen paintings on a rock. In addition to the twice daily game activities we could spend time in our tents at the camp or air conditioned rooms at the lodge during the day, at a hide, or poolside (naughty elephants had dunked in the pool while we were at the reserve and the pool was out of order during our visit). Optional activities on offer included a visit to a local village and a long morning drive to the confluence of Shashe and Limpopo rivers where Bostwana, South Africa and Zimbabwe meet. We enjoyed this six-hour excursion especially.

During the tour of the local village we drove through the unpaved roads of the village, stopped at a basket vendor’s roadside spot where she had a couple dozen woven items for sale between 10 pula and 150 pula; went to the lapala palm wine area where a rather inebriated proprietor greeted us. We could see local customers gathered in a corner drinking the fermented liquid. She was friendly and showed us very informally how she makes the brew by chopping off the stem of the plant with a short machete and letting the liquid drain into containers. She laughed and made jokes, offered us a taste of the wine from a leaky plastic container after she and others shared its contents.

Conference Facilities There was a 42 square meter Winter Lounge with air conditioning. There was also a 77 square foot partially open Summer Lounge available for meetings. Business equipment available included TV/DVD, white boards, flip charts, and overhead projector. Photocopies, fax, phone, email, and Internet were available. There was the possibility of combining conferences with Tuli Bush Business themed game viewing activities to link with conference messages by focusing on parallels between the bush and the business world.

Curio Shop There was a small curio shop that sold branded clothing, locally made crafts and jewelry, toiletries and the Tuli Choir CD.

Nokalodi Tented Camp The first place we stayed at and our home for the first two nights was Nokalodi, a small unfenced camp two kilometers from the lodge with outstanding accommodations, activities, service and meals. We especially liked the setting of the camp near the famed Limpopo River and adjacent to a distinctive sandstone cliff. From the comfort of the Nokalodi boma under the shade of a large tree we observed birds, monkeys, elephants, klipspringers, and baboons. Our spacious and clean tents had regular beds and linens, a small night table, a closet and an en suite partially open bathroom with running hot and cold water (and good water pressure), toiletries, towels, shower, toilet and sink. Although at night there was no electricity there were kerosene lamps and candles. The only challenge at the camp was staying cool within the tent in the heat of the afternoon.

Other Tuli Safari Lodge, voted Botswana’s Leading Safari Lodge in the World Travel Awards in 2008 and 2009, has been actively involved with several community development projects for several years. When we were there the property had a resident conservationist and policies for sustainable use of natural resources. There were community programs to support children in neighboring villages, including the donation of computing equipment to schools and hosting orphans from the region for an annual environmental awareness day. Using funds raised at a dinner to celebrate the 40 anniversary of Botswana’s independence and working closely with social workers in the Bobirwa district, Tuli Safari Lodge sponsored the building of a fully-furnished house for a family of eight orphaned children. The company formed a joint venture with three local villages to create a new self-catering camp in the Tuli Block at Molema, providing the communities an opportunity to participate in and benefit from tourism to the region designed to generate income, employment and training for their community members.

Tuli staff members formed a choir and regularly entertain guests at the lodge. The choir recorded a Tuli Choir CD that was available for purchase at the curio shop and on iTunes. All proceeds go to the Tuli Health Care Fund which provides medical care for the property staff and their families.

The resident conservationist conducted research, monitoring and species/ecosystem conservation projects including game population assessments, investigations of animal behavior patterns and soil and habitat conservation projects were organized. The Lodge, a member of Birdlife Botswana and Birdlife South Africa, recorded and submitted data about threatened birds. Tuli staff also worked closely with local wildlife department on snare-clearing and anti-poaching patrols.

There were policies at Tuli to ensure sustainable use of the property’s natural resources, including limiting wood collection, minimizing off-road driving, recycling waste and reducing the use of electricity. Registered with the Botswana Training Authority (BOTA) as a conservation and hospitality training center, Tuli provided, in association with the Okavango Guiding School, training for guides, rangers and hospitality staff.

In addition to the Tuli Adventure Trail we participated in, there was: Wildguides @ Tuli, a four-day safari guide type course for guests; Botswana and Mapungubwe, a four-night stay at Tuli Safari Lodge and Mopane Bush Lodge emphasizing history and cultural heritage; and Transfrontier Safari and Luxury Escape, a five-night Southern African transfrontier visit to Botswana’s Northern Tuli Game Reserve and South Africa’s Limpopo Province

Cleanliness Very good

Date Of Review October 2009

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Juan Cooper

Service Throughout the five nights and three types of accommodations of the Adventure Trail program we participated in staff were efficient, punctual, pleasant, friendly and welcoming.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes

Overall Impression When traveling to remote locations it is a rare experience for me to reach a place where everything is unerringly right. Xudum Okavango Delta Lodge was such a place. Built deep within a 62,000 acre (25,000 hectare) wildlife concession, Xudum appeared like a remote Eden when I first approached it from the water. The peaks of its impeccably thatched roofs peered among the treetops of a lush riverine forest at the edge of a lagoon carpeted with water lilies in full bloom. The tri-leveled main lodge was designed to showcase the endless vistas of reed and papyrus beds of the southern Delta, made all the more striking by the witty blend of sophisticated luxury and whimsy of the stylish contemporary décor. Sectional sofas mingled with local craft and, introducing the property’s recycling theme, tire swings and sculptural end tables that turned out to be made of soda cans. I immediately coveted the Xudum kitchen with its battery of professional cooktops and ovens, its tall wine refrigerator and the latest in kitchen appliances. It even had a gleaming Italian espresso machine and a long granite serving bar with a sweeping view of the Delta!

My own unassumingly labeled “guest suite” turned out to be lovely villa with a private plunge pool large enough to swim in, and an air-conditioned bedroom. Its upper level deck under thatch went from being a superbly comfortable hide during the day to offering optional open-air sleeping quarters at night. I spent an entire siesta time there watching a herd of elephants browsing about the camp before trundling off to a copse of mopane trees at the end of the property.

The staff was consistently gracious and attentive, with everyone’s demeanor unequivocally expressing how happy they were I had come to visit. The attention to the smallest detail was amazing. My wake-up calls came with a carafe of freshly squeezed orange juice. Morning drive coffee was French-pressed. When I walked from my suite to the main lodge shortly after the elephants’ passage, I noticed that the pathways had already been raked clear of any signs of their visit. And after I complimented the chef on the delicious savory herbed shortbread served with cocktails, a copy of the recipe materialized on my desk the next morning.

The quality of the guiding was on par with the hospitality. I had come to Xudum to experience the remote waterways of the Delta and enjoy its bountiful birdlife. My guide Ona Basimani ensured that I did that, from marveling at the expertly woven straw cup of a warbler’s nest threaded between three reeds to repeatedly spotting elusive Pel’s fishing owls. I was pleasantly surprised to find some game as well. In addition to the omnipresent elephants, hippos, and lechwes, I enjoyed sighting the occasional giraffe, and a rarely seen side-striped jackal howling at the moon.

My one regret about Xudum was that I hadn’t planned to stay longer. There were not enough hours in the day, nor days on my itinerary to take full advantage the outstanding offerings of this luxurious property, its superb food and munificent hospitality. I long for an opportunity to return. I have already recommended it for its romantic setting and glorious pampering to friends considering a Southern African honeymoon.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury wilderness lodge

Communications There was no mobile phone service in the area. Short-wave radio was the lodge’s main means of communication. A satellite phone was available for emergencies. For guests with their own laptop, there was good WiFi Internet access in the main lodge.

General Manager Johan van der Merwe and the Lodge Manager is Florence Potgieter

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location In the southern Delta; a 20-minute flight by light airplane from Maun the main gateway into Botswana’s safari areas.

Owned-Managed &Beyond, previously known as Conservation Corporation Africa (CC Africa), with headquarters in Johannesburg, South Africa, owned and managed the property. At the time of this writing &Beyond itself is owned by two major shareholders, Capricorn (the Enthoven family, originally from South Africa) and the Getty Family Trust.

Power The camp had diesel-generated power . The tents had electric lighting and air-conditioning, and sufficient power to charge batteries for cameras, computers and other electronic devices.

Size The 18.5 acre (7.5 hectare) camp consisted of nine guest suites capable of accommodating up to 18 guests. It employed a staff of 35, including four guides and four trackers.

Year Open-Renovated Xudum was built in 2008. It was inaugurated and opened for guests in August 2008.

Lobby And Common Areas The dramatic tri-level main lodge offered a panoramic view of the Delta. It consisted of three spacious lounges, one on each level. On the middle level, a state-of-the-art kitchen faced an open deck with indoor-outdoor dining and seating areas. To the right of the deck, a staircase led up to an upper lounge under thatched roof that doubled as an observation deck and dining area, and to the lower-level lounge and bar. Flooring was dark hardwood throughout. To the left of the central deck, a few steps led down to a campfire pit surrounded with director chairs. The lower-level lounge bar was built into the wood-paneled back wall. Seating was a combination of sectional and straight contemporary tuxedo-style sofas, upholstered in anthracite gray cotton with coordinated toss pillows. The sofas were arranged around a grouping of occasional tables made from an assortment of reclaimed African stools and various metal containers. A modern chrome and green canvas swing armchair teamed up with a tire swing side table, both hanging from a ceiling beam. Credenzas and benches were made of distressed painted wood. Rustic African wood carvings surrounded a contemporary black and white wall-size photograph of the Delta to complete the décor.

On the middle level, seating area was a dark gray wicker and chrome sofa framed by matching armchairs with light brown toss pillows, arranged around a glass-topped coffee table. End tables were constructed of brown-lacquered soda cans. A line of rough-hewn natural wood logs stood against the back of the sofa to serve as a credenza. The dining room was furnished with square tables, their white wooden tops set on various reclaimed bases. Dining chairs were of gray molded resin and chrome. The upper level lounge followed the theme of the lower levels with two gray upholstered sofas facing each other across a distressed white bench coffee table. In a corner, a table with four resin chairs could be used as a writing table or set for intimate dining.

Bathroom Two steps down from the bedroom, the bathroom ran the width of the suite. Its grand proportions (290 square feet or 27 square meters) dwarfed the oversized free-standing bathtub and the open shower with its large recycled tin backsplash. The double-length sink topped by two square wood-framed mirrors and chrome wall sconces with square parchment shades rested against a paneled partition. It separated the bathroom from the water closet with flush toilet, and from a walk-in storage area with clothes-hanging space and shelves. All bathroom fixtures were made of white porcelain. The rear mesh panel of the bathroom slid open onto a large wooden deck with an outdoor shower and plunge pool overlooking the bush.

Room My 1,625 square foot (151 square meter) suite, Number Three, was a two-story structure with terrazzo and thatch roofing and wrap-around veranda. The outer walls were made of mesh screening with brown sliding canvas privacy panels. The floors were dark polished wood covered with gray jute runners and throw rugs. The sliding front door opened onto a long foyer. A wood-paneled partition with a long built-in credenza, topped by a wall-size black and white areal photograph of the Delta flanked by two wall sconces, separated it from the bedroom. On the left, the foyer led into a seating area with a tuxedo sofa upholstered in gray cotton and a polished wood coffee table. Two end tables were glass slabs supported by stacked tires. In the corner, a brown-lacquered metal drum held bar utensils and three black leather boxes filled with snacks. An ice chest covered in black canvas held ice and an assortment of cold drinks. On the right, the foyer opened onto the sleeping area where a king-size bed facing the bush was draped in cappuccino-colored linen. The drapes could be drawn to double as mosquito netting fully enclosing the bed and the two bedside tables topped by sconces that matched those in the foyer. The overhead air conditioning unit was remote-controlled. Bedding was white high-count cotton with brown embroidered trim. A sidewall alcove had a built-in writing desk with a square, wood-framed wall mirror to double as a dressing table and a bench seat.

The rear and side exterior mesh partitions slid open, allowing access to the deck that ran along the rear of the suite and wrapped around the right side of it to form a deep veranda. The veranda was furnished with a large circular sofa made of a gray wicker base and brown canvas upholstered cushions. Near the entrance door to the suite an outdoor staircase led to a second floor thatched deck. At the center of the space, a queen-size platform bed with a thick mattress was covered in brown canvas and a profusion of matching pillows. The deck was surrounded with brown linen draperies that could be drawn for privacy and mosquito protection. A ceiling fan hung from the peak of the ceiling.

Food In the interactive, open kitchen, guests were welcome to step in and take part in food preparation or observe as they wished. The food was worthy of a starred restaurant.

A breakfast buffet was served before the morning game drive. It included cereals, yoghurts, fruit, and freshly baked breads with fruit juices, tea and coffee. Full English breakfast was available on demand. Lunch was served at individual tables, each set with assorted meat dishes and salads, breads and a tray of well-ripened cheeses. Teatime was around 4 PM, prior to departure for afternoon activities. It was a combination of savory snacks and cakes with tea, coffee and juice. The three-course dinner was formally served plated and featured a choice of entrees, usually a choice of meat, game or fish main course, and a vegetarian option. Deserts were decadent offerings such as an excellent, rich but light chocolate mousse or poached fruit on a bed of brandied crème anglaise .

Amenities Xudum offered an exceptional array of amenities. The sitting area had a bottle of house cordial, assorted drinking glasses, an ice bucket filled with ice cubes, stacked boxes filled with cashews, dry mangoes and banana chips, fresh lime on a cutting board with knife. An ice chest held bottled water, soft drinks, white wine and beer. There was a box of tissues and a folder with an assortment of stationary on the desk and an intercom handset for communicating with the main lodge. Upper deck amenities included binoculars, a copy of Birds of Southern Africa (Ian Sinclair, Phil Hockey & Warwick Tarboron), a deck of playing cards and backgammon and scrabble games.

In the bathroom there was a hair-dryer, a generous supply of thick cotton bath and hand towels, washcloths, two each blue and white cotton sarongs, white cotton bathrobes and slippers, and black pool towels. The shower and sink area had face soap, laundry soap, bath soap, pump bottles of body scrub, bath oil, shampoo, conditioner and body moisturizing cream, shower caps, cotton balls and cotton swabs. Votive candles were arranged around the room. The storage closet had an electronic safe large enough to accommodate a laptop computer in addition to smaller valuables. There was mosquito and insect repellent spray, two high-density flashlights, an emergency horn and two golf umbrellas. A wicker tote bag was filled with exercise equipment, including a yoga mat, Pilates elastic ropes, and sets of two and five pound free weights.

All meal, soft drinks and house alcoholic beverages were included, as were all daily game viewing activities, and daily laundry service. Top brand alcoholic beverages such as vintage wines, French champagnes and luxury whiskies where available for an additional charge.

Gift Shop There was a well-stocked gift boutique within the main lodge area. It carried an assortment of chic Xudum-branded safari wear, a variety of souvenirs, mainly local wood carvings, wrought-iron knickknacks, baskets and jewelry, and a few safari-related books.

Spa Although Xudum didn’t have a dedicated spa facility, there was licensed masseuse on staff who offered a range of treatment options, including Swedish and aromatherapy massages in guest suites.

Swimming Pool My suite had a private 6 foot x 14 foot (1.8 meter x 4.25 meter) plunge pool overlooking the bush.

Game Viewing While at Xudum I saw: elephant, hippo, Cape buffalo, giraffe, zebra, lechwe, bushbuck, steenbok and side-striped jackal. Bird sightings included: spurwing goose Pel’s fishing owl, giant eagle owl, African fish eagle, brown snake eagle ground hornbill, great grey shrike, black-bellied korhaan, black-billed buffalo weaver, swallow tail bee eater, southern black tit, black-collared barbet and reed warbler.

Activities In addition to game and bird viewing drives in open land cruisers through the varied landscape of the Delta, the twice-daily activities included river cruises in electrically powered “eco-boats” or mokoros (flat dug-out canoes commonly used to navigate the Okavango waterways) and bush walks through the riverine forest around the camp.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit October 2009

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service Excellent. Every member of the management and staff I met was thoughtful, enthusiastic and eager to please. Attention to details was outstanding. My suite was serviced three times daily.

Overall Impression Haina Kalahari Lodge gave me an immediate sense of home, a delightful but puzzling first impression from a place tucked in a remote conservancy at the northern edge of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (a 20,386 square mile, 52,800 square kilometer, semi-arid immensity roughly the size of Switzerland; and the second largest game reserve in the world after Tanzania’s Selous). The reason became obvious once I found out that this oasis of laid-back luxury in the heart of some of the harshest wilderness in Southern Africa was originally intended, and functioned for a decade, as a private multi-family holiday retreat before it began to welcome guests in 2007.

The warm welcome and thoughtful attentions of management and staff made me feel like a personal friend whose preferences were promptly catered to. Not only was I remembered by name by everyone from the moment I arrived, but seemingly trivial details were immediately noted, such as how I preferred my tea, or where I liked to settle to tend to my e-mail. On my second morning at Haina, I found a card table and chair set for me at the exact spot I had favored the previous day.

Game watching around Haina exceeded my expectations. One especially memorable day started with a cheetah stalking an impala for its breakfast, and after many sightings of smaller predators, antelope and birds, ended with a thrilling encounter. We had stopped near a quiet waterhole for a relaxed sundowner break when a powerful growl erupted nearby. It amplified to a full-blown roar that made the air around us vibrate as it rippled through the bush; a stern notice that we were trespassing! Our unflappable guide Mike Itatolneng calmly motioned us to return to the land cruiser. Instants later we were slowly driving in the direction where the sound had originated. We soon came across two male Kalahari lions with their distinctive black-tipped mane, lounging under a thorn acacia. We observed each other for endless minutes before they became bored with us and regally vanished into the bush.

Another unforgettable experience of my visit was a daylong drive to Deception Valley, the dusty bed of a river that meandered through the area some 16,000 years ago. Today only the illusion of water remains, in startling mirages that can be observed in the distance. Game viewing, mainly antelopes and birds on the day we visited, was remarkably abundant for such an arid land. We visited the area where American Zoologists Mark and Delia Owens had lived in tents during their seven-year research sojourn on Kalahari lions and brown hyena (their findings were later chronicled in their book Cry of the Kalahari, which had kindled my interest to this little known area when it was first published a quarter of a century ago).

For me, Haina Kalahari Lodge proved an ideal place to settle in and explore at leisure the unique environment of the Central Kalahari. Because of the seclusion of the accommodations, which also included a dedicated Family Tent, and the flexibility of the staff, it was a family-friendly lodge where children of all ages could be accommodated without negative impact to other guests. I was only aware that one such family with three small children was visiting while I was there because, having noticed the well-mannered youngsters by the pool, I chose to enjoy time in their company. I will recommend Haina to any Kalahari-bound friends, regardless of the demographic composition of their party.

Camp Managers Jacques and Chantal Nel

Class Of Accommodation Luxury wilderness lodge

Communications Reliable satellite WiFi Internet access was available at the main lodge. Satellite phone was available for emergencies. There was no mobile phone service in the area.

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Four nights

Location On the northern border of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve in the center of Botswana, 105 miles (170 kilometers) south of Maun.

Owned-Managed The lodge was privately owned by Jannie Rautenbach and Andre Du Preez, and Drs. Heloise Smit, Johan Venter and Tom Meyer. Deon Cuyler was general manager.

Power Electricity was solar-generated throughout the lodge, with a back-up diesel generator for emergencies.

Size The lodge occupied a 10-acre (four hectare) area within the 27,000-acre (11,000 hectare) conservancy. It consisted of 10 guest tents capable of accommodating up to 22 guests. It employed a staff of 22 including two guides and two rangers.

Transportation It was an easy 30-minute flight by bush plane from Maun airport, the main gateway into Botswana’s safari areas, to Haina’s private airstrip. Flights could be arranged through the lodge, that also provided transportation to and from the airstrip. Haina could also be reached by road from Maun with a four-wheel drive vehicle. The drive was said to take approximately three hours. Getting around the property and the conservancy was either by land cruiser, quad bikes or on foot.

Year Open-Renovated Haina was built in 1998 as a private retreat for the five owners. It was renovated and opened to guests in 2007.

Lobby And Common Areas Under a soaring thatched roof, the main lodge was an inviting oasis of laid-back modern African comfort: a stylish contemporary environment with soft leather sofas, beautifully crafted African woodwork, a modern bar with beverage refrigerator, solar-generated electricity and an efficient WiFi Internet connection. The lounge opened onto a large sundeck and a crystalline salt-water swimming pool (bore-holes in the Kalahari tend to produce salt water). To the rear of the lodge an open-air lounge overlooked a small waterhole ideally located for armchair game and bird-watching. A large boma (fenced-in enclosure) housed a campfire pit and separate grill for cooking and dining under the stars. The superbly appointed guest tents were sited for total privacy, none visible from any other structure within the property.

An expansive hardwood platform under a peaked thatched roof held by rough-hewn tree-trunks formed the main lodge. It housed the lounge on the right side of the entrance steps, with the library on the left. The dining area and bar were to the rear. The décor throughout was contemporary African style: modern furniture mingled with African occasional pieces and art. The structure was opened on three sides to overlook a large fenced courtyard in the front, with the sundeck and pool area to the right and the open-air lounge and boma to the rear.

In the lounge area, two tan leather sofas and three matching cocoa brown armchairs were arranged around a square wooden coffee table. A long brown leather banquette flanked by two black African carved barrel end tables completed the seating arrangement. Toss pillows were made of local textile with natural geometric designs on black and brown background. Behind the rear sofa, a long credenza held the all-day coffee and tea service, and a large jar of home-baked cookies. The library featured two overstuffed loveseats covered in natural canvas, and two leather armchairs matching those in the living room. They were arranged around a rectangular wooden coffee table on a cowhide throw rug. Tall glassed-in cases held a variety of books on local flora, fauna and safari-related topics, and a small display of local artifacts. The dining area had a long, family-style wooden table surrounded with matching chairs. Along the back wall, a tall glass-fronted beverage refrigerator formed a backdrop for the bar. Next to it, a long built-in counter served as a buffet table for breakfast and lunch.

Bathroom The beautifully appointed bathroom occupied the rear of the tent, with both back corners enclosed by wooden partitions and bamboo doors. The right enclosure housed the flush commode. The left corner held the shower, with both outer partitions glassed-in for a floor-to-ceiling view of the bush. A tall storage armoire sat on the front outer side of each enclosure. A bamboo ladder leaned against the wall to serve as a towel rack. At the center rear of the tent, a teak double vanity with a marble top held two glazed pottery sinks topped by twin mirrors and a magnifying mirror. A deep, freestanding white porcelain bathtub sat in the center of the room, fitted in a black wood pedestal. A matching black wooden shelf placed across the top of the tub held an assortment of toiletries.

Room My 580 square foot (54 square meter) superior luxury tent under thatch, Pangolin, had a deep front veranda with an African carved chaise, a square wooden table and two director chairs. The chaise was my favorite spot to doze off in the heat of the afternoon, lulled by the sounds of the bush. From the veranda, a center-zippered opening led into the wide, airy tent with an open floor plan. On each side, three net-screened windows allowed the light to filter in and enhance the elegant black and white color scheme. The floor was dark hardwood with black cowhide patchwork throw rugs. The furniture was of dark polished wood. In the center of the tent, the king-size canopied bed draped in white mosquito netting faced the veranda. The headboard and two bedside tables with their netting backdrop formed a visual divider between the sleeping area and the bathroom. On the backside of the bed’s headboard, a long dressing table with a bench seat doubled as a writing desk. A long black leather bench outlined the foot of the bed. In the front corners of the tent, two armchairs with black and white graphic cushions provided indoor seating. A butler tray held a full coffee and tea service. At night, lighting was provided by two tall bedside lamps with square burlap shades.

Food All meals were served either in the main lodge’s dining area or poolside, starting with a buffet-style continental breakfast or full English breakfast on demand prior to the morning game drive. Lunch was served buffet-style, and dinner was plated. The food was consistently delicious. The three-course dinner usually started with soup followed by a main course of meat (usually local beef or game) and fresh vegetables. A vegetarian option was available. Twice during my visit, dinner was a barbecue, with General Manager Deon Cuyler overseeing the proceedings.

Amenities Room amenities included daily laundry, a full coffee and tea service including a tin of biscotti, a thermos bottle of iced water and bottled water. A small butane burner and a stainless-steel teapot allowed for freshly brewed tea or instant coffee. There was an electronic safe and a basket holding mosquito and insect repellent, a flashlight and an emergency horn in one of the armoires. Bathroom amenities included two bathrobes and slippers, a box of tissues, a stack of bath and hand towels, face cloths, face soap, laundry soap, and pump bottles of body wash, shampoo, conditioner and body moisturizing cream. Votive candles were arranged around the room. A walkie-talkie allowed me to communicate between the tent and the main lodge.

All meals, soft drinks and alcoholic beverages were included, as were all daily game viewing and desert experience activities.

Pool The 13 foot x 23 foot (four by seven meter) swimming pool sat in the center of a large, sun-drenched deck. Four wooden lounge chairs with green and white-striped cushions and rolled pool towels were lined on the deck. On the far side of the pool, a long dining table surrounded with folding teak chairs sat under a thatched awning. Most meals were served there during my stay.

Game Viewing Game I sighted included: lion, cheetah, black-backed jackal, spotted hyena, warthog, ground squirrel, steenbok antelope, gemsbok, impala, springbok, blue wildebeest, eland, kudu, oryx, giraffe, zebra. Birds included: black and crested korhaan, blacksmith plover, tawny eagle, rufous-napped lark, ostrich, greater kestrel, yellow, red and grey hornbill, spotted dikkop, painted snipe, white-crowned and crimson-breasted shrike, black-shouldered kite, ant-eating chat, pale chanting goshawk, Namaqua sandgrouse, red-billed stilt, swallow tail bee-eater, bateleur eagle, lilac-breasted roller.

Activities In addition to twice-daily game drives in open land cruisers, activities included a visit to a bushmen camp on the conservancy. The bushmen shared with us some of the details of their daily lives and identified the roots and plants they harvested for food and medicine. They also demonstrated for us one of their traditional rain dances. Daylong excursions in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, including Deception Valley, were available. This was an activity that I especially enjoyed.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit October 2009

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service Excellent. Every member of the management and staff was attentive and thoughtful. My tent was serviced twice daily. Laundry service was especially prompt and with every piece returned meticulously ironed.

Would You Stay There Again Yes

Overall Impression The single propeller plane had been droning for almost one hour over some of the flattest, emptiest land I had ever seen. Swirls of gleaming salt pans and dusty sand banks stretched to infinity, baked by a merciless sun. The pilot nodded to the right. “Jack’s Camp,” he informed me, dipping the wing to give me a better look. Beneath me a palm and acacia-studded oasis was emerging from the stark Kalahari wilderness. Large green safari tents were scattered among high savannah grass, hinting of creature comforts. Could this be a mirage?

One dirt-strip landing and a short, rocky drive later, the mirage suspicion lingered as I was escorted up a few stairs into the tented pavilions that formed the camp’s hub. Walls and ceilings were draped with softly faded cinnamon-colored paisley cotton. Mellow oriental rugs were scattered on polished teak floors. Spacious lounges flowed into each other, decorated in a safari style that harked back to East African colonial opulence. There was a library, a bar with an antique pool table and a well-stocked drinks chest, as well as a dining room with a long mahogany table that could easily seat a dozen. The walls were lined with natural history drawings, century-old photographs and engravings of long ago safari scenes. Display cases were filled with museum-quality local artifacts. It took a conscious effort to remind myself that I was in the Kalahari, and the 21st century.

The day’s activities were thoughtfully adapted to the experience of desert life. My guide, Super, was an easygoing 20-year veteran of the Kalahari whose name said it all. Under his competent guidance, sunrise found me quietly waiting for a community of meerkats to emerge from their multiple burrows. Although wild, these gregarious squirrel-sized mongooses were sufficiently habituated to humans to allow me to walk among them. I was able to closely observe the play of their young and their rituals as they set out on their daily foraging for insects, fruit and lizards. I had the pleasure to join Cobra, a Zu/’hoasi bushman elder, member of one of the oldest cultures on the planet, for a nature walk. I gaped at the sight of the Chapman’s baobab, a giant with a seven-pillar trunk 85 feet (25 meters) in diameter. One of the largest and oldest baobabs in Africa (estimated to be close to 4,000 years old), it is impressive not merely for its girth, but also for its historical significance. Several great 19th century explorers, including David Livingstone, used it as a landmark on their journeys across the Pans. Their initials can still be seen carved upon its rock-like bark.

The most unforgettable experience of my visit to Jack’s Camp was a sunset ride deep into the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. Super led our small caravan of quad bikes (their balloon tires only skim the fragile crusty surface where heavier vehicles would sink) to what was truly the middle of nowhere. I reverently watched the copper sun slide from the cloudless sky behind the gleaming line of the horizon. With the rising moon, the surface of the Pan turned ghostly white. I lay down on my back and stared up. In this otherworldly space, unchanged for millennia, my eyes filled with countless stars, and my ears with the deepest silence I had ever known.

While the expert guiding staff ensured that I experienced to the fullest the unique wonders of the Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pan National Park, my enjoyment of Jack’s Camp was exponentially increased by the exquisite comfort of the accommodations and the quality of service delivered by the friendly, polished household staff. This opinion appeared unanimously shared by the variety of guests I met at the camp. From the honeymooning couple from Norway to the Australian family with pre-teen children and the multi-national friends’ reunion, all declared themselves delighted to have chosen Jack’s Camp. As did I.

Camp Manager Meshack Jack

Class Of Accommodation Luxury wilderness camp

Communications Satellite phone was available for emergencies. Communications to the Unchartered Africa office were via shortwave radio. There was no mobile phone or Internet service in the area.

Handicapped Access No

Length Of Stay Three nights

Location In the Kalahari Desert of Botswana. Jack’s Camp overlooked the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans’ western basin, on the eastern side of the Makgadikgadi and Nxai Pan National Park.

Owned-Managed The camp was owned and managed by Unchartered Africa Safari Co., a company owned and operated by Ralph Bousfield and Catherine Raphaely.

Power Lighting was by paraffin lamps throughout the camp. A diesel diesel-powered generator operated during the day to provide electricity for battery-powered cameras and computers. The charging station was in the main tent.

Size Secluded within a 20,000-acre (8,000-hectare) private concession the five-acre (two hectare) camp consisted of 10 guest tents capable of accommodating up to 20 guests. It employed a staff of 40 including six guides.

Transportation It was a one-hour flight by bush plane from Maun, the main gateway into Botswana’s safari areas. Flights were arranged through the camp with Flying Mission, who had exclusive landing rights to the Jack’s Camp airstrip. Jack’s Camp provided transportation to and from the airstrip. Getting around the Pans was either by land cruiser, quad bikes or on foot.

Year Open-Renovated The site was established in the 1960’s as a basic camp by Jack Bousfield, the father of the current owner and the camp’s namesake. It was expanded in 1992 and fully refurbished in 2003.

Lobby And Common Areas The main tent was a suite of interconnected canvas pavilions that created a spacious and intimate environment. From the sandy access path, three wide stairs led to a rectangular central tent that housed the entrance foyer in the front, the dining area and the rear exit foyer. The entrance foyer had four folding armchairs lined on each side, upholstered alternately in taupe damask and tan leather. The foyer opened onto the dining area where a long mahogany table was surrounded by green canvas director chairs. To the back of the dining area, a large antique trunk served as a credenza and space divider to the rear foyer which doubled as a pantry, with a buffet table on one side and a large map chest on the opposite. Above both, groupings of historic photographs remembered the life of the late Jack Bousfield.

On both sides of the dining tent wide hallways led to circular pavilions. The galleries were lined with tall glassed-in display cases filled with artifacts of the desert, and bookcases that held a collection of volumes on Southern Africa fauna, flora and natural history. The pavilion to the right of the main tent was the lounge. It was furnished with an antique bar chest and a matching trunk that concealed a refrigerator, and a billiard table. A large display case was home to a mounted aardvark. Green canvas director chairs were lined around the walls. The pavilion to the left of the dining tent housed the library, where a number of comfortable folding armchairs and couches upholstered in crimson velvet and leather invited visitors to settle in. Against the back wall, a display case held a mounted full-grown lioness. The entire front of both pavilions was open to a view of the Pan, with. Each had a swinging daybed hanging from the ceiling. These made lovely lounging spot to enjoy the sights and sounds of the desert. Throughout the common areas, clusters of antique photographs, natural history drawings and etchings decorated the walls. At night, the entire space was bathed in the romantic glow of paraffin lanterns.

Bathroom The bathroom occupied the rear quarter of the tent. It was a startling reproduction of what I imagined the ultimate safari bathroom of old to have been. All the fittings and the washbasin were copper, buffed to a flawless shine. The shower enclosure had a carved wood backdrop and a wooden slats floor. It was surrounded by white canvas shower curtains. A tall green canvas and mahogany shelf held a stack of bath towels. The copper washbasin was set in a wooden vanity with a top panel that closed when not in use; when opened it revealed the bathroom mirror. The commode took pride of place, a large high-back wooden armchair with a tooled-leather seat that closed over the porcelain fixture. It brought to mind the chaise percée (chair with a pierced seat) found in the water closets of historic European castles. The flushing mechanism was the classic overhead water tank with pull chain. The rear of the tent opened to a reed-walled enclosure with an outdoor shower.

Room My 470 square-foot (44 square-meter) tent, Number One, matched the classic safari décor of the common areas , from faded rose cotton-lined walls to oriental rugs on polished teak flooring underfoot. Antique furnishings included twin four-poster beds with rose and taupe scalloped canopies and cool high-count cotton bedding. The beds occupied the back of the tent on either side of a zippered partition leading to the bathroom. Butler’s trays served as bedside tables. An exotic wood trunk and a bench covered in white and red flowered chintz outlined the foot of the beds. The trunk served as base for a glass display case holding small desert artifacts. At the front of the tent, a folding armchair upholstered in cinnabar velvet, a brass tray on a stand and a carved wooden footstool formed an inviting sitting area. A similar armchair covered in taupe damask provided seating for a desk set against the left wall. The desk held a mirrored triptych to double as a dressing table. There was a tall bureau against the left wall. Framed safari etchings, and brass and pottery bowls completed the décor. The front-zippered entrance of the tent opened onto a private veranda where a period wrought iron lounge chair with tan leather cushions and two green canvas director chairs offered a lovely harbor to while away the scorching hours of the afternoon and contemplate the rugged Pan scenery.

Food The day started with wake-up tea or coffee delivered to my tent with freshly baked cookies in a full silver service. All meals were served in the dining tent, starting with the buffet-style continental breakfast, or full English breakfast on demand, prior to departure for the morning game drive. Lunch and dinner were served plated. The food was wholesome and well prepared. The three-course dinner usually started with a soup followed by a main course of meat (often Botswana beef or local game such as ostrich or kudu) and deliciously fresh grilled vegetables. A vegetarian option was available. Desserts were tempting classics, such as orange tarts or chocolate mousse.

Amenities Room amenities included daily laundry, thermos of chilled drinking water, a plate with three fresh apples, mosquito and insect control spray, a flashlight, an emergency horn and two kikois. The later are large, lightweight cotton shawls that can be used as head and face protection gear (Laurence of Arabia-style) during quad bike rides, or soaked in water before covering yourself with them, to keep cool during the heat of the day. Bathroom amenities included bath and hand towels, face cloths, face soap, cotton swabs, cotton balls, laundry soap, and pump bottles of body wash, shampoo, conditioner and body moisturizing cream.

All meals, soft drinks and alcoholic beverages were included, as were all daily game viewing and desert activities.

Pool The 13 x 30-foot (four by nine meter) swimming pool was startlingly chilly under its tented roof. It sat in the center of a wooden deck surrounded with padded lounge chairs arranged to overlook the bush. For a warmer dip, a separate plunge pool at the far end of the property offered an open sky vantage point to contemplate the shimmering stillness of the Pans.

Game Viewing As the intent of my visit was to experience the unique eco-system of the Kalahari Salt Pans, I was not expecting to find much game in the desert when I visited in October (the end of the dry season). I was mistaken. Abundant rains had uncharacteristically fallen during the week prior to my arrival. The desert was lush with new grass and flowers, and the famed zebra and blue wildebeest migration (the second largest in Africa after the Serengeti, and the only remaining in Southern Africa) had begun. Both species could be seen by the hundreds. Meanwhile, I also enjoyed the unusual sight of flocks of ostriches strutting along with large broods of hatchlings.

Game I sighted included: aardvark, African wildcat, black-backed jackal, bat-eared fox, meerkat, yellow mongoose, ground squirrel, steenbok, springbok, blue wildebeest, zebra, kudu, oryx. Birds included: black korhaan, blacksmith plover, tawny eagle, rufous-napped lark, ostrich, greater kestrel, Bradfield’s hornbill, grey hornbill, lappet-faced vulture, white-backed vulture, pied crow, Marshall eagle, ant-eating chat, pale chanting goshawk, Namaqua sandgrouse, red-billed stilt, spoonbill stork.

Activities In addition to twice-daily game drives in open land cruisers, activities included bush walks with local Zu/’hoasi bushmen and quad bike rides into the heart of the Makgadikgadi Salt Pan.

Other Jack’s Camp was registered as a museum with the Botswana Government, and thus allowed to collect and display artifacts. Displays included an eclectic selection of items such as stone tools, fossils of extinct mega-fauna (i.e. giant zebra), historic etchings, maps and a collection of Bushman beadwork.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date Of Last Visit October 2009

Reviewers Article and photographs by Josette King

Service Excellent. Every member of the staff was unfailingly friendly, attentive and always available to fulfill my requests. Food service had the elegance of a posh urban establishment. My tent was serviced twice daily.

Would You Stay There Again? Yes