Alain Ducasse - New York

NOTE: We have been informed that this restaurant closed in 2008.

Overall impression :  Dinner at Alain Ducasse’s New York restaurant was well prepared and well served. It was as close to authentic gourmet French food as we have had in the U.S. For those able to appreciate the nuances of an elaborate gourmet meal; and willing to spend the time and resources - dinner could easily exceed $300 per person - to enjoy it, ADNY would be an obvious choice.  

In a city where several seatings a night are the norm, ADNY stood out for its one seating policy. It allowed diners to savor and stretch out the multiple course dinner over several hours. The professional, discreet, and customer oriented staff combined with the delicious food and ambiance provided the setting for a wonderful evening. The intimate ambiance and details like handbag stools, an after dinner sweets and candy trolley, a discreet and knowledgeable wine steward, and a souvenir brioche upon departure can make ADNY ideal for a special occasion or important meeting. 

Location:    At the Essex House Hotel in Central Park South Manhattan

Opened: June 2000

Owned: Laurence Geller of Strategic Hotel Capital

Chef:  Alain Ducasse to define and oversee the kitchen and restaurant

Chef Alain Ducasse

About the chef:  Alain Ducasse received the 2002 GQ “Men of the Year” Best Chef Award; was inducted into the James Beard Foundation’s 2002 “Who’s Who of Food and Beverage in America;” was named Bon Appétit 2001 “Chef of the Year;”  and received the “Finest Chef in the World” award from the American Academy of Hospitality Sciences in March 2003.

Head Chef: Didier Elena was the head chef for our visit. (NOTE: He has returned to France to work on other Alain Ducasse projects. He was replaced by Christian Delouvrier in April of 2004).

About the head chef : Chef Elena pursued his cooking studies at l'Ecole Supérieure de Cuisine à Paris (ESCP). His first cooking experiences were at the Hermitage Hotel in his native Monaco. In France, he worked at well known restaurants Jacques Cagna in Paris and famous Paul Bocuse near Lyon. In Monaco he went to Joël Garrault à la coupole de Monaco and later to Ducasse’s Luis XV.

Pastry chef:    Pierre Gatel supervised by Nicolas Berger

Restaurant managers:  Yanis Stanisière, James Guzenski and Herve Durozard

Wine master:    André Compeyre supervised by Gérard Margeon

Handicapped access:  Yes

Type of food :  “Mediterranean-influenced and contemporary classic cuisine”

Specialties :   Menu changes every month; ranging from three to six-course prix-fixe tasting menus

Size:    Seats 65

Special menus/pricing :  During our visit, options included a $150 for two selections from the regular menu; $165 for three selections from the menu; $185 for the seasonal menu.

Ease of reserving :  Advance reservations advisable

Languages spoken : English and French

Style of décor:  Contemporary with artistic accents including sculptures, photographs, hand woven fabrics, antique furniture and “sculpture paintings.”  Paintings by Arman; sculptures by Jean-Michel Folon and Louis Cane; glassware by Jean-Claude Novaro; photographs by Jean-Louis Bloch-Lainé, Xavier Lambours, Mi Hyun Kim, Michel Séméniako, Lin Delpierre, and Patrick Messina. The China was designed exclusively for ADNY by Chistian Le Page; silverware by Béard and Emmanuel Barge; knives by Patrick Bonetta; uniforms by Georges Feghaly; menu covers and graphic designs by Hervé Rivoalland.

Conference facilities/private meeting rooms:    Two private rooms available. One seated a maximum of 12; another adjacent to the kitchen for up to six diners.

Wine and spirits details :   A broad selection of domestic and imported wines and champagnes, including a number of “finds.” 

Food :  The meal began with fluffy cheese filled pastry amouse bouche pre-appetizers.  The light flavor was complimented by a glass of 1996 Drappier Grand Sendrée rosé champagne.  The warm Alaskan salmon with osetra caviar with a “belle vue” garnish was next. It was accompanied by a glass of light 2000 Cru 22 Sagpond Chardonnay from The Hamptons, New York.  The lightly seared Maine shrimp in a clear consomé was a favorite.  A 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Clos des Pontifes was a sound accompaniment. A well prepared squab (pigeon) with duck foie gras, green asparagus and black olives was the final entrée.  The wine master’s selection for the squab was an evanescent American 2001 Kluge Estate from Albermarle County.  

A Clementine and imperial tangerine sorbet with bitter/sweet chocolate was the dessert for chocolate lovers.  With it came a memorable Slovenian 2001 Tilia Adelajda Vipavska Dolina yellow Muscat.  A candy trolley full of tempting choices including pastries, hard candy, and an apple caramel dessert, was brought over. In it were the lightest, most delicious marshmallows ever.  A post dinner tasting revealed a tasty naturally flavored citrus lollipop. 

Service:   In spite of a nearly full dining room (both private meeting rooms were occupied), a bevy of waiters tended to a diner’s every need. Other than a slight cold shoulder upon arrival and the disappearance of most of the staff at the end of the meal, the service was excellent. 

The staff was knowledgeable, polite, patient, discrete, helpful and yes, très French.  They patiently explained to neighboring guests how dishes were prepared, what the differences between the types of cheeses were, and why they were asked to order dessert at the beginning of the meal (so it could be prepared just right and arrive in perfect condition) among other things. 

The sommelier or wine master was especially helpful and understanding. He selected a wine to accompany each of the dinner courses.  He returned time and again to make sure his selections were appreciated. When they were not, he immediately offered an alternative.  His playful choices were in harmony with the meal: Young, light American wines from New York’s Long Island , Virginia and a dessert wine from Slovenia (a favorite).   

Other:  Fifty-five staff members provided service and meals to ADNY diners. Since its opening four years ago, ADNY has: received The New York Times Four-Star review; the 2003 and 2004 AAA Five Diamond Award; Mobil Guide’s Five-Star Award since 2002; James Beard Foundation’s “Best New Restaurant of 2000” Award;  was named one of Food & Wine’s 2002 “America’s Best Hotel Restaurants;” and one of Condé Nast Traveler’s 2001 “100 Hot Tables.”

Latest visit/date of review:  March 2004

Would you dine there again?    Yes