Overall Impression When we visited the Chobe Game Reserve in Botswana, as part of a Desert & Delta Safaris itinerary, we stayed at the Savute Safari Lodge. Since it was our second visit to the property in a decade we noticed significant differences in the property itself, the reserve and the general game viewing conditions. As on our previous visit, we liked the Savute Safari Lodge’s game viewing opportunities as well as its luxury spacious waterhole facing rooms. Thanks to the comfort oriented and stylish design of the glass and thatch tents and their waterhole views they were our favorite rooms during that six property circuit in Botswana and Namibia.

Dry conditions at the time of our visit meant animals from near and far walked to the manmade waterholes in front of our property, providing excellent game viewing opportunities within the camp. In addition, the wild animals were surprisingly relaxed. Such was the appeal of the rooms that but for the sweltering summer heat we might have been tempted to forgo the game drives to remain in our rooms and enjoy the view of the wildlife that strolled by in search of water.

The property was named Savute for the unpredictable character of the channel that passed through its midst. In the past, it had suddenly dried up for years, and for no apparent reason flowed again years later. In the time since our previous visit to the lodge the rooms had been gussied up and were even prettier than we remembered. The river, dry during our stay, had flowed for a while before our return, drawing regional and international visitors, and prompting the establishment of new properties. That was reflected in crowded conditions within the park. Every encounter meant multiple vehicles and brief sightings to make room for those awaiting their opportunity. It also resulted in shared sun downer locations where several vehicles parked adjacent to each other. Such conditions, something we had not experienced before in Botswana, reminded us of a theme park ambiance rather than the remoteness we longed for in our travels to the Botswana bush.

It was uncomfortably hot with hardly any respite for the entire duration of our stay. Daytime temperatures reached 45 Celsius (113 Fahrenheit). The property relied on daytime generator power as its sole source of energy, and was not equipped for the intense heatwave that blanketed the region. Although a dip in the pool was cooling there was limited shade in the pool deck and nowhere else that was less hot. Sitting in the over heated tents, which remained closed most of the day, was almost as unpleasant as sitting outdoors.

We enjoyed good game viewing sightings of three of the Big Five while at the property. In addition to the rooms, we liked the cooling pool, the best place to spend the mid afternoon hours when the heat peaked. We looked forward to the tasty food at meal times when we shared tables with fellow travelers from our vehicles as well as other property guests. We might return to Savute Safari Lodge in a cooler shoulder season in search of quality game viewing and fewer crowds.

Children Families with children six and older were welcome. They rode in game viewing vehicles and participated in activities with other guests. The property usually requested that they book private vehicles, according to a representative. During our stay, there was a large family with three boisterous small children. They ran screaming along the pathways and in the common areas, including at meal times when they played on the platform railing.

Class of Accommodation Luxury Tents

General Manager Bruce Petty. During our visit Kenny, Onka, Taz, and Unami shared management duties.

Handicapped Access The lodge welcomed handicapped guests. A representative explained that guests in wheelchairs would be able to move around rooms and pathways that were wheelchair friendly.

Length of Stay Three nights

Location The concession was in the southwestern corner of the Chobe Game Reserve. We flew in via a bush charter flight from the previous Desert & Delta Safaris property in our circuit. Our guide picked us up at the airstrip and drove us to the property with other guests from our flight.

Managed Desert & Delta Safaris

Owned Chobe Holdings Limited. As of August 2015, the directors of Chobe Holdings Limited, a company incorporated in Botswana, were P. M. Van Riet-Lowe, chairman, J. M. Gibson, deputy chairman and chief executive officer, J. A. Bescoby, A. D. Chilisa, B. D. Flatt, R. Gerrard , K. Ledimo, J.M. Nganunu-Macharia, D. S. Ter Haar, and A. M. Whitehouse.

Size The five hectare property had 12 rooms, 37 employees, including six guides, and five safari vehicles

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation The property opened in 1999. Between 2008 and 2009 the entire lodge was renovated.

Lobby and Common Areas The property was decorated in a contemporary safari style. In the main building, there was a partially open computer room above the bar with a shelf that housed a dozen or two fiction books and a handful of board games. There was also a bar and sitting area, a curio shop, the staff office and a dining room where we had breakfast each morning. A short pathway from the main building led to a deck with a waterhole facing dining area and next to it a swimming pool. One of the most attractive features of the property was the sandy bush area it faced and its night lit man made water holes that drew animals, especially elephants from afar during the dry season.

Bathrooms A wood door lead from the living area into the bathroom. A toilet took up the corner next to a Corian base and ceramic sink with dual hot and cold water faucets beneath a wood framed rectangular mirror. The walls were tiled in white. The doorless shower enclosure was half glass and half wall with a deck and bush view.

Rooms I loved the rooms, especially the expansive views and deck looking out onto the waterholes. We stayed in 7.8 meter by 4.85 meter large Luxury Tents, Room 8 and Room 6, facing the waterholes. Our rooms were on opposite sides of the pool and partly open dining area where we had lunch and dinner. The predominant decorative elements were glass and thatch.

I stayed in Room 8 and my travel partner stayed in Room 6. The rooms were identical in most respects except for their location within the camp and their layout. The layout of Room 8 was a mirror image of the one for Room 6. Room 6 was the first room to the right of the main building whereas Room 8 was the second room to the left. There was a waterhole immediately in front of Room 6 so that room had outstanding direct views of the waterhole. There was a waterhole to the right of Room 8, allowing partial side views of the waterhole. Those seemed to be among the best locations in the lodge.

The second pathway from the main building lead down to my room. The pathway was uneven and at an incline requiring attention to avoid tripping. At the end of the pathway, several wood steps lead onto a wooden deck that wrapped around part of the front of the room. Triple sets of sliding glass doors faced the interior of the room. The first set opened into the sleeping area, the second into the living area and the third into the bathroom. The room had a high thatched roof and ceiling and wood floors throughout. Earth tone curtains hung over the sliding glass doors for privacy. Two sides of the room had dark brown wooden shutters. The walls had khaki textured wallpaper. Tiny bits of thatch from the ceiling fell onto the white duvet and sheets as well as on the Corian sink basin in the bathroom.

The only way to adjust the temperature was to open and close the windows and shutters and turn the fans on or off (when the generator was operating). Lighting came from battery-operated lamps and generator operated track lights. From my room I could hear the sounds of animals by the waterholes, such as the elephants trumpeting and the hyena, as well as other guests and staff around the property, especially if the fans were off.

A double bed with a wood frame, set against a half wall and sandwiched between twin glass topped designer night tables, occupied the left side of the room. Each of the night tables housed battery operated nightlights. A rectangular framed mirror hung on the wall behind the bed. A three blade fan hung from the ceiling above the bed. A mosquito net on a square wood frame hung from the ceiling also above the bed. The staff spread the mosquito netting around the bed at night. Twin khaki stools stood at the foot of the bed, serving as a luggage rack or stools. An upright fan stood in the right corner facing the bed.

Comfortable cushioned rattan armchairs took up the center of the living area facing a khaki cloth coffee table. They stood atop a black-and-white rectangular rug. A wood table and cloth armchair took up the corner next to the shutters and the sliding glass doors. An identical armchair took up the rear of the living area. A decorative lamp hung above the living room furniture. There were two wood closets painted black against the living area wall. A lock box, two umbrellas, an emergency horn, mosquito repellent, insect spray, a flashlight, and hot beverage ingredients were inside as well as hanging and shelf space.

The layout of my travel partner’s tent was reversed from mine so that the first area he reached from the pathway was the bathroom. Because the curtains were open most of the time if anyone walked onto the deck they risked a full view of the bathroom. On the plus side it meant Room 8 had a wonderful view of the waterhole from the bathroom. While my bathroom was further away from the waterhole it also had a view.

Food Meals, served buffet style, were at the same times every day. Breakfast was between 6 a.m. and 6:30 a.m., immediately before the morning activity. Brunch was immediately following the morning activity. Tea was between 3:30 p.m. and 4 p.m., immediately before the afternoon activity and dinner was at 8 p.m. Staff banged on a drum before each meal to inform us that the buffet was served and the staff were ready for us. Before dinner, several of the staff lined up, introduced themselves and described the menu for the evening. The property management worked toward serving fresh ingredients and a range of traditional and game dishes. We looked forward to meal times.

Amenities A handheld vanity mirror, cotton bathrobes, Charlotte Rhys shower caps, conditioning shampoo, shower gel, and body lotion in refillable plastic containers. There was mosquito repellent and rain ponchos in the vehicles, according to a property representative.

Facilities Pool, boma (outdoor dining enclosure), and main building with library, dining room, internet room, and bar lounge. A curio shop was adjacent to the main building.

Pool There was a gray bottomed pool on its own deck adjacent to the waterhole deck area where we had brunch and dinner. The outdoor pool was 1.5 meters deep and about 7 square meters large. The water clarity was very good. There were six cushioned lounge chairs, two large khaki canvas umbrellas, and towels in a wooden box.

Shop The curio shop sold postcards, branded fleece, women’s t-shirts, Botswana and South African bead, leather, gold plated and pewter jewelry, and sundry souvenirs ranging in price from 7.50 pula to 749 pula.

Game Viewing Gwist, our guide and driver, had nine years of experience as a guide. Game drives were on a Toyota LandCruiser with a canvas top and seating for eight in the back and one next to the driver in the front. The configuration was two in the front row and three each in the other two rows, which were slightly higher than the first row. The front and last rows had an opening on one side of the vehicle with a half step that facilitated climbing on and off. On our first two game drives there were four of us. During the remaining four game drives there were six guests. Because the park closed at sunset we had to depart immediately after our sun downer stop, heading back to the exit at a quick clip in the dimming light before the sun set completely.

During our stay we saw the following animals: buffalo, caracal, African wild cat, elephant, giraffe, hippopotamus, scrub hare, spotted hyena, impala, kudu, lion, dwarf mongoose, slender mongoose, roan antelope, tree squirrel, tsessebe, warthog, wildebeest, and zebra.

And saw or heard the following birds: crested barbet, kori bustard, Denham’s bustard, Senegal coucal, African mourning dove, red-eyed dove, fork-tailed drongo, tawny eagle, Egyptian goose, crested guineafowl, helmeted guineafowl, pallid harrier, red-billed hornbill, yellow-billed kite, northern-black korhaan, red-crested korhaan, blacksmith lapwing, red-billed oxpecker, red-billed quelea, lilac-breasted roller, purple roller, double-banded sandgrouse, common sandpiper, secretarybird, magpie shrike, southern grey-headed sparrow, chestnut-backed sparrowlark, red-billed spurfowl, Burchell’s starling, Meve’s starling, spotted thick-knee, Cape turtle-dove, shaft-tailed whydah.

We saw the following flora: baobab and common wild fig.

Activities The only activities available where twice daily game drives on very bumpy sand roads. In the morning, wake up time was at 5:30 a.m. At 6 a.m., our guide would escort us from our rooms to the dining room in the main building. We departed between 6:30 a.m. and 7 a.m., returning at about 10:30 to 11 a.m. In the afternoon, we departed at between 4 p.m. and 4:15 p.m., returning between 6:30 p.m. and 7 p.m. Viewing and photography time at each sighting was brief, often less than a minute, with the exception of elephants and lions. At those sightings we encountered as many as 11 vehicles at times, each angling for a view of the animals. More than once another vehicle blocked us or someone else in our own vehicle blocked our review. Due to the brief viewing time there were no second opportunities for viewing or photos. Our guide was focused on locating predators and large game such as elephants.

In case of rain during a drive the guide assessed the intensity of the rainfall to decide whether to continue or not. According to a spokesperson it was quite rare for an activity to be called off because of rain.

Other Water for the property was sourced from a well. Although we liked the conservation minded concept behind the refillable non thermos metallic bottles the staff provided us on arrival at a previous Desert & Delta Safaris property, in practice the idea did not work well. Our gravest complaint was that the water chilled from the cooler became warm within minutes. Also, carrying the bottles from our rooms to refill them in the main building was inconvenient, especially during the rest period between activities when it was hot and uncomfortable everywhere and we sought water to lower our body temperature and quench our thirst and after sundown when we could only walk around with a staff escort. Refilling our bottles also required queuing up at the single water cooler when everyone was preparing for departure.

The property ran on generator power. Usually, it was on between 5 a.m. and the time the last guest retired. That meant the fans and regular lights stopped when the generator was off. There were battery operated lights for the evening. As part of the turn down service the staff closed the sliding glass doors in the room. Due to the lack of ventilation the temperature rose, especially on a hot day when the sun beat on my room all the afternoon. When I asked why they closed the sliding glass doors at night even though it made the room hotter the staff member explained that there was a danger that a predator, such as a leopard or a hyena, might venture into the room and mosquito screens would be no obstacle. One night during our stay staff kept the generator running all night so that the fans in our rooms would work. It was a welcome respite from the sweltering heat.

The lodge had received a Trip Advisor 2015 Certificate of Excellence. In the past, the lodge had been eco-certified by Botswana Tourism Organisation.

Cleanliness Very good

Date of Last Visit November 2015

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Staff, especially management staff, were welcoming and efficient. My room was serviced twice per day, in the morning during our game drives someone made up the bed and picked up the laundry. In the afternoon, while we were on the game drive, someone delivered the laundry, brought departure papers and prepared the bed with mosquito netting. My cleaning lady was Ineeleng.

Connectivity There was no cell phone service within the property. There was one computer shared by all guests in the main building. It had slow internet connectivity (one megabyte, 1-100 kilobytes per second).

Would You Stay Again? Maybe in a cool season

Overall Impression The Chobe Game Lodge’s prime location facing north on the southern bank of the Chobe River within Botswana’s Chobe National Park, known for its outstanding game viewing, was the main reason we went there. By the time we arrived at the lodge after 15 days in the bush during an unexpected heat wave, we appreciated it as much for its thrice daily game viewing offerings as for its luxury features. Before we reached the lodge, most of our trip was spent in bush properties with only generator power for electricity, no air conditioning, and one shared computer for all guests with a painfully slow connection. We especially appreciated the property’s creature comforts and amenities and were pleased to find it had some WiFi connectivity. It was an ideal place to end our safari circuit on a high note.

We liked the newly renovated modern rooms, the property’s easy river access and views of the river from its elevated walkway, where welcome bubbly drinks, tea and lunch were sometimes served. The main building had a cozy bar and ample space to spread out as well as an inviting outdoor swimming pool, a fitness room and a spa room with several treatment options. The well stocked gift shop was the largest of all the gift shops we visited that trip.

Three safari activities each day scheduled between meals left little down time, yet we squeezed every experience we could into the day. Sometimes, there were not enough hours for my ambitions. For example, in order to have a massage or work out I had to skip a meal or a safari outing. In compromise I chose a massage and skipped one of the morning boat rides since our previous accommodations at its sister property had been all about boat rides.

From the elevated deck we enjoyed expansive views of the river, including some sightings of elephant herds (from among the 45,000 elephants said to make their home in the park) as they raced down to the water. It was a special treat to watch them, albeit from a distance, feeding, drinking, and playing in the water while we remained unobtrusive. During the game drives in the Chobe National Park, we saw three of the Big Five, including lion and elephant young, as well as interesting animal interactions such elephants chasing lions. During the boat rides on the Chobe River, we saw mostly riverine waterscapes and landscapes, elephants on the shore, and birds as well as crocodiles snacking on dung beetles and hunting.

We loved the property’s green initiatives (the lodge was a Botswana certified ecotourism property), such as its new electric vehicles. In addition to being eco-friendly the vehicles were significantly quieter than standard safari vehicles, making it much less likely for us to startle animals and birds when we approached them. That in turn led to more relaxed and natural viewing opportunities than those available on regular safari vehicles, which we especially liked. We would return to the Chobe Game Lodge for the good game viewing we experienced during the three daily water and land safari activities on the Chobe River and in the Chobe National Park, its luxury features, comfort food, including private tables and plated meals, and responsible tourism orientation.

Children The property welcomed children nine years of age and older for private activities.

Class of Accommodation Five Star Lodge

Connectivity There was complimentary WiFi (4 megabytes) throughout the property. There was also cell phone service. The system was down the night off our arrival and early in the morning before we went on our first activity.

General Manager Johan Bruwer

Handicapped Access There were four rooms capable of accommodating handicapped guests.

Length of Stay Two nights

Location The Chobe Game Lodge was on the Chobe River within the 11,700 square kilometer (7,300 square mile) Chobe National Park in Botswana. To reach it from its sister property in Namibia, we transferred by boat, after crossing immigration in Namibia and Botswana, and safari vehicle through the park. There were daily flights to nearby Kasane airport from South Africa and elsewhere in Botswana.

Number of Employees 130, including 16 guides

Owned and Managed Desert & Delta Safaris, which was in turn owned by Chobe Holdings Limited, owned the lodge. As of August 2015, the directors of Chobe Holdings Limited, a company incorporated in Botswana, were P. M. Van Riet-Lowe, chairman, J. M. Gibson, deputy chairman and chief executive officer, J. A. Bescoby, A. D. Chilisa, B. D. Flatt, R. Gerrard , K. Ledimo, J.M. Nganunu-Macharia, D. S. Ter Haar, and A. M. Whitehouse.

Size The three story lodge occupied five hectares within the Chobe National Park. There were four suites, a family room, and 42 standard rooms.

Year Opened and Date of Most Recent Renovation The lodge opened in 1973. Renovations were ongoing and expected to be completed in 2017.

Lobby and Common Areas The decorative style of the property was East African. We arrived at a main building which housed reception, spa room, fitness room, gift shop, bar, dining areas, sitting areas, outdoor swimming pool, and river facing elevated walkway. There was a two story building with guest rooms on either side of the main building. Paved walkways connected the three buildings. The balcony of the fitness room as well as parts of the dining area, some sitting areas in the main building and the elevated walkway had partial or full views of the Chobe River.

Bathroom The modern bathrooms were light filled thanks to a large window. Each had a doorless shower with a glass wall, separate plastic bathtub, adjacent twin sinks with rectangular mirrors, polished concrete floors and walls, and blue and white tiles over part of the floor. Decorative animal plates hung on the wall. The only way to affect the temperature in the bathroom was to open the door and window.

Room We stayed in two neighboring 29 square meter rooms, 207 and 208, in Block 2 Top Level of the lodge. The sunlit rooms, a short walk from the main entrance via a paved walkway, had been renovated. The ground floor rooms had polished concrete floors with floor mats on either side of the beds, curved textured high ceilings, and partially wallpapered walls. Twin beds with large wood headboard were next to each other but not together. Each had a gray blanket and two feather pillows. There was also a duvet folded over at the foot of the bed. Identical night tables in black and white wood (there was one in the bathroom as well) with gray lamps and gray and red lamp shades framed the beds. There was a wood vanity (that could double as a desk) with a stool beneath a large framed rectangular mirror. A wood chest served as a luggage rack.

Opposite the beds there was an armoire with shelf and hanging space as well as a mini refrigerator stocked with water, soft drinks, and beer. On the shelf above it, there was a hot beverage service with two cups and saucers, a teapot and a hot water pitcher and snacks. On arrival there was a welcome snack plate with mini cheeses, nuts, dried fruit and Turkish delight. Large windows and a door led onto an open balcony with a view of the trees and foliage. Although there were two metal mesh chairs and a table on the balcony it was too hot to sit there during the day. In the corner there were double curtains, white sheer curtains and patterned thick curtains, to keep out the sun. There was a remote controlled wall air conditioner (the default temperature was 24 Celsius) and a fan with several speed that hung above the bed. The air conditioner struggled to keep the temperature cool because of the extraordinarily hot weather.

Food After a 4:30 a.m. wake up call we made our way to the main building for tea and coffee at 5 a.m., followed by departure at 5:30 a.m. Breakfast was scheduled at 8:30 a.m. on our return from the game drive and prior to the 10:30 a.m. boating activity. Lunch was available at 12:30 p.m. High tea was at 3 p.m., immediately before the afternoon game drive at 3:30 p.m. Dinner was served beginning at 7:30 p.m., allowing time for a brief respite following our return at 7 p.m. from the drive.

The staff assigned us and other guests private tables. Meals were plated most of the time. In general dishes were well presented and tasty. In the early morning, at breakfast and at tea there was a self service buffet. Prior to our departure in the first game drive in the early morning, there were fresh fruit, two types of muffin (chocolate and poppy seed), scones, hot beverages and juices. I had to walk back to my room to drink water because despite the hot temperatures there was none at the buffet table and the bar was closed.

For breakfast in addition to the buffet choices there were also a la carte options. On the first morning there was a huge selection at the breakfast buffet, including salads, fruit (fresh and in syrup) such as apples, kiwi, pear, guava, grapes, pineapple, strawberries, deli meats, cereals, bread and yogurt. There were also hot chafing dishes of minced meat, chicken livers, sausages (pork and beef), potato cakes, beans, pancakes and made to order eggs. On the second morning, perhaps because we arrived later from our drive, the selection was much smaller.

Amenities There was an electronic safe, mini refrigerator (stocked with water, Coca-Cola, Coca-Cola Light, Fitch & Leeds lemonade, LiquiFruit Breakfast Punch juice and Castle and St. Louis beer), complimentary laundry service, Charlotte Rhys shower caps and toiletries in refillable size containers (conditioning shampoo, shower gel, body lotion, and foam bath), and nougat at turndown. In the hot beverage service, there were four individual servings of Mantell’s Shortbread Finger (a favorite), Nescafe instant coffee and Caturra instant chocolate as well as six varieties of Dilmah teas.

Facilities Spa room, workout room, gift shop, outdoor pool, long elevated deck, restaurant, two bars (one was open during our stay), and boma (enclosed outdoor dining space).

Pool There was a 45 square meter free form outdoor swimming pool next to the lawn of the main building. The water had excellent clarity and the surface was free of insects. It was 9 square meters in size and between 1 and 2.2 meters deep. Lounge chairs, each with a towel, were strewn about near the pool under the partial trade of trees and in the sun. An automated pool vacuum cleaner with a long hose was running when I went swimming following breakfast. I was the sole guest in the pool area at that hour. Moments after I sat down a staff person arrived to offer me a beverage. She returned with my order very quickly. The water was especially refreshing given the heat wave that had struck Botswana during our time there. While I was swimming, I came across two large spiders on the pool rocks. I notified my server. Within 30 minutes staff identified them as poisonous baboon spiders and relocated them away from the pool.

Shop The gift shop sold local curios, branded clothing, Africa books and videos and costume jewelry.

Spa There was a 17.5 square meter massage room on the first floor near reception. I had a Rolling Sands Kalahari 90-minute massage by Monique, scheduled the previous day. The single treatment room spa was spotless and I enjoyed my treatment.

Game Viewing Enforcement of the rules within the Chobe National Park was strict, we were told as we observed park staff frequently stopping vehicles, including ours several times, and questioning drivers and guides. Visitors were permitted a maximum of five minutes at a sighting in order to allow others an opportunity to watch the animals. Although it was not peak season, often popular sightings were crowded with 10 or more vehicles from nearby lodges and self drive vehicles.

During the boat rides and game drives we saw many baby impala, crocodiles snacking on dung beetles, a fish eagle nest, water thick knee parents bravely defending their nest from a crocodile, and a confrontation between lions with cubs and elephants with young, as well as the following:

Animals: chacma baboon, little free-tailed bat, buffalo, bushbuck, elephant, giraffe, hippopotamus, impala, jackal, kudu, lion (twice, including once with three cubs), banded mongoose, vervet monkey, tree squirrel, warthog (with baby), waterbuck, Nile crocodile, monitor lizard, and leopard tortoise.

Birds: arrow-marked babbler, little bee-eater, kori bustard, jacobin cuckoo, African darter, martial eagle, tawny eagle, African fish-eagle, crested francolin, grey go-away-bird, Egyptian goose, spurwinged goose, yellow-billed greenbul, helmted guineafowl, goliath heron, purple heron, squacco heron, red-billed hornbill, African Jacana, brownhooded kingfisher, pied kingfisher, yellow-billed kite, blacksmith lapwing, white-crowned lapwing, African openbill, red-billed oxpecker, paradise fly-catcher, lilac-breasted roller, marsh sandpiper, wolly-necked stork, water thick-knee, and white-backed vulture.

Activities The property offered three safari activities per day, two in the morning and one after tea in the afternoon. They were game drives and boat rides. We went on six activities during our two night stay. The early wake up call and thrice daily activities made for busy days, yet it was hard to give up any of the activities. There were 11 safari vehicles and five boats.

The maximum number of guests per LandRover game viewing vehicle was nine, for Land Cruisers it was 12 and for skimmer boats it was 14. The skimmers were 3 meters by 6 meters large with 40 horsepower stroke outboard engines. There were two electric game viewing vehicles and one electric boat.

If it rained it was up to the guests whether to return or continue. It never rained during our stay. At times, there were many flies. Bush stops were not available on the boat rides. Within the park, if we wanted to stretch our legs or had a nature call only stops in designated rest areas with bathrooms were allowed. The new looking bathroom was clean. It had a flush toilet, although there was no toilet paper.

Our game drives were on Toyota Land Cruiser with four rows and space for 14 passengers. They had built-in metal bars with a pocket in each row. Fortunately, there were only three of us so we had ample space to spread out. Twice we went on game drives in the property’s new electric safari vehicle. One of the drives was the morning of our departure. Because we drove extra fast to catch a last minute sighting of an out of the way lion pride the electricity reserves in the vehicle ran down faster than usual. For the final 30 minutes of the return drive to the lodge our guide had to slow down significantly as we risked having the vehicle stall and leave us stranded. If that happened, the vehicle would have to be towed back to the lodge because there was no way to recharge it outside the lodge outlet. While on a regular day we could have waited for another vehicle to pick us up, that day we had a flight to catch and little tile to spare.

Our guide was Thuso Moeng who had five years of experience as a guide. She had trouble identifying two birds on the first boat ride and had no bird book with her. The following afternoon she identified the birds from the previous day and brought her bird book and binoculars.

Cleanliness Excellent

Date of Last Visit November 2015

Reviewers

Article by Elena del Valle

Photos by Gary Cox

Service Our rooms were serviced twice daily, in the morning and for evening turndown. In general, the service was mixed. At times, the staff were attentive and friendly. Other times, things fell through the cracks and staff appeared indifferent (such as in the gift shop). For example, although there was a cooler full of beer, some sodas and a plastic bottle of white wine, there was not enough water during the blistering hot afternoon boat ride for the three guests onboard. Since no one had asked our beverage preference two out of three of us had nothing to drink for sundowners the first day. There were no napkins on the boat although the snacks included oily fried fish. Likewise, the following day there were pigs in a blanket oily snacks and no napkins.

Leene, our server at lunch the first night and dinner the second night, was friendly, had a ready smile and was well informed and attentive. When asked, she made helpful recommendations. Our server at dinner, Rita, was also well informed and made recommendations on request. In the dining room, Gogan was also helpful. He frequently checked on guests, including us, to ask if everything was to our satisfaction. When they discovered the smoke from guests at another table bothered us they immediately moved them to another table. Reception desk staff were helpful when I approached them with property and spa questions and Monique, the spa therapist, was friendly and helpful.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression One of our fondest memories of Savute Safari Lodge was bathing with elephants – well almost. A bachelor herd frolicked in the waterhole immediately in front of our room while I showered. Thanks to the glass windows and sliding glass door I could see the waterhole and the elephants from the shower. They went on drinking and spraying themselves with water long into the afternoon allowing Gary to observe them while he took his shower a little while later. We continued watching them delightedly from the living area of our room for several hours.

Thanks to the elephants there was a pungent dung odor in our room when we arrived. By the evening it had dissipated and by the following day we were thrilled to have enjoyed the elephant bulls visit. The night before our departure a male lion walked by the waterhole; the staff showcased him with a spotlight, allowing us to watch him strut about. Elephants and lions were the animals Savute was famous for and we had excellent sightings of both from the comfort of our room. During the game drives, we also saw elephants and lions. We especially remember the giant eagle owl family our guide spotted. The infant got stuck on a tree branch and were riveted for a long while watching it trying to disentangle itself away. There were also baby and adult elephant carcasses (apparently from thirst) there and many vultures they attracted. It was amazing to see them so close to our vehicle.

Another memorable experience at Savute was what we fondly call “tea with the elephants.” During an afternoon drive, we stopped for sundowners near a tree seemingly in the middle of nowhere. While we were chatting and enjoying a cup of tea next to the vehicle, a herd of elephants began walking toward and around us. Fred, our experienced guide, had positioned the vehicle close to the tree so they had to walk around us. This excellent placement meant we were in the middle of the walking herd and able to watch them from as close as 10 feet. They paid no attention to our small group and we had a fleeting glimpse of the herd from a close and spontaneous vantage point.

We liked Savute’s advantages like our spacious, modern and comfortable room facing an active waterhole, the tasty meals and snacks prepared by three Batswana cooks, the melodious Botswana songs the Lodge staff sang for us before dinner one night and the wonderful opportunities our waterhole side room offered.

Class Of Accommodation Luxury tented camp

General Managers Lizette and Mark Carlsen

Handicapped Access No. Ground areas had uneven floors; there were steps to enter our suite and physical agility was required to board the game viewing vehicles and bush planes.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location In the Savute Park in the southwest corner of the Chobe National Park of Botswana

Managed Desert & Delta Safaris a 100 percent subsidiary of Chobe Holdings Ltd, managed the Lodge and owned the leases. They operated six properties.

Owned The lease was owned by Chobe Holdings Limited. The current lease expires in 2012 with the option to renew through a tender process.

Size The Savute area covered five hectares, housing 12 twin bedded safari suites for guests and operated by 28 staff plus three managers.

Year Opened The Lodge was opened in 1999. Renovations, we were told, were ongoing.

Lobby And Common Areas The common room was inviting. It was decorated in a contemporary style with cloth and wood armchairs and sofas, a small library with Africa themed books and board games. In one corner there was a bar with a wood counter. A set of stairs on the outside led to a second story loft which was furnished in a similar style and overlooked into the lounge and downstairs room.

Bathroom The en suite bathroom also faced the waterhole. Sliding glass windows and glass and wood doors the length of the bathroom filled it with light and made it feel roomy and open. There was a toilet next to the door, a sink set on a thick Corian counter, a large wood framed mirror and a half open indoor shower. A hungry white cloth laundry basket stood in a corner and white tile with navy blue accents covered the walls.

Room The path to our spacious and comfortable 55 square meter sized room (No. 4) was steps from the dining area. A short walk down a gravel walkway led to stairs and a covered terrace facing a waterhole. Two sets of large sliding glass and screen doors on light wood frames led to the interior of the room, decorated in blue, pale yellow and khaki. One side had twin beds (pulled together to form a larger bed) facing the terrace and waterhole; set against a wood headboard and matching night tables. There was a checkered cloth stool the width of the beds on the end opposite the headboard. A small wood table and an armless chair stood near the bed, facing out toward the next room. On the opposite side of our room, there was a living area that also faced the waterhole. Blue cloth furniture, a love seat and two armchairs, a throw rug, wood, glass and metal lamp and a wood table populated one side while a matching wood vanity with a swivel mirror were on the back side. There was a double armoire with shelves, a lock box (a $10 deposit was required to obtain a key) and hanging space next to the vanity and right before the bathroom. A folding wood table held a coffee and tea service.

There were thick white duvets and sheets on the beds and a mosquito net hung high above them during the day. At night, the staff spread the mosquito net to cover the sleeping area. The roof was thickly thatched and the floor in the room and bathroom was of smooth teak; it was so clean we walked barefoot.

Food We arrived at Savute after our 40-minute bush plane flight hungry. Although lunch had passed, we appreciated the delicious meal of cold lentils, tuna roll, green and carrot salads, and a spinach pasta dish the staff served us. Dinner was a cucumber mousse, yummy kudu stew, boiled potatoes, Greek salad and cheese platter options, and sautéed vegetables. For dessert there was fruit salad and lemon pudding. Early the following morning before our game drive, we had a light breakfast of cereal, yogurt, fruit salad, and cold cuts with muffins or toast. Brunch when we returned was welcome: pork sausage, bacon, pasta and meat dish, grilled tomatoes, coleslaw and carrot, Greek and bean salads, muffins, toast and eggs and omelets made to order. Due to afternoon showers our appetizing dinner was served in the dining room rather than the outer deck. It consisted of a light mushroom and cheese appetizer, oxtail stew, pork chops, noodles, skinless roast potatoes, salad, cheese platter options and a fruit dessert.

Amenities There were cotton bathrobes in the closet. The bathroom had soap, shampoo and room deodorizer. There was filtered water in a pitcher and complimentary bottled water on request. Laundry service was complimentary. All meals including wine, and game viewing snacks and drinks were included.

Facilities Lounge and bar, curio shop, dining room and plunge pool.

Pool A plunge pool was located next to the waterhole. There were two lounge chairs and umbrellas.

Game Our game drives were on 4 x 4 vehicles with top and back covers and open sides. There were usually six or seven guest us per vehicle and three vehicles from the Lodge in the park. Because it was a national park, we encountered many private game viewing vehicles from other nearby lodges and a similar amount of self-drive tourist vehicles who were exploring the area on their own. During the game drives we saw: Impala, kudu, steenbok, tsessebe, wildebeest, lion, black backed jackal, dwarf mongoose, yellow mongoose (excellent sightings), elephant, giraffe, zebra, bush squirrel, marsh terrapin and bateared foxes. Birds: Arrowmarked babbler, little bee-eater, Kori bustard, copperytailed coucal, forktailed drongo, steppe and tawny eagles, rednecked falcon, redbilled and Swainson’s francolins, helmeted guineafowl, redbilled woodhoopoe, redbilled and yellowbilled hornbills, lesser kestrel, yellowbilled kite, grey lourie, giant eagle owl, redbilled oxpecker, blacksmith plover, broadbilled and lillacbreasted rollers, doublebanded and Namaqua sandgrouses, longtailed shrike, glossy starling, marabou stork, hooded, lappetfaced, whitebacked and whiteheaded vultures (excellent sightings), and redbilled buffalo weaver.

Activities Early morning (6:30 a.m. to 10:45 a.m.) drives and late afternoon drives (4:30 p.m. to 7 p.m.), reading (there were books in the library), game viewing from our porch, browsing in the gift shop and poolside lounging.

Curio Shop A small curio shop was located across the hall from the Lodge office and was open after drives and between daytime meals. Items available included books on African wildlife, t-shirts, jewelry, toiletries, and film.

Other Just before our arrival at Savute Safari Lodge, a team from British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC), Discovery Channel and AfriScreen were at the Lodge to film the lions and elephants for an 11 part wildlife television series called “Planet Earth” scheduled to air August 2006. During their filming they used innovative infrared filming equipment, in particular a unique high definition camera capable of filming in low light conditions.

Environmental conservation seemed a priority for Delta & Dessert Safaris: Food waste was composted on site and combustible litter burnt in a controlled area; glass, plastic and cans were stored in animal proof containers and sent to a nearby city for disposal; batteries and waste oil were packaged separately. Wastewater flowed into a series of septic tanks and grey water into specially built soakaways. Septic tanks were emptied by a truck when necessary. A diesel generator was housed in a soundproofed room built with fire resistant materials. It was so quiet we only noticed the difference when our room lights went out in the evening and came on in the morning. Generator exhaust ran through an underground drum to reduce emissions. Gas was used for the kitchen stoves and to heat water. An ongoing training program for company guides focused on identification, interaction of flora and fauna and conservation was led by Botswana ornithologist, guide and photographer Richard Randall. The Lodge’s water supply source was a borehole 70 meters beneath the surface. Savute won the Desert Delta Safaris service excellence trophy for the last two years.

Check-In-Check-Out Arrivals and departures were handled smoothly. Following a cold refresher towel and a welcome drink, a staff member conducted a brief explanation of schedules, procedures and safety measures for our group of new arrivals. Shortly after that, someone showed us to our room and explained a few odds and ends such as the battery operated lights that would continue working after the generator lights went out following dinner.

Cleanliness Very good

Date Of Last Visit November 2005

Reviewers Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Gary Cox

Service Dining room staff were efficient and polite. Although there was twice daily service, cleaning in the morning and turn down service in the afternoon, we never saw the staff since the room was serviced while we were on the game drives. We left several items to be laundered when we left for our morning drive. By the time we returned, it was ready. Theirs was the fastest laundry service we encountered in any of the camps and lodges.

Would You Stay Again? Yes

Overall Impression We were amazed by the quality of the game viewing near the Chobe Safari Lodge. During our first private river boat ride we saw three of the big five, including a teenage leopard on the bank of the river. Our patient, knowledgeable and able private hire driver/guide Flores led us to one impressive viewing after another, including a sitting buffalo less than 20 feet from our boat; an elephant family with young; a large hippo pod of 20 or more adults and pups; two spectacular African eagles; a 70 year old crocodile and more.

From the porch of our comfortable air conditioned room, we saw vervet monkeys (could have touched them when they came to our porch); and civets during the day. With the porch doors open we could hear the hippos and hyenas at night. On our way to lunch we ran into a pair of squeaking adult wart hogs. We appreciated the flexibility the Chobe Safari Lodge offered for game viewing and other activities. Having the option to enjoy them at the time of our choice by booking a private boat or game drive made the experience more pleasurable and relaxing. That made up for the self-service atmosphere and buffet meals. After all, we were in Africa to see the animals. And animals were what Chobe had in abundance.

Activities Coordinator Michelle Muller

Handicapped Access 16 ground floor Safari Rooms are handicapped accessible

Internet Connectivity Internet Room with two computers available to guests for an hourly fee. It was open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. seven days a week. The connection was down when we visited.

Length Of Stay Two nights

Location On banks of Chobe River; 4 kms from the Chobe National Park and 3 kms from Kasane International Airport; 80 kms from Victoria Falls (across the border)

Operations Manager Emile Muller

Owned John and Louis Mynhardt

Size 74 rooms: 32 Safari Rooms (newest and top in the property); 22 River Rooms

Year Opened-Renovated Built in 1959; Safari Rooms built in June 2002; River Rooms updated in 2003.

Lobby And Common Areas: A historical African theme was evident throughout. We saw sculptures, animal charts, vintage photos and other regional decorative items around the common areas.

Bathroom : Open design with sink facing bathtub; separate w.c. (water closet or toilet); and separate shower stall. There was a constant parade of insects of one kind of another, especially in the bathroom area, adding to the realism of our Africa adventure. None of them bit or harmed us.

Room Our new looking and spacious luxury safari second floor room and bathroom area was about 500 square feet in size. Decorated with safari motif, it included individual mosquito nets and wall decorations such as pith helmets and spears (not authentic). The furniture included a television, double bed, desk and chair, and small wooden closet and two shelves for folded items. The back doors led onto an open balcony with some comfortable chairs. The monkeys on the property were quite shameless and it was necessary to leave the doors locked whenever we were not on the balcony to avoid having them in our room.

Food And Restaurants Breakfast (buffet) was served in the waterfront restaurant; lunch (a la carte) and dinner (buffet) were served at the poolside terrace. No room service was available.

We found better selection and hotter food when we arrived early for breakfast and dinner; this was a challenge when we returned from a game drive at 9:45 a.m. and breakfast ended at 10 a.m. The staff graciously held up the meal for our benefit and that of other late arriving guests. Our one lunch experience was disappointing. Though we explained to the waiter we had limited time, it took a long while for the food to arrive; a half an hour after we placed the order the waiter told us one the dish was not available and we could only order the special of the day.

Breakfast included cold and hot sections with cereal, fruits, jams, bread, mushrooms, impala, liver, small pancakes, and made-to-order eggs. Dinner included a selection of local food such as impala, kudu and mopane worm dishes. There were also salads, pasta, chicken, fish, potatoes, sausages, and grilled meats.

Amenities Valet parking, free parking, shoe shine service. The room had an electronic safe and in-room coffee/tea service. The bathroom amenties were generic hotel quality but did include insect repellent, which was recommended so close to the river.

Facilities Bar, restaurant, conference room (used as an exercise room when available), squash court, boat dock, and curio shop.

Pool Plenty of guests cooled down in the pool from the heat of the day. We lost our desire after getting a close look at the murky water and many leaves in the water.

Game Viewing : Elephant, leopard, buffalo, crocodiles, lion, giraffe, hippo, impala, warthog, waterbuck, puku, Egyptian geese, baboons, vervet monkeys, fish eagles, bee eaters,

Activities We loved the private tour options which allowed us the flexibility of stopping to quietly observe and photograph the animals at our leisure. We were fortunate to find some of the best game viewing during our four weeks of safari travel in southern Africa. The private boat excursions were especially fruitful; the early morning fishing outing on a tiny river boat, though off season, afforded us an opportunity to visit another area of the river. Game drives in 4 X 4 vehicles were in the early morning or late afternoon just as the boat rides so we had to choose. Our favorite option was the boat ride which allowed us to see many animals, who unafraid of humans, were seen frequently on the shores of the mighty river. Game driving in the Chobe National Park provided us another perspective though the animals there were more elusive than on the boat rides. We returned dusty and tired from the bumpy ride.

The Lodge offered a number of game viewing and tour options for hotel and self catering/camping guests: Afternoon river cruises (morning one during season); day time game drives three times a day (no evening drives were allowed inside the Chobe National Park); private boat hire available from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.; 2-hour walking safaris (tour lasted 3 hours) at Lesoma Valley near the border with Zimbabwe; bream and tiger fish private fishing excursions (2 to 10 hours); 1.5-hour Namibian village cultural tour only available through two lodges in the area; and day trips to Victoria Falls (Zambia/Zimbabwe); and Botswana’s Okavango Delta including a flight in a Cessna, mokoro (canoe) ride and picnic lunch.

The Health & Beauty Center listed manicures, pedicures, massages, and waxing services offered by a part time South African trained and certified beautician. Scheduling these services required a day’s notice.

Conference Facilities One air conditioned conference room for up to 50 people. Basic audiovisual equipment including an overhead projector, TV and VHS, microphone were available.

Other In spite of a light brown color, tap water at the Chobe Safari Lodge was purified and potable. That meant, we were told, guests could enjoy fruits, salads and ice safely.

Three times a week there were aerobic classes in the conference room when it was available.

Guests at the neighboring camp site and the Chobe Safari Lodge, property of the same owners, shared the Lodge facilities and had access to the activities and game viewing drives and rides.

Collect calls were not possible from the Lodge and AT&T service was not accessible. International direct dial calls were possible from our room.

Check-In-Check-Out Process Ease Excellent

Cleanliness Good

Date Of Last Visit May 2004

Reviewers© 2004 Simon and Baker, Inc.

Article by Elena del Valle

Photographs by Chester Godsy and Joni Johnson-Godsy

Would You Stay Again? Yes